From the Sector

The study "Technologies, Markets and Players" by E-Textiles 2018-2028 predicts a 2 billion dollar growth of the smart textile market. This growth can only be achieved by replacing the existing approaches, mostly manual production, with series production. With the Smart Textiles Micro Factory, the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University, short ITA, will be demonstrating for the first time on the Texprocess stand, stand number C02, in the transition from Halls 4.1 and 5.1 how a smart textile can be manufactured from design to finished product together with various partners by producing a smart cushion.

The product and the manufacturing process are the result of co-innovation. In the future, co-innovation for smart textiles is to be implemented via the GeniusTex platform. As part of the German Federal Ministry of Economic Affairs and Energy's major strategic project for the “Smart Service World”, ITA is working with partners from industry and research to develop the online platform for smart textile innovation.

Denim Expert Ltd. joined the Fashion Industry Charter for ClimateAction alongside other brands and suppliers.
Denim Expert Ltd. is the first manufacturer in Bangladesh to join the UNFCCC (United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change) and currently taking climate action in line with the goals established by the Paris Agreement of 2015. The company is limiting their Green House Gas (GHG) emissions supporting the world reaching climate neutrality by 2050.

The United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) is an international environmental treaty, which entered in to force on 21st March 1994, having being ratified by a sufficient number of countries. The ultimate objective of the convention is to stabilize greenhouse gas concentrations in the atmosphere at a level that will prevent dangerous human interference with the climate system.

The parties to the convention have met annually from 1995 in Conferences of the Parties (COP) to assess progress in dealing with climate change. In 1997, the Kyoto Protocol was concluded and established legally binding obligations for developed countries to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions in the period 2008–2012. The 2010 United Nations Climate Change Conference produced an agreement stating that future global warming should be limited to below 2.0°C relative to the pre-industrial level. In 2015 the Paris Agreement was adopted, governing emission reductions from 2020 onwards, through commitments of countries in Nationally Determined Contributions, lowering the target to 1.5°C. The Paris Agreement entered into force on 4 November 2016.

Gianluca Croci's priority will be to support Lectra's French customers in their transformation towards Industry 4.0
Lectra announces the appointment of Gianluca Croci as Managing Director, Lectra France. Based in Paris, Gianluca Croci reports to Fabio Canali, President, Southern Europe & North Africa.

Gianluca Croci has more than 20 years of experience in the fashion industry. He began his career in 1998 in the department store chain La Rinascente before joining the Giorgio Armani group in 2002, where he managed, from 2006 to 2015, the Belgian and French subsidiaries. Gianluca Croci later held management positions for major fashion and luxury brands, such as Roberto Cavalli and Marcolin, and was recently the Sales & Marketing Director for Technogym France, a designer of sports equipment.

Gianluca Croci will fulfil Lectra's promise to fashion companies in France: to facilitate the digitalization of their know-how in order to empower them to make a successful transition to Industry 4.0. This ambition is being realized by the 2018 launch of the revolutionary solution, Fashion On Demand by Lectra, which enables fashion companies to customize a garment or make it to measure. This end-to-end personalization offer—the first of its kind—complements a portfolio that is known to solve the pressing challenges confronting the fashion industry. The latest, Kubix Link, developed by Kubix Lab, a start-up acquired by Lectra in January 2018, is an innovative platform for managing product information.

"France is known worldwide for being a leader in fashion and technological innovation. It is a country where brands, retailers and manufacturers have already begun their transformation towards Industry 4.0. I am proud to support our customers’ pursuit of greater connectivity and collaboration in their operations, as well as in assisting them to make the shift to personalization," says Gianluca Croci.
Gianluca Croci and his teams are committed to providing their French customers with the high level of expertise and service that characterizes Lectra's value proposition.
Gianluca Croci's efforts are also tied to the dynamic activities of Lectra Southern Europe & North Africa. There are many synergies in the region’s fashion industry, ranging from the sharing of expertise between French and Italian companies to the integration into their ecosystem of the Moroccan and Tunisian subcontractors.

