Aus der Branche

Wie kann man wirtschaftlichen Erfolg mit Produktverantwortung und mehr Nachhaltigkeit verknüpfen? Akteure und Hohenstein Kunden der indischen Textilindustrie waren am 10. November 2022 der Einladung von Hohenstein India gefolgt, um im indischen Gurugram an der Global Sustainability Conference teilzunehmen und mögliche Lösungen für diese Fragestellung zu erhalten. Tags darauf fanden sich am Hohenstein Laborstandort in Gurugram zahlreiche geladene Gäste zur feierlichen Einweihung eines neuen Labors für Leder- und Schuhwaren ein, das erste seiner Art im globalen Hohenstein Kompetenznetzwerk.

Mit der feierlichen Eröffnung durch Prof. Dr. Mecheels, Dr. Christof Madinger, COO Hohenstein HTTI und Dr. Helmut Krause, Hohenstein Technical Director Softlines & Shoes, fiel am 11. November 2022 der Startschuss für das neue Labor für Leder- und Schuhwaren am Laborstandort in Gurugram. Bei Rundgängen konnten sich die Besucher vom künftigen Arbeitsschwerpunkt vor Ort persönlich ein Bild machen: Schadstoffprüfungen gemäß der LEATHER STANDARD RSL und die anschließende Zer­ti­fi­zie­rung von Leder- und Schuhwaren nach dem OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD gewährleisten künftig für Marken, Einzelhändler und Lieferanten ein geringeres Marktrisiko und für Verbraucher umfassende und verlässliche Sicherheit.

Fibres, fabrics, epoxy resins and adhesives from Sicomin have been used by Grand Largue Composites (GLC) to construct the first Class40 racing yacht to feature a significant quantity of flax-fibre reinforcements.
The yacht, called Crosscall, won the Class40 World Championships in June 2022 and is a prototype of the new Lift V2 design by Marc Lombard, one of the leading naval architects in this field.

Class40 is one of the most competitive fleets in yacht racing. The hulls of Class40 yachts must be light in weight, strong and stiff, and durable in the most extreme of conditions. Furthermore, to keep costs down, they cannot be reinforced with carbon fibres. The quality and reliability of the resins used for the infusion and lamination of the hulls are therefore of paramount importance.

Crosscall's cockpit was designed to be effectively non-structural, with the mainsheet, which can generate huge shock loads, supported separately. This would allow the cockpit to be made from a hybrid biaxial fabric comprising 50% flax fibres. Other parts of the boat that incorporate flax fibre include the tunnel, the engine cover, the ballast tanks and the cap. The rest of the boat is reinforced with 100% glass-fibre fabrics.

To help it realise this ambitious design, GLC, an infusion specialist, turned to its long-time material supplier, Sicomin. The hull was moulded and infused in one piece and the deck – including the hybrid flax-fibre cockpit – was also infused as a single part. The internal structure was then laminated into the hull by hand before the hull and deck were finally bonded together.

The infusion resin selected was Sicomin’s SR 1710, a high-modulus structural epoxy. Designed specifically for use in infusion and injection processes, it has exceptionally low viscosity and its low-reactivity hardener makes it suitable for the production of large parts. Composites components made from SR 1710 possess high interlaminar shear-strength and the resin retains its mechanical properties in wet environments.

Sicomin’s low-toxicity SR 8200 was used to laminate the internal structures onto the skin of the hull. Ideal for hand laminating, this system includes a choice of hardeners with a wide range of reactivities, which makes it equally suitable for making large or small parts. The hull and deck were joined together with Sicomin’s Isobond SR 7100, which demonstrates high fatigue strength and is very resistant to microcracking.

An epoxy bonding primer – called Undercoat EP 215 HB+ and supplied by Sicomin’s sister company, Map Yachting – was applied to the moulds first to make demoulding easier. It also serves as an undercoat in the polyurethane exterior paint system that is used instead of gelcoat to protect the epoxy hull from UV damage.

Since the launch of Crosscall, GLC has started building a second Lift V2 Class40 and a third one is now planned, both for which Sicomin will supply the materials.

Hologenix®, creators of CELLIANT®, began 20 years ago with the idea of improving the quality of people's lives and health with an emphasis on non-invasive, natural, holistic healing. Co-founder and CEO Seth Casden became fascinated with the effect infrared has on the body and worked with a dedicated team to develop and market CELLIANT® infrared technology and thus materials science innovator Hologenix came to be.

