Aus der Branche

Vandewiele Sweden is spearheading a transformation in B2B operations for the industry, with a new e-commerce platform developed in Sweden. The company, a member of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association, has taken on the task of developing the digital solution that will meet the future demands for Vandewiele Group customers worldwide.

The Vandewiele Sweden team has developed a user-friendly interface that exploits the latest "exploding view" diagrams to ensure customers can easily identify and order the components they need, all within a 1:1 digital representation. The next stage in 3D technology is set up and ready, although it awaits implementation and market readiness to fully integrate and utilize its features.

Adopting a phased approach, the company is initially introducing its IRO-branded accessories, spare parts and gauge parts, targeting textile mills, weavers and distributors. The platform has been carefully crafted to cater to the varying needs of its diverse clientele, offering streamlined direct sales and a transparent commission structure for agents and distributors.

With an ambitious logistics promise of 48-hour dispatch and leveraging third-party payment service providers like Nets, the company assures speed and reliability in every transaction.

Scheduled for launch in April, Vandewiele stands ready to introduce its new e-commerce solution to key markets, including Scandinavia, the Baltics, parts of Europe, Turkey, and India.

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

UK’s Optima 3D is delivering its weaving technology to the USA, for installation at the University of Maine’s Advanced Structures and Composites Center (ASCC).

The 3D weaving system consists of an Optima 3D Series 600 shuttle weaving machine with an integrated 2,688-hook Stäubli SX jacquard and harness. It is also complemented by Optima’s compact warp delivery creel and an associated pirn winder for shuttle bobbins and a spool winder for creel spools.

Optima’s looms offer many advanced features over conventional weaving machines, particularly in terms of versatility, as a result of the comprehensive use of digital control systems allowing rapid parameter and sequence changes, coupled with an innovative shuttle system.

The ASCC is certainly no stranger to advanced technology, or indeed ambitious composite projects – in 2019 it received no less than three Guinness World Records, for the world’s largest prototype polymer 3D printer, the largest solid 3D-printed object, and the largest 3D-printed boat. In its latest project it has further introduced BioHome3D – the first 3D-printed house made entirely with bio-based materials developed in a partnership with Oak Ridge National Laboratory. The 182-square-metre prototype features 3D-printed floors, walls and roof which are fully recyclable and highly insulated with 100% wood insulation and customisable R-values. Construction waste was nearly eliminated due to the precision of the printing process.

The recent Techtextil show in Frankfurt emphasised the diversity of applications for nonwovens and technical textiles, according to finishing technology specialist Monforts.

“We fielded enquiries at top management level from an extremely wide range of companies, all with very different ideas for new product applications during the show,” said Alexander Fitz, who joined the company a year ago as engineer for textile technologies and co-ordinator of the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC). Fitz brings a background in both technical textile technology and processes to the role, having previously worked for a nonwovens machinery builder and a roll-goods manufacturer.

Trials
“We are now looking forward to interesting new trials and pilot production runs, as well as the commissioning of new orders for machines resulting from the extremely busy exhibition,” he says. “Obviously, everyone at the moment is looking to make energy savings, and we have developed a range of options for helping companies increase their resource efficiency, both on new lines and as retrofitted systems, but this is not stifling innovation at the new material level.

“There was a lot of interest in what is possible with the Montex®Coat coating system and the range of different techniques it enables, and at our ATC in Mönchengladbach, a Montex®Coat unit is integrated into the full technical textiles pilot line, on which it is possible to run new fabrics in widths of up to 1.8 metres.”

Explosion proof
The technical textiles line at the ATC incorporates a Montex four-chamber stenter and is fitted with an explosion-proof coating application chamber in order to allow treatment to be carried out with organic solvents and other volatile materials.

Every single component within the chamber has to meet the standards of the European Union’s ATEX directives for working in a potentially explosive atmosphere. A range of sensors linked to alarms operate at various levels within the chamber to ensure the specified lower explosion limit (LOL) is never exceeded and the ventilation adapts accordingly.

Advanced functions
Special features on the finishing line relate to further advanced functions such as the ability to treat materials not only at temperatures of up to 320°C, but also to be able to treat the top and bottom faces of certain materials at different temperatures within a single pass through the machine.

