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Deakin researchers surpass silkworm silk by taking a holistic approach	© Freyla Ferguson / Deakin University
17.04.2025

Deakin researchers surpass silkworm silk by taking a holistic approach

Dr Ben Allardyce and PhD candidate Mr Martin Zaki from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials’ (IFM) have delivered a world first in next generation materials research.

Silkworm silk is a protein-based fibre with mechanical properties rivalling petroleum-derived synthetic fibres yet spun using a fraction of the energy. Despite decades of research, aspects of natural silkworm spinning remain a mystery.

Dr Ben Allardyce and PhD candidate Mr Martin Zaki from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials’ (IFM) have delivered a world first in next generation materials research.

Silkworm silk is a protein-based fibre with mechanical properties rivalling petroleum-derived synthetic fibres yet spun using a fraction of the energy. Despite decades of research, aspects of natural silkworm spinning remain a mystery.

The IFM discovery takes researchers one step closer to solving this mystery by wet spinning a new class of silk that produces fibres that outperform natural silk.
 
A materials breakthrough

This research, led by Dr Allardyce and Mr Zaki, with expert input from Sheffield University's Professor Chris Holland, involves sidestepping degumming - a commonplace industrial process - and experimenting with dissolving whole silk fibres.
Using this new technique, the team were able to produce a spinnable solution that better imitates silk as it is produced by the silkworm. This solution was wet spun using IFM’s state-of-the art pilot fibre and textile facility to produce fibres that more closely matched natural silk.

According to IFM’s Deputy Director Joe Razal, the team’s discovery is a world first and demonstrates how IFM researchers are creating new sustainable materials that have real-world application and impact.

‘Ben and Martin challenged the norm by creating silk fibres in a laboratory setting,’ Professor Razal said.

‘They wet spun a cocktail of solubilised, non-separated silk components that mimic the properties produced in nature.’

‘The team identified a way to recreate the fibre produced by the silkworm and unlock the potential for it to be just as biodegradable, tough and energy efficient. In fact, when spun under identical conditions, undegummed solutions produces fibres 8 times stronger and 218 times tougher than degummed silk feedstocks.’

Undegummed versus degummed silk
‘Traditionally, industry has used degumming to unravel the silkworms cocoon to produce their fibres. It is also commonly used by researchers to facilitate “unspinning” silk back into a solution that can then be solidified into new forms,’ Professor Holland said.
’However removing a key component to the natural material, the sericin gum coating, often comes with collateral damage to the silk proteins and so it’s often considered a necessary evil.’

Mr Zaki explains that the team wanted to produce better materials while simultaneously understanding how.

‘We took a step back and asked why has no one attempted this? Is it because it is too hard, or because everyone degums silk and no one has considered doing something different?

In industry, the largest portion of water waste, labour, and energy consumption usually comes from the degumming process. By-passing this step, we increase the potential of a more sustainable technology.’

‘Undegummed cocoons are normally insoluble,’ adds Dr Allardyce. ‘Our innovative process combines a milling step followed by a supersaturated solvent that enables dissolution.’

‘No-one has attempted to artificially spin undegummed silk before. And no-one has ever successfully dissolved undegummed cocoons and re-spun them in this way.’
 
Future applications
Degummed silk is used in nerve repair, coating foods to improve shelf-life and biodegradable batteries.

This ground-breaking research forges a new pathway to recreate a fibre with structures akin to native silk.

Dr Allardyce maintains that it’s also an innovation that could apply to other next generation fibres.

‘If the knowledge could be applied to other biopolymers - other proteins, cellulosic fibres - we could potentially produce new fibres that have a fraction of the energy input to synthetics but perform just as well while retaining the advantage of biodegradability.’

Source:

Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials’ (IFM)

Image Felix, Pixabay
18.03.2025

Composites Germany - Results of the 24th Market Survey

For the 24th time, Composites Germany has collected current key figures on the market for fiber-reinforced plastics. All member companies of the supporting associations of Composites Germany: AVK and Composites United as well as the associated partner VDMA were surveyed.

In order to ensure that the different surveys can be compared without any problems, no fundamental changes were made to the survey this half-year. Once again, mainly qualitative data relating to current and future market developments was collected.

The current survey did not reveal any improvement in sentiment regarding the general business situation.

For the 24th time, Composites Germany has collected current key figures on the market for fiber-reinforced plastics. All member companies of the supporting associations of Composites Germany: AVK and Composites United as well as the associated partner VDMA were surveyed.

In order to ensure that the different surveys can be compared without any problems, no fundamental changes were made to the survey this half-year. Once again, mainly qualitative data relating to current and future market developments was collected.

The current survey did not reveal any improvement in sentiment regarding the general business situation.

Increasingly critical assessment of the current business situation
Apart from a few positive trends, the corresponding indicator has been pointing clearly downwards since 2022. There is still no sign of a trend reversal in the current survey either. (see Fig. 1). The assessment of the general business situation has fallen significantly in all regions mentioned.     

The reasons for the negative sentiment are varied and, in many cases, remain unchanged. High energy costs, raw material prices and logistics costs remain a major burden, particularly for German industry, but also for many other countries in Europe. In addition, the overall economy is weakening, especially in Europe and Germany. The key application areas for the composites industry - transportation/automotive and construction/infrastructure - are particularly affected by this.

In addition, many national economies are experiencing increasingly weak exports, particularly with regard to the Asian and especially Chinese markets. In terms of raw materials and finished products, for example in the automotive production sector, competition with European products is growing on a massive scale. This is partly due to overcapacities, but also to government subsidies, which in turn places an enormous price burden on suppliers. Political uncertainties, protectionist tendencies and armed conflicts are further worsening the economic climate.
           
The fact that politicians do not currently seem to be succeeding in creating an environment that is conducive to business remains a problem. Added to this is the lack of responses from European/German manufacturers. The composites market has already seen sharp declines in the last two years. There are still pessimistic signals from the industry for the current year. For the third year in a row, the European production volume is falling in contrast to a growing global market. The European composites industry is facing a progressive decline if it fails in creating a regulatory framework that enables competitive production. Germany is currently facing structural changes that are necessary, particularly in terms of economic policy and ecology. These necessary adjustments will take many years and require high levels of investment. It is urgently advisable to finally find a balance between the necessary burden on industry/companies and private households and the corresponding relief.

Future expectations show different trends
In line with the current negative mood in the industry, it is not only the assessment of the current general business situation that remains pessimistic; the future general market situation is also viewed extremely critically by those surveyed.

Only 19 % of respondents currently expect the global situation to improve. For Germany and Europe, the figure is only just over 10 %. The figure for Europe in particular has plummeted compared to the last survey.

This contrasts with a rather positive assessment of the company's own business situation. Here, the negative trend of the last two years for the global and European assessment of the company's own position has been halted. In the current survey, the indicators are turning positive.Only for Germany does the assessment remain critical. Only around 1/3 of respondents rate their own current situation positively. This also applies to future expectations. 28 % of those surveyed expect the general market situation in Germany to develop negatively. Only 21 % expect the current situation to improve.

The figures for Europe and the rest of the world are significantly better. Only 7 % expect the global situation to deteriorate further. The figure for Europe is 11 %.
      
Investment climate remains subdued
The current cautious assessment of the economic situation continues to have an impact on the investment climate. However, the first positive signs are also emerging here.          

While 13 % of respondents in the last survey still expected an increase in personnel capacity (survey 2/2024), this figure currently stands at 19 %. In contrast, however, 29 % still expect a decrease in personnel.

The proportion of respondents planning to invest in machinery continues to fall slightly. While 44 % were still assuming corresponding investments in the last survey, this figure has now fallen to 42 %.

Different expectations of application industries
The composites market is characterized by a high degree of heterogeneity in terms of both materials and applications. In the survey, the participants were asked to give their assessment of the market development of different core areas. The expectations are extremely varied.

The most important area of application for Composites is mobility. This area is currently undergoing major upheaval and is experiencing a massive crisis in Europe and Germany. This is also clearly reflected in the survey. Growth is expected above all in the aviation and construction/infrastructure sectors, although the construction sector in Germany is also in recession.

Growth drivers with slight movements
The current survey shows slight movement in terms of growth impetus. In terms of their assessment of which areas will provide the key growth impetus for the composites industry in the future, GFRP saw a slight increase. CFRP, on the other hand, declined slightly.

There is a slight regional shift. The main growth impetus is expected to come from Asia and North America, with Asia's mentions declining slightly and North America increasing slightly. However, the EU (with the exception of Germany) is also frequently cited as a growth region. Germany continues to be seen less strongly as a growth driver and remains at a low level.

Composites index divergent
As already indicated in the current text, the Composites Index points in different directions. While the assessment of the company's own business situation is turning positive, the assessment of the general business situation remains pessimistic.
      
In the last three years, the European composites market has lost almost 20 % of its production volume and has fallen back to the 2010/2011 level.

Almost all sectors are equally affected by declines. Until the coronavirus pandemic, there was a continuous increase in production volumes for many years. Since the end of the coronavirus crisis and with the increase in macroeconomic uncertainties, Europe and Germany in particular appear to be becoming less attractive as a business location. Europe's market share is now steadily declining despite an increase in global production volumes. There are many reasons for this, and there are no simple solutions. However, if the industrial location is to remain secure, something has to change quickly. Once companies have moved away, it is difficult to bring them back. It remains to be seen whether it will be possible to counteract this negative trend. Targeted intervention, including by political decision-makers, would be desirable here. However, this cannot succeed without industry/business. Only together will it be possible to maintain and strengthen Germany as a business/industry location. For composites as a material group in general, there are still very good opportunities to expand the market position in both new and existing markets due to the special portfolio of properties. However, the dependence on macroeconomic developments remains.

It is now important to develop new market areas through innovation, to consistently exploit opportunities and to work together to further implement composites in existing markets. This can often be achieved better together than alone. With its excellent network, Composites Germany offers a wide range of opportunities.

The next composites market survey will be published in August 2025.

Source:

Composites Germany

Schematic of the proposed portable and wearable system for rapid contrast therapy. (c) The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
26.02.2025

Pioneering Material Innovations for Enhanced Thermal Therapy

Rapid temperature contrast hydrotherapy, also known as contrast water therapy, involves alternating immersion in hot and cold water to aid in sports recovery. By rapidly switching between these temperature extremes, the therapy aims to invigorate the body's natural healing processes, making it a popular choice for athletes and individuals seeking relief from muscle soreness, joint pain, and stress.

Rapid temperature contrast hydrotherapy, also known as contrast water therapy, involves alternating immersion in hot and cold water to aid in sports recovery. By rapidly switching between these temperature extremes, the therapy aims to invigorate the body's natural healing processes, making it a popular choice for athletes and individuals seeking relief from muscle soreness, joint pain, and stress.

As a result, contrast water therapy is an effective strategy for enhancing overall athletic performance and facilitating faster recovery after competitions. Traditionally, contrast water therapy involves using two baths filled with cold and hot water respectively at precisely controlled constant temperatures . However, the facilities and significant water consumption required restrict the application of this therapy in daily athletic training. Existing wearable cooling and heating systems often struggle with limited heat transfer rates between the device and the human body, failing to meet the requirement for practical contrast water therapy.

A study published in Advanced Science highlights a breakthrough developed by a research team led by Prof. Xiaoming TAO, Chair Professor of Textile Technology of the School of Fashion and Textiles and Vincent and Lily Woo Professor in Textile Technology at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University. The team created a novel portable system based on a wearable fluidic fabric device to facilitate rapid skin temperature modulation. The innovative system enables athletes to experience the benefits of contrast water therapy without the need for actual water immersion.

The system comprises several key components, which include wearable fluidic fabrics, a small water tank (with a volume of three litres, designed for one leg), a control machine for temperature regulation, a water pump, and a connection tube (Figure 1). The wearable fluidic fabrics are designed with multiple layers to optimise performance. These layers include an outer thermal insulation fabric layer for reducing heat transfer between fluid and the surrounding environment, a middle flexible heat transfer panel (FHTP) layer, and an ultra-thin inner fabric layer that is in contact with the skin (Figure 2). The core FHTP layer consists of two pieces of laminated fabrics that are joined together by one-step welding. To achieve a uniform and rapid cooling/heating effect, the FHTP is designed with both serpentine and network channel patterns.

