Aus der Branche

Modeschulen und Branchenexperten diskutieren über den Wandel der Industrie und die Auswirkungen
auf Ausbildungsprogramme

Lectra, weltweit führend in integrierten Lösungen, die speziell ausgerichtet sind auf die Stoff-, Leder-,
Textil- und Verbundwerkstoffindustrie, hat seine Partner aus dem Ausbildungsbereich zum
8. Ausbildungskongress auf dem Firmengelände in Bordeaux-Cestas begrüßt. Im Fokus standen die
Megatrends der Modebranche, die sowohl die Industrie als auch ihre Berufe prägen – vom
Design bis zur Produktion. An dem halbjährlichen Treffen nahmen mehr als fünfzig
Branchenexperten sowie Lehrkräfte aus Modeschulen weltweit teil – darunter Deutschland, Kanada, China,
USA, Frankreich, Hongkong, Italien, Niederlande, Polen, Großbritannien, Schweiz und Schweden.

Unternehmen gehen die ersten Schritte Richtung Industrie 4.0, setzen 3D-Lösungen ein und entwerfen ihre
Kollektionen digital und dank Product Lifecycle Management-Lösungen effizienter – Modeberufe entwickeln
sich entsprechend mit. Auf Lectras Kongress diskutierten Modeschulen über die veränderten Rollen von
Designern und Modellmachern, und welche neuen Elemente in Ausbildungsprogramme integriert werden
müssen. „Es ist fundamental, Innovationsexperten der Branche und Modeschulen zusammenzubringen, da
Schüler die Entwicklung der Branche vorantreiben werden“, erklärt Pascal Denizart, Geschäftsführer des
European Centre for Innovative Textile (CETI).

Die Zusammenarbeit mit Modeschulen steht im Zentrum von Lectras Ausbildungsprogramm, um Kurse zu
entwickeln, die den Bedürfnissen der Modeunternehmen entsprechen. Auf dem Kongress zeigte Lectra die
neuesten Fortschritte in der Modeentwicklung und sprach über die Erfahrung in der Zusammenarbeit von
Partnerschulen und Modemarken. Die Teilnehmer blickten zurück auf Wettbewerbe, die Lectra in Italien mit
Missoni, Balenciaga und Armani, in China mit Peacebird und in den Vereinigten Staaten mit JC Penney
organisiert hat.

In Großbritannien richtete Lectra gemeinsam mit COS (H&M-Konzern) und der Arts University Bournemouth
(AUB) einen Wettbewerb zum abfalllosen Design einer Kollektion aus. „Der Prozess lief vollständig digital
ab – vom Design bis zum Erstellen eines virtuellen 3D-Prototypen. Unsere Schüler lernen, jeden
Entwicklungsschritt zu optimieren“, berichtete Penny Norman, Dozent an der AUB. „Die Zusammenarbeit
zwischen AUB, COS und Lectra ist genau die Art von Projekt, die unsere Schüler enorm motiviert.
Anwendungsbeispiele der Lösungen Kaledo, Modaris und Diamino, gemeinsam entwickelt mit führenden
Modemarken und Lectra, vermitteln den Studenten die notwenigen Fähigkeiten für den Arbeitsmarkt.”

Li Min, Vize-Dekan der Fakultät für Mode und Design an der Donghua Universität in Shanghai sprach über
das von Lectra organisierte Treffen von chinesischen Unternehmen, Experten und Vertretern der größten
Modeschulen in China. „Ein Austausch über die Auswirkungen der Initiative ‚Made in China 2025’ bereitet
unsere Schüler besser auf ihre zukünftigen Berufe vor, in denen Digitalisierung und Automatisierung eine
viel zentralere Rolle spielen werden als heute“, sagt Li Min.

„Die Modebranche entwickelt sich so schnell, dass der Austausch über Erkenntnisse und Best Practices mit
Experten und anderen Modeschulen unerlässlich ist, um zu gewährleisten, dass unsere Studenten über die
beste Ausbildung und die besten Technologie-Werkzeuge verfügen“, sagt Dr. Trevor J. Little, Dozent für
Textilien und Bekleidung, Technologie und Management am College of Textiles der New Yorker State
University.

