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12.01.2021

East German Textile and Clothing Industry recorded a significant Drop in Sales in 2020

vti calls on health textiles purchasers to place more orders with domestic manufacturers
East German textile and clothing industry faces the Covid-19 crises with new ideas and products
Clothing sector more affected than the textile sector

vti calls on health textiles purchasers to place more orders with domestic manufacturers
East German textile and clothing industry faces the Covid-19 crises with new ideas and products
Clothing sector more affected than the textile sector

The Association of the North-East German Textile and Clothing Industry (vti) calls on decision-makers in politics and authorities as well as in clinics and long-term care to order far more health protection textiles from local manufacturers than before. "That would be a logical step towards future-oriented, sustainable business - and furthermore in an exceptionally tough crisis situation. We are happy to arrange appropriate contacts with our companies," emphasized Dr.-Ing. Jenz Otto, Managing Director of the Chemnitz-based industry association, during an online press conference on January 8, 2021. “We don't understand the buying resistance concerning health textiles, even though the demand is huge. It is just as incomprehensible why there are still no noteworthy orders from authorities. In spring, the German federal government had already announced to provide 1 billion Euro with its economic stimulus package for national epidemic reserves for personal protective equipment. The federal states also had to take action in this regard and stock up. We urgently await the long-announced tenders for equipping the pandemic reserve stock. It is important that the purchase price is not the only measure of all things. Rather, criteria such as standard-compliant quality, traceable supply chains, the possibility of needs-based reorders and the multiple use of textiles are decisive for the safety of the population.”

When supply chains worldwide collapsed at the beginning of 2020, both authorities and many care and health facilities turned to textile companies for help. Many manufacturers launched both everyday masks and protective textiles that could be used in healthcare at short notice.
"These include highly effective bacteria and virus-repellent reusable products that enable effective textile management in the healthcare sector and at the same time prevent the piles of single-use waste from growing there," explained vti chairman Thomas Lindner, managing director of Strumpfwerk Lindner GmbH, Hohenstein-Ernstthal: “When the cheap imports from Asia reinstated, however, the interest decreased significantly. Nevertheless, numerous companies have continued to invest in new technology and aligned their production accordingly. For example, completely new production lines of face masks have been set up at several locations. Do not forget: The very expensive test procedures for medical and health textiles are a major challenge for us, the medium-sized businesses. In addition, there are still too few accredited test and certification bodies in Germany.” The fact that the companies were able to adapt to the new requirements at this rapid pace was primarily possible, because around 30 local companies and research institutes have been part of the health textiles network "health.textil", which is controlled by the vti and supported by the Free State of Saxony, for several years now. This alliance cooperates closely with practice partners such as the University Clinic of Dresden and the Elbland Clinics in Meißen. Nowadays it has expanded their activities to their neighbouring industry, research and application partner in Czech Republic. www.healthtextil.de

CO₂ taxation puts medium-sized companies at a competitive disadvantage
Concerning the permanently relevant topic energy transition in Germany, vti General Manager Dr.-Ing. Jenz Otto points out that the economic framework conditions for medium-sized producers will continue to worsen with the introduction of the CO₂ taxation in the midst of the current crisis. “The financial resources to be used for this will then be lacking for investments in innovative products and environmentally friendly manufacturing processes. Furthermore, our companies suffer significant competitive disadvantages compared to foreign competitors.” Björn-Olaf Dröge, managing director of the textile finishing company pro4tex GmbH, Niederfrohna, with around 100 employees, reported that the tax to be paid by his company for renewable energies adds up to around a quarter of a million euros annually. “Now the CO₂ taxation for our natural gas consumption comes on top of that. For 2021 we anticipate an additional burden of almost 70,000 Euros.”

vti about the current situation in the East German industry
The East German textile and clothing industry recorded a significant loss in sales already in 2019. This trend has continued in 2020 being reinforced by the Covid-19 crises. Based on preliminary estimates, the vti assumes that the total turnover of the industry will be more than 11 percent below the previous year at the end of 2020, where the clothing sector is affected far more than the textile sector, with a decline of 35 percent. Exports, which are extremely important for the industry, also decreased in a similar magnitude. The job cuts have so far been relatively moderate, as many companies use the short-time working regulations and try to retain their permanent workforce. For 2021 the vti sees a gleam of hope in technical textiles, which have been in greater demand again in recent weeks - especially from the automotive industry. The employment cuts have so far been relatively moderate, as many companies use short-time working regulations and try to retain their permanent workforce. The vti sees a bright future for technical textiles in 2021, which have been in greater demand – especially in the automobile industry – in the last few weeks.