CELLIANT, a proprietary blend of IR-generating bioceramics that are ethically sourced, is a unique combination of nature and performance. CELLIANT captures and converts body heat into infrared energy for increased local circulation and cellular oxygenation, resulting in stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep. It is a key ingredient in textiles, spanning both performance and fashion apparel, sleep and lounge wear, bedding, upholstery, uniforms and medical supplies.

The first partnership Hologenix secured was with the Ireland-based fiber company Wellman International Limited, a fully owned subsidiary of Indorama Ventures and a pioneer in recycling technologies. Hologenix still works with them today, a tribute to the company’s ability to form long-term partnerships with like-minded organizations, and their joint project of pure white CELLIANT rPET fiber was shortlisted for a prestigious Drapers Sustainable Fashion Award earlier in the year.

On the brand side, many of the first brands to incorporate CELLIANT were in the sportwear industry, including Adidas, Reebok, Saucony, Eastern Mountain Sports, Sierra Designs sleeping bags and Superfeet insoles.

In 20 years, Hologenix has achieved many scientific milestones, and CELLIANT has been and continues to be rigorously tested by a Science Advisory Board composed of experts in photobiology, nanotechnology, sleep medicine, and diabetes and wound care. The Science Advisory Board has overseen nine peer-reviewed published studies that demonstrate CELLIANT’s effectiveness and the benefits of infrared energy.

Looking ahead, Hologenix is continuing to research applications for CELLIANT in the agriculture industry and wound healing and diabetes. Expansion into the FemTech market with both product applications and scientific research about the benefits of infrared for women’s health issues is also on the horizon.

Medline, a medical product distributor and manufacturer, together with Hologenix® launched a new line of CURAD® Performance Series® orthopedic products powered by CELLIANT® infrared technology.

CELLIANT, the flagship innovation of Hologenix, is a proprietary blend of natural minerals that allows textiles to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local blood flow and cellular oxygenation. This has been clinically demonstrated to support recovery from physical activity and fatigue, increase endurance and stamina, and boost overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.  

Trusted by athletes, CURAD is the Official Medical Supplier of the IRONMAN® U.S. Series. The new orthopedic products powered by CELLIANT infrared technology are the latest additions to the CURAD Performance Series collection and including different infrared supports designed for the ankle, knee, back, shoulder, as well as multipurpose use.

“This new CURAD Performance Series offering represents a major expansion of CELLIANT infrared (IR) bio-responsive textiles into the sports medicine field,” said Seth Casden, Hologenix Co-Founder and CEO. “We are honored to partner with Medline and look forward to future introductions.”

In addition to the inclusion of CELLIANT infrared technology, Medline has engineered the elastic supports to provide targeted compression for enhanced local circulation that helps reduce swelling, with a contoured fit that won’t slip or shift during normal activities with silicone grips that keep the product in place.

The removable hot/cold therapy supports provide adjustable compression and a gel compress that can be cooled or heated to further reduce swelling and discomfort.

Die MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH verlegt die Termine für ihre internationalen Fabric Trade Shows. Ab 2023 werden die Sommerausgaben von MUNICH FABRIC START, BLUEZONE, KEYHOUSE und THE SOURCE in der zweiten Julihälfte (18. und 19. Juli 2023) stattfinden. Die VIEW wird im kommenden Sommer erstmalig als reVIEW Konzept am 5. und 6. September 2023 nach der MUNICH FABRIC START veranstaltet. Die Messetermine für Spring.Summer 24 bleiben unverändert: VIEW (29. – 30. November 2022), MUNICH FABRIC START (24. – 26. Januar 2023), BLUEZONE und KEYHOUSE (24. – 25. Januar 2023).

Die jüngste Ausgabe der Messen der Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH vom 30. August bis 1. September 2022 feierte nicht nur das Comeback von MUNICH FABRIC START und der internationalen Denim Tradeshow BLUEZONE nach den Corona-bedingt angepassten Formaten der vergangenen Saisons, sondern markierte auch das 50. Jubiläum einer der wichtigsten europäischen Stoffmessen und Business-Plattformen für die Fashion- und Denim-Branche. Insgesamt begrüßten 900 Aussteller:innen aus 40 Ländern über 14.000 Besucher:innen und zeigten ca. 1.500 Kollektionen

JIAM 2022 OSAKA, organised by the Japan Sewing Machinery Manufacturers Association (JASMA), will soon be held at INTEX OSAKA from 30 November – 3 December 2022. Under the theme of “It all connects at JIAM – the forefront of technology and master craftsmanship”, the 12th edition brings together leading sewing machine suppliers and apparel manufacturers, making it a must-attend event for textile professionals. In this era of change, an international platform to facilitate business and information exchange is essential. The 2022 edition will showcase apparel manufacturing solutions catered to each and every need, combining high-level skillsets and time-tested knowledge with the latest modern-day technology.