The system features rapid cooling/heating transitions within ten seconds over an effective area of 0.3 square metre. Using a smartphone app, users can initiate the temperature therapy program, which allows either warm or cool water to be pumped from the tank into the channels within the fabric before being recirculated back into the tank. Each therapy cycle comprises two distinct modes: cold mode and hot mode. In the cold mode, the temperature of circulating water is set to approximately 5 °C for one minute. In this mode, the flowing water absorbs heat from the skin and the surrounding environment. In the hot mode, the water temperature is raised to 40 °C for two minutes. During this phase, heat is dissipated into the skin and the surroundings.

The wearable fluidic fabric device exhibits exceptional heat transfer properties. During cold therapy, the heat transfer coefficient measured between the skin and the fabric is 98.5 W m⁻² K⁻¹. This performance translates to an impressive 92% efficiency compared to direct water immersion, significantly surpassing that of benchmark liquid cooling garments, which typically exhibit heat transfer coefficients ranging from 13 to 37 W m⁻² K⁻¹. Overall, the FHTP demonstrates strong heat transfer capability. Specifically, the heat transfer effectiveness of the FHTP reaches up to 89% during cold therapy and approximately 55% during hot therapy.

This study marks a significant breakthrough in the development of wearable fluidic fabric capable of rapidly modulating skin temperature within a wide range—from 5 °C to 40 °C. In addition to its effectiveness in contrast water therapy, this innovative fluidic fabric presents extended potential applications in skin thermal management for medical purposes as well as in extreme situations such as encountered during fire protection activity.

The research is supported by the Sport Science and Research Funding Scheme of the Hong Kong SAR Government and Hong Kong Jockey Club Charities Trust [No. P0042455], as well as the Endowed Professorship Fund of The Hong Kong Polytechnic University [No. 847A]. The data source and code can be obtained from the corresponding authors upon request.

Prof. Tao has been recognised by Stanford University as one of the top 2% most-cited scientists worldwide (career-long) in the field of materials for six consecutive years from 2019 to 2024. In acknowledgement of her outstanding contributions and expertise in engineering, she was elected as a Fellow of the Hong Kong Academy of Engineering in 2025. Currently, Prof. Tao serves as the Director of the Research Institute for Intelligent Wearable Systems at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University.

Source:

The Hong Kong Polytechnic University: Study by Prof. Xiaoming TAO and Team.

Medical textiles, Pixabay Image: Sasin Tipchai on Pixabay
11.02.2025

Medical textiles with infection protection

In collaboration with Heraeus, the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are developing fibers and textiles with a novel infection protection system. The basis is an antimicrobial mechanism of action licensed from Heraeus and marketed under the name AGXX. The goal of the collaboration is to optimally integrate the AGXX technology into textile finishes and coatings and to incorporate it into fiber-spinnable polymers. This will provide medical textiles with highly effective and long-lasting protection against microbial infections.
 

In collaboration with Heraeus, the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are developing fibers and textiles with a novel infection protection system. The basis is an antimicrobial mechanism of action licensed from Heraeus and marketed under the name AGXX. The goal of the collaboration is to optimally integrate the AGXX technology into textile finishes and coatings and to incorporate it into fiber-spinnable polymers. This will provide medical textiles with highly effective and long-lasting protection against microbial infections.
 
AGXX technology is based on an entirely new mechanism of action. It uses a catalytic redox reaction initiated by metallic AGXX particles consisting of silver and ruthenium. In interaction with humidity, reactive oxygen species such as peroxides are formed. These are oxygen-containing molecules with very high reactivity. They effectively kill microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and algae and are equally effective against viruses.

The special feature of this mechanism of action is that the AGXX particles are not reduced and do not release any active ingredients. In established antimicrobial systems based on the release of silver ions, the release of active ingredients has become a problem: the release of the silver ion concentration is difficult to control and many of the established systems do not meet the requirements of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). Such systems will disappear from the market in the medium term and must be replaced by alternatives.

In addition to permanent efficacy, the AGXX technology offers a particularly broad spectrum of protection against pathogens and prevents the formation of resistance.
      
Heraeus AGXX technology has reached a high level of development and is used in various industries. In general, AGXX particles can be easily incorporated into various materials. However, textiles used in the medical sector are subject to more stringent requirements. The resistance of the antimicrobial protection mechanism must be high, as contaminated textiles can be a source of transmission of pathogens over a long period of time. Modification of the textile material, either by surface treatment (finishing or coating) or by incorporation of AGXX into filament yarns, should not adversely affect the physiology of the garment. This is because a reduction in textile properties is unlikely to be accepted by the wearers of the textiles.

The integration of AGXX particles into textile finishes and fiber spinnable polymers is the focus of the joint research approach of the DITF and Heraeus. The goal is not only to determine the optimal concentration of AGXX particles to provide the best possible protection against infection without compromising the mechanical properties of the textiles. The technical prerequisites for the development of suitable textile finishes and the compounding of polymer melts are also being created.

The resulting textile samples are tested for antimicrobial and antiviral activity in the DITF's own laboratories. Here, finishes and coatings for polyester and polyamide fabrics showed convincing results. The compounding of AGXX in the PA6 polymer melt enabled the production of filament fibers with consistently good fiber strength values.

The determination of textile mechanical parameters such as abrasion resistance, air permeability and dimensional change as a function of number of wash cycles is still in progress. However, it is becoming apparent that textiles modified with AGXX are consistently effective without having an excessive impact on the nature of the textile.

The results of the research are an important contribution to reducing the risk of infection from medical workwear. They form the basis for future industrial production of textiles for durable and reliable protection against infection.

Source:

DITF Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung
Contact: Dipl.-Ing. Cigdem Kaya, Competence Center Textile Chemistry, Environment & Energy, Barrier textiles

Photo by FlyD on Unsplash
04.02.2025

Sustainable Textiles – The Way Forward

High dependence on fossil carbon, associated high carbon footprint, low recycling rates and microplastics: several solutions are emerging.

The evolution of the demand for textile fibres from 1960 to the present day shows how the textile industry found itself in this dilemma. In 1960, around 95% of textile fibres were of natural origin, from bio-based carbon, and there was no problem with microplastics, all fibres were biodegradable.

High dependence on fossil carbon, associated high carbon footprint, low recycling rates and microplastics: several solutions are emerging.

The evolution of the demand for textile fibres from 1960 to the present day shows how the textile industry found itself in this dilemma. In 1960, around 95% of textile fibres were of natural origin, from bio-based carbon, and there was no problem with microplastics, all fibres were biodegradable.

The explosion in demand – 650% between 1960 and 2023 – could only be met by synthetic fibres from the chemical and plastics industries. Their share grew from 3% in 1960 to 68% in 2023 and from less than 700,000 tonnes to 85 million tonnes/year (The Fiber Year 2024). The new fibres covered a wide range of properties, could even achieve previously unknown properties and, above all, thanks to a powerful and innovative chemical and plastics industry, production volumes could be rapidly increased and comparatively low prices realised.
 
At the same time, sustainability has declined, the carbon footprint of the textiles has increased significantly and the issue of microplastics requires solutions.

The first step would be to significantly increase the proportion of renewable fibres, as this is the only way to reduce dependence on fossil carbon, especially in the form of crude oil, and thus reduce the carbon footprint. But how can this be done? As defined by the Renewable Carbon Initiative, renewable carbon comes from biomass, CO2 and recycling: From carbon above ground. This addresses the core problem of climate change, which is extracting and using additional fossil carbon from the ground that will end up in the atmosphere.
 
What can cotton, bast fibres and wool contribute?
Cotton fibre production can hardly be increased, it is stagnating between 20 and max. 25 million tonnes/year. Cultivated areas can hardly be expanded, and existing areas are salinized by the irrigation required. With the exception of about 1% organic cotton, significant amounts of pesticides are used. The market share of “preferred” cotton – defined by a list of recognized programmes – will fall from 27% of total cotton production in 2019/20 to 24% in 2020/21, after years of growth. (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report) Bast fibres such as jute (75%), flax, hemp, ramie or kenaf would require a huge boost in technology development and capacity investment and will nevertheless probably remain more expensive than cotton, simply because bast fibres are much more complicated to process, e.g. separating the fibre from the stalk, which is not necessary for cotton as a fruit fibre. As a source of cellulose fibre, bast fibres will remain more expensive than wood.

Although bast fibres are more sustainable than many other fibres, there is unlikely to be a major change – unless China focuses on bast fibres as a substitute for cotton. Plans to do so have been put on hold due to technological problems.

The importance of man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) or simply cellulose fibres
Cellulose fibre production has been growing steadily over the last decades, reaching an all-time high of nearly 8 million tonnes in 2023, and is expected to grow further to 11 million tonnes in 2030. Cellulosic fibres are the only bio-based and biodegradable fibres that cover a wider range of properties and applications and can rapidly increase their capacity. The raw materials can be virgin wood as well as all types of cellulosic waste streams from forestry, agriculture, cotton processing waste, textile waste and paper waste. Increasing the share of cellulosic fibres will therefore play a crucial role in solving the sustainability challenges of the textile industry.

The production of MMCFs includes viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate and cupro. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC certified MMCF increased from 55–60% in 2020 to 60–65% of all MMCF in 2021. The market share of “recycled MMCFs” increased to an estimated share of 0.5%. Much research and development is underway. As a result, the volumes of recycled MMCFs are expected to increase significantly in the coming years. (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report)

The CEPI study “Forest-Based Biorefineries: Innovative Bio-Based Products for a Clean Transition” (renewable-carbon.eu/publications/product/innovative-bio-based-products-for-a-clean-transition-pdf/) identified 143 biorefineries in Europe, of which 126 are operational and 17 are planned. Most of them are based on chemical pulping (67%) – the precursor of cellulose fibres. Most biorefineries are located in Sweden, Finland, Germany, Portugal and Austria. But there are already biorefineries in operation or planned in 18 different European countries.

The global report “Is there enough biomass to defossilise the Chemicals and Derived Materials Sector by 2050?” (upcoming publication end of February 2025, available here: renewablecarbon.eu/publications) shows particularly high growth in dissolving/chemical pulp (from 9 in 2020 to 44 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 406%), cellulose fibres (from 7 in 2020 to 38 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 447%) and cellulose derivatives (from 2 in 2020 to 6 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 190%).

Biosynthetics – Bio-based and CO2-based Synthetic Fibres
To further reduce the share of fossil-based synthetic fibres, bio-based polymer fibres (also called “biosynthetics”) are an excellent option because of their wide range of properties – only the implementation will take decades as the share today is only below 0.5%. There are many options, such as polyester fibres (PLA, PTT, PEF, PHA), polyolefin fibres (PE/PP), bio-based PA fibres from castor oil. PTT, for example, is well established in the US carpet market and PLA in the hygiene market. They are all bio-based, but only a few are also biodegradable (PLA, PHA).
 
Biosynthetics are one of many applications of bio-based polymers. In general, 17 bio-based polymers are currently commercially available with an installed capacity of over 4 million tonnes in 2023. Ten of these bio-based polymers are used as biosynthetics. resulting in the production of over one million tonnes of biosynthetics (nova report: Bio-based Building Blocks and Polymers – Global Capacities, Production and Trends 2023–2028, renewable-carbon.eu/publications/product/bio-based-buildingblocks-and-polymers-global-capacities-production-and-trends-2023-2028-short-version/).

In principle, many fibres can also be made from CO2, but here the technology and capacity needs to be developed, perhaps in parallel with the production of sustainable aviation fuels from CO2, which will become mandatory.

Circular Economy – Recycling of Textile Waste & Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling
The textile industry is at a pivotal moment, where sustainability is no longer an option but a necessity. As the environmental impact of textile production and disposal becomes increasingly clear, the pressure to adopt circular economy principles is growing.

One promising solution is fibre-to-fibre recycling, a process that converts used textiles into new, highquality fibres, effectively closing the waste loop. While significant progress has been made in the European Union, challenges remain, particularly in scaling up technologies, lack of collection systems and handling of mixed fibre textiles. Europe currently generates approximately 6.95 (1.25 + 5.7) million tonnes of textile waste per year, of which only 1.95 million tonnes is collected separately and 1.02 million tonnes is treated by recycling or backfilling.
 
