Aus der Branche

• 18+ metric tons of aniline are estimated to have been removed from the denim supply chain in about 3 years⁽²⁾.
• That represents 300'000'000+ pairs of jeans free of aniline, with 18'000+ garment workers, and aquatic life, protected from its toxicity⁽²⁾.

Archroma celebrates nearly 3 years of successfully converting the denim industry to aniline-free⁽¹⁾ pre-reduced liquid indigo.

Archroma launched its aniline-free⁽¹⁾ Denisol^® Pure Indigo in May 2018⁽³⁾.

Aniline is a key ingredient to make the indigo molecule. Unfortunately, during this process some aniline impurities are carried through into the indigo dyestuff. When the indigo is dyed on the fabric, a lot of the aniline impurity is locked into the pigment in the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. The new Denisol^® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free⁽¹⁾ indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

Since the launch of Denisol^® Pure Indigo, several denim manufacturers, such as front-runner Absolute Denim, as well as Advance Denim, Azgard 9, Kilim Group, Nuevo Mundo, Rantex, Shasha Denim and Tuong Long, have taken the matter in their hands and converted their production or dedicated lines to aniline-free denim to brands and retailers.

The innovation is also supported by denim partners such as Be Disobedient and The Denim Window.

Archroma evaluates that, based on the total quantity of Denisol^® Pure Indigo sold until its introduction, its partners helped remove almost 18 metric tons of aniline from the denim supply chain. That represents an equivalent to about 300’000’000 pairs of jeans free of aniline and more than 18’000 garment workers protected from its toxicity⁽²⁾.

(1) Below limits of detection according to industry standards (tested & proven).
(2) Based on 15 minutes of work to produce one pair of jeans, produced over 8-hour working days and 300 working weeks per year.
(3) For the launch press release, click here.

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Jeanologia, a world leader in sustainable and efficient technology development, today announced the launch of ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’, a water-saving dyeing process at room temperature for casual looks.

Archroma initially introduced its eco-advanced Pad-Ox dyeing process for woven fabrics, and then used it as part of its ADVANCED DENIM concept. By combining the oxidation and fixation steps, it is possible to shorten the dyeing process and thus realize substantial resource savings in water, wastewater, cotton waste, and energy.

Over the years the company has worked with its textile manufacturers and partners to improve the Pad-Ox process, in particular woven applications such as chinos and casual wear. To achieve maximum positive impact, Archroma is using its Diresul® range of low sulfide sulfur dyes and, more recently, its innovative plant-based range of EarthColors®. A wide selection of dyes from these two ranges have received the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute’s Platinum Level Material Health Certification.

Meanwhile, Jeanologia has been working on the technology side, with laser and eco-finishing solutions for more than 25 years, accompanying the textile industry on their way to producing with zero discharge. In 2008, the company introduced its G2 Dynamic the first ozone treatment for continuous fabric that dramatically reduces the amount of water and chemicals used, while at the same time saving costs at the mill and eventually at the garment finishing facilities. This technology makes fabric more stable and consistent and prepares the fabric better for the use of other technologies like laser. This machinery can be used along with Pad-Ox technology to help cleaning fabric thus improve fastness results. While it allows process to work at room temperature.

Project focus on water saving
Archroma and Jeanologia therefore understandably decided to team up and combine their expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing technologies. The objective of the project was to improve the Pad-Ox dyeing process even further, in particular in one area that still offered room for positive impact: temperature and fastnesses.

The new ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’ dyeing process works thanks to the insertion of very small machinery into the existing finishing range process, using cold processing and thus operating with much less water, carbon footprint and energy than traditional benchmark fabric finishing processes, whilst retaining the water and other resource savings offered by the Pad-Ox technology.

Maximum savings can be achieved by mills and garment manufacturers who wish to switch from a conventional dyeing process straight to ‘Pad -Ox G2 Cold’ to obtain high quality fabrics for comfortable and casual wear.

• Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited and Founder of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) has won Sustainable Fashion Champion at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards 2021, which took place virtually on 10 March.

On receiving the award, Mostafiz said he wants to be a game-changer in the apparel industry, leading by example to inspire others to behave responsibly and ethically.