As of October, 144 exhibitors from 10 countries and regions (China, Greece, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand) have signed up for JIAM 2022 OSAKA to showcase their latest products and services. Of these, 39 companies (21 domestic, 18 overseas) will be joining the fair for the first time. In addition, two pavilions from Germany (VDMA; Mechanical Engineering Industry Association) and Taiwan (TSMA; Taiwan Sewing Machinery Association) will bring even more product diversity to the show floor. The previous edition of JIAM OSAKA in 2016 welcomed 258 exhibitors from 15 countries and regions as well as 15,257 visitors from 72 countries and regions, mainly from Bangladesh, China, India, Korea, Taiwan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam.

A wide variety of special seminars
11 special organiser seminars will not only provide relevant industry knowledge, but also offer practical skills for daily work:

• Manufacturing industry and digital technology
  Mr Atsushi Yasuda, Manager of Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry Manufacturing Industries Bureau,Industrial Machinery Division
• Skills training seminar
  1. Twist Jacket (Lapel) pattern and matching sewing (front and shoulder seams)
  2. Shoulder keeper (prevent shoulder collapse) cherish a piece of clothing
  Mr Susumu Inarida, Emeritus Professor of Bunka Fashion Graduate University (BFGU) / Specially Appointed Committee Member of Japan Modelist Associate / Contemporary Master Craftsman Certified by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare
• "Mottainai!" sustainable initiatives from Osaka!
  Common points between Senshu Towl and OSAKA KABAN and the future
  Mr Eiji Shinoda, President of Shinoda cCorp
  Mr Kenji Fukuroya, Representative Employee of Fukuroya Joint Company etc.
• About the sustainable fashion community “NewMake”- Upcycling initiatives in collaboration with brands
  Mr Tac Hosokawa, CEO of Story & Co.
• Win - win strategy on underwear sewing, viewpoint of BISEI SANGYO Co., LTD
  Mr Toru Miyawaki, Managing Executive Officer of BISEI SANGYO Co.,LTD / Chairman of Hikoneseni Cooperative

Home Sewing Machine Zone
Catering to the B2C market, the Home Sewing Machine Zone, will feature major domestic household sewing machine suppliers. To promote the joy of sewing, a special workshop will be organised by Brother Industries Ltd, Janome Corp, JUKI Corp and JASMA covering topics such as the use of upcycled materials. As part of JIAM 2022 OSAKA’s sustainable development goals, visitors will be taught to sew “cup sleeves” using discarded items and materials from the DIY brand WHTATNOT. Attendees will also learn about upcycling, the process of upgrading unwanted items into new products that are useful. Another highlight will be the awards for JASMA’s “42th Home Sewing Competition for Elementary, Middle, and High School Students”.

• Umsatz von 366.8 Mio. CHF im dritten Quartal, 987.4 Mio. CHF nach neun Monaten
• Bestellungseingang von 226.4 Mio. CHF im dritten Quartal, 1 095.8 Mio. CHF nach neun Monaten
• Bestellungsbestand von rund 2 000 Mio. CHF per 30. September 2022
• Vorkehrungen gegen eine mögliche Energiekrise in Europa getroffen
• Finanzierung einer Professur für Künstliche Intelligenz
• Verkaufsprozess Rieter-Areal im Plan
• Ausblick 2022

Rieter verzeichnete im dritten Quartal 2022 eine deutliche Zunahme beim Umsatz und erreichte ein Niveau von 366.8 Mio. CHF (2021: 257.3 Mio. CHF). Die eingeleiteten Massnahmen zur Steigerung von Umsatz und Profitabilität im zweiten Halbjahr 2022 zeigen Wirkung und werden weiterhin konsequent umgesetzt. Diese umfassen eine enge Zusammenarbeit mit Schlüssellieferanten, die Entwicklung alternativer Lösungen zur Beseitigung von Materialengpässen, die Durchsetzung von Preiserhöhungen und die Verbesserung der Margenqualität des Bestellungsbestands.

