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Lincoln Laboratory staff member Steve Gillmer tests the elasticity of a bioabsorbable fabric in order to compare its stiffness to different types of human tissue. Photo: Glen Cooper/Lincoln Laboratory
24.03.2025

Knitted microtissue can accelerate healing

Lincoln Laboratory and MIT researchers are creating new types of bioabsorbable fabrics that mimic the unique way soft tissues stretch while nurturing growing cells.

Treating severe or chronic injury to soft tissues such as skin and muscle is a challenge in health care. Current treatment methods can be costly and ineffective, and the frequency of chronic wounds in general from conditions such as diabetes and vascular disease, as well as an increasingly aging population, is only expected to rise.

Lincoln Laboratory and MIT researchers are creating new types of bioabsorbable fabrics that mimic the unique way soft tissues stretch while nurturing growing cells.

Treating severe or chronic injury to soft tissues such as skin and muscle is a challenge in health care. Current treatment methods can be costly and ineffective, and the frequency of chronic wounds in general from conditions such as diabetes and vascular disease, as well as an increasingly aging population, is only expected to rise.

One promising treatment method involves implanting biocompatible materials seeded with living cells (i.e., microtissue) into the wound. The materials provide a scaffolding for stem cells, or other precursor cells, to grow into the wounded tissue and aid in repair. However, current techniques to construct these scaffolding materials suffer a recurring setback. Human tissue moves and flexes in a unique way that traditional soft materials struggle to replicate, and if the scaffolds stretch, they can also stretch the embedded cells, often causing those cells to die. The dead cells hinder the healing process and can also trigger an inadvertent immune response in the body.

"The human body has this hierarchical structure that actually un-crimps or unfolds, rather than stretches," says Steve Gillmer, a researcher in MIT Lincoln Laboratory's Mechanical Engineering Group. "That's why if you stretch your own skin or muscles, your cells aren't dying. What's actually happening is your tissues are uncrimping a little bit before they stretch."

Gillmer is part of a multidisciplinary research team that is searching for a solution to this stretching setback. He is working with Professor Ming Guo from MIT's Department of Mechanical Engineering and the laboratory's Defense Fabric Discovery Center (DFDC) to knit new kinds of fabrics that can uncrimp and move just as human tissue does.
The idea for the collaboration came while Gillmer and Guo were teaching a course at MIT. Guo had been researching how to grow stem cells on new forms of materials that could mimic the uncrimping of natural tissue. He chose electrospun nanofibers, which worked well, but were difficult to fabricate at long lengths, preventing him from integrating the fibers into larger knit structures for larger-scale tissue repair.

"Steve mentioned that Lincoln Laboratory had access to industrial knitting machines," Guo says. These machines allowed him to switch focus to designing larger knits, rather than individual yarns. "We immediately started to test new ideas through internal support from the laboratory."

Gillmer and Guo worked with the DFDC to discover which knit patterns could move similarly to different types of soft tissue. They started with three basic knit constructions called interlock, rib, and jersey.

"For jersey, think of your T-shirt. When you stretch your shirt, the yarn loops are doing the stretching," says Emily Holtzman, a textile specialist at the DFDC. "The longer the loop length, the more stretch your fabric can accommodate. For ribbed, think of the cuff on your sweater. This fabric construction has a global stretch that allows the fabric to unfold like an accordion."

Interlock is similar to ribbed but is knitted in a denser pattern and contains twice as much yarn per inch of fabric. By having more yarn, there is more surface area on which to embed the cells. "Knit fabrics can also be designed to have specific porosities, or hydraulic permeability, created by the loops of the fabric and yarn sizes," says Erin Doran, another textile specialist on the team. "These pores can help with the healing process as well."

So far, the team has conducted a number of tests embedding mouse embryonic fibroblast cells and mesenchymal stem cells within the different knit patterns and seeing how they behave when the patterns are stretched. Each pattern had variations that affected how much the fabric could uncrimp, in addition to how stiff it became after it started stretching. All showed a high rate of cell survival, and in 2024 the team received an R&D 100 award for their knit designs.

Gillmer explains that although the project began with treating skin and muscle injuries in mind, their fabrics have the potential to mimic many different types of human soft tissue, such as cartilage or fat. The team recently filed a provisional patent that outlines how to create these patterns and identifies the appropriate materials that should be used to make the yarn. This information can be used as a toolbox to tune different knitted structures to match the mechanical properties of the injured tissue to which they are applied.

"This project has definitely been a learning experience for me," Gillmer says. "Each branch of this team has a unique expertise, and I think the project would be impossible without them all working together. Our collaboration as a whole enables us to expand the scope of the work to solve these larger, more complex problems."

Source:

Anne McGovern | Lincoln Laboratory

© Hamilton Osoy, IFM. Researchers braid a computer fiber with a combination of metal and textile yarns. Covering the fiber computer with traditional yarns enables it to be easily integrated into fabrics and textiles.
04.03.2025

MIT Research: Fiber computers for apparel

MIT researchers developed a fiber computer and networked several of them into a garment that learns to identify physical activities.

What if the clothes you wear could care for your health?
MIT researchers have developed an autonomous programmable computer in the form of an elastic fiber, which could monitor health conditions and physical activity, alerting the wearer to potential health risks in real-time. Clothing containing the fiber computer was comfortable and machine washable, and the fibers were nearly imperceptible to the wearer, the researchers report.

MIT researchers developed a fiber computer and networked several of them into a garment that learns to identify physical activities.

What if the clothes you wear could care for your health?
MIT researchers have developed an autonomous programmable computer in the form of an elastic fiber, which could monitor health conditions and physical activity, alerting the wearer to potential health risks in real-time. Clothing containing the fiber computer was comfortable and machine washable, and the fibers were nearly imperceptible to the wearer, the researchers report.

Unlike on-body monitoring systems known as “wearables,” which are located at a single point like the chest, wrist, or finger, fabrics and apparel have an advantage of being in contact with large areas of the body close to vital organs. As such, they present a unique opportunity to measure and understand human physiology and health.
The fiber computer contains a series of microdevices, including sensors, a microcontroller, digital memory, bluetooth modules, optical communications, and a battery, making up all the necessary components of a computer in a single elastic fiber.

The researchers added four fiber computers to a top and a pair of leggings, with the fibers running along each limb. In their experiments, each independently programmable fiber computer operated a machine-learning model that was trained to autonomously recognize exercises performed by the wearer, resulting in an average accuracy of about 70 percent.

Surprisingly, once the researchers allowed the individual fiber computers to communicate among themselves, their collective accuracy increased to nearly 95 percent.
“Our bodies broadcast gigabytes of data through the skin every second in the form of heat, sound, biochemicals, electrical potentials, and light, all of which carry information about our activities, emotions, and health. Unfortunately, most — if not all — of it gets absorbed and then lost in the clothes we wear. Wouldn’t it be great if we could teach clothes to capture, analyze, store, and communicate this important information in the form of valuable health and activity insights?” says Yoel Fink, a professor of materials science and engineering at MIT, a principal investigator in the Research Laboratory of Electronics (RLE) and the Institute for Soldier Nanotechnologies (ISN), and senior author of a paper on the research, which has been published in Nature.

The use of the fiber computer to understand health conditions and help prevent injury will soon undergo a significant real-world test as well. U.S. Army and Navy service members will be conducting a monthlong winter research mission to the Arctic, covering 1,000 kilometers in average temperatures of -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Dozens of base layer merino mesh shirts with fiber computers will be providing real-time information on the health and activity of the individuals participating on this mission, called Musk Ox II.

“In the not-too-distant future, fiber computers will allow us to run apps and get valuable health care and safety services from simple everyday apparel. We are excited to see glimpses of this future in the upcoming Arctic mission through our partners in the U.S. Army, Navy, and DARPA. Helping to keep our service members safe in the harshest environments is a honor and privilege,” Fink says.

He is joined on the paper by co-lead authors Nikhil Gupta, an MIT materials science and engineering graduate student; Henry Cheung MEng ’23; and Syamantak Payra ’22, currently a graduate student at Stanford University; John Joannopoulos, the Francis Wright Professor of Physics at MIT and director of the Institute for Soldier Nanotechnologies; as well as others at MIT, Rhode Island School of Design, and Brown University.

Fiber focus
The fiber computer builds on more than a decade of work in the Fibers@MIT lab at the RLE and was supported primarily by ISN. In previous papers, the researchers demonstrated methods for incorporating semiconductor devices, optical diodes, memory units, elastic electrical contacts, and sensors into fibers that could be formed into fabrics and garments.

“But we hit a wall in terms of the complexity of the devices we could incorporate into the fiber because of how we were making it. We had to rethink the whole process. At the same time, we wanted to make it elastic and flexible so it would match the properties of traditional fabrics,” says Gupta.
 
One of the challenges that researchers surmounted is the geometric mismatch between a cylindrical fiber and a planar chip. Connecting wires to small, conductive areas, known as pads, on the outside of each planar microdevice proved to be difficult and prone to failure because complex microdevices have many pads, making it increasingly difficult to find room to attach each wire reliably.

In this new design, the researchers map the 2D pad alignment of each microdevice to a 3D layout using a flexible circuit board called an interposer, which they wrapped into a cylinder. They call this the “maki” design. Then, they attach four separate wires to the sides of the “maki” roll and connected all the components together.
“This advance was crucial for us in terms of being able to incorporate higher functionality computing elements, like the microcontroller and Bluetooth sensor, into the fiber,” says Gupta.

This versatile folding technique could be used with a variety of microelectronic devices, enabling them to incorporate additional functionality.

In addition, the researchers fabricated the new fiber computer using a type of thermoplastic elastomer that is several times more flexible than the thermoplastics they used previously. This material enabled them to form a machine-washable, elastic fiber that can stretch more than 60 percent without failure.

They fabricate the fiber computer using a thermal draw process that the Fibers@MIT group pioneered in the early 2000s. The process involves creating a macroscopic version of the fiber computer, called a preform, that contains each connected microdevice.

This preform is hung in a furnace, melted, and pulled down to form a fiber, which also contains embedded lithium-ion batteries so it can power itself.
“A former group member, Juliette Marion, figured out how to create elastic conductors, so even when you stretch the fiber, the conductors don’t break. We can maintain functionality while stretching it, which is crucial for processes like knitting, but also for clothes in general,” Gupta says.

Bring out the vote
Once the fiber computer is fabricated, the researchers use a braiding technique to cover the fiber with traditional yarns, such as polyester, merino wool, nylon, and even silk.

In addition to gathering data on the human body using sensors, each fiber computer incorporates LEDs and light sensors that enable multiple fibers in one garment to communicate, creating a textile network that can perform computation.

Each fiber computer also includes a Bluetooth communication system to send data wirelessly to a device like a smartphone, which can be read by a user.

The researchers leveraged these communication systems to create a textile network by sewing four fiber computers into a garment, one in each sleeve. Each fiber ran an independent neural network that was trained to identify exercises like squats, planks, arm circles, and lunges.

“What we found is that the ability of a fiber computer to identify human activity was only about 70 percent accurate when located on a single limb, the arms or legs.
However, when we allowed the fibers sitting on all four limbs to ‘vote,’ they collectively reached nearly 95 percent accuracy, demonstrating the importance of residing on multiple body areas and forming a network between autonomous fiber computers that does not need wires and interconnects,” Fink says.

Moving forward, the researchers want to use the interposer technique to incorporate additional microdevices.

Arctic insights
In February, a multinational team equipped with computing fabrics will travel for 30 days and 1,000 kilometers in the Arctic. The fabrics will help keep the team safe, and set the stage for future physiological “digital twinning” models.

