From the Sector

The winners of the prestigious Innovation Award for Fibre-Reinforced Plastics of the AVK, the German Federation of Reinforced Plastics, were presented in Salzburg this year. This award always goes to businesses, institutions and their partners for outstanding innovations in composites the three categories Products & Applications, Processes & Methods and Research & Science. Projects are submitted in all three categories and are evaluated by a jury of experts in engineering and science as well as trade journalists, who look at each project in terms of their levels of innovation, implementation and sustainability.

Products & Applications category
First place: “Insulating Coupling Shaft for Rail Vehicles” – Leichtbauzentrum Sachsen GmbH, partner: KWD Kupplungswerk Dresden GmbH

Second place: “Electric Car Battery Housing Components Based on Innovative Continuous Fibre-Reinforced Phenolic Resin Composites” – SGL Carbon

Third place: “High Performance Recycled Carbon Fibre Materials (HiPeR)” – Composites Technology Center GmbH (CTC GmbH), partners: Faserinstitut Bremen e. V, Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V., C.A.R. FiberTec GmbH; partners Japan: Faserinstitut Bremen e.V., Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V., C.A.R. FiberTec GmbH; Partner Japan: CFRI Carbon Fiber Recycle Industry Co., Ltd., IHI Logistics and Machinery Corporation, ICC Kanazawa Institute of Technology

Innovative Processes & Methods category
First place: “Chopped Fibre Direct Processing (CFP)” – KraussMaffei Technologies GmbH, partner: Wirthwein SE

Second place: “CIRC - Complete Inhouse Recycling of Thermoplastic Compounds” – Fraunhofer Institute for Production Engineering and Automation (IPA), partners: Schindler Handhabetechnik GmbH, Vision & Control GmbH

Third place: “CarboScreen – Sensor-Based Monitoring of Carbon-Fibre Production” – CarboScreen GmbH, partner: Institute of Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University

Research & Science category
First place: “Development of a Stereocomplex PLA Blend on a Pilot Plant Scale” – Faserinstitut Bremen e. V.

Second place: “Fibre-Reinforced Salt as a Robust Lost Core Material” – Technical University of Munich, Chair of Carbon Composites, partners: Apppex GmbH, Haas Metallguss GmbH

Third place: “VliesSMC – Recycled Carbon Fibres with a Second Life in the SMC Process” – Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. (STFI), partner: Fraunhofer Institute for Chemical Technology (ICT)

Entries for the next Innovation Award 2024 can be submitted from January 2024 onwards.

Rieter’s cumulative sales in the first nine months of 2023 amounted to CHF 1 092.9 million (2022: CHF 987.4 million), an increase of 11% compared to the prior-year period. In particular, supply bottlenecks eased slightly, which allowed more machines to be delivered than in the same period last year. Sales in the third quarter of 2023
were CHF 334.7 million (Q3 2022: CHF 366.8 million).

The Business Group Machines & Systems generated total sales of CHF 749.6 million in the first nine months of 2023 (+18%). The Business Group Components posted sales of CHF 206.8 million, 11% lower than in the corresponding period of the previous year, while the Business Group After Sales recorded growth of 13% to CHF 136.5 million in the first nine months of 2023.

Order intake in the reporting period was characterized by restrained investment in new machinery in almost all regions except China. Demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts continued to weaken due to the slowdown in spinning mill capacity utilization. Rising interest rates and high energy and raw material prices also had a dampening effect.

In this market environment, the Rieter Group received orders totaling CHF 452.2 million in the first nine months of 2023 (2022: CHF 1 095.8 million). In the third quarter of 2023, orders decreased by 44% year-on-year to CHF 127.2 million (2022: CHF 226.4 million).

Rieter expects the market to have bottomed out in the year 2023 and anticipates a gradual market recovery in the course of the 2024 financial year.

As of September 30, 2023, Rieter has an order backlog of around CHF 900 million (September 30, 2022: CHF 2 000 million). The current order backlog will allow good capacity utilization at the production facilities into the coming year. The cancellation rate in the reporting period was within the usual range, averaging around 5% of the order backlog, with a slight downward trend.

