Textination Newsline

• Quality suppliers satisfied buyers with a wide range of sourcing needs
• Fringe programme brought insights to fairgoers

The 2018 Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles concluded last week with positive business outcomes generated. Being held during the peak sourcing season for home textiles finished products in China, the three-day show attracted 12% more buyers than last year. A total of 20,870 visitors (2017: 18,596) from 68 countries and regions came to source a wide range of finished products including bedding, towelling and table & kitchen linen. 232 exhibitors from 11 countries and regions (2017: 204, eight countries and regions) including well-known international brands such as Cotton Council International and Asahi Kasei as well as domestic big names like Ruyi, Sunvim and Yueda participated and praised the show as one of the most effective trade platforms at this time of the year for home textiles industry.

“Thanks to the revitalised market conditions in China and the increased number of buyers, our exhibitors have had a successful show. Not only did they receive onsite orders and make contact with new clients, but they also valued Intertextile Shanghai as a channel to build up their brand so as to expand their business network in China. Apart from the stronger Chinese market, another reason for the buyer increase this year was the large growth of the four concurrent fairs. This resulted in a more diverse buyer profile with increased demand from different textile industry sectors,” Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd said.

Exhibitor opinions:

Mr Wang Si Qi, Representative of Fibers Sales Dept, Asahi Kasei Advance (Shanghai) Co., Ltd, Japan
“We came to the fair to gain exposure and to promote our brand. Since our products are rare in the market and are a perfect substitution for traditional materials, most of the buyers that visited our booth were interested. We succeeded in promoting our brand and letting more industry players know about it. We are really satisfied with the visitor number. People from different sectors with different products in different price ranges are all here. It does help increase our reputation in the industry.”

Ms Allisa Lau, Senior Manager, Chain Supply, Chain & Consumer Marketing, Cotton Council International, USA
“We are happy with the visitor number this year as we made contacts with a lot of manufacturers. Most of them are our target users. The fair has always been helpful for our Council as we can connect with existing clients and explore potential new customers at the same time.”

Mr Trevor Beuth, Managing Director, The Australian Alpaca Bedding Company Pty Ltd, Australia
“We exhibit in Intertextile Shanghai because I believe that it is the premier show in Asia at this time of the year, and it has a wide global reach too. We hope to establish our brand and reputation here at the fair and in China. Our products received very strong interest from Chinese buyers. Overall, we had a very busy show and we are satisfied. We have worked with some major Chinese companies and they came to see us again this edition, but nearly all of the visitors that have come to our booth this time are new to us.”
 
Mr Tetsuo Tosaki, Manager, Tamurakoma & Co., Ltd, Japan
“The reason we come here is that it’s the largest show in Asia at this time of the year, and the Intertextile brand is very famous in Japan. We met almost 100 customers every show day, including manufacturers, brand traders and wholesalers. This show helps us to know our customers better and expand our business in China. The Chinese market is developing rapidly in recent years, so attending this show is a good start for us and the result is beyond my expectation.”
 
Mr Sunwei, Marketing Manager, Shanghai Yueda Xiangyun Home Textile Co., Ltd, China
“Among our visitors, 80% are our existing clients who placed orders directly and the remaining ones are new clients who are interested to be our franchisees. It is surprising that we have received such a huge amount of orders in just two show days. Nearly 90% of our existing clients we met at the show placed orders, and we’ve met more than 10 potential franchisees. This is really a fruitful show as it helps us to connect with old customers and establish new business.”

Mr Gao Qi, District Manager, Sunvim Co., Ltd, China
“This edition we showcased towelling and bedding products especially designed for the 2018 spring season. Intertextile Shanghai is one of the most important platforms for us to launch new products for the year. On the one hand, many suppliers and brand buyers are looking for new items during this peak sourcing season. On the other hand, many quality buyers and decision makers are invited to the show. The visitor flow is high so we can both enhance our brand popularity and receive orders after the show.”

Quality suppliers satisfied buyers with a wide range of sourcing needs. While exhibitors were delighted about meeting new customers and receiving orders on the spot, international and domestic buyers also appreciated the wide range of products they discovered at the fair.
 
Buyer opinions:

Mr Anil Miglani, President, SawHill Intl Ltd (Toronto), Canada
“The show has always been a satisfying one as we can meet some interesting and potential suppliers every time. So far, we’ve found two to three exhibitors that we look forward to working with. As a Chinese fair, Intertextile Shanghai is highly recommended as the exhibitors, domestic ones in particular, are of good quality and friendly to foreign visitors. The product range on offer is getting wider and wider, so I come to this show every year to look for potential Chinese suppliers.”

Mr Abdelkrim Boussehra, Yiwu Mingyu Import & Export Co., Ltd, Morocco
“This is my first time attending this fair. I didn’t know any of the Chinese brands here beforehand, but I think the quality of their products is really good. I met two machine suppliers, TPET & Richpeace, and will place orders with one of them. I’ve been to several shows in China, and I think this one is an effective sourcing platform because I can find everything I want.”

Mr Paul Chen, Business Supervisor, Jiangsu Yueda Hometex R and D Co., Ltd, China
“Compared to the previous editions, there are more and more high level and innovative products. Big domestic brands like Mercury, Goldsun and Bermo are all here and we are interested to work with them. This is an excellent platform that facilitates our sourcing with these exhibitors all under one roof.”

Fringe programme brought insight to fairgoers
Apart from concrete business outcomes, the fair’s fringe programme, including the Intangible Cultural Heritage Zone and a series of forums, further enriched the three-day show. Fairgoers were fascinated by the presentation of unique and traditional textile production and processing techniques from Chinese ethnic minorities in the Heritage Zone. While the forums that discussed topics from consumption upgrade to the newest technology applications were another success as they provided extra opportunities for industry players to share their insights and learn the latest developments.

The next Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles fair, the 2018 Autumn Edition, will be held from 27 – 30 August at the same venue. Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA). 

• Production and export on the upswing
• Environmental problems and other challenges remain

The leather industry in Bangladesh reports rising exports and growing domestic demand. The location scores with low labor costs and the availability of leather. However, too many tanneries still burden the environment. The industry structure of the manufacturers of leather goods and shoes ranges from outdated to modern. International, export-oriented companies are showing the way.