“As a leader with more than a decade of Arctic operational experience, one of my main concerns is how to keep my team safe from debilitating cold weather injuries — a primary threat to operators in the extreme cold,” says U.S. Army Major Mathew Hefner, the commander of Musk Ox II. “Conventional systems just don’t provide me with a complete picture. We will be wearing the base layer computing fabrics on us 24/7 to help us better understand the body’s response to extreme cold and ultimately predict and prevent injury.”
 
Karl Friedl, U.S. Army Research Institute of Environmental Medicine senior research scientist of performance physiology, noted that the MIT programmable computing fabric technology may become a “gamechanger for everyday lives.”

“Imagine near-term fiber computers in fabrics and apparel that sense and respond to the environment and to the physiological status of the individual, increasing comfort and performance, providing real-time health monitoring and providing protection against external threats. Soldiers will be the early adopters and beneficiaries of this new technology, integrated with AI systems using predictive physiological models and mission-relevant tools to enhance survivability in austere environments,” Friedl says.

“The convergence of classical fibers and fabrics with computation and machine learning has only begun. We are exploring this exciting future not only through research and field testing, but importantly in an MIT Department of Materials Science and Engineering course ‘Computing Fabrics,’ taught with Professor Anais Missakian from the Rhode Island School of Design,” adds Fink.

This research was supported, in part, by the U.S. Army Research Office Institute for Soldier Nanotechnology (ISN), the U.S. Defense Threat Reduction Agency, the U.S. National Science Foundation, the Fannie and John Hertz Foundation Fellowship, the Paul and Daisy Soros Foundation Fellowship for New Americans, the Stanford-Knight Hennessy Scholars Program, and the Astronaut Scholarship Foundation.

Source:

Adam Zewe | MIT News

Medical textiles, Pixabay Image: Sasin Tipchai on Pixabay
11.02.2025

Medical textiles with infection protection

In collaboration with Heraeus, the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are developing fibers and textiles with a novel infection protection system. The basis is an antimicrobial mechanism of action licensed from Heraeus and marketed under the name AGXX. The goal of the collaboration is to optimally integrate the AGXX technology into textile finishes and coatings and to incorporate it into fiber-spinnable polymers. This will provide medical textiles with highly effective and long-lasting protection against microbial infections.
 

In collaboration with Heraeus, the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are developing fibers and textiles with a novel infection protection system. The basis is an antimicrobial mechanism of action licensed from Heraeus and marketed under the name AGXX. The goal of the collaboration is to optimally integrate the AGXX technology into textile finishes and coatings and to incorporate it into fiber-spinnable polymers. This will provide medical textiles with highly effective and long-lasting protection against microbial infections.
 
AGXX technology is based on an entirely new mechanism of action. It uses a catalytic redox reaction initiated by metallic AGXX particles consisting of silver and ruthenium. In interaction with humidity, reactive oxygen species such as peroxides are formed. These are oxygen-containing molecules with very high reactivity. They effectively kill microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and algae and are equally effective against viruses.

The special feature of this mechanism of action is that the AGXX particles are not reduced and do not release any active ingredients. In established antimicrobial systems based on the release of silver ions, the release of active ingredients has become a problem: the release of the silver ion concentration is difficult to control and many of the established systems do not meet the requirements of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). Such systems will disappear from the market in the medium term and must be replaced by alternatives.

In addition to permanent efficacy, the AGXX technology offers a particularly broad spectrum of protection against pathogens and prevents the formation of resistance.
      
Heraeus AGXX technology has reached a high level of development and is used in various industries. In general, AGXX particles can be easily incorporated into various materials. However, textiles used in the medical sector are subject to more stringent requirements. The resistance of the antimicrobial protection mechanism must be high, as contaminated textiles can be a source of transmission of pathogens over a long period of time. Modification of the textile material, either by surface treatment (finishing or coating) or by incorporation of AGXX into filament yarns, should not adversely affect the physiology of the garment. This is because a reduction in textile properties is unlikely to be accepted by the wearers of the textiles.

The integration of AGXX particles into textile finishes and fiber spinnable polymers is the focus of the joint research approach of the DITF and Heraeus. The goal is not only to determine the optimal concentration of AGXX particles to provide the best possible protection against infection without compromising the mechanical properties of the textiles. The technical prerequisites for the development of suitable textile finishes and the compounding of polymer melts are also being created.

The resulting textile samples are tested for antimicrobial and antiviral activity in the DITF's own laboratories. Here, finishes and coatings for polyester and polyamide fabrics showed convincing results. The compounding of AGXX in the PA6 polymer melt enabled the production of filament fibers with consistently good fiber strength values.

The determination of textile mechanical parameters such as abrasion resistance, air permeability and dimensional change as a function of number of wash cycles is still in progress. However, it is becoming apparent that textiles modified with AGXX are consistently effective without having an excessive impact on the nature of the textile.

The results of the research are an important contribution to reducing the risk of infection from medical workwear. They form the basis for future industrial production of textiles for durable and reliable protection against infection.

Source:

DITF Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung
Contact: Dipl.-Ing. Cigdem Kaya, Competence Center Textile Chemistry, Environment & Energy, Barrier textiles

Photo by FlyD on Unsplash
04.02.2025

Sustainable Textiles – The Way Forward

High dependence on fossil carbon, associated high carbon footprint, low recycling rates and microplastics: several solutions are emerging.

The evolution of the demand for textile fibres from 1960 to the present day shows how the textile industry found itself in this dilemma. In 1960, around 95% of textile fibres were of natural origin, from bio-based carbon, and there was no problem with microplastics, all fibres were biodegradable.

High dependence on fossil carbon, associated high carbon footprint, low recycling rates and microplastics: several solutions are emerging.

The evolution of the demand for textile fibres from 1960 to the present day shows how the textile industry found itself in this dilemma. In 1960, around 95% of textile fibres were of natural origin, from bio-based carbon, and there was no problem with microplastics, all fibres were biodegradable.

The explosion in demand – 650% between 1960 and 2023 – could only be met by synthetic fibres from the chemical and plastics industries. Their share grew from 3% in 1960 to 68% in 2023 and from less than 700,000 tonnes to 85 million tonnes/year (The Fiber Year 2024). The new fibres covered a wide range of properties, could even achieve previously unknown properties and, above all, thanks to a powerful and innovative chemical and plastics industry, production volumes could be rapidly increased and comparatively low prices realised.
 
At the same time, sustainability has declined, the carbon footprint of the textiles has increased significantly and the issue of microplastics requires solutions.

The first step would be to significantly increase the proportion of renewable fibres, as this is the only way to reduce dependence on fossil carbon, especially in the form of crude oil, and thus reduce the carbon footprint. But how can this be done? As defined by the Renewable Carbon Initiative, renewable carbon comes from biomass, CO2 and recycling: From carbon above ground. This addresses the core problem of climate change, which is extracting and using additional fossil carbon from the ground that will end up in the atmosphere.
 
What can cotton, bast fibres and wool contribute?
Cotton fibre production can hardly be increased, it is stagnating between 20 and max. 25 million tonnes/year. Cultivated areas can hardly be expanded, and existing areas are salinized by the irrigation required. With the exception of about 1% organic cotton, significant amounts of pesticides are used. The market share of “preferred” cotton – defined by a list of recognized programmes – will fall from 27% of total cotton production in 2019/20 to 24% in 2020/21, after years of growth. (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report) Bast fibres such as jute (75%), flax, hemp, ramie or kenaf would require a huge boost in technology development and capacity investment and will nevertheless probably remain more expensive than cotton, simply because bast fibres are much more complicated to process, e.g. separating the fibre from the stalk, which is not necessary for cotton as a fruit fibre. As a source of cellulose fibre, bast fibres will remain more expensive than wood.

Although bast fibres are more sustainable than many other fibres, there is unlikely to be a major change – unless China focuses on bast fibres as a substitute for cotton. Plans to do so have been put on hold due to technological problems.

The importance of man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) or simply cellulose fibres
Cellulose fibre production has been growing steadily over the last decades, reaching an all-time high of nearly 8 million tonnes in 2023, and is expected to grow further to 11 million tonnes in 2030. Cellulosic fibres are the only bio-based and biodegradable fibres that cover a wider range of properties and applications and can rapidly increase their capacity. The raw materials can be virgin wood as well as all types of cellulosic waste streams from forestry, agriculture, cotton processing waste, textile waste and paper waste. Increasing the share of cellulosic fibres will therefore play a crucial role in solving the sustainability challenges of the textile industry.

The production of MMCFs includes viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate and cupro. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC certified MMCF increased from 55–60% in 2020 to 60–65% of all MMCF in 2021. The market share of “recycled MMCFs” increased to an estimated share of 0.5%. Much research and development is underway. As a result, the volumes of recycled MMCFs are expected to increase significantly in the coming years. (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report)

The CEPI study “Forest-Based Biorefineries: Innovative Bio-Based Products for a Clean Transition” (renewable-carbon.eu/publications/product/innovative-bio-based-products-for-a-clean-transition-pdf/) identified 143 biorefineries in Europe, of which 126 are operational and 17 are planned. Most of them are based on chemical pulping (67%) – the precursor of cellulose fibres. Most biorefineries are located in Sweden, Finland, Germany, Portugal and Austria. But there are already biorefineries in operation or planned in 18 different European countries.

The global report “Is there enough biomass to defossilise the Chemicals and Derived Materials Sector by 2050?” (upcoming publication end of February 2025, available here: renewablecarbon.eu/publications) shows particularly high growth in dissolving/chemical pulp (from 9 in 2020 to 44 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 406%), cellulose fibres (from 7 in 2020 to 38 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 447%) and cellulose derivatives (from 2 in 2020 to 6 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 190%).

Biosynthetics – Bio-based and CO2-based Synthetic Fibres
To further reduce the share of fossil-based synthetic fibres, bio-based polymer fibres (also called “biosynthetics”) are an excellent option because of their wide range of properties – only the implementation will take decades as the share today is only below 0.5%. There are many options, such as polyester fibres (PLA, PTT, PEF, PHA), polyolefin fibres (PE/PP), bio-based PA fibres from castor oil. PTT, for example, is well established in the US carpet market and PLA in the hygiene market. They are all bio-based, but only a few are also biodegradable (PLA, PHA).
 
Biosynthetics are one of many applications of bio-based polymers. In general, 17 bio-based polymers are currently commercially available with an installed capacity of over 4 million tonnes in 2023. Ten of these bio-based polymers are used as biosynthetics. resulting in the production of over one million tonnes of biosynthetics (nova report: Bio-based Building Blocks and Polymers – Global Capacities, Production and Trends 2023–2028, renewable-carbon.eu/publications/product/bio-based-buildingblocks-and-polymers-global-capacities-production-and-trends-2023-2028-short-version/).

In principle, many fibres can also be made from CO2, but here the technology and capacity needs to be developed, perhaps in parallel with the production of sustainable aviation fuels from CO2, which will become mandatory.

Circular Economy – Recycling of Textile Waste & Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling
The textile industry is at a pivotal moment, where sustainability is no longer an option but a necessity. As the environmental impact of textile production and disposal becomes increasingly clear, the pressure to adopt circular economy principles is growing.

One promising solution is fibre-to-fibre recycling, a process that converts used textiles into new, highquality fibres, effectively closing the waste loop. While significant progress has been made in the European Union, challenges remain, particularly in scaling up technologies, lack of collection systems and handling of mixed fibre textiles. Europe currently generates approximately 6.95 (1.25 + 5.7) million tonnes of textile waste per year, of which only 1.95 million tonnes is collected separately and 1.02 million tonnes is treated by recycling or backfilling.
 
