From the Sector

With the next generation of soft and stretchable electronics, reproducible and stretchable conductive inks are playing an increasingly important role in areas such as smart textiles, medical textiles or wearables. Saralon produces a range of stretchable conductive inks including Saral StretchSilver 500 for e-textile applications.

While electronic applications integrated into textiles gain popularity, printed stretchable conductive inks emerge as a transformative alternative for the complicated approach of weaving conductive yarns and fibres.

Just like choosing the right fabric and additives is vital for smart textile development, selecting the right conductive ink matters too. There are challenges to consider, such as conductivity, ink penetration into the fabric, changes in physical properties most importantly stretchability, printing process controllability, and reproducibility. That's why research and analysis are essential when deciding on the best conductive ink for a project.

Together with the Saxon Textile Research Institute e.V. (STFI) Saralon conducted some performance tests benchmarking our Saral StretchSilver Ink against some competitor product.

Results:
Conductivity:
Saral StretchSilver 500 consistently demonstrated superior conductivity, regardless of line width.

Fluctuations at lower widths:
Both inks exhibited fluctuations at narrower printed lines, but the Alternative Ink displayed significantly higher variations.

Reproducibility Insights:
Saral StretchSilver 500 maintained stable resistance at 2mm and beyond, while the Alternative Ink noticeably struggled.

Elongation behaviour:
Saral StretchSilver 500 harmoniously coexists with the textile. Its application has minimal impact on the fabric's stretching properties, ensuring stability. The Alternative Ink, on the other hand, leads to significant changes in textile’s elongation properties. With this ink, stretching demands considerably higher forces.

Stratasys Ltd., a company in polymer 3D printing solutions, announced their financial results for the first quarter 2024.

First Quarter 2024 Financial Results Compared to First Quarter 2023:

• Revenue of $144.1 million compared to $149.4 million.
• GAAP gross margin of 44.4%, compared to 43.8%.
• Non-GAAP gross margin of 48.6%, compared to 47.3%.
• GAAP operating loss of $24.5 million, compared to an operating loss of $16.8 million.
• Non-GAAP operating loss of $1.2 million, compared to non-GAAP operating income of $1.5 million.
• GAAP net loss of $26.0 million, or $0.37 per diluted share, compared to a net loss of $22.2 million, or $0.33 per diluted share.
• Non-GAAP net loss of $1.7 million, or $0.02 per diluted share, compared to non-GAAP net income of $1.1 million, or $0.02 per diluted share.
• Adjusted EBITDA of $4.1 million, compared to $7.0 million.
• Cash generated by operating activities of $7.3 million, compared to cash used by operating activities of $17.9 million in the year-ago quarter.

2024 Financial Outlook:
Based on current market conditions and assuming that the impacts of global inflationary pressures, relatively high interest rates and supply chain costs do not impede economic activity further, the Company is reiterating its outlook for 2024 as follows:

• Full-year revenue of $630 million to $645 million.
• Compare to 2023 revenue of approximately $616 million excluding divestments and annualizing Covestro.
• Full-year non-GAAP gross margins of 49.0% to 49.5%, improving sequentially throughout the year.
• Full-year operating expenses in the range of $292 million to $297 million.
• Full-year non-GAAP operating margins in a range of 2.5% to 3.5%.
• GAAP net loss of $88 million to $72 million, or ($1.24) to ($1.01) per diluted share.
• Includes one-time extraordinary costs associated with Stratasys’ strategic alternatives process.
• Non-GAAP net income of $9 million to $14 million, or $0.12 to $0.19 per diluted share.
• Adjusted EBITDA of $40 million to $45 million.
• Capital expenditures of $20 million to $25 million.
• Positive cash flow from operating activities.

Non-GAAP earnings guidance excludes $29 million to $31 million of share-based compensation expense, $26 million to $28 million of projected amortization of intangible assets, and reorganization and other expenses of $29 million to $35 million. Non-GAAP guidance includes tax adjustments of $2 million to $3 million on the above non-GAAP items.