Bangladesh's leather industry is the second largest exporter of the emerging market after the apparel industry. The majority of exports in the 2016/17 financial year (July 1st 2016 to June 31st 2017) were USD 537 million on leather shoes (USD 495 million in the previous year), followed by leather goods with USD 464 million (388 million). The export of leather footwear rose again by 9 per cent in the second half of 2017, leather goods were at the same level as in the same period of the previous year.

By contrast, leather exports reached USD 233 million in 2016/17 (USD 279 million), down 29 percent in the second half of 2017. The main reason is lower demand for leather in China. Instead, it is increasingly being processed in Bangladesh into finished products for domestic and foreign customers.

Potential not yet exhausted
The Department of Commerce wants to quadruple the total exports to USD 5 billion by 2021. It has mandated this task at the Bangladesh Leather Sector Business Promotion Council. This should increase with suitable measures both the production quantities and the processing depth in the country. Leather production and processing have potential because they could well repeat the successful development of the domestic textile and clothing industry.

International investments are welcome. Foreign investors can find a subsidiary in their own hands and apply for subsidies and tax exemptions. Eight export processing zones and other special economic zones offer many legal and technical advantages, says the investment authority Bangladesh Investment Development Authority.

The Association of Leather Goods and Footwear Manufacturers & Exporters of Bangladesh (LFMEAB) reports that companies from Taiwan, China, South Korea and Japan are increasingly investing in the industry. Among other things they are relocating production from China to Bangladesh.

Source: Central bank

According to the Central Bank in the fiscal year 2016/17 USD 82 million were directly invested in the leather industry (previous year: USD 48 million).  Taiwan was by far the largest investor with USD 50 million (USD 14 million).

Also, former investors show a successful development. As an example the German company Picard Lederwaren has a joint venture in 1997 and produces now  32.000 leather bags per month and 40.000 small leather goods per month.

Certified manufacturer of leather goods
The most important buyers of leather goods and shoes are the EU, Japan and the USA. The EU and Japan generally do not impose quotas or import duties on Bangladeshi imports under their preference systems for developing countries.

The export-oriented leather goods manufacturers usually produce at a technical level required by the customers. These include certifications and exams. The trade association LFMEAB is committed to meeting industry-standard levels among its 150 member companies. The European Union also supports a sustainable, resource-efficient development of the leather sector with its ECOLEBAN project. Several tanneries and leather factories have been proven to adhere to the labor and social standards of the UN organization ILO and the ISO standard 14001 for environmental management systems.

With increasing demands and volumes, leather processing companies will also import more quality materials such as soles and accessories. Their machines and equipment are also from abroad.

Problematic conditions in leather production
However the leather is manufactured under problematic conditions. The agricultural land has a population of about 24 million cattle and thus about 1.7 percent of the world's total. The meat industry also processes buffalo and goats in larger quantities. Animals suffer from improper slaughter. Modern slaughtering processes and advanced processing steps could improve the quality of leather production.

The number of tanneries is estimated at more than 200, producing approximately 29 million square meters of leather per year, two-thirds of it are leather from beef skins. The industry has a poor reputation, the situation in many companies is criticized by independent observers. In most companies processes and equipment for occupational safety and environmental protection are not available. According to various reports children are working in poorly controlled factories.

The situation in Hazaribagh is dramatic. The Supreme Court has ordered already in 2003 that the approximately 150 small tanneries from this residential area in Dhaka should move to an alternative location. The public company Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corp. was commissioned to set up the leather industry park Savar Tannery Park in a northern suburb of Dhaka. The complete relocation to the new leather cluster in Savar has since been delayed again and again.

According to the Bangladesh Tanners Association, the move to the Savar leather-industrial-park should have taken place in the meantime, however the local central sewage treatment plant seems not to work completely. The tanneries pollute the environment there as well. Media also report still tannery activity in Hazaribagh.

More skilled workers needed
In a recent 2013 survey the number of leatherworking companies was estimated at 3.500. The manufacturers develop their own designs for the domestic market and some want to place their own brands internationally.

But the intensity of training of skilled personnel does not keep up with the industrialization of the industry. Tanneries and leather industry employ directly and indirectly about 75.000 people. Their knowledge and skills are often based on old and traditional procedures and short briefings.

The need for skilled personnel is estimated at 60.000 persons. A center of excellence is involved in the training since 2009. The Center of Excellence for Leather Skills Bangladesh (COEL) has trained around 15.000 people in machinery and design since. Two universities train engineers in this field. The University of Dhaka has established an Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology, and the Khulna University of Engineering has a leather technology department.

The Ministry of Commerce and the association LFMEAB has organized in November 2017 the first edition of the trade fair BLLISS (Bangladesh Leatherfootwear & Leathergoods International Sourcing Show). The organizers were able to present the procurement market and want to continue the event annually. The industry event attracted 30 exhibitors and 20.000 visitors. The next edition will take place from  November 24th- 26th 2018 in conjunction with the leather technology fair Leathertech (http://www.leathertechbangladesh.com).

• Companies want stay away from cheap contract manufacturing

Istanbul (GTAI) - The highly export-oriented Turkish textile and clothing industry wants to increase its competitiveness on world markets by investing in design. The hitherto widespread contract manufacturing for foreign brand manufacturers is losing importance in favor of own collections. With a law from 2016, the Turkish state explicitly promotes investment in design.

The Turkish textile and clothing industry is going through a structural change: While the garment industry was once particularly interesting because of the comparatively low labor costs for contract manufacturing orders from Western companies, Turkish manufacturers are increasingly working as designers for international clients. In addition to well-known Turkish fashion manufacturers such as Ipekyol, Vakko and Zorluteks, more and more Turkish textile companies are also manufacturing and marketing their own brands. In parallel, they are expanding their online sales network. For example, Ipekyol intends to close half of its stores in the next 20 years.

In order to meet the changing demand of foreign cooperation partners, Turkish clothing companies are increasingly investing in research and development projects, as the Turkish business magazine Ekonomist reports.

For example, Hassan Tekstil (http://www.hassan.com.tr) based in Istanbul, founded in 2017, has a 45-member R & D department. The company, whose revenues of USD 232 mio in 2016 were generated 35 percent from exports, plans to spend1.5 percent of its revenue on R & D activities.    

