From the Sector

HeiQ announces the extended application of HeiQ Allergen Tech to bring the benefits of this biobased textile technology to the interior upholstered furniture market.

HeiQ Allergen Tech has already been successfully adopted in bedding items like pillows, bed sheets, and mattresses. And now Culp Upholstery Fabrics, a division of Culp, Inc. and a leading suppliers of upholstery fabric, will offer this technology to manufacturers of upholstered furniture. This collaboration will see Culp introduce HeiQ Allergen Tech enhanced interior upholstery fabrics to markets such as the Americas, among others, with Culp as the exclusive supplier.

HeiQ Allergen Tech addresses the problem of allergens from dust mite matter and pet allergens in textiles with the help of active probiotics, making it ideal for applications in upholstered furniture, such as sofas, armchairs, and other upholstered furniture products, which are among the household items that are rarely or never washed. This naturally derived technology works in the background with its continuous cleaning action to reduce allergens on the treated fabric and thereby create a more comfortable living environment.
The technology of HeiQ Allergen Tech is 100% biobased and long-lasting. Probiotics, also known as “good bacteria”, with benefits for humans and animals, colonize the treated fabrics, leaving no space for harmful dust mite matter or pet allergens to settle in while creating the ideal conditions for better and more comfortable living spaces.

The first treated fabrics as a result of the collaboration are being revealed at the Interwoven trade show on May 7-8 in High Point, NC, USA, where HeiQ and Culp teams provide more details to all visitors.

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

Stratasys Ltd. announced the launch of its Direct-to-Garment (D2G) solution for the J850 TechStyle™ printer, the newest offering in the Stratasys 3DFashion™ direct-to-textile printing technology. The first example of its application is an Urban Tattoo denim collection which will be revealed at the Texprocess exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany on April 23.

The D2G solution is ideal for customization and personalization by enabling the application of full color multi-material 3D print directly on fully assembled garments of various fabric types including denim, cotton, polyester, and linen. It allows fashion brands to facilitate personalized and bespoke designs for customers, including the ability to tailor 3D prints according to individual preferences, sizes, and styles.  

Available in two sizes, the D2G tray kits facilitate the personalization of garments ranging from jeans to jackets, enabling designers and manufacturers to adopt more sustainable practices by reducing material waste. The seamless workflow delivers ease of calibration and compatibility with various garment sizes, streamlining the production process and fostering the creation of unique, personalized apparel.

Demonstrating this innovation, the Urban Tattoo collection showcases the potential and the ease of direct-to-garment 3D printing. Working with noted designers Karim Rashid, Travis Fitch, Zlatko Yanakiev at Meshroom along with Foraeva Studio, this collection shows the transformation of ordinary garments into pieces of wearable art, imbuing them with personal identity and meaning.

Like body tattoos, Urban Tattoos promote a deeper emotional connection, encouraging the upcycling of existing garments and contributing to a more sustainable fashion ecosystem. This aligns with Stratasys’ strategy for Mindful Manufacturing™. Stratasys has been able to create a new collection that will appeal to multiple brands that reach across diverse socio-economic backgrounds.

The John Lewis Partnership announces the appointment of Jason Tarry as its seventh Chairman following Sharon White’s decision to step down at the end of her term.

Jason brings over 33 years of experience at Tesco where he was most recently the UK & Ireland CEO, a role he held for six years. His experience spans grocery, general merchandise and fashion in senior commercial, operational and general management positions, having joined the Tesco graduate programme in 1990.

In addition to delivering market leading grocery performance in the UK, he led the expansion of F&F Clothing across Europe as Group CEO. Jason is expected to take up the role in September, at which point Sharon will step down and support the transition as required.

Rita Clifton, Deputy Chairman and Chair of the Nomination Committee, said: “The Board extends its huge thanks to Sharon for successfully leading the Partnership through one of the most testing periods in its history - first Covid and then the cost of living crisis. She has faced into the toughest decisions and overseen the Partnership's financial recovery; we are in good financial health with a return to profit, and have a strong balance sheet with record investment planned this year. Sharon has also helped ensure that employee ownership of the Partnership is secure, is demonstrably focused on its purpose as a force for good and with an open and inclusive culture.

“As the Partnership moves into the next phase of its modernisation focused on our core retail business as well future growth, we are confident that Jason will provide the kind of inspirational leadership, a proven track record in multi-channel, multi-category retail success and a strong identification with Partnership values that we are seeking in this role. Jason has impressed everyone throughout the interview process with his warmth, his belief in the Partnership’s ideals and democratic principles and his appreciation for our unique and special brands.”

The DITF is leading the joint project "DACCUS-Pre*". The basic idea of the project is to develop a new building material that stores carbon in the long term and removes more CO₂ from the atmosphere than is emitted during its production.       

In collaboration with the company TechnoCarbon Technologies, the project is now well advanced - a first demonstrator in the form of a house wall element has been realized. It consists of three materials: Natural stone, carbon fibers and biochar. Each component contributes in a different way to the negative CO₂ balance of the material:

Two slabs of natural stone form the exposed walls of the wall element. The mechanical processing of the material, i.e. sawing in stone cutting machines, produces significant quantities of stone dust. This is very reactive due to its large specific surface area. Silicate weathering of the rock dust permanently binds a large amount of CO₂ from the atmosphere.

