From the Sector

The planned acquisition of the “Barmag” Division of OC Oerlikon will create the leading system provider worldwide for natural and man-made fibers. Rieter is confident it will receive all regulatory approvals to complete the acquisition in the fourth quarter of 2025. The Rieter Group is therefore adjusting its Group structure as of January 1, 2026, to take this acquisition into account and to be able to provide an even more agile response to market challenges. 

The Machines & Systems and After Sales Divisions will be merged. Alexander Özbahadir will take over the new “Short-Staple Fiber” Division, which will be responsible for the short-staple fiber business, effective January 1, 2026. This will create synergies in sales and service activities and increase customer centricity through a geographical focus. 

Roger Albrecht will now be responsible for the “Components and Technology” Division. His mandate will be to develop pioneering technology solutions, drive innovation and achieve growth in the key components business. With this organizational change, Rieter will further expand its technology leadership and intensify its development activities between Rieter and the component companies Accotex, Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, Suessen, SSM and Temco. 

Serge Entleitner has decided to step down from the Group Executive Committee, effective December 31, 2025, and will support the company on various projects until his retirement in 2027. 

Upon successful closing of the Barmag acquisition, the “Man-Made Fiber” Division will be integrated into the Rieter Group. Georg Stausberg will continue to lead the division and report to Thomas Oetterli, CEO of Rieter. He will also take a seat on the Group Executive Committee. 

As of January 1, 2026, the Rieter Group Executive Board will comprise the following members: 

• Thomas Oetterli, Chief Executive Officer 
• Oliver Streuli, Chief Financial Officer 
• Emmanuelle Gmür, Chief Human Resources Officer 
• Alexander Özbahadir, Head of the “Short-Staple Fiber” Division 
• Georg Stausberg (after closing), Head of the “Man-Made Fiber” Division 
• Roger Albrecht, Head of the “Components and Technology” Division 

Rieter is responding to the persistently weak market situation with further cost-cutting measures by adjusting production capacities, simplifying supply chains, and streamlining overhead functions. The estimated one-off costs of around CHF 30 to 35 million will result in annual savings of just under CHF 30 million.

Barmag, a subsidiary of the Swiss Oerlikon Group, will commission three HMLS yarn systems with a total of 30 stations at renowned technical yarn manufacturers in China over the next three months.

China expands HMLS capacities
Among them are two HMLS producers who had previously purchased from competitors. "They were convinced by our process technology, which guarantees the economic production of HMLS yarns of the very best quality," says Sales Director Oliver Lemke, who, together with his colleagues on site, provides support to customers in the field of technical yarns. The sophisticated material obtains its special properties during the spinning process. High speeds in the production process guarantee a stable arrangement of the molecules within the polymer that forms the actual thread. The internal structure of the molecular chain, in turn, is decisive for the dimensional stability of the final yarn.

Growing demand for HMLS yarns
The industry expects demand for HMLS yarns to increase in the coming years. This is mainly due to the trend toward lighter tires. Whereas high-modulus polyester yarn (HMLS) was previously used mainly in high-speed tires, its properties now also allow the tire carcass of small vans to be converted from steel cord to polyester. HMLS yarn is extremely tear-resistant, yet highly elastic and temperature- and dimensionally stable.

Another factor is the steadily increasing number of vehicle registrations worldwide. In China in particular, the production of local car brands has increased rapidly in recent years, which explains the expansion of capacity in the country.

An Army combat uniform, Burberry trench coat and Hawaiian shirt are among pieces featured in “Fit for Duty: Form and Function in Military Dress,” a multisite Cornell Fashion + Textile Collection (CF+TC) exhibition opening on Veterans Day.
Worn in Iraq by a Cornell alumnus, the combat uniform set a template for contemporary camouflage and tactical design, according to exhibition notes. The khaki trench coat, originally designed for British officers, evolved from battlefield necessity into a fashion staple. The Hawaiian shirt reflects the early influence of Japanese textiles – designs and motifs forced to shift after the attack on Pearl Harbor.

“These garments reveal how the theaters of war and fashion intersect,” said curator Catherine Kueffer Blumenkamp, MPS ’15, associate director of the CF+TC and a lecturer in the College of Human Ecology’s Department of Human Centered Design. “Both realms stage systems of fit – physical, functional and symbolic – that continue to influence how we design, wear and interpret dress.”

Drawing primarily on items donated to Cornell and its Reserve Officers’ Training Corps by alumni or their families, as well as some created by Cornell designers, “Fit for Duty” traces the interplay of form and function across conflict and couture – while highlighting Cornell’s land-grant legacy of military service. Displayed in the CF+TC’s public gallery on the Human Ecology Building’s terrace level and in the Wortham Military Museum in Barton Hall, the project also revives a collaboration that seeks to better preserve and make more accessible historical military garments with Cornell ties.