Another company that is increasingly investing in R & D and design is TYH Tekstil (http://www.tyh.com.tr) in Istanbul. This purely export-oriented company with a turnover of around USD 100 mio (2016) employs 15 fashion experts. About 1.5 to 2 percent of sales, which will reach around USD 130 mio in 2017, will be used for design projects and the development of collections, according to the Economist's report. In addition to contract manufacturing for well-known international brands such as Gant and COS, TYH Tekstil also developed its own brand Roqa for women's outerwear. Meanwhile, 20 to 25 percent of exports are from the supply of private label products.

Innovative workwear for security forces

According to Economist, another manufacturer with increasing R & D activities is Narkonteks (http://www.narkonteks.com) in Izmir. This company, which does not produces for international companies only, produces also goods under its own brand "Blackspade". Narkonteks also supplies customers in the Netherlands with technical textiles for security personnel. The manufacturer employs 30 engineers for its R & D activities. Of the targeted sales of TL 100 mio in 2017, 1.5 percent will be spent on R & D activities.

In 2016 Narkonteks generated around TL 80 mio. (1 Euro = 4.50 TL). The company Farb Textile (http://www.farbetextile.com) in Izmir, which sews for European fashion companies such as Bestseller, Inditex and Mango, emphasizes increased design activities also, according to Economist. About 60 percent of the production are own brands. The turnover of TL 100 mio (2016), should be increased to TL 130 mio.
 
One of the larger R & D investors is the clothing manufacturer Taypa Tekstil in Istanbul (http://www.taypa.com.tr) with a turnover of EUR 100 million, which exports about 80 percent of its production. The parent company TAy Group, which supplies large fashion houses such as Levis, Inditex and Tommy Hilfiger, uses 5 percent of its revenue for research and innovation projects and employs 25 designers, writes the magazine Ekonomist. The share of own brands in sales of currently 21 percent is to be increased to 50 percent in the foreseeable future.

Taypa invests in major project in Algeria

In addition to the existing production in Egypt Taypa Tekstil manufactures in Serbia and Algeria. In a clothing factory in Kraljevo, Serbia, EUR 35 mio should be invested over the next five years. A large-scale project called "TayalSPA" is being planned in Algeria for the construction of an integrated textile and clothing factory in the Sidi Khetab industrial zone in the province of Relizane. According to Taypa CEO Burak Karaarslan, quoted in the business paper "Dünya", this project, with an support of 50 percent by the Algerian government will receive investments totaling USD 2 billion in three phases until 2023.

USD 800 mio will be invested in the recently started initial construction phase. The company will start with yarn production first. Thereafter, from the end of 2018, the production of denim and other fabrics will commence. After completion of the first phase, the annual production will reach 30 million meters of denim and non-denim fabrics, 14 million meters of fabrics for shirts, 3,200 tons of knitwear and 30 million pieces of ready-made garments.    

Government encourages investment in research and development

The Turkish state has been promoting investments in design since 2016: By Law No. 6676 of February16th 2016 (Government Gazette "Resmi Gazete" No. 29636 of 26.02.16) amending Law No. 5746 of 28.02.08 on the promotion R & D activities, in contrast to the previous practice, investment in design projects were concluded in the government support. Thus, companies that employ at least 15 people (previously 30) in the R & D sector can benefit from tax and customs privileges. Imported products for research projects are exempt from import duties.

Comprehensive support measures in the form of project-based grants for the marketing of Turkish brands abroad also include Regulation No. 2016/1 of the Turkish Monetary Credit and Coordination Council, which was announced in the Official Gazette No. 29898 of November 24th 2016. The implementation of subsidies is the responsibility of the Ministry of Economy.

According to figures from the Ministry of Science, Industry and Technology, there are a total of 38 R & D and 29 design centers nationwide in the textile and clothing industry.

Germany is most important target market

Turkey is a major exporter of textiles and clothing. According to official statistics, the country exported USD 24.3 billion worth of textiles and clothing in 2016 (including USD 16.7 billion in ready-to-wear articles). The export association IHKIB is targeting USD 60 billion in ready-to-wear exports in 2023. In apparel, Germany is the most important customer with a share of 18.8 percent. For textiles and textile raw materials, the country is the fourth largest market for Turkish exporters with 5 percent.     

Source: Export Association IHKIB; Turkish Ministry of Economy

Source: IHKIB; Ministry of Economy

Source: IHKIB; Ministry of Economy

Source: IHKIB; Ministry of Economy  

• Morocco, Ethiopia and South Africa: Network comprises the most important textile regions in Africa
• Emerging continent: positive forecasts in the textile sector

First Ethiopia, then South Africa and shortly Morocco: Messe Frankfurt is expanding its portfolio of textile trade fairs on the African continent. With its forthcoming cooperation with the two trade fairs Maroc in Mode and Maroc Sourcing, the global market leader for textile trade fairs is expanding its presence in North West Africa. ‘In future, our network will extend across important textile regions in Africa and encompass the leading trade fairs on the emerging continent’, explains Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt. ‘With our commitment to Ethiopia, South Africa and, in future, Morocco, we have created excellent conditions to support the positive developments in Africa's textile industry’. Demographic change, increasing urbanisation and shifts in economic forces - these global developments are promoting the growth of the African economy and having a significant impact on the textile industry.

According to the UN Economic Report on Africa 2017, Africa has the fastest growing population. The current population of around 1.2 billion people will more than double by 2050. The number of working people on the African continent is also increasing rapidly. The largest working population (1.1 billion) in the world is predicted to be in Africa by 2034. These demographic changes are causing personal and business consumption to increase sharply, and this will primarily benefit regional economic markets. 

Morocco: Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing

Morocco in particular offers great potential for the clothing trade: Morocco's proximity to important fashion markets such as the EU and the USA, various free trade agreements and a recent economic growth rate of four per cent (between 2010 and 2015, Nachrichten für den Außenhandel, NfA, 19 January 2017) create a secure business climate. The Maroc in Fashion and Maroc Sourcing trade fairs, which have been in existence since 2014, currently showcase around 120 exhibitors from Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt, Turkey, China and a number of Western European countries. The extensive product portfolio inspires with its strong expertise in fashion. The trade fairs are regarded as a hotspot for fast fashion and not only present fashion, denim, lingerie and knitwear, but also sports and casualwear, workwear and accessories. Messe Frankfurt will agree on a cooperation with AMITH (Association Marocaine des Industries du Textile et de l’Habillement), the organiser of the event, for the next edition. The trade fair will take place on 26-27 October 2017 at the Exhibition Park Hassan Circuit in Marrakesh. 