„Lectras 8. Ausbildungskongress unterstreicht das Engagement des Unternehmens mit unseren
Partnerschulen“, sagt Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer bei Lectra.
„Wir teilen nicht nur unsere Marktanalysen und Erfahrungen zur Digitalisierung des Ökosystems oder zeigen,
wie die Prinzipien der Industrie 4.0 in der Modebranche umgesetzt aussehen, sondern sprechen auch über
die kundenindividuelle Massenproduktion und die Rolle von PLM. Während für unsere Kunden das bereits
wichtige Themen sind, nähern sich viele Modeschulen ihnen erst jetzt. Mit Blick auf die Zukunft unterstützt
Lectra seine Kunden und Modeschulen auf ihrem Weg.“

• Amazon, EasySize, Evo Pricing and Lectra explored diverse uses for customer data during a round table event organized by the ESCP Europe - Lectra ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair Paris

Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials, the French business school ESCP Europe and their joint ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair examined the multiple ways the fashion industry’s ecosystem can use customer data, during a recent round table event at the start of the fifth Fashion Tech Week in Paris.

Elise Beuriot, senior category leader, EU Luggage, Amazon, Olivier Dancot, VP of data, Lectra, Fabrizio Fantini, founder and CEO, Evo Pricing, and Gulnaz Khusainova, founder and CEO, Easysize, agreed straight away on one key point: the analysis of customer data lends itself to limitless applications along the entire fashion value chain. Its impact is immense, whether in terms of customer satisfaction, competitiveness, revenues or waste limitation.

As early as the design phase, a wealth of data offers many sources of inspiration for stylists. For teams in charge of collections, “complex models allow the analysis of data like online traffic and purchase history in order to design and offer the products that consumers expect, which is a priority for a company obsessed by the customer, like Amazon,” stated Elise Beuriot. For sales, “decisions based on data trigger millions of orders. The impact on the inventory is enormous,” she added.

“Fashion is an industry where unsold items generate a lot of waste. Algorithms and big data analysis can reduce left-overs by anticipating demand several weeks ahead in order to optimize the price and replenishment,” observed Fabrizio Fantini. “Fashion companies who exploit data to inform their decisions become more efficient. They are better armed to protect their margins, but can also sell for less, and potentially reach a larger number of consumers.”

Other IT models aggregate customer data in real time ‘to determine, among hundreds of factors, those which have the biggest influence on buying decisions. Value doesn’t necessarily lie in the volume of data but in the depth of the analyses,’ claimed Gulnaz Khusainova. Easysize is careful that collected data is anonymous, she underlined, because ‘consumers need to keep control of their data, and know how it is used’.
For editors of software dedicated to fashion businesses, and suppliers of cutting machines designed for the clothing industry, “analyzing usage data from our solutions enables the offer to evolve, making each step in the value chain more efficient and perfectly adapted to the needs of the brands, retailers and manufacturers. What is at stake is better quality products, placed on the market as quickly as possible and at a reduced cost,” explained Olivier Dancot.

“It is easy to collect data, but difficult to extract actionable information. Everything hinges on data analysis,” concluded Céline Abecassis-Moedas, professor and co-scientific director of the ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair and moderator of the round table. “Due to its emotional dimension—from the stylist’s inspiration to the consumer’s desire to buy—fashion is not an industry like others. However, all the components that make up its ecosystem can truly benefit from the judicious exploitation of customer data. Examples discussed this evening illustrate the diversity of what is possible.

Ismaning/Paris – Die französische Allianz für die Industrie der Zukunft AIF hat Lectra als Vorzeigeunternehmen der „Industrie du Future“ für vorbildlichen Einsatz und Innovation ausgezeichnet. Diese Auszeichnung wird Unternehmen verliehen, die das Potenzial der Digitalisierung nutzen und wegweisenden Projekte in der Produktion umsetzten. Die von Frankreich ausgerufene „Industrie der Zukunft“ ist ein Pendant zur deutschen Industrie 4.0.

Mit diesem Preis würdigt die AIF Lectras Wettbewerbsfähigkeit hinsichtlich Kosten, Qualität und Lieferzeiten, die das Unternehmen durch die Lean-Methodik und die Produktgestaltung erlangt. Zudem wurde Lectra für die neu geschaffenen Dienstleistungen, wie Smart Services und die vorrausschauende Wartung, ausgezeichnet, die auf dem guten Verständnis vom Einsatz der Technologie-Lösungen beim Kunden basieren.

