From the Sector

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

RadiciGroup announced the launch of the first physical and digital nylon traceability project at Techtextil 2024. A gilet made from the yarn manufactured in one of the Group’s European industrial sites, which, thanks to a QR code on the garment, can reveal its origin and display information about its production process.

Product traceability is a key element in guaranteeing transparency along the entire supply chain, as it means each stage of production – from spinning to weaving and from packaging through to retail – can be monitored and recorded. The project, made possible by a partnership with FibreTrace, allows manufactured nylon yarns to be traced both physically and digitally. In fact, RadiciGroup inserts a tracer (an inorganic additive) that is uniquely associated with the yarn and remains identifiable throughout all stages of processing – on both the fabric and the finished garment. Naturally, the tracer does not alter the esthetical, functional and technical performance of the yarns in any way.

In terms of digital traceability, during the production stages a scanner detects the presence of the tracer and can transmit the data relating to provenance onto a dedicated digital platform. Finally, the consumer, via a QR code, can access the digital platform that provides all information concerning the provenance of the product and its journey through the supply chain.
 
“This project is the result of almost two years’ work by our Research & Development team. We’re very proud to bring to the market the first physical and digital nylon traceability solution and we plan to extend this initiative to other fibres produced by the Group,” emphasised Filippo Bona, R&D Manager of RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions.

INDA held an Advocacy Summit in Washington, D.C. in partnership with ISSA’s, The Worldwide Cleaning Industry Association, 2024 Clean Advocacy Summit. Over the course of two days, INDA members took to the nation’s capital to convene, connect, and advocate for issues important to the nonwovens industry, meeting with the staff and elected officials in over a dozen congressional offices.  

A key focus of these congressional meetings was education and support for the passage of the WIPPES Act (H.R.2964 / S.1350), the federal effort to implement consistent national Do Not Flush Labeling standards for non-flushable wipes. They also advocated for the renewal of the Miscellaneous Tariff Bill to provide tariff relief on items without domestic production as well as discussed various trade policy issues.

The advocacy summit portion of the event included panels on Wipes Policy, consumer education, international trade, plastics, and PFAS. Speakers included Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama, Acting Assistant U.S. Trade Representative for Textiles, James Willett, International Economist for the International Trade Administration, Sarah Sapirstein, federal lobbyist for the California Association of Sanitation Agencies, Lara Wyss, President of the Responsible Flushing Alliance, Jason Eberstein of the Plastics Industry Association, and Shawn Swearingen of the American Chemistry Council.

CARBIOS was awarded 1st prize in the "So French So Innovative" Award organized by Business France, the Hong Kong Committee of French Foreign Trade Advisors (CCEF), La French Tech and its partners at InnoEX 2024 (taking place in Hong Kong from 13 to 16 April). The award recognizes French innovation to promote and support French Tech in the Asia-Pacific region. The final awards ceremony was held on the French pavilion in the presence of members of the Hong Kong Government and Christile Drulhe, Consul General of France in Hong Kong.

Emmanuel Ladent, CEO of CARBIOS: "Asia-Pacific is a key market for our PET biorecycling solution, and the 'So French So Innovative' Award is a recognition that supports CARBIOS’ prospection and commercial deployment in the region. CARBIOS' technology is generating a lot of interest, leading to promising discussions and the exploration of commercial agreements to support the sustainability commitments and international operations of current and future partners."

CARBIOS' global presence
In a dynamic global PET market, where the share of recycled PET will increase, CARBIOS' ambition is to become a leading r-PET player by 2035. CARBIOS has extended its international reach to boost its commercial deployment worldwide. Teams in place in key markets are dedicated to identifying business opportunities and establishing commercial partnerships for PET biorecycling technology, with first agreements expected in 2024. To date, CARBIOS is represented in three regions: Europe, North America (including Canada) and Asia (China, Japan, Korea, Singapore, Taiwan, and soon India).