The recycling of textiles reduces the demand for virgin fibres and the textile footprint. The share of recycled fibres increased slightly from 8.4% in 2020 to 8.9% in 2021, mainly due to an increase in bottlebased PET fibres. However, in 2021, less than 1% of the global fibre market will come from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report). New regulations from Brussels for closed-loop recycling, especially bottle-to-bottle recycling, could threaten the use of bottle-based PET fibres in the textile industry. This would mean a reduction in recycling rates in the textile industry until the logistics and technologies are in place to recycle textiles on a large scale. This will be necessary to contribute to the circular economy. Several research projects are underway to find solutions and first pilot implementations are available.

The Future of Sustainable Textiles
The sustainable textile industry of the future will be built on a foundation of cotton fibres and fast-growing cellulose fibres, later strongly supported by bio- and CO2-based synthetic fibres (“biosynthetics”), and high recycling rates for all types of fibres. This combination can eventually replace most fossil-based synthetic fibres by 2050.

To get the latest information on cellulose fibres, the nova-Institute organises the “Cellulose Fibres Conference” every year, which will take place next time in Cologne on 12 and 13 March 2025 – this year for the first time with biosynthetics.

Source:

Michael Carus and Dr. Asta Partanen, nova-Institute (Germany)

Silk Yarn Photo: LoggaWiggler from Pixabay
14.01.2025

Discarded silk yarn can clean up polluted waterways

Cornell researchers have developed an elegant and sustainable way to clean up waterways: reusing one waste product to remove another.

Cornell researchers have developed an elegant and sustainable way to clean up waterways: reusing one waste product to remove another.

Led by Larissa Shepherd, Ph.D., assistant professor in the Department of Human Centered Design, in the College of Human Ecology, the team has proposed using discarded silk yarn for the removal of dye and oil from water. Studies on several different forms of silk: fabrics, yarns, and fibers revealed that yarn unraveled from silk fabric, soaked up methylene blue (MB), a common textile dye, from water at a substantially higher rate than other forms of silk they tested.
 
What’s more, the silk yarn can be cleaned and reused. Shepherd’s group found that the textile can withstand at least 10 cycles, with minimal loss of functionality.
 
Shepherd is the corresponding author of “Waste Bombyx Mori Silk Textiles as Efficient and Reuseable Bio-Adsorbents for Methylene Blue Dye Removal and Oil-Water Separation,” published in November 2024 in the journal Fibers. Co-authors are Hansadi Jayamaha, doctoral candidate in the field of fiber science, and Isabel Schorn ’26, a fiber science undergraduate.

Jayamaha found that 12 milligrams of silk filament yarn have 90% MB dye removal efficiency within 10 minutes of exposure, for concentrations up to 100 parts per million, substantially greater than the efficiency of other forms – even electrospun fiber mats or fabrics treated with the hollow silk microparticle spheres, which was a surprise, the researchers said.

“By creating the spheres,” Jayamaha said, “we were creating a more hydrophilic surface compared to the silk fabric, which is more hydrophobic. But by disassembling the fabric to the yarn stage, we are creating higher surface area, and that improves the adsorption.”

The group also tested silk textile adsorption capacity with oil, and found that Noil fabric (a textile that contains silk yarns composed of short fibers, rather than filament) displays oil adsorption capacities three times the initial weight of the fabric for corn oil, and close to twice the weight for gasoline.

Tests on both materials showed that, following a diminishment of function after the first cleaning-reuse cycle, the material maintained its functionality for the subsequent nine cycles.
This intrinsic property of silk as a dye adsorbent, the group found, can be achieved without chemical or other alteration of the material – just deconstructing the textile product.
     
“When you regenerate silk, you have to use very harsh chemicals,” Shepherd said. “In our case, we’re just using the fabrics themselves. Yes, we may have to unravel them to get the benefit, but that’s much better than putting these harsh chemicals out into the environment.”

Shepherd envisions “pillows” containing the silk yarn unraveled from discarded textiles and remnants from the cut and sew operations of the textiles industry as being an effective means of cleaning up spills and waste materials, including MB dye, which is detrimental to agricultural land and waterways when it is accidentally released from textile plants.

“We realized that we can kill two birds with one stone: We can get rid of waste textiles, which is a big issue in the textile industry in general,” Shepherd said. “And then we found that it’s actually really good at adsorbing, just because of its natural, structural properties.”

This work made use of the Cornell Center for Materials Research Shared Facilities, as well as the Cornell NanoScale Science and Technology Facility, a member of the National Nanotechnology Coordinated Infrastructure, which is supported by the National Science Foundation. This work was partially funded by an American Association of Textiles Chemists and Colorists graduate research grant.

Source:

Tom Fleischman, Cornell Chronicle

Stains on the white cotton fabric treated with zinc oxide. Photo: Mikael Nyberg / University of Turku
11.12.2024

Self-cleaning cotton or a colour-changing print

For many years researchers from Nordic countries have worked for making textile industry more sustainable. Now there are prototypes of cotton which can clean itself and of textiles which are created of invasive lupines.  

How could future clothes and textiles become more ecofriendly, smart and sustainable? A research group from Nordic countries has tried to figure out this for many years and in October the prototypes they have made were presented in an exhibition in Turku.

A doctoral researcher Alicja Lawrynowicz from Faculty of Technology at the University of Turku has been developing two different smart textiles. In one of the projects researchers have created a cotton fabric which can clean itself without water.

For many years researchers from Nordic countries have worked for making textile industry more sustainable. Now there are prototypes of cotton which can clean itself and of textiles which are created of invasive lupines.  

How could future clothes and textiles become more ecofriendly, smart and sustainable? A research group from Nordic countries has tried to figure out this for many years and in October the prototypes they have made were presented in an exhibition in Turku.

A doctoral researcher Alicja Lawrynowicz from Faculty of Technology at the University of Turku has been developing two different smart textiles. In one of the projects researchers have created a cotton fabric which can clean itself without water.

This is possible because the fabric has been treated with mineral called zinc oxide.
 
The mineral forms a self-cleaning layer and stains on the fabric disappear when they are exposed to the daylight, in other words ultraviolet light. If stains disappear by themselves, it reduces the need of washing and garment burdens nature less.

Here you can see how the stains gradually disappear on the white cotton fabric that has been treated with zinc oxide.

In the other textile project, researchers have managed to develop non-toxic textile print which changes its colour when it is subjected to sunlight. Mineral hackmanite, which reacts to ultraviolet radiation, is used here. The mineral does not originate from mines but is created in a laboratory in Turku.

For first time ever, hackmanite is now used in textile prints. The mineral works as an ultraviolet censor and changes its colour when you have been too long time in the sun and must protect yourself. It can reduce the risk for the damage of the sun, says Alicja Lawrynowicz.

Material out to the market
Prototypes which now have been retrieved are not yet available in larger scale. So, what is going to happen with all discoveries?
The idea is that they are not going to stay in the laboratory. We hope that in the future our innovations will be used in industry, says Lawrynowicz.

The research is multidisciplinary, which means that there has been cooperation between different research groups. Research goes on also in other Nordic countries.  

Lupine can become textiles
In Denmark one research group has invested in ecofriendly colouring and created dyes out of big amounts of waste from local restaurants, among others avocado and onion peels. Avocado peels give textiles a beautiful yellow colour and onion creates brown nuances. In future these colours could replace traditional, toxic dyes.

At the same time researchers in Aalto University have produced textiles out of lupine, which is an invasive species in Finland.

Until now we have been removing lupines out of ditches and seeing it as a problem, but here researchers have created fibers and been able to weave a cloth out of it, says research coordinator Helen Salminen from the field of material science at the University of Turku.

Within the framework of the project researchers in Sweden have in turn worked on developing alternatives to plastic fibers (elastane) which are often used in jeans fabric for making fabric more elastic.

Cotton which contains a few percent of plastic fibers is difficult to recycle. This makes it difficult to use the fabric as a raw material for further processes. For that reason, it is important to find new ways to weave fabric so that fabric can be recycled and can be elastic without plastic fibers, says Alicja Lawrynowicz.

Source:

Aalto University, YLE Svenska about the NordForsk-funded project 'Beyond e-Textiles' and 'Interlaced' exhibition at the University of Turku

Graphik University of Copenhagen
22.11.2024

New nanofiber patch for treatment of psoriasis

Researchers at the University of Copenhagen have developed a patch for easier and more effective treatment of psoriasis. The method may also be used in treatment of other inflammatory skin diseases.

4-5 per cent of the Danish population has psoriasis, which is one of the most common skin conditions in the world. The inflammatory disease is characterised by a red rash with white scales, which may vary in form, size and severity.

Today, there are several treatment options for psoriasis patients. Creams and ointments are among the most common. The problem is that the cream must be applied several times a day and leaves the skin feeling greasy, and therefore, some patients often fail to use it consistently, which is vital for treatment success.

Now researchers at the University of Copenhagen have produced a prototype for a patch that may help solve this problem for patients with smaller demarcated areas of plaque psoriasis.

Researchers at the University of Copenhagen have developed a patch for easier and more effective treatment of psoriasis. The method may also be used in treatment of other inflammatory skin diseases.

4-5 per cent of the Danish population has psoriasis, which is one of the most common skin conditions in the world. The inflammatory disease is characterised by a red rash with white scales, which may vary in form, size and severity.

Today, there are several treatment options for psoriasis patients. Creams and ointments are among the most common. The problem is that the cream must be applied several times a day and leaves the skin feeling greasy, and therefore, some patients often fail to use it consistently, which is vital for treatment success.

Now researchers at the University of Copenhagen have produced a prototype for a patch that may help solve this problem for patients with smaller demarcated areas of plaque psoriasis.

“We have developed a dry patch, which contains active ingredients for treatment of psoriasis, and which reduces the frequency of use to once a day. It has the potential to make treatment more comfortable for plaque psoriasis patients,” says Associate Professor Andrea Heinz from the Department of Pharmacy, who is the corresponding author on a series of articles exploring the patch’s ability to treat plaque psoriasis.

One patch serving several functions
The patch is designed to contain two active ingredients at once and release them onto the skin at different rates.

“It is really clever, because treatment of psoriasis often requires more than one product. The two ingredients are released in a controlled manner and at different rates, as they serve different functions: Salicylic acid is released immediately to remove the dead cells that have accumulated on the skin, while hydrocortisone decreases inflammation of the skin – a process that takes more time,” says first author of the studies Anna-Lena Gürtler and adds:

“We have tested the prototype on pig skin and human skin cells and compared the results to the creams and ointments available at pharmacies, and our studies show that the patch is just as effective as standard treatments.”

Potential to treat other conditions
The researchers used electrospinning to produce the patch – a method where high voltage is applied to a polymer solution to produce synthetic nanofibers. The fibres are then used to make a fibre mat that may be attached to the skin like a plaster.

The researchers are still working on the patch. More research, product development and clinical trials are needed before the method is ready for use. According to Andrea Heinz, though, it has great potential that extends beyond psoriasis treatment:

“A patch containing active ingredients may be an alternative to creams and ointments in the treatment of other inflammatory skin diseases, for instance atopic eczema. It may also be useful in connection with wound healing.”

More information:
psoriasis patch Elektrospinning
Source:

William Brøns Petersen, University of Copernhagen

Water hyacinth Photo: Pixabay, Hồng Vũ
15.10.2024

DITF: Water hyacinth plant pots

Together with Fiber Engineering GmbH, the DITF presents a process for the production of biodegradable plant pots. The products are cost effective and competitive. At the same time, the production process combats the spread of the invasive water hyacinth, whose biomass serves as the raw material for the plant pots.

Combating an invasive species and reaping economic benefits at the same time? What sounds like a contradiction in terms has been successfully achieved by DITF scientists in a joint project with several companies.

Together with Fiber Engineering GmbH, the DITF presents a process for the production of biodegradable plant pots. The products are cost effective and competitive. At the same time, the production process combats the spread of the invasive water hyacinth, whose biomass serves as the raw material for the plant pots.