South Africa: Source Africa & ATF Expo

South Africa is the continent's strongest economic power and one of the largest consumer markets. The country has the most powerful retail sector and is the best networked of all African countries. This international networking and its regional free trade agreements make South Africa an important hub for trade with other African countries as well as neighbouring Pacific countries such as the Arabian Peninsula and India.

With the recently approved takeover of the Source Africa and ATF fairs, Messe Frankfurt is driving the exchange between international and regional buyers, manufacturers and suppliers in this region. Source Africa was founded in 2014 as a trade fair for African producers of fabrics, accessories, clothing, shoes and leather items. It appeals not only to African trade buyers but also to international manufacturers of clothing and fashion. The fifth edition of the fair will take place on 20-21 June 2018 at the International Convention Center (CTICC) in Cape Town. ATF Expo will open its doors at the same venue from  21 to 23 November 2017. Ever since 1998, this trade fair has offered an internationally-oriented product range of fabrics, clothing, shoes, leather goods and accessories as well as services for a predominantly local and regional purchasing community.

Ethiopia: successful start for Texworld, Apparel Sourcing and Texprocess

In eastern Africa, Ethiopia has developed into an attractive contract manufacturing country for clothing and leather goods thanks to the government's strategy of focusing on light industry. Ethiopia also benefits from free trade agreements such as AGOA that are aimed at promoting the African economy. With the Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week (ASFW), Messe Frankfurt has had a strong partner at its side ever since the latest edition in October 2017. Offshoots of the three trade fair brands Texworld, Apparel Sourcing and Texprocess were integrated into the Africa Sourcing & Fashion Week for the first time. It is a sourcing platform for mainly European and US fashion companies. The seventh edition brought together around 200 international exhibitors from 25 countries in Addis Ababa's Millennium Hall. Clothing fabrics, contract manufacturing, fashion and accessories were exhibited as well as machinery for contract manufacturing, CAD/CAM systems, printers, printing inks and accessories. In addition, the trade fair also impressed visitors with a fashion show, a series of lectures, a trend section and a matchmaking platform.

Messe Frankfurt: A strong presence in global textile markets

With a portfolio of over 50 international textile trade fairs, Messe Frankfurt is the global market leader in trade fairs for the textile industry. In 2016, around 19,500 exhibitors and approx. 477,000 visitors came to the events in Europe, North America and Asia. With the name Texpertise Network, the textile event offer of Messe Frankfurt covers the entire value creation chain – from apparel fabrics and fashion to home and contract textiles, technical textiles and the processing and care of textiles. The trade fairs include the successful brands Texworld, Apparel Sourcing, Ethical Fashion Show, Greenshowroom, Intertextile, Yarn Expo, Leatherworld, Emitex, Avantex, Avanprint, Heimtextil, Intertextile Home Textiles, Interior Lifestyle, Home Textiles Sourcing, Techtextil, Texprocess, Simatex, Confemaq and Texcare.

Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing: www.marocsourcing.ma
Source Africa & AFT: www.sourceafrica.co.za / www.atfexpo.co.za
Africa Sourcing & Fashion Week: www.asfw-online.com

• Sales are increasing since four years
• Developing of up new markets abroad

Prague (GTAI) - Czech textile and clothing manufacturers are among the winners of the good economic situation. The trend towards domestic products and the rising purchasing power are inspiring the companies. At the same time they benefit from a growing demand from abroad. According to the association ATOK the turnover of the sector rose to Kc 53,5 billion (just under EUR 2 billion) in 2016. It was the fourth year of growth in a row.

An important growth driver of the Czech textile industry is the automotive sector. The largest sales are achieved with technical textiles, and these are mostly used in the over 1.3 million passenger cars, which are rolling in the Czech Republic off the assembly lines every year. The German automotive supplier Borgers is therefore the second largest textile manufacturer in the country. The company produces textile trims for trunks, passenger compartments or underfloor at four locations in the Plzen region. About 200,000 parts leave the factory every day for VW, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Bentley and Rolls Royce. The largest textile company in 2016 was the company Juta with productions of geotextiles, insulation materials and packaging material.

The positive dynamism of textile manufacturers is continuing in 2017. According to statistics from January to May the production index rose by 3% and the value of new orders even rose by 5%. On the other hand the garment manufacturers have to announce sales reductions following the strong year before. Future growth could be curbed by rising wages, the appreciation of the national currency and a lack of staff.

Sources: Association of the Textile, Garment and Leather Industry (ATOK), Calculations by Germany Trade & Invest

Even more dynamically than the sector's profits the foreign trade has developed in 2016. Since the Czech Republic is being used as a transit and logistics location by international trading companies, the volume of exports is significantly higher than the total turnover of the domestic manufacturers. According to the ATOK association, in 2016 textiles were exported for Kc 63.8 billion (EUR 2.36 billion) and clothing for Kc 47.2 billion (EUR 1.74 billion). This was an increase of 5% for textiles and 31% for clothing. Import of textiles rose by 6% to Ks 59.3 billion (EUR 2.19 billion), import of garment rose by 20% to Kc 67.9 billion (EUR 2.51 billion).

This has somewhat reduced the trade deficit in clothing. In the major fashion chains however foreign goods still dominate. Czech vendors have little chance of coming to the shelves and taking part in the fast fashion cycles and fast fashion changes. The association ATOK estimates that they have a market share of a maximum of 20% in clothing retailing. As a result, domestic manufacturers are increasingly focusing on direct selling, either via internet shops or through their own sales outlets. They also strengthen the building of their own brands, after having carried out commission work for international fashion groups for many years. Customized products are in the trend also. Some companies that have hitherto mainly served the home market are now looking increasingly at foreign markets. The swimwear and underwear producer Timo from Litomerice, for example, wants to supply to Germany also in the future, reported by the economic newspaper Hospodarske noviny.