He also dedicated the award to H&M which, he explained, supported his business, Denim Expert, through the pandemic by continuing to place orders He said the loyal support of the Swedish fashion giant almost certainly helped save the livelihoods of 2000 workers at his factory and their 10000 family members. “That’s true sustainability leadership,” he said.

The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards recognise steps being made in reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain.
Judged by an independent panel of sustainability and fashion retail experts, the awards shine a spotlight on best practice within the global fashion industry.

Covid-19 has presented unforeseen challenges for fashion retailers and brands, but it has also given us all an opportunity to build back better. Forward-thinking fashion businesses know change is not optional, and are embracing their responsibilities and ability to make a difference.

Mostafiz Uddin has been recognised as the Sustainable Fashion Champion 2021 for setting examples in promoting sustainability during the Covid-19 pandemic which broke out worldwide in March last year.
Jill Geoghegan, Acting Editor of Drapers, said: “Despite the challenges thrown up by the Coronavirus pandemic, fashion brands and retailers increasingly recognise that sustainability is a business imperative.”  
“Many businesses continued to invest in cleaning up their supply chains and introducing new models of working, despite the unprecedented trading conditions.

“The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards highlight and celebrate these advancements, paving the way for a more responsible future for the industry.” Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited Mostafiz Uddin said: “In the pandemic, my factory Denim Expert Limited kept true to its commitment towards sustainability, despite an extremely difficult trading landscape.

“During the pandemic, I was vocal about the issue of buyer-supplier relationships and, in speaking out, I wanted to champion the cause of suppliers all over the world. Too often suppliers in garment supply chains do not have a voice because they fear that by speaking out, they will be treated unfavourably by brands.

“This was, of course, a risk on my own part but I like to think I stood up for what I think is right and ultimately, I believe progressive brands understood I was coming from a good place. Like them, all I want to see is a fair, ethical and sustainable industry where brands and retailers work in an environment of collaboration, not conflict.”

Mostafiz also had some special praise for H&M. He said: “It would have not been possible for me to support my workers during the pandemic, had my factory not received help from H&M during the unprecedented time. While Denim Expert suffered from huge orders cancellation and orders hold, H&M supported us by placing orders in the pandemic that saved thousands of lives and livelihoods. Therefore, I would like to dedicate this Award to H&M and its CEO Helena Helmersson.”

The judges of Drapers Sustainable Fashion Champion Award 2021 have been Kerry Bannigan, Founder, Conscious Fashion Campaign; Sarah Ditty, Global Policy Director, Fashion Revolution; Miriam Lahage, Founder, Aequip; Samata Pattinson, CEO, Red Carpet Green Dress; Caroline Rush, Chief Executive Officer, British Fashion Council; Lucy Shea, Group CEO, Futerra; Jane Shepherdson, Chairman, My Wardrobe HQ; and Dilys Williams, Director, Centre for Sustainable Fashion.

Britische Universität untersuchte Coronaviren auf Textilien

Im Rahmen einer Studie zur Wirksamkeit von Waschverfahren untersuchte die De Montfort University (DMU) aus Leicester, England die Überlebensfähigkeit von Coronaviren auf Textilien. Der getestete Modell-Coronavirus-Stamm blieb mindestens 72 Stunden lang auf Polyestergewebe und 24 Stunden auf 100% Baumwolle infektiös. Auch wenn die Viren sich durch gängige Waschmittel und entsprechende Temperaturen inaktivieren ließen, warnt der Deutsche Textileinigungs-Verband (DTV) davor, potenziell infektiöse Textilien im häuslichen Umfeld zu waschen. Denn kritische Punkte wie Wäschesortierung, Maschinenbeladung und Kontaminationsmöglichkeiten lassen sich im professionellen Textilservice in einer kontrollierten Umgebung handhaben.