Carbon fibers in the form of technical fabrics reinforce the side walls of the wall elements. They absorb tensile forces and are intended to stabilize the building material in the same way as reinforcing steel in concrete. The carbon fibers used are bio-based, produced from biomass. Lignin-based carbon fibers, which have long been technically optimized at DITF Denkendorf, are particularly suitable for this application: They are inexpensive due to low raw material costs and have a high carbon yield. In addition, unlike reinforcing steel, they are not susceptible to oxidation and therefore last much longer. Although carbon fibers are more energy-intensive to produce than steel, as used in reinforced concrete, only a small amount is needed for use in building materials. As a result, the energy and CO₂ balance is much better than for reinforced concrete. By using solar heat and biomass to produce the carbon fibers and the weathering of the stone dust, the CO₂ balance of the new building material is actually negative, making it possible to construct CO₂-negative buildings.

The third component of the new building material is biochar. This is used as a filler between the two rock slabs. The char acts as an effective insulating material. It is also a permanent source of CO₂ storage, which plays a significant role in the CO₂ balance of the entire wall element.

From a technical point of view, the already realized demonstrator, a wall element for structural engineering, is well developed. The natural stone used is a gabbro from India, which has a high-quality appearance and is suitable for high loads. This has been proven in load tests.  Bio-based carbon fibers serve as the top layer of the stone slabs. The biochar from Convoris GmbH is characterized by particularly good thermal insulation values.

The CO₂ balance of a house wall made of the new material has been calculated and compared with that of conventional reinforced concrete. This results in a difference in the CO₂ balance of 157 CO₂ equivalents per square meter of house wall. A significant saving!

* (Methods for removing atmospheric carbon dioxide (Carbon Dioxide Removal) by Direct Air Carbon Capture, Utilization and Sustainable Storage after Use (DACCUS).

KARL MAYER has already produced a wide range of electrically conductive warp-knitted items for a wide variety of applications in the TEXTILE-CIRCUIT division of its TEXTILE MAKERSPACE, including a sensor shirt, a gesture control system and a conductive charging station. In order to drive the topic of wearables forward, the textile machine manufacturer has signed a cooperation agreement with the Grabher Group and delivered an MJ 52/1-S to the specialist for high-tech textiles in Lustenau. Managing Director Günter Grabher officially inaugurated the key machine for project work in the smart textiles sector in May 2023.

The machine is involved in various research projects, but is also available for new projects and tasks. The smart textiles competence team at KARL MAYER and Grabher is looking forward to supporting the ideas and work of interested parties also outside the research network with its know-how and the possibilities of the MJ 52/1-S.

The MJ 52/1 S is also an extremely flexible project machine. The 138″ model in gauge E 28 produces a wide range of warp-knitted fabrics and incorporates conductive material directly into the textile surface - exactly where it is needed and with the structure that is required. The basis for the tailor-made fiber placement is KARL MAYER's string bar technology. The system for controlling the pattern guide bars ensures a fast, established textile production process and a high degree of pattern freedom.

Archroma has developed a new wet-fastness improver that helps brands and mills produce durable clothing, towels, linens and other textile products with long-lasting colors without compromising on quality or introducing hazardous chemicals.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is a next-generation fixing agent that delivers a strong wet-fastness for all reactive dyes on cotton and other cellulosic fibers and polyester-cotton blends. It will not change the shade of the dyed fabric or negatively impact light-fastness. The product also avoids production challenges – such as foaming, acid hydrolysis and migration problems during drying – to promote efficiency and quality output.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is suitable for jet applications, and for other dyeing and washing equipment with vigorous liquor circulation, and can also be applied by exhaustion, by padding or from the last bath of the soaping process after dyeing or printing.

Like ALBAFIX® ECO, the latest addition to the ALBAFIX® family has a positive influence on chlorine-fastness. When applied with double fixing, it achieves the same high performance on polyamide and PA/Elastane fabrics, as it does on cellulosic fibers. This makes it ideal for the production of swimwear, as well as sportswear and outdoor clothing.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS complies with global eco-standards and initiatives, including Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), bluesign® and the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Roadmap.

Archroma Textile Effects expands the digital textile design and production system (CAD/CAM) Pointcarre with its entire portfolio of 5,760 colors.

Pointcarre Textile Software enables fashion, home furnishing and technical textiles designers to create accurate digital samples, streamline the fabric weaving, knitting and printing processes, and produce realistic presentations of their collections.

Incorporating the Archroma color portfolio into this workflow will allow designers to bring their ideas to life with greater speed and accuracy. They will not only have access to a vast searchable library of Archroma colors, but they will also be better able to produce the exact color they need at the factory.

All of the Archroma color references can be formulated with dyes that meet leading international eco-standards and the brand customer’s desired sustainability profile.

To support customers to optimize the potential of the new color library, Pointcarre is offering new interactive e-learning modules on its Academy training platform, as well as assistance in several languages.

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

The testing service provider and research partner Hohenstein is joining the Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn. There are already points of contact with AI applications in some interdisciplinary research projects. In addition, there is the cooperation with the Munich-based start-up Sizekick and its AI-based technology for size recommendations, which aims to reduce size-related returns in online fashion retail.

"We expect the connection to the IPAI AI network to provide us with valuable impulses to remain fit for the future," explains Hohenstein CEO Dr. Timo Hammer, "This unique platform brings together a wide variety of players with their experience and knowledge. New ideas, projects and even products can be generated with great dynamism in the network as an intelligent response to future requirements. Because one thing is clear - artificial intelligence is THE key technology of the future".

The Innovation Park for Artificial Intelligence (IPAI) in Heilbronn (www.ip.ai) sees itself as an innovation platform for applied AI and a German lighthouse project with international appeal. The center is intended to map the entire AI value chain, from the qualification of specialists to the application of ethically responsible AI. The aim is to use the AI ecosystem to bring together companies, start-ups, research institutions, scientists, and public institutions and to secure Germany's digital independence and competitiveness in a key future technology.