Pincroft, a textile dyeing, printing and finishing company, bolstered its efforts to achieve efficient and sustainable textile operations by adopting Baldwin Technology’s innovative TexCoat™ G4 system.
 
The U.K-based company offers a range of technical finishes, including flame-retardant treatments, anti-mosquito solutions and durable water repellents. As a provider of finishing solutions for workwear and military fabrics, Pincroft holds itself to high quality expectations and compliance standards, ensuring that its products deliver superior performance in challenging environments.

Since installing Baldwin’s TexCoat G4 system in September 2022, Pincroft has reduced finishing chemistry usage by 20%, with no waste or color changeovers and no need for periodic pad renewals. It has also reduced water consumption by 50% as a result of increased chemistry concentration enabled by precision spray technology. Additionally, with TexCoat G4, productivity has increased by 50%, due to lower wet pick up, allowing for a significantly higher line speed.
 
By reducing time needed in the stenter, the TexCoat G4 system uses just 10% of the energy required by the traditional pad finishing process.

Stratasys Ltd. announced the launch of its Direct-to-Garment (D2G) solution for the J850 TechStyle™ printer, the newest offering in the Stratasys 3DFashion™ direct-to-textile printing technology. The first example of its application is an Urban Tattoo denim collection which will be revealed at the Texprocess exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany on April 23.

The D2G solution is ideal for customization and personalization by enabling the application of full color multi-material 3D print directly on fully assembled garments of various fabric types including denim, cotton, polyester, and linen. It allows fashion brands to facilitate personalized and bespoke designs for customers, including the ability to tailor 3D prints according to individual preferences, sizes, and styles.  

Available in two sizes, the D2G tray kits facilitate the personalization of garments ranging from jeans to jackets, enabling designers and manufacturers to adopt more sustainable practices by reducing material waste. The seamless workflow delivers ease of calibration and compatibility with various garment sizes, streamlining the production process and fostering the creation of unique, personalized apparel.

Demonstrating this innovation, the Urban Tattoo collection showcases the potential and the ease of direct-to-garment 3D printing. Working with noted designers Karim Rashid, Travis Fitch, Zlatko Yanakiev at Meshroom along with Foraeva Studio, this collection shows the transformation of ordinary garments into pieces of wearable art, imbuing them with personal identity and meaning.

Like body tattoos, Urban Tattoos promote a deeper emotional connection, encouraging the upcycling of existing garments and contributing to a more sustainable fashion ecosystem. This aligns with Stratasys’ strategy for Mindful Manufacturing™. Stratasys has been able to create a new collection that will appeal to multiple brands that reach across diverse socio-economic backgrounds.

Kornit Digital LTD. will display its digital fabric and integrated workflow portfolio at Texprocess 2024, being held April 23-26.

Kornit Digital will feature a view into the end-to-end, fabric manufacturing ecosystem – allowing for production of any fabric and any design for any purpose. The centerpiece is Kornit Presto MAX, transforming the digital world of fabric printing with an ability to print on any fabric type – from cotton and polyester to denim and leather. Built on the promise of sustainability, Presto MAX reduces both water usage and waste. The system is the world’s first offering to print white ink on colored fabrics alongside neon to extend the color gamut by as much as 30 percent. Kornit’s new Vivido inks additionally offers dark black pigments.

Additionally featured is the KornitX Global Fulfillment Network, a solution designed to optimize operational efficiency, eliminate supply chain bottlenecks, and ensure products are readily available to meet customer demands. The solution connects brands, retailers, and digital platforms to a high-quality production network – providing rapid replenishment and trend adaptability for direct-to-fabric production. Pixel-to-parcel monitoring and control fully integrates the end-to-end production workflow for a seamless experience. The solution based on Kornit’s MAX technology enables brands to maximize margins, boost profitability, and pave the way for a sustainable future in the digital on-demand fashion and textile industry.

