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ISPO TREND REPORT (c) Messe München GmbH
28.01.2020

ISPO: SPORT BECOMES A SYNONYM FOR HEALTH

TREND REPORT

  • Winter sports trends for 2020/2021
  • The winter sports industry is increasingly focusing on sustainability
  • ISPO Munich (January 26 to 29) to showcase next season’s products

Health will be one of the next decade’s megatrends. The sports industry is, for its part, one of the growth drivers, not least because society now views fitness as a synonym for health. In the future, athleticism will have an ever greater bearing on our everyday lives.

TREND REPORT

  • Winter sports trends for 2020/2021
  • The winter sports industry is increasingly focusing on sustainability
  • ISPO Munich (January 26 to 29) to showcase next season’s products

Health will be one of the next decade’s megatrends. The sports industry is, for its part, one of the growth drivers, not least because society now views fitness as a synonym for health. In the future, athleticism will have an ever greater bearing on our everyday lives.

“Medical fitness” refers to ensuring both a sporty lifestyle and the right medical care tailored to the individual needs. Winter sports are also set to assume a challenging yet important role in the future as a vehicle for teaching values within society. Veit Senner, Professor of Sports Equipment and Sports Materials at the Technical University of Munich, says: “Sports must be used as an emotional Trojan Horse for teaching skills and in particular for teaching values.”

There are also other challenges that will need to be faced in the next few years: Children and adolescents need to be encouraged to lead more active lifestyles and our aging population needs to be kept fit and mobile for as long as possible. Senner believes that winter sports could hold the key for today’s youth: “We need to demonstrate the kinds of educational content and values that can be taught through sports.” Attractive products and services therefore need to be created for children. The latest winter sports trends and pro ducts will be showcased at ISPO Munich from January 26 to 29.

Textile manufacturers are giving the winter sports industry an eco-boost
Swedish label Klättermusen impressed the ISPO Award jury so much with its first fully compostable down jacket “Farbaute” that they named it the Gold Winner in the Outdoor category and the winner of the ISPO Sustainability Award.

The first 100% biodegradable down jacket biologically decomposes on the compost heap after around three months (all apart from the zippers and a few snap fasteners which can be removed and reused).

When washed it does not release any microplastics into the environment. Norwegian clothing manufacturer Helly Hansen is launching a new membrane technology for winter 2020/2021 which can be produced without any additional chemicals. The microporous Lifa Infinity membrane is made using a solvent-free process and, together with a water-repellent Lifa outer material, provides extremely impressive protection from the elements. Helly Hansen’s new Lifa Infinity Pro technology also uses the spinning jet dyeing process whereby the color pigments are already injected during the fiber production process. This can save up to 75% water. What’s more, no harmful wastewater is produced.

The winter sports industry is increasingly focusing on sustainability
“The really big trend is for biopolymer fabrics and materials,” says Senner. “The idea is to replace the many different types of plastics that are used in the sports industry with biopolymers.” Together with his team, he is working hard to conduct in-depth research in both areas. This is a trend which French ski brand Rossignol has also identified, whereby it has focused on the use of raw and recycled materials for the production of its new Black Ops Freeride skis. The Black Ops Sender TI model was crowned the winner in its category by the ISPO Award jury.

Alpina Sports is also exploring new ecological avenues and launching a completely sustainable back protector made from 100% sheep’s wool, obtained exclusively from sheep in Switzerland and Norway. The back protector, which consists of three layers of pressed sheep’s wool, meets the standards for protection class 1 and boasts all the impressive properties that the natural material has to offer: In icy temperatures it remains supple, can both warm and cool the wearer, and is odorless. The ISPO Award jury chose Alpina Sports’ “Prolan Vest” as the “Product of the Year”* in the Snowsports Hardware category.

Swedish label Spektrum uses plant-based polymers made from castor oil as well as corn and recycled polyester for its ski and snowboard goggles. The ISPO Award jury was extremely impressed with both the ecological aspects and the execution and named the “Östra Medium” model the Gold Winner.

WHERE I BELONG: Heimtextil stellt die Designtrends für 20/21 vor © Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH / Pietro Sutera
24.09.2019

“WHERE I BELONG”: HEIMTEXTIL PRESENTS THE DESIGN TRENDS FOR 2020/2021

„Heimtextil will launch the new 2020/2021 trend season with the general theme “WHERE I BELONG”. For the official Heimtextil Trend Preview, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam director Anne Marie Commandeur introduced the new design themes. The presentation in the run-up to Heimtextil (7-10 January 2020) took place at the Textile Museum’s Textile Lab in Tilburg, the Netherlands on 11 September 2019 and was streamed worldwide.

This season, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam is responsible for the Trend Book content and Trend Space implementation at the upcoming international trade fair for home and contract textiles. Alongside Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, London-based studio FranklinTill and Danish agency SPOTT trends & business contribu¬ted to the 20/21 global forecast for perspective-related interior design. Together with the Heimtextil management team, these Trend Council participants gave insights into future styles during a workshop.

„Heimtextil will launch the new 2020/2021 trend season with the general theme “WHERE I BELONG”. For the official Heimtextil Trend Preview, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam director Anne Marie Commandeur introduced the new design themes. The presentation in the run-up to Heimtextil (7-10 January 2020) took place at the Textile Museum’s Textile Lab in Tilburg, the Netherlands on 11 September 2019 and was streamed worldwide.

This season, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam is responsible for the Trend Book content and Trend Space implementation at the upcoming international trade fair for home and contract textiles. Alongside Stijlinstituut Amsterdam, London-based studio FranklinTill and Danish agency SPOTT trends & business contribu¬ted to the 20/21 global forecast for perspective-related interior design. Together with the Heimtextil management team, these Trend Council participants gave insights into future styles during a workshop.

At the annual international Trend Council workshop, identity was an ever-present topic: part of a broader discussion on gender and cultural diversity, on tolerance and curiosity. Today, the self-identification process seems more complex than ever. Identities are now formed through experiences that take place simultaneously, on different levels. Locally, nationally, globally, both online and offline. Identity therefore can consist of many different layers. In fact, individuals can all have multilayered identities.


Making Room for the Multifaceted Self
As an overarching theme, “WHERE I BELONG” addresses layered identities via the five diverse Heimtextil 20/21 trends. “Maximum Glam” turns the glamorous life tech-savvy, “Pure Spiritual” finds balance in nature and mysticism, “Active Urban” values utilitarian, adaptable solutions, whereas “Heritage Lux” celebrates rich historical legacies and “Multi-Local” embraces global cultural influences.

Reflecting on this year’s Heimtextil trend “WHERE I BELONG” shows one size does not fit all. To unravel and reveal the layers of our identities in an informative and inspiring way, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam invited four design studios and two photographers to capture the core of each theme. Each creative was assigned a theme matching their philosophy, practice and methodology, enabling them to bring a personal and authentic aspect to the stories.

Establishing five worlds as spaces to experience, made for with and of exhibitors’ products, the Trend Space will also realise 2D visualisations from the book as 3D spaces. Conceptual installations will actively engage visitors and motivate them to share their experiences by creating dynamic settings all about performance and interaction. Settings can be bizarre, beautiful, and at times bewildering: it’s now up to the visitors to define where they and their target customers belong.

Future Materials Library
A highlight of the Heimtextil Trend Space 2020 will be the Future Materials Library curated by FranklinTill, presenting emerging sustainable material innovation to the interior textile industry. Focused on material composition and manufacturing innovation, the library exhibits will provide invaluable insight and inspiration for visitors and exhibitors alike, complementing the curated showcase of aesthetic design and colour trends. Each showcased sample will feature on-point information about each material’s raw origins, manufacturing process and potential afterlife.

Material Manifesto
Heimtextil and the international trend team created a Material Manifesto outlining how to manage resources used during the event and avoid using new materials that can end up as waste when the exhibition closes. Through intelligent material choice, Stijlinstituut Amsterdam will reduce material impact to create an immersive forum with a minimal footprint.

Filling the 2,000 sqm Trend Space over four exhibition days is a challenge that the Heimtextil and Stijlinstituut Amsterdam teams must collaborate on to make a forum built primarily of textiles and inflatables with materials that can be reused after the event. Working according to the principles of circularity, these textiles fit for reuse will be combined with Messe Frankfurt stock components and rented and loaned materials. These installations go beyond decorative backdrops: they will tell distinctive stories representative of this year’s trends while meeting Heimtextil’s commitment to sustainability.

MAXIMUM GLAM
Pleasure seekers revel in layering theatrical influences and glamorous showtime aesthetics, forging a fantastic marriage between the crafted and digitally rendered. Textiles show a ‘more is more’ attitude through a mash-up of glam, gradients and spectrums, fake fur, pile and fringe, jacquard weaves and fantastic prints. The flashy, kitsch colour range becomes brutally glam thanks to electric sheen, synthetic shimmer, digital glitch and artful blur. A riot of clashes and rebellion.

PURE SPIRITUAL
Idealists seek perfection and purity, restoring equilibrium by connecting with the uber-natural. They embrace technology for good while shifting between realism and mysticism in pursuit of a personal haven. To address a renewed bond with nature, organic matter, raw materials and pure textiles are selected which show nature’s traces, organic structures and irregularities. Shades are created from the earth and cultured by man. An elemental and pure range reflects the source of their existence.

ACTIVE URBAN
Urban dwellers confront the challenges of the fast paced, shape-shifting, man-made environment by searching for utilitarian, adaptable solutions. They value tech performance while making smart use of available and renewable resources. Functionality is prioritised, while looking cool and working well remains key. Interior/sportswear hybrid textiles show smooth surfaces and a fun mash-up of graphic textures. The palette shows uniform blue, asphalt grey and caterpillar yellow.

HERITAGE LUX
Preservers of historic legacies treasure sensuousness alongside the uncanny, enlightenment together with darkness, for a whole new immersive experience. This new narrative translates to a love for luxury and splendour, decoration and embellishment. Finding beauty in history and nature through ornamental patterning and alluring surface enhancement. Reflecting on ancient history results in a palette featuring enigmatic blood red, sapphire and a lustrous mother-ofpearl.

MULTI-LOCAL
Hyper-locals go global, celebrating inclusivity over appropriation, honouring traditional craftsmanship and adjusting the world’s gaze to embrace exchange, creative integrity and diverse identities. Indigenous style meets global influences. This is a celebration of crafted and decorative pattern, from tribal and folkloric to geometric and abstract. Textile colours become part of a wider cultural narrative, linked to local community, cultural heritage and private identity.

Photo: PREMIÈRE VISION
16.07.2019

PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS IN 09/2019: SPORT, PERFORMANCE AND FASHION

THE INSEPARABLE TRIO UNVEILS ITS NEW STRENGTHS
The next edition of Première Vision Paris, taking place from 17 to 19 September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte, will present the new materials and creative stimuli for the autumn-winter 2020-21 season.

This major event for all fashion industry players brings together, twice a year, the six principle activities in the upstream sector: yarns, fabrics, leathers, designs, accessories and clothing. 

THE INSEPARABLE TRIO UNVEILS ITS NEW STRENGTHS
The next edition of Première Vision Paris, taking place from 17 to 19 September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte, will present the new materials and creative stimuli for the autumn-winter 2020-21 season.

This major event for all fashion industry players brings together, twice a year, the six principle activities in the upstream sector: yarns, fabrics, leathers, designs, accessories and clothing. 

In the spotlight: the pinnacle of sportswear, its influence on collections and the development of accompanying technological innovations and technical materials. To address these issues, which now permeate all of fashion, Première Vision’s Sport & Tech sector will be prominently featured at the next show. Located in the textile universe of Première Vision Fabrics, in Hall 6, it will bring together 80 exhibiting weavers - including 8 newcomers - to accompany brands and designers looking for inspiration. Their new products will be unveiled in a dedicated space, the Sport & Tech forum, designed around a core theme of «A matter of protection» (protection and innovation).
 
Sportswear gains ground, playing a major role in collections
The global sportswear market grew steadily between 2011 and 2016, reaching $280 billion in 20161. It has entered into consumer habits and is synonymous with comfort and technical expertise, as well as style and creativity. And France is no exception: according to a recent study2, French consumers wear sport clothes 1 day out of 5, and 25% of consumers see the latter as a «trend». This growing phenomenon has a significant influence on the industry and on those who design and produce clothing and accessories, whether fashion brands using technical materials for their ready-to-wear collections or sports brands developing lifestyle lines. It was to best support these brands that Première Vision developed an offer specially focused on this area within its flagship event: Première Vision Paris.
     
Protection and insulation: technological contributions
Each edition, the Première Vision teams identify a strong theme based on their international research. As sport wear collections grow increasingly popular, the added performance and technology in these product lines is becoming ever more critical. Consumers have been able to try out the innovative features integrated in their sport apparel for several years now, and expect the same functionality in their everyday clothing. «A matter of protection» has thus been selected as the season’s theme for the Sport & Tech sector. A fashion theme that will be particularly highlighted in the dedicated forum, which will present a broader offer of fabrics and high-performance materials from the show’s weavers, knitters and finishers to meet the needs of industry professionals.

Marguerite Coiraton, Show Manager of Première Vision Fabrics and in charge of the Sport & Tech trail, added: « The September 2019 edition is particularly interested in how clothes are used to protect against the elements, a theme which will certainly dominate the autumn-winter 20-21 collections. This concept encompasses, for example, insulation, with the development of thermo-active materials, fabrics and fibres equipped with nanotechnologies, and intelligent augmented protection».

In addition to the dedicated sector within Fabrics, Première Vision also offers a Sport & Tech itinerary - available on the show app - bringing together nearly 700 exhibitors specialised in sports and technical materials who can be found at the show. This complete panorama comprises spinners, weavers, knitters, tanners, accessory makers, textile designers and fashion manufacturers.
 
SPOTLIGHT ON: A preview of a selection of Sport & Tech exhibitors

  • Polartec: an insulation solution used by outdoor sports enthusiasts for nearly twenty years, Polartec® fabrics come in a variety of textures and weights and are specifically designed to improve performance in a wide range of environments;
  • Pontetorto SportSystem: founded in 1952, Pontetorto offers a wide range of products from polar fleeces to stretch fabrics, including multilayers, windproofs, waterproof membranes and breathable materials;
  • Schoeller textiles: a Swiss company specialised in developing innovative textiles, especially warm and resistant fabrics. ‘Cosmopolitan’, its multifunctional collection, perfectly meets the growing demand for high-performance style, with fabrics where outstanding performance features do not preclude a natural feel and perfect comfort;
  • Swing by Gruppocinque: an Italian fabric manufacturer using innovative technologies and finishings such as resins, membranes and high-performance treatments;
  • Mackent: has an offer of highly original textiles with a focus on shock-absorbing spacer knits for lingerie/ ready-to-wear pieces;
  • Sportwear Argentona: a Spanish brand specialising in fabric manufacturing, is presenting its ‘2.0 fabrics’ with excellent breathability and high comfort. These are adaptable, lightweight, elastic, compressing with an innovative aesthetic.
  • Global Merino: a maker of technical textiles using merino wool as a base product. It identifies the performance requirements of the item to be created and develops the fabric according to the end use;
  • Shepherd: a vertically integrated producer of merino knits and apparel, including the world’s finest 13.5-micron merino fabric.