Textile companies invest more and more abroad
The East Bohemian specialist for bathroom textiles, Grund, already has a sales company in Lower Saxony. The carpet manufacturer is now planning to build a factory in the south of the USA and intends to invest more than USD 1 million. Silon from South Bohemia, which is one of the largest manufacturers of polyester fibers in Europe, is building a manufacturing plant for plastic compounding in the USA in order to reduce the delivery time for raw materials and to be closer to the customer. There are interesting developments in the research area. The institute VUTS from Liberec, has developed, together with Taiwanese scientists, a pneumatic loom that can produce 3D fabrics made of high-strength polyester silk. The material can be used for boat building or flood protection. The machine should be presented for the first time at a trade fair in 2019. Until then the textile manufacturer Veba from Broumov wants to have developed a new 3D fabric. It is intended to reinforce matrices.

After the extra economy in 2015 due to the last-time levy of EU funds from the old funding period, investments in the textile industry had shrunk in 2016. According to the Ministry of Economic Affairs the manufacturers invested some Kc 2.78 billion (around EUR 100 million), a sixth less than in the previous year. On the other hand, investments in the garment sector were up by a quarter to over Kc 850 million (around EUR 31 million). The development was also reflected in the import figures for textile machines. At the beginning of the year 2017 imports rose again in some product groups, thus opening up sales opportunities for finishing manufacturers. German suppliers account for roughly half of the machinery supply for the textile industry.

In April 2017 the Moravian nonwoven fabric manufacturer Retex had issued a tender for a production plant for over EUR 7 million. In Zatec near Usti nad Labem Unifrax wants to build a production plant for silicate fabrics. Juta is currently investing around EUR 13 million in the production of grids and plans to get the plant expansion at Dvur Kralove into operation in autumn 2017. The Japanese Toray Textiles is expanding its factory for airbag fabrics and printing plates in Prostejov over the next four years. The North Moravian supplier of outdoor clothing, Tilak, is also expanding its production facilities in Sumperk.

Source: Czech Statistical Office

• Production stabilizes at lower level
• Import of textile machines increased

Jerusalem (GTAI) - The Israeli textile and clothing industry has largely stabilized after years of decline. This applies both to the added value of the sector and to exports. Thanks to new capacities, the textile sector was able in 2106 to record a significant increase in production. In the import of textile machinery Germany plays the leading role. On the other hand, the German import market share of imports of textile and clothing products is low..

For a long time, Israel's textile and clothing industry was a serious problem sector of the manufacturing industry. But now it seems to catch up itself again. This is confirmed by the production statistics. In a crisis phase between 2007 and 2013, the added value by the textile and clothing industry had declined by a total of 25.7%. While the shrinking of the clothing sector was 21.4%, the textile industry fell by 31.2%. The reasons for this development were the increasing competition from low-cost imports on the domestic market and declining exports. Since 2013, however, the figures have stabilized and are pointing upwards.

*) HS-section XI (spun textile fabrics and articles thereof)
Source: Monthly paper on foreign trade statistics, various editions, Central Statistical Office

Product range cleared up

The stabilization was achieved through a comprehensive clearing up process in the textile and clothing industry, in the course of which products and production processes, in which Israel was no longer internationally competitive, were discontinued or outsourced to cheaper locations. Thru rationalization processes the productivity was increased.  The added value of the textile and clothing industry in 2016 per employee reached 4.8% above the level of 2011. The cumulative increase in productivity in the textile sector was 3.5 and in the clothing sector 5.6%.
The adjustment of the product range led to a drop in exports and simultaneously to an increase in imports. The Israeli manufacturers are increasingly looking to raise their turnover in high-quality and less labor-intensive products, which also have opportunities on the world market.

According to the most recent available data, the export rate of the textile and clothing industry in 2014 was 50.1%. There was an extreme division in the clothing sector: while the manufacturers of clothing products other than underwear only accounted for 3.9% of their sales in the international business, almost the entire production of underwear was exported.
The main export position of the Israeli textile industry is covered by HS heading 56 (cotton, felt and nonwovens, special yarns, twine, cordage, ropes and cables). In 2016 these products accounted for 28.7% of the textile and clothing exports, followed by synthetic or artificial filaments with 14.3%, knitted products with 13.0% of the exports.

*) Conversion of official internal price data according to the yearly average exchange rate
Source: Central Office of Statistics

Following the successful stabilization, the Israeli industry is also daring to create new production capacities. In 2015 and 2016 two new factories were set up for the production of nonwovens and have started to operate. On the one hand, this became reflected in increased machinery investments by the textile sector, and secondly in the strong increase in the production of the textile industry in 2016 by 15.8%.

Germany leading supplier of textile machines

Parallel to the increase in production the import of textile machinery is increasing since 2014. In 2016, it reached USD 62.2 million, more than twice the low level of 2013. German textile machinery manufacturers were able to participate in this growth in a leading position..

Source: UN Comtade Database

In 2016 the German import market share of textile machinery reached a hight of 60.2%, so the Federal Republic was by far the most important delivery country, followed by Italy and France.

Source: UN Comtrade Database

The leading supplier in the import market for garments and textile products is P.R.China. In 2016 39.3% of the imports of the HS section XI (textile materials and articles thereof) accounted for China. Germany played with 1.6% (USD 39.1 mio) only a subordinate role. The main German delivery positions were clothing and clothing accessories (HS chapters 61 and 62) with 43.7%, followed by synthetic or artificial spun fibers (14.3%).

Contact addresses
Manufacturers Association of Israel Textile and Fashion Industries Association Ansprechpartnerin: Ms. Maya Herscovitz, Director of Association
Hamered St. 29, Tel Aviv 68125 Tel.: 00972 3/519 88 55, Fax- 519 87 05 E-Mail: maya@industry.org.il,, Internet:  http://www.industry.org.il.

• Foreign companies should adapt their fashion to Chinese needs
• Increasing health awareness strengthens sportwear market

Beijing (GTAI) - The Chinese clothing market is one of the largest in the world and is developing rapidly. From the lower mass volume over the in quality and optic pretty products in a midprice segment to luxury and haute-couture the range of products in the sectors is constantly expanding. In addition to the tendency towards recognized brands an increasing individualization of consumption can be observed. What is needed, what fits well is liked and moreover is somehow "special".