Beyond technology demonstrations, Kornit will additionally highlight how MAX technology serves as a vibrant partner platform to drive possibilities across the entire fabric printing and processing chain. Key partners highlighted include:

• Colortex: Providing fashionable, custom textiles for the footwear industry.
• ZwissTex: Offering quality, sustainable textile solutions for the automotive and clothing sectors.
• Print Logistic: Delivering a full range of services - from printing to worldwide drop-shipping for smooth e-commerce integration.
• CGS: Driving global performance through business applications, enterprise learning and outsourcing services.
• FastSwen: Leveraging Moving Cavity Technology (MCT) to transform textile handling and production efficiency.
• Premier Digital Textiles: Serving as the prime supplier of textiles with extensive warehousing across the US and UK.
• Greentex: Providing highly sustainable, innovative, and customizable fabrics for advanced textile printing.

Cavitec, part of Santex Rimar Group, presents the redesigned Caviscreen at Techtextil Frankfurt. Caviscreen features latest technology for breathable laminates.

Caviscreen was developed as a hotmelt coating and laminating unit for breathable sportswear, rainwear and protective clothing – with and without applying a membrane. The redesigned machine shows a brand-new method to supply adhesive more evenly and precisely. Using PUR adhesive (polyurethane reactive adhesive) goes with additional benefits like strong bonding capabilities and versatility.

Caviscreen’s hotmelt screen printing is a special system for high-end application garments. With this Caviscreen system, a PUR adhesive is transferred onto the substrate through a rotary screen, similar to the well-established textile printing method. The adhesives are fed from the drum melter through a heated hose to the traversing adhesive distribution system inside the rotary screen, just behind the doctor blade.

The adhesive is pressed by the doctor blade through the screen holes and transferred to the substrate. Different dot pattern (mesh or irregularly) and different screen thicknesses allow different coating weight and adhesive coverages.

The traversing adhesive dispenser is used to distribute the adhesive automatically over the set working width that – an additional technical benefit – can be set without any mechanical changes.

Cavitec’s screen coating system achieves high bonding strength while using less adhesive than other coating processes, because of applying the coating on the surface of the substrate and like this, the adhesive has less tendency to penetrate the substrate.

Bonding strength, softness of the fabric and the breathability are defined by the coating weight and the coverage. The rotary screen allows users to regulate and adapt the coverage respectively the coating weight. Cavitec offers a large selection of screens that are essential to fulfil the fabric requirements. A further advantage is the ease and efficiency of switching from one screen to another by simply unlocking the bayonet fitting. The IR-heater cover opens pneumatically and the lightweight screen can be easily removed by hand. Unlike with other methods, there's no need to deal with hot oil or any other heated liquid that requires cooling down.

The Caviscreen technology supports manufacturers by reducing costs with screens priced at a mere fraction, just 10%, of common gravure roller prices.

Archroma has developed a new wet-fastness improver that helps brands and mills produce durable clothing, towels, linens and other textile products with long-lasting colors without compromising on quality or introducing hazardous chemicals.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is a next-generation fixing agent that delivers a strong wet-fastness for all reactive dyes on cotton and other cellulosic fibers and polyester-cotton blends. It will not change the shade of the dyed fabric or negatively impact light-fastness. The product also avoids production challenges – such as foaming, acid hydrolysis and migration problems during drying – to promote efficiency and quality output.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is suitable for jet applications, and for other dyeing and washing equipment with vigorous liquor circulation, and can also be applied by exhaustion, by padding or from the last bath of the soaping process after dyeing or printing.

Like ALBAFIX® ECO, the latest addition to the ALBAFIX® family has a positive influence on chlorine-fastness. When applied with double fixing, it achieves the same high performance on polyamide and PA/Elastane fabrics, as it does on cellulosic fibers. This makes it ideal for the production of swimwear, as well as sportswear and outdoor clothing.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS complies with global eco-standards and initiatives, including Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), bluesign® and the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Roadmap.

Haelixa, the trailblazer of physical traceability solutions, has partnered with Trudel Silk, a market leader for sustainable organic and recycled silk products. This collaboration brings traceability and transparency to silk production.