Combating an invasive species and reaping economic benefits at the same time? What sounds like a contradiction in terms has been successfully achieved by DITF scientists in a joint project with several companies.

Water hyacinth is a rapidly spreading plant that has been recognized as a threat to existing ecosystems in many countries around the world. In particular, Lake Victoria in Africa is suffering from the widespread spread of water hyacinth. Fish deaths due to oxygen depletion, the production of climate-damaging methane gas during decomposition, and the obstruction of shipping and energy production are among the most prominent problems. They offer a grim preview of what is on the horizon in many other countries. As an invasive species, water hyacinth is spreading into many ecosystems around the world as a result of human activities, threatening the quality of human life.

Several approaches have been taken to control the spread of water hyacinth. The main focus is on removing the carpet of plants from the water and then recycling the resulting biomass. This is also the starting point for the research project co-led by the DITF, which aims to produce a new, cost-effective composite material from the fibrous plant material. The result is a prototype plant pot that is competitive and meets all the technical requirements of the project objectives.

At the beginning of the project, the project partners defined the material requirements for the plant pot. These include good dimensional stability, which must also be ensured when the pot is filled with wet soil. The use of physiologically harmless materials for contact with food plants is also an important requirement, as is a cost-effective and therefore competitive production method. However, the main focus is on complete biodegradability and thus the unrestricted compostability of the plant pot.

The biomaterial for the production of the plant pots comes from Louisiana and is directly marketed by In-Between International under the product name CYNTHIA®. This raw material has been extensively tested and modified at the DITF with regard to its composition and suitability for technical processing. It consists mainly of cellulose and must first be screened and treated with a hydrophobic agent for further processing. Hydrophobing is necessary to give the plant pots a certain resistance to moisture.

The prepared raw material now needs to be combined with a binder. The binder binds the plant fibers and ensures the dimensional stability of the plant pot. Laboratory tests with various binders have identified those that guarantee good processability and dimensional stability of the fiber composite. A thermoplastic was selected that was easy to process in a hot press and that fully met the requirements for biodegradability.

Further laboratory tests determined the ideal ratio of binder to fiber raw material. Tests in an industrial composting plant showed that the material was fully biodegradable and that the plant pots would decompose within a reasonable period of time - a stability of 4-6 weeks was the project goal.

The researchers produced test samples for all these preliminary tests in the form of fiber composite panels on a hot press. The next step was to produce the first prototypes of plant pots from the pre-treated fiber material with the appropriate binder. This part was carried out by the project partner, Fiber Engineering GmbH from Karlsruhe. This company has extensive expertise in the field of fiber injection molding (FIM), which makes it possible to produce 3-dimensional molded parts from fibers in simple and fast process steps. Fiber Engineering GmbH has optimized its existing process for processing the water hyacinth fiber material. It produced a series of plant pots and thus realized the last step of the project objective.

A cost calculation, taking into account all the materials and processes used, confirmed that the plant pots could be produced extremely cheaply at a production price of less than five cents per pot, making them marketable. In daily use, garden centers will appreciate the haptic advantages - strength and moisture resistance despite the fact that the material is completely biodegradable. The fact that the material used is helping to solve a global environmental problem should be another plus when it comes to marketing the product.

Image: MIT News; iStock
12.08.2024

Creating quiet spaces with sound-suppressing silk

Researchers engineered a hair-thin fabric to create a lightweight, compact, and efficient mechanism to reduce noise transmission in a large room.

We are living in a very noisy world. From the hum of traffic outside your window to the next-door neighbor’s blaring TV to sounds from a co-worker’s cubicle, unwanted noise remains a resounding problem.

To cut through the din, an interdisciplinary collaboration of researchers from MIT and elsewhere developed a sound-suppressing silk fabric that could be used to create quiet spaces.

The fabric, which is barely thicker than a human hair, contains a special fiber that vibrates when a voltage is applied to it. The researchers leveraged those vibrations to suppress sound in two different ways.

Researchers engineered a hair-thin fabric to create a lightweight, compact, and efficient mechanism to reduce noise transmission in a large room.

We are living in a very noisy world. From the hum of traffic outside your window to the next-door neighbor’s blaring TV to sounds from a co-worker’s cubicle, unwanted noise remains a resounding problem.

To cut through the din, an interdisciplinary collaboration of researchers from MIT and elsewhere developed a sound-suppressing silk fabric that could be used to create quiet spaces.

The fabric, which is barely thicker than a human hair, contains a special fiber that vibrates when a voltage is applied to it. The researchers leveraged those vibrations to suppress sound in two different ways.

In one, the vibrating fabric generates sound waves that interfere with an unwanted noise to cancel it out, similar to noise-canceling headphones, which work well in a small space like your ears but do not work in large enclosures like rooms or planes.

In the other, more surprising technique, the fabric is held still to suppress vibrations that are key to the transmission of sound. This prevents noise from being transmitted through the fabric and quiets the volume beyond. This second approach allows for noise reduction in much larger spaces like rooms or cars.

By using common materials like silk, canvas, and muslin, the researchers created noise-suppressing fabrics which would be practical to implement in real-world spaces. For instance, one could use such a fabric to make dividers in open workspaces or thin fabric walls that prevent sound from getting through.

The fabric can suppress sound by generating sound waves that interfere with an unwanted noise to cancel it out (as seen in figure C) or by being held still to suppress vibrations that are key to the transmission of sound (as seen in figure D).

“Noise is a lot easier to create than quiet. In fact, to keep noise out we dedicate a lot of space to thick walls. [First author] Grace’s work provides a new mechanism for creating quiet spaces with a thin sheet of fabric,” says Yoel Fink, a professor in the departments of Materials Science and Engineering and Electrical Engineering and Computer Science, a Research Laboratory of Electronics principal investigator, and senior author of a paper on the fabric.

Silky silence
The sound-suppressing silk builds off the group’s prior work to create fabric microphones.

In that research, they sewed a single strand of piezoelectric fiber into fabric. Piezoelectric materials produce an electrical signal when squeezed or bent. When a nearby noise causes the fabric to vibrate, the piezoelectric fiber converts those vibrations into an electrical signal, which can capture the sound.

In the new work, the researchers flipped that idea to create a fabric loudspeaker that can be used to cancel out soundwaves.

“While we can use fabric to create sound, there is already so much noise in our world. We thought creating silence could be even more valuable,” Yang says.

Applying an electrical signal to the piezoelectric fiber causes it to vibrate, which generates sound. The researchers demonstrated this by playing Bach’s “Air” using a 130-micrometer sheet of silk mounted on a circular frame.

To enable direct sound suppression, the researchers use a silk fabric loudspeaker to emit sound waves that destructively interfere with unwanted sound waves. They control the vibrations of the piezoelectric fiber so that sound waves emitted by the fabric are opposite of unwanted sound waves that strike the fabric, which can cancel out the noise.

However, this technique is only effective over a small area. So, the researchers built off this idea to develop a technique that uses fabric vibrations to suppress sound in much larger areas, like a bedroom.

Let’s say your next-door neighbors are playing foosball in the middle of the night. You hear noise in your bedroom because the sound in their apartment causes your shared wall to vibrate, which forms sound waves on your side.

To suppress that sound, the researchers could place the silk fabric onto your side of the shared wall, controlling the vibrations in the fiber to force the fabric to remain still. This vibration-mediated suppression prevents sound from being transmitted through the fabric.

“If we can control those vibrations and stop them from happening, we can stop the noise that is generated, as well,” Yang says.

A mirror for sound
Surprisingly, the researchers found that holding the fabric still causes sound to be reflected by the fabric, resulting in a thin piece of silk that reflects sound like a mirror does with light.

Their experiments also revealed that both the mechanical properties of a fabric and the size of its pores affect the efficiency of sound generation. While silk and muslin have similar mechanical properties, the smaller pore sizes of silk make it a better fabric loudspeaker.

But the effective pore size also depends on the frequency of sound waves. If the frequency is low enough, even a fabric with relatively large pores could function effectively, Yang says.

When they tested the silk fabric in direct suppression mode, the researchers found that it could significantly reduce the volume of sounds up to 65 decibels (about as loud as enthusiastic human conversation). In vibration-mediated suppression mode, the fabric could reduce sound transmission up to 75 percent.

These results were only possible due to a robust group of collaborators, Fink says. Graduate students at the Rhode Island School of Design helped the researchers understand the details of constructing fabrics; scientists at the University of Wisconsin at Madison conducted simulations; researchers at Case Western Reserve University characterized materials; and chemical engineers in the Smith Group at MIT used their expertise in gas membrane separation to measure airflow through the fabric.

Moving forward, the researchers want to explore the use of their fabric to block sound of multiple frequencies. This would likely require complex signal processing and additional electronics.

In addition, they want to further study the architecture of the fabric to see how changing things like the number of piezoelectric fibers, the direction in which they are sewn, or the applied voltages could improve performance.

“There are a lot of knobs we can turn to make this sound-suppressing fabric really effective. We want to get people thinking about controlling structural vibrations to suppress sound. This is just the beginning,” says Yang.

This work is funded, in part, by the National Science Foundation (NSF), the Army Research Office (ARO), the Defense Threat Reduction Agency (DTRA), and the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation.

Source:

Adam Zewe | MIT News

Neste provides renewable Neste RE, a raw material for polymers and chemicals made from bio-based materials. Source: Neste
06.08.2024

First polyester supply chain from sustainable feedstock

A consortium of seven companies across five countries has jointly established a supply chain for more sustainable polyester fiber. Instead of fossil materials, renewable and bio-based materials as well as carbon capture and utilization (CCU*) will be used in the manufacturing of polyester fibers for The North Face brand in Japan. The consortium parties are Goldwin, in the role of project owner, Mitsubishi Corporation, Chiyoda Corporation (all three from Japan), SK geo centric (South Korea), Indorama Ventures (Thailand), India Glycols (India) and Neste.

Neste will provide renewable Neste RE™ as one of the required ingredients for polyester production. The polyester fiber produced in the project is planned to be used by Goldwin for a part of The North Face products, including sports uniforms, in July 2024. After that, the launch of further Goldwin products and brands will be considered.

A consortium of seven companies across five countries has jointly established a supply chain for more sustainable polyester fiber. Instead of fossil materials, renewable and bio-based materials as well as carbon capture and utilization (CCU*) will be used in the manufacturing of polyester fibers for The North Face brand in Japan. The consortium parties are Goldwin, in the role of project owner, Mitsubishi Corporation, Chiyoda Corporation (all three from Japan), SK geo centric (South Korea), Indorama Ventures (Thailand), India Glycols (India) and Neste.

Neste will provide renewable Neste RE™ as one of the required ingredients for polyester production. The polyester fiber produced in the project is planned to be used by Goldwin for a part of The North Face products, including sports uniforms, in July 2024. After that, the launch of further Goldwin products and brands will be considered.

The seven companies apply a mass balancing approach to ensure credible traceability of material streams throughout the supply chain and will jointly continue to proactively promote the defossilization of materials to contribute to a more sustainable society.

Neste (NESTE, Nasdaq Helsinki) uses science and innovative technology to transform waste and other resources into renewable fuels and circular raw materials. The company creates solutions for combating climate change and accelerating a shift to a circular economy. Being the world’s leading producer of sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) and renewable diesel and a forerunner in developing renewable and circular feedstock solutions for polymers and chemicals, the company aims to help its customers to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions by at least 20 million tons annually by 2030.