Of the around 16,000 employees, 12,000 work in Saxony and 2,500 in Thuringia. This makes this region one of the four largest German textile locations, along North Rhine-Westphalia, Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria. It has modern spinning mills, weaving mills, knitting mills, warp knitting mills, nonwovens manufacturers, embroidery mills, finishing companies and clothing manufacturers as well as efficient research and educational institutions.

Over half of the turnover in the East German textile and clothing industry has so far been attributa-ble to technical textiles, followed by home textiles with around 30 percent and the clothing sector with around 10 percent. The vti acts as a stakeholder at state, federal and EU level, tariff- and so-cial partner, as well as a service provider for its around 160 member companies.

Dr.-Ing. Jenz Otto. Photo: W. Schmidt

Thomas Lindner. Photo: Thomas Imo.

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vti East Germany Association of the North-East German Textile and Clothing Industry

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Association of the North-East German Textile and Clothing Industry

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15.12.2020

Protection against Corona: Materials research provides findings at institutes of the Zuse Community

As the year draws to a close, expectations are growing that protection against COVID-19 will soon be available. Until this is the case for large sections of the population, the successes achieved in research and industry to protect against the virus in 2020 offer a good starting point in the fight against corona and beyond. At institutes in the Zuse community, progress have been made not only in medical but also in materials research.

These successes in materials research include innovations in the coating of surfaces. "In the wake of the pandemic, the demand for antiviral and antimicrobial surfaces has risen sharply, and we have successfully intensified our research in this area," explains Dr. Sebastian Spange, Head of Surface Technology at the Jena research institute INNOVENT. He expects to see an increasing number of products with antiviral surfaces in the future. "Our tests with model organisms show that an appropriate coating of surfaces works", emphasizes Spange. The spectrum of techniques used by INNOVENT includes flame treatment, plasma coating and the so-called Sol-Gel process, in which organic and inorganic substances can be combined in one layer at relatively low temperatures. According to Spange, materials for the coatings can be antibacterial metal compounds as well as natural substances with antiviral potential.

Nonwovens produced for mask manufacturers
In 2020, the textile expertise of numerous institutes in the Zuse community ensured that application-oriented research could prove its worth in the practical fight against pandemics. After the shortage of mask supplies in Germany at the beginning of the pandemic, textile research institutes reacted to the shortage by jumping into the breach. The Saxon Textile Research Institute (STFI), for example, converted its research facilities to the production of nonwovens to supply German and European manufacturers of particle filtering protective masks. "From March to November 2020, we supplied nonwovens to various manufacturers in order to provide the best possible support for mask production and thus help contain the pandemic. At a critical time for industry and the population, we were able to help relieve critical production capacity - an unaccustomed role for a research institute, but one we would assume again in similar situations," explains Andreas Berthel, Managing Commercial Director of STFI.

Development of reusable medical face masks
For the improvement of everyday as well as medical face masks the German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are working on this project. In cooperation with an industrial partner, they are currently developing in Denkendorf, among other things, reusable medical face masks made of high-performance precision fabric using Jacquard weaving technology. The multiple use avoids waste and possible supply bottlenecks.

There are regulations for all types of masks, now also for everyday masks. At Hohenstein, compliance with standards for masks is checked. A new European guideline defines minimum requirements for the design, performance evaluation, labelling and packaging of everyday masks. "As a testing laboratory for medical products, we test the functionality of medical masks from microbiological-hygienic and physical aspects", explains Hohenstein's Managing Director Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels. In this way, Hohenstein supports manufacturers, among other things, with technical documentation to prove the effectiveness and safety. Respiratory protection masks (FFP 1, FFP 2 and FFP 3) have been tested at the Plastics Centre (SKZ) in Würzburg since the middle of this year. Among other things, inhalation and exhalation resistance and the passage of particles are tested. In addition, SKZ itself has entered into mask research. In cooperation with a medical technology specialist, SKZ is developing an innovative mask consisting of a cleanable and sterilizable mask carrier and replaceable filter elements.