Seit 2013 hat Lectra 86 Millionen Euro in Forschung und Entwicklung investiert, 9,4 Prozent des Umsatzes. Mit diesen Investitionen hat das Unternehmen sowohl seine Technologien weiterentwickelt, als auch die Mitarbeiterzahl erhöht und damit seine Marktposition in allen Regionen ausgebaut. Lectra hat zehn Jahre Erfahrung im industriellen Internet der Dinge bei Zuschnitt-Technologien, bei Software-Lösungen  und beim Automatisieren und Optimieren von Design- und Produktentwicklung. Damit unterstützt das Unternehmen seine Kunden auf dem Weg in die Industrie 4.0.

2005 stand Lectra unter dem Druck, die Produktion nach China zu verlagern. Nach eingehender Analyse – Transportkosten für den europäischen Markt, Verlust von qualifizierten Arbeitskräften und Unsicherheit bei Patentrechten und Qualität – entschied sich Lectra, die Produktion in Frankreich zu belassen. Die Voraussetzung für die heimische Produktion war ein Industrieprojekt mit weitreichenden Innovationen, Modernisierungen, höherem Kundennutzen und Produktivitätssteigerungen.

Basis des Projekts war eine höhere Produktivität durch verbesserte Arbeitsbedingungen, die das Unternehmen mit dem Ansatz der Lean-Methodik umsetzte. Produktdesign und Fertigung wurden eng miteinander verwoben und arbeiten seitdem gemeinsam an neuen Produkten. Weiter lag der Fokus auf der Entwicklung modularer Lösungen, die flexibel auf die Bedürfnisse der Kunden zugeschnitten sind. Lectras Werk hat seine Produktivitätsrate in drei Jahren um 18 Prozentpunkte gesteigert und sie bis heute auf 89 Prozent gehalten. Die Kosten wurden um 25 Prozent gesenkt und Qualität und Dienstleistungen verbessert.

• Lectra contributes to Faurecia Seating Business Group Industry 4.0 readiness and “digital enterprise” transformation initiative

Paris, September 26, 2017 – Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials, is pleased to announce the renewal of its partnership with Faurecia through the signing of a global agreement for its Seating Business Group.

The cutting process for the production of seat covers, headrests and interiors is an increasingly strategic part of Faurecia’s Seating activity. Faurecia Seating supplies vehicle complete seats, frames, mechanisms and trim covers to major carmakers worldwide, whose manufacturing processes are gradually evolving toward Industry 4.0.

Faurecia Seating aims to double the production of its existing manufacturing facilities by reinforcing operations with advanced manufacturing technologies. The company’s extended partnership with Lectra entails focusing on operational excellence initiatives across its automotive seating division.

Standardization of the Vector® fabric-cutting solution—endowed with preventive and predictive maintenance capabilities and the highest-performance cutting system available on the market to date—will be instrumental to the implementation of these initiatives throughout the division’s fabric cutting facilities. Faurecia currently has more than 60 Vector fabric cutting solutions in production worldwide.

“More than ever, we face major challenges in terms of flexibility, agility and productivity—producing more while reducing costs,” observes Hagen Wiesner, Executive Vice President, Faurecia Seating. “Our cutting processes have become strategic in reaching these goals. Faurecia’s ‘digital enterprise’ project aims to achieve operational excellence in virtually every aspect of our organization. Together with Lectra, we will make this a reality in the cutting room, with smart automation and predictive maintenance”.

“Given the profound transformations gripping manufacturing, helping our customers ready their operations for the Fourth Industrial Revolution has become without question our core mission,” remarks Daniel Harari, Lectra Chairman and CEO. “Faurecia is among the automotive suppliers at the forefront of this movement. Digital technologies and industry expertise are the business enablers that will allow manufacturers to connect inside and outside the value chain in the near future.”

Based in Porto, Portugal, Rodrigo Siza will focus on nurturing new regional collaborations to benefit the needs of Lectra’s customers, and faciliate their success in the Industry 4.0 era. Rodrigo will rely on Lectra’s highly experienced teams located in the region.
“Rodrigo has very effectively established long-term partnerships with our fashion and apparel, automotive and furniture customers in Portugal. He has helped our customers to emerge stronger from the world crisis which heavily impacted them. After 10 successful years as head of Lectra Portgual, Rodrigo is now also in charge of meeting the expectations of our Spanish customers,” stated Daniel Harari, Lectra Chairman and CEO.

