From the Sector

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that it has joined ‘The Denim Window’ as its showcase company for color and effect technologies.

The Denim Window is a showroom located in Amsterdam, Netherlands, and dedicated to providing apparel brands with inspiration, sustainability and innovation for their denim collections. Created and curated by Silvia Rancani, a passionate denim consultant with a unique flair for fashion and technology, The Denim Window connects carefully selected companies with brands through exclusive events and showcases at The Denim Window location.

The Denim Window allows its visitors to find in one single place fabric mills, garment makers, chemical suppliers, fiber and trim producers, where designers, product developers, fashion students, denim lovers & emerging talents are invited to review and learn more about the products, aiming to stimulate creativity and innovation through collaborations.

The Denim Window and Archroma will regularly organize workshops to support brands and retailers with systems and inspiration to create denim colors and effects in “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient and enhanced. Because it’s our nature!”.

The company, which made the headlines with innovations such as its aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo or its EarthColors® range of dyes based on non-edible biomass waste from the herbal and agricultural industries, participated to the recent exhibition organized at The Denim Window in Amsterdam on 23 January to celebrate Chinese New Year with the new Denim Window 2020 member companies.

“Amsterdam has developed as one of the world’s denim cities with global meet-ups and events, and now the conferences, workshops and permanent showroom of The Denim Window”, explains Umberto Devita, Business Development Manager for Denim & Casual Wear at Archroma. “The Denim Window, Archroma and the other member companies share the same passion for creativity, innovation and denim with a soul, and that makes us a match made in heaven. We are very excited to have been given this opportunity to collaborate the Denim Window dream team!”

Retailers invest in emotionalisation and digitalisation +++ Top theme: linking online with offline shopping +++ Focus on sustainability +++ Accompanying Stages and Specials received very well

The World’s No.1 Retail Trade Fair, EuroShop 2020, drew to a close on Thursday (20 February 2020) after five successful days in Düsseldorf: 2,300 exhibitors from 57 nations reported of very good leads and concluded business deals. Furthermore, lively follow-up business is expected. 94,000 visitors travelled to the Rhine to gather information on the line-up of products, trends and concepts for retailers and their partners featured in 16 exhibition halls.  

“We are delighted that EuroShop once again successfully proved to be the most relevant platform for the global retail community when it comes to trends, inspirations and networking. Our exhibitors deserve the highest praise for their loyalty. With their innovative power they again proved the major attraction for an entire industry,” said Erhard Wienkamp, Managing Director at Messe Düsseldorf, voicing his great satisfaction with EuroShop 2020 results.

Exhibitors especially applauded the high international attendance at EuroShop. 70% of the EuroShop audience travelled to Düsseldorf from abroad. Large delegations came for example from Brazil, Australia and New Zealand. Trade visitors from a total of 142 countries attended EuroShop 2020.

“This high level of international interest clearly documents the dynamism of the global retail world and the exceptional position EuroShop enjoys as its economic engine,” said Michael Gerling, Chairman of the EuroShop Advisory Board and CEO of the EHI Retail Institute Cologne.

“The success of eCommerce is a real encouragement for retailers: they have understood they have to give their shoppers good reasons beyond the ranges to enter their stores. This competition has taken retail as a whole to the next quality level. Investment is being made in shop fitting so as to create customer journeys,” explains Gerling who adds: “Beyond this, retail digitalisation is booming. It enables retailers to offer their shoppers even more services and link online and offline channels, on the one hand, while simplifying process flows, logistics and lots more, on the other.” At EuroShop 2020 digital transformation was therefore a key focus, also in terms of achieving the highest energy efficiency and sustainability possible.