ILK tests for mouth-nose protection
The fight against Corona is won by the contributions of humans: Of researchers in laboratories, of developers and manufacturers in the Industry as well as from the citizens on the street.
Against this background, the Institute for Air and Refrigeration Technology (ILK) in Dresden has carried out investigations into the permeability of the mouth and nose protection (MNS), namely on possible impairments when breathing through the mask as well as the protective function of everyday masks. Result: Although the materials used for the mouth-nose protection are able to retain about 95 percent of the exhaled droplets, "under practical aspects and consideration of leakages" it can be assumed that about 50 percent to 70 percent of the droplets enter the room, according to the ILK. If the mask is worn below the nose only, it can even be assumed that about 90 percent of the exhaled particles will enter the room due to the large proportion of nasal breathing. This illustrates the importance of tight-fitting and correctly worn mouth and nose protection. "On the other hand, from a physical point of view there are no reasons against wearing a mask", ILK managing director Prof. Dr. Uwe Franzke emphasizes. The researchers examined the CO2 content in the air we breathe as well as the higher effort required for breathing and based this on the criterion of overcoming the pressure loss. "The investigations on pressure loss showed a small, but practically irrelevant increase," explains Franzke.

The complete ILK report "Investigations on the effect of mouth and nose protection (MNS)" is available here.

More information:
Zuse community Covid-19 face masks nonwovens

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Zuse community

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Photocredits: Hohenstein

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01.09.2020

Research Projects of the Zuse Community: Think about Recycling when Designing …

How applied research in cooperation with industry can lead to high-quality recycling solutions is explained by the Zuse community with its "Design for Recycling" series.

Artificial Turf of the Future
Textiles are much more than just clothes. The industry is a key customer for both synthetic and natural fibers. However, their textile products are often close to the consumer - this applies, for example, to the leisure industry or sports field construction, as is the case with artificial turf.

On sports fields, textiles are, so to speak, trampled underfoot, namely when playing on artificial turf. In Germany alone there are around 5,000 artificial turf pitches registered for football. But under the green stubble hides a heavy burden - for clubs and the environment. According to information from the IAKS Germany trade association, around 5 kg of granulate per square meter of artificial turf is infilled in Germany, and this figure is likely to be considerably higher in other countries. "In the case of artificial turf with a fiber length of 42 mm, only 12 mm look out of the mass of infill materials that have been applied to the surface," Dr. Ulrich Berghaus of Morton Extrusionstechnik GmbH, a leading manufacturer of artificial turf, explains. Nowadays, a new pitch is calculated to contain almost 50 percent of the old pitch - as infill material. But as a microplastic this can cause problems - alternatives have to be found. Together with the Aachen Institute for Floor Systems (TFI), Morton Extrusionstechnik is working on the artificial turf of the future, which can do without problematic infill materials.

The researchers at the TFI are now called upon to ensure that the nubs of the artificial turf will hold well in the carrier material in future, even without polyurethane and latex. "Ideally, artificial turf would be made of just one polymer," TFI project manager Dirk Hanuschik says. Because, similar to food packaging, inseparable material composites are poison for high-quality recycling. Hanuschik and his team are therefore researching with their industrial partner into an artificial turf design that does not require any polyurethane or latex for the backing of the carrier material. In a thermobonding facility, the artificial turf nubs are to be melted directly onto the base material, not glued on. Nevertheless, a durability of around 12-15 years is the goal - as with artificial turf laid today. He can test the new materials on the industrial coating plant, which is on a smaller scale at the TFI. The first production plant is scheduled to go into operation as early as the middle of next year.

"The practical project of the TFI is an excellent example of how industrial research from the Zuse community creates concrete benefits for people through sustainable recycling management. Research on 'Design for Recycling' is the focus of many of our institutes. Their close cooperation with companies and their interdisciplinary approach offer the best conditions for further innovations," explains the President of the Zuse Community, Prof. Martin Bastian.

Recycling in the Fashion Industry
Recycling is more than just a trend. In the future, fashion should increasingly include useful recycling: People in Germany buy an average of 26 kg of textiles per capita per year, including 12-15 kg of clothing. Given these large quantities, high-quality recycling is a major challenge. Improved recycling includes a circular economy that thinks about the "life after", i.e. the next or renewed product, already when designing products. A current research project of the Zuse community shows how this can work for clothing.

Beverage bottles made of the plastic PET are already ideally suited for recycling, and not only for packaging, because of their purity of type. Under the motto "From the fiber to the fiber", this is what the applied research in the joint project DiTex is using for rental linen. The fibers used come from recycled PET bottles, and the rented linen itself is to be recycled back into linen after its first life cycle.