In July 2023, the Group launched the “Next Level” performance program aimed at strengthening sales excellence, sharpening customer focus, improving cost efficiency in production and optimizing fixed cost structures. By taking these measures, Rieter intends to create the basis for providing an even more agile response to the cyclical nature of the machinery business. The objective of the planned initiatives is to ensure the profitable and sustainable development of the group.

The performance program includes provisions for the net reduction of approximately 300 positions in overhead functions across the group, primarily in Germany and Switzerland. The consultation processes initiated with the employee representatives in Ingolstadt (Germany) and Winterthur (Switzerland) were completed in the third quarter of 2023. The majority of these workforce reductions are expected to be implemented by the end of December 2023.

Due to the current market situation, further market- and volume-related adjustments in the range of 400 to 600 positions will be necessary, mainly in production. However, the actual number of positions to be reduced depends on the order intake in the coming months.

Rieter continues to expect that the strategic and operational measures initiated will result in one-off restructuring costs of around CHF 45 to 50 million, which will impact earnings in the 2023 financial year.

Outlook for the full year 2023 confirmed
As announced on July 20, 2023, in view of the economic situation and the ongoing cyclical market weakness, Rieter continues to expect below-average demand for new equipment in the coming months. A revival is not anticipated until the end of 2023 at the earliest. Likewise, Rieter believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will not recover until towards the end of 2023.

For the full year 2023, Rieter expects an EBIT margin of around 5 to 7% (including positive special effects of less than 2%) and sales at the previous year’s level of around CHF 1.5 billion.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the A+A 2023—Safety, Security and Health at Work International Trade Fair in Düsseldorf, Germany (24th-27th October 2023). On display will be the company's latest safety-related technology through its new SPG®-R pile glove knitting machine and the prototype SFG®-R next-generation glove knitting machine. Each of these machines drew attention at SHIMA SEIKI's booth at the International Textile Machinery (ITMA 2023) Exhibition in Milan.

SHIMA SEIKI's original SPG®, developed in 1979 as the world’s first automatic glove knitting machine to produce seamless pile-knitted gloves, is now reborn as a next-generation model. Pile gloves feature special traits that include cushioning, shock-reduction and thermal insulation and cold protection, making them popular especially in the field of industrial safety. Now, SPG® is redesigned from the ground up and re-introduced as the SPG®-R. The new SPG®-R features a new moveable sinker system with selectable loop presser function. Combined with a new belt-driven carriage it allows SPG® to provide efficient and reliable production of fashionable, high-quality pile gloves. Shown in 7 gauge at A+A, SPG®-R surpasses the previous generation with pioneering technology, improved capability and reliable productivity.

SHIMA SEIKI's original product on which the company was founded was the fully automated seamless glove knitting machine. While the original model evolved to become the current SFG® series, SFG®-R exhibited at A+A is its spiritual successor. With a new sinker system, a belt-driven 2-cam carriage and auto yarn carriers SFG®-R is a completely new machine for knitting gloves that conform better to the shape of the hand for improved fit. Furthermore its greater design potential offers users the opportunity to break out of the work glove market and into the fashion market. SFG®-R is shown as a prototype next-generation model in 12 gauge at A+A.

Also demonstrated will be SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz® design software. The importance of design software is made even more significant by the new patterning capabilities of SPG®-R and SFG®-R. Both machines now feature increased design potential that allow each of their products—pile gloves and work gloves, respectively—to expand their market into fashion. APEXFiz® is available for developing these designs. Furthermore virtual sampling on APEXFiz® is especially effective in streamlining the production process. Ultra-realistic simulation capability allows the use of virtual samples for evaluating design variations without producing actual samples for each variation, thereby minimizing the time, cost and resources normally required with sample-making, supporting smart, speedy and sustainable production.

