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05.09.2023

Ananas Anam and TENCEL™ collaborate with Calvin Klein

The search for better, planet-friendly footwear material reveals a solution in one unlikely ingredient: pineapple leaves. This unique textile ingredient is the recent focus of the latest footwear design collaboration between Ananas Anam, TENCEL™ and Calvin Klein, launching Calvin Klein’s first-ever trainer featuring a knitted upper made of PIÑAYARN® blended with TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers.

Known as “The Sustainable Knit Trainer”, the trainers are a timeless closet staple, available in classic colors such as black and off-white and etched with the signature Calvin Klein logo. The PIÑAYARN® knit upper, made of 70% TENCEL™ Lyocell and 30% Anam PALF™ pineapple leaf fiber, is both from botanic origin and bio-based.

The search for better, planet-friendly footwear material reveals a solution in one unlikely ingredient: pineapple leaves. This unique textile ingredient is the recent focus of the latest footwear design collaboration between Ananas Anam, TENCEL™ and Calvin Klein, launching Calvin Klein’s first-ever trainer featuring a knitted upper made of PIÑAYARN® blended with TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers.

Known as “The Sustainable Knit Trainer”, the trainers are a timeless closet staple, available in classic colors such as black and off-white and etched with the signature Calvin Klein logo. The PIÑAYARN® knit upper, made of 70% TENCEL™ Lyocell and 30% Anam PALF™ pineapple leaf fiber, is both from botanic origin and bio-based.

As the fashion sector has begun to realize the negative environmental effects of synthetic materials, a lot of brands have turned towards plant-based materials such as PIÑAYARN®. Using a low-impact manufacturing process, PIÑAYARN® is derived from pineapple leaf waste and involves a water-free spinning process. The addition of TENCEL™ Lyocell, a fiber made from wood pulp obtained from responsibly managed forests and produced using a solvent spinning process that recycles both the solvent and water at a recovery rate of more than 99%, offers full traceability of the TENCEL™ fiber in the final blended yarn.

Melissa Braithwaite, PIÑAYARN® Product Development Manager at Ananas Anam said “The inspiration for PIÑAYARN® came from the need to provide the textile industry with an alternative to overused, often polluting, conventional fibers, such as cotton or polyester. We have an abundance of available raw material within our business, and broadening our product offering means we can valorize more waste, increasing our positive impact on the environment and society.”

Indeed, as the consumer demand for more eco-responsible textile products and footwear grows, so too has the popularity of wood-based fibers as a material alternative. Ananas Anam and TENCEL™’s collaboration with Calvin Klein has been a success in that the physical characteristics and planet-conscious benefits of both PIÑAYARN® and TENCEL™ fibers complement each other perfectly, creating a blended material that is soft and usable for various woven and knitted applications.

For material developers like Ananas Anam seeking the ideal fiber blend partner to create PIÑAYARN®, TENCEL™ Lyocellfibers are celebrated for their versatility and ability to be blended with a wide range of textiles such as hemp, linen and of course Anam PALF™ pineapple leaf fiber, to enhance the aesthetics, performance and functionality of fabrics. Additionally, beyond being used in shoe uppers, TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers can be used in every part of the shoe including the upper fabric, lining, insoles, padding, laces, zipper and sewing thread. TENCEL™ Lyocell can also be used in powder form for use in the outsoles of shoes.

“We are extremely excited about this collaboration with Ananas Anam for the launch of The Sustainable Knit Trainer by Calvin Klein, an eco-responsible and planet-friendly shoe for conscious consumers. This partnership is the perfect example of our commitment to provide education and expertise to support anyone who chooses to improve the environmental and social credentials of their products by using more responsible materials,” said Nicole Schram, Global Business Development Manager at Lenzing.

Source:

Lenzing AG

Photo unsplash
21.02.2023

Consortium for enzymatic textile recycling gains new supporters

"Shared vision of a true circular economy for the textile industry"

US fashion group PVH has joined the fibre-to-fibre consortium founded by Carbios, On, Patagonia, PUMA and Salomon. The aim is to support the further development of Carbios' biorecycling process on an industrial scale, setting new global standards for textile recycling technologies. PVH owns brands such as Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. In the agreement signed by PVH Corp, the company commits to accelerating the textile industry's transition to a circular economy through its participation in the consortium.