Roughly a decade ago, Blumenkamp, then a master’s student, was part of a team that helped archive materials in the Wortham museum located on the third floor of Army ROTC’s corner of Barton Hall. But items continued to be donated, and even archival boxes stored in a museum closet remained vulnerable to damage in the more than century-old facility.

Seeking help, Lt. Col. Derek Fitzpatrick, professor of military science and executive director of Army ROTC, reached out to Corey Earle ’07, visiting lecturer in American studies in the College of Arts and Sciences, who connected him with Blumenkamp. Blumenkamp conceived of the exhibition and sees opportunities for a CF+TC student research assistant to help maintain Wortham’s archival records and collaborate on future exhibits. The faculty members also are exploring opportunities and funding to relocate the museum, which requires climbing several flights of stairs – a challenge for guests with limited mobility, sometimes including visiting veteran alumni.

“It’s awesome to see it all come together,” Fitzpatrick said of the exhibition and plans for a sustained partnership. “Cadets choose Cornell because of our history, because of our legacy, because they want to be part of something bigger than themselves. When they see the respect we have for that legacy, it reinforces that this is something they want to be a part of.”

Research assistants Maya Abrol ’26, Tabitha Mueller-Schrader ’26, Erin Yoon ’26, doctoral student Sephra Lamothe and master’s student Sarah Orsinger helped comb through items stored at Wortham to build the exhibition. Displays there will include uniforms worn by members of the Cornell Cadet Corps, a precursor to ROTC, at a time when all male students were required to complete two years of military training.

“It’s been super-interesting to find all these different historical connections to contemporary fashion,” Abrol said. “As I started diving into the research and being with the clothes, you can see it pretty much everywhere.”

From trench coats to Doc Martens boots to the Vietnam-era M65 field jacket – worn by Robert de Niro’s Travis Bickle in “Taxi Driver” – Orsinger said military influence on fashion is ubiquitous.

“It may not be in the forefront of your mind going through your wardrobe, but many people walk around in full military-inspired outfits every day,” Orsinger said. “It’s interesting that those trends have continued.”

Beyond fashion, the influence extended to fit: Anthropometric data gathered through military conscription became the basis for the modern U.S. system of standardized sizing, the exhibition explains.

The CF+TC portion of the “Fit for Duty” is thematically divided into three sections: Land, Sea and Air. Pieces include the “pinks and greens” worn by Army officers in the 1940s, which Blumenkamp said balanced authority and refinement through precise tailoring and contrasting tones, and a Cadet Nurse Corps ensemble that signaled professionalism and service through tailoring. M65 and bomber jackets, meanwhile, became postwar emblems of rebellion and resilience.

“The word ‘fit’ carries layered meanings: to measure and clothe the body; to be equipped or prepared; to conform or belong; to be suited to purpose,” Blumenkamp said. “Each interpretation resonates in military dress, where garments must fit the individual, the regiment and the ideals they represent.”

Blumenkamp will host a curator’s talk Nov. 11 at 4:30 p.m. in the Rachel Hope Doran ’19 and CF+TC display vitrines, the first in a series of events associated with the exhibition. On Nov. 14 at 3 p.m. in Martha Van Renssalaer Hall, U.S. Army Brig. Gen. Adam Cobb, deputy commanding general-operations for the 10th Mountain Division at Fort Drum, will join student veterans and members of Cornell’s ROTC Tri-Service Brigade for a discussion on “Service, Scholarship and Design.” And on Nov. 14 at 6 p.m., a screening of the 1953 film “The Wild One” starring Marlon Brando – part of a motorcycle gang clad in surplus World War II combat boots, bomber jackets, aviator goggles and mechanic caps – kicks off a film series in partnership with Cornell Cinema.

“Fit for Duty” runs until March 2026. The exhibition received support from the College of Human Ecology, Cornell Council for the Arts, John Foote ’74 and Kristen Rupert ’74; and object contributions from Eric Bluman ’91, Raquel Coren ’25 and Michael Parkinson ’75.

Trevira CS, a leading brand of inherently flame-retardant textiles, is set to showcase its high-performance fabric solutions for the cruise ship industry at the CSI (Cruise Ship Interiors) Show in Hamburg on December 3rd and 4th. The booth's motto, "All aboard with Trevira CS," highlights the brand's commitment to safety and luxury in marine interiors. The exhibit will feature an array of some 27 IMO-tested Trevira CS fabrics specifically designed for cruise ship applications. 
 