According to the Chinese Statistical Office (NBS), the retail sales of clothing increased in 2016 to more than USD 150 billion (these figures include companies with annual sales of over USD 3 million in their main business). This makes the Chinese clothing market to one of the largest in the world.

The Chinese consumer desires are increasingly demanding, differentiated and personalized. The new possibilities of the Internet, including the booming e-commerce, are changing the purchasing behavior drastically. The level of information has risen significantly, especially as a result of visits abroad. Customers are increasingly aware of prices that have to be paid outside of China. Too high price increases are therefore perceived as discrimination and damage the image of brands.

"The success is not decided by online or offline trading or whether it is a local or international company, but whether the supply meets the demand," Liu Xiaolu, founder of the popular underwear brand Neiwai says.  Essential are the right materials and a quick response to the changing needs of the customers. Finding the right piece online can actually be difficult. A number of hitherto exclusively online offering vendors such as Miss Rhino have recently opened additional conventional stores in order to provide a better advice to customers.   

Fashion must meet Chinese expectations

This makes the sector division representative for the entire Chinese fashion market: the products must be liked and should fit. From the customers' point of view, it is important to find the balance between foreign flair and local characteristics. Not without a reason the 345 yuan (RMB, around 52 $, 1 USD = 6.6442 RMB, as annual average price 2016) for expensive model O2bra "Naja Nina", is one of the bestsellers of the Neiwai brand in Shanghai. It unites Chinese and Western elements: from the outside plain black, decorated inside with erotic motifs from classical Chinese painting.  In general, the underwear sector within the fashion market is considered to be the least saturated and segmented. The Chinese retail trade sold women's underwear at about USD 20.1 billion in 2016. It is estimated to reach USD 25 billion in 2017. For 2020 Euromonitor International predicts sales of USD 33 billion.    

The top ten producers share 13% of the market only. The bulk of this is due to thousands of hardly known companies selling their products at low prices. The prices for a bra range from RMB 50 piece from the Chinese mass producer Cosmo Lady to one hundred times higher Italian brand La Perla. In order to benefit from the more demanding wishes of the Chinese women's world, for example Victoria's Secret from the USA opened its first subsidiary in the People's Republic in Shanghai in March 2017 - a four-storied flagship store.

According to the industry in the long term it hardly will be possible to bring for Western women designed goods to China.  Although in the medium to long term the Chinese ladies statistically seem to become larger and more corpulent, but the purely physical differences will still remain considerable. According to the China Physical Fitness Surveillance Center, women aged 20 to 24 in 2000 were 158.6 cm tall in average, their breast circumference was 82 cm, ten years later they were measured 159 cm respectively still 82 cm. Women of the age of 25 to 29 years measured in 2000 about 158.7 cm / 82.5 cm and in 2010 at 158.2 cm / 83.4 cm. At this background, the companies need not only to develop appropriate fit-sizes. They also have to accept that Chinese women have a more functional or conventional attitude than, for example, women from the USA. This is not least true for swimwear also.

The market for sportswear is growing strongly

According to taobao.com, the largest online platform in the country, more than 21 million bikinis and bathing suits are being sold annually. It is true that every third piece is a bikini, but according to Taobo Chinese women generally prefer to dress more covered than the Western ones. Preference is given to models made with a lot of fabric, looking often much like skirts. Leading are the local companies Hosa, Heatwave and Zoke with prices between RMB 400 and 500. However, many younger Chinese prefer more likely to shop on foreign websites.

Given the strong growth in beach and spa tourism, the demand for swimwear in China will grow at an above-average rate. In general, the sporting goods sector is predicted to get an above-average growth together with increasing health awareness. According to Euromonitor International, sales of sportswear in China are expected to grow to around RMB 281 billion by 2020, of which about RMB 20 to 30 billion will be spent on sports underwear. In total, an estimated value of RMB 170 to 180 billion of sportswear will be sold in the PR China in 2016. The sector is happy and looking forward to a growth of around 10% per annum.

Destination Mauritius - rebuiding former relationsships

Island of dreams in the middle of the Indian ocean for some travellers neighbouring the last European outpost, French overseas department La Réunion, a destination for reliable production of textiles and apparel for the European, notably German fashion market, this is the spectrum
of associations that Mauritius evokes in the heads of people. Mauritius looks back on a long time experience in producing textiles and apparel since its independence from Britain in 1968. Republic since 1992 the group of islands is one of the very few stable democracies in Africa.

Arvind Radhakrishna, CEO of Enterprise Mauritius, the organiser of the Mauritius day, April 5, 2017 at Düsseldorf Fashion House II, gives it a strong regret that the relation between Mauritius and Germany, mainly based on knitwear, dating back in the early 70ies nearly came to an end. The amount of textile exports into Germany in 2015 was just about 30 million Euros and counting. Anyhow this does not represent the strength of the Mauritian apparel industry which is a hub in the region with own inland production completed by production plants on the neighbour island Madagascar, in South Africa and some even in Bangladesh to serve a lower price level, which cannot be achieved with Mauritian production itself. In 2015, domestic exports to Europe accounted for 40 %, USA: 24% and South Africa: 21%. Charming is the fact that the delivery of Mauritian goods is duty free.

Strong support by the government

Interested buyers are heartily invited to come and see with their own eyes what the Mauritian textile and apparel industry can offer. This industry is one of the strong pillars of the gross domestic output. Others are tourism and - up and coming - the lapidary and jewellery industry. Traditional fields of production are spices, sugarcane products including rum or cosmetics.

To foster textiles and apparel exports the government sponsors airfreight costs by 40%, part of a holistic program in the speed to market scheme. To compare the benefits of Mauritius as a sourcing destination compared for example with China, besides the shorter distance, is that the minimum order quantities per style are much smaller than in China, the quality standard is high, the social compliance is given. Mauritian companies must spend 1% of their gains for Corporate Social Responsibility – CSR projects. Certificates such as BSCI, SA8000 or WRAP are common. Free entry to the EU market is guaranteed by the EU partnership agreement. And - a point that should not be neglected - most of the companies offer creative services executed by their inhouse design departments or people. This makes it clearer why the textile and apparel industry had been a strong engine for economic growth in Mauritius.