Carbios is working with On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon to test and improve its bio-recycling technology on their products. The aim is to demonstrate that this process closes the fibre-to-fibre loop on an industrial scale, in line with sustainability commitments.

"Shared vision of a true circular economy for the textile industry"

US fashion group PVH has joined the fibre-to-fibre consortium founded by Carbios, On, Patagonia, PUMA and Salomon. The aim is to support the further development of Carbios' biorecycling process on an industrial scale, setting new global standards for textile recycling technologies. PVH owns brands such as Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. In the agreement signed by PVH Corp, the company commits to accelerating the textile industry's transition to a circular economy through its participation in the consortium.

Carbios is working with On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon to test and improve its bio-recycling technology on their products. The aim is to demonstrate that this process closes the fibre-to-fibre loop on an industrial scale, in line with sustainability commitments.

The two-year cooperation project will not only enable the biological recycling of polyester articles on an industrial scale, but also develop thorough sorting and disassembly technologies for complex textile waste. Existing members voted unanimously for PVH Corp. to join the consortium, saying the common goal is to support the development of viable solutions that address the fashion industry's contribution to climate change..

Carbios has developed a technology using highly selective enzymes that can recycle mixed feedstocks, reducing the laborious sorting required by current thermomechanical recycling processes. For textiles made from blended fibres, the patented enzyme acts only on the PET polyester contained within. This innovative process produces recycled PET (r-PET) that is equivalent in quality to virgin PET and can be used to produce new textile fibres.

Textile waste treatment and recycling
Globally, only 13% of textile waste is currently recycled, mainly for low-value applications such as upholstery, insulation or rags. The remaining 87% is destined for landfill or incineration. To work on improving textile recycling technologies, consortium members will supply feedstock in the form of clothing, underwear, footwear and sportswear. In 2023, a new PET textile waste facility will be commissioned at the Carbios demonstration plant, notably as part of the LIFE Cycle of PET project co-funded by the European Union.  This is in anticipation of future regulations, such as the separate collection of textile waste, which will be mandatory in Europe from 1 January 2025.

From fibre to fibre: circularity of textiles
Today, the textile industry relies largely on non-renewable resources to produce fibres and fabrics, partly turning to recycled PET bottles for recycled polyester fibres. However, this resource will become scarce as PET bottles are used exclusively for the production of new bottles in the food and beverage industry. In a circular economy, the materials used to produce textiles are obtained from recycled or renewable raw materials produced by regenerative processes. In addition to supplying raw materials for the demonstration plant, the consortium members also aim to produce new products from r-PET fibres using the company's biorecycling process.

"Partnering with Carbios and its consortium members demonstrates our continued commitment to incorporating more circular materials into our collections," said Esther Verburg, EVP, Sustainable Business and Innovation, Tommy Hilfiger Global and PVH Europe. "We are excited to support the development of Carbios' enzymatic recycling technology and to leverage new solutions that can help us drive fashion sustainably."

More information:
Carbios textile recycling enzymatic
Source:

Carbios / Textination

PIXABAY
27.11.2018

EGYPT'S TEXTILE AND CLOTHING SECTOR FACING MODERNIZATION

  • State enterprises get better equipment

Cairo (GTAI) - The Egyptian government plans to modernize the textile sector and private companies are investing in new locations. Increasing machine imports and clothing exports are expected.

In the Egyptian textile and clothing industry, the signs are pointing to expansion and modernization. Local media reported on a number of private and public investment projects. According to the newspaper Al Gomhouria, a Chinese producer in the Suez Canal economic zone is planning the world's largest textile factory for USD 6 billion. The Chinese companies TIDA and Shoon Dong Roy want to build a clothing factory for 800 million USD. Sino-Egypt Minkai is planning to build a textile industry complex for around USD 750 million.

  • State enterprises get better equipment

Cairo (GTAI) - The Egyptian government plans to modernize the textile sector and private companies are investing in new locations. Increasing machine imports and clothing exports are expected.

In the Egyptian textile and clothing industry, the signs are pointing to expansion and modernization. Local media reported on a number of private and public investment projects. According to the newspaper Al Gomhouria, a Chinese producer in the Suez Canal economic zone is planning the world's largest textile factory for USD 6 billion. The Chinese companies TIDA and Shoon Dong Roy want to build a clothing factory for 800 million USD. Sino-Egypt Minkai is planning to build a textile industry complex for around USD 750 million.