Der Bestellungseingang von 226.4 Mio. CHF im dritten Quartal 2022 spiegelt die erwartete Normalisierung der Nachfrage nach neuen Anlagen gegenüber dem Rekordjahr 2021 wider, das durch Nachholeffekte und die regionale Verschiebung der Nachfrage geprägt war. Zusätzlich dämpfend auf die Nachfrage wirkten auch die bekannten Unsicherheiten und Risiken und die nach wie vor sehr langen Lieferzeiten bei wichtigen Herstellern. Auch die Nachfrage nach Verbrauchs-, Verschleiss- und Ersatzteilen ging im dritten Quartal 2022 aufgrund der nachlassenden Auslastung der Spinnereien zurück. Grössere Bestellungen konnten weiterhin aus der Türkei, Usbekistan und China verzeichnet werden.

Rieter verfügt zum 30. September 2022 über einen hohen Bestellungsbestand von rund 2 000 Mio. CHF (30. September 2021: 1 562 Mio. CHF), der in allen drei Geschäftsbereichen die Auslastung bis weit ins 2023 bzw. 2024 sicherstellt. Die Stornierungsrate lag in der Berichtsperiode bei rund 5% des Bestellungsbestandes.

Ausblick 2022
Rieter geht für die kommenden Monate von einer abgeschwächten Nachfrage nach neuen Anlagen aus. Die Nachfrage nach Verbrauchs-, Verschleiss- und Ersatzteilen wird von der Auslastung der Spinnereien in den kommenden Monaten abhängen.

Für das Gesamtjahr 2022 rechnet Rieter mit einem Umsatz von rund 1 400 Mio. CHF. Die Umsatzrealisierung aus dem Bestellungsbestand bleibt in Zusammenhang mit den bekannten Unsicherheiten weiterhin mit Risiken behaftet.

Rieter erwartet für das Jahr 2022 trotz eines im Vorjahresvergleich deutlich höheren Umsatzes einen Gewinn auf Stufe EBIT und Reingewinn unterhalb des Vorjahresniveaus. Grund dafür sind die erheblichen Kostensteigerungen für Material und Logistik, zusätzliche Kosten zur Kompensation von Materialengpässen sowie Aufwendungen in Zusammenhang mit der Akquisition in den Jahren 2021/2022.

• Positive Geschäftsentwicklung in allen vier Geschäftsbereichen
• Umsatzanstieg um 14,8 % auf 853,9 Mio. €
• Bereinigtes EBITDA verbessert sich um 25,4 % auf 136,1 Mio. €
• Erfolgreiche Refinanzierung der Wandelschuldverschreibung von 2018

Nach 270,9 Mio. € im 1. Quartal 2022 und 278,9 Mio. € im 2. Quartal erhöhte die SGL Carbon den Konzernumsatz im 3. Quartal 2022 auf 304,1 Mio. €. Nach neun Monaten entspricht dies einem deutlichen Umsatzwachstum von 14,8 % auf insgesamt 853,9 Mio. € (9M 2021: 743,5 Mio. €). Die erfreuliche Geschäftsentwicklung spiegelt sich auch im bereinigten EBITDA der Gesellschaft wider, das sich im Vergleich zum Vorjahreszeitraum um 25,4 % auf 136,1 Mio. € verbesserte (9M 2021: 108,5 Mio. €). Zum operativen Erfolg haben alle vier Geschäftsbereiche beigetragen.

Ausblick
Aufgrund der positiven Geschäftsentwicklung hat das Management die Prognose für das Gesamtjahr am 6. September 2022 erhöht. Für das Geschäftsjahr 2022 wird ein Konzernumsatz von ca. 1,2 Mrd. € (zuvor: ca. 1,1 Mrd. €) und ein bereinigtes EBITDA von 170 bis 190 Mio. € (zuvor: 130 bis 150 Mio. €) erwartet.

Folglich wird ein bereinigtes EBIT von 110 bis 130 Mio. € (zuvor: 70 bis 90 Mio. €) prognostiziert. Die Erwartungen zur Kapitalrendite (ROCE) von ursprünglich 7 % bis 9 % werden entsprechend der Ergebnisentwicklung auf 10 % bis 12 % angehoben. Die Einschätzung zum Free Cashflow (deutliche Unterschreitung des Vorjahresniveaus von 111,5 Mio. €) bleibt unverändert.

From 7 – 9 December 2022, Cinte Techtextil China will welcome visitors sourcing solutions for 12 application areas of technical textiles and nonwovens at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai.