Main products are: T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Shirts, Trousers & Denim, Pullovers & Cardigans, Formal Suits, Beachwear & Underwear, and Childrenswear etc. Main material used: cotton and its blends. There is a strong focus on knitted fabrics and jerseys of all kind paired with woven denims. The price segment of Mauritian clothing mainly ranges in the lower middle range. There is a high awareness for sustainability. The exporting companies aim to use eco-friendly substances in resources saving production processes. Laser technology for effects on denim is widely in use.

A look to the companies presenting

• FINE TEXTILES LTD
  Contact: Mamade Nohur 
  Tel.: +230 2661092/57321079
  E-mail: finetextileltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Polo shirts/T-shirts/Sweat shirts
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. per colour
  Fine Textiles mostly produce menswear. They distribute their garments under own label M*RIYANO and private label for their customers. The own label is calculated to compete with the Chinese market. Time from sample to delivery takes about 5 to 6 weeks.

• FIREMOUNT TEXTILES LTD / FM DENIM LTD
  Contact: Sangeeta Gobin
  Tel.: +230 2075836
  Email: sangeeta@firemount.mu
  Website: www.firemount.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim fabrics & Denim and Twill Jeans pants/Jackets/shirts/Shorts/Dresses
  Minimum order: 6000-7000 yd. fabric or 2500-3000 pcs. of jeans per order
  Certifications: WRAP
  The company is fully vertical and the biggest supplier of apparel in Mauritius, still growing, looking for direct relations to retailers. Due to the latest technologies available, the company aims to fulfil the needs for sustainable production. Stretch, even power stretch is used in nearly every jeans style.

• TEX KNITS LTD
  Contact: Suresh Radha
  Tel.: +230 2865577
  Email: info@texinternational.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim trousers, jackets, shirts etc. /Knitted garments for ladies, men and children
  Minimum order: 800 pcs. per style/colour
  Certifications: Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA)
  The knits company is part of a group offering garments in a broad range. To serve the UK market they run an office in London. The company puts a strong focus on design input for the international clients. Production plants in Madagascar and Bangladesh serves different price ranges.

• PALMAR LTEE
  Contacts: Yannick Capiron (Knits), Genevieve Marie Figaro (Denim)
  Tel.: +230 401 7000
  Email: y.capiron@palmar.intnet.mu; gfigaro@palmar.intnet.mu
  Type: CMT & Final Product
  Products: Jeans, Chinos, Shorts, Dresses, Skirts for kids, Women & Men
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. for jerseys; 800 pcs. for jeans
  Over two thirds of the production is for menswear. The company is a family business which takes special interest in sustainable and resources saving production. The knitting department is fully
  vertically integrated. A fair trade line is being offered, pure organic is in development.Contact: Ranil Gunasekara
  Tel.: +230 4130034
  Email: camdenimltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim jeans for men, women, children and toddlers
  Minimum order: 1200 per style
  The company solely works for private labels. The main market until now is South Africa. The production is going to be shifted to a higher percentage of eco-friendly production, representing 17% for the time being. Prices range in the upper middle segment.

• TARA KNITWEAR LTD
  Contact: Fabiola Law
  Tel.: +230 2123715/52553621
  Email: fabiolalaw@taragroup.intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: T-shirt, polo shirt, sweat shirt, hoody, short, pant, skirt, dress, baby grow, baby/kid swear accessories (beanie, bootie, blanket, sleeping bag, headband), sleepwear, loungewear
  Minimum order: Basic styles: 4000 units. Fancy styles: 1000-2000 units
  Certifications: BSCI
  Tara is very design oriented with a big in house design department open for design services to customers too. The company's organisation is vertically integrated. Modern equipment such as the
  Eton Mover system enables the company to react fast and operate Fast Track orders too.

• BEACHWEAR EXPORTS
  Contact: Mr. G.M Toolsee
  Tel.: +230 4545600
  Email: girdhar@beachwear.intnet.mu/beachwear@intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Swimwear and related products
  Minimum order: 300-500 units per style
  Certification: BSCI, SMETA, SEDEX
  All production is for private label. The company features as the leading supplier of swim and beach wear in Mauritius. Well known international brands are customers from US to Europe, mainly in Italy, France and UK as well as South Africa and Zimbabwe.

• No longer just milk powder demanded 
• Internet important sales channel

The easing of the one-child policy in China will probably not bring the expected baby boom. Nevertheless, the market for baby products is very interesting for foreign suppliers. Because Chinese parents trust these more than domestic products and they are willing to spend money on imports. After this has been already the case with milk powder, now household appliances, furniture, care products for babies and expectant mothers are in the focus. The internet is very important as a sales channel.

Between 17.5 million and 21 million babies are expected to be born every year in China, according to the forecasts of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) within the next five years. This provides a large market for products needed for baby care and for pregnant women. Also baby seats for cars, prams and furniture from abroad are being sought as well.

According to iResearch market research the total sales of products for pregnant women, mothers and babies amounted to RMB 2.3 billion in 2015. (approximately USD 360 billion; 1 USD = RMB 6.39 as an annual average). The growth rate of 25% is expected to weaken in the future, but the demand is still growing strongly. Despite the fact that the birth rates are hardly rising, the "little emperors" are pampered with pleasure. Quality and security promises are the decisive factor for foreign products in the urban middle class.

Quality and safety speak for foreign products 

The share of sales thru the Internet is steadily growing. More than 15% of purchases for the little Chinese are already made via the network. By 2018 the proportion is expected to grow to 23%. This is what market analysts have found out together with the second-largest Chinese online portal JD.com. Furthermore, the per capita purchases are highest in the prosperous coastal provinces. But, for example, mothers in Sichuan in the south-west also spend over RMB 1,000 per year for their offspring.

With China's size, new brands hardly can accomplish a successful market appearance. But the Internet provides a valuable platform and is used by expectant mothers to get information and also to purchase. Leading are the platforms of the Alibaba Group, for example Tmall and the competitor JD.com. There are also specialized shopping portals such as bleibi.com, mia.com and gou.com, as well as social media channels such as WeChat and Internet forums for expectant mothers (e.g. mama.cn or Babytree).