"Rented linen is also well suited to the 'Design for Recycling' concept because its use can be precisely tracked, which provides optimum conditions for recycling," project manager Dr. Anja Gerhardts from the Hohenstein Research Institute explains. The institute from Baden-Württemberg is responsible for textile testing and product specifications in the project initiated and coordinated by the Institute for Ecological Economic Research (IÖW). For benefit rather than ownership, the partners in the alliance are developing a recyclable line of bed linen, as well as polo and business shirts. The shirts will serve as uniforms for police and rescue services.

Intelligent label stores information
The laundry is equipped with a digital tracking ID throughout the entire usage cycle. This "intelligent" label stores information such as fiber origin, material composition and composition of the textile. This enables recycling companies to sort the products better, increase the recycling share and upgrade them. Numerous washing trials are now being carried out at Hohenstein to test how well the tracking tool is performing and what the tensile strength, degree of whiteness, color quality, durability and wearing comfort of the textiles are when they are washed, spun and dried up to 200 times in commercial textile services. "In DiTex we bring users, procurers and recyclers of textiles to one table to make recyclable product design a reality", Anja Gerhardts explains.

"Practical research on fibers and textiles is one of the core competences of many of our institute, be it for industrial technical products or consumer-oriented products. Projects like DiTex show innovative solutions for design for recycling. Thanks to the interdisciplinary approach in our association, other industries can also learn from such solutions," explains Dr. Annette Treffkorn, managing director of the Zuse community.

More information:
Recycling Artificial turf PET bottles

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Zuse-Gemeinschaft

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Photo: © PERFORMANCE DAYS

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29.10.2019

SUSTAIN&INNOVATE: THE FIRST SUSTAINABILITY CONFERENCE SPECIFICALLY FOR THE FUNCTIONAL TEXTILE INDUSTRY

PERFORMANCE DAYS and SPORTSFASHION by SAZ launch their cooperation
The second day of the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS will be devoted fully to the issue of sustainability. In cooperation with the trade magazine SPORTSFASHION by SAZ, the fair will present the first conference for sustainability in the functional textile sector, entitled “sustain&innovate”.

In the world of sport, as well as in fashion, functional textiles, fabrics and fibres have become indispensable. And these areas are precisely where sustainability is such an important issue, while proving just as complex at the same time. Sustainability has yet to find a real home, although sustainability events in the textile branch do exist. PERFORMANCE DAYS, in cooperation with the trade journal SPORTSFASHION by SAZ, is now taking on the challenge to specifically inform the functional textile sector, in particular about the most important and latest steps relating to sustainability. Consequently, the two key industry players are organising the first Sustainability Congress for functional textiles on November 14th in Munich, in the EXPERT TALKS Area of PERFOMANCE DAYS in Hall C1 of Munich’s fair centre.

Key speakers for the industry’s key issue
Under the title “sustain&innovate”, the November 14th will see a full day of international speakers giving talks on important and cutting-edge topics concerning sustainability, exclusively tailored to the functional textile branch.

The program is supported by the sponsors PrimaLoft, Polortec and ISKO who also exhibit at PERFORMANCE DAYS. Visitors can expect an extensive and informative program:

Vaude managing director and sustainability specialist Antje von Dewitz will join as a keynote speaker.
Karin Ekberg’s topic is of particular interest, where she will explain the importance of the HIGG Index for production.
The Patagonia brand is considered a pioneer in terms of sustainability, making Patagonia’s Nicholas Allen’s presence at the conference of key importance, where specialist journalist, Charles Ross, will interview him.
The audience can look forward to an exciting round of discussions when sustainability expert Anna Rodewald from the GreenroomVoice agency talks to international guests about the latest developments in sustainability.
Specialist journalist Sophie Bramel will chair another interesting round of discussions entitled “Designing for Recycling” and the consideration of mono materials in the development of functional clothing.
Martin Cieslik, Head of Sales of the renowned Hohenstein Institute, answers the important question “Why Verification Matters” in his talk.
Sponsors of the event, such as PrimaLoft and Polartec, will also be presenting their sustainable concepts. Visitors can look forward to speakers from leading ingredient brands.
Ulrike Arlt, editor-in-chief of SPORTSFASHION by SAZ, will moderate the program. She will also be giving a talk on the status quo of current success in relation to sustainability within the industry.