Der anhaltende Ausbruch von SARS-CoV-2 hat die Textilhygiene in vielen Bereichen – vom Gesundheits- und Pflegewesen, über die Gastronomie und Hotellerie bis hin zum Privatkundenbereich – in den Fokus rücken lassen. Die De Montfort University aus Leicester, England hat vor diesem Hintergrund die Überlebensfähigkeit des humanen Coronavirus OC43 (HCoV-OC43), das eine ähnliche Gesamtstruktur wie SARS-CoV-2 aufweist, auf Textilien untersucht und auch Waschverfahren für eine zuverlässige Inaktivierung des Virus geprüft.

Die Leiterin der DMU-Studie, Dr. Katie Laird, fasste die Ergebnisse der Studie zusammen: „Der getestete Coronavirus-Stamm (HCoV-OC43) blieb mindestens 72 Stunden lang auf Polyestergewebe und 24 Stunden auf 100% Baumwolle infektiös.“ Laird ergänzt zudem, dass sich das Virus bis zu 72 Stunden lang von Polyestergewebe auf andere Oberflächen übertragen lässt, was darauf hindeutet, dass Textilien ein gewisses Übertragungsrisiko darstellen können.

Gängige Waschverfahren sind effektiv – Ein Risiko besteht jedoch bei begleitenden Prozessen

Das Forscherteam fand heraus, dass nahezu alle Haushaltswaschvorgänge, möglicherweise mit Ausnahme der Niedrigtemperatur-Haushaltswäsche, das durch Coronavirus verursachte Infektionsrisiko effektiv beseitigen. Wichtig ist jedoch die richtige Kombination von Bewegung, Temperatur und Waschmittel. In diesen Fällen wurde bei Waschverfahren von 40 °C und darüber keine Spur des Virus mehr gefunden.

Andreas Schumacher, Geschäftsführer des Deutschen Textilreinigungs-Verbandes (DTV), mahnt jedoch: „Kleidung, die möglicherweise noch für drei Tage kontaminiert ist, sollte im besten Falle das häusliche Umfeld gar nicht erst erreichen. Mit Coronaviren belastete Textilien sollten in einer kontrollierten Umgebung wie dem Textilservice behandelt werden. Dort wird verschmutzte Wäsche sicher gehandhabt.“ Denn im häuslichen Umfeld wird die verschmutzte Wäsche zwangsweise mehrfach vor dem eigentlichen Waschprozess in die Hand genommen, für schmutzige und saubere Wäsche oft der gleiche Wäschekorb verwendet oder die Waschmaschine selbst steht möglicherweise in der Küche neben dem Herd oder der Spülmaschine, woraus sich noch gänzlich andere Möglichkeiten zur Kreuzkontamination ergeben, so Schumacher.

„Insbesondere Textilien aus dem Gesundheits- und Pflegewesen sowie Berufskleidung im Allgemeinen sollte nicht zuhause gewaschen werden, um eine Übertragung von Krankheitserregern auf Familie und Patienten zu vermeiden“, erläutert Schumacher. „Ergänzend zu den Ergebnissen der britischen Studie sollte darauf hingewiesen werden, dass handelsübliche Haushalts-Waschmaschinen im Gegensatz zu Profimaschinen an neuralgischen Punkten, wie Pumpe, Schublade oder zwischen Gummi und Waschmaschinenfenster die Temperaturen für eine sichere Virusinaktivierung häufig nicht erreichen. Dies kann bei Be- und Entladen der heimischen Waschmaschine zu einer Rekontamination führen“, so Schumacher weiter.

Für den Hotellerie und Gastronomiebereich sieht der DTV keinen Grund, Tischdecken und Servietten aus Stoff durch Papierlösungen zu ersetzen. Tatsächlich bietet hygienisch aufbereitete Tischwäsche bei regelmäßigem Wechsel einen deutlichen Hygienevorteil. Darüber hinaus sprechen auch Gründe des Umweltschutzes und der Ressourcenschonung für die Textillösung.

Hintergrund: Die Forschung wird derzeit einem Peer-Review unterzogen und wird voraussichtlich in den nächsten Monaten in einem Open-Access-Journal veröffentlicht, damit jeder vollständig auf die Forschung zugreifen kann. Auftraggeber der Studie waren Textilpflegeverbände aus England, den Vereinigten Staaten, Schweiz, Belgien, Finnland, Norwegen und Deutschland.