Archroma will introduce its new Super Systems+ concept and highlight product innovations at Techtextil 2024, being held in Frankfurt, Germany from April 23 to 26.

A highlight of Archroma’s participation in Techtextil, Super Systems+ are powerful end-to-end systems that combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. The Super Systems+ suite encompasses wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and cleaner chemistries that eliminate harmful or regulated substances.

For textile partners to the automotive industry, Archroma is introducing DOROSPERS® KHF, a new range of high-lightfast disperse dyes that provide optimum build up on polyester microfiber, including artificial suede for car interiors.

For nonwoven applications in fields such as healthcare, hygiene and filtration, Archroma recommends APPRETAN® FFX6750, a new addition to its range of high-performance zero-formaldehyde acrylic copolymers, and APPRETAN® FFX1540.

APPRETAN® FFX1540 is a new APEO free and formaldehyde free self-crosslinking polymer, medium soft with very low tackiness, and strongly hydrophobic, developed for the chemical bonding of nonwovens and for the coating of technical textiles, where low water absorption and high-water tightness are required, combined with high durability in severe environment.

For workwear and uniforms that protect people under adverse conditions, Archroma solutions include HELIZARIN® ULTRA-FAST, for printing with pigment dispersions and metallic pigments, and the new ALBAFIX® ECO Plus wet fastness improver. Archroma’s PFC-free PHOBOTEX® R-ACE durable water repellent delivers excellent water repellence while preserving fabric quality and ensuring sustainability. Archroma has also expanded the revolutionary AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT range of resource-saving dyes with new colors.

Further solutions for active wear and workwear include the newly launched bio-based PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 durable water repellent product, which is PFAS free, formaldehyde free and crosslinker free, as well NYLOFIXAN® HFS, a new fixing agent for polyamide and blends that is fully compliant with the latest restrictions on bisphenol compounds.

Archroma is also launching ARKOPHOB® NTR-40 at Techtextil 2024. The company’s first crosslinker with an improved sustainability profile, its monomers are partially derived from renewably sourced, plant-based raw materials. Another new innovation is biocide-free OX20, an odor-neutralizing technology launched by Archroma in partnership with SANITIZED AG.

For home textiles, mills and brands can select ARKOFIX® NZW formaldehyde-free* resin for high whiteness and extraordinary product stability, with no yellowing during storage at elevated temperatures, even over a prolonged period of time. For a super-soft handle, the SILIGEN® EH1 is a vegan silicone macro-emulsion softener with 35% plant-based active content.

With the aim to help the denim industry reduce the environmental impact of its wastewater and move towards circularity, Archroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim have renewed their joint commitment to the production of aniline-free denim apparel based on Archroma’s DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30.

Their joint aim is to produce high-quality denim in authentic blue shades without the aniline impurity carried through from the synthesis of standard synthetic indigo. In traditional denim production, this aniline remains bound with the indigo pigment on the fabric; the remaining aniline is discharged during the dyeing and washing process. This can be a problem because aniline is toxic to aquatic life and two-thirds of aniline waste currently ends up in wastewater discharge where it could potentially pollute waterways and the ocean.

Archroma developed DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 to answer this key challenge. A 30% pre-reduced indigo solution, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 makes it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without aniline impurities throughout the process.

Easy to use with automated dosing, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 reduces the water needed for preparation, washing and wastewater treatment compared to indigo grains. It also reduces hazardous chemical consumption while allowing high reproducibility and creating the authentic and iconic deep indigo shades traditionally associated with denim.

G-Star RAW is working towards making 20% of its entire collection from Cradle to Cradle Certified® fabrics by 2025. Its partnership with Archroma and Advance Denim contributes to this goal, since the aniline-free DENISOL® holds a Gold Level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 is also compliant with other eco-standards and the requirements of leading retailers and brands.

Advance Denim, G-Star RAW and Archroma have previously collaborated to launch collections based on Archroma’s EarthColors® technology, which upcycles plant waste from the herbal industry to create sustainable colorways.