*) from 2016 forecasts
Source: iResearch, JD.com

Alibaba announced in its financial statement about cross-border Internet shopping for 2016, that baby products are already the third largest import category. In recent years this segment has grown considerably, in 2016 imported goods stood already for more than one-fifth of baby products sold on the Tmall and Taobao platforms.

Cross-border trade in baby products is booming

While in the past foreign milk powder brands were in high demand, now bottles, baby seats and care products for mother and child are now in the focus of online shoppers. Chinese milk powder still enjoys little confidence following a large scandal with contaminated milk powder in 2008.

The online trade however also was overshadowed in 2016 by scandals involving counterfeit products, mainly re-packaged milk powder came into circulation. The government therefore is watching the boom in overseas e-commerce with mixed feelings and consumers are becoming more cautious.

In recent years’ diapers, also have been ordered especially from abroad (especially from Japan). While these two categories continue to account for more than half of the sales, baby bottles and child seats experienced explosive growth in 2016. In addition, the mothers like to order cosmetics and personal hygiene, which will not hurt the growing life. This applies in particular to natural cosmetics.

In 2016 the leading countries of origin for online imports were Japan (19.3%), USA (18.3%) and Korea Rep. (13.6%). But Germany was already on fourth place with 8.0%. Particularly popular with "made in Germany" were kitchen equipment (including kitchen appliances), milk powder, baby food and food supplements.

*) HSPos. 9619 Sanitary napkins, tampons, diapers for toddlers;
Source: Chinese Custom

*) HSPos. 1901.10;
Source: Chinese Custom

• German fashion demanded
• Shoe chain CCC is expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The demand for textiles, clothing and footwear is developing particularly dynamic in Poland in 2016. These items are also popular Christmas gifts. Despite strong competition, Germany remains the third-largest foreign supplier of clothing and continues to grow. The German online retailer Zalando is building its first huge logistics center in Poland. The Discounter KiK is opening further branches. The domestic shoe chain CCC is expanding.

Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear are the fastest growing of all product groups in Poland. According to the Statistical Office (GUS) (http://stat.gov.pl), the real growth rate reached 15.8% in the first three quarters of 2016 compared to January to September 2015. The total retail sales rose by 5.3% in the same time. The forthcoming Christmas business is expected to further stimulate the demand for fashion items. The in the current year introduced children's allowance also will heat the purchase power of the Poles.

¹⁾ Estimation, ²⁾ Forecast
Source: Market research company PMR

First and foremost, growing is the demand for common items in the lower, middle and upper segment. Clothing manufacturers however in the luxury category do not benefit from the rising demand. According to the consulting firm KPMG, the poles spent in 2015 about 14.3 billion Zloty (Zl, about EUR 3.4 billion, 1 EUR = 4.1841, average price 2015) for luxury goods, including Zl 2,065 billion for clothing and accessories. These, however, form an important product group and rank second behind passenger cars (ZI 6.974 billion).

The largest domestic clothing company LPP  also felt the fact that the demand potential in the precious segment is limited. The company is known for its brands for everyone, especially "Reserved", which generates almost half (47%) of its revenues. At the beginning of 2016 LPP launched its new premium brand "Tallinder". After the sales however remained below the expectations, LPP announced the gradual abandonment of this project in September 2016.    

Tallinder was supposed to compete with the established gents brands and suppliers of other high-quality clothing names like Vistula, Bytom and Prochnik. The market leader in men's clothing Vistula, which also includes the jewelry chain "W.Kruk" and the brand of women's wear Deni Cler, expects in 2016 (2015) an increase of ZI 590 (518)  million and of its net profit to ZI 37.0 (28.3) million. Bytom follows far behind with projected revenues of ZI 154 (131) million and a net profit of EUR 14.1 (12.4) million.
 
CCC is aiming abroad

Due to the growing demand, the number of specialist stores for clothing is growing, according to GUS us to around 37,100 until the end of 2015 (2014: 35,900) . At the same time the number of stores for shoes and leather goods, which amounted to 8,200 (8,300) in 2015, fell slightly. One reason for this is the proliferation of relevant trade chains, such as the shoe chain CCC, which contributes to a consolidation, and the increasing online trade.

In 2016 alone CCC opens around 40 new stores in Poland and increases its sales area by 20 to 30% annually. In 2016 this will increase by 105,000 sqm and 2017 by 120,000 sqm (net). The trade chain is looking for additional franchisees in other European countries, now also in Asia and the USA. In the Russian Federation CCC wants to open large salons with about 1,000 square meters. According to the chain founder Dariusz Milek in an announcement of the daily paper Rzeczpospolita the presence in Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan and Central European neighbors should be increased too.

The branch networks in Germany and Austria should not be increased further in the near future; In Austria there are already almost all of the targeted total 70 CCC stores.  Due to the lack of profit in these two countries, their share of the group’s total income, which is expected to reach some ZI 3.2 billion in 2016, should not exceed 10%. CCC also relies on e-commerce. After the trade chain had already acquired the online shop for shoes eobuwie.pl, it wants to start in spring 2017 with its own e-shop.

Polish imports of clothing exceed exports. The two main suppliers of textiles, China and Bangladesh, were able to further increase their deliveries to Poland in 2015. Germany also achieved growth and finished third. Slovakia has multiplied its exports. Among the customer countries Germany was by far the most important player with a further significant increase in its demand. The other ranks were followed by the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Austria, Sweden and other mostly European countries.

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS

Germany is not only characterized by high-quality clothing and well-known brands in Poland. The in Europe leading chain KIK is spreading further in the neighboring country. By the end of 2017 the number of stores should increase to 200. Its first store in Poland KIK opened in March 2012.

E-commerce is likely to give further impetus to the German supply of clothing. The large online retailer Zalando is setting up its first logistics center in Poland in Gryfino in the area of the special economic zone Kostrzyn-Slubice (Küstrin-Frankfurt / O.) for an amount of EUR 150 million. According to the property developer Goodman, it will be the largest logistics area occupied by a single company in Poland. At the same time, it is one of the most extensive BTS (built-to-suit) projects in the country, in which an object is fully built according to the requirements of the future user. Its opening is scheduled for the second half of 2017. Zalando wants to supply from there Poland, the Nordic countries and a part of Germany.

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS