From the Sector

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded
It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

What does the furniture market look like and what potential composites offer for the furniture of today and tomorrow? The AZL is investigating this question together with companies from the composite and furniture industry. The result will be an overview of the current market and the materials used to date as well as an outlook on future mass applications for fiber-reinforced plastics (FRP). The study is open to interested companies and starts with a kick-off meeting at Composites Europe in Stuttgart on November 7th, 2018.

Furniture, its design and function have undergone major changes in recent decades: From robust lifelong companions to trend-setting models, from handmade one-of-a-kind pieces to mass products, from storage objects to multi-functional and “smart” all-rounders. This goes along with an increased diversity in terms of design and the materials used – and high potential for composites that offer additional design freedom and exceptional mechanical properties at low weight.

Study provides overview of furniture market and unique selling points of composites
In order to systematically identify the potential of fiber-reinforced composites and to use them in future furniture applications, the AZL is starting a study together with companies from the furniture and composite industry. Within four and a half months the market for furniture will be segmented, design and technology trends will be identified and the technical requirements for furniture and furniture components will be broken down to identify applications with high potential for composites. The overall goal is to understand the selection process and needs of the furniture designer in order to bring composites to the market as a targeted alternative to conventional materials.

Virginia Bozsak, Technical Manager Composites at ARKEMA Innovative Chemistry is participating in the study: “The ever-growing population number requires environmentally friendly material and a solution for the end of life treatment to recollect and reuse materials. For fast changing markets such as the furniture market, these materials also need to offer an enormous freedom of design. Arkema already answers this demand with the only liquid thermoplastic resin Elium® used as a thermoset resin to produce composite structural or aesthetical parts. With the joint study, we aim to identify specific applications in the furniture market to make use of material which is not limiting creativity or design specifications but rather enabling the future to be revolutionized.”

Twelve companies from eight different countries will receive a JEC Innovation Award at JEC Asia 2018. Asia-Pacific is an innovative region that sets the tone for all other regions of the globe. Once again, the JEC Innovation Awards highlight how composites bring solutions considering the new challenges in terms of efficiency, sustainability and life-cycle analysis.

This year, JEC Group awards innovations in the following categories: aerospace (structural and tooling), automotive, commercial vehicles, e-mobility, marine, railway, sports & leisure, infrastructure & civil engineering, industrial equipment, sustainability and additive manufacturing.

The ceremony will take place on Thursday November 15, 2018 at the COEX Center of Seoul (South Korea). Ida DAUSSY (Seo Hye-na), will host the ceremony in front of officials, manufacturers, scientists and composites professionals.

Category: AEROSPACE – STRUCTURAL
Winner: CSIR National Aerospace Laboratories (India)

Most of the composite structures for aircraft are made of carbon-epoxy composites, which can withstand a maximum service temperature of 130°C. As a consequence, carbon-epoxy materials cannot be used in hot zones like engine vicinity areas. The Aeronautical Development Agency (ADA) and CSIR-NAL took up the challenge of developing high temperature resistant composites for use in hot zones of light combat aircraft, which would result in significant weight and cost savings, as well as a considerable reduction in the meantime between failures (MTBF) due to thermal ageing.

The first task was to choose a material system with a service temperature of about ~ 200°C. During the material selection process, it was found that BMI resins are a relatively young class of thermosetting polymers. Hence, a carbon-BMI prepreg was selected due to a number of unique features including excellent physical property retention at elevated temperatures and in wet environments.

It was realized that weight savings and performance can be maximized using co-curing technology. This results in a large reduction of fabrication cycle times, costs and weight. Co-cured structures have fewer fasteners, which results in shorter assembly cycle times and also reduces sealing issues.

A prototype engine bay door assembly was built and tested at 180°C for flight certification. The engine bay door consists of an inner skin and co-cured outer skin assembly with eight transverse stiffeners. The stiffeners were designed with ‘J’ sections. The door size was 1.5 m length, 1 m width and 0.4 m overall depth. The co-cured door was developed using autoclave moulding. Two doors were installed in prototype aircraft and successfully flown.

Suzhou, China, October 18, 2018 – The years of intensive research and development in the field of texturing, which Oerlikon Barmag is doing at the site in China, bears further fruits. On October 12, 2018, the new R&D-Center was officially inaugurated at the Suzhou site. Around 80 invited guests took part in the inauguration ceremony. The ceremonial opening was done by the government representatives of the city of Suzhou and the top management level of Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment.

The award is a tribute to the research and development work done so far in the field of texturing machines. For example, Oerlikon holds 34 patents granted, several more are currently in the grant stage. The award also reflects the reorientation in the area of texturing. Meanwhile, the international technology team has grown to a size of over 60 highly qualified employees. This supports the strong focus on innovation and research. In addition to continuous improvement measures on existing machines, various new components and machine concepts are planned which will soon be opened to the market.

Innovation is indispensable especially in the field of texturing machines, since the technology has hardly changed in the last few decades. “Only with new approaches we can offer our customers the technological advantage with which they can be successful. The focus of the innovations is on the topics of automation, digitalization, energy saving and the improvement of process quality”, said Georg Stausberg, CEO Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment.

In addition to the official recognition of the achievements, Oerlikon China Technology Ltd. is also provided with state funding. “This financial support is partly invested in the most modern equipment, but also in a highly qualified training of our employees. This ensures that we can continue to offer high quality and customer benefits”, said Joachim Diezl, General Manager of the site in Suzhou.

A new important partnership marks the path of Itema towards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim producers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainable-oriented Itema technologies, iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Vietnam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the latest Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, future-oriented approach.

Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable innovation, as one of the first denim producers able to successfully turn - even the weaving production - green. A partnership that is planned to be showcased in some of the most important textiles exhibitions worldwide focusing on Asian and denim markets. A path that starts with KingpinsShow, Amsterdam (October 24-25) where the Chinese denim producer will put into the spotlight this brand-new solution aimed at further increasing the eco-driven approach of the company; an important appointment is also in the Itema calendar: the ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 exhibition, Shanghai (October 15-19) where the Italian company showcased the important green step-forward in denim weaving processes and the full range of its innovations.

iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving
This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, isable to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficiency, cost reduction and energy saving.

Just consider that the weaver will gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 per year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw materials - will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers.

Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features of the Itema R95002denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding user-friendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving.

A joint eco-driven path
Itema, understanding very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a revolutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric.

This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main denim producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-theart denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018.
What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products high quality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sustainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain.

Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manufacturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management. Prosperity’s denim production is based on the employment of best quality yarns available on the market, while still targeting the most sustainable sources, from BCI to organic, recycled cotton, and from Tencel™ Lyocell to Sustans™, in 2017, more than 20 million yards fabric sales from Prosperity are with sustainable fibers inside.
The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denims, with less water and energy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9% and 5.4% respectively.

In this continuous process of improvement and contribution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role the recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cutting-edge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company.
Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric processing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers.

• Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference - Milan, October 22-24, 2018
• The theme of the 2018 conference is United by Action: Accelerating Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion.

The conference offers an opportunity to connect with industry pioneers and learn about cutting edge solutions and innovations in textile and apparel sustainability. As a result, C.L.A.S.S., headquartered in Milan, the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication, will be on hand to support this year’s theme.

Many of the materials the C.L.A.S.S. team will showcase speak to circular economy such as Re.VerSo™, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Iluna Group and TINTEX Textiles and many others that use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

During Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference, Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO and Founder and her team will have a dedicated space to engage attendees in an open discussion regarding the importance of fashion business strategies. The experience in the space, that will reflect an New York event created for C.L.A.S.S. by Ginger Design, will start with the vision of a film by Cristina Picchi that represents harmony between the various phases of the textile process and the cycles of natural elements. Visitors will walk through a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt to inspire creativity and explore the limitless possibilities using innovative smart materials.

“We are always proud to have a presence at international events including this year’s Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference. It is a great way for us to share our expertise regarding responsible innovation and new business model strategies. As C.L.A.S.S. is headquartered in Milan, we are proud that they selected our city for this year’s conference. Being held in Milan provides a chance for us to support Textile Exchange regarding smart material innovation, many of them produced in Italy.” said Bettoni.

Just off their return from Première Vision in Paris, Bettoni who is also the Sustainability Consultant for Smart Creation, recognizes the importance for her company to have a strong international presence to spread C.L.A.S.S.’ message to a global audience regarding responsible creation. 