Players in the region are witnessing a strong dynamic, notably fashion brands in Spain and fashion and automotive industrialists with heightened added-value in Portugal. With the recent announcement of a new strategy to focus on Industry 4.0, Lectra is in a strong position to support these businesses in the digitalization of their processes.
For industries faced with more demanding consumers and ever-shorter product development and manufacturing cycles, integrating all steps along the extended supply chain, from design to cutting, is now a top priority. This is particularly apparent in Spain and Portugal, two countries positioned, in their own way, at the heart of Europe’s fashion and automotive industries.
Rodrigo started his career at Tradetex, a trading company of textiles for clothing, as a textile designer. From 1991 to 1999, he was an associate of V-Sistemas Informatica, specialized in the development and distribution of technical solutions for the textile industry. In 2000, he joined Lectra Portugal as a design and merchandising manager, and then evolved into the position of international consultant in 2004. He left Lectra in 2005 to take the position of Sales Director of RPB Têxteis e Vestuario, a company that makes clothes, before returning to Lectra in 2007 to take over the management of the Portuguese subsidiary. Rodrigo has a masters in marketing from Minho University and a degree in design and communication from Porto University, both located in Portugal.

Lectra has leveraged more than 10 years of experience in connected manufacturing to offer Versalis®, an innovative digital solution designed to cut leather without compromise on quality. Featuring a powerful automatic nesting system for overall improvements in efficiency, the fully automated solution enables automotive leather suppliers to cut costs, improve productivity and minimize waste while also establishing a pathway to value-added Industry 4.0 processes.

Currently, almost 90% of leather used for automotive applications is cut using manual die presses, which require designers to build a physical prototype and finalize the design through trial and error. Lectra offers a fully digitalized leather solution from prototyping to cut parts—when used in combination with Lectra’s 3D prototyping and pattern-making software, Versalis digital leather cutting solution enables a 12-16 week reduction in development and launch cycles for vehicle seating models.
During the leather-cutting phase, the latest release of Versalis LeatherSuite allows automotive leather suppliers to achieve up to 15% greater productivity. Lectra’s end-to-end automotive leather offering furthermore guarantees optimal uptime through an extensive worldwide support network of field engineers and technical experts.
"Lectra focuses on a consultative approach that allows it to fully understand the customer’s needs before building a solution comprising software, hardware, consulting, training, and after-sales support,” said Frost & Sullivan Industry Analyst Kamalesh Mohanarangam. "Lectra’s equipment is fitted with more than 200 sensors that predict failure and immediately report issues to its call centres. This product feature and service has resulted in 98% uptime and very fast mean time to repair."

Although digital leather cutting solutions are an investment, leather cutters and Tier-1 suppliers have begun to recognize the value of these products. On average, Lectra’s solutions help customers achieve up to 7% savings on leather compared to manual die-press methods by minimizing human error and variability in the cutting room. A benchmark test of leather trim cutting for door panels demonstrated a 3.5% gain in material made possible by Versalis’ superior nesting capabilities compared to the customer’s yield using manual nesting with die press machines, representing potential savings of €9 million per year.
Versalis is the fruit of significant R&D investment for the company, which has always made re-investment of capital a priority. As part of a transformational plan, Lectra spent more than €50 million in investments between 2011 and 2015. With Lectra’s new strategy focusing on supporting their customers’ transition to Industry 4.0 standards, Lectra will increase the share of revenues dedicated to R&D to 10% for the period from 2017 to 2019, representing a rise of about 50% between 2016 and 2019.

Over three years, this new Chair aims to help the fashion industry’s eco-system—from textile design to clothing sales—transform challenges coming from new ways of living and consuming into economic opportunities.
“How to find and develop sustainable materials which will open up new markets for companies in the sector? Which technologies to invent to make the most of these new materials? How to organize the factory of the future to meet new consumer expectations, such as customization? It’s an entire economy that we aim to develop around emerging industries,” explains Jean-Pierre Mocho, the founder of JPS Conseil and former President of the French federation for women’s ready-to-wear. “There are many opportunities to seize, on condition that all the players, both old and new, work together.”
To help textile and apparel companies to innovate, the Chair will combine knowledge sharing with open innovation. In particular, a technical training facility will adapt and pass on material-related savoir-faire. “This Chair will help us to better understand the changes that are necessary in the sector, to anticipate innovations and to circulate knowledge worldwide,” underlines Patxi Elissalde, director, ESTIA. “Based in Biarritz and founded with a long-term vision, this Chair will dive into user behaviors, materials and components, manufacturing technologies and services, the digitalization of processes, and the distribution of products, from clothes to accessories.”