Silk is one of the finest and smoothest fabrics; the better the quality of the silk, the more luxurious it feels to the touch. To create the best quality silk, the conditions for mulberry cultivation must be up to the highest standards. A healthy micro-ecosystem in the fields translates to top-grade silk cocoon quality. At Trudel, this is the environment they have created for the vertical integration of their business. Trudel aims to succeed at every stage of the process, which can only be accomplished through the active involvement and visible cooperation of all market players. These players include farmers, reeling mills, twisting/spinning mills, weaving mills, dyeing and printing mills, and brands. They are involved in every step, from the cultivation of mulberry trees to the production of silk fabrics.

Haelixa and Trudel have collaborated to improve silk’s robust and consistent traceability. As the demand for validation of the silk value chain increases, they have partnered with groups from Italy and Asia to develop a unique solution that uses DNA markers to trace the entire supply chain of silk production. This innovative approach ensures each silk product’s ethical sourcing.

The silk fibers used in their spun silk yarns are marked with a specific DNA per farm set selected by Trudel. Throughout the supply chain, samples of yarn, fabrics, and finished products undergo testing to verify the presence of original silk fibers. Based on the reporting, the brand can trace the finished accessories or garments to Trudel.

Vietnam is the subject of increasing investment across an array of industries, with its textile sector going from strength to strength in a short space of time. To give key players from across the textile spectrum an opportunity to make their presence felt in this market, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Taking place at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), the new fair will cover three main product sectors, namely apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; home textiles; as well as technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology.

In line with the industry’s anticipation, the country was identified as the ideal location for ASEAN’s new comprehensive textile platform for several key reasons. Vietnam’s pro-business policies, strategic geographical location, abundant labour force, and favourable trade agreements have contributed to its rise as a global textile manufacturing hub. Agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP); the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF); and 15 free trade agreements (FTAs) covering over 60 countries and regions, will further enable participants from across the value chain to conduct cross-border business after connecting at next year’s show. In addition, several key travel initiatives that serve international players have been implemented, including the country’s APEC Business Travel Card programme^[1], availability of e-visas to all nationalities, and visa-free travel for select countries^[2].  

Exhibitors from multiple textile sub-sectors converge in February
In Vietnam’s home textile segment, rising urbanisation, emerging young consumers, and higher disposable incomes are interrelated factors driving growth^[3]. Globally, three of the top trends include recycling; utilising green fibres; and the increasing use of technical fabrics for enhanced comfort and health. At the fair, confirmed home textiles exhibitors include Hanyang Eco Tex, Hohmann GmbH, Phuong Nam Feather, and SIGMA, set to showcase their most up-to-date products, covering bedding, upholstery fabrics, curtain, and sun protection.
 
Utilised for automobiles, civil aviation, construction, health care, and more, Vietnam's exports of technical textiles reached USD 676.6 million for the first nine months of 2022, up 17.1% compared to the same period in 2021^[4]. This in turn bodes well for the country’s import prospects of quality machinery and equipment. Hoping to cater to domestic demand at VIATT 2024, international suppliers in this category include Julai, SIGMA, and Skwentex.

Meanwhile, apparel-related products make up the lion’s share of the country’s textile exports – according to Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS), in 2022 these numbered USD 29.1 billion. From Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi, numerous international fashion brands have a manufacturing presence, including Adidas, H&M, Lacoste, Lululemon, Nike, The North Face, Uniqlo, and many more. At next year’s fair, exhibitors such as Avery Dennison, Lenzing, Stylem Takisada-Osaka, and Texwinca, will aim to draw the attention of apparel brands and a wide range of other domestic and international buyers.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