The recycling of textiles reduces the demand for virgin fibres and the textile footprint. The share of recycled fibres increased slightly from 8.4% in 2020 to 8.9% in 2021, mainly due to an increase in bottlebased PET fibres. However, in 2021, less than 1% of the global fibre market will come from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report). New regulations from Brussels for closed-loop recycling, especially bottle-to-bottle recycling, could threaten the use of bottle-based PET fibres in the textile industry. This would mean a reduction in recycling rates in the textile industry until the logistics and technologies are in place to recycle textiles on a large scale. This will be necessary to contribute to the circular economy. Several research projects are underway to find solutions and first pilot implementations are available.

The Future of Sustainable Textiles
The sustainable textile industry of the future will be built on a foundation of cotton fibres and fast-growing cellulose fibres, later strongly supported by bio- and CO2-based synthetic fibres (“biosynthetics”), and high recycling rates for all types of fibres. This combination can eventually replace most fossil-based synthetic fibres by 2050.

To get the latest information on cellulose fibres, the nova-Institute organises the “Cellulose Fibres Conference” every year, which will take place next time in Cologne on 12 and 13 March 2025 – this year for the first time with biosynthetics.

Source:

Michael Carus and Dr. Asta Partanen, nova-Institute (Germany)

fashion waste AI generated, Pete Linforth from Pixabay
07.01.2025

Study calls for city fashion waste shakeup

With most donated clothes exported or thrown away, experts are calling for a shakeup of how we deal with the growing fashion waste issue.

A first of its kind study, published in Nature Cities, analysed what happens to clothes and other textiles after consumers no longer want them in Amsterdam, Austin, Berlin, Geneva, Luxembourg, Manchester, Melbourne, Oslo and Toronto.

Across most western cities from Melbourne to Manchester it found the same pattern of textile waste being exported, going to landfill or being dumped in the environment.

Global textiles waste each year weighs 92 million tonnes and this could double by 2030.

Charity shops handle a large amount of used clothes, but the study found because many are poor quality and there's little financial benefit to manage them locally, charities trade some valuable items and discard or export the rest.

With most donated clothes exported or thrown away, experts are calling for a shakeup of how we deal with the growing fashion waste issue.

A first of its kind study, published in Nature Cities, analysed what happens to clothes and other textiles after consumers no longer want them in Amsterdam, Austin, Berlin, Geneva, Luxembourg, Manchester, Melbourne, Oslo and Toronto.

Across most western cities from Melbourne to Manchester it found the same pattern of textile waste being exported, going to landfill or being dumped in the environment.

Global textiles waste each year weighs 92 million tonnes and this could double by 2030.

Charity shops handle a large amount of used clothes, but the study found because many are poor quality and there's little financial benefit to manage them locally, charities trade some valuable items and discard or export the rest.

In Melbourne, charities export high-quality, often vintage, second-hand clothes to Europe, forcing the city’s independent resale businesses to import similar apparel back from Europe or the United States.
But overall, charities and collectors have been reporting the plummeting quality of garments over the past 15 to 20 years, decreasing resale potential.

Study co-author Dr Yassie Samie, from RMIT University, said local governments and charities need to coordinate more to manage textile waste.

“We're used to charities doing the heavy lifting, but they’ve been unable to fully handle the volume of donated clothes for a long time now,” Samie said.

“Charities are driven by social welfare values and need to raise funds for their programs.

“However, their operations are ill-equipped to deal with the volume of used textiles that need to be reused and recycled.

“Given the role of charities within communities, it's essential they expand beyond direct resale in second-hand shops and explore other business models, such as swapping and repair centres.”

Overconsumption and oversupply were the main drivers of the cities’ textile waste, causing the export of between 33% (Australia) and 97% (Norway) of donated clothes.

Collaboration in local networks the key
Most local governments in the cities studied did not get involved in textile waste beyond providing public spaces and licenses for charity bins and commercial resellers.

Across cities like Melbourne, local governments send dumped textiles directly to landfill, instead of diverting to recycling or reuse facilities or other local alternatives.

“This indicates the lack of mechanism and incentives in place to drive real systemic change,” Samie said.

Amsterdam was the opposite – its municipality manages collection and sorting of unwanted clothes and encourages collection of all textiles, including nonreusable ones.

From January 2025, European Union Member States must establish separate collection systems for used textiles.

But the biggest per capita discarders of textile waste, Australia and the US, have no such regulation.

Fashion advertising ban
Samie said it was important to incentivise promotion of local alternatives to fast fashion, including reselling, swapping and repairing.

“Sustainable fashion initiatives like second-hand retailers struggle to compete with fashion brands’ big marketing budgets and convenient locations,” she said.

“Fast fashion alternatives exist but they are under-promoted, despite their potential to significantly reduce cities’ textile waste.”

To create more space for these alternatives, the study’s authors called for a ban on fashion advertising in cities. “A ban on fashion advertisements would give more space to promote more sustainable alternatives,” Samie said.

France recently introduced a ban on advertising ultra-fast fashion, while each item will come with a penalty of up to 10 euros by 2030.

Samie said she would like to work with local governments to find better uses for discarded textiles.

‘Urban transitions toward sufficiency-oriented circular post-consumer textile economies’, with Katia Vladimirova, Yassie Samie, Irene Maldini, Samira Iran, Kirsi Laitala, Claudia E. Henninger, Sarah Ibrahim Alosaimi, Kelly Drennan, Hannah Lam, Ana-Luisa Teixeira, Iva Jestratijevic and Sabine Weber, is published in Nature Cities (DOI: 10.1038/s44284-024-00140-7).
Source: Aеden Rаtcliffe, RMIT University

More information:
textile waste Fast Fashion
Source:

Aеden Rаtcliffe, RMIT University

Heimtextil Trends Photo: Alcova für Heimtextil
20.12.2024

Storytelling and natural beauty - solutions for retailers

Price pressure, reluctance to buy and changing demands on the longevity of products. Retailers around the world are facing similar challenges. Heimtextil Trends 25/26, curated by the Milan-based design platform Alcova, consciously addresses these challenges and provides valuable inspiration and conclusive solutions. Visitors will find these in the Trend Arena in Hall 3.0 at Heimtextil from 14 to 17 January 2025.

Price pressure, reluctance to buy and changing demands on the longevity of products. Retailers around the world are facing similar challenges. Heimtextil Trends 25/26, curated by the Milan-based design platform Alcova, consciously addresses these challenges and provides valuable inspiration and conclusive solutions. Visitors will find these in the Trend Arena in Hall 3.0 at Heimtextil from 14 to 17 January 2025.

With its three themes - ‘Naturally Uneven’, ‘Radically Restructured’ and ‘Regenerative’ - Heimtextil Trends 25/26 focuses on key values such as integrity, longevity and ecological awareness. These themes reflect what is becoming increasingly important to customers: Products that not only impress with their aesthetics, but also fulfil ethical and ecological requirements. These approaches can be experienced live in the Trend Arena - from material qualities and colours to innovative production processes. Retailers will be given concrete inspiration and tools to orientate their product range towards more conscious consumption. After all, consumers' purchasing decisions are clear: long-lasting, highquality products that are also produced in a socially and environmentally responsible way are very popular. A recent study conducted by IFH on behalf of Messe Frankfurt confirms this. Consumers are becoming increasingly selective and weigh things up carefully before making a purchase decision. When they decide in favour of a product, it must be convincing in all areas: durable, high quality - but also sustainable. After all, the majority of Europeans attach great importance to sustainability when it comes to home textiles. Aspects such as long-lasting products, recyclable materials and transparency are among the key criteria.

The beauty of the imperfect: ‘Naturally Uneven’
‘Naturally Uneven’ celebrates the rawness and authenticity of natural materials. Fabrics such as linen, hemp, jute and wool stand for organic structures and handmade perfection in the imperfect. Small imperfections and natural grains make each piece unique and tell stories of craftsmanship and originality. The colour palette emphasises this natural aesthetic: soft grey like untreated stone, unbleached fibre tones and the delicate ‘Rose of Permanence’, which symbolises down-to-earthness and timelessness.

Innovation meets sustainability: ‘Radically Restructured’
This theme shows how advanced technologies and environmentally conscious design merge. The focus is on recycled materials that minimise the consumption of resources and set new standards in textile production. Heavy and light, transparent and opaque - these contrasts create a fascinating interplay of structure and appearance. In terms of colour, bold shades such as ‘End of Petrol’ and ‘New Green Deal’ dominate, visualising the upheaval. Techniques such as 3D weaving, digital printing and laser cutting reflect the innovative power that characterises this approach.

Redefining circular thinking: ‘Regenerative’
‘Regenerative’ embodies the principles of renewal, growth and circularity for customers who want to help shape a more sustainable future. Here you will find a mix of natural, recycled and bio-based fibres from linen, hemp and recycled wool to textiles that have been upcycled or reused. Handcrafted elements and techniques underline the focus on imperfection and individuality, while colours such as ‘Regenerative Azure’ or ‘Repairable Green’ convey the theme in all its many facets.

More information:
Heimtextil Trends Retail
Source:

Messe Frankfurt

ISPO Awards (c) Messe München
03.12.2024

ISPO 2024: Awarded Innovations & Tomorrow’s Newcomers

ISPO Munich, the world’s leading trade fair for the sports industry and the world’s largest sports business event, is about to begin and will soon present the prestigious ISPO Awards to the most innovative products and newcomers of tomorrow. The ISPO Awards are regarded as a global driving force for the sports industry. Showcasing the latest trends and innovations in product design, materials and digital solutions, these awards set new standards for the future of the sports industry.

The best products of 2024 will be honoured at ISPO Munich in December and can be seen at the ISPO Award area in Hall B1 from 3 to 5 December 2024. At the same time, newcomers to the sports and outdoor industry will be given a stage at ISPO Brandnew, the largest start-up competition in the sports business, where they will present their innovative products in exciting live pitches during ISPO Munich. The grand finale will take place on the second day of the event on the Main Stage.

ISPO Munich, the world’s leading trade fair for the sports industry and the world’s largest sports business event, is about to begin and will soon present the prestigious ISPO Awards to the most innovative products and newcomers of tomorrow. The ISPO Awards are regarded as a global driving force for the sports industry. Showcasing the latest trends and innovations in product design, materials and digital solutions, these awards set new standards for the future of the sports industry.

The best products of 2024 will be honoured at ISPO Munich in December and can be seen at the ISPO Award area in Hall B1 from 3 to 5 December 2024. At the same time, newcomers to the sports and outdoor industry will be given a stage at ISPO Brandnew, the largest start-up competition in the sports business, where they will present their innovative products in exciting live pitches during ISPO Munich. The grand finale will take place on the second day of the event on the Main Stage.

The ISPO Award seal of quality is given to sports products with a particularly high level of innovation, thus providing a curated overview of the most important trends in the industry. For the brands, innovations are enormously important and indispensable, whether in the textile sector, where much has changed in terms of materials, or in the integration of AI into all sub-sectors of the sporting goods industry. An expert jury of business professionals and regularly changing, sports-loving retail consumers from the ISPO Collaborators Club will review the submitted product innovations in advance and award prizes to the ones that meet the relevant criteria.

The submitted products make it possible to identify and observe trends. In 2024, the spectrum of trends continues to include sustainability in relation to textile innovations, the circular economy and recycling, as well as retail consumers’ desire for multipurpose use of diverse products. The integration of technology and the ever-growing role of AI numbers among the most exciting observations.

SUSTAINABILITY AS THE STANDARD
New EU legislation has led to an acceleration in the development of sustainable, functional materials. At this year’s ISPO Award jury meetings, numerous exciting material innovations were observed, especially in the textile sector. Progress in chemical treatments, such as PFC-free DWRs and textiles, is also remarkable. “Sustainability is increasingly becoming the norm, which means that consumers are coming to expect it as standard”, says juror and textile expert Dr Regina Henkel. “Progress is visible, for example, in the use of mono-materials or bio-based fabrics such as wool-Tencel blends”, which are used, for example, in this year’s ISPO Award winner Icebreaker with the Merino Blend 800 RealFleece Classic Pile LS Zip.

The ISPO Award entries also make it obvious that the performance of sustainable products made from recycled fibres has improved markedly so that the functionality of these products is now fully on a par with non-recycled items. Nevertheless, recycling will not be the solution to all future challenges, which is why manufacturers are increasingly incorporating into their collections natural fibres and biodegradable sports textiles, either in pure form or as a blend.