Safety and Luxury Meet Rigorous Marine Standards 
As cruises worldwide continue to grow in popularity, the demand for luxurious and inviting textile designs which comply with uncompromising safety performance is increasing. Inherently flame retardant and easy to care for, Trevira CS fabrics comply with the strict FTP Code 2010 Resolution MSC.307(88), Annex 1, part 5, 7, 8, and 9 for various applications, such as wallcoverings, drapes and decorative fabrics, sunscreens, upholstery fabrics and bedding textiles.
 
The cruise shipping industry requires high-quality fabrics for both indoor and demanding outdoor environments. For exterior use, Trevira CS textiles offer superior performance in terms of resistance to light and weather. This is, for example, achieved through flame-retardant and UV stabilised polyester, available as staple fiber and filament yarn. Such modified filament yarns are available in nearly 30 different spun dyed colours. 
 
Recognizing the cruise industry's increasing focus on sustainability, Trevira CS also offers recycled options under the trademark Trevira CS eco. These fabrics contain at least 50% recycled materials (pre-consumer or post-consumer). All fibers and yarns used for the Trevira CS eco trademark are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified. 

“Our trademark testing makes sure that the Trevira CS articles are made of our original Trevira® flame retardant polyester and that the textiles thereof meet the fire safety requirements of the brand and are fit to pass those of the cruise industry too. Needless to say, that also the requirements of other industries like hospitality, healthcare, rail and aviation are respected and can be met by Trevira CS® as well,” says Petra Krücken, Indorama Ventures Fibers Global Trademark Service Manager. 

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, Inc., a leader in spider silk technology*, announced that it is fulfilling an order for spider silk from a globally recognized performance sports apparel brand as part of a confidential pilot development program.
 
This project will incorporate the company’s  next-generation recombinant spider silk into a cutting-edge application targeted at the highest tier of performance apparel. While specific project details remain protected, Kraig Labs can confirm that the program is designed for one of the most demanding and innovation-focused segments of the athletic market.
 
This customer's market leadership, engineering sophistication, and reputation for excellence in performance apparel made them the ideal choice for this initial pilot engagement. Their market leadership and commitment to innovation is the reason Kraig Labs selected to fulfill this request from among the numerous recent inbound inquiries it received.
 
The Company is now processing a portion of its recombinant spider silk inventory into yarns tailored to the precise specifications provided by the customer's development team. Delivery of these specialized materials is expected before the end of the first quarter.
 
As a focused pilot program, this order calls for a small, purpose-built quantity of spider silk designed explicitly for this highly specialized application. Even at this limited scale, the project provides a powerful platform for demonstrating the performance capabilities and commercial potential of the Company's specialized spider silk technology within a premier performance environment.
 
"This collaboration underscores the growing recognition of our material's potential in high-value, high-performance applications," said Kim Thompson, Kraig Labs’ Founder and CEO. "We are excited to support this project and a customer whose commitment to innovation aligns with our own. We look forward to showcasing what our spider silk can deliver at the elite level of apparel design and performance."

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), to protect health and the environment, recommends that the European Commission adds four substances, including melamine, to the REACH Authorisation List. Once added to the list, companies must apply for authorisation if they wish to continue using the substances.

The recommendation includes the following substances:

• Barium diboron tetraoxide;
• S-(tricyclo[5.2.1.0 2,6]deca-3-en-8(or 9)-yl) O-(isopropyl or isobutyl or 2-ethylhexyl) O-(isopropyl or isobutyl or 2-ethylhexyl) phosphorodithioate;
• Diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide; and
• Melamine.

ECHA has selected these substances from the Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHC) for this recommendation because, following the agreed approach, they are of the highest priority. 

The inclusion of melamine in the draft recommendation was comprehensively commented on by sectors using the substance during the 2024 consultation period but the decision to include it was made after careful consideration of all the issues.

Ofelia Bercaru, Director for Prioritisation and Integration, said: 
“When assessing the consequences of including a substance in the Authorisation List, it is important to consider the scope of the legal requirement. In most of its applications, melamine appears to be used as an intermediate, which does not require authorisation under REACH.
“However, applications for authorisation for the remaining uses may potentially create a significant workload for companies and authorities. ECHA is aware of the challenges and considered that balancing the risks posed by melamine with its continued use, requires a policy decision by the Commission and EU Member States.”

Background
ECHA has the legal obligation to regularly recommend substances from the Candidate List for the Commission to include in the Authorisation List. Before sending its recommendation to the Commission , ECHA considers comments received during a three-month consultation and the opinion of the Member State Committee.

The Commission will decide which substances are included in the Authorisation List and what conditions apply to each substance. If a substance is included in the Authorisation List, it can only be placed on the EEA market or used after a given date, if an authorisation is granted for a specific use.

The authorisation process aims to enhance the substitution of substances of very high concern when technically and economically viable alternatives are available. Until this is achieved, the goal is to ensure proper control of risks for human health and the environment.