The Egyptian state also wants to strengthen the textile and clothing production. In November 2018, the Minister of State Enterprise Hisham Tawfiq negotiated an extensive restructuring of the Cotton & Textile Holding Company with Werner International of the USA. According to press reports, the properties of 14 of the 25 cotton ginning plants should be sold. The ministry estimates the value at USD 1.5 billion. This appropriation is intended to cover the repair of machinery and the import of new equipment for the eleven remaining companies.

A free zone for textile production will also be created in Minya on the initiative of the state. This industrial zone is to be built on an area of 2.2 million square metres: The General Authority for Free Zones and Investment intends to launch the project before the end of 2018.

In autumn 2018, the Cotton & Textiles Industries Holding Company and Marubeni of Japan signed a letter of intent. This relates to the construction of a new textile factory in Kafr El Sheikh. A reduced loan from the Japan Bank for International Cooperation secures the financing of the project.

Import demand for textile and clothing machinery expected to increase
The planned projects are expected to lead to a further increase of a demand of imports. Like other types of equipment, the vast majority of textile and clothing machinery is imported into Egypt. In 2017 the German share of deliveries fell by 8.4 percentage points to an year-on-year comparison to 12 percent. However, this reduction is put into a perspective by the fact that the reference year 2016 was a positive outlier. In 2015, the German share was still 15.8 percent.

Imports of textile and clothing machinery to Egypt (in USD 1,000)
HS-Category 2016 Therof from Germany 2017 Therof from Germany
8444 4,481 2,025 5,554 n.v.
8445 26,105 5,429 32,660 4,807
8446 23,591 13,346 26,170 4,493
8447 15,713 3,052 22,032 4,493
8448 20.574 3,365 18,013 2,698
8449 299 0 1,725 0.4
8451 36,512 2,334 37,887 3,511
8452 23,186 1,698 29,633 1,309
8453 3,678 137 9,892 155
Total 154,139 31,386 183,566 22,028.4

n.a. = not available
Source: Comtrade

Egyptian textile and clothing companies often produce with a lot of manual work and partly with very outdated machines. The government's aim is to create as many jobs as possible due to the continued population growth. On the other hand, a more automated and modern production would allow more complex products. These could be sold at a higher profit, but would also require less human labor.

Important role of the sector companies for the Egyptian economy
The textile and clothing companies in Egypt represent a significant and labor-intensive industry. Local and imported fibers are being processed in the country and there is a broad base of spinning mills, weaving mills, dyeing houses and manufacturers of clothing and home textiles. It is estimated that the companies employ between 1 million and 1.2 million people. A regional focus is Mahala El Kubra. State enterprises are strongly represented in the textile sector, while the private sector plays a greater role in the clothing sector. About 90 percent of the spinning and weaving mills are state-owned.

According to the Readymade Garments Export Council (RMGEC), the garment industry accounts for 3 percent of the country's gross domestic product, 15 percent of exports (excluding oil), and one of three industrial jobs in the country. From January to the end of August 2018, clothing exports to the RMGEC totaled USD 1,040 million. In the same period of 2017, exports amounted to only US$ 980 million.

Egyptian exports of textiles and clothing (selection; in USD million;
change in %)
HS-Category 2016 2017 Change 2017 / 2016
57 303.5 313.9 3.4
60 35.7 44.3 24.1
61 388.0 466.0 20.1
62 756.6 910.7 20.4
63 227.2 231.1 1.7
Total 1,711.0 1,966.0 14.9

Source: UN Comtrade

The Qualified Industrial Zones (QIZ) play a special role. These are special zones with Israeli added value, which are fixed during production, and the products enjoy customs advantages when exported to the USA. Since 2005, the QIZ system has provided more private investments in the garment sector. Jeans and other clothing for well-known brands are delivered to the USA from the 25 zones.
Egyptian manufacturers are also generally not always recognizable as such, as they often manufacture for major international brands. Middle East Eye names Calvin Klein, Decathlon, Tommy Hilfiger and Zara as examples. In November 2017 Dice Sport and Casual Wear agreed to supply Levi Strauss & Co. with children's clothing.

The US company Disney even purchases 33 types of products from Egypt. Since 2017, Egypt has been cooperating with the International Labor Organization ILO as part of the Better Work Program. Working conditions are to be improved in 30 clothing factories. According to media reports, for Disney these measures were a reason to extend the licenses of the Egyptian suppliers until December 2019.