MULTI-USE REMAINS A TOP TREND
The trend towards multifunctional products reflects consumers’ desire for practical solutions. Particularly in Asia, multifunctional hardware products are perceived positively, while in Europe the focus is on textiles for multifunctional use. “High-quality, high-performance materials and designs are being adapted as everyday fashion, thus appealing to a broader target group”, explains trade journalist Dr Martina Wengenmeir, who is also one of the ISPO Award’s jurors. The “urban outdoor” trend is continuing and multipurpose products are also coming into focus in the area of commitment. One example of this is the Outdoor Backpack 45L from Peak Design, which combines fashionable and multifunctional design with full performance.

ISPO Award juror Dr Wengenmeir has identified another trend: “There is a growing focus on technical sports products designed specifically for women. These include football shoes with a design that is genuinely their own. This development goes beyond simple adjustments and includes well-thought-out designs in terms of fit and functionality.” These also include the BettHer - Bra Antishock+: the bra relies on a patented thermoplastic gel technology that provides excellent shock absorption and protection during intense activities.

INTEGRATION OF TECHNOLOGY
A trend from Asia that is also arriving in Europe is the integration of technology into clothing, for example through sensors and warmth apps. The personalisation of garments using technologies such as AI and sensor technology for temperature regulation is regarded as a potential growth area, despite concerns about sustainability.

Technology is also playing an increasingly important role for brick-and-mortar retailers, for example, when it comes to analysing the right product for the customer. Treadmills for running analysis are well known, but this year’s ISPO Award winner, the Skimulator, is a patented world first for a perfect fit of ski boots. This state-of-the-art simulator precisely simulates slope gradients, thus enabling the perfect fit of the ski boot.

ISPO BRANDNEW AWARD
ISPO Munich also provides a stage for the most innovative and creative newcomers in the sports and outdoor industry. Previous ISPO Brandnew winners include pioneering brands from all over the world that have redefined the boundaries of their respective fields with innovative materials, cutting-edge technology and sustainable action. Four start-ups each from the categories “Outdoor & Adventure & Snowsports”, “Performance, Body & Mind (physical product)”, “Sustainability” and “Sports Technology & Platforms” will pitch their ideas live on the main stage. A sneak peek at the innovations on show includes: BreezeLabs, which monitors breathing patterns during exercise; no normal coffee, coffee in a tube; and the AeroGraph Puffer Jacket, a weather-insulating jacket. The winner will be announced in the grand finale on the second day of the fair (4 December 2024).

Source:

Messe München

Graphik University of Copenhagen
22.11.2024

New nanofiber patch for treatment of psoriasis

Researchers at the University of Copenhagen have developed a patch for easier and more effective treatment of psoriasis. The method may also be used in treatment of other inflammatory skin diseases.

4-5 per cent of the Danish population has psoriasis, which is one of the most common skin conditions in the world. The inflammatory disease is characterised by a red rash with white scales, which may vary in form, size and severity.

Today, there are several treatment options for psoriasis patients. Creams and ointments are among the most common. The problem is that the cream must be applied several times a day and leaves the skin feeling greasy, and therefore, some patients often fail to use it consistently, which is vital for treatment success.

Now researchers at the University of Copenhagen have produced a prototype for a patch that may help solve this problem for patients with smaller demarcated areas of plaque psoriasis.

Researchers at the University of Copenhagen have developed a patch for easier and more effective treatment of psoriasis. The method may also be used in treatment of other inflammatory skin diseases.

4-5 per cent of the Danish population has psoriasis, which is one of the most common skin conditions in the world. The inflammatory disease is characterised by a red rash with white scales, which may vary in form, size and severity.

Today, there are several treatment options for psoriasis patients. Creams and ointments are among the most common. The problem is that the cream must be applied several times a day and leaves the skin feeling greasy, and therefore, some patients often fail to use it consistently, which is vital for treatment success.

Now researchers at the University of Copenhagen have produced a prototype for a patch that may help solve this problem for patients with smaller demarcated areas of plaque psoriasis.

“We have developed a dry patch, which contains active ingredients for treatment of psoriasis, and which reduces the frequency of use to once a day. It has the potential to make treatment more comfortable for plaque psoriasis patients,” says Associate Professor Andrea Heinz from the Department of Pharmacy, who is the corresponding author on a series of articles exploring the patch’s ability to treat plaque psoriasis.

One patch serving several functions
The patch is designed to contain two active ingredients at once and release them onto the skin at different rates.

“It is really clever, because treatment of psoriasis often requires more than one product. The two ingredients are released in a controlled manner and at different rates, as they serve different functions: Salicylic acid is released immediately to remove the dead cells that have accumulated on the skin, while hydrocortisone decreases inflammation of the skin – a process that takes more time,” says first author of the studies Anna-Lena Gürtler and adds:

“We have tested the prototype on pig skin and human skin cells and compared the results to the creams and ointments available at pharmacies, and our studies show that the patch is just as effective as standard treatments.”

Potential to treat other conditions
The researchers used electrospinning to produce the patch – a method where high voltage is applied to a polymer solution to produce synthetic nanofibers. The fibres are then used to make a fibre mat that may be attached to the skin like a plaster.

The researchers are still working on the patch. More research, product development and clinical trials are needed before the method is ready for use. According to Andrea Heinz, though, it has great potential that extends beyond psoriasis treatment:

“A patch containing active ingredients may be an alternative to creams and ointments in the treatment of other inflammatory skin diseases, for instance atopic eczema. It may also be useful in connection with wound healing.”

More information:
psoriasis patch Elektrospinning
Source:

William Brøns Petersen, University of Copernhagen

PhD scholar Nayanatara Ruppegoda Gamage (left) and Dr Chamila Gunasekara with concrete samples made using textiles. Credit: RMIT University
19.11.2024

Carpet fibres stop concrete cracking

Engineers in Australia have found a way to make stronger and crack-resistant concrete with scrap carpet fibres, rolling out the red carpet for sustainability in the construction sector.

The research team is engaging with partners including Textile Recyclers Australia, Godfrey Hirst Australia and councils in Victoria to conduct field studies of on-ground slabs made of reclaimed textiles.

Lead researcher Dr Chamila Gunasekara from RMIT University said the team had developed a technique using waste carpet fibres to reduce early-age shrinkage cracking in concrete by up to 30%, while also improving the concrete’s durability.

This research addresses a major challenge in the construction sector, as the annual cost of repair for cracks in reinforced concrete structures in Australia is about A$8 billion. In the US, the cost is estimated at US$76 billion per year.

Engineers in Australia have found a way to make stronger and crack-resistant concrete with scrap carpet fibres, rolling out the red carpet for sustainability in the construction sector.

The research team is engaging with partners including Textile Recyclers Australia, Godfrey Hirst Australia and councils in Victoria to conduct field studies of on-ground slabs made of reclaimed textiles.

Lead researcher Dr Chamila Gunasekara from RMIT University said the team had developed a technique using waste carpet fibres to reduce early-age shrinkage cracking in concrete by up to 30%, while also improving the concrete’s durability.

This research addresses a major challenge in the construction sector, as the annual cost of repair for cracks in reinforced concrete structures in Australia is about A$8 billion. In the US, the cost is estimated at US$76 billion per year.

Publishing their latest results in the Construction and Building Materials journal, the team has shown that waste carpet material can be used to improve concrete.

With state-of-the-art textile research facilities at RMIT, the team of civil engineers and textile researchers has also been able to use other discarded textiles including clothing fabrics to make concrete stronger.

“Cracking in early-age concrete slabs is a long-standing challenge in construction projects that can cause premature corrosion, not only making a building look bad but also risking its structural integrity and safety,” said Gunasekara, an ARC DECRA fellow from the School of Engineering.

“Scrap carpet fibres can be used to increase concrete’s strength by 40% in tension and prevent early cracking, by reducing shrinkage substantially.”

Laboratory concrete samples have been created using the various textile materials and shown to meet Australian Standards for engineering performance and environmental requirements.

Addressing a big waste challenge
The disposal of carpets and other textiles including discarded fabrics poses an enormous environmental challenge, Gunasekara said.

“Australia is the second largest consumer of textiles per person in the world, after the US. The average Australian purchases 27kg of new clothing and textiles every year, and discards 23kg into landfill,” he said.

“Burning carpet waste releases various toxic gases, creating environmental concerns.”

Dr Shadi Houshyar, a textile and material scientist at RMIT, said firefighting clothes waste also posed a challenge, as the same qualities that made these materials ideal for firefighting also made them difficult to recycle.

“Up to 70% of textile waste would be suitable for conversion into usable fibres, presenting an opportunity in the materials supply chain,” said Houshyar, from the School of Engineering.  

Working with industry and government to support the recycling of waste
Field trials conducted with support from industry and local government partners will help capture the unexpected conditions encountered in real-world construction projects.

The ARC Industrial Transformation Research Hub for Transformation of Reclaimed Waste Resources to Engineered Materials and Solutions for a Circular Economy (TREMS) and an early-career research grant will fund the field trials as well as computational modelling. TREMS is led by Professor Sujeeva Setunge from RMIT.

The team is collaborating with Professor Andrzej Cwirzen Luleå University of Technology in Sweden on computational modelling.

Source:

Will Wright, RMIT University

Waterfiltration Photo Manuel Darío Fuentes Hernández , Pixabay
10.11.2024

New filtration material could remove long-lasting chemicals from water

Membranes based on natural silk and cellulose can remove many contaminants, including “forever chemicals” and heavy metals.

Water contamination by the chemicals used in today’s technology is a rapidly growing problem globally. A recent study by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control found that 98 percent of people tested had detectable levels of PFAS, a family of particularly long-lasting compounds also known as “forever chemicals,” in their bloodstream.

A new filtration material developed by researchers at MIT might provide a nature-based solution to this stubborn contamination issue. The material, based on natural silk and cellulose, can remove a wide variety of these persistent chemicals as well as heavy metals. And, its antimicrobial properties can help keep the filters from fouling.

Membranes based on natural silk and cellulose can remove many contaminants, including “forever chemicals” and heavy metals.

Water contamination by the chemicals used in today’s technology is a rapidly growing problem globally. A recent study by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control found that 98 percent of people tested had detectable levels of PFAS, a family of particularly long-lasting compounds also known as “forever chemicals,” in their bloodstream.

A new filtration material developed by researchers at MIT might provide a nature-based solution to this stubborn contamination issue. The material, based on natural silk and cellulose, can remove a wide variety of these persistent chemicals as well as heavy metals. And, its antimicrobial properties can help keep the filters from fouling.

The findings are described in the journal ACS Nano, in a paper by MIT postdoc Yilin Zhang, professor of civil and environmental engineering Benedetto Marelli, and four others from MIT.

PFAS chemicals are present in a wide range of products, including cosmetics, food packaging, water-resistant clothing, firefighting foams, and antistick coating for cookware. A recent study identified 57,000 sites contaminated by these chemicals in the U.S. alone. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has estimated that PFAS remediation will cost $1.5 billion per year, in order to meet new regulations that call for limiting the compound to less than 7 parts per trillion in drinking water.

Contamination by PFAS and similar compounds “is actually a very big deal, and current solutions may only partially resolve this problem very efficiently or economically,” Zhang says. “That’s why we came up with this protein and cellulose-based, fully natural solution,” he says.

“We came to the project by chance,” Marelli notes. The initial technology that made the filtration material possible was developed by his group for a completely unrelated purpose — as a way to make a labelling system to counter the spread of counterfeit seeds, which are often of inferior quality. His team devised a way of processing silk proteins into uniform nanoscale crystals, or “nanofibrils,” through an environmentally benign, water-based drop-casting method at room temperature.

Zhang suggested that their new nanofibrillar material might be effective at filtering contaminants, but initial attempts with the silk nanofibrils alone didn’t work. The team decided to try adding another material: cellulose, which is abundantly available and can be obtained from agricultural wood pulp waste. The researchers used a self-assembly method in which the silk fibroin protein is suspended in water and then templated into nanofibrils by inserting “seeds” of cellulose nanocrystals. This causes the previously disordered silk molecules to line up together along the seeds, forming the basis of a hybrid material with distinct new properties.

By integrating cellulose into the silk-based fibrils that could be formed into a thin membrane, and then tuning the electrical charge of the cellulose, the researchers produced a material that was highly effective at removing contaminants in lab tests.

The electrical charge of the cellulose, they found, also gave it strong antimicrobial properties. This is a significant advantage, since one of the primary causes of failure in filtration membranes is fouling by bacteria and fungi. The antimicrobial properties of this material should greatly reduce that fouling issue, the researchers say.