• Major Monforts denim customers continue to pioneer new initiatives that are pushing the boundaries of sustainable production.

Recycling their cotton waste has become one way these companies can do more with less, and at the recent Kingpins24 Flash online event, Sedef Uncu Aki, director of Orta, headquartered in Istanbul, Turkey, announced a new partnership with leading recycling operation Gama Recycle.

Traceable
“Through this local partnership we will supply the waste from our spinning mills and return around 3,000 tons of premium quality cotton back to them,” she said. “We have established a truly controlled and traceable system and partnering with a domestic recycling centre is important because a lot the carbon emissions associated with recycling usually come from transportation.”

Orta’s ZeroMax range meanwhile uses no cotton at all, being based on Lenzing’s Tencel cellulosic fibre, while the company’s involvement in denim production for a recent launch by Levi Strauss, of jeans made with organic cotton and Circulose – a breakthrough material developed by re:newcell of Sweden and partners – was hailed as a further step forward.

To make Circulose, re:newcell repurposes discarded cotton textiles, such as worn-out denim jeans, through a process akin to recycling paper. The incoming waste fabrics are broken down using water. The colour is then stripped from these materials using an eco-friendly bleach and after any synthetic fibres are removed from the mix, the slurry-like mixture is dried and the excess water is extracted, leaving behind a sheet of Circulose. This sheet is then made into viscose fibre which is combined with cotton and woven into new fabrics.

Circular Park
Omer Ahmed, CEO of Artistic Milliners also announced plans for his company’s new 70,000 square-foot Circular Park in Karachi, Pakistan, at Kingpins24 Flash.

Once complete, this will add three million square metres of additional denim capacity a month to the company’s production and take its total recycled output to a monthly five million metres.
Ahmed observed that there is currently a lack of sustainable fibres that are readily available to use for denim production at scale.

“Organic cotton is too expensive, and in my opinion always will be,” he said. “Cottonised hemp is also not cheap and it’s hard to mix with cotton, while the new regenerated cellulose fibres that are now emerging are promising, but currently in short supply. Recycled polyester is meanwhile still based on petroleum resources which we want to move away from. As a consequence, there are only a few other options for us as a manufacturer and this new project will help us minimise our own waste while significantly lowering our carbon footprint.”

Other Monforts denim customers to introduce cotton fibre recycling operations at their plants recently include AGI Denim, Bossa and Soorty.

Vertical savings
Refresh is the name of the latest collection from AGI Denim – reflecting the company’s significant reduction in water consumption.

The company has just opened new fibre spinning and denim mills at its complex in Karachi, Pakistan.

“Over the years we’ve gone through a series of backward integration steps to become fully vertical,” said AGI Denim executive director Ahmed Javed, at Kingpins24 Flash. “In our latest expansion, we revisited every step of the production processes in order to make resource savings.”

Innovations have included the installation of proprietary robotics for garment finishing, but the most attention has been paid to water savings.

“Pakistan is one of the largest cotton-producing companies in the world and we’re fortunate that the type of cotton that is grown here is well suited to denim production and also helps us lower our carbon footprint, with everything done in close proximity,” Javed said. “In the lifecycle of a pair of denim jeans, however, cotton fibre production contributes 68% of water consumption. While we cannot control how much water cotton needs for it to grow, we can rethink the way we use it in our factory.”

Refresh-branded denims are washed from 100% recycled water as a result of the company’s new wastewater treatment plant, which puts production wastewater through a series of steps beginning with equalisation, followed by aeration and concluding with sedimentation. The water travels through filtration and ultrafiltration systems before being subjected to an activated carbon system and finally a reverse osmosis system to reduce any dissolved salts.

AGI now recycles 4.4 million gallons of water each month – enough to wash a million pairs of jeans.

Sustainable
Monforts has a leading position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Thermex continuous dyeing systems, Montex stenter dryers and other lines for resource-efficient and economical processing.

“Our denim partners are constantly setting themselves new goals in respect of sustainable production – and more importantly, achieving them,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “We work closely with them with the aim of constantly optimising processing parameters and achieving further savings in energy, water and raw materials throughout the dyeing and finishing stages of production.”