Archroma and Shima Seiki have expanded their partnership to bring the industry’s largest library of colors for cotton and polyester to the SDS®-ONE APEX design, planning and virtual sampling system and APEXFiz® (hereafter SDS®-ONE APEX series) subscription software.

Now offering a total of 5,760 color references, SDS-ONE APEX series has added all 1,440 colors for polyester from The Color Atlas by Archroma® to its color library of 4,320 Color Atlas colors for cotton poplin. The new polyester collection ranges from neutral earth tones to vibrant jewel tones and on-trend fluorescent colors, with shades suitable for sportswear, fashion, home furnishings, automotive textiles and more.

The extended color library in SDS®-ONE APEX series will help designers and manufacturers to visualize and evaluate their design choices on realistic fabric simulations and then put them into production with dyes and finishes that meet their desired sustainability profile. The Shima Seiki system also offers a smooth transition to machine programming for quick and accurate production, reduced waste and accelerated time to market.

Each of the 5,760 Color Atlas color references in the SDS®-ONE APEX series design software is available as a physical color standard that includes precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, as well as access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

“Polyester remains the most popular choice across many textile segments where high performance is a must. Users of Shima Seiki’s advanced SDS®-ONE APEX series platform will now be able to select from the industry’s largest library of colors for both cotton and polyester and, more importantly, trust that their choice can be reliably executed,” Chris Hipps, Head of Strategic Business Development, Archroma Color Management, said.

“Our colors are formulated with dyes that comply with international eco-standards and work with Archroma’s groundbreaking coloration systems, like FAST SPORT,” he continued.

Toray Industries, Inc. will expand the French subsidiary Toray Carbon Fibers Europe S.A.’s production facilities for regular tow medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers (up to 24,000 filaments). This move will increase annual capacity at the Abidos plant (South-West France) from 5,000 metric tons annually, to 6,000 metric tons. Production is expected to start in 2025.

Demand for medium- and high-modulus carbon fibers is rising in Europe, driven by a push to move towards a net-zero society. This growth is mainly due to higher build rates for commercial aircrafts (secondary structures and engines), as well as centrifuge for energy production, satellites, and high-end automobiles. By boosting carbon fiber production capacity in Europe, Toray is responding to its customers’ demand for medium and high-modulus carbon fibers, as befits the market leader.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023, organized by Finnish Textile & Fashion and EURATEX, highlights the discourse on sustainable practices within the textile and fashion industry. This two-day event, scheduled for 26-27 October at the Little Finlandia event center in Helsinki, will include a day of curated company visits.

Finland’s leading textile and fashion forum will showcase the industry's pioneering companies and their pursuit of a sustainable and resilient future. With insightful discussions, inspiring speakers, and thrilling business cases, the event drives transformation and sets new benchmarks for the textile and fashion sector.

The Textile & Fashion Forum Helsinki 2023 will focus on critical industry themes. The transformation of the textile and fashion industry relies on three key pillars: the creation of different circular business models matching growth with sustainability, a green and digital transition where information technology is necessary to deliver sustainability, and scaling the business, as how start-ups can make a leap and big companies can evolve their growth strategies. These three themes will be discussed in depth during the event.

The speaker lineup, drawn from Finland, Europe and beyond, demonstrates the expertise connecting on this platform. Noteworthy figures include Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, President & CEO of Marimekko; Kai Mykkänen, Minister of Climate and the Environment of Finland; Marcus Hartmann, Head of Public Affairs & Sustainability at H&M; Liljana K. Forssten, Range Strategist at IKEA; and Virginijus Sinkevičius, European Commissioner (on video).