The conference will take place in the exhibition area of PERFORMANCE DAYS. The entire EXPERT TALKS Area of Hall C1 at Munich’s fair grounds will be reserved on November 14th for this innovative and unique format.

Best of all for all visitors: Not only admission to the trade fair, but also all lectures and talks at the sustain&innovate conference are free of charge! Nevertheless, it is recommended that visitors register online in advance of their arrival in order to avoid waiting times at entrances.

This absolutely unique format is completed by a special edition of SPORTSFASHION by SAZ, reporting on the conference itself and all-important sustainable issues for exhibitors, in both the German and English language. The magazine will be available at entrances on both fair days, and can be read online on the websites www.performancedays.com and www.sazsport.de, and also sent to all subscribers.

Trade fair general manager Marco Weichert is upbeat: “As a trade fair for functional fabrics and materials, we have always been a pioneer when it comes to innovation. The topic of sustainability is not only of immense importance, it will be the driving key issue for the branch in the coming years. That is why we are particularly proud that we’ve developed a unique and new format with the sustain&innovate conference, which did not exist in the branch in such a form. This allows us to reach and inform all major decision-makers internationally in relation to the manufacturing and sale of functional textiles, from fibre manufacturers to clothing brands”.

Photo: © PERFORMANCE DAYS

More information:
Performance Days

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PERFORMANCE DAYS functional fabric fair

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30.04.2019

SUSTAINABILITY A MAJOR TOPIC AT TECHTEXTIL AND TEXPROCESS

"Sustainability at Techtextil" and "Sustainability at Texprocess" are the two topics by which these leading international trade fairs for technical textiles and non-wovens, and for the processing of textile and flexible materials, will be explicitly turning their focus for the first time onto their exhibitors' approaches to sustainability. To this will be added a broad complementary programme on this topic. Among those contributing will be major players in the industry, such as Kering, Lenzing and Zalando.

Fibres made of recycled polyester, bio-based high-tech textiles, waterconserving dyeing and finishing processes, functional and work clothing, using little or no solvents and adhesives: in the field of technical textiles, and when processing textile and flexible materials, more and more firms are adopting approaches to greater sustainability. Through "Sustainability and Techtextil" and "Sustainability at Texprocess" the leading international trade fairs, from 14 to 17 May, will be demonstrating exactly these approaches taken by their exhibitors. In addition, numerous event formats will be taking up the topic of sustainability at both fairs.

Fair guide for selected exhibitors
In the run-up to Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors at both fairs were able to submit their approaches and evidence of their work on every aspect of sustainability to the fairs' organisers. An independent, international jury of experts on sustainability assessed the submissions, in accordance with the relevance and validity of current national and international product-sustainability labels, such as currently mainly Bluesign, Cradle-to-Cradle, EU Eco Label, ISO 14001, GOTS, GRS as well as SteP by Oeko-Tex.

Overall, 47 firms were selected, including 44 exhibitors at Techtextil and three at Texprocess. Visitors who are interested will find the selected firms in their own Fair Guide, which will be available at the Fair, via filter function under "Sustainability" in the online visitor search facility, and on both fairs' apps. In addition, the exhibitors so selected will be publicizing their participation at their exhibition stands.

Members of the international jury of experts: Chairman: Max Gilgenmann, Consulting Service International Ltd. (Germany and China); Claudia Som, Empa (Switzerland); Jan Laperre, Centexbel (Belgium); Heike Illing-Günther, Textile Institute of Saxony (Sächsisches Textilinstitut e.V., Germany); Karla Magruder, Fabrikology (USA); Lauren Zahringer, SAC Social Apparel Coalition (Netherlands).

Techtextil Forum featuring theme of sustainability
Taking "Towards sustainability" as its motto, the Techtextil Forum on 14 May between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. will be providing a series of contributions devoted exclusively to sustainable textile innovations. Chaired by Braz Costa, managing director of the Portuguese technology centre CITEVE, among the topics on the programme will be: textile recycling (TWD Fibres, Velener Textil), sustainable construction with wool (Minet S.A., Romania), sustainable textile coatings (Centexbel), biopolymers (RWTH Aachen University), traceability of GMO-free cotton (Hohenstein Institute) and low-cost, bio-based carbon fibres (Jules Verne Research Institute, France).