The company’s ambition is to make the Porvoo oil refinery in Finland the most sustainable refinery in Europe. Neste is committed to reaching carbon-neutral production by 2035, and will reduce the carbon emission intensity of sold products by 50% by 2040. Neste has also set high standards for biodiversity, human rights and the supply chain. The company has consistently been included in the CDP and the Global 100 lists of the world’s most sustainable companies. In 2023, Neste's revenue stood at EUR 22.9 billion

Source:

Neste

Bread waste + fungi = yarn (c) Photos by Kanishka Wijayarathna (bread waste), Erik Norving (prototypes), Andreas Nordin (researchers) and Sofie Svensson (microscope).
17.07.2024

Bread waste + fungi = yarn

The production of new materials from fungi is an emerging research area. In a research project at the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås, wet spinning of fungal cell wall material has shown promising results. In the project, fungi were grown on bread waste to produce textile fibers with potential in the medical technology field.

Sofie Svensson's project addresses, among other things, the UN's Global Goals 9, sustainable industry, innovation, and infrastructure, and Goal 12, sustainable consumption and production, as the project aimed to use sustainable methods in a resource- and cost-effective way, with less impact on people and the environment.

Sofie Svensson, who recently defended her dissertation in the field of Resource Recovery, explained:

The production of new materials from fungi is an emerging research area. In a research project at the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås, wet spinning of fungal cell wall material has shown promising results. In the project, fungi were grown on bread waste to produce textile fibers with potential in the medical technology field.

Sofie Svensson's project addresses, among other things, the UN's Global Goals 9, sustainable industry, innovation, and infrastructure, and Goal 12, sustainable consumption and production, as the project aimed to use sustainable methods in a resource- and cost-effective way, with less impact on people and the environment.

Sofie Svensson, who recently defended her dissertation in the field of Resource Recovery, explained:

“My research project is about developing fibres spun from filamentous fungi for textile applications. The fungi were grown on bread waste from grocery stores. Waste that would otherwise have a significant environmental impact if discarded.”

The novelty of the project lies in the method used – wet spinning of cell wall material.

“Wet spinning is a method used to spin fibres (filaments) from materials such as cellulose. In this project, cell wall material from filamentous fungi was used to produce fibres through wet spinning. The cell wall material from the fungi contains various polymers, mainly polysaccharides such as chitin, chitosan, and glucan. The challenge was to spin the material. It took some time initially before we found the right conditions”, explained Sofie Svensson.

Antibacterial properties
Filamentous fungi were cultivated in bioreactors to produce fungal biomass. Cell wall material was then isolated from the fungal biomass and used to spin a filament, which was tested for its suitability in medical applications.

“Tests of the fibers showed compatibility with skin cells and also indicated an antibacterial effect”, said Sofie Svensson, adding:

“In the method we worked with, we focused on using milder processes and chemicals. The use of hazardous and toxic chemicals is currently a challenge in the textile industry, and developing sustainable materials is important to reduce environmental impact.”

What is the significance of the results?
“New materials from fungi are an emerging research area. Hopefully, this research can contribute to the development of new sustainable materials from fungi”, explained Sofie Svensson.

Interest from the surrounding community has been significant during the project, and many have had a positive attitude toward the development of this type of material.

When will we see products made from these fibers?
“This particular method is at the lab scale and still in the research stage”, she explained.

The doctoral project was conducted within the larger research project Sustainable Fungal Textiles: A novel approach for reuse of food waste.

What is the next step in research on fungal fibers?
“Future studies could focus on optimizing the wet spinning process to achieve continuous production of fungal fibers. Additionally, testing the cultivation of fungi on other types of food waste.”

How have you experienced your time as a doctoral student in Resource Recovery?
“It has been an intense period as a doctoral student, and I have been really challenged and developed a lot.”

What is your next step?
“I will be taking parental leave for a while before taking the next step, which is yet to be decided.”

Sofie Svensson defended her dissertation on 14 June at the Swedish Centre for Resource Recovery, University of Borås.
 
Read the dissertation: Development of Filaments Using Cell Wall Material of Filamentous Fungi Grown on Bread Waste for Application in Medical Textiles

Opponent: Han Hösten, Professor, Utrecht University
Main Supervisor: Akram Zamani, Associate Professor, University of Borås
Co-Supervisors: Minna Hakkarainen, Professor, KTH; Lena Berglin, Associate Professor, University of Borå

Source:

University of Borås, Solveig Klug

Empa researcher Edith Perret is developing special fibers that can deliver drugs in a targeted manner. Image EMPA
01.07.2024

Medical Fibers with "Inner Values"

Medical products such as ointments or syringes reach their limits when it comes to delivering medication locally – and above all in a controlled manner over a longer period of time. Empa researchers are therefore developing polymer fibers that can deliver active ingredients precisely over the long term. These "liquid core fibers" contain drugs inside and can be processed into medical textiles.

Medical products such as ointments or syringes reach their limits when it comes to delivering medication locally – and above all in a controlled manner over a longer period of time. Empa researchers are therefore developing polymer fibers that can deliver active ingredients precisely over the long term. These "liquid core fibers" contain drugs inside and can be processed into medical textiles.

Treating a wound or an inflammation directly where it occurs has clear advantages: The active ingredient reaches its target immediately, and there are no negative side effects on uninvolved parts of the body. However, conventional local administration methods reach their limits when it comes to precisely dosing active ingredients over a longer period of time. As soon as an ointment leaves the tube or the injection fluid flows out of the syringe, it is almost impossible to control the amount of active ingredient. Edith Perret from Empa's Advanced Fibers laboratory in St. Gallen is therefore developing medical fibers with very special "inner values": The polymer fibers enclose a liquid core with therapeutic ingredients. The aim: medical products with special capabilities, e.g. surgical suture material, wound dressings and textile implants that can administer painkillers, antibiotics or insulin precisely over a longer period of time. Another aim is to achieve individual, patient-specific dosage of the drug in the sense of personalized medicine.

Biocompatible and tailor-made
A decisive factor that turns a conventional textile fiber into a medical product is the material of the fiber sheath. The team chose polycaprolactone (PCL), a biocompatible and biodegradable polymer that is already being used successfully in the medical field. The fiber sheath encloses the valuable substance, such as a painkiller or an antibacterial drug, and releases it over time. Using a unique pilot plant, the researchers produced PCL fibers with a continuous liquid core by means of melt spinning. In initial lab tests, stable and flexible liquid-core fibers were produced. What's more, the Empa team had already successfully demonstrated, together with a Swiss industrial partner, that this process not only works in the lab but also on an industrial scale.

The parameters according to which the medical fibers release an enclosed agent were first investigated using fluorescent model substances and then with various drugs. "Small molecules such as the painkiller ibuprofen move gradually through the structure of the outer sheath," says Edith Perret. Larger molecules, on the other hand, are released at the two ends of the fibers.

Precisely controllable and effective in the long term
“Thanks to a variety of parameters, the properties of the medical fibers can be precisely controlled," explains the Empa researcher. After extensive analyses using fluorescence spectroscopy, X-ray technology and electron microscopy, the researchers were able to demonstrate, for instance, the influence of the sheath thickness and crystal structure of the sheath material on the release rate of the drugs from the liquid core fibers.

Depending on the active ingredient, the manufacturing process can also be adapted: Active ingredients that are insensitive to high temperatures during melt spinning can be integrated directly into the core of the fibers in a continuous process. For temperature-sensitive drugs, on the other hand, the team was able to optimize the process so that a placeholder initially fills the liquid core, which is replaced later on by the sensitive active ingredient.

One of the advantages of liquid core fibers is the ability to release the active ingredient from a reservoir over a longer period of time. This opens up a wide range of possible applications. With diameters of 50 to 200 micrometers, the fibers are large enough to be woven or knitted into robust textiles, for example. However, the medical fibers could also be guided inside the body to deliver hormones such as insulin, says Perret. Another advantage: Fibers that have released their medication can be refilled. The range of active ingredients that can be administered easily, conveniently and precisely using liquid core fibers is large. In addition to painkillers, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics and even lifestyle preparations are conceivable.

In a next step, the researchers want to equip surgical suture material with antimicrobial properties. The new process will be used to fill various liquid core materials with antibiotics in order to suture tissue during an operation in such a way that wound germs have no chance of causing an infection. Empa researcher Perret is also convinced that future collaboration with clinical partners will form the basis for further innovative clinical applications.

Aiming for clinical partnerships
Advancing a new technology? Identifying innovative applications? Empa researcher Edith Perret is looking for interested clinicians who recognize the potential of drug delivery via liquid core fibers and want to become active in this field.

 

Source:

Dr. Andrea Six, EMPA

Biofibers made from gelatin in a rainbow of colors. © Utility Research Lab
25.06.2024

Designers make dissolvable textiles from gelatin

Introducing the fashion of the future: a T-shirt you can wear a few times, then, when you get bored with it, dissolve and recycle to make a new shirt.

Researchers at the ATLAS Institute at the CU Boulder are now one step closer to that goal. In a new study, the team of engineers and designers developed a DIY machine that spins textile fibers made of materials like sustainably sourced gelatin. The group’s “biofibers” feel a bit like flax fiber and dissolve in hot water in minutes to an hour.

The team, led by Eldy Lázaro Vásquez, a doctoral student in the ATLAS Institute, presented its findings in May at the CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems in Honolulu.

“When you don’t want these textiles anymore, you can dissolve them and recycle the gelatin to make more fibers,” said Michael Rivera, a co-author of the new research and assistant professor in the ATLAS Institute and Department of Computer Science.

Introducing the fashion of the future: a T-shirt you can wear a few times, then, when you get bored with it, dissolve and recycle to make a new shirt.

Researchers at the ATLAS Institute at the CU Boulder are now one step closer to that goal. In a new study, the team of engineers and designers developed a DIY machine that spins textile fibers made of materials like sustainably sourced gelatin. The group’s “biofibers” feel a bit like flax fiber and dissolve in hot water in minutes to an hour.

The team, led by Eldy Lázaro Vásquez, a doctoral student in the ATLAS Institute, presented its findings in May at the CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems in Honolulu.

“When you don’t want these textiles anymore, you can dissolve them and recycle the gelatin to make more fibers,” said Michael Rivera, a co-author of the new research and assistant professor in the ATLAS Institute and Department of Computer Science.

The study tackles a growing problem around the world: In 2018 alone, people in the United States added more than 11 million tons of textiles to landfills, according to the Environmental Protection Agency—nearly 8% of all municipal solid waste produced that year.

The researchers envision a different path for fashion.

Their machine is small enough to fit on a desk and cost just $560 to build. Lázaro Vásquez hopes the device will help designers around the world experiment with making their own biofibers.

“You could customize fibers with the strength and elasticity you want, the color you want,” she said. “With this kind of prototyping machine, anyone can make fibers. You don’t need the big machines that are only in university chemistry departments.”

Spinning threads
The study arrives as fashionistas, roboticists and more are embracing a trend known as “smart textiles.” Levi’s Trucker Jacket with Jacquard by Google, for example, looks like a denim coat but includes sensors that can connect to your smartphone.

But such clothing of the future comes with a downside, Rivera said:

“That jacket isn't really recyclable. It's difficult to separate the denim from the copper yarns and the electronics.”

To imagine a new way of making clothes, the team started with gelatin. This springy protein is common in the bones of many animals, including pigs and cows. Every year, meat producers throw away large volumes of gelatin that doesn’t meet requirements for cosmetics or food products like Jell-O. (Lázaro Vásquez bought her own gelatin, which comes as a powder, from a local butcher shop.)

She and her colleagues decided to turn that waste into wearable treasure.

The group’s machine uses a plastic syringe to heat up and squeeze out droplets of a liquid gelatin mixture. Two sets of rollers in the machine then tug on the gelatin, stretching it out into long, skinny fibers—not unlike a spider spinning a web from silk. In the process, the fibers also pass through liquid baths where the researchers can introduce bio-based dyes or other additives to the material. Adding a little bit of genipin, an extract from fruit, for example, makes the fibers stronger.

Other co-authors of the research included Mirela Alistar and Laura Devendorf, both assistant professors in ATLAS.