“These materials can really compete with the current standard materials in water filtration when it comes to extracting metal ions and these emerging contaminants, and they can also outperform some of them currently,” Marelli says. In lab tests, the materials were able to extract orders of magnitude more of the contaminants from water than the currently used standard materials, activated carbon or granular activated carbon.

While the new work serves as a proof of principle, Marelli says, the team plans to continue working on improving the material, especially in terms of durability and availability of source materials. While the silk proteins used can be available as a byproduct of the silk textile industry, if this material were to be scaled up to address the global needs for water filtration, the supply might be insufficient. Also, alternative protein materials may turn out to perform the same function at lower cost.

Initially, the material would likely be used as a point-of-use filter, something that could be attached to a kitchen faucet, Zhang says. Eventually, it could be scaled up to provide filtration for municipal water supplies, but only after testing demonstrates that this would not pose any risk of introducing any contamination into the water supply. But one big advantage of the material, he says, is that both the silk and the cellulose constituents are considered food-grade substances, so any contamination is unlikely.

“Most of the normal materials available today are focusing on one class of contaminants or solving single problems,” Zhang says. “I think we are among the first to address all of these simultaneously.”

“What I love about this approach is that it is using only naturally grown materials like silk and cellulose to fight pollution,” says Hannes Schniepp, professor of applied science at the College of William and Mary, who was not associated with this work. “In competing approaches, synthetic materials are used — which usually require only more chemistry to fight some of the adverse outcomes that chemistry has produced. [This work] breaks this cycle! ... If this can be mass-produced in an economically viable way, this could really have a major impact.”

The research team included MIT postdocs Hui Sun and Meng Li, graduate student Maxwell Kalinowski, and recent graduate Yunteng Cao PhD ’22, now a postdoc at Yale University. The work was supported by the U.S. Office of Naval Research, the U.S. National Science Foundation, and the Singapore-MIT Alliance for Research and Technology.

TARPAUFIFE / Aimplas
29.10.2024

TARPAULIFE: Polyolefin-coated fabrics as an alternative to PVC

Making bags for transporting fresh water by sea: Tarpaulins are large sheets of strong, flexible, water-resistant material used for protection from extreme conditions. The most common material used to make them is PVC-coated polyester, which is characterized by its low price and good resistance. However, recycling these products represents a major challenge because there are no large-scale commercial solutions for tarpaulin recycling. Companies have been trying for decades to replace PVC-coated fabrics with a polymer that is more recyclable. Although some alternatives are available, they are generally too costly to compete with PVC-coated fabrics and do not fully address stringent safety and recyclability requirements.
 

Making bags for transporting fresh water by sea: Tarpaulins are large sheets of strong, flexible, water-resistant material used for protection from extreme conditions. The most common material used to make them is PVC-coated polyester, which is characterized by its low price and good resistance. However, recycling these products represents a major challenge because there are no large-scale commercial solutions for tarpaulin recycling. Companies have been trying for decades to replace PVC-coated fabrics with a polymer that is more recyclable. Although some alternatives are available, they are generally too costly to compete with PVC-coated fabrics and do not fully address stringent safety and recyclability requirements.
 
The European TARPAULIFE Project aims to demonstrate the possibility of manufacturing large-area polyolefin coated fabrics such as polyethylene and polypropylene that can compete in terms of cost with PVC-coated fabrics while maintaining their properties of strength, flexibility, impermeability and lower environmental impact. This new material will be used to manufacture bags for transporting fresh water by sea, although this innovative, more sustainable and recyclable fabric can also be applied to other products, such as tarpaulins commonly used in lorries and coverings.

Rina Consulting is coordinating this project co-financed by the European LIFE Programme with the participation of the companies Ziplast, Nowa and Giovanardi, and AIMPLAS.

The main result of the project will be a production facility of three-metre-wide polyolefin-coated fabrics with a production capacity of 250,000 m2/year one year after termination of the project, which started in May 2024 and will last for two years. The main application selected is water bags, which represent an innovative way of transporting large amounts of fresh water by sea, as opposed to the usual forms of transport in tankers.

Solving water supply problems in a sustainable way
This technology was developed mainly to transport water from high-production areas that are relatively close to areas with supply problems due to episodes of drought, seasonal increases in demand due to tourism and even to respond to emergency situations. This initiative has already resulted in the REFRESH and XXL-REFRESH Projects financed by the European Commission, in which AIMPLAS, RINA and Ziplast participated, and which successfully tested a floating water bag with a modular design and a zip connection. The aim of the TARPAULIFE Project is to go one step further with the coating material of these polyester bags and replace PVC with polyolefins so they are more sustainable and easier to recycle.
 
As demonstrators of the project, two 2,500 m³ water bags will therefore be made with the new material for testing in two locations in Europe. Demonstration of the water bag will provide a backup freshwater reservoir in the North Sea off the coast of Iceland and in the Mediterranean.

Thanks to this new production plant for polyolefin-coated fabrics, which will be located at the Ziplast facility in Milan, it is anticipated that more than 100 water bags will be produced three years after project end and more than two million cubic metres of water will be stored at three fresh water storage sites. The proposed solution will help avoid incineration of more than 2,000 tonnes of PVC and prevent more than 13 tonnes of CO2 from being released into the environment.
 
General goals

  • PRODUCTION
    the set-up of a production facility of a monomaterial POLYOLEFIN-based coated structural fabrics, width 3 metres, with a production capacity of 250.000 square meters per year already 1 year after the project end.
  • PROTOTYPING
    the prototyping of two 2.5 million litres waterbags made with the new POLYOLEFIN-based coated fabrics and the quantification of the environmental and LCA-LCC benefits compared to the use of PVC-coated fabrics.
  • DEMONSTRATION
    the demonstration of the waterbag to be used as backup freshwater reservoir in two locations in Europe, offshore Iceland and in the Mediterranean.
  • EXPLOITATION and REPLICATION
    Exploitation and replication of project results in other sectors, namely for the production of eco-friendly truck tarps and glacier ice covers, and demonstration of sustainability with the quantification of the environmental and LCA-LCC benefits compared to the use of PVC-coated fabrics for all the intended applications.
  • DISSEMINATION & COMMUNICATION
    An effective dissemination and communication of the project results, targeting stakeholders worldwide.    

Specific goals

  • Processing plant with a new coating machine capable of coating up to a fabric width of 3,000 mm.
  • Procurement of equipment: a weaving machine for production of high-strength textiles with a width of 3,000 mm from polyolefin fibres.
  • Integration of components and testing: checking and monitoring that the different system components are fully integrated and meet expectations in terms of performance is fundamental.
  • Production runs, fixing errors and validation.
  • Prototype design.
  • Procurement of raw materials and ancillary components.
  • Production of zip and tarpaulin patterns.
  • Waterbag demo under dry conditions.
  • Waterbag demo at sea (Northern Europe).
  • Waterbag demo in the Mediterranean.
  • Economic and environmental sustainability.
  • Management of project innovation by using a careful exploitation and IPR management strategy, and ensuring the economic viability of all key project results.
  • Studying replication of the developed solutions for different markets and applications. Initial exploitation of the TARPAULIFE results will be in Europe.
  • Preparation of communication material.
  • Dissemination across different channels.
  • Compliance with EU indications in terms of alternative products to PVC and additive-free products.

The project also includes replication of the results in other sectors, namely, the production of eco-friendly truck tarps and glacier tarpaulins, and a demonstration of the sustainability of the new polyolefin fabric coating solution by quantifying the environmental and LCA-LCC benefits compared to the use of PVC-coated fabrics for all intended applications.

The TARPAULIFE Project is co-financed by the European Union through the LIFE Programme with file number 101147948 – LIFE23-ENV-IT-TARPAULIFE.   

Source:

TARPAUFIFE / Aimplas

Image AI generated, Pixabay
22.10.2024

NABU Study: Textile recycling has huge potential

In Germany, only 26 per cent of used textiles are recycled, mostly into cleaning rags and insulation material. The vast majority is exported to other countries or incinerated. High-quality recycling of used fibres into new textile fibres is still in its infancy. This also applies to Germany. So far, the majority of recycled used textiles have been made into cleaning cloths, fleece fabrics and insulation materials. Recycled textile fibres that replace fibres made from cotton or petroleum in new textiles are rare.
 

In Germany, only 26 per cent of used textiles are recycled, mostly into cleaning rags and insulation material. The vast majority is exported to other countries or incinerated. High-quality recycling of used fibres into new textile fibres is still in its infancy. This also applies to Germany. So far, the majority of recycled used textiles have been made into cleaning cloths, fleece fabrics and insulation materials. Recycled textile fibres that replace fibres made from cotton or petroleum in new textiles are rare.
 
A variety of approaches are needed to reduce the significant environmental impacts of textile production. The priorities are to extend the useful life of textiles and to change the way we consume them. However, the recycling of used textiles that can no longer be reused must also be expanded in terms of both quantity and quality. The Oeko-Institut has therefore been commissioned by NABU to analyse the obstacles to and potential for textile recycling in Germany and In addition to clothing, textiles include home textiles such as bed linen and curtains, as well as technical textiles used, for example, in car manufacturing or in medicine.

High-quality textile recycling alone is not financially viable; rather, a legal framework is needed to promote it in the future. ‘We don't need more cleaning rags,’ says Anna Hanisch, NABU expert on circular economy, ‘Our study shows that there is great potential for higher-quality recycling so that old textiles can be turned into new textiles again. To achieve this, fibre-to-fibre recycling must be expanded. The prerequisite for this is automatic sorting by fibre composition. This is because non-reusable used textiles must be sorted before recycling. This is currently done by hand. A technical solution is what makes recycling economically viable in the first place.’
 
The mechanical recycling that has been used most of the time so far shortens the fibres, so that only a few recycled fibres are suitable for use in new textiles. For this reason, depolymerisation processes are being developed. These require more energy and chemicals, but enable higher-quality recycled fibres for new textiles. According to NABU, extended producer responsibility is necessary to finance and establish these processes. This would have to supplement the EU's mandatory separate collection of used textiles, which will come into force in 2025.

In order to reduce the environmental impact associated with textile production, various approaches are needed: the priority should be to use textiles for longer. However, recycling used textiles that can no longer be used is also part of the solution and must be expanded in terms of both quantity and quality.

Technologically, all approaches have their merits for certain mass flows in order to increase the recycling and use of recycled materials from used textiles in new products. The technologies complement each other. After sorting for reuse, recycling processes should be prioritised as follows:

  1. First mechanical recycling, as it requires the least energy.
  2. Then comes solvent-based processing and depolymerisation, which require a similar amount of effort.
  3. Finally, there is feedstock recycling, which consumes the most resources.

Hanisch: ‘A circular economy starts with the design. For example, in order for textiles to be recycled, they should contain as few different materials as possible. To achieve this, we need ambitious ecodesign requirements for textiles. The focus here must be on durability and recyclability. Above all, however, incentives are needed to reuse recycled raw materials from old textiles. So far, this has hardly happened voluntarily.’   

Water hyacinth Photo: Pixabay, Hồng Vũ
15.10.2024

DITF: Water hyacinth plant pots

Together with Fiber Engineering GmbH, the DITF presents a process for the production of biodegradable plant pots. The products are cost effective and competitive. At the same time, the production process combats the spread of the invasive water hyacinth, whose biomass serves as the raw material for the plant pots.

Combating an invasive species and reaping economic benefits at the same time? What sounds like a contradiction in terms has been successfully achieved by DITF scientists in a joint project with several companies.

Together with Fiber Engineering GmbH, the DITF presents a process for the production of biodegradable plant pots. The products are cost effective and competitive. At the same time, the production process combats the spread of the invasive water hyacinth, whose biomass serves as the raw material for the plant pots.

Combating an invasive species and reaping economic benefits at the same time? What sounds like a contradiction in terms has been successfully achieved by DITF scientists in a joint project with several companies.

Water hyacinth is a rapidly spreading plant that has been recognized as a threat to existing ecosystems in many countries around the world. In particular, Lake Victoria in Africa is suffering from the widespread spread of water hyacinth. Fish deaths due to oxygen depletion, the production of climate-damaging methane gas during decomposition, and the obstruction of shipping and energy production are among the most prominent problems. They offer a grim preview of what is on the horizon in many other countries. As an invasive species, water hyacinth is spreading into many ecosystems around the world as a result of human activities, threatening the quality of human life.