New performance codes to better identify innovation
4 new Performance Codes will be introduced at Première Vision Paris in September 2019:  

  • Downproof, to indicate which fabrics will properly block feathers in quiltings;
  • Multilayer, used very often for fabrics for the world of sports performance;
  • Washable, for wash-resistant leathers;
  • Ultralight, used exclusively for accessory components.

A varied and experiential Sport & Tech universe
A.    A virtual reality experience so visitors can fully immerse themselves in the theme

To offer visitors a live experience, Première Vision has designed a digital animation about the theme of protection. Using virtual reality, it is designed to expose visitors to a variety of environments and external elements (cold, wind, etc.).

B.    Dedicated fashion information
Protection doesn’t preclude creativity and style, in fact quite the opposite is true. This season will be marked by fantasy, with materials combining strong colours, prints, motifs and shine. Visitors will thus find an exclusive and creative Sport & Tech forum, built around the following 4 themes: Tech Tailoring, Ski Touring, Soft Outdoor and Snow Fun. It will bring together samples, components and clothing prototypes.

C.    A comprehensive and high-level conference program to help guide visitors in their choices
This edition, the conferences will be held in very central locations at the show. A space in Hall 3 will host the conferences focusing on innovation, and a space in Hall 6 will be reserved for conferences on fashion trends.

Here are some of the upcoming presentations dedicated to the world of Sport & Tech (Hall 6 conference space) taking place at Première Vision Paris September 2019:

  • A conference by Pascal Monfort, founder of the REC trendsmarketing consulting firm, on the theme «The sport & fashion couple: more than ever inseparable!»;
  • The presentation of a study on sport and fashion conducted in the French market by Union Sport & Cycle, which assessed the expectations of 12,500 consumers;
  • Conferences decoding the fashion trends: « Performance, the challenge in fashion » and «Fashion & Sports major influences and innovations for AW 2021» including exhibitors’ pitchs to present their latest innovations.

Sources : 1: Euromonitor International, 2: « Union Sport & Cycle » Study

18.06.2019

BERLIN FASHION WEEK: 01 – 06 JULY 2019

After just a few seasons (since the founding of MBFW), Berlin has established itself as one of the top 5 fashion sites worldwide with up to 70,000 visitors, more than 30 fashion shows during the Fashion Week as well as numerous trade shows, events and showrooms.
In 2018, around 200,000 people came to visit the Fashion Week, further fueling the city’s economy with up to 120 million euros. The broad range of Berlin’s fashion sector offers everything. from high-end couture and tailoring to eco-fashion and streetwear, from single pieces to collections. Green Fashion and Upcycling are becoming increasingly important; more and more fashion labels in Berlin concern themselves with production according to ecological standards. Neonyt as well as other major trade shows are showcasing numerous brands of the Eco-Portfolio.

 
 

MBFW

After just a few seasons (since the founding of MBFW), Berlin has established itself as one of the top 5 fashion sites worldwide with up to 70,000 visitors, more than 30 fashion shows during the Fashion Week as well as numerous trade shows, events and showrooms.
In 2018, around 200,000 people came to visit the Fashion Week, further fueling the city’s economy with up to 120 million euros. The broad range of Berlin’s fashion sector offers everything. from high-end couture and tailoring to eco-fashion and streetwear, from single pieces to collections. Green Fashion and Upcycling are becoming increasingly important; more and more fashion labels in Berlin concern themselves with production according to ecological standards. Neonyt as well as other major trade shows are showcasing numerous brands of the Eco-Portfolio.

 
 

MBFW

In July 2019, MBFW will showcase its fashion-focused, approachable concept according to the new claim „Follow MBFW – Focus Fashion“. Within the modern and digital format that successfully launched in 2018, Mercedes-Benz and creative agency NOWADAYS band together to further strongly promote Berlin as fashion location and offer an attention-drawing platform for upcoming designers as well as established fashion brands to present their collections twice a year. The collections for Spring/Summer 2020 will be presented at ewerk located in Wilhelmstraße, Berlin-Mitte. With its raw industrial look, the location offers excellent conditions to create an authentic atmosphere where high-end fashion is the centre of attention. Within the new concept, MBFW focuses on remarkably staged presentations by a selected number of designer labels and brands in one location. Fashion interested end-consumers have the chance to watch all MBFW shows live at the forecourt of the venue or follow via digital channels like the website www.mbfw.berlin or on Instagram: @MBFW.berlin.

Monday 1.7.2019 – Wednesday 3.7.2019
LOCATION ewerk Berlin
Wilhelmstraße 43
10117 Berlin
CONTACT buero@mbfw.berlin
WEB  www.mbfw.berlin    

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PLATFORM FOR ADVANCED CONTEMPORARY FASHION

Begun in January 2019, the focus this season continues to be on the restructuring of the halls. The goal is to amalgamate the theme areas more precisely and make it easier for visitors to gain an overview, as well as to inspire them and appeal to their emotions. The exhibitors will present key looks rather than huge collections.On top of this we see the recurrence of a trusty PREMIUM theme: sustainability. As a result of this, there will be no plastic in the catering areas; a strong focus on rubbish sorting; and specific promotion of eco-brands.

PREMIUM has been the leading trade show among the most important international trade events since 2003, as well as the most relevant business and networking platform for advanced contemporary fashion. PREMIUM continually aims to inspire, strengthen business relationships and promote discussion across disciplines. B2B services are constantly being perfected and developed together with the key players in the industry.


Tuesday, 2.7.2019, 10am–7pm
Wednesday, 3.7.2019, 10am–7pm
Thursday, 4.7.2019, 10am–5pm
LOCATION STATION-Berlin
Luckenwalder Strasse 4–6
10963 Berlin
CONTACT PREMIUM Exhibitions GmbH
 +49 (0) 3062 908 50
 info@premiumexhibitions.com
WEB www.premiumexhibitions.com
www.facebook.com/PREMIUMBERLIN
www.instagram.com/PREMIUMBERLIN
www.twitter.com/PREMIUMBERLIN    

PANORAMA BERLIN
PANORAMA EXPEDITION

PANORAMA BERLIN is the groundbreaking meeting point for decision makers in the fashion and lifestyle business. Since its premiere in January 2013, it has become one of the most relevant European fashion platforms and, as the leading trade fair for Berlin Fashion Week, represents a comprehensive overview of national and international women & menswear.
Twice a year, together with the Tradeshow for Quality Garments SELVEDGE RUN & ZEITGEIST and the sustainable fashion show XOOM, PANORAMA BERLIN is an "all-in-one event" for international brands, which are divided into various sectors: smart formalwear, casual and sportswear, contemporary styles, denim, heritage and streetwear, accessories and shoes as well as sustainable fashion and lifestyle products.
Following the realignment in January 2019, PANORAMA BERLIN will be taking place from 2 to 4 July 2019 under the motto "BERLIN VIBES" and will focus on the topics of infotainment, eventisation and matchmaking. The concentration continues to target brands with relevance and clear messages. More sophisticated presentations, trend capsules and limited editions, which can only be found in Berlin, stage fashion in an exciting lifestyle context. From furniture to beauty products: In new, central concept store areas in halls 1 to 4, brands and products are presented in a new exciting relationship, providing a wealth of inspiration in terms of presentation and composition. Under the motto "Knowledge to go", PANORAMA BERLIN will be presenting a wide-ranging lecture program with leading keynote speakers in the Retail Solutions Hall on a wide range of future topics relating to international trends in retail, marketing, e-commerce and digitization.

Tuesday, 2.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Wednesday, 3.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Thursday, 4.7.2019, 9am–5pm
LOCATION PANORAMA BERLIN
ExpoCenter City
Eingang Süd/Jafféstraße
14055 Berlin
CONTACT PANORAMA Fashion Fair Berlin GmbH
+49 (0) 3027 595 604 0
office@panorama-berlin.com
WEB www.panorama-berlin.com
www.facebook.com/panoramafashionfairberlin
www.instagram.com/panoramafashionfair

 SHOW & ORDER X PREMIUM
TRADE SHOW FOR FASHION, LIFESTYLE & EXPERIENCE

Thanks to the special department store concept, SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM is different to other trade shows. Buyers gain inspiration and stories not only from the family atmosphere, but also from the spacious Experience Floor. In addition, the Beauty Lounge will be there again: the place to go to enjoy a quick freshen-up during the hustle and bustle of Fashion Week. It’s not just the KÜHLHAUS itself that has lots to offer again in July 2019 – the Outside Area, too, will be equipped for hot summer days with a beach lounge, bar and mouth-watering catering. Trade show for fashion, lifestyle & experience Over six partly open, gallery-like floors around 200 fashion brands will be exhibiting alongside beauty products, interior and design pieces, stationery, books, art, music, fragrances and magazines, as well as innovative food concepts, located in various experience spaces on the different floors of the KÜHLHAUS. The building is situated on the STATION-Berlin premises very close by to PREMIUM.

Tuesday, 2.7.2019, 10am–7pm
Wednesday, 3.7.2019, 10am–7pm
Thursday, 4.7.2019, 10am–5pm
LOCATION Kühlhaus
Etage 1–5
Luckenwalder Strasse 3
10963 Berlin
WEB www.showandorder.de
www.facebook.com/ShowandOrder

#FASHIONTECH BERLIN

#FASHIONTECH BERLIN, held twice a year during Berlin Fashion Week, is the leading tech conference for the fashion industry, discussing topics around digital transformation, innovations and disruptive technologies. Featuring keynote presentations with international experts on stage (#LISTEN!), interactive masterclasses to boost your specialist knowledge (#LEARN!) and the Exhibition Area, where visitors will be introduced to the latest developments, products and innovations on the market (#EXPERIENCE!), #FASHIONTECH Berlin has evolved to become a leading European content hub for technology, digitalisation, sustainability and innovation.
#FASHIONTECH BERLIN also creates the stage for interdisciplinary exchange between different industries. The networking areas give visitors the opportunity to network with the speakers, industry insiders and entrepreneurs, as well as to seek out new business partners and generate business leads. Since digitalisation has affects every aspect of modern lifestyle, FASHIONTECH BERLN is looking into the latest trends that shape our lives.

TOPICS OF OUR TIME IN THE ERA OF DIGITALISATION

  • DIGITAL BUSINESS
  • STREET CULTURE
  • E-SPORTS & GAMING IN FASHION
  • SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

 

Thursday, 4.7.2019, 10am–6.30pm
LOCATION Festsaal Kreuzberg
Am Flutgraben 2
12435 Berlin
CONTACT Michael Stracke
hello@fashiontech.berlin
WEB www.fashiontech.berlin
www.facebook.com/FashionTechBerlinConference
www.instagram.com/Fashiontech_berlin/
www.twitter.com/fashiontechber

FASHIONSUSTAIN BERLIN

Technology, sustainability and innovation are important drivers of the fashion and textile industry that will revolutionize the sector and its processes and production methods. On Wednesday and Thursday, 3/4 July 2019, the international conference format Fashionsustain is dedicated to precisely these topics.
The up-coming edition of Fashionsustain will be dedicated to the subject of water – from microplastics to water stewardship. Highprofile speakers from innovative companies will be presenting visionary approaches to help preserve this vital resource. In addition, the summer edition of Fashionsustain focuses on retail. This involves margins, assortments, collections, POS solutions and the communication of sustainability issues.
And the topics discussed on the conference stage will be brought to life in the “Showcase of Change” exhibition area. But taking place before that, from 1 to 2 July 2019, is the Thinkathon – a space for open dialogue and creative thinking processes. Fashionsustain is part of Neonyt, the global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation (2 to 4 July 2019) – organized by Messe Frankfurt.


Wednesday, 3.7.2019, 10am–6pm
Thursday, 4.7.2019, 10am–6pm
LOCATION Kraftwerk Berlin
Upper level
Köpenicker Straße 70
10179 Berlin
CONTACT Falco Fuchs
Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH
+49 6975 755 938
falco.fuchs@messefrankfurt.com
WEB www.fashionsustain.com
www.facebook.com/FashionSustain
www.instagram.com/fashionsustain.berlin 

SEEK – A COMMON GROUND FOR INDIVIDUALS IN FASHION

The concept of the Trade Union, which was developed by SEEK Director Maren Wiebus and her team, will continue and will be polished from time to time.        
The bringing together of pioneers and industry visionaries will continue to have its dedicated space for promoting discussion, inspiration and food for thought. SEEK goes charity again! After the overwhelming success of the first initiative with One Warm Winter in January, SEEK and the Berlinbased NGO are planning to collect sneakers for the homeless this summer in front of the location during the show, but also before and after by collaborating partner stores. The project is supported by Sneaker Freaker.
Many reasons to celebrate: 60th birthday of Alpha Industries, 100th birthday of Champion and Farah plus a special Event OVERKILL x ASICSTIGER x SEEK Block Party Vol. 2 Fashion. Trade. Show. Each season, SEEK, the Voice of Street Culture, presents selected streetwear and urbanwear pieces that translate the current lifestyle trends for the industry. SEEK stands for democracy and fairness, clarity, friendliness and honesty, in keeping with the motto of “what you see is what you get”. The focus is on carefully selected style tribes that embody the modern zeitgeist and guarantee SEEK’s visitors valuable inspiration.

Tuesday, 2.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Wednesday, 3.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Thursday, 4.7.2019, 9am–5pm
LOCATION ARENA Berlin
Eichenstrasse 4
12435 Berlin
CONTACT info@seekexhibitions.com
WEB www.seekexhibitions.com
www.facebook.com/seekberlin

SELVEDGE RUN & ZEITGEIST

The show will be all about quality and trust.
After the successful merger with Panorama Berlin, the architecturally impressive hall at the south entrance of the Berlin Expo Center is the new home of Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist. As an integrated part of Panorama Berlin, the tradeshow for quality garments and crafted goods presents a unique exhibitor mix of the latest streetwear topics, which are highly relevant for the market, such as: denim, craft, current and outdoor. The brand list of Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist includes international iconic and heritage brands and distinctive products, some of which can only be seen in Europe exclusively in Berlin.
In July 2019, Selvedge Run & Zeitgeist will again be the hot spot for the community, offering a meeting place with like-minded people and food & drinks to discover the best quality brands and meet buyers from all over the world. In the integrated "Marketplace" you will find curated concept brands that can be ordered as well as bought directly.

Tuesday, 2.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Wednesday, 3.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Thursday, 4.7.2019, 9am–5pm
LOCATION PANORAMA BERLIN
ExpoCenter City
South Entrance/Jafféstrasse
14055 Berlin
CONTACT info@selvedgerun.com
+49 (0) 3027 595 604 0
WEB www.selvedgerun.com
www.facebook.com/selvedgerun
www.instagram.com/selvedgerun
www.vimeo.com/selvedgerun

NEONYT – GLOBAL HUB FOR FASHION, SUSTAINABILITY AND INNOVATION

Changing fashion together. Through collaboration, communication and entrepreneurship. That is the vision of Neonyt, the global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation.With its hub concept, Neonyt combines the most important elements of the fashion industry – style, business, inspiration, knowledge, fun and community – in a neo-new way. The hub is made up of the Neonyt Trade Show, the conferences Fashionsustain and the design-thinking format Thinkathon, showcases, the influencer and blogger event Prepeek, networking events and, last but not least, the Neonyt Party.
The Neonyt Trade Fair will present a good balance of leading brands and newcomers – from contemporary, casual and urbanwear to denim, streetwear and sportswear down to business outfits. In addition to men’s, ladies’ and kidswear, the assortment of products on show also includes outdoorwear, shoes, accessories, jewellery and beauty. Neonyt is organized by Messe Frankfurt.