Dissolving duds
Lázaro Vásquez said designers may be able to do anything they can imagine with these sorts of textiles.

As a proof of concept, the researchers made small textile sensors out of gelatin fibers and cotton and conductive yarns, similar to the makeup of a Jacquard jacket. The team then submerged these patches in warm water. The gelatin dissolved, releasing the yarns for easy recycling and reuse.

Designers could tweak the chemistry of the fibers to make them a little more resilient, Lázaro Vásquez said—you wouldn’t want your jacket to disappear in the rain. They could also play around with spinning similar fibers from other natural ingredients. Those materials include chitin, a component of crab shells, or agar-agar, which comes from algae.

“We’re trying to think about the whole lifecycle of our textiles,” Lázaro Vásquez said. “That begins with where the material is coming from. Can we get it from something that normally goes to waste?”

More information:
Gelatin biofibres DIY
Source:

University of Colorado Boulder | Daniel Strain

Photo: Damir Omerovic, Unsplash
12.06.2024

Crops to tackle environmental harm of synthetics

From risottos to sauces, mushrooms have long been a staple in the kitchen. Now fungi are showing the potential to serve up more than just flavor—as a sustainable, bendy material for the fashion industry.

Researchers are using the web-like structure of the mushroom's root system—the mycelium—as an alternative to synthetic fibers for clothing and other products such as car seats.

"It's definitely a change of mindset in the manufacturing process," said Annalisa Moro, EU project leader at Italy-based Mogu, which makes interior-design products from the mycelium. "You're really collaborating with nature to grow something rather than create it, so it's kind of futuristic."

Mogu, located 50 kilometers northwest of Milan, is managing a research initiative to develop nonwoven fabrics made of mycelium fibers for the textile industry.

From risottos to sauces, mushrooms have long been a staple in the kitchen. Now fungi are showing the potential to serve up more than just flavor—as a sustainable, bendy material for the fashion industry.

Researchers are using the web-like structure of the mushroom's root system—the mycelium—as an alternative to synthetic fibers for clothing and other products such as car seats.

"It's definitely a change of mindset in the manufacturing process," said Annalisa Moro, EU project leader at Italy-based Mogu, which makes interior-design products from the mycelium. "You're really collaborating with nature to grow something rather than create it, so it's kind of futuristic."

Mogu, located 50 kilometers northwest of Milan, is managing a research initiative to develop nonwoven fabrics made of mycelium fibers for the textile industry.

Called MY-FI, the project runs for four years through October 2024 and brings together companies, research institutes, industry organizations and academic institutions from across Europe.

MY-FI highlights how the EU is pushing for more sustainable production and consumption in the textile and apparel industry, which employs around 1.3 million people in Europe and has annual turnover of €167 billion.

While getting most of its textiles from abroad, the EU produces them in countries including France, Germany, Italy and Spain. Italy accounts for more than 40% of EU apparel production.

Delicate and durable
The mycelium grows from starter spawn added to crops such as cereals. The threadlike filaments of the hyphae, the vegetative part of the fungus, create a material that grows on top. It is harvested and dried, resulting in soft, silky white sheets of nonwoven fabric that are 50 to 60 square centimeters.

The delicate material is made stronger and more durable through the addition of bio-based chemicals that bind the fibers together.

Its ecological origins contrast with those of most synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester, which derive from fossil fuels such as coal and oil.

That means production of synthetic fibers adds to greenhouse-gas emissions that are accelerating climate change. In addition, when washed, these materials shed microplastics that often end up polluting the environment including rivers, seas and oceans.

The MY-FI mycelium needs very little soil, water or chemicals, giving it greener credentials than even natural fibers such as cotton.

Dress rehearsal
For the fashion industry, the soft, water-resistant properties of the mycelium are as appealing as its environmental credentials.

Just ask Mariagrazia Sanua, sustainability and certification manager at Dyloan Bond Factory, an Italian fashion designer and manufacturer that is part of MY-FI.

The company has used the mycelium-based material—in black and brown and with a waxed finish—to produce a prototype dress, a top-and-midi-skirt combination, bags and small leather accessories.

Laser cutting and screen printing were used to evaluate the material's behavior. The challenge was to adapt to the sheets of fabric—squares of the mycelium material rather than traditional rolls of textiles like cotton, linen and polyester—as well as properties such as tensile strength and seam tightness.

"We have had to completely change the paradigm and design processes and garments based on the material," said Sanua.

The company hopes the mycelium material will be a way of offering consumers a range of products that can be alternatives to animal leather.

Leather-unbound
Meanwhile, Germany-based Volks¬wagen, the world's No. 2 car manufacturer, is looking to mycelium technologies to reduce its environmental footprint and move away from leather for vehicle interiors.

Customers increasingly want animal-free materials for interiors from seat covers and door panels to dashboards and steering wheels, so adding a sustainable substitute for leather is an exciting prospect, according to Dr. Martina Gottschling, a researcher at Volkswagen Group Innovation.

"A fast-growing biological material that can be produced animal-free and with little effort, which also does not require petroleum-based resources, is a game-changer in interior materials," she said.

The mycelium material is also lighter than leather, another positive for reducing VW's carbon footprint.

The company's involvement in MY-FI is driving project researchers at Utrecht University in the Netherlands and I-TECH Lyon in France to enhance the durability of the mycelium fabric. To move from prototype to production line, the fabric must meet quality requirements set by VW to ensure the material lasts for the life of the vehicle.

It's a challenge that Gottschling believes will be met in the coming decade.

"We already see the material as one of the high-quality materials for interior applications that will be possible in the future," she said.

When life gives you tomatoes
Mushrooms aren't the only food with the potential to spin a sustainable-yarn revolution. Tomato stems have a hidden talent too, according to Dr. Ozgur Atalay and Dr. Alper Gurarslan of Istanbul Technical University in Turkey.

Seeing tomato vines left to wither in the fields after the crop was harvested, Atalay and Gurarslan began to investigate whether the stems could be transformed into sustainable fibers.

Tests proved that the agricultural waste could indeed be turned into yarn. But Atalay and Gurarslan were determined to go a step further. They wanted to use tomato stems to create a type of yarn for garments that monitor heart beats, respiratory rates and joint movements.

The two researchers lead a project to create this kind of electrically conductive apparel using—for the first time—sustainable materials.

Called SMARTWASTE, the project runs for four years until the end of 2026 and also involves academic and research organizations from Germany, Italy, the Netherlands and Poland.

"The beauty of the project is that we are starting from waste," said Atalay. "We are taking agricultural waste and not just creating regular textiles but something much more valuable."

While cost estimates will follow later in the project when design partners work on creating actual products, he signaled that smart clothing will be a good deal more expensive than the ordinary kind.

A smart textile shirt could cost as much as €1,000, according to Atalay.

The specialized material, limited production runs and research and development needed to create wearable technologies that are durable, washable and comfortable all contribute to the price tag.

Advancements in technology should eventually lead to lower production costs and consumer prices.

Seeds of poplar success
The Turkish countryside has also inspired a second strand to the project. Turkey's abundant poplar trees and—more specifically—their white, fluffy cotton-like seeds prompted Gurarslan to investigate whether they could be a sustainable textile source.

While their fibers have been dismissed as too short to make a yarn, the seeds have three particular properties that appeal to the textile industry: a hollow, pipe-like structure that can trap heat to provide thermal qualities, an antibacterial nature and water resistance.

The network of SMARTWASTE experts has blended the seeds with recycled polyester to make a nonwoven fabric that the team intends to turn into textile products with enhanced thermal properties.

The researchers hope this is just the start of a far-reaching transformation of textiles.

"Our goal is to train the next generation of researchers and innovators in sustainable textiles," said Atalay.

Photo: 政徳 吉田, Pixabay
03.05.2024

Vehicle underbodies made from natural fibers and recycled plastics

In collaboration with industrial partners, researchers at the Fraunhofer WKI have developed a vehicle underbody made from natural fibers and recycled plastics for automotive construction. The focus at the Fraunhofer WKI was directed at the development of the materials for injection molding as well as the hydrophobization of flax and hemp fibers for natural-fiber-reinforced mixed-fiber non-wovens.

The component fulfills the stringent technical requirements in the underbody area and could replace conventional lightweight vehicle underbodies in the future. With this development, the climate and environmental balance is optimized throughout the entire product life cycle.

In collaboration with industrial partners, researchers at the Fraunhofer WKI have developed a vehicle underbody made from natural fibers and recycled plastics for automotive construction. The focus at the Fraunhofer WKI was directed at the development of the materials for injection molding as well as the hydrophobization of flax and hemp fibers for natural-fiber-reinforced mixed-fiber non-wovens.

The component fulfills the stringent technical requirements in the underbody area and could replace conventional lightweight vehicle underbodies in the future. With this development, the climate and environmental balance is optimized throughout the entire product life cycle.

The project partners Fraunhofer WKI, Thuringian Institute for Textile and Plastics Research (TITK), Röchling Automotive SE & Co. KG, BBP Kunststoffwerk Marbach Baier GmbH and Audi AG have succeeded in developing a sustainable overall concept for vehicle underbodies. The researchers have thereby taken a challenging component group with a high plastic content and made it accessible for the utilization of natural materials. Until now, natural-fiber-reinforced plastics have predominantly been used in cars for trim parts without significant mechanical functions. Structural components such as vehicle underbodies are, however, exposed to enormous loads and place high demands on the bending and crash behavior of the material. In modern lightweight vehicle concepts, high-performance materials made from glass-fiber-reinforced plastics are therefore utilized.

The project team was able to replace the glass fibers with natural materials such as flax, hemp and cellulose fibers and to produce underbody components with a natural-fiber content of up to 45%. In the area of polymers, virgin polypropylene was completely dispensed with and solely recyclates were utilized. All the challenges associated with this material changeover – both the lower initial mechanical properties of the materials and the temporally restricted processing windows – were solved by means of skillful compound combinations.

At the Fraunhofer WKI, materials for injection molding were developed. “Natural-fiber injection-molded compounds have so far been known primarily for their increased strength and stiffness compared to non-reinforced polymers. In the development of the vehicle underbody, we have furthermore succeeded in fulfilling the stringent requirements for low-temperature impact strength through an innovative combination of selected post-consumer recyclates (PCR) as a matrix and natural fibers of varying degrees of purity - without forfeiting the required stiffness and strength,” explained Moritz Micke-Camuz, Project Manager at the Fraunhofer WKI.

Within the framework of the development, fiber-composite components made from natural-fiber-reinforced mixed-fiber non-wovens (lightweight-reinforced thermoplastic, LWRT) were realized for the first time at the TITK and at Röchling. The developed product not only fulfills the mechanical requirements: It also withstands in particular the challenges posed by the humid environment in which it is used. For the hydrophobization of flax and hemp fibers for LWRT components, a continuous furfurylation process was developed at the Fraunhofer WKI. Through furfurylation, moisture absorption can be reduced by up to 35 percent without impairment of the bending strength of the subsequent components. The furfurylated fiber material can also be easily processed on a non-woven production line.

The prototype components produced were subsequently extensively tested both at component level and in road tests. Amongst others, the vehicles from the VW Group’s new “Premium Platform Electric” (PPE) were used for this purpose. Long-term experience has already been gathered within the framework of the series testing. The gratifying result of these tests: The newly developed biocomposites fulfill all standard requirements for underbody components and have proven to be suitable for series production. Neither the use of natural fibers nor of (post-consumer) recyclates leads to a significant impairment of the properties.

One major advantage of the innovation is the significantly improved carbon footprint: Compared to series production, 10.5 kilograms of virgin material (PP/glass fiber) can be replaced by 4.2 kilograms of natural fibers and 6.3 kilograms of post-consumer recyclate. As a result, CO2 emissions during production, use and product life have been reduced by up to 40 percent.