This approach will also foster interactions between different professions in order to stimulate creativity. Inspired by overarching principles in the collaborative and circular economy, the Chair also aims to capitalize on advances in research, from frugal or disruptive innovation.

Offering continuous process improvement for automated leather cutting, Versalis LeatherSuite V6 is a step toward an Industry 4.0-ready cutting room for makers of leather vehicle seating and interiors and leather furnishings. The new version of Versalis LeatherSuite enables companies to boost productivity, achieve exceptional cut quality and expand data monitoring capabilities. With Versalis LeatherSuite V6, furniture manufacturers can increase productivity by up to 6%, while automotive suppliers can increase theirs from 8% to 15%.
Versalis LeatherSuite V6 delivers greater precision than ever before for superior leather cutting quality. For that purpose, the new software suite embeds enhanced cutting algorithm addressing latest challenges faced by furniture and automotive customers.
The latest Versalis LeatherSuite’s expanded capabilities also enable manufacturers to manage a wider range of production indicators throughout the cutting process. Developed with the input of Lectra’s automotive and furniture customers, the latest version of the Versalis software suite offers enriched data for process optimization and streamlined execution, enabling manufacturers to reach operational excellence objectives and monitor production. LeatherSuite also empowers manufacturers with decision support, through customizable reports highlighting key performance indicators. Accurate and reliable analyses can be viewed at a glance thanks to the suite’s built-in data modeling.
“With this release, Lectra marks a milestone in terms of customer experience and productivity,” states Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra. “Versalis LeatherSuite V6 is the technology enabler that allows producers of cut leather parts to leverage maximum performance from the Versalis cutting room solution.”

With digitalization transforming the way consumers shop, today’s fashion companies are playing a neverending game of catch-up, as they compete for the attention of a generation of connected, fickle-minded millennials who want it all: personalization, sustainability, quality and speed, accessible at all times, across multiple channels, and at the lowest price. Industry 4.0 is not only revolutionizing how manufacturers operate, but also how brands and retailers need to function, if they want to be fast and agile enough to meet the needs of this demanding new consumer. The stakes are high and how effectively companies harness technology to put the consumer at the heart of their process will be the deciding factor in who comes out ahead and who gets left behind.

Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0 has undergone a drastic reboot to give fashion and apparel companies the speed and agility they need to tackle the challenges of Industry 4.0 head on. Lectra Fashion PLM 4.0, with the widest functional scope on the market, acts as an intelligent nerve center to the digital supply chain, from planning through design to production. This ensures a consistent flow of error-free data between processes, technologies and people. The system connects CAD, industry-standard software such as Adobe Illustrator, company IT systems (such as ERP) and external suppliers, so that actors across the supply chain can work on, save and share information on the platform, ensuring data integrity.
The solution also draws on best practices, fashion-business intelligence and real-world scenarios to automate administrative and repetitive tasks, with templates, standard libraries and shortcuts that allows more time for value-added activities. The final result is a fast, connected digital supply chain that helps fashion companies jump on trends quickly and deliver products that fulfill their customer’s expectations.

  The new cutting room will expand the German car parts maker’s airbag cutting capacity in Europe. This latest collaboration between Lectra and its longtime customer builds on a mutual relationship of trust reaching back to previous ZF TRW projects in Portugal, Poland, Mexico and China. Having recently devised a worldwide airbag growth strategy, the company turned once more to Lectra to help reinforce the capacity of its European manufacturing base.
Early in 2016, Lectra unveiled the revolutionary FocusQuantum range, leading to certification of the integrated airbag cutting solution by the customer’s cutting room managers across the globe. Later that year, ZF TRW also certified Lectra’s FocusQuantum Suite cutting preparation software. The stringent process carried out by ZF TRW bore out the productivity, performance and quality of the state-of-the-art airbag cutting solution and advanced software system.

“By evaluating the solution in accordance with established practices, we were able to confirm that FocusQuantum will help satisfy the projected output of our newest facility,” notes Victor Seoane, head of Global Manufacturing Engineering for Inflatable Restraint Systems, ZF TRW. "We were impressed by the innovation that Lectra’s FocusQuantum offers, enabling us to significantly reduce our cutting cost per bag."
“With this new collaboration, Lectra demonstrates yet again the added value built into the integrated design of FocusQuantum,” states Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra. "The acquisition of two FocusQuantum will enable ZF TRW to meet short-term productivity objectives while also laying the foundation for future growth.”