Tuesday, 2.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Wednesday, 3.7.2019, 9am–6pm
Thursday, 4.7.2019, 9am–5pm
LOCATION Kraftwerk Berlin
Köpenicker Straße 70
10179 Berlin
WEB www.neonyt.com
www.facebook.com/Neonytberlin
www.instagram.com/neonyt.berlin

More information:
Berlin Fashion Week
Source:

Berlin Fashion Week

Photo: pasja1000 Pixabay
19.03.2019

SRI LANKA'S APPAREL AND TEXTILE EXPORTS RECEIVE A BOOST

  • Modernization of production facilities required

Thanks to the reactivated GSP import status of the European Union, Sri Lanka's textile and clothing industry is looking to the future with confidence and expects better sales opportunities abroad.

The textile and clothing industry is of macroeconomic importance for Sri Lanka. The sector accounted for almost 43 per cent of the country's total exports in 2018 and provides employment for nearly 350,000 workers in the formal sector and about twice as many in the informal sector. In total, this is about 33 percent of all jobs in the manufacturing industry. The majority of employees are women.

  • Modernization of production facilities required

Thanks to the reactivated GSP import status of the European Union, Sri Lanka's textile and clothing industry is looking to the future with confidence and expects better sales opportunities abroad.

The textile and clothing industry is of macroeconomic importance for Sri Lanka. The sector accounted for almost 43 per cent of the country's total exports in 2018 and provides employment for nearly 350,000 workers in the formal sector and about twice as many in the informal sector. In total, this is about 33 percent of all jobs in the manufacturing industry. The majority of employees are women.

The textile and clothing industry contribute around 6 percent to the gross domestic product (GDP). "In view of the development of other sectors, it is very unlikely that another industry will reach this level of performance in the short to medium term," Jeevani Siriwardena, head of the Export Development Board (EDB), said in an interview with Germany Trade and Invest. The textile and clothing industry will continue to be an important sector for the Sri Lankan economy.

Short to medium-term prospects are good
On May 18th 2017, the European Union (EU) reactivated the Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) status for Sri Lanka after a seven-year time-out. This means that when goods are exported to the EU, the island state is exempted from customs duties on more than 66 percent of customs tariff lines. "Without GSP status, Sri Lanka's export losses are said to have cost around 32 billion between 2010 and 2017," stressed Ravindi Ranaraja, Deputy Head of the Export Service Division of EDB, in a GTAI interview. In particular, the strongly export-oriented clothing and textile industry will benefit from the regained GSP status. Sri Lanka's textile and clothing industry is looking to the future with confidence and also expects better sales opportunities abroad.

Sri Lanka's textile and clothing exports to the EU and Germany in 2018
(in USD million; change year-on-year in %)  
HS-Code Definition
 
EU
 
Change
 
Germany *) Change
 
61 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted 1,177 0.7 232.55 9.6
62 Garments and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted 874 7.6 151.59 18.1
63 Other made-up textile articles; sets worn clothing and used textile articles 52 18.2 7.8 13.5
Total   2,103 3.9 391.92 12.8

*) Estimation
Sources: Sri Lanka Apparel Exporters Association; press releases; calculations by Germany Trade & Invest; Destatis, February 2019

Positive impulses are already visible. According to the latest foreign trade figures available, Sri Lanka was able to increase its total exports of textiles and clothing (HS codes 61, 62 and 63) by almost 4.8 percent to approximately USD 5 billion in 2018. Exports to the EU increased by 3.9 percent to USD 2.1 billion. Exports to Germany were able to recover a plus of 12.8 percent.

It is not yet certain that Sri Lanka will be able to make up for the losses of the past. In the meantime, countries such as Bangladesh, India and Pakistan, which have already enjoyed tariff concessions in foreign trade with the EU for the entire current decade, have passed by the island state. Bangladesh in particular, recorded a strong increase in its clothing and textile exports compared with Sri Lanka..

Sri Lanka textile and clothing exports 2018 (HS codes 61, 62, 63)
Country In USD million 1)
China 172.4
Vietnam 36.0
Bangladesh 32.9
India 20.9
Indonesia 2) 14.0

1) Estimation; 2) Forecast
Sources: Press Releases; Calculations Germany Trade & Invest, February 2019

Sri Lanka focuses on higher quality products
Numerous domestic textile producers are switching to the production of higher-quality garments in order to maintain their competitiveness. "In Sri Lanka, the focus is not on mass but rather on higher quality products," confirmed M. Raghuram, Chief Executive Officer of Brandix, one of the country's largest clothing companies, in an interview with GTAI. The island state concentrates on the production of just a few product categories such as underwear, sportswear or lounge wear..

Sri Lanka has become a location for the manufacture of high-quality garments. This is also confirmed by the World Bank. In its 2016 study "Stitches to Riches" (website), it found that Sri Lanka outperformed its competitors India, Pakistan and Bangladesh in terms of quality, delivery times, reliability and sustainable social responsibility.

Sri Lanka serves fastidious international companies such as Victoria Secrets, GAP, Nike or Marks and Spencer. According to expert estimates, the production of the top 10 Sri Lankan textile and clothing companies accounts for around 85 percent of the industry's total exports.

The ambitious goal is to increase the garment industry's export revenues to USD 8 billion by 2025, which will require an annual growth of 6 percent. For this Sri Lanka must improve capacity, technology and resource problems. "It is becoming more and more difficult to find suitable personnel. For many young people working in the garment and textile industry in Sri Lanka is simply unattractive”, Nilanthi Sivapragasam, Chief Financial Officer of the conglomerate Aitkence Spence, told GTAI. The training of the workforce is also a major challenge. "Training new employees is very time-consuming and labor-intensive," confirms Sivapragasam.

Imports of German machinery decline
In addition, Sri Lanka's textile companies must modernize their machinery and expand their capacities in order to further increase productivity and added value. Accordingly, there is a great demand for technically sophisticated textile machines in the country. This offers good opportunities and chances for machine suppliers. According to experts, the demand for textile printing and dyeing machines, stenter frames and finishing technology will develop particularly dynamically in the future.
 
In Sri Lanka itself only relatively simple machines are being produced. High-end technology is mainly imported. China is the most important supplier of textile machinery, accounting for about one third of all imports. India has also been able to significantly increase its machine exports to Sri Lanka in recent years. In 2017, India achieved exports of USD 6.3 million, an increase of 46.7 percent, compared with exports of USD 2.6 million in 2010.

German machine exports suffered enormous losses. Sri Lanka's imports of textile machinery from Germany amounted to USD 16.5 million in 2017, a decrease of 54.2 percent. Over the past years, Germany has lost share of its deliveries. According to industry experts, this trend will continue: Made in Germany stands for quality and continues to be very popular in Sri Lanka; however, German machine manufacturers are often unable to keep up with the low-cost products from China or India.

Sri Lanka's imports of textile and clothing machinery
(SITC 724; USD million) 
Country 2016 2017 Change
China 56.3 51.8 -8.0
Japan 26.6 18.3 -31.1
Germany 36.0 16.5 -54.2
Singapore 13.6 14.5 -6.8
India 4.3 6.3 46.7
Total 192.8 155.3 -19.5

Source: UN Comtrade, March 2019

Contact addresses
Title Internet address Remark
Germany Trade & Invest http://www.gtai.de/srilanka Foreign trade information for the German export industry
AHK Sri Lanka http://www.srilanka.ahk.de Contact point for German companies
Sri Lanka Export Development Board http://www.srilankabusiness.com/edb State organization responsible for the development and promotion of exports in Sri Lanka. 

 

More information:
Sri Lanka
Source:

Heena Nazir, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

Foto: Pixabay
17.12.2018

PRICE WAR ON POLAND'S CLOTHING MARKET GETS TOUGHER

  • Online sales increase

Warsaw (GTAI) - More and more clothing and shoe companies are merging in Poland. Demand is growing, but the price pressure is increasing. Customers appreciate the quality of German brand products.
Sales of clothing and footwear in Poland are rising steadily. However, the price war is becoming increasingly fierce: off-price shops offering branded goods at low prices, online shops and outlet centers are putting pressure on retailers and lowering the average returns.
Demand will receive an additional boost at the end of the year, as clothing and shoes are popular Christmas gifts. According to a survey by the consulting firm Deloitte, Polish families want to spend an average of EUR 271 on the occasion of the 2018 season, - 6 percent more than in 2017. German branded products are highly valued for their quality.

  • Online sales increase

Warsaw (GTAI) - More and more clothing and shoe companies are merging in Poland. Demand is growing, but the price pressure is increasing. Customers appreciate the quality of German brand products.
Sales of clothing and footwear in Poland are rising steadily. However, the price war is becoming increasingly fierce: off-price shops offering branded goods at low prices, online shops and outlet centers are putting pressure on retailers and lowering the average returns.
Demand will receive an additional boost at the end of the year, as clothing and shoes are popular Christmas gifts. According to a survey by the consulting firm Deloitte, Polish families want to spend an average of EUR 271 on the occasion of the 2018 season, - 6 percent more than in 2017. German branded products are highly valued for their quality.

Sales of clothing and footwear in Poland (EUR billion)
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
6.9 7.4 7.7 7.8 8.4

Source: Euromonitor International

The US chain TK Maxx already operates 43 off-price stores in Poland. The assortment includes various goods - from household goods to clothing - which are greatly reduced. Neinver from Spain currently operates four outlet centers under the name "Factory" in Poland. There are two in Warsaw and one each in Krakow and Poznan.
Neinver plans to use the commercial park Futura Ursus in Warsaw commercially in the future. In total, there are a good dozen outlet centers in Poland. On the site of the Galeria Rumia shopping center in the town with the same name northwest of Gdynia, the Pomerania Outlet center is planning to open at the end of 2019 with 80 shops.
The German online retailer Zalando is with its shopping club Zalando Lounge for special offers present in Poland, It has set up a logistics center in Olsztynek (Hohenstein), primarily for further expansion in Europe with this concept. Discount chains such as Biedronka and Lidl are also offering inexpensive clothing.

Sector consolidates
The growing pressure of competition and prices is leading to further consolidation among domestic companies in the sector. Various mergers are emerging. The Vistula Group will take over its competitor the men's outfitter Bytom already in 2018. The antitrust authority UOKiK has already approved the merger. From 2020 on the Group expects this to generate additional revenue of around EUR 1.9 million to EUR 2.3 million annually.
The acquisition of the apparel company Simple Creative Products S.A. (Gino Rossi Group from Slupsk) with its brand Simple for upmarket women's clothing by Monnari Trade S.A. cracked in November 2018. Simple is represented with 63 salons and Monnari with 163 stores in Poland.
OTCF, a company specializing in sportswear, owns the sports brand 4F with over 200 stores in Poland. OTCF has a strong presence abroad. Gino Rossi owns a total of around 90 shoe salons in Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Market leader LPP expands
The largest clothing company, LPP from Gdansk, continues to expand. It opened its 20th store in September 2018 with the name of its largest brand Reserved in Germany. The LPP's shops are located in the capitals of the federal states and other commercial metropolises. LPP has set up its latest store in the Zeil shopping mile in Frankfurt. According to its deputy chairman, Slawomir Loboda, LPP with Reserved generated higher revenues abroad than domestically in the second quarter of 2018.
LPP not only wants to open further stores in Western Europe, but is also aiming for other markets. In November 2018, first sales salons of the LPP brands Reserved, House, Mohito and Sinsay followed in Almaty in Kazakhstan. These brands can be purchased in Germany via online trade. The German market is LPP's fifth largest foreign market in terms of turnover.

Revenues of the largest clothing and shoe companies in the first half of 2018 (in EUR million, change to the first half of 2017 on a Zloty basis in %)
Name of company Revenue Change
LPP 844.3 18.0
CCC (shoes) 471.0 9.6
Vistula Group 82.4 14.8
Redan 63.5 -1.0
TXM 38.4 0
Monnari 24.9 5.9
Wojas (shoes) 24.4 -3.1
Bytom 22.1 12.3
Gino Rossi (shoes) 1) 20.5 -8.4
CDRL (Coccodrillo chain for children's clothing) 2) 15.6 3.0

1) without Simple; 2) in Poland
Source: Company data according to daily newspaper Rzeczpospolita

CCC does not rely on the online segment only
The country's largest shoe company, the CCC Group, which is also expanding strongly abroad - including Germany - already achieved a fifth (19.8 percent) of its turnover with its online trade in the first half of 2018. The online sales were very successful: In the first three quarters of 2018 the revenues on a zloty basis rose by 59 percent compared to January to September 2017 to EUR 150.3 million.
An important platform for CCC online trading is eObuwie.pl, in which CCC holds a 75 percent stake. There are plans to place eObuwie.pl at the Warsaw Stock Exchange. eObuwie.pl intends to use the result to expand and strengthen its logistics. At its location in Zielona Gora (Grünberg), eObuwie.pl is building a modern, automated warehouse.

Online shoe trade relies on 3D models of feet
According to eObuwie.pl chairman Marcin Grzymkowski, who holds 25 percent of the shares the platform wants to use the esize.me scanner in order to motivate more Poles to buy shoes online. This scans feet and creates accurate 3D models of them. Based on these, virtual shoes will be selected that guarantee the best possible fit. It is planned to place such scanners at around at 40 locations in shopping centers. So far, according to estimates by eObuwie.pl, only 10 percent of Poles buy shoes online, as the daily Rzeczpospolita reports. In spring 2019 eObuwie.pl plans to establish an e-shop for high-quality clothing.
CCC already ordered shoes from Gino Rossi to distribute them through eObuwie.pl. Now the group wants to offer these articles also in stationary shops at home and abroad. Therefore CCC intends to acquire approximately 120,000 pairs of shoes from Gino Rossi in 2019 and approximately 180,000 pairs in 2020. After all, orders are expected to increase to around 500,000 pairs per year. Gino Rossi has factories in Slupsk and Elblag.

CCC will also acquire the license to use and sublicense the Gino Rossi brand name. The group may design its own shoe models under this brand name. Special collections are to be sold in around 200 selected CCC stationary stores among other countries in Poland and the Czech Republic. Through the agreement with CCC, Gino Rossi plans to earn an additional EUR 3.5 to 4.2 million in 2019 and EUR 8.4 to 9.3 million in 2020.

 

 

 

More information:
GTAI Polen
Source:

Beatrice Repetzki, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

06.02.2018

POLES ARE INCREASINGLY BUYING CLOTHING ONLINE

  • Retail consolidates 
  • Market leader LPP continues to expand

Apparel and footwear sales in Poland are rising by around 5 percent annually. An increasing proportion of sales is generated online. The German discounter chain KiK is spreading successfully. There are market niches for high-quality fashion from Germany. The leading domestic retail chain LPP is expanding at home and abroad. It not only invests in new designs but also in the online segment. The retail structure is becoming firmer.