Within the scope of the development project, an innovative, holistic overall concept for vehicle underbodies, including recycling with cascading re-use of the components, was developed. From a technical point of view, vehicle underbodies can be manufactured entirely from the new, high-performance lightweight bio construction material in the future.

The project was funded by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Action (BMWK) via the project management organization TÜV Rheinland.

Source:

Fraunhofer-Institut für Holzforschung, Wilhelm-Klauditz-Institut WKI

(c) MIT Self Assembly Lab
29.04.2024

The 4D Knit Dress - Is this the future of fashion?

Developed by the Self-Assembly Lab, the 4D Knit Dress uses several technologies to create a custom design and a custom fit, while addressing sustainability concerns.

Until recently, bespoke tailoring — clothing made to a customer’s individual specifications — was the only way to have garments that provided the perfect fit for your physique. For most people, the cost of custom tailoring is prohibitive. But the invention of active fibers and innovative knitting processes is changing the textile industry.

“We all wear clothes and shoes,” says Sasha MicKinlay MArch ’23, a recent graduate of the MIT Department of Architecture. “It’s a human need. But there’s also the human need to express oneself. I like the idea of customizing clothes in a sustainable way. This dress promises to be more sustainable than traditional fashion to both the consumer and the producer.”

Developed by the Self-Assembly Lab, the 4D Knit Dress uses several technologies to create a custom design and a custom fit, while addressing sustainability concerns.

Until recently, bespoke tailoring — clothing made to a customer’s individual specifications — was the only way to have garments that provided the perfect fit for your physique. For most people, the cost of custom tailoring is prohibitive. But the invention of active fibers and innovative knitting processes is changing the textile industry.

“We all wear clothes and shoes,” says Sasha MicKinlay MArch ’23, a recent graduate of the MIT Department of Architecture. “It’s a human need. But there’s also the human need to express oneself. I like the idea of customizing clothes in a sustainable way. This dress promises to be more sustainable than traditional fashion to both the consumer and the producer.”

McKinlay is a textile designer and researcher at the Self-Assembly Lab who designed the 4D Knit Dress with Ministry of Supply, a fashion company specializing in high-tech apparel. The dress combines several technologies to create personalized fit and style. Heat-activated yarns, computerized knitting, and robotic activation around each garment generates the sculpted fit. A team at Ministry of Supply led the decisions on the stable yarns, color, original size, and overall design.

“Everyone’s body is different,” says Skylar Tibbits, associate professor in the Department of Architecture and founder of the Self-Assembly Lab. “Even if you wear the same size as another person, you're not actually the same.”

Active textiles
Students in the Self-Assembly Lab have been working with dynamic textiles for several years. The yarns they create can change shape, change property, change insulation, or become breathable. Previous applications to tailor garments include making sweaters and face masks. Tibbits says the 4D Knit Dress is a culmination of everything the students have learned from working with active textiles.

McKinlay helped produce the active yarns, created the concept design, developed the knitting technique, and programmed the lab’s industrial knitting machine. Once the garment design is programmed into the machine, it can quickly produce multiple dresses. Where the active yarns are placed in the design allows for the dress to take on a variety of styles such as pintucks, pleats, an empire waist, or a cinched waist.

“The styling is important,” McKinlay says. “Most people focus on the size, but I think styling is what sets clothes apart. We’re all evolving as people, and I think our style evolves as well. After fit, people focus on personal expression.”

Danny Griffin MArch ’22, a current graduate student in architectural design, doesn’t have a background in garment making or the fashion industry. Tibbits asked Griffin to join the team due to his experience with robotics projects in construction. Griffin translated the heat activation process into a programmable robotic procedure that would precisely control its application.

“When we apply heat, the fibers shorten, causing the textile to bunch up in a specific zone, effectively tightening the shape as if we’re tailoring the garment,” says Griffin. “There was a lot of trial and error to figure out how to orient the robot and the heat gun. The heat needs to be applied in precise locations to activate the fibers on each garment. Another challenge was setting the temperature and the timing for the heat to be applied.”

“We couldn’t use a commercial heat gun — which is like a handheld hair dryer — because they’re too large,” says Griffin. “We needed a more compact design. Once we figured it out, it was a lot of fun to write the script for the robot to follow.”

A dress can begin with one design — pintucks across the chest, for example — and be worn for months before having heat re-applied to alter its look. Subsequent applications of heat can tailor the dress further.

Beyond fit and fashion
Efficiently producing garments is a “big challenge” in the fashion industry, according to Gihan Amarasiriwardena ’11, the co-founder and president of Ministry of Supply.

“A lot of times you'll be guessing what a season's style is,” he says. “Sometimes the style doesn't do well, or some sizes don’t sell out. They may get discounted very heavily or eventually they end up going to a landfill.”

“Fast fashion” is a term that describes clothes that are inexpensive, trendy, and easily disposed of by the consumer. They are designed and produced quickly to keep pace with current trends. The 4D Knit Dress, says Tibbits, is the opposite of fast fashion. Unlike the traditional “cut-and-sew” process in the fashion industry, the 4D Knit Dress is made entirely in one piece, which virtually eliminates waste.

“From a global standpoint, you don’t have tons of excess inventory because the dress is customized to your size,” says Tibbits.

McKinlay says she hopes use of this new technology will reduce the amount of waste in inventory that retailers usually have at the end of each season.

“The dress could be tailored in order to adapt to these changes in styles and tastes,” she says. “It may also be able to absorb some of the size variations that retailers need to stock. Instead of extra-small, small, medium, large, and extra-large sizes, retailers may be able to have one dress for the smaller sizes and one for the larger sizes. Of course, these are the same sustainability points that would benefit the consumer.”

The Self-Assembly Lab has collaborated with Ministry of Supply on projects with active textiles for several years. Late last year, the team debuted the 4D Knit Dress at the company’s flagship store in Boston, complete with a robotic arm working its way around a dress as customers watched. For Amarasiriwardena, it was an opportunity to gauge interest and receive feedback from customers interested in trying the dress on.

“If the demand is there, this is something we can create quickly” unlike the usual design and manufacturing process, which can take years, says Amarasiriwardena.

Griffin and McKinlay were on hand for the demonstration and pleased with the results. For Griffin, with the “technical barriers” overcome, he sees many different avenues for the project.

“This experience leaves me wanting to try more,” he says.

McKinlay too would love to work on more styles.

“I hope this research project helps people rethink or reevaluate their relationship with clothes,” says McKinlay. “Right now when people purchase a piece of clothing it has only one ‘look.’ But, how exciting would it be to purchase one garment and reinvent it to change and evolve as you change or as the seasons or styles change? I'm hoping that's the takeaway that people will have.”

Source:

Maria Iacobo | Olivia Mintz | School of Architecture and Planning, MIT Department of Architecture

Co-friendly textiles without PFAS Image: Empa
22.04.2024

Co-friendly textiles without PFAS

Rain jackets, swimming trunks or upholstery fabrics: Textiles with water-repellent properties require chemical impregnation. Although fluorine-containing PFAS chemicals are effective, they are also harmful to human health and accumulate in the environment. Empa researchers are now developing a process with alternative substances that can be used to produce environmentally friendly water-repellent textile fibers. Initial analyses show: The "good" fibers repel water more effectively and dry faster than those of conventional products.

Rain jackets, swimming trunks or upholstery fabrics: Textiles with water-repellent properties require chemical impregnation. Although fluorine-containing PFAS chemicals are effective, they are also harmful to human health and accumulate in the environment. Empa researchers are now developing a process with alternative substances that can be used to produce environmentally friendly water-repellent textile fibers. Initial analyses show: The "good" fibers repel water more effectively and dry faster than those of conventional products.

If swimming trunks are to retain their shape after swimming and to dry quickly, they must combine two properties: They must be elastic and must not soak up water. Such a water-repellent effect can be achieved by treating the textiles with chemicals that give the elastic garment so-called hydrophobic properties. In the 1970s, new synthetic fluorine compounds began to be used for this purpose – compounds that seemed to offer countless application possibilities, but later turned out to be highly problematic. This is because these fluorocarbon compounds, PFAS for short, accumulate in the environment and are harmful to our health (see box). Empa researchers are therefore working with Swiss textile companies to develop alternative environmentally friendly processes that can be used to give fibers a water-repellent finish. Dirk Hegemann from Empa's Advanced Fibers laboratory in St. Gallen explains the Innosuisse-funded project: "We use so-called highly cross-linked siloxanes, which create silicone-like layers and – unlike fluorine-containing PFAS – are harmless."

Empa's plasma coating facilities range from handy table-top models to room-filling devices. For the coating of textile fibers, the siloxanes are atomized and activated in a reactive gas. They thereby retain their functional properties and enclose the textile fibers in a water-repellent coating that is only 30 nanometers thin. Fibers coated this way can then be processed into water-repellent textiles of all kinds, for example garments or technical textiles such as upholstery fabrics.

The advantage over conventional wet-chemical processes: Even with complex structured textiles, the seamless distribution of the hydrophobic substances is guaranteed right into all turns of the intertwined fibers. This is crucial, because even a tiny wettable spot would be enough for water to penetrate into the depths of a pair of swimming trunks, preventing the garment from drying quickly. "We have even succeeded in permanently impregnating more demanding, elastic fibers with the new process, which was previously not possible," says Hegemann.

Great interest from industry
In initial laboratory analyses, textiles made from the new fibers with an environmentally friendly coating are already performing slightly better than conventional PFAS-coated fabrics. They absorb less water and dry faster. However, the miraculous properties of the fluorine-free coating only really come into their own after the textiles have been washed several times: While the performance of conventional PFAS coatings in stretchy textiles declines considerably after repeated wash cycles, the fluorine-free fibers retain their water-repellent properties.

Hegemann and his team are now working on scaling up the fluorine-free laboratory process into efficient and economically viable industrial processes. "The industry is very interested in finding sustainable alternatives to PFAS," says Hegemann. The Swiss textile companies Lothos KLG, beag Bäumlin & Ernst AG and AG Cilander are already on board when it comes to developing environmentally friendly fluorine-free textiles. "This is a successful collaboration that combines materials, fiber technology and plasma coating and leads to an innovative, sustainable and effective solution," says Dominik Pregger from Lothos. And Bernd Schäfer, CEO of beag, adds: "The technology is environmentally friendly and also has interesting economic potential."

More information:
Empa PFAS Plasma Fibers
Source:

Dr. Andrea Six, EMPA

Empa researcher Simon Annaheim is working to develop a mattress for newborn babies. Image: Empa
11.03.2024

Medical textiles and sensors: Smart protection for delicate skin

Skin injuries caused by prolonged pressure often occur in people who are unable to change their position independently – such as sick newborns in hospitals or elderly people. Thanks to successful partnerships with industry and research, Empa scientists are now launching two smart solutions for pressure sores.

If too much pressure is applied to our skin over a long period of time, it becomes damaged. Populations at high risk of such pressure injuries include people in wheelchairs, newborns in intensive care units and the elderly. The consequences are wounds, infections and pain.

Skin injuries caused by prolonged pressure often occur in people who are unable to change their position independently – such as sick newborns in hospitals or elderly people. Thanks to successful partnerships with industry and research, Empa scientists are now launching two smart solutions for pressure sores.

If too much pressure is applied to our skin over a long period of time, it becomes damaged. Populations at high risk of such pressure injuries include people in wheelchairs, newborns in intensive care units and the elderly. The consequences are wounds, infections and pain.

Treatment is complex and expensive: Healthcare costs of around 300 million Swiss francs are incurred every year. "In addition, existing illnesses can be exacerbated by such pressure injuries," says Empa researcher Simon Annaheim from the Biomimetic Membranes and Textiles laboratory in St. Gallen. According to Annaheim, it would be more sustainable to prevent tissue damage from occurring in the first place. Two current research projects involving Empa researchers are now advancing solutions: A pressure-equalizing mattress for newborns in intensive care units and a textile sensor system for paraplegics and bedridden people are being developed.