Currency effect improves competitiveness
The labor-intensive production benefited from the currency devaluation in 2016. According to a report by the news portal Middle East Eye, Egypt has at least 100 USD monthly salary for workers and is about at the same level as India or Bangladesh and at about 50 of percent Chinese salaries. In addition, prompt and fast deliveries to Europe and the USA are possible.

On the other hand, the companies are dependent on foreign supplies, which became more expensive. In Egypt especially soft and high-quality long staple cotton is cultivated and exported. Domestic producers, on the other hand, mainly use short-staple cotton and other foreign fibers as raw materials. The RMGEC complained about rising production costs in October 2018. Wages, electricity, water, natural gas, transports and more expensive imports of raw materials contributed to this development.


Further information on Egypt can be found at http://www.gtai.de

 

More information:
GTAI Ägypten
Source:

Oliver Idem, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

30.01.2018

TEXTILE AND CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS INVEST IN EGYPT

  • Chinese companies are planning several major projects
  • Germany is supplying more textile and clothing machinery

Several Egyptian and Chinese companies have announced some heavy manufacturing investments in textiles and clothing. The government is committed to creating new production priorities for textiles and wants to increase added value. Labor-intensive industries benefit from the low value of the Egyptian pound for their exports. For textile and clothing machinery, Germany achieved a delivery share of around 20 percent in 2016. In the Egyptian textile and clothing industry, the signs point to expansion and modernization. Local media reported on a series of investment plans by Chinese and Egyptian companies. According to the newspaper Al Gomhouria, a Chinese producer is planning the world's largest textile factory for USD 6 billion in the economic zone on the Suez Canal.

  • Chinese companies are planning several major projects
  • Germany is supplying more textile and clothing machinery

Several Egyptian and Chinese companies have announced some heavy manufacturing investments in textiles and clothing. The government is committed to creating new production priorities for textiles and wants to increase added value. Labor-intensive industries benefit from the low value of the Egyptian pound for their exports. For textile and clothing machinery, Germany achieved a delivery share of around 20 percent in 2016. In the Egyptian textile and clothing industry, the signs point to expansion and modernization. Local media reported on a series of investment plans by Chinese and Egyptian companies. According to the newspaper Al Gomhouria, a Chinese producer is planning the world's largest textile factory for USD 6 billion in the economic zone on the Suez Canal. The Chinese companies TIDA and Shoon Dong Roy want to build a clothing factory for USD 800 million. Sino-Egypt Minkai plans to build a textile industry complex for around USD 750 million. The local paper and stationery manufacturer Mintra plans to start the production of sports shoes with an initial investment of USD 50 million. Manufacturing in the 10th of Ramadan City is scheduled to begin in mid-2018, serving both the domestic and overseas markets. Egypt is still importing about 85 percent of the shoes sold in the country.
Oriental Weavers plans to purchase new production lines, machinery and equipment in 2018. For this purpose, EUR 6 million are to be invested. According to the newspaper Al Shorouk, the expansion will be financed by a bank loan.

State relies on new textile cities and more value added
The Egyptian state also wants to strengthen textile and clothing production. The Ministry of Investment and International Cooperation, the Supreme Council for Textile Industries and an unnamed Chinese partner want to set up a free zone for textile production in Minya. The ministry plans to provide part of the funding through international institutions and create specialized training programs for workers. According to media reports, the project value should be at USD 324 million.

In early 2017 the Egyptian Ministry of Industry announced that it would set up new textile production centers at a total of ten locations. In particular, spinning mills and weaving mills are in the spotlight. This perspective is shared by the Ministry of the Public Sector. It is aimed primarily at increasing value adding and therefore carried out a study in 2017.

Import demand for textile and clothing machinery is expected to increase
Egyptian textile and clothing companies often produce with a lot of manual work and partly outdated machines. On the one hand, the government is keen to ensure that as many jobs as possible are created for the approximately 800,000 young people who enter the market each year. On the other hand, a more automated and modern production of textiles and clothing would enable more complex products. These could be sold at a higher profit, but may also require less human labor.

An Indian company has secured a contract to modernize cotton processing. In compliance with a framework agreement with the Cotton and Textile Industries Holding, Bajaj Clothing automates cotton ginning systems. A total of eleven companies in different parts of the country will be equipped with the new machinery until August 2018. In late December 2017, Egypt Today announced that the government wants to modernize the spinning and weaving mills in Northern Egypt. The investment volume will amount to a total of one billion Euro over a period of five years.