As C.L.A.S.S. enters their second decade of business, they have expanded their business activities to include e-commerce that provides an opportunity for fashion start-up to purchase up to a maximum of 50, an initiative launched to support fashion start-ups. And a new division, C.L.A.S.S. Education, an initiative Bettoni co-founded with James Mendolia, also a Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology. Mendolia has been visiting universities to speak to fashion design, business, textiles and production students in Europe, Asia and North America to encourage attendees to infuse a new way of design thinking and move from a linear to a circular business model.   

• Huntsman Textile Effects and The Chemours Company FC, LLC (‘Chemours’) have agreed to expand their long-term alliance in the area of durable water repellence (DWR).

Singapore – By combining the strengths of both companies in innovation, technical support and marketing, the expanded co-operation unlocks the full potential of the alliance to develop and deliver new, sustainable DWR solutions and chemistry.  This historical alliance that was established in the early 1990s has been at the forefront of delivering state-of-the-art solutions to the textile industry for durable water repellent effects. In addition to
fluorinated solutions, the expanded alliance will now be able to offer non-fluorinated alternatives as well. The alliance will cover different aspects of the value chain including research, marketing, technical support and manufacturing.

“Strengthening the partnership between Huntsman Textile Effects and Chemours unlocks the full potential of both companies to shape technology and product offerings in sustainable durable water repellency. Our cooperation, which has stood the test of time, has clearly demonstrated that strong environmental credentials and performance can co-exist in equal measure. We are excited to move forward with a broader alliance as we strengthen our position as the industry leader in DWR textile solutions,” said Jay Naidu, Vice President, Strategic Marketing and Planning, Huntsman Textile Effects.

“Chemours is excited to expand our partnership with Huntsman Textile Effects. This partnership reinforces our commitment to take a leadership role in the innovation and development of more sustainable and high performing products that address the rapidly evolving needs of the textile industry and the consumers that use these products,” said Jesal Chopra, Vice President, Chemours Fluoropolymers.

Together, Huntsman Textile Effects and Chemours have worked to lead the textile industry’s transition  from long-chain water repellent products to more environmentally friendly short-chain chemistry and, more recently, non-fluorinated chemistry. The collaboration has resulted in new, market-leading DWR solutions that deliver on performance and sustainability. Chemours introduced Teflon EcoElite™ with Zelan™ R3 technology in 2015, a renewably sourced, non-fluorinated water repellent finish. Containing 60% plant-based materials* and complying with all key industry standards, Zelan™ R3 repellent offers excellent water repellency and durability while preserving fabric breathability. It meets or exceeds performance levels possible with fluorinated technologies. Teflon™ Eco Dry with Zelan™ R2 PLUS technology, which compliments Teflon EcoElite™, was recently introduced. Zelan™ R2 PLUS contains 30% renewably sourced plant-based raw materials* and is focused on delivering a high level of durable water repellency for all substrates.

In 2017, Huntsman Textile Effects introduced PHOBOTEX® RSY non-fluorinated durable water repellent, which was developed to specifically meet extreme protection, comfort and durability requirements for both synthetic and cellulosic fibers, delivering an enhanced environmental profile for brands. PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent raises the bar in performance on synthetics, allowing brands to offer high-performance weather protection with an assurance of eco-friendly sustainability. Providing effective protection in extreme environments together with breathable comfort, PHOBOTEX® RSY durable water repellent repulses rain, sleet, and snow, ideal for highperformance outerwear fabrics.

Both companies bring a rich and established heritage firmly centered on research and innovation. Through their expanded alliance, joint research and development efforts in DWR enable Huntsman and Chemours to stay at the forefront of industry trends and regulatory changes for a more sustainable textile industry.

• For the first time @Interfilière New York edition, the award winning Interfeel’Award Sustainability ILUNA Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
• Interfilière New York, 17th–18th October 2018, booth 113

In line with the powerful global trend towards smarter fashion solutions, Iluna Group launches its Embroidery Division. Specialists in lace since 1985, the new Embroidery Division offers a complete and innovative product match in line with the modern expectations of brands and retailers. Staying true to Iluna’s DNA, the introduction of emb roidery and guipure are all produced with only recycled materials.

In addition to the launch of the Embroidery Division, this season novelties include:

1. Since  September  2018,  Iluna  Group’s  products with the right percentage of transformed content are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.

2. Of  major  interest  today,  the  launch  of eco - velvet lace  entirely made  of  sustainable  materials  including ROICA Eco - Smart™  Family, Tencel™ Lyocell and  Q - Nova® .