The Polish retail trade in clothing and footwear is consolidating. The number of stores drops by about 1,000 a year. The main reason, according to the daily Rzeczpospolita, is the growing online trade. For large retail chains, active in both local and virtual trading, this trend is not negative: they are even opening up more traditional sales stores and increasing their sales.

  • Retail consolidates 
  • Market leader LPP continues to expand

Apparel and footwear sales in Poland are rising by around 5 percent annually. An increasing proportion of sales is generated online. The German discounter chain KiK is spreading successfully. There are market niches for high-quality fashion from Germany. The leading domestic retail chain LPP is expanding at home and abroad. It not only invests in new designs but also in the online segment. The retail structure is becoming firmer.

The Polish retail trade in clothing and footwear is consolidating. The number of stores drops by about 1,000 a year. The main reason, according to the daily Rzeczpospolita, is the growing online trade. For large retail chains, active in both local and virtual trading, this trend is not negative: they are even opening up more traditional sales stores and increasing their sales.

Sales of clothing and footwear in Poland (EUR billion)
2013 2014 2015 2016 2018 *)
6.9 7.4 7.7 7.8 8.4

*) Estimation

Source: Market research Company PMR

Small businesses do not have these options. They have difficulties to survive in the tough price competition and are in part pushed out of the market. Additional competition is coming d from discount and hypermarkets that are further broadening their apparel range. These include not only large grocery chains such as Biedronka, Tesco and Lidl, but also the specialized textile discounters Pepco with almost 780 and KiK with over 200 clothing stores. They are also pursuing further expansion plans.

Number of shops for clothing and shoes
2016 2017 2018 *)
39,000 38,000 37,000

*Forecast

Source: Euromonitor International

According to a report by the market research firm Gemius apparel and accessories form the product group that Internet users most frequently order on the net,. By contrast shoes occupy only the seventh place. In Poland, however, only a few percent of the sales of clothing account for the Internet. The growth potential therefor is still considerable. Large companies could double their online sales annually.

Online purchases of individual product groups by Internet users 2017
Product group Entries in %
Clothing, accessoires 72
Book, CD 68
Small electronic devices 56
House, audio-, video equipment 55
Cinema and theatre tickets 54
Cosmetics, parfumes 51
Shoes 49
Computer and similar devices 48
Sportswear 46

Source: Gemius

So far, auction platforms have played the biggest role in online apparel purchases, according to Instytut Badan Rynkowych i Spolecznych (IBRiS, Institute for Market and Society Research) in a survey of Internet users for Rzeczpospolita..

Proportion of online procurement sources of clothing in Poland (in %)
Auction platforms Brand stores Stores with many brands Others
39.2 38.2 13.7 8.9

Source: IBRiS

LPP opens 50 sales salons

Notwithstanding the e-commerce boom, the leading retailer LPP, which includes the brands Reserved, Mohito, Cropp, Sinsay and House is continuing to expand its retail space. This contains already a total of just over 1 million square meters. By mid-2017, LPP owned 1,710 stores in just under 20 countries. In September, the company from Gdansk opened the first Reserved boutique in the United Kingdom on London's Oxford Street. LPP revenue increased on a zloty basis in by 17% in 2017 to almost EUR 1.7 billion.

LPP wants to expand further in 2018, according to its Deputy Chairman Przemyslaw Lutkiewicz. The chain plans to open around 50 new sales stores at home and abroad. New markets are to be developed: Kazakhstan, Israel and Slovenia. In the future, LPP wants also to be represented with its most important brand Reserved in Paris and Milan. In addition to an internet shop since mid-2017, the company already operates 19 sales salons in Germany.

LPP is constantly bringing new products to market. According to its chairman, Marek Piechocki, the company aims to have 2,000 people working on its research and development (R & D) projects by the end of 2018. That would be a number of 800 specialists more than in autumn of 2017. The research and development budget should be increased to EUR 48 million and will be used especially for the design of new clothes.

So far, 810 fashion designers have been designing around 40,000 garments annually for LPP. The shops are staffed by 40 architects and coordinators. About 250 programmers introduce new technologies, especially in the field of e-commerce. LPP wants to triple the number of IT experts in a medium term. In fall of 2017 the share of online sales of LPP brands was 4 percent. It should even double by 2020.

Premium brands are increasing

The Spanish company Inditex with its brands Zara, Oysho and Pull & Bear is not missing in any shopping center in Poland. It should therefore continue to expand there as well. The Swedish H & M is developing not only its online business but its retail business as well and will open a new store in Tychy in March 2018.
In view of the increasing employment rate and the purchasing power of the Poles, the sales opportunities for high-quality clothing from Germany are also rising. Among other things the potential can be seen in the domestic Grupa Vistula, which increased the Polish retail space of its elegant brands Vistula, Wolczanka, Deni Cler and W.Kruk in 2017 by 9 percent to almost 33,500 square meters. Additional space is added on a franchise basis. The men's outfit Bytom, whose merger with Vistula persist in persistent rumors, is expanding its trading base.

Footwear company CCC is growing abroad

The Polish shoe group CCC, consisting of the largest domestic shoe manufacturer and the operator of the CCC retail chain, generated revenues of more than EUR 984 million in 2017. This was around EUR 235 million more than in 2016. The stationary CCC stores earned EUR 796 million (+24 percent on a zloty basis).
The group wants to expand accordingly. Among others seven stores should be opened or expanded in Austria in 2018 while three new branches will be set up in Croatia and Slovenia. CCC operates more than 900 shoe stores in 16 countries, including 77 in Germany and 45 in Austria.
In September 2017, CCC secured EUR 127 million from investors for the expansion of its online activities through the issue of new shares at the Warsaw Stock Exchange. In some markets, such as Greece, CCC is exclusively virtual on a customer hunt. In Poland e-commerce is also picking up its speed: the online business of the eObuwie.pl group increased its revenue in 2017 by 111.5 percent over the previous year to more than EUR 142 million.

Performance Days November 2017 © Performance Days
28.11.2017

NEW RECORDS SET AGAIN AT PERFORMANCE DAYS IN MUNICH

The recently concluded trade fair once again demonstrates: The PERFORMANCE DAYS concept works! At the 19th edition of the trade fair for functional fabrics and sport accessories, new top ratings were achieved in all areas.

The recently concluded trade fair once again demonstrates: The PERFORMANCE DAYS concept works! At the 19th edition of the trade fair for functional fabrics and sport accessories, new top ratings were achieved in all areas.
Innovation is the specialty at PERFORMANCE DAYS. The functional fabric trade fair has a reputation for being the first to show the newest trends way ahead of the other trade fairs and industry gatherings. The fair offers several unique tools such as the Focus Topic, the PERFORMANCE FORUM with the PERFORMANCE TABLES and the PERFORMANCE WALL, the PERFORMANCE AWARDS, the comprehensive presentation and workshop program as well as the guided tours. What makes this fair so special? Not only the free admission to the fair, but all of the top quality programs are also free of charge! So much commitment to service and trend scouting pays off: The recent trade fair held on November 8-9th, 2017 at the MTC in Munich once again broke all previous records!

Visitor and Exhibitor plus
The halls of the MTC were filled to maximum capacity and recorded significantly more visitors than the previous fair last April and even more than the fair in November 2016. The number of trade visitors rose from 1868 in November 2016, to 2001 breaking the 2000 mark for the first time. This growth corresponds to a 7.1 percent increase. In comparison to the previous year, the number of exhibitors was also greater in autumn 2017, registering a 9.9 percent increase. A total of 177 exhibitors from 23 countries occupied all of the halls to capacity, confirming the decision to relocate to the halls of Messe München, which is scheduled for November 2018. Even now, shortly after opening the exhibitor registration period, demand is already higher than the number of available spaces.

The move to Riem
When the doors of PERFORMANCE DAYS open next year on November 28-29th, 2018, the trade fair will be celebrating not only its 10-year anniversary, but also the first edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS at the new location. In the future, one of the large halls on the exhibition grounds in Munich-Riem will be provided twice a year for functional fabrics. For the debut, it will be located in Hall C1, with easy access via the north-west entrance from the west parking garage.

All highlights also provided online
As usual, when the most recent exhibit comes to a successful close, a special service is made available to all those who did not have enough time: All the highlights and important information like the presentations (also as a podcast!), as well as all the fabrics at the Forum will be available directly at www.performancedays.com. Even more interesting for you: Samples of all featured PERFORMANCE FORUM fabrics can be ordered online, which means direct sourcing of materials is now possible from the comfort of your office.
A special highlight of the past exhibition was the Focus Topic "Thermal Technologies – From Fibre to Smart Textiles." The topic covered the entire spectrum of heat retention and generation in sports clothing, as well as the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. The award winner was Pontetorto for the development of the first fleece to be produced with a brushed inside and with particles and fibers that are biodegradable even in sea-water. This innovation was a joint development between Vaude and Lenzing. The workshop presented by Ana Kristiansson about the possibilities of founding a sportswear brand was also very well received.
Besides the familiar exhibitors like Invista, Cocona/37.5, Lenzing, Microban, 3M, bluesign, Burlington, Dyneema, Nilit, Outlast, Pertex, Polartec, Pontetorto, PrimaLoft, Schoeller, Singtex, Sympatex, Südwollle, Toray, and YKK; the Messe welcomed new exhibitors like Freudenberg Performance Materials, Clo Insulation, Flying Textile, Inuheat Group, ISKO ARQUAS, Manifattura Effe Pi, The Woolmark Company, and Tough Knitting Enterprise.

About PERFORMANCE DAYS
PERFORMANCE DAYS — The “functional fabric fair” launched in 2008, is the first and only event created especially for functional fabrics for sports and work clothing. The aim of the semiannual trade fair is to give leading and innovative textile manufacturers, suppliers and service providers the opportunity to present their functional fabrics, membranes plus treatments, laminates, paddings, fin-ishes, and accessories such as yarns, tapes, prints, buttons and zippers.
The industry experts who come to this fair – the sports fashion designers, product managers, and decision-makers (see online: Visitor List) represent almost every European active clothing and func-tional wear manufacturer – can find a complete selection of high quality materials available at just the right time in April/May and November. The dates are intentionally scheduled early thanks to our expertise in functional fabrics and are optimal for summer and winter sport collections. (All trade fair catalogs from past events are available online at Catalogs as well as a listing of current exhibitors at Exhibitor List).
 
The relaxed and focused workshop-like atmosphere at PERFORMANCE DAYS differentiates it from the other fairs which are often unmanageable and more stressful. That is one of the reasons why the Munich trade fair at the heart of the European sportswear industry has become one of the top addresses for new fabrics, innovations, and is the preferred meeting place to conduct business.
In the unique PERFORMANCE FORUM of PERFORMANCE DAYS, the visitor receives an inspiring and well-grounded overview of the new materials, trends, and innovations of the exhibitors. The PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD are also presented here. Qualified guest speakers present special topics and their collaborative ventures in guided tours, workshops and presentations to complete the range of information provided at PERFORMANCE DAYS within the Program (see after the fair online in the Presentation Library).
No entry fee and free admission to all events for industry visitors.

The Polish clothing sector is facing mergers © Erwin Lorenzen / pixelio.de
01.08.2017

THE POLISH CLOTHING SECTOR IS FACING MERGERS

  • Competition is tough
  • Demand is growing

Warsaw (GTAI) - The dynamic demand for clothing and shoes in Poland is unbroken in 2017. The clothing sector, which is in a tough price competition, consolidates itself through mergers. A merger between the two large men’s outfitter Bytom and Vistula is due. In the case of women's fashion, the trend is towards timeless quality goods, which also opens up opportunities for German suppliers. Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear are the fastest growing of all product groups in Poland. According to the Central Statistical Office (CIS) in the first five months of 2017 the real growth was 16.1% above the value of the previous year's period. The total retail sales increased by 6.9%. For the full year 2016 these growth rates were 16.4 and 5.7%, respectively.

  • Competition is tough
  • Demand is growing

Warsaw (GTAI) - The dynamic demand for clothing and shoes in Poland is unbroken in 2017. The clothing sector, which is in a tough price competition, consolidates itself through mergers. A merger between the two large men’s outfitter Bytom and Vistula is due. In the case of women's fashion, the trend is towards timeless quality goods, which also opens up opportunities for German suppliers. Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear are the fastest growing of all product groups in Poland. According to the Central Statistical Office (CIS) in the first five months of 2017 the real growth was 16.1% above the value of the previous year's period. The total retail sales increased by 6.9%. For the full year 2016 these growth rates were 16.4 and 5.7%, respectively.

The in spring of 2016 introduced children's allowance and the fact that many Poles spend their summer holidays in Poland are stimulating the demand even more. This also results in additional supply chances for German suppliers. However, they are in an intense competition with domestic manufacturers and dealers. Sector experts have calculated that the stock exchange listed companies for clothing and footwear could have increased their revenues by an average of 16% in the first half of 2017. The CCC shoe chain was the most successful company with an increase of one third.

Revenue from domestic companies for clothing and footwear in the first half of
2017 (in ZI million Zl, change compared to the first half of 2016 in%) *)
  Revenue Change
LPP 3,069 15.0
CCC 1,845 32.3
Vistula 308 112.4
TXM 165 -2.0
Gino Rossi 141 10.5
Bytom 85 22.6
Wittchen 76 21.0

*) preliminary data
Source: Company data

The positive development is mainly attributable to the increased number of chain stores, the expansion of sales areas and the increase in online trading. Now the sector wants to strengthen its position through mergers.

Vistula on expansion course
The two men’s outfitter Bytom and Vistula want to use synergy effects and operate more successful on the market by merging. Since the middle of April 2017 they are negotiating about this step which could be completed by the end of the year. According to market observers, Vistula should have to issue new shares in order to be able to take over Bytom. The merger would end the tough price competition of the two competitors in formal clothing. They would be able to arrange joint purchases and coordinate their logistics.

Number of shops of trade chains for elegant men's wear
March 2014 March 2015 March 2016 March 2017
618 676 757 810

Source: Market research company PMR, 2017

According to own data Vistula had 366 own shops with a total area of 30,500 sqm. in 2016, Bytom 111 sales salons with 12,690 sqm. The revenues of the Vistula Group were with ZI 599 mio in 2016 (around EUR 137 million, 1 EUR = 4.36 ZI, average rate 2016) almost four times higher than those of Bytom with ZI 153 mio. The net profit of Vistula was with ZI 35.2 mio almost three times as high as that of Bytom (ZI 12.4 mio).

Vistula owns more clothing brands like Wolczanka and the noble mark Lambert as well as the brand Deni Cler for ladies fashion of the high-end segment.The jewelry manufacturer W.Kruk is also part of the group. Industry experts see Vistula continuing to expand.

A further possible takeover candidate is the brand for chic women's wear "Simple" with the same name trade chain and an online business, which is currently owned by Gino Rossi. Simple had recently weakened and is currently being restructured to get better results again. The chairman of the Vistula Group, Grzegorz Pilch, sees opportunities for a takeover of a company for women's clothing in 2018 at the earliest.