The newly announced projects are expected to increase the demand of import machinery in the near future. Like other types of equipment, the vast majority of textile and clothing machinery will be imported into Egypt. Deliveries from Germany were able to improve both in absolute terms and relatively in 2016, despite an overall shrinking of the volume of imports. The German supply share jumped from 15.8 to 20.4 percent compared to 2015.

Import of textile and clothing machinery into Egypt (in USD  1,000)
HS Category 2015 thereof from Germany 2016 thereof from Germany
8444 1,135 0 4,481 2,025
8445 34,550 10,653 26,105 5,429
8446 18,902 984 23,591 13,346
8447 26,040 5,940 15,713 3,052
8448 23,39 5,158 20,574 3,365
8449 440 0 299 0
8451 34,796 3,335 36,512 2,334
8452 30,456 1,264 23,186 1,698
8453 3,087 5 3,678 137
Summe 173,145 27,339 154,139 31,386

Source: UN Comtrade

The consequences of the release of the Egyptian pound in November 2016 will mainly benefit labor-intensive industries and those that are processing mainly local raw materials. After October 2016, the value of the EURO soared from just under 9 to 21 Egyptian pounds and has stabilized at this level. According to various figures the textile and clothing companies in the country employs between 1.0 and 1.2 million workers. It is reported that state-owned enterprises are strongly represented in the textile sector, while the private sector plays a greater role in the clothing sector.

The advantage is dampened by the import requirements for cotton. In Egypt, especially soft and high-quality long-staple cotton is grown and exported. By contrast, domestic textile and clothing companies mainly use short-staple cotton from abroad as a raw material. Their import as become more expensive due to the currency developments. Nevertheless the competitiveness of Egypt's textile and clothing exporters has improved as a result of the new foreign exchange situation. Their exports should have developed better in 2017 than at the peak of the currency liquidity crisis in the previous year. At that time, exports fell by12.6 percent to around USD 1.7 billion.

Egyptian exports of textiles and clothing
(Selection, in USD millions, Change in %)
HS Category 2015 2016 Change 2016/2015
57 339.8 303.5 -10.7
60 2.0 35.7 1,685.0
61 483.6 388.0 -19.9
62 870.4 756.6 -13.1
63 262.2 227.2 -13.3
Summe 1,958.0 1,711.0 -12.6

Source: UN Comtrade

Increasing labor costs at Asian production sites, long transport routes and sometimes dissatisfaction with the product quality make some customers look for new sources of supply for textile and clothing products. According to a report by the news portal Middle East Eye, Egypt lies at least with USD 100 as a monthly salary for workers roughly equivalent on a level with India or Bangladesh and about half of Chinese salaries. In addition, the country at the Suez Canal is capable of fast deliveries to Europe and the United States. Regional competitors include Turkey and Tunisia. Egyptian manufacturers are not always recognizable as such, as they often manufacture for major international brands. Middle East Eye names Calvin Klein, Decathlon, Tommy Hilfiger and Zara as examples. In November 2017, Dice Sport and Casual Wear agreed to supply Levi Strauss & Co. with children's clothing.

Since 2017, Egypt became part of the Better Work Program of the International Labor Organization. The program includes 30 apparel factories in which the working conditions should be improved. Such confirmations could then give Egyptian products competitive advantages in export. However, to stand up to the tough international price warfare and at the same time to meet by the customers expected production standards will be a challenge.

12.12.2017

ETHIOPIA FOCUSES ON CLOTHING AND TEXTILE EXPORTS

  • Industrial parks should enable a quantum leap
  • Progress in infrastructure, Deficits in foreign exchange provision

The Ethiopian textile, clothing and leather industry scores not only with comparatively low wages and high-performing personnel, but also with modern industrial parks. In the meantime the technology has to be fully imported and the supply of materials needs to be greatly expanded. There is a great progress in logistics, but unfortunately not in foreign exchange procurement. German suppliers of relevant equipment should definitely consider Ethiopia in their acquisition.

  • Industrial parks should enable a quantum leap
  • Progress in infrastructure, Deficits in foreign exchange provision

The Ethiopian textile, clothing and leather industry scores not only with comparatively low wages and high-performing personnel, but also with modern industrial parks. In the meantime the technology has to be fully imported and the supply of materials needs to be greatly expanded. There is a great progress in logistics, but unfortunately not in foreign exchange procurement. German suppliers of relevant equipment should definitely consider Ethiopia in their acquisition.