To achieve this, the first two chambers of the stenter are fitted with special, heavy duty TwinAir ventilation motors and separate burners for individual top/bottom temperature. A temperature differential of up to 60°C can be achieved between the upper and lower nozzles within the chamber, depending on the treatment paramenters.

Another key feature of the technical textiles line at the ATC is the special stretching device which is capable of pulling ten tons in length and ten tons in width – a huge amount per square metre of fabric and necessary in the production of materials such as woven or 3D knits for high temperature filter media.

Originally conceived as a low-cost, high-volume alternative to knitting and weaving, nonwovens was already expanding its market boundaries by the 1970s with new applications in ‘disposables’ such as diapers, hygiene and teabags.

In the past five decades, the nonwovens business has exploded in all directions, reaching a global market worth USD 40.5 billion in 2020, projected to grow to USD 53.5 billion by 2025. This annual growth rate of 5.7% (MarketsandMarkets, Nonwoven Fabric Market Report) is based on countless new applications and expansion into durable, as well as additional disposable, products.

Major growth drivers include the hygiene sector, and filtration media for power plants and air conditioning systems. Especially during the peak of the COVID pandemic in 2020 and 2021, demand in the hygiene sector multiplied. Worldwide capacities for both meltblown and spunlace production rocketed compared to a normal business year. Swiss Autefa Solutions, for example, significantly benefited from this trend, notably with the launch of a fully-automatic machine for producing face masks.

The automotive industry is the second big growth area, with many new applications being pioneered. The trend to electric and hybrid vehicles has helped this, as nonwovens reinforced with carbon fibres are widely used as battery housings.

Swiss nonwovens competence
Innovative applications across all sectors have driven the rapid evolution of sophisticated nonwovens machinery. Today’s trends demand higher productivity, sustainability and Industry 4.0 compatibility – demonstrated by the full equipment portfolio of Swiss Textile Machinery member Autefa Solutions. With V-Jet Futura, the company recently sealed the link in its product range between web forming and drying technology. This latest Hydroentanglement Machine, together with the SQ-V Square Drum Dryer, embodies advanced technology combined with significant reductions in energy consumption compared to other process solutions.

A vital contribution to nonwovens production is offered by Rieter subsidiary Graf, a leading supplier of clothing and combs for carding and combing processes in spinning and nonwovens. Graf's Hipro card clothings – suitable for any man-made fibres in the nonwovens sector – are focussing on higher productivity. Their superior performance delivers up to 10% higher throughput and greater carding efficiency compared to conventional clothings. These reliable card clothing elements also ensure a consistently reproducible high web quality, as well as 20% fewer failures in the web, thanks to the precise fibre transfer to and from the cylinder.

Another constant trend in nonwovens today is the drive for better quality. Manufacturers want to take charge of contamination levels in their processes, as well as eradicating defects which may arise during production. Uster Technologies, a leading provider of quality management solutions from fibre to fabric, offers a combined solution to achieve both these required quality standards. At the fibre preparation stage, Uster Jossi Vision Shield N ensures the best possible initial inspection and removal of contamination. Then, at the end of the production sequence, Uster EVS Fabriq Vision N handles automated detection and marking of all the main defects caused during production. This combined solution avoids material waste and takes full advantage of the potential for process optimization.

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

• Rieter schützt seine Innovationen und Produkte mit Patenten und einge-tragenen Designs.

Das Unternehmen geht konsequent gegen Patent- und Designverletzungen vor. Mitte Juli 2020 entschied der Shanghai Intellectual Property Court der Volksrepublik China in einem Rechtstreit zugunsten der Rieter Ingolstadt GmbH (Deutschland).

Rieter-Maschinen stehen für ausgezeichnete Qualität, hohe Betriebssicherheit, gute Performance und Bedienerfreundlichkeit sowie ein einzigartiges Design. Um von diesen Eigenschaften profitieren zu können, kopieren Mitbewerber die erfolgreichen Rieter-Maschinenkonzepte und übernehmen sogar das begehrte Rieter-Design.