"Our regional organization enables us to be closer to our customers’ challenges and to provide them with the support they need to achieve their ongoing targets. Gianluca Croci will lead the French teams and contribute to the region's growth," says Fabio Canali. "His extensive experience with major Italian and French companies brings new energy to the development of Lectra France.”
Gianluca Croci is a graduate of the European Institute of Business Administration (INSEAD), Fontainebleau (France), and the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy).

Since 1931, Bemberg™ is a new material definition for responsible luxury. The one for cool exquisite comfort, whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel.

Starting from September 2018, Asahi Kasei has launched the Bemberg™ brand in Europe, with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

Enhancing core values through a more refined product and process in order to support our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and a straight communication. This is the key motivation behind the launch of the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines the future of contemporary luxury with this unique fiber.

This is the reason why manufacture is playing a key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills for apparel textiles featured at the booth include: A-GIRLS, Alberto Bardazzi, DEBS, Ekoten, Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, Matias & Araujo, Sidonios Knitwear, SMI Tessuti, T.B.M. Group, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, Texteam and Tintex Textiles. Key lining developments are presented by Brunello, Gi Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami Manifattura Pezzetti and Tessitura Marco Pastorelli.

At JEC World 2019, Sika Advanced Resins will unveil Ullit’s new composite tank for trucks that run on compressed natural gas (CNG).

Together with its tailor-made epoxy system designed by Sika Advanced Resins, who are a leader in the development and production of high-performance resins, the tank helps to reduce pollution in urban traffic.

An epoxy laminating system that adapts to different designs
The tank, which contains up to 320 liters is the same size as a conventional diesel fuel tank. "We have been innovating together for more than 10 years! Sika Advanced Resins has developed a specific resin for our new range of high-pressure tanks. This high-performance resin can be adapted to all design constraints, particularly for our very high-pressure hydrogen tanks, up to 700 bar," explains Ullit founder and CEO Claude Hembert.

Sika Advanced Resins has used its expertise to develop a tailor-made resin to withstand the cyclic pressurization loads on the filament-wound tanks. In combination with carbon fiber the resin provides mechanical resistance for different tank shapes including those for vehicles running on natural gas. "The tank is placed in the same place as a diesel fuel tank and avoids the need for transformations in trucks. In addition Ullit-Sika composites reduce the weight of the tank by a factor of four, a huge benefit when we estimate that one tonne saved on a truck saves four liters of fuel per 100 kilometers in urban traffic," explains Patrick Noirclerc, Local Expert Composites at Sika Advanced Resins.

• Patented technology with bluesign®, ECO PASSPORT, and Skin Friendly certification

Polyester sport and functional textiles treated with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 are protected against “permastink”. Already a holder of the Swiss Technology Award, the Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 odor-management technology can now carry the bluesign® sustainability label, the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. SANITIZED AG has been a bluesign® system partner for over 10 years.

An unwelcome odor can quickly develop in polyester sport and functional clothing, even if freshly washed. This is “permastink”. It’s a challenge to the textile industry as it generally reduces the attractiveness and market opportunities of sport and functional clothing made from polyester.

The patented, non-biocidal Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 technology provides specific solutions and sales arguments for the end products. It works in two ways: The odor-causing bacteria can’t stick to the textile surface and are washed out completely in a normal wash cycle. This is due to the anti-adhesive “coating” applied in the padding process. This effect has been proven in a test procedure developed in cooperation with EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Material Science and Technology). Secondly, the treatment has an adsorbing effect. The odors are “trapped” and repeatedly expelled during a normal wash cycle.

No binder, no nano
Another characteristic: The treatment with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 doesn’t apply an additional binder system. As with all of our products, SANITZED AG uses no nano technology. The safety and tolerability have been confirmed by the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. These have now been joined by the bluesign® accreditation.

Color Solutions International, a member of the DyStar® Group, has issued their COLOR ANALYSIS report for Autumn/Winter 2020.

The trend and color experts at CSI are delighted to bring you the sixth issue of the Color Analysis report. New for this season, the experts at Color Solutions International have delved deeper by giving more detail for each color using their proprietary Relative Color Popularity process (RCP). RCP is a marriage of color validation with trend color forecasting. The RCP report has been organized into four categories to help validate your color selection.