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing. The CYD system integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre in Mönchengladbach, Germany.”

• Entscheidungen des Corona-Gipfels geben keine Perspektive
• Für Hotelwäschereien wird die Lage immer dramatischer und das Personal rennt davon

Die Ergebnisse des jüngsten Corona-Gipfels sind für die Hotellerie- und Gastronomiebranche erneut niederschmetternd. Extrem davon betroffen sind auch deren Zulieferer wie Wäschereien. Es fehlt weiterhin an einer Perspektive. Jetzt läuft den Unternehmen auch noch das Personal davon.

„Die Entscheidungen vom vergangenen Mittwoch sind in keiner Weise nachzuvollziehen“, so DTV-Geschäftsführer Andreas Schumacher. „Hier wird eine ganze Branche samt ihrer Zulieferer in Haft genommen, trotz inzwischen besseren Wissens.“ Noch vor wenigen Tagen hatte das RKI den Hotels ein niedriges Infektionsrisiko bescheinigt. Hotels würde nicht zu den Pandemie-Treibern gehören, hieß es dazu. Die Branche und ihre Zulieferer hatten deshalb auf eine Öffnungsperspektive beim gestrigen Gipfel von Bund und Ländern gehofft. Der DTV fordert daher dringend Pläne für eine schrittweise Öffnung, beispielsweise mit maximalen Belegungsquoten von 50% in Hotels und Zulassen der Außengastronomie.

Durch die Vorgaben zu Home Office, die Versammlungs- und Veranstaltungsverbote und das Verbot touristischer Übernachtungen sind Hotels inzwischen fünf Monate geschlossen bzw. haben kaum Gäste. Hotelwäschereien, die aktuell zwischen 80 und 90 Prozent Umsatzverluste haben, fordern von Bundesregierung und Länderchefs ein deutlicheres Bekenntnis zu einer Öffnungsperspektive aufgrund der Erkenntnislage zum Infektionsgeschehen. Doch offensichtlich wollen Bund und Länder der Hotellerie-Branche und ihren Zulieferern weiterhin geschlossen halten – entgegen der RKI-Belege und trotz geeigneter Hygienekonzepte und Nachverfolgung. Erst am 22. März soll über mögliche Öffnungen und über Reisen während der Ostertage entschieden werden.

Permanenter Personalverlust droht

„Wie soll diese Branche überleben? Den Hotels und auch den Hotelwäschereien rennt das Personal inzwischen in Scharen davon. Jeder Tag ohne Perspektive ist nicht nur für die Wäschereien, sondern auch für deren Mitarbeiter ein Tag ohne Zukunft.“ Viele DTV-Mitgliedbetriebe berichten von Personalverlusten in zweistelligem Prozentbereich. Tausende von Beschäftigten in den Wäschereien warten immer noch auf eine Perspektive – doch Bund und Länder sehen sich nicht veranlasst, diese Perspektive auch nur ansatzweise aufzuzeigen.

Hier entsteht für die Zukunft zudem ein riesiges Problem: Wenn Hotels irgendwann wieder öffnen können, fehlt es an Personal, Zulieferern und an der Wäscheversorgung. Die Beherbergungsbranche ist gerade für den Messestandort Deutschland von enormer Bedeutung. Ohne Perspektive werden jedoch die Hotels und damit auch die Wäschereien bis dahin kaputt sein. „Wie kann man eine Branche weiterhin komplett im Lockdown halten, die nachgewiesenermaßen ein niedriges Infektionsrisiko hat?“, so DTV-Geschäftsführer Schumacher.

Textilhygiene, Impfungen und Tests unterstützen sicheres Re-Opening

Die Textilservice-Branche unterstützt die Hotellerie und Gastronomie mit hygienisch aufbereiteter Bett- und Tischwäsche sowie Arbeitsbekleidung. Bei einem regelmäßigen Wechsel können sich Gäste und Mitarbeiter darauf verlassen, dass von dieser Seite keine Ansteckungsgefahr ausgeht. Ebenso sollten Schnelltests und zügiges Imfpen natürlich die Öffnungsstrategie unterstützen.