Rieter schützt seine Innovationen durch Patente und eingetragene Designs. Gegen Unternehmen, die Rieter-Patente oder -Designs verletzen und Produkte oder Maschinen kopieren, geht das Unternehmen konsequent vor. Im Jahr 2018 hat Rieter Designverletzungen bei Doppelkopf-Strecken der Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. registriert und sich entschieden, das chinesische Unternehmen zu verklagen.

Mitte Juli 2020 stellte der Shanghai Intellectual Property Court der Volksrepublik China fest, dass die Doppelkopf-Strecken JWF1316 und JWF1316T der Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. dem betroffenen Designpatent ähnlich sind und in dessen Schutzbereich fallen. Die beklagte Shenyang Hongda Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. wurde verurteilt, der klagenden Rieter Ingolstadt GmbH für wirtschaftliche Verluste und Aufwendungen zu zahlen.

• Oerlikon präsentiert erweitertes Nonwoven Produktportfolio an der IDEA 2019 in Miami

Neumünster – Oerlikon präsentiert sich auf der diesjährigen IDEA in Miami vom 25. - 28. März mit seinem kompletten Nonwoven Anlagen Portfolio für die Produktion von Airlaid-, Meltblown-, Spinnvlies- sowie Hybridmaterialien. Der Schwerpunkt des Auftritts wird auf Lösungen für Hygiene-, Medikal- und anderen Einwegvliesen liegen. IDEA Besucher können sich auf dem Oerlikon Messestand Nr. 1724 über das breite Produktspektrum informieren.

Zwei starke Partnerschaften für Einwegvliesstoffe

Fokussierte sich die Geschäftseinheit Nonwoven des Oerlikon Segments Manmade Fibers vor zwei Jahren noch fast ausschließlich auf Lösungen für technische Anwendungen, so hat das Unternehmen mittlerweile sein Produktportfolio um Lösungen für Einwegvliesstoffe durch die Etablierung von starken Partnerschaften erweitert.

Oerlikon & Teknoweb Materials – zwei starke Partner für die Nonwoven Industrie

Bereits im Frühjahr 2017 ging der Nonwoven-Geschäftsbereich von Oerlikon Manmade Fibers eine strategische Partnerschaft mit der italienischen Firma Teknoweb Materials ein. Teknoweb Materials ist ein etablierter Technologieanbieter auf dem Gebiet der Wischtücher (wipes) und anderen Disposable Nonwovens. Das Unternehmen verfügt mit der LEVRA-Technologie über ein eigenes patentiertes und besonders energieeffizientes Herstellverfahren für Wischtücher. Ebenso verfügt es über umfangreiches Prozess-know-how zur Herstellung und Weiterverarbeitung dieser Vliesstoffe. Der Nonwoven Geschäftsbereich des Oerlikon Segments Manmade Fibers ergänzt diese Partnerschaft mit seinen bewährten Maschinen- und Anlagenlösungen. Teknoweb Materials wird ebenfalls auf dem Oerlikon Messestand Nr. 1724 auf der IDEA vertreten sein.

Kooperation mit Shaoyang Textile Machinery

Bei Spunmelt-Anlagenlösungen für Hygiene- und Medikalanwendungen kooperiert Oerlikon seit Herbst letzten Jahres mit dem chinesischen Maschinen- und Anlagenbauer Shaoyang Textile Machinery. Ziel der Kooperationspartner ist es, die internationale Vermarktung von Spunmelt-Anlagen außerhalb Chinas gemeinsam voranzubringen. Oerlikon bringt sein Know-how beim Plant-Engineering ein und zeichnen für die Produkt- und Prozessgarantien verantwortlich. Außerdem übernimmt Oerlikon die Gesamtprojektverantwortung sowie den weltweiten Kundendienst außerhalb Chinas. Shaoyang mit Hauptsitz in der  gleichnamigen Stadt in der Provinz Hunan liefert im Gegenzug die Anlagentechnologien. Der Vorteil für die Kunden: wettbewerbsstarke Lösungen auf einem attraktiven Preisniveau mit vergleichsweise geringen Investitionen.