Several approaches have been taken to control the spread of water hyacinth. The main focus is on removing the carpet of plants from the water and then recycling the resulting biomass. This is also the starting point for the research project co-led by the DITF, which aims to produce a new, cost-effective composite material from the fibrous plant material. The result is a prototype plant pot that is competitive and meets all the technical requirements of the project objectives.

At the beginning of the project, the project partners defined the material requirements for the plant pot. These include good dimensional stability, which must also be ensured when the pot is filled with wet soil. The use of physiologically harmless materials for contact with food plants is also an important requirement, as is a cost-effective and therefore competitive production method. However, the main focus is on complete biodegradability and thus the unrestricted compostability of the plant pot.

The biomaterial for the production of the plant pots comes from Louisiana and is directly marketed by In-Between International under the product name CYNTHIA®. This raw material has been extensively tested and modified at the DITF with regard to its composition and suitability for technical processing. It consists mainly of cellulose and must first be screened and treated with a hydrophobic agent for further processing. Hydrophobing is necessary to give the plant pots a certain resistance to moisture.

The prepared raw material now needs to be combined with a binder. The binder binds the plant fibers and ensures the dimensional stability of the plant pot. Laboratory tests with various binders have identified those that guarantee good processability and dimensional stability of the fiber composite. A thermoplastic was selected that was easy to process in a hot press and that fully met the requirements for biodegradability.

Further laboratory tests determined the ideal ratio of binder to fiber raw material. Tests in an industrial composting plant showed that the material was fully biodegradable and that the plant pots would decompose within a reasonable period of time - a stability of 4-6 weeks was the project goal.

The researchers produced test samples for all these preliminary tests in the form of fiber composite panels on a hot press. The next step was to produce the first prototypes of plant pots from the pre-treated fiber material with the appropriate binder. This part was carried out by the project partner, Fiber Engineering GmbH from Karlsruhe. This company has extensive expertise in the field of fiber injection molding (FIM), which makes it possible to produce 3-dimensional molded parts from fibers in simple and fast process steps. Fiber Engineering GmbH has optimized its existing process for processing the water hyacinth fiber material. It produced a series of plant pots and thus realized the last step of the project objective.

A cost calculation, taking into account all the materials and processes used, confirmed that the plant pots could be produced extremely cheaply at a production price of less than five cents per pot, making them marketable. In daily use, garden centers will appreciate the haptic advantages - strength and moisture resistance despite the fact that the material is completely biodegradable. The fact that the material used is helping to solve a global environmental problem should be another plus when it comes to marketing the product.

The Materials Market Report 2024 (c) Textile Exchange
30.09.2024

Materials Market Report 2024: Fossil-based synthetics dominate

Textile Exchange launched the first Materials Market Report in 2013 as a comprehensive, annual publication that provides unique data and insights into global fiber and raw materials production.

The Materials Market Report shares best available data on global fibre and material production volumes alongside program-specific volumes and other insights such as the number of certified sites. For the purpose of this report, leather, rubber, and down are considered non-fibre raw materials and are therefore included separately from the section and charts on ‘global fibre’.

Textile Exchange launched the first Materials Market Report in 2013 as a comprehensive, annual publication that provides unique data and insights into global fiber and raw materials production.

The Materials Market Report shares best available data on global fibre and material production volumes alongside program-specific volumes and other insights such as the number of certified sites. For the purpose of this report, leather, rubber, and down are considered non-fibre raw materials and are therefore included separately from the section and charts on ‘global fibre’.

It helps inform the textile industry’s efforts to reduce emissions associated with raw material production in line with a 1.5-degree temperature rise pathway. The report highlights the urgency to accelerate the transition to fibres from preferred sources, intensify efforts to significantly reduce reliance on virgin fossil-based materials, and invest in strategies that separate value creation from the need for extracting new materials.

It’s important to note that the compilation of global market data for fibres and raw materials is challenging and the quality of available data is often limited. The collection of primary data from suppliers is beyond the scope of this report so Textile Exchange relies on secondary data from industry associations, international organizations, governmental organizations, standard setters, and research institutes.

While Textile Exchange has collected, analysed, and compiled this information in all good conscience and has cross-checked it wherever possible, the report is intended for general guidance and information purposes only. Data gaps and inconsistencies are common in global market data, so modelling has often had to be applied.

Global fibre production reached an all-time high of 124 million tonnes in 2023, according to the latest Materials Market Report– which looks at total volumes used for apparel, home textiles, footwear, or any other application.

The data shows that the market share of virgin fossil-based synthetics continued to increase in 2023, with a decline in that of cotton and recycled fibres. Other key takeaways from the report’s data include:

  • Record fibre production: Despite industry efforts, global fibre production has more than doubled since 2000. The last year’s 124 million tonnes represents a 7% increase from 116 million tonnes in 2022, and is expected to rise to 160 million tonnes in 2030 if current trends continue.
  • Synthetics continue to dominate: The production of virgin fossil-based synthetic fibres increased from 67 million tonnes in 2022 to 75 million tonnes in 2023. Polyester remained the most produced fibre globally, accounting for 57% of total fibre production.
  • Recycled synthetics face challenges: Although recycled polyester fibre production slightly increased in 2023, the overall market share of recycled polyester decreased from 13.6% to 12.5%. For polyamide (nylon), the second most used synthetic fibre, recycled fibres constituted only 2% of the total market share. These trends are attributed to the lower prices and continued production of virgin synthetics, as well as current limitations in recycling technologies. Less than 1% of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.

    The combined share of all recycled fibres slightly decreased in 2023, from around 7.9% to 7.7%, mainly due to an increase in the production of fossil-based polyester, which had lower prices than recycled polyester. Fossil based synthetics production increased from 67 million tonnes in 2022 to 75 million tonnes in 2023. Meanwhile, less than 1% of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.
  • Cotton production saw a slight decline: Total global cotton volumes fell slightly from 25.1 million tonnes in 2022 to 24.4 million tonnes in 2023. However, the share of cotton produced under sustainability programs remained stable, accounting for 29% of all cotton produced.
  • Certified wool climbs: Data showed positive trends for wool produced under standards such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ, SustainaWOOL (GREEN and GOLD), Sustainable Cape Wool Standard (SCWS) and Climate Beneficial programs. This increased from 4.2% in 2022 to 4.8% in 2023. Recycled wool continued to account for around 6% of the global wool market.
  • Certified mohair and cashmere reached almost half of market share: Certified fibres such as mohair and cashmere saw notable growth, both with market shares of 47%.
  • Manmade cellulosic fibres production increased: Overall MMCF production increased from 7.4 million tonnes in 2022 to 7.9 million tonnes in 2023, representing 6% of the global fibre market.

The report highlights a continued reliance on new virgin fossil-based synthetic materials, threatening to undermine the industry’s commitments to its climate goals. It also shows the current limitations of textile-to-textile recycling and an urgent need for innovative solutions, with most recycled polyester still coming from PET bottles.

Amid these concerns, one positive trend that stands out is the increased industry demand for responsible animal fibres through programs like the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) and Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS), both contributing to better animal welfare and environmental management. This indicates the potential of farm-level standards of this kind to increase market recognition of more sustainable practices on the ground.

“We hope this data serves as a clear call to action for the industry, highlighting both the successes and the critical areas where we must intensify our focus to meet climate targets,” said Claire Bergkamp, CEO of Textile Exchange.

“Unlocking textile-to-textile recycling pathways will be essential to reducing reliance on virgin synthetics. Equally important is continuing to support those on the ground who are driving the transition from conventional systems to preferred materials. It is more urgent than ever to support those who have already invested in preferred systems, while also enabling the transition away from conventional at scale.”

Download of the Materials Market Report 2024.

More information:
fibre production Market report
Source:

Textile Exchange

wind energy Photo: Carlos / Saigon - Vietnam, Pixabay
13.09.2024

Negative mood in the composites market

  • Critical assessment of the current business situation
  • Future expectations deteriorate
  • Investment climate remains subdued
  • Expectations for application industries vary
  • Growth drivers with little movement
  • Composites index points downwards

For the 23rd time, Composites Germany (www.composites-germany.de) has collected current key figures on the market for fiber-reinforced plastics. All member companies of the supporting associations of Composites Germany: AVK and Composites United as well as the associated partner VDMA were surveyed.

In order to ensure that the different surveys can be compared without any problems, no fundamental changes were made to the survey this half-year. Once again, mainly qualitative data was collected in relation to current and future market developments.

  • Critical assessment of the current business situation
  • Future expectations deteriorate
  • Investment climate remains subdued
  • Expectations for application industries vary
  • Growth drivers with little movement
  • Composites index points downwards

For the 23rd time, Composites Germany (www.composites-germany.de) has collected current key figures on the market for fiber-reinforced plastics. All member companies of the supporting associations of Composites Germany: AVK and Composites United as well as the associated partner VDMA were surveyed.

In order to ensure that the different surveys can be compared without any problems, no fundamental changes were made to the survey this half-year. Once again, mainly qualitative data was collected in relation to current and future market developments.

Critical assessment of the current business situation
After the assessment of the current business situation was positive at a relatively stable level before the coronavirus crisis, the perception of the survey participants has now deteriorated significantly.       
 
With the exception of a few positive trends, the corresponding indicator has been pointing significantly downwards since 2022. There is still no sign of a trend reversal in the current survey. (see Fig. 1). The assessment of the general business situation is declining in all regions mentioned.

The reasons for the negative sentiment are manifold and were already evident in the previous surveys. High energy, raw material and logistics costs remain a major burden, especially for German industry, but also for many other countries in Europe. This is compounded by a weakening global economy and weak sales for many products in Asia. Massive competition to European products is growing there, particularly in terms of raw materials, which is also partly due to overcapacity, which in turn is putting enormous pressure on prices for suppliers here. Political uncertainties, protectionist tendencies and armed conflicts, such as in Ukraine and recently increasingly in the Middle East, are further worsening the economic climate.

At present, politicians do not seem to be succeeding in creating an environment conducive to business. The composites market has already seen sharp declines in the last two years. The industry continues to send pessimistic signals for the current year. The industry was and is an important economic sector for Germany in particular. It is threatened with further decline if the appropriate regulatory framework is not created to enable competitive production. Germany is currently facing structural changes that are necessary, particularly in terms of economic policy and ecology. These necessary adjustments will take many years and require high levels of investment. It is urgently advisable to finally find a balance between the necessary burden on industry/companies on the one hand and corresponding relief on the other. If the decline of German and European industry continues, at some point it will become questionable who should finance the restructuring. Only a healthy economy, which includes a manufacturing industry, will be able to invest and finance the necessary measures.

This will not be possible for the state itself. Even an expansion of employment in the public sector, as has been pushed in recent months to compensate for job losses in industry, only superficially solves this problem. Healthy state financing is based on a healthy economy. Something urgently needs to be done about this - at the moment, we are digging at our own foundations.
It is not only the assessment of the general business situation that remains pessimistic. The situation of their own companies also continues to be viewed critically. The picture is particularly negative for Germany. Almost 70% of respondents are critical of the current business situation in Germany. The view of global business and Europe is somewhat more positive.
Here, “only” 46% and 54% of respondents respectively assess the situation rather negatively.

Future expectations are becoming gloomier
While the last survey showed rather positive assessments of future expectations, this picture is currently becoming much gloomier. When asked about their assessment of future business development in general, the figures are consistently negative. At present, the respondents do not seem to believe that the situation will improve.  

Respondents were also rather pessimistic about their own company's future expectations, although their expectations regarding their own market position worldwide were positive (see Fig. 3).
It is striking that the view of the German region in relation to Europe and the global economy has been more critical since 2022. 25% of respondents expect the general market situation in Germany to develop negatively.

Only 18% expect the current situation to improve. The figures for Europe and the rest of the world are significantly better.
Only 3% expect the global situation to deteriorate further. 19% expect the situation to improve.

Investment climate remains subdued
The current cautious assessment of the economic situation continues to have an impact on the investment climate.

While 22% of participants in the last survey still expected an increase in personnel capacity (survey 1/2023 = 40%), this figure currently stands at just 13%. In contrast, 33% even expect a decrease in the area of personnel.

The proportion of respondents planning to invest in machinery is also declining. While 56% were still assuming corresponding investments in the last survey, this figure has now fallen to 44%.

