Textination Newsline

THE INSEPARABLE TRIO UNVEILS ITS NEW STRENGTHS
The next edition of Première Vision Paris, taking place from 17 to 19 September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte, will present the new materials and creative stimuli for the autumn-winter 2020-21 season.

This major event for all fashion industry players brings together, twice a year, the six principle activities in the upstream sector: yarns, fabrics, leathers, designs, accessories and clothing. 

In the spotlight: the pinnacle of sportswear, its influence on collections and the development of accompanying technological innovations and technical materials. To address these issues, which now permeate all of fashion, Première Vision’s Sport & Tech sector will be prominently featured at the next show. Located in the textile universe of Première Vision Fabrics, in Hall 6, it will bring together 80 exhibiting weavers - including 8 newcomers - to accompany brands and designers looking for inspiration. Their new products will be unveiled in a dedicated space, the Sport & Tech forum, designed around a core theme of «A matter of protection» (protection and innovation).
 
Sportswear gains ground, playing a major role in collections
The global sportswear market grew steadily between 2011 and 2016, reaching $280 billion in 2016¹. It has entered into consumer habits and is synonymous with comfort and technical expertise, as well as style and creativity. And France is no exception: according to a recent study², French consumers wear sport clothes 1 day out of 5, and 25% of consumers see the latter as a «trend». This growing phenomenon has a significant influence on the industry and on those who design and produce clothing and accessories, whether fashion brands using technical materials for their ready-to-wear collections or sports brands developing lifestyle lines. It was to best support these brands that Première Vision developed an offer specially focused on this area within its flagship event: Première Vision Paris.
     
Protection and insulation: technological contributions
Each edition, the Première Vision teams identify a strong theme based on their international research. As sport wear collections grow increasingly popular, the added performance and technology in these product lines is becoming ever more critical. Consumers have been able to try out the innovative features integrated in their sport apparel for several years now, and expect the same functionality in their everyday clothing. «A matter of protection» has thus been selected as the season’s theme for the Sport & Tech sector. A fashion theme that will be particularly highlighted in the dedicated forum, which will present a broader offer of fabrics and high-performance materials from the show’s weavers, knitters and finishers to meet the needs of industry professionals.

Marguerite Coiraton, Show Manager of Première Vision Fabrics and in charge of the Sport & Tech trail, added: « The September 2019 edition is particularly interested in how clothes are used to protect against the elements, a theme which will certainly dominate the autumn-winter 20-21 collections. This concept encompasses, for example, insulation, with the development of thermo-active materials, fabrics and fibres equipped with nanotechnologies, and intelligent augmented protection».

In addition to the dedicated sector within Fabrics, Première Vision also offers a Sport & Tech itinerary - available on the show app - bringing together nearly 700 exhibitors specialised in sports and technical materials who can be found at the show. This complete panorama comprises spinners, weavers, knitters, tanners, accessory makers, textile designers and fashion manufacturers.
 
SPOTLIGHT ON: A preview of a selection of Sport & Tech exhibitors

• Polartec: an insulation solution used by outdoor sports enthusiasts for nearly twenty years, Polartec® fabrics come in a variety of textures and weights and are specifically designed to improve performance in a wide range of environments;
• Pontetorto SportSystem: founded in 1952, Pontetorto offers a wide range of products from polar fleeces to stretch fabrics, including multilayers, windproofs, waterproof membranes and breathable materials;
• Schoeller textiles: a Swiss company specialised in developing innovative textiles, especially warm and resistant fabrics. ‘Cosmopolitan’, its multifunctional collection, perfectly meets the growing demand for high-performance style, with fabrics where outstanding performance features do not preclude a natural feel and perfect comfort;
• Swing by Gruppocinque: an Italian fabric manufacturer using innovative technologies and finishings such as resins, membranes and high-performance treatments;
• Mackent: has an offer of highly original textiles with a focus on shock-absorbing spacer knits for lingerie/ ready-to-wear pieces;
• Sportwear Argentona: a Spanish brand specialising in fabric manufacturing, is presenting its ‘2.0 fabrics’ with excellent breathability and high comfort. These are adaptable, lightweight, elastic, compressing with an innovative aesthetic.
• Global Merino: a maker of technical textiles using merino wool as a base product. It identifies the performance requirements of the item to be created and develops the fabric according to the end use;
• Shepherd: a vertically integrated producer of merino knits and apparel, including the world’s finest 13.5-micron merino fabric.

New performance codes to better identify innovation
4 new Performance Codes will be introduced at Première Vision Paris in September 2019:  

• Downproof, to indicate which fabrics will properly block feathers in quiltings;
• Multilayer, used very often for fabrics for the world of sports performance;
• Washable, for wash-resistant leathers;
• Ultralight, used exclusively for accessory components.

A varied and experiential Sport & Tech universe
A.    A virtual reality experience so visitors can fully immerse themselves in the theme
To offer visitors a live experience, Première Vision has designed a digital animation about the theme of protection. Using virtual reality, it is designed to expose visitors to a variety of environments and external elements (cold, wind, etc.).

B.    Dedicated fashion information
Protection doesn’t preclude creativity and style, in fact quite the opposite is true. This season will be marked by fantasy, with materials combining strong colours, prints, motifs and shine. Visitors will thus find an exclusive and creative Sport & Tech forum, built around the following 4 themes: Tech Tailoring, Ski Touring, Soft Outdoor and Snow Fun. It will bring together samples, components and clothing prototypes.

C.    A comprehensive and high-level conference program to help guide visitors in their choices
This edition, the conferences will be held in very central locations at the show. A space in Hall 3 will host the conferences focusing on innovation, and a space in Hall 6 will be reserved for conferences on fashion trends.