3. Within  the Black  Label  collection,  the  Ultralight series  is  enriched  with  new  multicolor geometric  and floral galloons and allovers: here Iluna changes the color of  the  thread  not  only  in  the background,  but  also  in  the design,  the  same  article  reinvents  itself  in a  variety  of great visual impact.

4. Green   Label   collection, the   Iluna   dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the  planet  and  people, able  to deliver  innovation,  beauty and quality, at 360°. In addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled materials,  including  the  stretch  thanks  to the introduction of the  unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA Eco - Smart™ Family.

5. ILUNA has  strategically  included  in  all  their  stretch  laces  only ROICA Eco- Smart™  Family of sustainable yarns since some time.

6. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification  that  clarifies  and  communicates  the  company’s  sustainable  production  commitment. In
addition to this, all products are Oeko - Tex 100 certified.

7. ILUNA has  created  the  new e- shop offering  its  exclusive  materials  to  smaller companies   looking   for   added   values   as: creativity,   innovation,   made   in   Italy   and responsibility.

8. The  whole  collection  is  also  visible online at  its  web  site,  previous  registration, and   orders   can   be   done   directly   online always aiming to customers care.

Nevertheless, for ILUNA smart innovation is not   just   a   project even,   its   space at Interfilière will  be  the stage  where visitors will have  the  opportunity  to  discover the new  collection and to also  to experience and  touch latest boundaries  of  lace smart innovations.

Today ILUNA represents the largest European lace producer, and thanks to its journey toward the most contemporary  way  to  innovate  that  includes  responsibility,  has  also  become  a  reference  point  in  the
international market for a lace offer that is beautiful, innovative and responsible at the same time.  An  alchemy  of  design  and  sustainable  innovation, the  only  eco-fashion  line  that  includes  lace  and stockings,  capable  of  combining  ethics  and  high  quality  standards  with  a  fashion  image  of  bright  and deep colors.

Ted Baker, the global lifestyle brand, announces that on October 4th 2018 it entered into a Global product licensing agreement with Timex Group (“Timex”). The new agreement will allow Ted Baker to underpin its own global plans with a unique product offering in watches that fully compliments its apparel and accessory collections.

Commenting, Ray Kelvin CBE, Founder and Chief Executive of Ted Baker, said:
“This is an exciting opportunity for Ted Baker to drive accelerated growth in our watch business by leveraging the Timex Group global footprint and infrastructure, in line with our strategy to further develop Ted Baker as a global lifestyle brand.”

Commenting, Tobias Reiss Schmidt, President and Chief Executive Officer of Timex Group, said:
“We are delighted to bring Timex Groups expertise and long history as an authentic watchmaker to Ted Baker and look forward to producing exciting and innovative timepieces for their consumers”. Timex Group will launch the collections Internationally through premium retail partners and its global distributor network in summer 2019.

Pedex GmbH, the Wald Michelbach based Perlon Group company was named as a finalist of the ‘Großer Preis des Mittelstandes 2018’ (award for small and medium sized companies) at the gala dinner on 15th September 2018. Together with 21 other finalists from the four competing regions Baden Wurtemberg, Bavaria, Hesse and Thuringia came out on top against 2436 nominated businesses.

The motto for this year’s competition -‘Building for the future’ – is the foundation of the unity within our society.
On 24th May, the Oskar-Patzelt-Stiftung, the founder of this award for small and medium sized companies asked for nominations of excellent medium sized companies for the competition, (nominations cannot come from the company itself.) Only 1 in every 1000 German companies make it onto the list of nominations – this year Pedex GmbH made it! The prize winners meet 12 regional juries and a final jury. The focus of the jury (made up of representatives from business and education) is on the company as a whole and its multifaceted role within society. To aid evaluation, the jury asked about the establishment and safeguarding of jobs and apprenticeships, innovation and modernisation, involvement in the local area as well as service and proximity to customers.

Germany’s most sought after business accolade.
In 2018, more than 7400 institutions from the 16 counties (12 competing regions) throughout Germany nominated a total of 4,917 small and medium sized companies as well as banks and local authorities for the competition, from which a short list of 742 was selected. No other business award in Germany carries such weight (and has now for more than two decades) as the one that the Leipzig based Oskar-Patzelt-Stiftung has been awarding since 1994. The prize doesn’t offer any monetary reward. For the businesses involved, it’s simply about honour, public recognition and approval of their performance, without financial incentive.