Exhibitors underlined the high level of expertise among visitors at the event, especially their pronounced decision-making powers, because 70% of the trade fair guests were in international top management. Many of them also used their visit to EuroShop to learn about best practice cases and forward-looking trends in retail at the in total eight Stages. The varied programme of lectures held on the individual Stages on such topics as Retail Technology, Architecture and Store Design or Expo & Event was well attended across the board. Meeting with the same high level of approval were the numerous Specials at EuroShop, including the Start-up Hub, the Designer Village and Premium City.

Numbers speak for themselves here: 96% of trade fair visitors were satisfied with their visit to the trade fair. Just as many confirmed the outstanding position of EuroShop as a trend barometer, networking platform and largest event for the retail sectors.

Due to the current situation associated with the Coronavirus 19.000 visitors less attended this time than at the record event 2017.

The next EuroShop will be held in Düsseldorf from 26 February to 2 March 2023.  

Monforts customer Rajby Textiles is the first company in the world to have finally achieved the Cradle to Cradle (C2C) Platinum Standard for a product. Its Beluga denim fabrics have gained the ultimate sustainability score in all five categories covered by the C2C standard, which is acknowledged as involving the toughest and most thorough testing and assessment it is possible to put a product through.

As such, Beluga denim fabric is based on 100% GOTS certified organic cotton and employs no hazardous chemicals in its production. At the same time, it is both recyclable and biodegradable, with 100% of the energy used in its production offset by green energy and involving a closed loop system with no waste water generated and no material wastage.

The new Beluga denim fabrics, however, represent a new zenith in circular denim production. To meet the active cycling requirement, Rajby has committed to using Beluga denim fabric exclusively in apparel products sold by retailers with take back programmes in place and estimated expected cycling rates for such products

Fashion giant H&M Group and Danish retailer Coop are joining chemical expert NGO ChemSec’s call to action to end the use of harmful PFAS chemicals in products and supply chains.
This commitment comes on the same day as award-winning actor Mark Ruffalo and director Todd Haynes address the EU Parliament to speak about the true story that inspired the duo’s latest film Dark Waters, in which an environmental attorney takes on chemical giant DuPont and exposes decades of PFAS pollution.
ChemSec’s corporate PFAS initiative includes:

• A call on policy makers to regulate PFAS efficiently, without the possibility for manufacturers to simply swap one PFAS chemical for an unregulated “cousin”.
• A call on the chemical industry to put money into innovation and develop safer alternatives to PFAS for all kinds of products.
• A recognition that PFAS are a major health and environmental problem.
• A serious commitment to end all non-essential PFAS uses in products and supply chains.
• A call on all other brands to join this commitment and work towards a phase-out of PFAS in all kinds of consumer products.

The single biggest problem with PFAS is that, with very few exceptions, they are perfectly legal to use. This means that the brands and retailers who want to stop it from being used as ingredients in their products have very limited ways of communicating this in the global supply chain. As long as there is not a restriction in place, suppliers will continue to use these very effective chemicals in manufacturing.  

PFAS, short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is a chemical family consisting of almost 5,000 industrially produced chemicals. In manufacturing, PFAS are favoured for their durability and well-functioning properties; they provide properties such as non-stick, water repellence and anti-grease to many types of products, including cosmetics, food packaging, frying pans, outdoor gear and firefighting foam.
The industrial use of PFAS has been so prevalent in the last decades that today 99% of every human, including foetuses, have measurable levels of PFAS in their bloodstreams.   
What is worrying is that human epidemiological studies have found associations between PFAS exposure and a number of health disorders, including various cancers, lowered birth weights and negative effects on the immune system.

Cepi, the European association representing the paper industry, has announced a new alliance called 4evergreen. The aim of the alliance is to boost the contribution of fibre-based packaging in a circular and sustainable economy that minimises climate and environmental impact. The alliance will increase awareness about the benefits of fibre-based packaging materials, advocate for EU legislation supporting product design for recyclability and call for the development of optimised collection systems and appropriate recycling infrastructures.