Also the manufacturer of ladies wear Monari is looking for take-over candidates. The competition in this segment is the largest. According to the Gino Rossi chairman Tomasz Malicki customers are increasingly looking for high-quality clothing with simpler cuts, that can be worn for longer than a season. Another large garment company, Prochnik, is considering investing in an online business.

LPP stays with casual everyday fashion
Unable to withstand the competition was the brand Tallinder, which was introduced for elegant men’s wear by the market leader LPP in 2016. The shops had to close again. LPP, on the other hand, is successful in casual everydays fashion, often sewn in the Far East. The company sells its five brands Reserved, Mohito, Cropp, House and Sinsay in a total of 1,704 stores in 19 countries, including Germany. Demand is developing dynamically for example in Russia.

In Poland itself there are around 1,000 shops, the number of which could drop in the future with a simultaneous enlargement of the sales areas at the individual branches. This was said by the chairman of LPP, Marek Piechocki, to the daily Rzeczpospolita. The total LPP sales area should increase by about 10% until 2021 and the company's sales should increase by 15 to 20%. At the end of 2017 LPP is planning to operate 19 Reserved stores in Germany.

One of the leading exporters is the company Redan, which is well represented in Central Eastern Europe. It sells brands such as "Top Secret", "Troll" and "Drywash". Redan owns the TXM discount chain which includes around 380 stores locally and abroad as well as an online shop. The company OTCF with its brand for sportswear "4F", has a wholesale network in more than 30 countries.

In addition to the large chains, numerous Polish fashion designers create their own designs. In the premium segment, the brands "La Mania" by Joanna Przetakiewicz and "Emanuel Berg" by Jaroslawa Berg-Szychulda can be found in foreign fashion centers. In several Polish cities the chain Hexeline is represented with its own sales saloons, which produces high-quality women's fashion in its own studio in Łódź.

With the "Product Warmia Mazury" award, which special products from Warmia-Masuria can receive, the fashion designer Barbara Caly-Jablonska can provide her hand-sewn wedding, evening and cocktail dresses as well as stage costumes. Their creations are inspired by the traditions of the area.

According to its deputy chairman Marcin Czyczerski the sales area of the shoe chain CCC will be enlarged by around 100,000 m² in 2017. In March 2017 the chain owned 870 stores with a total area of 471,300 sqm. In the first quarter alone, eight sales salons with 12,700 sqm were added. CCC needs to increase the profitability of its activities in Germany and Austria.

Even though it is not easy for Polish suppliers of clothing and footwear to gain a foothold in Western European markets, they are still exporting to there, especially to Germany. More than half of the in Poland produced textiles go abroad, almost half of their clothing. Fashion and accessories are shown in Poland at numerous trade shows. The next Poznan Fashion Show  (http://www.targimodypoznan.pl/pl/) will take place from September 5th -9th 2017.

 

Source:

Beatrice Repetzki, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

Chinese Clothing Buyers Become More Selective © Marko Greitschus/ pixelio.de
20.06.2017

CHINESE CLOTHING BUYERS BECOME MORE SELECTIVE

  • Foreign companies should adapt their fashion to Chinese needs
  • Increasing health awareness strengthens sportwear market

Beijing (GTAI) - The Chinese clothing market is one of the largest in the world and is developing rapidly. From the lower mass volume over the in quality and optic pretty products in a midprice segment to luxury and haute-couture the range of products in the sectors is constantly expanding. In addition to the tendency towards recognized brands an increasing individualization of consumption can be observed. What is needed, what fits well is liked and moreover is somehow "special".

According to the Chinese Statistical Office (NBS), the retail sales of clothing increased in 2016 to more than USD 150 billion (these figures include companies with annual sales of over USD 3 million in their main business). This makes the Chinese clothing market to one of the largest in the world.

  • Foreign companies should adapt their fashion to Chinese needs
  • Increasing health awareness strengthens sportwear market

Beijing (GTAI) - The Chinese clothing market is one of the largest in the world and is developing rapidly. From the lower mass volume over the in quality and optic pretty products in a midprice segment to luxury and haute-couture the range of products in the sectors is constantly expanding. In addition to the tendency towards recognized brands an increasing individualization of consumption can be observed. What is needed, what fits well is liked and moreover is somehow "special".

According to the Chinese Statistical Office (NBS), the retail sales of clothing increased in 2016 to more than USD 150 billion (these figures include companies with annual sales of over USD 3 million in their main business). This makes the Chinese clothing market to one of the largest in the world.

The Chinese consumer desires are increasingly demanding, differentiated and personalized. The new possibilities of the Internet, including the booming e-commerce, are changing the purchasing behavior drastically. The level of information has risen significantly, especially as a result of visits abroad. Customers are increasingly aware of prices that have to be paid outside of China. Too high price increases are therefore perceived as discrimination and damage the image of brands.

"The success is not decided by online or offline trading or whether it is a local or international company, but whether the supply meets the demand," Liu Xiaolu, founder of the popular underwear brand Neiwai says.  Essential are the right materials and a quick response to the changing needs of the customers. Finding the right piece online can actually be difficult. A number of hitherto exclusively online offering vendors such as Miss Rhino have recently opened additional conventional stores in order to provide a better advice to customers.   

Fashion must meet Chinese expectations

This makes the sector division representative for the entire Chinese fashion market: the products must be liked and should fit. From the customers' point of view, it is important to find the balance between foreign flair and local characteristics. Not without a reason the 345 yuan (RMB, around 52 $, 1 USD = 6.6442 RMB, as annual average price 2016) for expensive model O2bra "Naja Nina", is one of the bestsellers of the Neiwai brand in Shanghai. It unites Chinese and Western elements: from the outside plain black, decorated inside with erotic motifs from classical Chinese painting.  In general, the underwear sector within the fashion market is considered to be the least saturated and segmented. The Chinese retail trade sold women's underwear at about USD 20.1 billion in 2016. It is estimated to reach USD 25 billion in 2017. For 2020 Euromonitor International predicts sales of USD 33 billion.    

The top ten producers share 13% of the market only. The bulk of this is due to thousands of hardly known companies selling their products at low prices. The prices for a bra range from RMB 50 piece from the Chinese mass producer Cosmo Lady to one hundred times higher Italian brand La Perla. In order to benefit from the more demanding wishes of the Chinese women's world, for example Victoria's Secret from the USA opened its first subsidiary in the People's Republic in Shanghai in March 2017 - a four-storied flagship store.

According to the industry in the long term it hardly will be possible to bring for Western women designed goods to China.  Although in the medium to long term the Chinese ladies statistically seem to become larger and more corpulent, but the purely physical differences will still remain considerable. According to the China Physical Fitness Surveillance Center, women aged 20 to 24 in 2000 were 158.6 cm tall in average, their breast circumference was 82 cm, ten years later they were measured 159 cm respectively still 82 cm. Women of the age of 25 to 29 years measured in 2000 about 158.7 cm / 82.5 cm and in 2010 at 158.2 cm / 83.4 cm. At this background, the companies need not only to develop appropriate fit-sizes. They also have to accept that Chinese women have a more functional or conventional attitude than, for example, women from the USA. This is not least true for swimwear also.

The market for sportswear is growing strongly

According to taobao.com, the largest online platform in the country, more than 21 million bikinis and bathing suits are being sold annually. It is true that every third piece is a bikini, but according to Taobo Chinese women generally prefer to dress more covered than the Western ones. Preference is given to models made with a lot of fabric, looking often much like skirts. Leading are the local companies Hosa, Heatwave and Zoke with prices between RMB 400 and 500. However, many younger Chinese prefer more likely to shop on foreign websites.

Given the strong growth in beach and spa tourism, the demand for swimwear in China will grow at an above-average rate. In general, the sporting goods sector is predicted to get an above-average growth together with increasing health awareness. According to Euromonitor International, sales of sportswear in China are expected to grow to around RMB 281 billion by 2020, of which about RMB 20 to 30 billion will be spent on sports underwear. In total, an estimated value of RMB 170 to 180 billion of sportswear will be sold in the PR China in 2016. The sector is happy and looking forward to a growth of around 10% per annum.

Korean Sportwear Market with above-average Growth © Kunstzirkus/pixelio.de
13.06.2017

KOREAN SPORTSWEAR MARKET WITH ABOVE-AVERAGE GROWTH

  • Korean sportswear market with above-average growth
  • International companies expand / Brand awareness boosts consumption

Seoul (GTAI) - While consumption in Korea (Rep.) is generally weak, some segments show relatively high growth rates. Sales of sportswear have risen steadily over the past few years and are likely to rise in the future. Great sport events and the enthusiasm of the Koreans for prestige items are driving the segment, of which international companies benefit also. The market for outdoor clothing, on the other hand, has already reached its peak.

  • Korean sportswear market with above-average growth
  • International companies expand / Brand awareness boosts consumption

Seoul (GTAI) - While consumption in Korea (Rep.) is generally weak, some segments show relatively high growth rates. Sales of sportswear have risen steadily over the past few years and are likely to rise in the future. Great sport events and the enthusiasm of the Koreans for prestige items are driving the segment, of which international companies benefit also. The market for outdoor clothing, on the other hand, has already reached its peak.

The sportswear market in Korea (Rep.) is developing dynamically. According to estimates by the market research institute Samsung Design Net, the segment premium sportswear reached a growth of Won 4.8% to 6.6 billion in 2016, (circa EUR 5.1 billion, 1 EURO = roughly 1.284 Won, - in the yearly average of 2016). As a result of this positive development, more and more international companies are pushing on the Korean market, thereby expanding the range of goods available for local customers. So far, a large proportion of orders has been sold via large international shopping portals. In the future, the local presence will gain in importance.

International companies are pushing on the market

The American manufacturer Under Armour started direct sales in 2017 with its first own store in Korea (Rep.). In January, after Dependance in Shanghai the company opened its worldwide second largest store in the nobel part Gangnam in Seoul. So far Under Armor had operated its sales mainly through smaller stores in partnership with a Korean retailer. For this reason four additional flagship stores as well as numerous shop-in-shops are to be implemented in during the year of 2017.

But other sector companies are also attracted by the Korean market, such as Lululemon Athletica, a Canadian company specializing in apparel for yoga. Lululemon has opened its first Asian branch in Seoul in 2016. Meanwhile a second store has been opened in Seoul, a third store is to follow later in the year 2017.    

German companies are well positioned

The German company Adidas also was able to generate very good results in the past on the Korean market. Despite a sluggish economy and weak consumption, the company turnover in Korea (Rep.) rose by around 15% in 2016. According to media reports, Adidas predicts a sales upturn of around 10% for 2017.

According to Eddie Nixon, CEO of Adidas Korea in the daily newspaper "Korea Times", the growth in 2016 was reached due to a high demand among young consumers, children and streetwear. The turnover of Adidas in 2016 reached around Won 1 billion in nearly 800 shops around the country. Most of them are managed on a franchise basis. For the Korean market therefore can be said, the population is more active and fitnessoriented than in other Asian countries.

Puma, on the other side, concentrates in Korea (Rep.) in addition to football articles mainly on its female clientele, which accounts for about 55% of its sales. According to Puma CEO Rasmus Holm in the "Korea Herald", this percentage is expected to rise even further as the market for sportswear is increasingly fashion-conscious. Also the influence of the entertainment sector on the segment is becoming increasingly apparent, which is why Puma is cooperating with K-Pop stars in the marketing sector.

According to Holm, the sportswear market in Korea (Rep.) is in a good growth phase. In the short run Puma will primarily focus on optimizing its existing shops. In future, an expansion of the business will be envisaged also, although no figures or timetables have been mentioned. However, the Korean market is not easy. The environment and competition are highly competitive. In addition to numerous international sector companies, local competitors are also well positioned.

"Korean Wave" as a location factor

Representatives of companies also refer to the appeal effect of Korea (Rep.) itself on other Asian countries in a consequence of the so-called "Hallyhu" - the "Korean Wave" of TV series, music and fashion. Numerous consumers in the region orientate themselves on developments in Korea (Rep.); the country is regarded as an international trendsetter in the cultural segment. Fashion and brands that are successful here often spread with a short time delay throughout Asia.

A very positive effect on the local sporting goods and clothing market, Korea (Rep.) will get through the two major sports events of global importance which will happen within ten months. In May and June 2017, the FIFA U20 World Cup will take place in six cities in the country, including a participation of the German team. Manufacturers can present their products to a global audience as well as at the Olympic
winter games, which will be held in Pyeongchang from February 9th to 25th 2018.

Boom at outdoor clothing fizzles

The KOFOTI (Korea Federation of Textile Industries) is more critical about the sector's prospects and forecasts a declining sales trend for 2017. However, this is partly due to the fact that the Korean market for outdoor clothing has shown a declining rate following a boom in the beginning of the decade. Until 2014 the sales of outdoor clothing reached double-digit growth rates partly of more than 30%.

The market was driven by a growing sense of leisure and a great passion of the Korean people for hiking. Between 2005 and 2012, the number of sector enterprises jumped from 30 brands to around 170. However the growth rates have declined gradually since 2012 and the market is estimated to have stagnated at a volume of Won 7.4 billion in 2015, some sector companies have already suffered high sales losses in a double-digit range.

For 2016, there are still no concrete figures for the overall market, but different indicators point to declining sales. So the import of footwear fell by 41.5% in 2016, imports of clothing made out of felt, fleece and PVC went down by 21.7%, anoraks and wind jackets for men declined by 5.4%. According to media reports a number of companies are already withdrawing from this segment due to market saturation. Others are orienting towards expanding areas such as fitness, running sports accessories as well as for yoga and golf wear.

 

More information:
Korea Outdoor Sportwear
Source:

Alexander Hirschle, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

Belarus is expanding its textile and clothing industry © Florentine/pixelio.de
28.03.2017

BELARUS IS EXPANDING ITS TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY

PLANNED ABOLITION OF EU IMPORT QUOTAS ALLOWS MORE FOREIGN COMMITMENTS

Minsk (GTAI) - The textile and clothing industry of the Republic of Belarus faces great challenges. It has to become more efficient, should produce more market-orientated and make greater use of its export potential. The sector has great hopes on the by the European Union planned abolition of quotas for Belarusian textiles and clothing products. There are then more than ever good opportunities for the subcontracting finishing process.

PLANNED ABOLITION OF EU IMPORT QUOTAS ALLOWS MORE FOREIGN COMMITMENTS

Minsk (GTAI) - The textile and clothing industry of the Republic of Belarus faces great challenges. It has to become more efficient, should produce more market-orientated and make greater use of its export potential. The sector has great hopes on the by the European Union planned abolition of quotas for Belarusian textiles and clothing products. There are then more than ever good opportunities for the subcontracting finishing process.

The textile and clothing industry has traditionally been one of the most important sectors of the manufacturing industry in the Republic of Belarus. As a result of the sharp decline of the local purchasing power and of the main export market Russia, the sector has suffered a severe setback in the years 2013 to 2015. Since the second half of 2016 it is on an upswing again. According to preliminary data, the output has risen in 2016 by 4.6% to EUR 1.41 billion compared to 2015. Produced were 146.8 million sqm. of fabrics, 40.4 million pieces of knitwear, 147.0 million pairs of stockings and 19.9 million sqm. of carpet products.