Optimally nestled at the start of life
The demands of our skin are completely different depending on age: In adults, the friction of the skin on the lying surface, physical shear forces in the tissue and the lack of breathability of textiles are the main risk factors. In contrast, the skin of newborns receiving intensive care is extremely sensitive per se, and any loss of fluid and heat through the skin can become a problem. "While these particularly vulnerable babies are being nursed back to health, the lying situation should not cause any additional complications," says Annaheim. He thinks conventional mattresses are not appropriate for newborns with very different weights and various illnesses. Annaheim's team is therefore working with researchers from ETH Zurich, the Zurich University of Applied Sciences (ZHAW) and the University Children's Hospital Zurich to find an optimal lying surface for babies' delicate skin. This mattress should be able to adapt individually to the body in order to help children with a difficult start in life.

In order to do this, the researchers first determined the pressure conditions in the various regions of the newborn's body. "Our pressure sensors showed that the head, shoulders and lower spine are the areas with the greatest risk of pressure sores," says Annaheim. These findings were incorporated into the development of a special kind of air-filled mattress: With the help of pressure sensors and a microprocessor, its three chambers can be filled precisely via an electronic pump so that the pressure in the respective areas is minimized. An infrared laser process developed at Empa made it possible to produce the mattress from a flexible, multi-layered polymer membrane that is gentle on the skin and has no irritating seams.

After a multi-stage development process in the laboratory, the first small patients were allowed to lie on the prototype mattress. The effect was immediately noticeable when the researchers filled the mattress with air to varying degrees depending on the individual needs of the babies: Compared to a conventional foam mattress, the prototype reduced the pressure on the vulnerable parts of the body by up to 40 percent.

Following this successful pilot study, the prototype is now being optimized in the Empa labs. Simon Annaheim and doctoral student Tino Jucker will soon be starting a larger-scale study with the new mattress with the Department of Intensive Care Medicine & Neonatology at University Children's Hospital Zurich.

Intelligent sensors prevent injuries
In another project, Empa researchers are working on preventing so-called pressure ulcer tissue damage in adults. This involves converting the risk factors of pressure and circulatory disorders into helpful warning signals.

If you lie in the same position for a long time, pressure and circulatory problems lead to an undersupply of oxygen to the tissue. While the lack of oxygen triggers a reflex to move in healthy people, this neurological feedback loop can be disrupted in people with paraplegia or coma patients, for example. Here, smart sensors can help to provide early warning of the risk of tissue damage.

In the ProTex project, a team of researchers from Empa, the University of Bern, the OST University of Applied Sciences and Bischoff Textil AG in St. Gallen has developed a sensor system made of smart textiles with associated data analysis in real time. "The skin-compatible textile sensors contain two different functional polymer fibers," says Luciano Boesel from Empa's Biomimetic Membranes and Textiles laboratory in St. Gallen. In addition to pressure-sensitive fibers, the researchers integrated light-conducting polymer fibers (POFs), which are used to measure oxygen. "As soon as the oxygen content in the skin drops, the highly sensitive sensor system signals an increasing risk of tissue damage," explains Boesel. The data is then transmitted directly to the patient or to the nursing staff. This means, for instance, that a lying person can be repositioned in good time before the tissue is damaged.

Patented technology
The technology behind this also includes a novel microfluidic wet spinning process developed at Empa for the production of POFs. It allows precise control of the polymer components in the micrometer range and smoother, more environmentally friendly processing of the fibers. The microfluidic process is one of three patents that have emerged from the ProTex project to date.

Another product is a breathable textile sensor that is worn directly on the skin. The spin-off Sensawear in Bern, which emerged from the project in 2023, is currently pushing ahead with the market launch. Empa researcher Boesel is also convinced: "The findings and technologies from ProTex will enable further applications in the field of wearable sensor technology and smart clothing in the future."

Source:

Dr. Andrea Six, Empa

Researchers led by Bernd Nowack have investigated the release of nanoparticles during the washing of polyester textiles. Image: Empa Image: Empa
14.02.2024

Release of oligomers from polyester textiles

When nanoplastics are not what they seem ... Textiles made of synthetic fibers release micro- and nanoplastics during washing. Empa researchers have now been able to show: Some of the supposed nanoplastics do not actually consist of plastic particles, but of water-insoluble oligomers. The effects they have on humans and the environment are not yet well-understood.

Plastic household items and clothing made of synthetic fibers release microplastics: particles less than five millimetres in size that can enter the environment unnoticed. A small proportion of these particles are so small that they are measured in nanometers. Such nanoplastics are the subject of intensive research, as nanoplastic particles can be absorbed into the human body due to their small size – but, as of today, little is known about their potential toxicity.

When nanoplastics are not what they seem ... Textiles made of synthetic fibers release micro- and nanoplastics during washing. Empa researchers have now been able to show: Some of the supposed nanoplastics do not actually consist of plastic particles, but of water-insoluble oligomers. The effects they have on humans and the environment are not yet well-understood.

Plastic household items and clothing made of synthetic fibers release microplastics: particles less than five millimetres in size that can enter the environment unnoticed. A small proportion of these particles are so small that they are measured in nanometers. Such nanoplastics are the subject of intensive research, as nanoplastic particles can be absorbed into the human body due to their small size – but, as of today, little is known about their potential toxicity.

Empa researchers from Bernd Nowack's group in the Technology and Society laboratory have now joined forces with colleagues from China to take a closer look at nanoparticles released from textiles. Tong Yang, first author of the study, carried out the investigations during his doctorate at Empa. In earlier studies, Empa researchers were already able to demonstrate that both micro- and nanoplastics are released when polyester is washed. A detailed examination of the released nanoparticles released has now shown that not everything that appears to be nanoplastic at first glance actually is nanoplastic.

To a considerable extent, the released particles were in fact not nanoplastics, but clumps of so-called oligomers, i.e. small to medium-sized molecules that represent an intermediate stage between the long-chained polymers and their individual building blocks, the monomers. These molecules are even smaller than nanoplastic particles, and hardly anything is known about their toxicity either. The researchers published their findings in the journal Nature Water.

For the study, the researchers examined twelve different polyester fabrics, including microfiber, satin and jersey. The fabric samples were washed up to four times and the nanoparticles released in the process were analyzed and characterized. Not an easy task, says Bernd Nowack. "Plastic, especially nanoplastics, is everywhere, including on our devices and utensils," says the scientist. "When measuring nanoplastics, we have to take this 'background noise' into account."

Large proportion of soluble particles
The researchers used an ethanol bath to distinguish nanoplastics from clumps of oligomers. Plastic pieces, no matter how small, do not dissolve in ethanol, but aggregations of oligomers do. The result: Around a third to almost 90 percent of the nanoparticles released during washing could be dissolved in ethanol. "This allowed us to show that not everything that looks like nanoplastics at first glance is in fact nanoplastics," says Nowack.

It is not yet clear whether the release of so-called nanoparticulate oligomers during the washing of textiles has negative effects on humans and the environment. "With other plastics, studies have already shown that nanoparticulate oligomers are more toxic than nanoplastics," says Nowack. "This is an indication that this should be investigated more closely." However, the researchers were able to establish that the nature of the textile and the cutting method – scissors or laser – have no major influence on the quantity of particles released.

The mechanism of release has not been clarified yet either – neither for nanoplastics nor for the oligomer particles. The good news is that the amount of particles released decreases significantly with repeated washes. It is conceivable that the oligomer particles are created during the manufacturing of the textile or split off from the fibers through chemical processes during storage. Further studies are also required in this area.

Nowack and his team are focusing on larger particles for the time being: In their next project, they want to investigate which fibers are released during washing of textiles made from renewable raw materials and whether these could be harmful to the environment and health. "Semi-synthetic textiles such as viscose or lyocell are being touted as a replacement for polyester," says Nowack. "But we don't yet know whether they are really better when it comes to releasing fibers."

Source:

Empa

Photo: Sibi Suku, unsplash
29.01.2024

Naturalistic silk spun from artificial spider gland

Researchers led by Keiji Numata at the RIKEN Center for Sustainable Resource Science in Japan, along with colleagues from the RIKEN Pioneering Research Cluster, have succeeded in creating a device that spins artificial spider silk that closely matches what spiders naturally produce. The artificial silk gland was able to re-create the complex molecular structure of silk by mimicking the various chemical and physical changes that naturally occur in a spider’s silk gland. This eco-friendly innovation is a big step towards sustainability and could impact several industries. This study was published January 15 in the scientific journal Nature Communications.

Researchers led by Keiji Numata at the RIKEN Center for Sustainable Resource Science in Japan, along with colleagues from the RIKEN Pioneering Research Cluster, have succeeded in creating a device that spins artificial spider silk that closely matches what spiders naturally produce. The artificial silk gland was able to re-create the complex molecular structure of silk by mimicking the various chemical and physical changes that naturally occur in a spider’s silk gland. This eco-friendly innovation is a big step towards sustainability and could impact several industries. This study was published January 15 in the scientific journal Nature Communications.

Famous for its strength, flexibility, and light weight, spider silk has a tensile strength that is comparable to steel of the same diameter, and a strength to weight ratio that is unparalleled. Added to that, it’s biocompatible, meaning that it can be used in medical applications, as well as biodegradable. So why isn’t everything made from spider silk? Large-scale harvesting of silk from spiders has proven impractical for several reasons, leaving it up to scientists to develop a way to produce it in the laboratory.

Spider silk is a biopolymer fiber made from large proteins with highly repetitive sequences, called spidroins. Within the silk fibers are molecular substructures called beta sheets, which must be aligned properly for the silk fibers to have their unique mechanical properties. Re-creating this complex molecular architecture has confounded scientists for years. Rather than trying to devise the process from scratch, RIKEN scientists took a biomimicry approach. As Numata explains, “in this study, we attempted to mimic natural spider silk production using microfluidics, which involves the flow and manipulation of small amounts of fluids through narrow channels. Indeed, one could say that that the spider’s silk gland functions as a sort of natural microfluidic device.”

The device developed by the researchers looks like a small rectangular box with tiny channels grooved into it. Precursor spidroin solution is placed at one end and then pulled towards the other end by means of negative pressure. As the spidroins flow through the microfluidic channels, they are exposed to precise changes in the chemical and physical environment, which are made possible by the design of the microfluidic system. Under the correct conditions, the proteins self-assembled into silk fibers with their characteristic complex structure.

The researchers experimented to find these correct conditions, and eventually were able to optimize the interactions among the different regions of the microfluidic system. Among other things, they discovered that using force to push the proteins through did not work; only when they used negative pressure to pull the spidroin solution could continuous silk fibers with the correct telltale alignment of beta sheets be assembled.

“It was surprising how robust the microfluidic system was, once the different conditions were established and optimized,” says Senior Scientist Ali Malay, one of the paper’s co-authors. “Fiber assembly was spontaneous, extremely rapid, and highly reproducible. Importantly, the fibers exhibited the distinct hierarchical structure that is found in natural silk fiber.”

The ability to artificially produce silk fibers using this method could provide numerous benefits. Not only could it help reduce the negative impact that current textile manufacturing has on the environment, but the biodegradable and biocompatible nature of spider silk makes it ideal for biomedical applications, such as sutures and artificial ligaments.

“Ideally, we want to have a real-world impact,” says Numata. “For this to occur, we will need to scale-up our fiber-production methodology and make it a continuous process. We will also evaluate the quality of our artificial spider silk using several metrics and make further improvements from there.”

Source:

RIKEN Center for Sustainable Resource Science, Japan