So far, only Mauritius has made a name for itself as a producer of high-quality clothing south of the Sahara. Attempts to locate textile and clothing companies in Namibia and Lesotho in a larger style have not been very successful. Meanwhile Kenya and Ghana have far too expensive production conditions. "Clothing companies are nomadic,” says a consultant, who is specializing in the trade, "they go where it's cheapest for them."

Meanwhile, Ethiopia offers several advantages: Wages and additional costs are far below the Chinese ones. A worker in the Ethiopian factories earns an average of USD 909 a year, according to a survey by the US Center for Global Development, compared to USD 835 in Bangladesh, USD 1,776 in Tanzania, and USD 2,118 in Kenya. Another advantage is appreciated by employees: Ethiopia has a long tradition of textile and clothing production as well as in leather processing and thus at least an expandable base of skilled workers.

The supply of native cotton and leather meanwhile is considered strongly expandable. In times of drought, such as in 2016 and partly in 2017, the supply of cotton is insufficient. However, the government is cooperative and increasingly open to the needs of producers. Thus, the infrastructure has been currently sustainably improved, in particular the transport routes to the seaport Djibouti, from where Europe is much faster to reach than from the Far East. In addition, the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa has a capable aviation hub with a dozen direct flights to the EU, including Frankfurt and Vienna. There is also a modern air freight center.

Modern industrial parks as a game changer

Just as important as the delivery routes are the "modern" production conditions in the emerging industrial centers all over the country, Made by China: pothole-free roads, guaranteed electricity and water supply, proper waste and wastewater disposal, workers' settlements in the vicinity. From the Ethiopian point of view, a great many jobs are created, families are fed and foreign exchange is earned.

According to its government, Ethiopia is in a transformation process away from an agrarian economy and towards an industrialized state. By 2025, the country should reach a "middle-income status" and become the largest industrial production hub in Africa. To achieve this, Ethiopia is investing heavily in roads, railways and power generation, in health and education, in urban and rural development, and in the creation of industrial clusters.

Ambitious export specifications

In July 2016 the Hawassa Industrial Park was officially opened, dedicated to the export of textiles and clothing, and is the largest industrial park in sub-Saharan Africa. As early as 2018, the park is expected to employ 60,000 workers and generate USD 1 billion in exports of clothing and textiles - a steep target given in a view of the current export figures. As early as 2030, Ethiopia wants to reach a total of USD 30 billion by exporting textiles and clothing - but it's still a long way off. At present, 15 in-ternational companies are already investing in Hawassa, including the US PVH Corporation (formerly Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation, prominent brands: Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfinger) and Epic Group (Hong Kong), a supplier of, among others, Walmart , JC Penny, Levi Strauss, VF Corporation, Tesco, Sansbury's, Marks & Spencer and C & A. Epic wanted to go to Kenya first, but then decided for Ethiopia at the last minute, which, according to Epic boss Ranjan Mahtani, is "still unpolished," but has the most potential.

The challenges are considered to be high: "Our seam-stresses have never got a job before and have never seen a sewing machine," Mahtani says training therefore is a top priority. At the same time, however, his company also relies on state-of-the-art automatic machines, for example for attaching bags. The production halls are also all around computerized with RFID technology. The current efficiency Mahtani estimates at 25 to 30 percent. After experience with other production sites, results of 75 to 80 percent are possible after about ten years.

Wide range of new industrial parks under construction

In July 2017, another industrial park was opened in Kombolcha City. A whole range of other parks are in various stages of realization and all are focused on the apparel, textile, pharmaceutical and medical device manufacturing sectors. According to the Ethiopian Government, there is no shortage of interested investors from the PR of China, India, Turkey, the US, Hong Kong and South Korea. Ethiopia benefits from the African Growth and Opportunity Act of the United States, which, for example, reduces its import duties by 16.8 per cent on cotton pants and 30 per cent on synthetic shirts. In addition, Ethiopia has a duty-free access to the EU market under the Everything-but-Arms initiative.