Here are some of the upcoming presentations dedicated to the world of Sport & Tech (Hall 6 conference space) taking place at Première Vision Paris September 2019:

• A conference by Pascal Monfort, founder of the REC trendsmarketing consulting firm, on the theme «The sport & fashion couple: more than ever inseparable!»;
• The presentation of a study on sport and fashion conducted in the French market by Union Sport & Cycle, which assessed the expectations of 12,500 consumers;
• Conferences decoding the fashion trends: « Performance, the challenge in fashion » and «Fashion & Sports major influences and innovations for AW 2021» including exhibitors’ pitchs to present their latest innovations.

Sources : ¹: Euromonitor International, ²: « Union Sport & Cycle » Study

• Korean sportswear market with above-average growth
• International companies expand / Brand awareness boosts consumption

Seoul (GTAI) - While consumption in Korea (Rep.) is generally weak, some segments show relatively high growth rates. Sales of sportswear have risen steadily over the past few years and are likely to rise in the future. Great sport events and the enthusiasm of the Koreans for prestige items are driving the segment, of which international companies benefit also. The market for outdoor clothing, on the other hand, has already reached its peak.

The sportswear market in Korea (Rep.) is developing dynamically. According to estimates by the market research institute Samsung Design Net, the segment premium sportswear reached a growth of Won 4.8% to 6.6 billion in 2016, (circa EUR 5.1 billion, 1 EURO = roughly 1.284 Won, - in the yearly average of 2016). As a result of this positive development, more and more international companies are pushing on the Korean market, thereby expanding the range of goods available for local customers. So far, a large proportion of orders has been sold via large international shopping portals. In the future, the local presence will gain in importance.

International companies are pushing on the market

The American manufacturer Under Armour started direct sales in 2017 with its first own store in Korea (Rep.). In January, after Dependance in Shanghai the company opened its worldwide second largest store in the nobel part Gangnam in Seoul. So far Under Armor had operated its sales mainly through smaller stores in partnership with a Korean retailer. For this reason four additional flagship stores as well as numerous shop-in-shops are to be implemented in during the year of 2017.

But other sector companies are also attracted by the Korean market, such as Lululemon Athletica, a Canadian company specializing in apparel for yoga. Lululemon has opened its first Asian branch in Seoul in 2016. Meanwhile a second store has been opened in Seoul, a third store is to follow later in the year 2017.    

German companies are well positioned

The German company Adidas also was able to generate very good results in the past on the Korean market. Despite a sluggish economy and weak consumption, the company turnover in Korea (Rep.) rose by around 15% in 2016. According to media reports, Adidas predicts a sales upturn of around 10% for 2017.

According to Eddie Nixon, CEO of Adidas Korea in the daily newspaper "Korea Times", the growth in 2016 was reached due to a high demand among young consumers, children and streetwear. The turnover of Adidas in 2016 reached around Won 1 billion in nearly 800 shops around the country. Most of them are managed on a franchise basis. For the Korean market therefore can be said, the population is more active and fitnessoriented than in other Asian countries.

Puma, on the other side, concentrates in Korea (Rep.) in addition to football articles mainly on its female clientele, which accounts for about 55% of its sales. According to Puma CEO Rasmus Holm in the "Korea Herald", this percentage is expected to rise even further as the market for sportswear is increasingly fashion-conscious. Also the influence of the entertainment sector on the segment is becoming increasingly apparent, which is why Puma is cooperating with K-Pop stars in the marketing sector.

According to Holm, the sportswear market in Korea (Rep.) is in a good growth phase. In the short run Puma will primarily focus on optimizing its existing shops. In future, an expansion of the business will be envisaged also, although no figures or timetables have been mentioned. However, the Korean market is not easy. The environment and competition are highly competitive. In addition to numerous international sector companies, local competitors are also well positioned.

"Korean Wave" as a location factor

Representatives of companies also refer to the appeal effect of Korea (Rep.) itself on other Asian countries in a consequence of the so-called "Hallyhu" - the "Korean Wave" of TV series, music and fashion. Numerous consumers in the region orientate themselves on developments in Korea (Rep.); the country is regarded as an international trendsetter in the cultural segment. Fashion and brands that are successful here often spread with a short time delay throughout Asia.

A very positive effect on the local sporting goods and clothing market, Korea (Rep.) will get through the two major sports events of global importance which will happen within ten months. In May and June 2017, the FIFA U20 World Cup will take place in six cities in the country, including a participation of the German team. Manufacturers can present their products to a global audience as well as at the Olympic
winter games, which will be held in Pyeongchang from February 9th to 25th 2018.

Boom at outdoor clothing fizzles

The KOFOTI (Korea Federation of Textile Industries) is more critical about the sector's prospects and forecasts a declining sales trend for 2017. However, this is partly due to the fact that the Korean market for outdoor clothing has shown a declining rate following a boom in the beginning of the decade. Until 2014 the sales of outdoor clothing reached double-digit growth rates partly of more than 30%.

The market was driven by a growing sense of leisure and a great passion of the Korean people for hiking. Between 2005 and 2012, the number of sector enterprises jumped from 30 brands to around 170. However the growth rates have declined gradually since 2012 and the market is estimated to have stagnated at a volume of Won 7.4 billion in 2015, some sector companies have already suffered high sales losses in a double-digit range.

For 2016, there are still no concrete figures for the overall market, but different indicators point to declining sales. So the import of footwear fell by 41.5% in 2016, imports of clothing made out of felt, fleece and PVC went down by 21.7%, anoraks and wind jackets for men declined by 5.4%. According to media reports a number of companies are already withdrawing from this segment due to market saturation. Others are orienting towards expanding areas such as fitness, running sports accessories as well as for yoga and golf wear.