Nevertheless the textile and clothing industry continues to suffer from a weak capacity utilization, an inadequate management and marketing as well as from a considerable backlog in the technological renewal of the equipment park. The implementation of an industry support program for the period from 2016 to 2020 should provide for a remedy. The program comes from the Belarussian State Group for production and sale of goods of the light industry Bellegprom. (http://www.bellegprom.by).

Sector program shows planned projects until 2020

Under the umbrella of the State Group 17 textile, 12 knitting and 21 garment companies are active. With an output of just under USD 0.9 billion, these manufacturers were involved with nearly three-fifths of the total output of the Belarusian textile and clothing industry in 2015. The companies have exported goods for nearly USD 500 million in 2015. The main customer was Russia (USD 357 million). The investments of the Bellegprom companies are expected to reach a volume of at least EUR 250 million in the years 2017 to 2020.

The envisaged projects for this period include:

  • the continuation of the comprehensive modernization of the Orschaer linen combine Orscha (production of linen yarn, -fabrics and finished products, processing of imported raw materials);
  • technological renewal in the company OAO Mogotex, Mahiljou / Mogilew (spinning and textile finishing);
  • the development and production of new competitive wool and wool blended fabrics in the company OAO Kamwol, Minsk;
  • the expansion of the production of hosiery, including an enlargement of the assortment of medical hosiery in the company SOOO Conte Spa, Grodno;
  • the commencement of production of seamless underwear in the company OAO Kupalinka, Salihorsk and
  • Investment in the production of fine thread Ajour-fabrics in OAO Switanak, Shodsina.

 

Selected characteristic data of the Belarusian textile and clothing industry
  2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Number of companies1) 1,577 1,605 1,693 1,715 1,671 1,552
Number of employees
(in 1,000 persons)1)
104.2 102.5 100.3 94.9 87.2 75.5
Production (in Mio. Euro)   1,440.7 1,654.3 1,673.7 1,663.0 1,499.7 1,181.8
Real change compared to previous year (in %)2) 13.5 6.8 1.4 -2.7 -2.4 -14.0
Share of production of the total manufacturing industry (in %) 3.8 3.4 3.2 3.6 3.4 3.2
Gross facility investment (in EUR mio) 103.8 114.0 96.4 125.2 177.6 76.1
Average monthly wage (Euro) 210.0 216.3 256.8 315.7 318.0 257.3
Production of selected products   
Fabrics, total (sqm. mio) 147.0 177.2 183.9 181.0 166.5 155.2
Fabrics made out of chemical fibers 65.8 82.3 83.8 80.5 67,4 69.5
Cotton fabrics 52.9 65.5 68.6 69.7 71,6 58.8
Linen fabrics 24.3 25.3 27.4 26.8 24.6 25.0
Woolen fabrics 4.0 3.2 3.1 3.5 2.5 1.6
Knitted goods (pieces mio) 63.7 64.2 62.8 61.2 51,1 42.2
Hosiery (pairs mio) 119.0 129.5 133.6 137.0 140.2 138.6
Carpets and floorcoverings (sqm. mio) 10.0 12.2 12.9 15.4 18.7 18.6

1)  Without regard to micro- and other small enterprises; at the end of 2015 225 textile and clothing companies were active in Belarus, the average number of employees in these companies was 58,800 persons per year;
2)  in terms of the national currency of Belarussian Ruble
Source: National Committee for Statistics, calculations by Trade & Invest in Germany.

In order to create complete value chains, it is envisaged to set up joint ventures between manufacturers of fabrics as well as producers of finished products. The Bellegprom Group is keen to focus the expansion potential on the production of linen fabrics and high-quality finished linen products.

Belarus is one of the world's five largest linen producers. For 2017 a volume of 55,000 tons is expected. In the year 2016 29 companies have processed flax straw into fibers. Of the in these factories installed 54 processing lines only ten are considered to be highly productive. According to the administration of the Mahiljou region, a Chinese investor wants to set up a factory in the region for the processing of flax for semi-finished and ready made goods in the near future.

Abolition of EU quotas planed

The EU plans to abolish the since 2010 existing autonomous quotas as well as the contingents for passive finishing processing for Belarus. The restrictions currently apply to a variety of textile products, including cotton and linen yarn as well as garments made out of cotton and woolen fabrics. Market observers agree: the abolition of the quotas with the related bureaucratic procedures would provide a solid basis for stimulating foreign investments in the Belarusian textile and clothing industry.

Belarus has many advantages: geographical proximity to the EU market, a well-developed infrastructure, long-standing industrial traditions, available production capacities, skilled labor and, last but not least, favorable labor costs. In a first phase of cooperation with Belarusian partners, the interest of foreign companies is likely to focus more on subcontracting. There are already successful projects that use the favorable framework conditions for this business model.   

The German Langheinrich Vertriebs GmbH, for example, produces high-quality table cloth and bed linen for the contract area in the small West-Belarussian town of Diwin (Kobryn district, Brest region). According to the director general of Langheinrich Konfektion GmbH, Walentina Paschkewitsch, the company, founded there in 2005, employs now between 90 and 120 employees depending on the order situation. Sales in 2016 amounted to around EUR 1 million. The in the company paid wages and the additional granted social packages are the guarantor of a very low fluctuation of the workforce. Among the companies from neighboring Lithuania, which are producing textiles and clothing in Belarus, the leading Baltic manufacturer of sportswear Audimas stands out.

 

Central America imports more textile machinery © Oliver Brunner/pixelio.de
07.03.2017

CENTRAL AMERICA IMPORTS MORE TEXTILE MACHINERY

  • Large-scale projects in Honduras
  • More vertical integration strived

Following the US President's decree against the Pacific Pact TPP, Central America's textile and clothing industry counts for its main market on further tariff advantages compared to the Asian competition. Next to the so far dominating subcontracting work the sector wants to intensify the production of pre-products, what requires more and better textile machinery for this purpose. Guatemala is already investing, while Nicaragua will continue to stay mainly with sewing and tailoring. The largest technology market was lately El Salvador.

  • Large-scale projects in Honduras
  • More vertical integration strived

Following the US President's decree against the Pacific Pact TPP, Central America's textile and clothing industry counts for its main market on further tariff advantages compared to the Asian competition. Next to the so far dominating subcontracting work the sector wants to intensify the production of pre-products, what requires more and better textile machinery for this purpose. Guatemala is already investing, while Nicaragua will continue to stay mainly with sewing and tailoring. The largest technology market was lately El Salvador.

Honduras wants to expand its textile and clothing industry strongly. The aim of the "20/20" program is to significantly increase exports and with it new jobs. One focus should be the production of sportswear and other synthetic clothing, including pre-products. Central America's "largest factory for polyester yarn" (DTY) went into construction at the end of January 2017 in Choloma. It is expected to cost USD 73 million and produce 25,000 tons per year. According to Mario Canahuati, a Honduran shareholder of the investor United Textiles of America, an additional USD 120 million factory for synthetic materials and garments should be added later.

Observers believe the sector's expansion plans are realistic because it can stem the relatively large investment in the synthetic fiber production. In the Honduran textile industry there are many joint ventures with US partners which can raise capital in North America. In the other countries of the region the sector companies are more strongly medium-sized. They are depending more on the local capital market with its high interest rates and restrictive banks.

Honduras, Guatemala and El Salvador invest

According to a machine representative the textile manufacturers in Guatemala will invest more in dyeing machines in order to become more independent from suppliers and keep the quality better under control. According to Invest in Guatemala the sector there delivers higher quality end products than the competition from El Salvador and Honduras, on the US market clothing from Guatemalan is almost twice as expensive.

The textile industry in Guatemala and El Salvador is more vertically integrated than in Honduras: it produces relatively quite a lot of yarn and fabrics by itself and is less dependent of the typical subcontracting (Maquila) method, which only imports textiles and re-exports them as finished clothing. Honduras mainly processes imported synthetic fiber yarns, which the country - like El Salvador - manufactures partly by itself.

The best market in Central America for a large German textile machine manufacturer is currently El Salvador, which imports the most technology in the region. The customers are quite innovative and work more concept orientated, which makes the cooperation easier. Due to increased yarn prices, some weaving companies are currently investing in spinning machines, a machinery salesman says. According to the Central America Strategic Sourcing Review, more than 20% of the factories are "vertically integrated".

In the opinion of machine representatives, Nicaragua is still concentrating on subcontracting. Investors are reluctant to spend larger sums which would be needed for modern textile  manufacturing. In addition there is a lack of good specialists for the foreseeable future, the level of training is only sufficient for easier sewing and clothing manufacturing. In Panama the textile industry does not play a nameable role; in Costa Rica, which is also relatively prosperous, the sector is larger, but exports little.

Central America’s textile and clothing industry

Indicator Guatemala Honduras El Salvador Nicaragua
Number of manufacturers 215 125
(2015)
n.a. n.a.
Employees (direct) 90,000 (2013) 99,100
(2015)
75,000
(estimation)
70,000
(estimation, 2014)
Clothing exports to the USA
(2016, bn. US$) *)
1,380 2,554 1,941 1,472
Production of synthetic fibres
(2016, 1,000 t)
0 26,5 17,2 0
Installed capacity (2015, 1,000 Units)
Spindles 153 n.a. 250 40
OE-Rotors 21 n.a. 1.4 n.a.
Weaving looms 3.9 n.a. 3.2 0.65

*) Costa Rica 29 Mio.; Clothing = almost total industry exports; 80% of exports are for the US; data from US import authority. Source: ITMF; national associations and authorities; Press

Central America Textile companies are usually located in a free zone and produce for export, mainly the US. In Honduras, according to a study by the Central Bank, Maquila - with textile / clothing as the largest segment - produced 36% of pre-products for other contractors and 64% of final products, which in turn were exported up to 99%.

US protectionism could even help

The protectionism, which is announced in the main market USA, develops some optimism to Central America's textile industry. As listed in “Honduras 20/20” it now can deliver more cheaply to the US than the competition from China or Vietnam because of existing trade agreements. At an - now not targeted anymore - omission of cutting US customs duties for Vietnam, it would be much more expensive. In addition, a garment factory in Honduras is able to deliver to the US in two days, a delivery from Vietnam requires twenty days. In the today so very fast fashion world, this is the main reason why Wal-Mart & Co. are ordering massive masses in Central America.

Until now, Central America has been supplying mainly cheap clothing for the US mass market, but, as a German machinery exporter is hoping, they will try to settle themselves against the Asian competition with higher valuable goods. For this the Central American manufacturers would need better technology, which preferable comes from Europe. In the view of other representatives Central America will need in future productive machines that are cheap at the same time. Chinese machines with European components are a big competition.

Machinery imports rising

Central America Imports of textile machinery and sewing machines have risen by one-third to over USD 130 million between 2013 and 2015. In addition, according to the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Honduras has imported 170 round knitting machines in 2014 and 2015, Guatemala only 26, El Salvador 23 and Nicaragua ten. Germany was the fifth most important delivery country. Leading supplier was the USA. For Guatemala, with its many Korean-owned textile companies, Korea (Rep) was the main supplier.According to ITMF, Central America will shift its investments somewhat away from the clothing area towards the textile sector. Already today, the representative of a German manufacturer says: "We are currently selling very well in Mexico and Central America." 

Central America‘s1) imports of textile machinery (bn. US$) 2)

SITC Product group /Country / Country of delivery 2013 2014 2015 20163)
  total 97.5 116.0 131.6 70.8
72472) Machines for washing, drying, dying a.o. 25.7 27.9 35.4 9.4
724.35 Other sewing machines 21.0 24.2 29.2 18.8
7245 Weaving looms and knitting machines 21.7 23.7 28.8 20.9
7244 Spinning machines 11.5 21.7 19.8 11.6
7246 Auxiliary machines 14.4 12.8 13.8 8.1
72492) Parts 3.1 5.7 4.6 2.0
  USA 32.5 33.4 27.9 12.7
  Italy 8.8 10.6 20.8 17.5
  China 9.1 12.1 15.4 6.6
  Korea (Rep.) 6.2 9.5 12.1 0.5
  Germany 9.6 4.0 10.9 6.9
  Japan 3.9 7.2 7.7 6.0
  El Salvador 48.5 55.4 70.9 70.8
724.35   12.9 16.4 20.5 18.8
7245   7.0 11.7 16.1 20.9
72472)   11.3 12.0 12.9 9.4
7244   6.5 5.1 11.2 11.6
7246   9.4 8.6 7.9 8.1
  Guatemala 28.9 32.6 44.8 n.a
72472)   5.3 6.2 12.4 n.a.
7245   8.9 8.3 11.2 n.a
7244   3.5 4.9 7.2 n.a
724.35   5.8 5.9 6.8 n.a
7246   4.4 3.7 5.5 n.a
  Costa Rica 13.9 21.3 10.2 n.a
72472)   5.2 5.0 5.7 n.a
7244   1.4 11.4 1.3 n.a
7245   5.1 3.0 1.2 n.a
724.35   1.4 1.2 1.2 n.a
  Panama 6.1 6.8 5.8 n.a
72472)   4.0 4.7 4.3 n.a

1) without Honduras and Nicaragua; 2) SITC 724, without household sewing machines, (724.33), household washing machines, (724.71), machines for dry-cleaning(724.72), leather machines(7248), parts for household washing machines; 3) El Salvador only
Source: UN Comtrade

Munich Fabric Start 2017 © munich fabric start
21.02.2017

MUNICH FABRIC START S/S 2018: THE SIGNS OF THE TIMES RECOGNIZED

A stable high number of visitors, the measurable acceptance of all changes and expansions in the Bluezone area and a top level supporting program with a trend lecture by Li Edelkoort and the presentation of the Hightex Award confirm the correctness of the fair concept at Munich Fabric Start. The exhibition time expansion of Bluezone and Keyhouse reflects the success of the Denim segment and the innovation driver in the Keyhouse.

A stable high number of visitors, the measurable acceptance of all changes and expansions in the Bluezone area and a top level supporting program with a trend lecture by Li Edelkoort and the presentation of the Hightex Award confirm the correctness of the fair concept at Munich Fabric Start. The exhibition time expansion of Bluezone and Keyhouse reflects the success of the Denim segment and the innovation driver in the Keyhouse.

Due to the addition of the Catalyzer Hall last fall, approx. 100 exhibitors will present their latest developments in the Bluezone area. The Keyhouse has been accepted as a crystallization point for
trends and innovations and has also been ennobled by one of the rare appearances of the trend visionary Li Edelkoort. At the center are the innovations that have qualified for the Hightex Award and developments in the area of sustainability. The latter were presented under the heading Sustainable Innovations for the first time. There were eight innovative concepts - from jellyfish leather to citrus fibers until fruit leathers - that showed a vision of where textile-technological developments could lead in the future. In the tried and tested format of organicselection, the future theme Sustainability received great attention with the latest developments in sustainable produced fabrics and accessories. Spatially placed around the stele-like structured future visions, highly innovative companies like Schoeller Technologies and various universities showed their novelties. Everything has more of a laboratory character and is therefore more inspiring than commercial, which is effectively underlined by the ambiance of the old industrial structure of the hall. The interest of the visitors shows that it is well received. The trend presentations and expert talks were also held here.