Ethiopian exports of textiles, clothing and leather goods (including shoes), in USD mio
SITC- product group 2014 2015 2016
61 Leather and leather goods  97.51 98.20 78.63
65 Yarn, fabrics finished textiles and re-lated products 39.34 39.12 29.61
84 Clothing and clothing accessories 55.53 77.94 68.25
85 Shoes   33.88 37.69 43.80
Total      226.26 252.95 220.29

Source: Comtrade, as of 18 October 2017

Ethiopian imports of machinery and equipment for the textile and leather industry and parts thereof (SITC 724, in USD mio, change in%)
Supplying country 2014 2015 2016
Total      131.30

170.51

111.10
PR China 43.87 42.40 62.07
Italy 6.38 11.75 11.72
Japan 4.40 10.11 6.89
Turkey 4.86 19.14 4.92
other Asian countries, not specified 1.85 1.87 4.11
India 6.07 6.49 3.06
Germany 9.22 9.08 2.44

Note: The import figures mentioned above are based on Ethiopian data, which for various reasons are not considered particularly reliable. Equally not reliable are often the relevant export data of the partner countries, because all sea transports go via Djibouti and deliveries statistically are recorded often as exports to Djibouti.
Source: UN Comtrade, as of 18 October 2017

German exports expandable

German exporters of technology for the textile, clothing and leather industries are not yet well positioned in Ethiopia. According to the preliminary figures of the Federal Statistical Office (SITCM 724), in 2016 only EUR 1.06 mio of relevant technology went to Ethiopia, compared to EUR 1.05 mio in the previous year and EUR 5.02 mio in 2015.

More information:
Ethiopia Export Textilindustrie
Source:

Martin Böll, Nairobi (GTAI)

Egypt’s Textile Manufacturers invest even in Hard Times © Rainer Sturm/ pixelio.de
19.04.2016

EGYPT’S TEXTILE MANUFACTURERS INVEST EVEN IN HARD TIMES

  • Competition requires Modernization
  • Declining Exports due to Energy Shortage and Lack of foreign Currency

Cairo (gtai) – Egypt’s vertically integrated textile and clothing industry has a strong basis. To remain competitive more modern equipment and innovative products are required. Also the cooperation with local suppliers is upgradeable. The government is planning two new textile industrial zones. The import of textile and leather machinery in the first three quarters of 2015 reached USD 135 million. Of this 17% were Ger man deliveries.

  • Competition requires Modernization
  • Declining Exports due to Energy Shortage and Lack of foreign Currency

Cairo (gtai) – Egypt’s vertically integrated textile and clothing industry has a strong basis. To remain competitive more modern equipment and innovative products are required. Also the cooperation with local suppliers is upgradeable. The government is planning two new textile industrial zones. The import of textile and leather machinery in the first three quarters of 2015 reached USD 135 million. Of this 17% were Ger man deliveries.

The situation of the textile and clothing industry in Egypt provides ample material for both optimists and for doomsayer. Technical modernization of the mills and a focus on products with higher added value offer opportunities. Potential also has a better link between the production stages. These would include installation for spinning, weaving and laundries for denim. As upgradeable product groups like underwear, high quality knitwear and fabrics can be seen. With such the benefits of Egypt could be better accentuated. These include the favorable geographical location, the proximity to major markets and a variety of trade agreements. According to the American Chamber of Commerce Egyptian manufacturers already provide clothing for international brands such as Calvin Klein, Disney, Gap, Timberland and Zara.

The chances however are being opposed by a number of difficulties. Also the textile and clothing sector was hit by the energy crisis and the lack of foreign exchange. Many companies have a limited level of liquidity. Research and development were neglected for years, although there are positive examples of innovative companies also. Many producers were forced to close in recent years. Due to the risks in the sector banks are very reluctant in lending money.

Especially needed would be modern technology and product innovations in the face of the strong competitive pressures from abroad. The comparatively low level of wages in Egypt is higher than at Asian competitors. This lets rise problems in terms of export opportunities, also with regard to the domestic market. Here imported goods cover ground, especially since Egyptian manufacturers have raised their prices in recent years. As intensifier act the high exchange rate of the Egyptian pound and the inflation rate of around permanently 10%.    

The cost pressure makes it difficult for the mills to attract high-skilled workers, which is also reflected in a high fluctuation. Several times since 2008 strikes have paralyzed the production. Industry experts complain about a poor education level and lack of efficiency. As a countermeasure the companies organize courses for their employees.