A number of countries and regions are represented at the fair’s International Zone, with companies from Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, and the US. Standout international exhibitors include:

• TESTEX, an international, independent Swiss institute which specialises in the testing and certification of textile and leather products. The organisation is a founding member and official representative of the OEKO-TEX® Association, and will present their certification services at the fairground.
• Cotton Council International (CCI) is a non-profit trade association that promotes US cotton fibre and manufactured cotton products, with their COTTON USA™ Mark. At this year’s fair they will showcase cotton spunlace fabric, wipes, kitchen tissues, facial masks, cosmetic removers, and more, with their products particularly applicable to Agrotech, Clothtech, Medtech, and Sporttech.
• Graf + Cie AG is a subsidiary of the Rieter Group, and a leading supplier of clothing for carding and combs for combing machines in the short- and long-staple spinning industry. This year, the Swiss company will showcase stationary flats, and metallic card clothing for roller cards.
• At the returning German Pavilion, buyers can source sought-after technical textiles and nonwovens that are renowned for their quality. The companies and expertise on display at this pavilion are endorsed by the Federal Republic of Germany, with several exhibitors highlighted below:
• Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co KG has developed machinery for the textile industry since 1949. Today, the company offers complete line systems for the dry finishing of both woven and knitted fabric, as well as for technical textiles, glass fibres, and floor coverings.
• Perlon (Zhejiang) Co Ltd is part of a global group of companies that specialises in the manufacture of synthetic filaments, with factories in China, Germany, Poland, and the US. Their products have a diverse range of potential uses, largely categorised in the Agrotech and Indutech application areas.
• IBENA Textilwerke GmbH produces various functional fabrics for Protech. At the fair, the company will be showcasing insulative, flame retardant (FR) textiles for firefighting and search & rescue services. Developed with DuPont™ aramid material, their FR properties will not diminish after washing or repeated use.

This year’s fair also sees the return of the Taiwan Zone. With support from the Taiwan Nonwoven Fabrics Industry Association, the area will showcase a range of industry leading nonwoven products and services, by brands such as KNH Enterprise, Nan Liu Enterprise, Unique Pretty Ind, and Web-Pro Corporation.

As a world’s largest manufacturer of technical textiles, China is home to a vast array of companies responsible for innovative products. Some domestic exhibitors to look out for are:

• CTA Hi-Textiles Co Ltd, a high-tech enterprise controlled by China Textile Science Research Institute. In recent years, the company has developed several new textile composite materials, and their products are widely used in sectors such as national defence, policing and public security, medical protection, and engineering and manufacturing.
• Sateri is one of the world’s largest producers of viscose fibre, with an annual capacity of 1.8 million metric tonnes. At their mills, they make yarn and fibre products applicable to sectors such as beauty, hygiene and personal care, medical, wipes, and protective wear.

To help international buyers stay connected with the Chinese market, Match Plus, the fair’s online business matching platform, will support foreign buyers achieve their sourcing goals despite travel limitations. Further information on Match Plus will be available at a later stage.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) bietet ab sofort eine elastische Variante seiner flexiblen Superabsorber für moderne Wundverbände an. Sie sorgen dafür, dass die Wundverbände für Patienten komfortabler sind und länger getragen werden können. Letzteres führt dazu, dass die Wundverbände weniger oft gewechselt werden müssen. Freudenberg zeigt die elastischen Superabsorber erstmals auf der diesjährigen Compamed in Düsseldorf, vom 14. bis 17. November 2022. Weitere Highlights sind Komponenten für eine nachhaltigere Wundversorgung, PU-Schäume mit direkt aufgetragenen Silikon-Adhäsiven und ein innovativer hydrophiler Debridement-Schaum.

Bei der Herstellung der elastischen Superabsorber setzt Freudenberg eine neue Technologie ein. Im Gegensatz zu anderen Verfahren kommt diese ohne Perforation oder Schlitzen des Materials aus, was ein hohes Maß an durchgängiger Elastizität bewirkt. Zudem bindet die Freudenberg-Technologie die superabsorbierenden Fasern besser in das Material ein. Das führt zu einer besseren Integrität dieser Lage im Wundverband.

„Unsere neuen elastischen Superabsorber zeigen erneut, dass Freudenberg-Komponenten dazu beitragen, den Komfort für Patienten zu steigern, den Aufwand für Pflegende zu reduzieren und die Kosten im Gesundheitssystem zu senken. Die Basis dafür bilden unsere breite Technologieplattform und unsere Innovationsstärke“, sagt Dr. Henk Randau, SVP und General Manager der Global Division Healthcare von Freudenberg Performance Materials.