Different expectations of application industries
The composites market is characterized by a high degree of heterogeneity in terms of both materials and applications. In the survey, participants were asked to give their assessment of the market development of different core areas.

The expectations are extremely varied. The two most important application areas are the mobility and construction/infrastructure sectors. Both are currently undergoing major upheavals or are affected by declines, which is also clearly reflected in the survey. Growth is expected above all in the wind energy and aviation sectors.

There are generally few shifts here compared to the last survey.

Growth drivers with little movement
In terms of materials, the trend in the assessment of growth drivers is continuing. Whereas for a long time GRP was named as the material from which the main growth impetus for the composites sector is to be expected, the main impetus is now once again expected to come from CFRP or across all materials. The trend from the last survey is continuing here.

There is a slight regional shift. The main impetus for growth is expected to come from Asia and North America. However, the EU (except Germany) is also mentioned. Germany is seen less strongly as a growth driver and continues to lose ground.

Composites Index points downwards
The numerous negative influences of recent times continue to be reflected in the overall Composites Index. This is falling in all areas.
 
In the last two years, the European composites market has lost around 15% of its production volume. Even if not all areas are affected by declines to the same extent, this should be an alarm signal. Until the coronavirus pandemic, there was a continuous increase in production volume for many years. Since the end of the coronavirus crisis and with the increase in macroeconomic uncertainties, Europe and Germany in particular appear to be becoming less attractive as a business location. With production volumes increasing worldwide, Europe's market share is now steadily declining. There are many reasons for this and there are no simple solutions. However, if the industrial location is to remain secure, something has to change quickly. Once companies have moved away, it is difficult to bring them back.

It remains to be seen whether it will be possible to counteract this negative trend. Targeted intervention, including by political decision-makers, would be desirable here. However, this cannot succeed without industry/business. Only together will it be possible to maintain and strengthen Germany as a business/industry location. For composites as a material group in general, there are still very good opportunities to expand the market position in both new and existing markets due to the special portfolio of properties. However, the dependency on overall economic developments remains.

It is now important to develop new market areas through innovation, to consistently exploit opportunities and to work together to further implement composites in existing markets. This can often be achieved better together than alone. With its excellent network, Composi-tes Germany offers a wide range of opportunities.  

The next composites market survey will be published in February 2025.

Source:

Composites Germany

TheDigitalArtist, Pixabay
09.09.2024

“Used textiles recycling at risk of collapse”

The recycling of used textiles is facing a potential collapse. Industry experts agree that the current crisis is more serious than the COVID-19 crisis at the time.

In the case of Covid-19, there was a foreseeable period of a few months, after which the industry recovered quite quickly and the effect of pent-up demand caused prices to return to a normal level within a short period of time.
 
“We now have a completely different situation that threatens the existence of many of the established used textile recyclers in the industry,” says Stefan Voigt, Chairman of the bvse's Textile Recycling Association (FTR).
 
The global market for used textiles has been in a deep crisis for some time, which has now reached a level that can only be described as a free fall. Since the spring, the prices for original collected goods no longer cover the enormous costs for container provision, collection and administration.

The recycling of used textiles is facing a potential collapse. Industry experts agree that the current crisis is more serious than the COVID-19 crisis at the time.

In the case of Covid-19, there was a foreseeable period of a few months, after which the industry recovered quite quickly and the effect of pent-up demand caused prices to return to a normal level within a short period of time.
 
“We now have a completely different situation that threatens the existence of many of the established used textile recyclers in the industry,” says Stefan Voigt, Chairman of the bvse's Textile Recycling Association (FTR).
 
The global market for used textiles has been in a deep crisis for some time, which has now reached a level that can only be described as a free fall. Since the spring, the prices for original collected goods no longer cover the enormous costs for container provision, collection and administration.

The price of original goods traded on the market has now reached an all-time low, causing existential hardship for many market participants.

The sale of original and sorted goods has become almost impossible. The loss of established market players has destroyed supply chains that have been tried and tested for years, and stocks of original and sorted goods have reached unprecedented record levels. Some market participants are forced to replace the usual sales business with bartering.

According to industry information, downstream players in the recycling chain, such as shredding and spinning mills, are also under pressure and have made massive staff cuts. The production of cleaning cloths has also reached an all-time low. Due to the relocation of production abroad and reduced domestic production, demand for cleaning cloths has fallen and prices have slipped to a very low level.

Consumer behavior and international markets exacerbate the crisis
Due to the generally high cost burden on the population, the consumption of textiles has collapsed. The negative trend of consuming low-quality fast fashion is now being reinforced by ultra-fast fashion of even poorer quality. This has disastrous effects on value creation within the recycling chain for used textiles.

“During the sorting process, increasingly large quantities of relatively new textiles are being found that are already so defective that they are no longer suitable for further use and therefore have to be fed into the recycling process,” explains Voigt. However, there is no money to be made here either, as the same cost structures apply to this part of the original goods as to wearable goods and the recycling process is also very cost-intensive.

Industry calls for the introduction of an EPR system
Until now, the recycling of the proportion of sorted goods has been subsidised by the proceeds from wearable goods, but this system has not worked for some time. The industry is desperately waiting for the introduction of a national EPR system for textiles in order to stabilise costs.

The EU Commission's recently published draft of the revised EU Waste Framework Directive provides for the introduction of a system of extended producer responsibility for textiles. The existing collection and recycling structures in Germany, which enable the separate collection of used textiles close to the public, are to play a central role in this.

The draft of the National Circular Economy Strategy (NKWS) of the Federal Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation, Nuclear Safety and Consumer Protection (BMUV) also emphasises the importance of the national recycling industry for used textiles. Without it, the establishment of a closed-loop system for textiles would not be feasible.

Crisis not limited to Germany
The crisis has also made ripples internationally. Countries such as the Netherlands, traditionally the largest buyer of used textiles from Germany, have already addressed the crisis in the national media. Almost 250 companies there are involved in the collection, sorting and international marketing of used textiles.

Around 60 per cent of the original goods are recycled as sustainable clothing after sorting, meaning that the industry is reliant on stable markets in which recycling proceeds can be generated. But this is precisely the problem. ‘Due to the effects of the Russian war of aggression in Ukraine, the Eastern European market can only be served in fragments,’ explains Voigt.

In addition, despite its potential, the African market is currently facing enormous challenges because there is practically no money left in the system, he adds, explaining the concerns he receives from many interviewees in the industry: ‘The enormous drop in the value of many currencies in various African countries    means that it is becoming increasingly difficult for African customers to buy urgently needed second-hand clothing for hard currency,’ Voigt continues.

For example, the currency in the extremely important African market of Ghana has lost roughly 20 per cent against the euro over the last six months of 2024. In addition, the transfer of foreign currency now takes up to two months, meaning that it now takes up to six months to return the proceeds of realisation.

In addition, the African market is increasingly dominated by Chinese influence. ‘The actually better quality of high-quality used European second-hand clothing can hardly compete with new Asian goods,’ reports Voigt. Ultra fast fashion from China is flooding the market with extremely low prices, making it increasingly difficult to market sorted, second-hand clothing.

In addition to economic problems, there are also logistical challenges. ‘Our customers are reporting increasing difficulties in obtaining the necessary visas for a business visit to Europe within an acceptable waiting period,’ explains Voigt. The waiting time for an appointment at the consulate can currently be up to two months.

Call for short-term measures
In order to prevent the system from collapsing in the short term, Voigt believes that the usual remuneration structures for local authorities and providers of parking spaces for collection containers need to be reconsidered. ‘Recycling revenues have not been realised for some time now, so they can no longer be paid out or must be adjusted to the current situation,’ says Voigt.

The industry expects the current crisis to last even longer. ‘Not everyone will survive,’ predicts Voigt. Many collection areas are already being offered on the open market and various collection capacities are being cancelled without replacement. The future of the used textile recycling industry remains uncertain and there is no end to the crisis in sight.

More information:
textile waste textile recycling
Source:

bvse-Bundesverband Sekundärrohstoffe und Entsorgung e.V.

Oyster mushroom Image: Andre Mouton, Pixabay
02.09.2024

Fungal Mycelium as the Basis for Sustainable Products

Fungi have more to offer than meets the eye. Their thread-like cells, which grow extensively and out of sight underground like a network of roots, offer huge potential for producing sustainable, biodegradable materials. Researchers at the Fraunhofer Institute for Applied Polymer Research IAP in Potsdam Science Park are using this mycelium to develop a wide range of recyclable products, from wallets and insulation to packaging.

Flexible mycelium materials in different thicknesses can be used as upholstery material, insulation board or alternatives to leather.

Fungi have more to offer than meets the eye. Their thread-like cells, which grow extensively and out of sight underground like a network of roots, offer huge potential for producing sustainable, biodegradable materials. Researchers at the Fraunhofer Institute for Applied Polymer Research IAP in Potsdam Science Park are using this mycelium to develop a wide range of recyclable products, from wallets and insulation to packaging.

Flexible mycelium materials in different thicknesses can be used as upholstery material, insulation board or alternatives to leather.

To most of us, fungi look like a curved cap and a stem. However, the largest part of the organism consists of a network of cell filaments called mycelium, which mainly spreads below ground and can reach significant proportions. This finely branched network has been underutilized until now. However, for researchers at the Fraunhofer Institute for Applied Polymer Research IAP in Potsdam, mycelium represents a pioneering raw material with the potential to replace petroleum-based products with natural, organic mycelium composites. Organic residues from regional agricultural and forestry activities are used as the substrate for the fungal cultures. In various projects, the researchers are using mycelium-based materials to produce insulation, packaging, and animal-free alternatives to leather products.

Mycelium-based materials from regional agricultural residues
“Faced with climate change and dwindling fossil raw materials, there is an urgent need for biodegradable materials that can be produced with lower energy consumption,” says Dr. Hannes Hinneburg, a biotechnologist at Fraunhofer IAP. Together with his team, he is using mycelium — for instance, from edible mushrooms or bracket fungi such as the oyster mushroom or tinder fungus — to transform locally available plant residues into sustainable materials. “The mycelium has properties that can be used to produce environmentally friendly, energy-efficient materials, since the growth of the fungi takes place under ambient conditions and CO2 remains stored in the residues. When cellulose and other organic residues decompose, a compact, three-dimensional network forms, enabling a self-sustaining structure to develop,” explains Hinneburg. This produces a material that is a complex compound with an organic substrate such as cereal residues, wood chips, hemp, reeds, rape or other agricultural residues. These substances are a source of nutrients for the fungus and are permeated entirely by a fine network of mycelia during the metabolic process. This produces a fully organic composite that can be made into the required shape and stabilized through thermal treatment. “First, you mix water together with agricultural residues such as straw, wood chips and sawdust to form a mass. Once the level of humidity and particle size have been determined, and the subsequent heat treatment to kill off competing germs has been completed, the substrate is ready. It provides food for the fungi and is mixed with the mycelium. Following a growth phase of around two to three weeks in the incubator, the mixture will produce, depending on the formulation and process used, a substance similar to leather or a composite that can be processed further,” says Hinneburg, summarizing the production process. No light is required for this process — a bonus as far as energy efficiency is concerned.

Versatile applications: strength and elasticity can be specifically configured
The fungal materials can be cultivated with a wide range of properties. Depending on the application, they can be hard-wearing, stretchable, tear-resistant, impermeable, elastic, soft and fluffy, or open-pored. The result is determined by the combination of the type of fungus and agricultural residues, plus variable parameters such as temperature and humidity. The duration of mycelial growth also influences the end product. The versatility of the material means it can take on a huge variety of forms, from thick blocks to wafer-thin layers, and be used in a multitude of scenarios. This makes it possible to use fungi-based materials for textile upholstery, packaging, furniture, bags or insulation boards for interiors. When used as a construction material, the fungus primarily functions as a biological adhesive since a wide range of organic particles are joined together via the mycelium.

“The many positive properties of the material, heat-insulating, electrically insulating, moisture-regulating and fire-resistant, enable an important step toward circular and climate-positive construction,” says Hinneburg, one of whose current projects involves developing a novel polystyrene alternative for thermal insulation. In another project, he is working alongside the Institute for Food and Environmental Research and Agro Saarmund e.G. to produce environmentally friendly, mycelium-based packaging trays from residues and raw materials sourced from local agricultural and forestry activities. In work he has done with designers, he has also developed the base material for animal-free alternatives to leather products such as bags and wallets. As the mycelium-based materials look similar to their leather counterparts, they can be used to complement leather items in certain areas.