Techtextil Innovation Award
For the first time the Techtextil Innovation Award will be presented to two firms in the category of sustainability. The winners will be announced and the awards presented on the first day of the fair during the opening ceremony. During the whole time of the fair visitors will also be able to find out about the prize-winners and their award-winning projects at the Techtextil Innovation Award Exhibition Area in Hall 4.2.

Texprocess Forum with branch of Fashionsustain Conference
Through a branch of Fashionsustain Berlin, Messe Frankfurt's conference on every aspect of sustainable textile innovations, the Texprocess Forum on the morning of the 14 May will be devoted exclusively to the theme of sustainability in the textile and fashion industries in all its aspects. The first keynote, "Sustainable innovation – a matter of survival", will come from Micke Magnusson, co-founder of the Swedish start-up We are Spindye. Next, posing the question "Is Sustainability the Key to Textile Innovations?", will come a discussion by leaders in the industry such as Clariant Plastics and Coatings, Indorama, Lenzing, Perpetual Global, Procalçado S.A., Kering und Zalando. Fashionsustain will be chaired among others by Karla Magruder, founder of Fabrikology International.

Innovation Roadshow features sustainable footwear production
Next at the Fashionsustain Conference fibre manufacturer Lenzing, knitting-machinery producer Santoni and shoe-component manufacturer Procalçado S.A. will be presenting the Innovation Roadshow, entitled "The Future of Eco-Conscious Footwear Manufacturing." The roadshow will be supported by the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network. It will feature examples of the sustainable production process of a shoe, thus demonstrating how a fundamental change to sustainability can already be a reality in the fashion and textile industries today. The panel will be chaired by Marte Hentschel, founder of Sourcebook, the B2B network for the fashion industry.

More information:
Techtextil Texprocess Sustainability

Source:

Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH

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Foto: Pixabay

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17.12.2018

PRICE WAR ON POLAND'S CLOTHING MARKET GETS TOUGHER

Online sales increase

Warsaw (GTAI) - More and more clothing and shoe companies are merging in Poland. Demand is growing, but the price pressure is increasing. Customers appreciate the quality of German brand products.
Sales of clothing and footwear in Poland are rising steadily. However, the price war is becoming increasingly fierce: off-price shops offering branded goods at low prices, online shops and outlet centers are putting pressure on retailers and lowering the average returns.
Demand will receive an additional boost at the end of the year, as clothing and shoes are popular Christmas gifts. According to a survey by the consulting firm Deloitte, Polish families want to spend an average of EUR 271 on the occasion of the 2018 season, - 6 percent more than in 2017. German branded products are highly valued for their quality.

Online sales increase

**Sales of clothing and footwear in Poland (EUR billion)**
2013	2014	2015	2016	2017
6.9	7.4	7.7	7.8	8.4

Source: Euromonitor International

The US chain TK Maxx already operates 43 off-price stores in Poland. The assortment includes various goods - from household goods to clothing - which are greatly reduced. Neinver from Spain currently operates four outlet centers under the name "Factory" in Poland. There are two in Warsaw and one each in Krakow and Poznan.
Neinver plans to use the commercial park Futura Ursus in Warsaw commercially in the future. In total, there are a good dozen outlet centers in Poland. On the site of the Galeria Rumia shopping center in the town with the same name northwest of Gdynia, the Pomerania Outlet center is planning to open at the end of 2019 with 80 shops.
The German online retailer Zalando is with its shopping club Zalando Lounge for special offers present in Poland, It has set up a logistics center in Olsztynek (Hohenstein), primarily for further expansion in Europe with this concept. Discount chains such as Biedronka and Lidl are also offering inexpensive clothing.

Sector consolidates
The growing pressure of competition and prices is leading to further consolidation among domestic companies in the sector. Various mergers are emerging. The Vistula Group will take over its competitor the men's outfitter Bytom already in 2018. The antitrust authority UOKiK has already approved the merger. From 2020 on the Group expects this to generate additional revenue of around EUR 1.9 million to EUR 2.3 million annually.
The acquisition of the apparel company Simple Creative Products S.A. (Gino Rossi Group from Slupsk) with its brand Simple for upmarket women's clothing by Monnari Trade S.A. cracked in November 2018. Simple is represented with 63 salons and Monnari with 163 stores in Poland.
OTCF, a company specializing in sportswear, owns the sports brand 4F with over 200 stores in Poland. OTCF has a strong presence abroad. Gino Rossi owns a total of around 90 shoe salons in Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Market leader LPP expands
The largest clothing company, LPP from Gdansk, continues to expand. It opened its 20th store in September 2018 with the name of its largest brand Reserved in Germany. The LPP's shops are located in the capitals of the federal states and other commercial metropolises. LPP has set up its latest store in the Zeil shopping mile in Frankfurt. According to its deputy chairman, Slawomir Loboda, LPP with Reserved generated higher revenues abroad than domestically in the second quarter of 2018.
LPP not only wants to open further stores in Western Europe, but is also aiming for other markets. In November 2018, first sales salons of the LPP brands Reserved, House, Mohito and Sinsay followed in Almaty in Kazakhstan. These brands can be purchased in Germany via online trade. The German market is LPP's fifth largest foreign market in terms of turnover.