Into the Blue

Across the street in halls 1 to 4, the more basic work takes place. The range is internationally attractive with approximately 1700 collections of about 1000 exhibitors and represents the real happenings in the textile market. Here too the trend fora are well visited. The additionals, as the accessories are called here, received more presence in the trend presentation, which was generally welcomed, as they represent a significant part of the exhibitor portfolio. The details of the presentation themselves however still need to be significantly optimized. It also should be permissible to ensure, that a development of a "two - party society" of this side and the other side of the road, which prefers the special part of the Blues through its concentration of events and visionaries of these halls, should be prevented; knowing that that part is showing a market segment for itself and which hardly mixes with "normal" clothing. An important step however is now the adjustment of the opening days: three equal days for all areas.

Encourage innovation

The Hightex Award was only launched last season. As said by the fair organizers it should promote the "most innovative and forward-looking product developments for fabrics and additionals by the exhibiting companies in the fields of technology, smart fibers, sustainability, resource efficiency, finishing and functionality", as well as the growing "demand for innovation, added value and unique features" in the fashion sector. Sustainability however is only one of the to be considered requirements and is not an exclusion criterion for the pre-selection. Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start, reported about more than 300 requests in the current season.

The winners of the event were: Place1 Tintex Textiles Portugal, with a breathable, cork-coated Jersey of Tencel / Cotton, followed by Soorty Enterprises from Pakistan, whose bi-elastic denim with a high proportion of recycled polyester (Coolmax) for sportswear convinced the Jury. The 3rd place went to Thermore, Italy, for the development of a heat regulating Inlet from a fiber fleece with a vaporized polymer. The good mood of the entire sector was striking, which obviously did not want to become affected by the worrying environmental conditions in politics and on the export markets.

The platform was used for information and discussions, as the clothing manufacturers are due to missing attractive trends more than ever being asked to filter the right suitable things out of the huge spectrum of materials, colors and patterns, which could be appropriate for them. "For the first time, I am looking pessimistic to the future," the grand lady of fashionable trend forecasts, Li Edelkoort, said. She attributed the most important significance to the parameters of movement and change, which gave her the chance to add to the theme "Transform", free: change – from her point of view an additional facet.

 

ISPO MUNICH 2017 © Messe München GmbH
23.08.2016

ISPO TEXTRENDS: TEXTILE TRENDS FOR FALL/WINTER 2018/2019

  • Trend preview for designers and product developers
  • Registration for ISPO TEXTRENDS 2017 available now
Together with trend experts, ISPO monitors influences, themes and colors that will shape fabric innovations for Fall/Winter 2018/2019. The textile trends are developed on the basis of these findings. They steer the work of designers and product developers and provide comprehensive predictions for future trend developments. Three megatrends focus on new market segments, the latest in functionality and the subject of sustainability. Companies wishing to showcase their products at ISPO TEXTRENDS can register now at www.textrends.ispo.com
 
ISPO is a renowned network for innovations. In combination with ISPO TEXTRENDS, it provides a platform for innovative fabrics and components in the textile sector.
  • Trend preview for designers and product developers
  • Registration for ISPO TEXTRENDS 2017 available now
Together with trend experts, ISPO monitors influences, themes and colors that will shape fabric innovations for Fall/Winter 2018/2019. The textile trends are developed on the basis of these findings. They steer the work of designers and product developers and provide comprehensive predictions for future trend developments. Three megatrends focus on new market segments, the latest in functionality and the subject of sustainability. Companies wishing to showcase their products at ISPO TEXTRENDS can register now at www.textrends.ispo.com
 
ISPO is a renowned network for innovations. In combination with ISPO TEXTRENDS, it provides a platform for innovative fabrics and components in the textile sector. Just recently the summer event was successfully launched for the first time at ISPO SHANGHAI. The well-established ISPO TEXTRENDS winter event will follow at ISPO MUNICH from February 5–8, 2017. Companies wishing to showcase their products at ISPO TEXTRENDS can register now at www.textrends.ispo.com. Which products can be entered in the race? Do they meet the expectations of the judging panel? The textile trends provide initial pointers and act as a guideline for participants when making their application. The textile trends consider various factors, from consumer behavior to the global economic situation. They also incorporate the influences of film, music and art on the industry and your products. The result is three megatrends, upcoming color trends and five detailed textile trends. As part of this, ISPO provides an exclusive initial glimpse of the sportswear market for Fall/Winter 2018/2019.
 
A quick look at textile trends for Fall/Winter 2018/2019
 
Megatrends – Opportunity Knocks, Perpetual Emotion, Infinite Act
The three megatrends will influence the textiles of Fall/Winter 2018/2019, crossing over into the sports market:
 
Opportunity Knocks calls for a focus on new market opportunities. The outdoor and activewear sector is no longer solely confined to a niche market. It is an opportunity to successfully expand product ranges.
 
With the Perpetual Emotion trend, positivity and confidence take a stand against the ever-increasing doom and gloom in the world. This trend is spearheaded by the desire to explore boundaries and provide the ultimate functionality without compromising style. Consumers expect the latest in functionality, enhanced comfort and a feeling like no other they’ve experienced when they wear the garment.
 
Infinite Act focuses on the message of sustainability combined with a strong corporate responsibility both to the environment and the workforce. Nanotechnology and biomimicry continue to make a mark, while the chemical industry and manufacturers of functional fabrics focus on their environmentally-friendly approach.
 
Color spectrum for Fall/Winter 2017/2018
 
The colors for the Fall/Winter season 2018/2019 are forward-looking, optimistic and focused. This season the active color spectrum is shifting to a slightly more powdery look compared to the traditionally bright best-selling tones. Deep reds and dark berry tones compliment envisaged shades of green and orange, presenting a warm but invigorating color spectrum inspired by nature.
 
Textile trends: Sensory, Allegiance, Myriad, Paragon, Transmutation
Five textile trends reflect numerous influences from consumer behavior to the global economic Situation.
 
Trend 1 – Sensory. This trend is about enhancing performance through fit, touch and visual appeal. The functionality on offer is manifested in fabrics, finishes, trims and accessories. This covers featherlight base layers to super soft insulation and multi-functional outer shells. Sensory pushes the boundaries of technology and textile manufacturing. 
 
Trend 2 – Allegiance. This trend teams the benefits of natural fibers with the guaranteed performance of advanced synthetic fabrics. The result is an increase in hybrid blends. From manufacturers of natural and synthetic yarn to textile suppliers and finishing producers, everyone is striving to deliver more environmentally sustainable products and manufacturing processes. This also influences the appearance. 
 
Trend 3 – Myriad. This trend is aimed at incredibly lightweight products crammed full of multi-functionality, enabling popular basics to be spruced up into new generation must haves. The developments in this section give rise to highly intelligent products that create new agility and improved functionality for the consumer. 
 
Trend 4 – Paragon. Paragon is geared toward everyone who strives to be the best in winter sports – the fabrics, trims and accessories make for a winning performance. Protective aspects also feature in this trend, from core stability and reflective elements to tear resistance and shock absorption. 
 
Trend 5 – Transmutation. This trend brings about fabrics and trims that adapt to different situations, especially through prints and yarn combinations inspired by metamorphism. Visually and structurally stimulating, products in this sector are screaming for attention in a whole host of scenarios, ranging from high-level performance and fun with a hint of glamour. 
 
Companies wishing to showcase their products at ISPO TEXTRENDS can register now at www.textrends.ispo.com . The application deadline is Sunday, October 30, 2016. An international expert judging panel will then assess all of the submissions. The selected materials will be exhibited at ISPO MUNICH 2017 in Hall C2.
 
The latest ISPO TEXTRENDS app reveals the best fabrics and components for making sportswear—get your copy from the ISPO SHOP.
 
More information on ISPO TEXTRENDS is available at www.textrends.ispo.com and on Facebook: www.facebook.com/ispomunich
 
More information on textile trends is available on request from: stephanie.ledru@pascher-heinz.com
CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD © derProjektor / pixelio.de
24.05.2016

CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency.

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency. For the textile and clothing industry, the Ruble devaluation means a fundamental change in the general framework: more expensive imports, lower personnel costs in Russia and rising export opportunities.
 
Customers change from the middle to the lower price segment
In addition, the real income of the Russian population declines and thus the purchasing power. Russian customers buy less clothing and watch more and more the price. Sales shrink at the most in the medium price segment. Many customers orientate themselves on low-price segments (mass market), which will increase in 2016 by 5 to10% to a share of 65 to 70%, the Fashion Consulting Group predicts. The proportion of the premium and luxury segment remains unchanged.
An average Russian household has cut its spending on clothing and home textiles by 30 to 50%, experts estimate. Especially the suppliers of imported textiles and clothing got to feel this, their prices had to be increased most, what damaged the business of foreign brand suppliers. In 2015 the Russian imports of textiles and clothing fell by 25%. This tendency continues in 2016.
    
Distribution networks in the stationary trade become thinned 
Because of the price pressure manufacturers and retailers in the fashion market shorten their staff, negotiate discounts for the shop rental, reduce the collections, simplify cuts and save on quality. While many Russian brands used to buy their materials in the EU and in Turkey, designers and producers now can only afford cheap synthetic fabrics from China. The advertising budgets were slashed in 2015 by 40 to 45%. Moreover clothing suppliers react by closing stores and concentrate on most profitable locations. Since 2014 more than eleven international brands have left the Russian market. These include Gerry Weber from the middle price segment, Laura Ashley, Chevignon and Seppälä; from the mass market segment Esprit, New Look, OVS, River Iceland and Wendys.  
 
Marks & Spencer closed 3% of its stores, Mango 7%, Gloria Jeans 12%. The largest drop in the number of stores are reported from the brands Vis-a-Vis (-65%), Motivi (-40%), Savage (-29%) and Incity (-17%). Maratex closed its franchise stores for clothing brands like Esprit, New Look, OVS and River Iceland 2015 in Russia. The Finnish Stockmann sold its seven department stores in Russia for EUR 5 million to Reviva Holdings Ltd. (owner of the franchise store chain Debenhams) and gave up the business of its brands Lindex and Seppälä.
 
Adidas has closed 2015 167 of its 1,100 shops in Russia, planned are 200. The German sportswear manufacturer acquired 2015 the central warehouse Chekhov-2 with an area of 120,000 square meters in the Moscow region. The purchase price is supposed at a total between USD 70 and 100 million. The Finnish Kesko informed in February 2016 that it wants to sell the Russian Intersport chain because of poor financial results.

The retail chain Modny continent (brands: Incity, Deseo) reduced the number of its stores by 35. At the end of the first quarter of 2016 they still owned 301 stores. The Melon Fashion Group disposed in 2015 27 unprofitable stores, for this they opened 37 new ones. Melon owned December 31st 604 stores throughout Russia (befree 234, Zarina 203, Love Republic 167), of which 134 are franchise stores (befree 56, Zarina 44, Love Republic 34). A new concept of the stores - larger retail space and more modern design – should help against the crisis.
The Spanish designer brand Desigual closed its Russian stores end of September 2015, but they remain on the market in multibrand stores. A similar course is followed by other brands. 

Eleven fashion brands enter the Russian market in the first half year of  2016
A small gleam of hope: Eleven fashion brands announced to enter the Russian market in the first half year of 2016. This happened already at the end of 2015 with budget brands like Cortefiel, Superdry and Violetta by Mango. H & M, Monki, Uniqlo and Forever 21 want to continue to expand in Russia.
Already in 2015 the number of H & M stores grew in Russia by 35% to 96 stores. On April 28th 2016 the menswear house Henderson opened a new salon in the shopping center "Zelenopark" in Zelenograd near Moscow. With this Henderson (brands: Henderson, Hayas) is now represented in 164 major shopping centers in 56 Russian cities. Hugo Boss inaugurated on April 8th 2016 a new shop in the Outlet Village Pulkovo.

The vertically integrated chain Gloria Jeans has changed it’s headquarter at the beginning of 2016 from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow and rented there 3,500 square meters in the Arma plant. Until the end of 2016 Gloria Jeans plans to extend on 5,000 square meters and further to 10,000 square meters until 2017. The capital should serve as a gateway to the world market: Gloria Jeans plans to open an office in Hong Kong. The company has eight regional offices and two large logistics complexes in Novosibirsk and Novoshakhtinsk.

International brands, planning to enter the Russian market in first half of 2016
Nr. Brand Country Profile Shopping mall Price segment
1 Demurya     France/Russia Clothing Smolenskij Passash Premium
2 John Varvatos USA Clothing Crocus City Mall Premium
3 Il Gufo Italy Clothing for children ZUM Premium
4 Barbour United Kingdom Clothing GUM upper middle
5 Armani Exchange Italy Clothing Mega, Aviapark middle
6 Veta Estland Clothing Streetretail, Kamenoostrowskij middle
7 Love Stories Netherlands Underwear Einkaufszentrum "Modny Seson" middle
8 Victorias Secret Pink USA Underwear, clothing Evropejskij middle
9 Hunkemöller Germany Underwear Mega middle
10 Undiz France Underwear Mega lower
11 Aigle France Clothing, shoes Street retail, Olimpijskij pr-t middle

Source: Retail.ru

Online sale with clothing is growing – Chinese suppliers are expanding
In contrast to the declining sales in the stationary apparel trade, the demand in outlets and on the Internet is rising. The number of visits and the average amount of receipts at the Fashion House Outlet Centre Moscow has risen by two times since July 2013, director Brendon O'Reily reports. The Fashion House Group offers online shopping since 2016.

The association of Internet trading companies (http://www.akit.ru) estimates that sales on the Internet in 2015 were Rubles 760 billion (+ 7%). The share of clothing and footwear was 35 %. Already in 2014 the online trade had grown by a third. Online stores are operated by KupiVIP, Lamoda and Finn Flare. Alone at KupiVIP the number of orders increased by 45% to a volume of Rubles 16.5 billion in 2015.

Manufacturers and distributors therefor boost the online trade. The government wants to promote the export of Russian goods and is planning a large Internet trading platform. Models are Alibaba (China) and JD.com. However Russian customers are buying increasingly from Asian webshops. Only in 2014 the popularity of online orders in China increased threefold.

Contac addresses
Fashion Consulting Group
(Consulting, Marketing, PR)
125009 Moskau, Maly Gnezdnikowskij pereulok 4
Tel.: 007 495/629 74 25, -629 76 23
E-Mail: info@fashionconsulting.ru, Internet: http://www.fashionconsulting.ru

Russian Buyers Union
119034 Moskau, ul. Prechistenka 40/2, Gebäude 3, Büro 110
Tel.: 007 499/350 51 40
E-Mail: info@buyersunion.ru, relations@buyersunion.ru
Internet: http://www.buyersunion.ru

 

BEKLEIDUNGSHERSTELLER VERLAGERN PRODUKTION NACH RUSSLAND © Florentine/ pixelio.de
17.05.2016

CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS MOVING PRODUCTION TO RUSSIA

  • Weak Ruble makes domestic Production profitable
  • Government encourages Investments

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of textiles and clothing will continue to decline. Production in Russia however will rise. Due to the strong Ruble devaluation in the last two years, the conditions for the textile and clothing industry have completely changed. On the one hand falling real incomes lead to declining demand. On the other hand labor costs have fallen under Asian benchmarks.