Präzise digitale Materialparameter sind der Schlüssel für den erfolgreichen Einsatz von 3D-Technologien in der Bekleidungsbranche. Hohenstein digitalisiert die Eigenschaften textiler Stoffe für Marken, Bekleidungshersteller und ihre Lieferanten. Die Hohenstein Daten sind kompatibel mit gängigen Software-Systemen und in allen benötigten Dateiformaten verfügbar. Unternehmen sind so in der Lage, realistische 3D-Simulationen durchzuführen und ihre Prozesse bei Design, Modellentwicklung und Produktkommunikation zu optimieren. Das spart Ressourcen und verkürzt die Zeit, bis die Kollektionen in den Markt kommen.

In speziell für die 3D-Simulation adaptierten Laborverfahren ermitteln die Hohenstein Experten an Stoffproben die physikalischen Kennwerte des Materials wie Gewicht, Dicke, Biegesteifigkeit und Dehnung. Anschließend erfolgt die Prüfung des Faltenvolumens und der Form mithilfe eines Drapemeters. Die Ergebnisse werden in die unterschiedlichen Dateiformate der 3D-Simulations-Systeme konvertiert, so dass die digitalen Materialparameter für jeden Kunden im passenden Dateiformat zur Verfügung stehen. Auf Wunsch simuliert Hohenstein auch die dazugehörigen Fallbilder in 3D, um für den Kunden das spezifische Fallverhalten des geprüften Materials zu visualisieren. So lassen sich digitale Prototypen erstellen, die im Anschluss die Freigabeprozesse beschleunigen und deutlich weniger Material beim Anfertigen von realen Mustern für die Produktion benötigen.

• BIONIC-FINISH®ECO Fluorine-Free, Water Repellent Finishes for Ultimate Performance

In recent years, many scientists have shifted from favoring a “primordial soup” in pools of water to hydrothermal vents deep in the ocean as the original source of life on Earth. Regardless what the real beginning really was, water was certainly involved in the process some 3,5bln years ago. And since then, Mother Nature designed many ways to benefit of water and to be sheltered from it. Many engineering challenges humans face can be solved by turning to those 3,5bln years of experience and by using natural design as springboard. That’s biologically inspired engineering or, in short, bionics. BIONIC-FINISH®ECO of RUDOLF GROUP is Mother Nature’s work reproduced on textiles and apparel to protect us from water. To perform.

Back in 2003, RUDOLF GROUP borrowed from Mother Nature the idea of dendrimers (from dendron, Greek word for ‘tree’), molecules made of multi-functional branches that interact among themselves, co-crystallize, and self-organize into highly ordered, multicomponent systems. These hyper-branched polymers attach to the textile and embed fluorine-free, durable water-repellent performance.
In 2021 BIONIC-FINISH®ECO comes as a reviewed and extended family of unique nonhalogenated, APEO-free, fluorine-free formulations suited for different materials and designed for different applications and needs. Still very much based on patented dendrimer technology, the new and strengthened BIONIC-FINISH®ECO’s product portfolio:

• Provides non-fluorinated and highly durable water repellent textile finishes for high-performance, professional applications (e.g. when brushing resistance is required);
• Delivers highly efficient and durable performance with low application amounts thus not affecting fabric feel and appearance (e.g. when remarkable softness is important);
• Fulfills a range of challenging technical requirements (e.g. minimal impact on flame retardant properties of technical fibers);
• Is suitable for both sportswear and outdoor applications, as well as for casual apparel and fashion clothing;
• Is bluesign® approved, ZDHC chemical gateway certified and compliant with most RSLs;

BIONIC-FINISH®ECO new portfolio includes universal and versatile solutions targeting the most standard requirements, as well as customized solutions that meet more demanding and specific expectations such as improved resistance to dry-cleaning. “None of us can entirely predict where our voyage will lead” says Dr. Gunther Duschek, RUDOLF GROUP Managing Director. “However, BIONIC-FINISH®ECO of RUDOLF GROUP will always be the fluorine-free, durable water repellent for ultimate  performance. As it is today”.