The local cultivation of cotton does not cover the demand of the textile manufacturers

Despite cotton is grown in Egypt on a large scale, the varieties do not fit the needs of most local spinning mills. The country is famous for its high-quality, soft and durable long-staple cotton, while the factories prefer and demand now short and medium staple cotton qualities. The exports are facing a strong competition from the US Pima cotton quality. The Egyptian textile and garment companies mostly import in contrast their material especially from Greece, the United States, Burkina Faso and Benin. As a result, the high-quality raw cotton is exported and not value adding intensively processed domestically, while scarce foreign exchange flows in the import of foreign cotton.

Unrest in the sector is provided by short-term legislative changes. Thus the import of cotton was prohibited in summer of 2015, however allowed again after one week. Domestic cotton farmers are particularly affected by the reduction of subsidies, which concerns the cultivation itself and the needed fertilizers. Many farmers change to other crops, because cotton does not pay anymore and high inventories have accrued.

Egypt has a vertically integrated textile and clothing industry. It represents about 25% of the industrial production of the country and also provides a quarter of all manufacturing jobs. The largest product group is clothing, also fabrics and filament fiber and yarn play an important role. Approximately 50 to 60% of the spinning, weaving and felt capacities are state owned, while private companies dominate for 90% the garment production. The regional main textile areas are greater Cairo, the Nile Delta and Alexandria. In February 2015 the General Authority for Investment and Free Zones counted 4,594 textile and apparel companies with total investments of nearly USD 6 billion. Of this 4,399 companies where located in normal domestic areas, 196 in special free zones.

Big textile and clothing manufacturers in Egypt (selection)
Name      Internet address
Abo El Sebaa Weaving Company http://abo-elsebaa.com
Al-Arafa Investment and Consulting http://arafaholding.com  
Alexandria Spinning & Weaving Co. (SPINALEX) http://spinalex.com  
Chourbagi Moderne for Clothing and Textiles S.A.E. "Charmaine" http://www.charmaine.com.eg
Egyptian Spinning & Weaving Company (ESW)   http://egyptianspinning.com  
El-Nasr Clothes and Textiles (KABO) http://www.kabo.com.eg
Misr Spinning and Weaving (El Mahala el Kobra)    http://www.misrhelwantextile.com
Oriental Weavers http://www.orientalweavers.com

Quellen: Invest in Egypt, Research of Germany Trade & Invest

Weaker export results for textiles and clothing in 2015

With a volume of at last nearly USD 2.7 billion in 2014, textiles and clothing were the fourth most important export goods of Egypt. Based on the first nine months of 2015 however, weaker annual results than in 2014 are expected. The by far biggest target markets are still the EU and the USA.

Egyptian exports of textiles and clothing (HS 52, 54, 55, 57 and 60-63;
in USD million)
2013 2014 2015
2,843 2,695 1,848

*) January – end of September
Sources: UN Comtrade

Against all odds, the Egyptian textile and clothing companies are about to invest in their facilities. ESW announced in September 2015 to provide eight subsidiaries with approximately USD 19 million for reactivated and new production lines. The Czech Pegas Nonwoven Co. has ordered another manufacturing facility for its Egyptian plant. The imports of textile and leather machines from Germany are more stable than the total imports. After the results of the first three quarters, it is clear that German deliveries in 2015 will be higher than in 2014.

Import of textile and leather machinery to Egypt (HS 8444-49 and 8451-53 HS; in USD million)
Country 2013 2014 2015
Imports total 203.6 151.6 135.0
from Germany 27.2 22.3 22.9

*) January – end of September
Sources: UN Comtrade

The Egyptian government has announced to build two industrial zones for textiles in Borg El Arab and the 6th of October City near Cairo. In August 2015 the Chinese Gondong Group had first talks about a possible investment in Egypt.

Internet addresses

Cotton Research Institute
Internet: http://www.arc.sci.eg
Egyptian Textile Development Association
Internet: http://www.etda-egypt.org
Egy Stitch & Tex (internationale Ausstellung in Kairo)
Internet: http://www.egystitchandtex.com
Industrial Development Authority
Internet: http://www.ida.gov.eg
Industrial Modernisation Centre
Internet: http://www.imc-egypt.org
Industrial Union of Garments - Chamber of Textiles Industries
(im Dachverband Federation of Egyptian Industries)
Internet: http://www.fei.org.eg
Home Textile Export Council
Internet: http://www.egyptianhometextiles.org
National Research Center (mit Textile Industries Division)
Internet: http://www.nrc.sci.eg
Ready Made Garments Export Council
Internet: http://www.rmgec-egypt.com
Textile Export Council
Internet: http://www.textile-egypt.org