  • Weak Ruble makes domestic Production profitable
  • Government encourages Investments

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of textiles and clothing will continue to decline. Production in Russia however will rise. Due to the strong Ruble devaluation in the last two years, the conditions for the textile and clothing industry have completely changed. On the one hand falling real incomes lead to declining demand. On the other hand labor costs have fallen under Asian benchmarks.

Due to the low Ruble exchange rate it has become cheaper in 2015 for domestic and foreign textile and clothing companies to produce in Russia. Translated into US dollars, labor costs are currently due to the Ruble devaluation 10 to 15% below the reference value in the PRC. The average wage of a worker in the garment industry in China is currently USD 300 to 350, in Russian Rubles 12,000 to 15,000 (USD 185-230).
 
Relocation to Russia begins
According to a report of the newspaper "Izvestia" the first domestic and foreign clothing manufacturers of branded products have reacted and shift their production capacity from Asia to Russia or have subcontract Russian garment manufacturers.  These include companies like Roztech (brands: Dikaja Orchideja, Bjustje, Defile, Grand Defile), Sportmaster, Melon Fashion Group (befree, Zarina, Love Republic), Finn Flare and Kira Plastinina.

"A few years ago we produced 20 to 30% of our collection in Russia, last year 2015 there were already 30 to 40% and now already about 70%", the commercial director of "Kira Plastinina Style" Vladimir Romanov reported. For that the company has established its own production in an industrial park in Osery close to Moscow.

Other brand manufacturers and retailers like Zara (Inditex), Sela, Baon, Gloria Jeans, Modis, Lamoda, Lady & Gentleman, kangaroo and Sneschnaja Korolewa are looking for opportunities to relocate their production to Russia. The Ministry of Industry and Trade is in intensive discussions with Zara, H & M, Benetton, Dekatlon, Sportmaster and IKEA (home textiles) in order to convince them of the advantages of production in Russia. In future IKEA wants to get up to 40% of its products produced by Russian firms.

Roztech plans to double its production of women's underwear to up to 8 million units. Currently two sites are rented for that in the Smolensk region. For repairs and preparations for production in the rented plants Roztech will invest about  Rubles 60 million. Two other sewing factories in the area of Moscow and Smolensk are already working for Roztech. Contract productions in the PRC and in the Baltic States the company will be terminated because of this.

The franchise chain Finn Flare (Finland) has rented a factory with 500 square meters close to Moscow early 2016, renovated it and installed new equipment. For that Rubles 12 million were invested, General Director Ksenija Rjasowa said. The sewing factory is scheduled to start in May and will produce 40,000 to 60,000 pieces clothing per year. Beginning of 2016 Finn Flare possessed 143 Russian stores (54 franchised).
 
Manufacturers of sportswear increase their share of production in Russia
Since the outbreak of the Ruble crisis Sportmaster has begun to place a portion of its contracts with Russian companies. Currently 15% of the clothing and footwear is coming from Russian production. The retail chain operates shops with the brands Sportmaster - 460, Ostin - 760 and Funday - 60.

The MMD group "Vostok i Zapad", which belongs to the group of the companies Bosco di Ciliegi, intends to set up an own factory for the production of sportswear in the industrial park "Kameshkovo" in the Vladimir region. The necessary investment will amount to Rubles 1 billion, of which Rubles 200 million are own funds and about Rubles 400 million will be requested from the fund for the development of mono towns. 

Even Pierre Cardin is talking with major Russian garment manufacturers about licensed productions, designer Rodrigo Basilikati said in March 2016. So far the fashion house is based on ten own stores and licensees from Germany, Italy and the USA.

So far most sewing orders placed in China. In future one has to expect more companies and  offers from Vietnam, Bangladesh, India, Malaysia and Indonesia. The Eurasian Economic Union and Vietnam have agreed upon a free trade agreement.
 
Import dependence on fabrics and accessories as cost risk
By manufacturing in Russia the exchange rate risk and transport costs do not apply.  But one cost risk remains: For sewing of clothes in Russia  not all fabrics and materials can be sourced domestically, but need to be purchased at 65% abroad. The technical equipment needs to be imported at 100%. In the foreseeable future this remains a cost risk, depending mainly on the development of the further exchange rates.

The main suppliers of fibers, fabrics, yarn, buttons and accessories were previously the PRC and Turkey. However - since the deterioration of the state relation with Turkey Russia is working intensively to get gradually rid of this delivery dependence.
 
Anti-crisis and development program for the light industry
In the Russian light industry 14,000 companies are manufacturing clothing, textiles, footwear and leather goods. Thereof 653 large and medium and 4,000 small businesses operate in the yarn and textile industry. To give the clothing and textile factories more planning certainty, the Russian Government decided in spring 2016 a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support  the enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan).

Russian Confederation:  Production of textiles and clothing (Change in %)
Description of goods 2015 Change 2015/2014
Cotton fiber  (mio. bales) 111.0 4.4
Man-made fiber (mio roles) 66.0 -4.5
Fabrics  (mio. sqm) 4.542 14.7
thereof:    
Natural Silk (1.000 sqm) 253.0 31.8
Wool (1.000 qm) 9,262.0 -20.9
Linen 25.9 -26.6
Cotton 1,176.0 -4.5
Man-made fiber 237.0 14.2
Fabrics made of other  materials 3,084.0 25.1
Fabrics with plastic impregnations (mio. sqm) 32.3 14.6
Bed linen (mio. sets) 59.8

-9.6

Carpets (mio. sqm) 22.6 -3.7
Knitwear (1.000 t) 14.2 29.8
Hosery (Mio. Pair) 199 -5.6
Coats (1.000 pc.) 989 -22.1
Lined jackets (1.000 pc.) 1,887 -45.4
Suits (1.000 pc.) 4,690 -12.6
Mens jackets and blazer (1.000 pc.) 870 14.1
Ladies coats with fur collar  (pc.) 5,543 -46.1
Clothing made out of artificial fur (1.000 pc.) 24.5

21.0

Uniforms and workwear (mio. pc.) 20.7 -8.2
Work – and protective wear (mio. pc.) 99.8 14.6
Overalls (1.000 pc.) 733 -62.4

Source: Rosstat 2016

Russian Confederation: - Production of textiles and clothing (% Change)
Description of goods 1st Quarter 2016 1st Quarter 2016 / 1st Quarter 2015
Sewing threads- made out of synthetic fiber (mio. rolles) 14.0 -0.6
Fabrics (billion sqm) 1.2 23.2
Bed linen (mio sets) 14.1 -7.7
Knitted stockings (mio. pairs) 55.4 34.0
Knitwear (mio. pc.) 24.8 -6.0
Workwear  Uniforms (mio. pc.) 31.1 11.2
Coats (1.000 pc. ) 269 9.1

Source: Rosstat 2016

Contact addresses
Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of  the Textile and Light Industry
107023 Moskau, uliza Malaja Semenowskaja 3
Tel.: 007 495/280 15 48, Fax: -280 10 85
E-Mail: info@souzlegprom.ru, Internet: http://www.souzlegprom.ru

Ministry of Industry and Trade
Department of Light Industry
Denis Klimentewitsch Pak, Director of the Department
109074 Moskau, Kitajgorodskij proesd 7
Tel.: 007 495/632 8004 (Sekretariat), Fax: -632 88 65
E-Mail: dgrvt@minprom.gov.ru, Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru

Light industry department:
Director: Irina Ivanova Alekseewna,
Tel.: -632 87 31, -346 04 73; E-Mail: ivanovaia@minprom.gov.ru
Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/ministry/dep/#!9&click_tab_vp_ind=1

"Strategie für die Entwicklung der Leichtindustrie bis zum Jahr 2025"
http://www.kptf.ru/images/company/Presentation.pdf (Präsentation zur Strategie)
http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/docs/#!strategiya_razvitiya_legkoy_promyshlennosti_rossii_na_period_do_2025_goda (text of the strategy and action plan)

 

TEXPO 2016: First textile exhibition at Karachi Expo Center © Trade Development Authority of Pakistan
23.02.2016

TEXPO 2016: FIRST TEXTILE EXHIBITION AT KARACHI EXPO CENTER

Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP), Government of Pakistan is organizing the first ever textile exhibition named TeXpo 2016 from 7-10 April 2016 at Karachi Expo Center.

Objective of this exhibition is to present the potential of textile sector exports, especially value added sectors: readymade garments, knitwear, hosiery, bedsheets, textile madeups, sportswear, towels, textile accessories, etc.

The textile sector of Pakistan

Pakistan is the 4th largest producer and 3rd largest consumer of cotton globally. Textiles is the vital manufacturing sector of Pakistan. It contributes nearly one-fourth of industrial value-added, provides employment to about 40% of industrial labour force, consumes 40% of banking credit to manufacturing sector and accounts for 8% of national GDP. Textile products share in national exports is 54%.

Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP), Government of Pakistan is organizing the first ever textile exhibition named TeXpo 2016 from 7-10 April 2016 at Karachi Expo Center.

Objective of this exhibition is to present the potential of textile sector exports, especially value added sectors: readymade garments, knitwear, hosiery, bedsheets, textile madeups, sportswear, towels, textile accessories, etc.

The textile sector of Pakistan

Pakistan is the 4th largest producer and 3rd largest consumer of cotton globally. Textiles is the vital manufacturing sector of Pakistan. It contributes nearly one-fourth of industrial value-added, provides employment to about 40% of industrial labour force, consumes 40% of banking credit to manufacturing sector and accounts for 8% of national GDP. Textile products share in national exports is 54%.

The textile industry consists of 11.3 million spindles, 3 million rotors, 350,000 power looms, 18,000 knitting machines and processing capacity of 5.2 billion sqm. It has 700,000 industrial and domestic stitching machines. In addition, it has a strong fiber base of 13 million bales of cotton and 600,000 tons of manmade fibers including polyester fiber. There are 21 filament yarn units having capacity of 100,000 tons. The filament and yarn industry is supported by PTA plant which has 500,000 tons capacity. Thus a complete textiles value chain exists in the country which is rare in the world, unlike many competitors which have only primary base or the finished base.
Source: Ministry of Textile Industry, GoP

Pakistan’s textile exports to Germany

Pakistan enjoys zero customs duty access to European Union including Germany on textile products under GSP Plus Scheme. The scheme started in 2014 and the duty preference to Pakistan will continue for another 8 years. As a result of this incentive, Pakistan’s exports to European Union have increased by almost US$ 2 Billion in two years and the main beneficiary of the scheme has been the textile sector. This increase in exports shows the European buyers confidence in the manufacturers and exporters from Pakistan.

Especially with Germany, Pakistan’s exports in textile products have been increasing by 20% every year. The table below shows Pakistan’s exports to Germany, in textile products:

  2013 2014 2015 2015 % Inc/ Dec in 2015
over 2014 - 11
Months
(January - November) (January - November) (January - November) (January - November)
EUR (‘000) USD (‘000) EUR (‘000) USD (‘000) EUR (‘000) USD (‘000) EUR (‘000) USD (‘000) EUR
cotton 115.451,00 153.353,00 109.190,00 145.456,00 101.111,0 135.491 113.799,0 126.692 13%
Man-made staple fibers 16.135,00 21.367,00 16.959,00 22.432,00 15.387,0 20.499 16.432,0 18.274 7%
Carpets, floor covering made of textile materials 11.127,00 14.797,00 12.545,00 16.565,00 11.119,0 14.807 10.919,0 12.173 -2%
Knitwear 135.428,00 180.080,00 176.123,00 233.634,00 161.014,0 215.001 206.988,0 230.339 29%
Ready made garments (Woven) 266.450,00 353.495,00 334.446,00 444.604,00 311.214,0 415.95 405.924,0 451.166 30%
Home textiles (incl. Bedwear and towel) 176.440,00 234.265,00 236.164,00 313.190,00 214.074,0 285.953 215.308,0 239.699 1%
Total of 6 items 721.031,00 957.357,00 885.427,00 1.175.881,00 813.919,00 1.087.709,00 969.370,00 1.078.343,00 19%
Pakistan export of textiles and clothing to the world
  Major Commodities Value in US$ thousand
July-June
2014-15
Value in US$ thousand
July-June
2013-14
  Textile Group 13.164,027 13.433,644
1 Cotton Cloth 2.452,632 2.769,986
2 Knitwears 2.406,488 2.293,668
3 Cotton Yarn 1.849,389 1.997,338
4 Bed Wear 2.103,071 2.137,744
5 Readymade Garments 2.095,089 1.909,323
6 Towels 797,155 767,461
7 Art Silk And Synthetic Textiles 330,584 384,964
8 Textile Made Ups (excl. Towels & Bed Wear) 654,926 659,929
9 Raw Cotton 147,060 205,136
10 Kintted or Crochated Fabrics 36,177 34,974
11 Cotton Waste 51,050 79,122
12 Yarn other than Cotton Yarn 42,828 43,873
13 Tents & Other Canvas Goods 126,575 77,759
14 Waste Material of Textile Fibres/Fabrics 28,042 24,451
15 Tule, Lace, Embroidery Etc 12,515 15,567
16 Cotton Bags/Sacks 13,138 11,677
17 TEXTILE FABRICS WOVEN
(Other than Cotton & Artificial Fabrics)
3,726 3,698
18 Cotton Thread 12,259 15,123
19 Textile For Machinery 1,323 1,851

Source: TDAP R&D Cell

Texpo – An opportunity to expand sourcing and increase Profits

The exhibition – Texpo provides and a unique opportunity for the buyers from Germany to meet new suppliers of the textile products and visit their manufacturing facilities.

The Government of Pakistan, Trade Development Authority of Pakistan will arrange accommodation for the visitors/ guests from all over the world, in the top hotels in Karachi city. Free accommodation will be provided for the guests registered through Pakistan Embassy at Berlin or the Consulate at Frankfurt am Main. A few select guests will also be offered air ticket subsidy depending on the confirmation from the organisers.

Local transport in Karachi city with complete security for the delegates will be arranged by the Government of Pakistan to further add to the comfort of guests from all over the world.

You can also plan your visit to China and other regional suppliers near Karachi right after Texpo.

For further details, please contact:

1. Mr. Rizwan Tariq
Commercial Counsellor Consulate General of Pakistan, Frankfurt am Main
Ph: +49 69-6976970
Cell: +49 176-31363223
Email: pakcom.frk@tdap.gov.pk

2. Mr. Matthias Theis
Honorary Consul of Pakistan for the state of NRW Dusseldorf
Ph: +49 211 4407227
Email: office@pakistan-nrw.de

3. Mr. Rainer Borch
Trade Development Officer Embassy of Pakistan Berlin
Ph: +49 30-21244145
Cell: +49 163-3736036
Email: tdo@pakemb.de or rainer.borch@aol.de