Developing industrial processes
In Europe, only a few companies are currently developing mycelium-based materials for commercial use. The challenges in this area include access to biogenic residues, the ability to ensure consistent product quality and the means to scale up activities efficiently.

To address these challenges, the researchers are using a newly developed roll-to-roll method, for which they have already created a prototype. This method offers significant advantages over standard manufacturing processes involving boxes and shelving systems: By using a standardized, continuous production method under controlled process conditions (such as temperature and humidity), the researchers can ensure that the mycelium-based products have consistent material properties. What’s more, resources can be used more efficiently, and production can be scaled to an industrial level. “This is crucial in order to meet growing industry demand for sustainable materials and to become less dependent on petroleum in the long term. Production can also be improved further by using innovative technologies such as artificial intelligence to optimize the combination of residues and types of fungi,” says Hinneburg.

Source:

Fraunhofer Institute for Applied Polymer Research IAP

Cladding parts: Hemp replacing glass fibres (c) Fraunhofer IWU
23.08.2024

Cladding parts: Hemp replacing glass fibres

Sheet moulding compounds (SMCs) are long-fibre-reinforced semi-finished products that can be used to produce complex moulded parts with a high surface quality using the extrusion process. The Fraunhofer IWU Zittau and the Zittau/Görlitz University of Applied Sciences are researching biological alternatives for glass fibres in composite materials. The aim is to develop economical manufacturing processes so that the switch to less environmentally harmful biogenic residues for fibre reinforcement can be achieved soon.

SMC components can be used in a wide range of applications. They are used as interior panelling in trains and railways, exterior panelling for trucks and agricultural machinery or to protect electrical distribution boxes and switchgear.

Sheet moulding compounds (SMCs) are long-fibre-reinforced semi-finished products that can be used to produce complex moulded parts with a high surface quality using the extrusion process. The Fraunhofer IWU Zittau and the Zittau/Görlitz University of Applied Sciences are researching biological alternatives for glass fibres in composite materials. The aim is to develop economical manufacturing processes so that the switch to less environmentally harmful biogenic residues for fibre reinforcement can be achieved soon.

SMC components can be used in a wide range of applications. They are used as interior panelling in trains and railways, exterior panelling for trucks and agricultural machinery or to protect electrical distribution boxes and switchgear.

Dr Rafael Cordeiro is a research associate at the Fraunhofer Plastics Centre Oberlausitz and in the LaNDER³ project at Zittau/Görlitz University of Applied Sciences. He is working in particular on train interior linings in which the glass fibre is replaced by natural fibres in combination with resin. The natural fibre used is hemp - more precisely, the coarser fibres that are a by-product of textile production using hemp. The proportion of natural fibres in the newly developed SMC is around 15 percent by weight; the planned use of bio-based resin as the matrix, i.e. the component in which the fibres are embedded, will increase the ‘natural’ proportion to up to 38 percent in future. Added to this are 55 percent minerals such as calcium carbonate (known as limestone or chalk) or aluminium hydroxide hydrate, which occurs naturally as bauxite. The remaining 7 per cent are predominantly petrochemical additives for which there is currently no bio-based substitute. The following are important facts about natural fibre SMCs.

Challenges for production
One challenge for production is that natural fibres in particular bind moisture and may require prior drying in countries with high humidity, otherwise blistering may occur. The formation of bubbles also depends on the impregnation.

Dr Cordeiro: ‘The natural fibre SMC has been developed in such a way that only very small additional plant investments and minimal process parameter changes are required for the production of larger quantities.’

Energy consumption during production
There are no significant differences between natural fibre and glass fibre SMCs in terms of the processes and the energy required for the production of semi-finished products and components by impact extrusion. Semi-finished products are produced at room temperature, which is why the energy requirement of the system is relatively low. The forming of components takes place in a hot pressing process in hydraulic presses, at temperatures between 110 °C and 150 °C. This temperature window is lower than that of thermoplastic components and does not require any cooling or heating cycles for the moulds, with correspondingly positive effects on energy requirements.

Impact on people and the environment
As with all plastic products, there is also the possibility of microplastic formation through abrasion. However, the natural fibre SMCs developed at the Fraunhofer IWU in Zittau are intended for the applications mentioned above, where there is no intensive abrasion. The substitution of glass fibres with hemp fibres leads to a significant reduction in skin and respiratory tract irritation among employees in the area of material and product manufacturing as well as when handling damaged parts or during disposal. In addition, the production of hemp fibres results in significantly lower CO2 emissions than glass fibres, which considerably reduces the environmental impact.

Durability
The typical service life of natural fibre SMCs is up to 30 years, depending on whether the material is used for indoor or outdoor applications. The weather resistance, for example, can be increased by specifically adjusting the matrix resin.

Biodegradability and recyclability
Similar to conventional SMCs, natural fibre SMCs cannot be recycled either. Although the latter are not biodegradable as a whole, promising attempts are being made to separate the natural fibre from the matrix and the filler so that the natural fibre portion can be composted and the filler reused. After separation, the fibres are so small that they can no longer be used in SMC applications. There is a need for further research into the technological reuse of the short fibres obtained.

Dr Rafael Cordeiro: ‘The sustainability balance of natural fibre SMCs is not yet perfect. But it is already much better than that of glass fibre-reinforced composite materials. The material costs are also right. This means that the alternatives we have developed to classic glass fibre SMCs are definitely marketable. The production of more sustainable SMC components is possible.’

Source:

The information on natural fibre SMCs is based on an interview conducted by Tina-Seline Göttinger with Dr Rafael Cordeiro as part of a bachelor thesis
Fraunhofer IWU

AI AI generated women, Pixabay
09.07.2024

How the Fashion Industry Is Using AI

Nearly every industry is poised to undergo an unprecedented transformation with the introduction of artificial intelligence (AI). AI, in simple terms, refers to technology, often in the form of computer programs, designed to replicate the human brain’s ability to perform tasks and continuously improve.

Generative AI, powered by deep learning algorithms, is making a significant impact on fashion brands. This advanced technology has the capacity to comprehend patterns within data and generate entirely new examples of text, images and even video (Bain, 2023).

Because of its ability to create new content, the fashion industry is integrating its technology into nearly all of its processes in some way, from design and product descriptions to product recommendations and 3D design (Mcdowell, 2023a).

Table 1 provides a few real-world examples of how AI is already being used in the industry.

Nearly every industry is poised to undergo an unprecedented transformation with the introduction of artificial intelligence (AI). AI, in simple terms, refers to technology, often in the form of computer programs, designed to replicate the human brain’s ability to perform tasks and continuously improve.

Generative AI, powered by deep learning algorithms, is making a significant impact on fashion brands. This advanced technology has the capacity to comprehend patterns within data and generate entirely new examples of text, images and even video (Bain, 2023).

Because of its ability to create new content, the fashion industry is integrating its technology into nearly all of its processes in some way, from design and product descriptions to product recommendations and 3D design (Mcdowell, 2023a).

Table 1 provides a few real-world examples of how AI is already being used in the industry.

Category How it works Example
Fashion Design
  • Transforms textual descriptions or uploaded images into illustrations
  • Adjusts these designs before production
  • Cala’s tool with DALL-E technology
  • Tommy Hilfiger’s AI-Assisted Design Collaboration with IBM and the Fashion Institute of Technology
  • Project Muze by Google and Zalando
Visual Content and Marketing Imagery
  • Generates advertising and marketing content using given parameters or inputs
  • Text, images and videos are common outputs
  • Stitch Fix’s AI visuals
  • Casablancas Spring/Summer 2023 campaign
  • Revolve’s AI-driven ad campaign
Copywriting
  • Generates copy based on keywords and instructions provided by the user
  • Streamlines the process of creating product descriptions, marketing emails and other written content
  • Adore Me AI optimization
  • Product descriptions for Search Engine Optimization (SEO)
Shopping Assistants
  • Utilizes natural language processing to interact with customers as chatbots
  • Offers product recommendations and provides information
  • Kering’s experimental KNXT platform
  • Luxury personal shopper powered by ChatGPT

 

AI in design
Generative AI has the power to revolutionize fashion design. Designers can harness AI image generators like DALL-E, Midjourney or Stable Diffusion to bring their creative visions to life.

Cala, a supply chain startup, was the first group to harness AI in the design creation process for fashion brands. In January 2023 it introduced a tool that allows users to describe their design ideas in text or upload images which AI will then transform into illustrations or realistic images. Users can then fine tune these designs before turning them into physical products. This tool marks a pioneering use of the DALL-E API in the fashion industry, enabling the creation of clothing, accessories, shoes and lifestyle products based on descriptions or images (OpenAI, 2022).

Apparel brands are also leveraging this technology. Tommy Hilfiger collaborated with IBM and the Fashion Institute of Technology on a project named Reimagine Retail. This initiative aimed to give retailers a competitive advantage in the speed of forecasting emerging design trends by analyzing a vast array of data from images and fabrics to colors (Saunders, 2019).

While generative AI empowers designers to explore new concepts and ideas rapidly by generating various design variations, there are limitations to the technology. Manual editing and adjustments are often necessary as AI cannot turn all concepts into finished products. Concerns regarding intellectual property may also arise as some AI-generated designs could be based on copyrighted work. Legal issues in this area are still evolving, prompting brands to involve their legal teams and establish guidelines (Bain, 2023).

AI in Copywriting: Efficiency and personalization
Generative AI tools are serving as valuable assistants to marketing teams, streamlining the writing process for product descriptions and marketing emails. Copywriters input keywords and instructions and AI generates copy that can be edited as needed, enabling brands to produce written content more efficiently.

The lingerie brand Adore Me has been using AI tools to optimize product descriptions for Search Engine Optimization (SEO) to make them more likely to appear at the top of search engine results (Mcdowell, 2023a). Adore Me and other brands using AI this way report dozens of hours in time savings.

Using AI’s potential to personalize content at a one-to-one level requires businesses to have structured first-party data and robust data privacy measures (Bain, 2023). For now, human oversight is still required, and web teams will likely need to make adjustments to established workflows in order to incorporate AI.

AI-enhanced visual content for fashion marketing
Generative AI is also being applied to create visual marketing content.
Stitch Fix uses AI to curate personalized clothing recommendations for customers and is exploring how it could use DALL-E 2 to visualize garments tailored to individual preferences for color, fabric and style (Davenport & Mittal, 2022).

French fashion house Casablanca Paris is also implementing AI. It collaborated with the British photographer and AI artist Luke Nugent for its Spring / Summer 2023 campaign. The AI-generated images blended dreamlike backdrops with cutting edge technology.

Fashion brands can benefit from reduced production times, cost savings and increased creative freedom by using AI-driven innovations to develop visual assets for marketing and ad campaigns. However, ensuring that AI-generated images accurately represent products can be tricky as the output may differ from the original product photos (Bain, 2023; Mcdowell, 2023a).

AI Chatbots: Transforming the shopping experience
Many retailers are also using generative AI as online shopping assistants, commonly known as chatbots. These chatbots use natural language processing to understand and respond to customer questions or even make personalized product recommendations (Zeng et al., 2023). For instance, within Kering’s experimental KNXT platform, a luxury personal shopper powered by ChatGPT provides tailored recommendations and insights to users based on specific contexts (Mcdowell, 2023b).

Despite these advantages, chatbot technology still has room for improvement. It may struggle to suggest the right products due to inventory constraints or provide somewhat generic styling suggestions. However these chatbots are a work in progress, and companies are confident that their AI tools’ language capabilities will continue to improve as they gather more data and user feedback.

As the fashion industry evolves, generative AI-driven chatbots have the potential to revolutionize the way customers interact with brands, offering increasingly personalized and efficient services.

A new industry standard
Businesses in the fashion, textile and apparel space can no longer be ambivalent or willfully ignorant about AI. They must do the research and reflection needed to develop a clear organizational stance on AI or risk getting left behind.

Organizational strategies for AI need to go beyond looking at the future trajectory of AI. Executives must set up clear objectives around how to integrate the technology into their workflows.

The customer base of each brand will be central to a successful AI strategy. This means understanding both their attitudes towards AI as well as their preferences and expectations.

Source:

Wilson College of Textiles, Yoo-Won Olivia Min and B. Ellie Jin