The rise of environmental awareness and consumer concerns, as well as the increase of packaging focused regulation, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive, have helped companies to accelerate the development of alternative packaging materials including fibre-based packaging with a view to helping consumers make more climate-friendly choices.

4evergreen was created as a forum to engage and connect industry members from across the fibre-based packaging value chain, from paper and board producers to packaging converters, brand-owners and retailers, technology and material suppliers, waste sorters and collectors.

“The 4evergreen alliance is important because it was born from an initiative of consumer product industry leaders who recognize the huge potential of fibre-based packaging in a circular economy” said Susanne Oste, VP Innovation and Sustainability at Sappi. “Their customers want sustainable packaging and fibre-based products provide the most climate-friendly solution available. Sappi is proud to play a part in this industry alliance. We have been investing heavily for more than 10 years in cutting edge research into real solutions for the problems that confront our customers. A recent success is the launch of the only fully recyclable confectionary wrapper on the market today.”

Swiss textile innovator HeiQ has added a new dimension to air management in the HeiQ Fresh product range – air purifying functionality that will be used in curtains from IKEA to reduce indoor air pollutants such as the Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) acetaldehyde, formaldehyde and nitrogen oxide (NO).

No electricity required, no extra space occupied, the Gunrid curtain from IKEA looks like an ordinary curtain but performs a novel function – it purifies indoor air because it is infused with the latest technology in the HeiQ Fresh range – HeiQ Fresh AIR. Gunrid curtains will be available in IKEA retail stores in 2020.

According to the World Health Organization, over 80% of urban residents are exposed to high levels of air pollution1. The concentration of VOCs indoors is generally higher than outdoors2.. While many VOCs are not considered as harmful to health, such as perfumes and fragrances, some others such as acetaldehyde, formaldehyde, nitrogen oxide (NO) and d-limonene and other semi-volatile polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are attributed as responsible for significant negative impact on health by the World Health Organization (WHO). These VOCs come from outdoor sources as well as indoor sources such as furniture, paints, household cleaning products, sprays or cooking activities, as outlined in the clean air survey 2018, conducted by IKEA. Aiming to improve the lives of people through making everyday textiles more functional, HeiQ innovated a textile treatment that will use home fabrics such as curtains as a medium to purify the indoor air.

Since 2018 the CHT Group has broken new ground in communication with BeSoEFFECTIVE. Complex chemical interrelations are translated into simple and hardly technical words in combination with stylistically clear pictures.

The Best Solutions ”BeSo“ were specifically tailored to the communication with the target group of textile brands and retailers and do therefore not only appeal classic B2B clients but are also visible and comprehensible for end consumers of textile goods. The agency RTS Rieger Team from Leinfelden-Echterdingen that had already supported the new brand identity of the CHT Group in 2017 assisted CHT again in developing and creating the BeSoEFFECTIVE concept. One year after its publication, the communication concept has now achieved great success. BeSoEffective was honoured with the GWA Effie Award 2019 in bronze in Frankfurt am Main on 14th November.

Since 1981 the Effie has been awarded for efficiency in marketing communication by the Gesamtverband Kommunikationsagenturen GWA (general association of communication agencies). It’s not exclusively the convincing look or content of campaigns that is honoured by the jury of experts with the GWA Effie Award but it’s rather the proven success and efficiency of such ideas and campaigns. By using the BeSoEFFECTIVE communication the CHT Group has so far increased the brands’ & retailers’ demand for innovative effects by about 30 %.

with CHT products are put in a nutshell by BeSoEFFECTIVE. The brand promise BeSo (”Best Solution“) is supplemented by an effect name deriving from the corresponding functionality – BeSoCOOL, BeSoFRESH or BeSoSMOOTH. Thus, each effect of the portfolio is given a uniform yet individual branding and a clear structure. The functionality of each effect is supplemented by pronounced and symbolic pictures which visually stress the benefits.