**Revenues of the largest clothing and shoe companies in the first half of 2018 (in EUR million, change to the first half of 2017 on a Zloty basis in %)**
Name of company	Revenue	Change
LPP	844.3	18.0
CCC (shoes)	471.0	9.6
Vistula Group	82.4	14.8
Redan	63.5	-1.0
TXM	38.4	0
Monnari	24.9	5.9
Wojas (shoes)	24.4	-3.1
Bytom	22.1	12.3
Gino Rossi (shoes) ¹⁾	20.5	-8.4
CDRL (Coccodrillo chain for children's clothing) ²⁾	15.6	3.0

¹⁾ without Simple; ²⁾in Poland
Source: Company data according to daily newspaper Rzeczpospolita

CCC does not rely on the online segment only
The country's largest shoe company, the CCC Group, which is also expanding strongly abroad - including Germany - already achieved a fifth (19.8 percent) of its turnover with its online trade in the first half of 2018. The online sales were very successful: In the first three quarters of 2018 the revenues on a zloty basis rose by 59 percent compared to January to September 2017 to EUR 150.3 million.
An important platform for CCC online trading is eObuwie.pl, in which CCC holds a 75 percent stake. There are plans to place eObuwie.pl at the Warsaw Stock Exchange. eObuwie.pl intends to use the result to expand and strengthen its logistics. At its location in Zielona Gora (Grünberg), eObuwie.pl is building a modern, automated warehouse.

Online shoe trade relies on 3D models of feet
According to eObuwie.pl chairman Marcin Grzymkowski, who holds 25 percent of the shares the platform wants to use the esize.me scanner in order to motivate more Poles to buy shoes online. This scans feet and creates accurate 3D models of them. Based on these, virtual shoes will be selected that guarantee the best possible fit. It is planned to place such scanners at around at 40 locations in shopping centers. So far, according to estimates by eObuwie.pl, only 10 percent of Poles buy shoes online, as the daily Rzeczpospolita reports. In spring 2019 eObuwie.pl plans to establish an e-shop for high-quality clothing.
CCC already ordered shoes from Gino Rossi to distribute them through eObuwie.pl. Now the group wants to offer these articles also in stationary shops at home and abroad. Therefore CCC intends to acquire approximately 120,000 pairs of shoes from Gino Rossi in 2019 and approximately 180,000 pairs in 2020. After all, orders are expected to increase to around 500,000 pairs per year. Gino Rossi has factories in Slupsk and Elblag.

CCC will also acquire the license to use and sublicense the Gino Rossi brand name. The group may design its own shoe models under this brand name. Special collections are to be sold in around 200 selected CCC stationary stores among other countries in Poland and the Czech Republic. Through the agreement with CCC, Gino Rossi plans to earn an additional EUR 3.5 to 4.2 million in 2019 and EUR 8.4 to 9.3 million in 2020.

Foto: Pixabay

More information:
GTAI Polen

Source:

Beatrice Repetzki, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

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09.05.2017

BAGS PACKED FOR SPACE: TEXTILES NEEDED FOR A MISSION TO MARS

Techtextil and Texprocess present ‘Living in Space’ in cooperation with ESA and DLR
Nutrition, mobility, fashion and living: technical textiles make settlements in space possible

Beam me up, Scotty: a large amount of material has to be transported for a journey into space – and technical textiles account for a large proportion of them. Examples of the parts and products in which they are to be found will be on show at the ‘Living in Space’ exhibition during this year’s Techtextil und Texprocess (9 to 12 May 2017), which has been organised by Messe Frankfurt in cooperation with the European Space Agency (ESA) and the German Aerospace Centre (DLR). Among the exhibits to be seen are materials and technologies from Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors in a ‘Material Gallery’, architecture for space by Ben van Berkel, space-inspired fashions and an original Mars Rover.