• Hohenstein ist als eines von wenigen Prüflaboren weltweit nach ISO 17025 für das ISO/IWA 32:2019 Protokoll akkreditiert
   

Textilien ohne Gentechnik – bei diesem Anliegen setzen immer mehr Verbraucher auf Bio-Baumwolle und nehmen dafür gerne auch höhere Preise in Kauf. Denn der Anbau von Bio-Baumwolle erfordert den Verzicht auf gentechnisch verändertes Saatgut sowie chemische Pestizide und Düngemittel. Dennoch finden sich immer wieder gentechnische Veränderungen in Textilien, die eigentlich mit den einschlägigen Bio-Labels ausgezeichnet sind. Die denkbaren Ursachen der Verunreinigung von Bio-Baumwolle durch gentechnische Veränderungen sind vielschichtig und reichen über die gesamte Wertschöpfungskette hinweg. Der Textilprüfdienstleister Hohenstein ist aktuell eines von fünf Laboren europaweit, das die Prüfung von Textilien auf genveränderte Organismen (englisch: genetically modified organisms, GMO) gemäß dem ISO/IWA 32:2019 Protokoll akkreditiert durchführt.

Das Protokoll wurde von der International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) als International Workshop Agreement (IWA) auf Initiative von Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) und Textile Exchange entwickelt. Ziel ist es, ein offizielles, standardisiertes GMO-Testprotokoll für Textilien aus biologischem Anbau anwenden zu können. Demnach muss jede biologische Baumwolle frei von Gentechnik sein, wohingegen konventionelle Baumwolle den Einsatz von Gentechnik zulässt. Mitte Februar 2021 veröffentlichten die Initiatoren des ISO/IWA 32:2019 Protokolls eine Übersicht über die 14 Prüflabore weltweit, die Tests gemäß den Anforderungen des Protokolls durchführen dürfen, darunter auch der deutsche Prüfdienstleister Hohenstein.

Die Hohenstein Experten haben aber auch eigene molekularbiologische Nachweissysteme entwickelt, um gentechnisch veränderte Baumwolle an allen kritischen Punkten der gesamten Wertschöpfungskette prüfen zu können – von der Roh-Baumwolle über Garne und Flächengebilde bis hin zu konfektionierten Endprodukten. Damit erlaubt das Screening die lückenlose Rückverfolgbarkeit über die gesamte textile Kette hinweg mit klaren Ja-/Nein-Aussagen über GMO-freie Baumwolle bzw. Textilien. Als Partnerinstitut von OEKO-TEX® überprüft Hohenstein auch im Rahmen der STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® Zertifizierung Textilien auf gentechnisch veränderte Organismen. Bei Einhaltung der Vorgaben können die Artikel hier mit den Claims „Bio-Baumwolle“, „biologische Baumwolle“ oder „GMO nicht nachweisbar“ beworben werden.

Hersteller, Marken und der Handel, aber auch Zertifizierungsorganisationen profitieren von lückenlosen analytischen Nachweisen bis hin zum Endprodukt: Verbraucher können darauf vertrauen, dass in den gekauften Artikeln keinerlei gentechnisch veränderte Baumwolle nachgewiesen werden konnte. Denn: Bislang beinhalten die meisten Bio-Zertifizierungen entweder gar keine obligatorischen Labortests oder nur Stichproben-Tests am Baumwoll-Saatgut.

In zwei Schritten zu 100 Prozent Gewissheit - Die Hohenstein GMO-Tests laufen wie folgt ab:

1. Die Probe wird zerkleinert und die Baumwollfasern werden mechanisch und enzymatisch aufgeschlossen. Das Erbgut (DNA) wird aus der Faser isoliert und in einem mehrstufigen Prozess aufgereinigt.

2. Eine gentechnische Veränderung liegt vor, wenn in der DNA spezifische Zielsequenzen (Markergene) vorhanden sind. Diese lassen sich molekularbiologisch nachweisen. Kontrollreaktionen dienen zum Nachweis unveränderter Baumwoll-DNA sowie zum Ausschluss falsch-negativer Ergebnisse.