Eric Knehr, Head of Brand & Retail Service of the CHT Group states: “To us its of utmost importance to speak our target group’s language. Therefore, our BeSoEFFECTIVE campaign focuses on a clear communication with unique pictures and a uniform effect branding. Our customers’ positive reactions and this award prove, that our strong concept optimally supports our daily work as well as market and customer demands. However, it also puts the excellent performance of our innovative and sustainable effects into the right light."

At EuroShop 2020 from 16 to 20 February, ECOpark will focus on energy storage solutions, cost reduction and climate protection
In future, the ENERGY STORAGE EUROPE (ESE) trade fair will cooperate with EuroShop, the world’s leading trade fair for retail investment requirements. As part of this cooperation, commercial enterprises will receive information on how they can use storage systems to implement energy saving measures, which in turn help them secure competitive advantages and commit to climate protection. ESE is expanding the user initiative that was started last year and which also comprises the cooperation with ProWein, the world’s leading trade fair for wines and spirits, as well as GNTM, the world’s leading trade fairs for metallurgy and foundry technology. The next ENERGY STORAGE EUROPE will take place in Düsseldorf from 10 to 12 March 2020.

“Our analyses show that many commercial users in retail, the metal industry and viticulture currently don't see storage as an integrated part of their energy systems and thus do not tap potentials for energy efficiency and climate protection,” says Andreas Moerke, Director ESE. “By cooperating with the leading trade fairs in these industries, we can show thousands of companies how energy storage can contribute to climate protection. In the coming months, we will approach the numerous customers of these trade fairs and connect them to energy storage system providers at ESE.”

Lenzing was awarded for the introduction of the blockchain technology for fiber identification as well as its achievements as a leading company and significant economic engine in the region

On November 4, 2019, Lenzing AG won the “Digital Corona” in Gold. The coveted business prize was awarded for the first time in this category. It is awarded to companies that have dynamically advanced the digitization of business processes, products, services and business models in recent years. At the premiere, Lenzing was delighted to receive the first prize for the introduction of the blockchain technology for fiber identification along the textile value chain.

“Consumers increasingly want to understand the ingredients and suppliers of the products they buy, requesting a new level of transparency and traceability. With the introduction of blockchain technology, Lenzing is pursuing the ambitious goal of creating full transparency across the value chain, driving change in an industry where less than five percent of the top 250 apparel brands can track their garments back to the fiber origin”, Stefan Doboczky, CEO of the Lenzing Group, says. Lenzing enables its customers and partners to identify TENCEL ™ branded fibers across each production and distribution step from fiber-to-retail. The technology also allows consumers to verify the garment composition and the underlying textile supply chain at the point of sale, simply by scanning the barcode with a mobile device. As a result, Lenzing also directly supports the business with its very sustainably produced TENCEL™ lyocell fibers.

In the relatively short space of time since the last EuroShop in 2017, a lot has changed in retail. Everywhere you look, technology is transforming the way that consumers interact and transact with brands. At EuroShop 2020, 16 to 20 February in Düsseldorf, the 550 international exhibitors of the experience dimension “Retail Technology” (from the more than 2,300 international EuroShop exhibitors) provide impressive proof of this. In the run-up to EuroShop, we had a look around the international stores to see what is already being offered to customers in terms of high-tech.

Spanish fast-fashion retailer Zara has introduced self-service checkouts in store as well as interactive mirrors equipped with RFID; Nike is using local data at its House of Innovation 000 in New York City to stock shelves and restock them based on what the community wants; and at skincare brand SK-II’s Future X Smart Stores in Tokyo, Shanghai and Singapore, visitors are able to experience next generation skin counselling through a magic scan (an AI-enabled skin analysis that unlocks skin age and personalises product recommendations by sitting in front of a mirror for three minutes). There are even coffee shops using robot baristas to serve drinks, such as Café X in San Francisco and Ratio in Shanghai. And then, of course, there is Amazon Go, where customers can pick up shopping and walk out, with payment made automatically through the app.