Techtextil and Texprocess present ‘Living in Space’ in cooperation with ESA and DLR
Nutrition, mobility, fashion and living: technical textiles make settlements in space possible

“At the ‘Living in Space’ exhibition, Techtextil and Texprocess visitors can see examples of textile materials and processing technologies in an application-oriented setting. In cooperation with our partners and exhibitors, we have created an informative and entertaining area, the like of which has never been seen before at Techtextil and Texprocess”, explains Michael Jänecke, Brand Manager, Technical Textiles and Textile Processing, Messe Frankfurt. Given that technical textiles are to be found in almost every sphere of human life, the materials and processing technologies shown are oriented towards the ‘Architecture’, ‘Civilization’, ‘Clothing’ and ‘Mobility’ areas of application.

Ideal homes in space

Visitors can get an idea of how building in space could function at the ‘Architecture’ area curated by Stylepark architecture magazine. Lightweight construction and canopy specialist MDT-tex joined forces with star architect Ben van Berkel of the international UNStudio firm of architects to create a ‘Space Habitat’ especially for Techtextil. Comprising 60 individual modules, each of which is double twisted and under tension, the lightweight pavilion has an area of 40 square metres and consists of specially designed aluminium profiles covered with PTFE sheets. MDT-tex designed the fabric especially for the pavilion in an extremely light grammage without sacrificing its high-temperature resistance and technical properties.

Ultra-lightweight materials play a leading role in space travel because the lighter the space capsule’s load, the cheaper the transport. Reclining in comfortable seats, visitors to the Space Habitat can also travel to Mars using virtual-realist glasses and, at the same time, find out more about technical textiles and their processing in space.

Hightech-Fashion in orbit

No one likes to be too hot or too cold. Space-wear should not only protect the wearer from extreme temperatures but also regulate their body temperature, drain off moisture and be durable and easy to clean. All the better, then, if it also looks good, as shown by the designs in the ‘Clothing’ segment of the exhibition. The ESMOD Fashion School from Berlin presents outfits made by students within the framework of the ‘Couture in Orbit’ project (2015/2016), which was organised by ESA and the London Science Museum. Additionally, the POLI.design centre of the Politecnico di Milano (Milan University) presents outfits from the followup project, ‘Fashion in Orbit’ under the scientific supervision of Annalisa Dominoni and the technical supervision of Benedetto Quaquaro in cooperation with ESA and garment manufacturer Colmar.

The Hohenstein Textile Institutes present two models from the Spacetex research project, within the framework of which astronaut Alexander Gerst tested the interaction of body, apparel and climate under conditions of weightlessness during the ‘Blue Dot’ mission. In this connection, the model, ‘Nostalgia’ by Linda Pfanzler (Lower Rhine University) reminds the wearer of the earth with an integrated library of fragrances. The suits of the ‘Dynamic Space’ collection by Rachel Kowalski (Pforzheim University) contain electrodes that stimulate important muscle groups under conditions of weightlessness. The outfits by Leyla Yalcin and Sena Isikal (AMD Düsseldorf) come from the ‘Lift off’ collection created in cooperation with Bremen-based silver-yarn manufacturer Statex. They include a sleeping bag for astronauts made from silver-coated textiles, which can also be used as an overall and protects the wearer from electro-magnetic radiation. Thanks to the silver threads, another garment, a raincoat reflects light and stores the wearer’s body heat.

Material Gallery: fibers for space

In addition to the exhibits at the special exhibition, around 40 Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors offer ideas for fibre-based materials and processing technology suitable for use in space in a ‘Material Gallery’. For the ‘Civilization’ segment, they include spacer fabrics for growing vegetables, for ‘Mobility’ a carbon yarn, which was used to make a fairing for the solid-fuel booster rocket of the Ariane 6. The Material Gallery also shows fibre-composite structures made of carbon fibres, such as a robot arm, a whole-body suit that transmits the wearer’s movements to a 3D model in real-time, functional apparel textiles with flame-retardant, anti-bacterial and temperature-regulating properties, and membrane systems for ventilating aircraft.

Exhibits from ESA, DLR and Speyer Museum of Technology, including an original Mars Rover and space suits, make the exhibition an extraordinary experience. The exhibits are supplemented by impulse lectures by ESA experts for technology transfer throughout the fair.