• Confirmation of industrial and commercial targets with the construction in France of the world's first plant using Carbios' PET biorecycling technology: progress in line with the target of commissioning the unit in 2025
• Exclusive global partnership with Novozymes, guaranteeing the supply of enzymes on an industrial scale for Carbios' PET biorecycling plant and all future licensed plants
• Consolidation of the partnership with Indorama Ventures, which plans to raise around €110 million for this first plant
• 54 million in aid from the French government via France 2030 and the Grand-Est Region to finance construction of the plant and accelerate R&D work
• Strengthening of the Carbios Group's financial structure: successful capital increase of €141 million with French and international investors
• Carbios Group cash position of €78 million at 30 June 2023, not including the net proceeds of the €141 million capital increase received in the second half of 2023

Lectra, a leader in technology solutions for the fashion, automotive and furniture industries, will be listed in the CAC Mid 60 and SBF 120 indices of Euronext as of market close on September 15, 2023. This listing will enhance the visibility of the group with potential shareholders and customers in France and internationally.

Founded 50 years ago, the Lectra Group offers software, connected cutting equipment, data analysis solutions and associated services to players in the fashion, automotive and furniture industries to accelerate their digital transformation and transition to Industry 4.0. In 2017, the company initiated its Lectra 4.0 strategy, with the ambition of becoming an indispensable player in Industry 4.0 worldwide by 2030.

For Daniel Harari, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Lectra: “Lectra's entry into the CAC Mid 60 and SBF 120 indices is an outstanding recognition of the successful actions we have taken over the past few years to ensure the profitable growth of our company and the success of our customers. We have changed dimension, notably with the acquisition of our historical competitor, Gerber Technology in June 2021. We have expanded our customer base, launched new cloud-based offerings which have enabled us to significantly increase the volume of SaaS software in our revenues, and offered new Customer Success Management services to support our customers. We have also made Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) one of the pillars of our strategy.”

The mission of Accelerating Circularity is to create new supply chains and business models to turn textile waste into mainstream raw materials. Accelerating Circularity has created a working group, the Alliance of Textile Chemical Recyclers (ACTR), to meet and address the textile industry with a common voice to facilitate accurate information on textile chemical recycling.

“We formed this collective to move chemical recycling technology forward, share common definitions, and address policies in a collaborative way to maximize the elimination of textile waste to landfills and incineration” explained Karla Magruder, Founder and President of Accelerating Circularity. “Chemical recycling technology has many benefits, including quality more similar to virgin fiber and the ability to recycle multiple times.”

ACTR plans to provide the industry with information on how textile chemical recycling can:

• offer solutions for diverting textile waste to landfill
• enable textile to textile recycling versus incineration/landfill
• provide sustainably sourced/circular materials
• support brand/retailers/producers in achieving their CO2 reduction targets
• provide long term price stability and consistent supply of raw materials versus virgin

Members of the Alliance include founding members Eastman, Lenzing, and The LYCRA Company, as well as key innovators Circ®, Sappi, Renewcell, Infinited fiber, Worn Again Technologies, Gr3n, CuRe Technology, and OnceMore® from Sodra.

As a first step, the ACTR (Alliance of Chemical Textile Recycling) is introducing a dictionary of common terms developed to educate the industry on the chemical recycling of textiles.

As a leading company in the collecting, sorting, reselling and recycling of post-consumer textile waste, TEXAID has enabled the recycling of post-consumer textile waste into new textiles and clothing. Working together with brands and retailers, TEXAID and our partners are continuing to take action to shift from a linear to a circular system.

Since 2022, TEXAID has partnered with Triumph International, operating their in-store collection program, “Together We Grow”, for 160 stores across Austria, Denmark, France, Germany, the Netherlands and Switzerland. Given the success of the program, starting April 2023, in-store take back has been expanded to an additional 108 stores across Belgium, Czech Republic, Hungary, Luxembourg, Poland, Portugal, Sweden and Spain. Customers bring in their worn garments and TEXAID manages the collected clothing in alignment with the EU waste hierarchy, sending each item to its next most sustainable lifecycle. TEXAID is pleased to be partnering with Triumph International to offer in-store take back, at scale, across Europe. For every 5 kg collected, Triumph plants a tree in partnership with Treedom.

To move away from the linear system and enable products to be made out of post-consumer textile waste, TEXAID continues to expand its offering for in-store collection programs throughout Europe and the USA.