The association has launched another initiative to promote upskilling and reskilling in the textiles, clothing, leather and footwear industry: the “TCLF SkillBridge” project will focus on establishing regional skills partnerships.

In the context of the EU TCLF Pact for Skills, EURATEX will work together with CEC  and COTANCE  to support the creation of regional partnerships in the area skills; this new SkillBridge project, supported by the European Commission DG GROW, will specifically help to develop action plans with regional authorities, local TCLF industry and education providers. These action plans should respond to the changing needs of the TCLF industry in the area of education and skills. The project will also offer a mobility scheme for regional stakeholders from the industry and offer support to SMEs, to help them develop reskilling or upskilling initiatives in their company.

The TCLF SkillBridge project complements the MetaSkills and Aequalis projects, which have been launched earlier this year. They all share the same objectives which have been established in the TCLF Pact for Skills, and thus contribute to addressing one of the most critical bottlenecks which is faced by the TCLF industry: the shortage of qualified labour. These 3 projects will, collectively, allow EURATEX and its partners to work with all relevant stakeholders from our sector across the EU and beyond.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, welcomes these initiatives to support the TCLF industries: “Addressing the skills gap, and attracting young people with the right set of skills, is essential to strengthen the European textiles industry. We are grateful to the European Commission to offer the necessary support, and want to reach out especially to the regional authorities, to work together and design a skills strategy that works for its local TCLF industry.”

Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, announces the seventh anniversary of their partnership with the sustainable textile finishing brand FUZE Technologies.

AAG is the first apparel manufacturer to adopt FUZE’s permanent, chemical-free textile finish, and the only company in China able to apply FUZE in a closed-loop system. AAG leverages the platform to provide a range of performance characteristics to customers, including odor control, UV protection, moisture management, and cooling.

The FUZE finish utilizes gold and silver particles permanently bonded to a wide variety of natural and synthetic materials to achieve a range of performance characteristics. AAG customers employing the FUZE finish create apparel for the yoga, active lifestyle, workout, golf, and swimwear markets. 

On March 6, 2024, Rieter received an order for the first batch of Rieter technology amounting to around CHF 62 million from Shanghai Digital Intelligence World Industrial Technology Group Co., Ltd. (DIW). Rieter also signed a strategic partnership with DIW to develop an intelligent yarn manufacturing technology that utilizes digitization and automation to minimize conversion costs.

Rieter and DIW signed a first order in the amount of around CHF 62 million for combers and draw frames that will provide the basis to transform DIW’s spinning mills into state-of-the-art industrial textile operations. DIW, a fast-growing company specializing in intelligent manufacturing and industrial operation services, selected Rieter following a competition in which the company’s machines achieved better stability and higher production than competitors. The strategic partnership of DIW and Rieter is designed to further enhance the overall operational efficiency of DIW’s mills by providing highly efficient machines, automation and digitization technology. This will also minimize conversion cost and consolidate the sustainable growth of both companies, while contributing to the high-quality development of the Chinese textile industry.

The announcement of a new effluent treatment plant (ETP) marks a milestone in Denim Expert's journey towards sustainability. This upcoming facility is a testament to the company's dedication to reducing its ecological footprint and safeguarding local ecosystems through advanced water management techniques.

The new Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) being developed by Denim Expert strives for 100% wastewater recycling. As the ETP rises from concept to reality, Denim Expert embarks on a transition towards its next horizon: aligning with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Wastewater Guidelines Version 2.0.

Denim Expert's proactive approach to sustainability has been recognized on a global scale. The company has been named 'New Champion' by the World Economic Forum and has partnered with organizations such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign program. As one of the first factories to join the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) and in the process of implementing the 3E program, Denim Expert is dedicated to achieving 100% water reuse and full reliance on solar energy, further solidifying its commitment to driving positive environmental change.