^[1] ‘Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to Vietnam with an APEC Business Travel Card’, April 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/apec-business-travel-card-vietnam.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[2] ‘Vietnam Introduces E-Visa for All Nationalities from August 15, 2023’, August 2023, Vietnam Briefing, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/vietnam-introduces-e-visa-for-all-nationalities-from-august-15-2023.html/ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[3] ‘Vietnam Home Textile Market Size & Share Analysis’, 2023, Mordor Intelligence, https://shorturl.at/wQVWZ (Retrieved: November 2023)
^[4] ‘Vietnam's technical fabric exports continue to be positive’, October 2022, Web Portal of Supporting Industry of Vietnam, https://shorturl.at/lmnvX (Retrieved: November 2023)

The Fashion for Good Museum has opened its doors for the new pop-up exhibition News From The Future. As part of a new Educational Programme and Toolkit - developed by the Fashion for Good Museum team - a selection of up-and-coming talents composed of Dutch fashion students and emerging designers have been asked to respond to the question: “what could the future of fashion look like?” Their answers are revealed in the exhibition in the form of garments, videos, installations and more. This is a future-forward exhibition where you can explore different fashion perspectives beyond the climate crisis, giving hope and, perhaps, a reality check.

Post-consumer waste, overconsumption and the pollution of our waterways are just some of the industry issues we are currently facing. Mirrored against rising temperatures and increasingly unstable weather conditions, the global shift as a result of climate change is inevitable. What does this mean for our future generations? How do we move forward from here? This raises one central question: What does the future of fashion look like?

News From The Future, the new exhibition at the Fashion for Good Museum, invited Dutch students and new creative voices to reflect on these questions. The emphasis on emerging talent is a common thread throughout the exhibition’s and the look and feel is designed by upcoming graphic designer Sara Biatchinyi.

Participating artists and designers include students from art and fashion schools across the Netherlands from the University of the Arts Utrecht, Zadkine MBO, MBO Rijnland and Saxion College. The students’ work was chosen after they participated in the educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton”. This programme was developed by the Fashion for Good Museum’s Curator and Education Coordinator Alyxandra Westwood and Education and Fashion consultant in sustainability Yophi Ignacia founder of The Future Mode, in collaboration with the aforementioned schools.

To further enhance these narratives, and to facilitate and promote a space for connection between emerging talent, the Museum invited Current Obsession Magazine - an interdisciplinary jewellery platform and magazine - to co-curate an installation and reflect on the future of jewellery. Over the course of the exhibition the Fashion for Good Museum will come to life hosting an art auction, panel discussion and a weekly updated installation, showcasing emerging talent. All of these elements together will collectively address the sustainable and regenerative design practices in both the Fashion and Jewellery industries.

Designer Kevin Paraiso (Paris/Benin) showcases a creative workshop in the museum, featuring looks from his Cosmic Summer .Dolkrey collection, which was presented during Spring/Summer ‘23 of Paris Fashion Week. “Cosmic Summer reflects on our desire to bring vibrant colours and a sense of uplift to the fashion of today and tomorrow. A cosmic news from the future.” A hopeful collection, with future-forward elements seamlessly integrated from the use of deadstock, circular materials and an on-demand tailoring business model with inhouse printing - presents a positive outlook.

Launching “Classroom of the Future: The Stories Behind Cotton”
The educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton'' has been developed into an open source toolkit for MBO and HBO education. The toolkit is live and available to download from the Fashion for Good Museum website as of the 30th of November 2023.

It consists of a set of six lessons all exploring the various aspects of cotton with specific emphasis on people and planet. The toolkit brings together different forms of interactive tools for the classroom: videos, podcasts,  lesson plans and workshops. The content shows the perspective of local and international makers and innovators working to create a better and fairer fashion system.
The programme was part of and based on the previous museum exhibition Knowing Cotton Otherwise (2022-’23) and invited students to reflect on the  exhibition themes - water, transparency, agriculture, climate, processing, origin, labour/forced labour and end-of-use - through their own perspective. The educational methodology and goals within the programme were developed to level the field between MBO and HBO students, reflecting a more realistic image of what it's like working in the professional field. During the programme students worked together equally, challenging the segregated Dutch education system and aiming for new results.

News From The Future is open to the public at the Fashion for Good Museum at Rokin 102 in Amsterdam.