In this issue, 54 ColorWall™ colors are featured along with additional color validation, color evolution, and direction by hue. "This season’s Color Analysis for Autumn/Winter 2020 found its inspiration in our heritage and reconnection of our roots. We look from the past to present day reality to shape the themes of trends reflected in the spirit of time we are living in. From a time gone by to this moment of now, themes take shape as they transform historic elements into modern day life, intertwining together to create a new existence full of creative energy and vitality.

Reminiscent of a time gone by, all that we consider heritage to be, has developed into a level of loyalty and trust over time. The quality in make and the care that goes into construction found in the ideas of heritage goods begin to resurface into a lifestyle of quality over quantity. In the present and future looking forward, we also continue to explore innovative lifestyle trends as we are becoming more conscious about the environment and the impact our choices have.

Chomarat, a leader in technical textiles and composite reinforcements, is developing its Coatings & Films business at its French sites. The Group has just acquired an extruder and a graining line to increase its production capacities and develop new, more efficient solutions, particularly in the field of TPO (polyolefin thermoplastics). These two technological investments are part of the €35 million investment plan announced by the Group in mid-2017.

AN EXPANDED OFFER WITH THE NEW GRAINING LINE
The graining line gives texture to the coated textile and provides a differentiation of appearance or a functionalization, such as non-slip or durability. "We will use this new technology to broaden the scope of material we process (including the production of TPO sheets with or without backing), and to improve the perceived quality by a better grain definition," explains Philippe Chomarat, Director of the Coatings & Films business at Chomarat. This technological investment enables the Group to increase its production capacities and offer new solutions for the automotive and luxury bag markets.

INCREASING PERFORMANCE WITH THE NEW EXTRUDER
The new extruder increases the Chomarat production capacity for coated textiles and allows production in larger widths. The technology consumes less energy and emits very low level of VOCs, in line with the Group's sustainable approach. It also supplements existing solutions for developing biosourced coated fabrics. "This is a strategic investment for Chomarat, as in addition to PVC, we will be able to work with new materials such as TPO, TPU and new biosourced materials. We will offer innovative solutions for all our markets—pipes, luxury bag, automotive and protection," concludes Philippe Chomarat.

• Latex-free: UltraBond allows 100% recyclable thermal bonded nonwovens
• Sustainability & cost-efficiency: significant reductions in CO2 emissions and energy and water consumption for manufacturers of needlepunched exhibition & contract flooring
• UltraBond debuts at Domotex 2019 Stand B56 Hall 11

Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) unveils a unique opportunity for carpet manufacturers to create fully recyclable needlepunch carpets, and benefit from production and resource savings, without influencing performance.

Launched at Domotex 2019, new UltraBond is a patented polyolefin bonding staple fibre that eliminates the need for latex or other chemical binders to bind nonwovens. It opens up a new path for creating 100% polypropylene (PP) needlepunch carpets which meet the same performance requirements as traditional latex-bonded carpets while reducing the end-of-life environmental impact. Functional properties such as pilling resistance, resistance to wear and abrasion, and also UV resistance are guaranteed.

Using UltraBond manufacturers finally gain the potential to cost-efficiently produce 100% recyclable carpets. In addition to the general benefits of making recycled PP available for the plastics production chain and reduced waste generation, environmental advantages and financial savings arise from a total lack of water and less energy use. As a 100% dry process, thermal bonding uses no water and results in a total absence of waste water. There is also a reduction in the VOC level of the carpet. This all leads to a significant reduction in a needlepunch carpet’s ecological footprint.

The sustainability benefits are quantified through lifecycle analysis (LCA) of an exhibition carpet application – among the primary applications for needlepunch carpets. Evaluations show that the absence of water consumption directly translates into a large energy saving of 93% when using UltraBond compared to a latex bonding solution, and also a potential annual water saving of over 20 million litres for 100 million m2 of exhibition applications in the EU. Without the addition of any other bonding agent, CO2 emissions are reduced by 35% over the full production process.

Karena Cancilleri, Vice President Beaulieu Engineered Products, Beaulieu International Group, commented, “Recyclability and achieving a greener, more cost-effective production process without compromising on current performance levels are significant unsolved topics within today’s carpet industry. By eliminating the need for latex and chemical binders through UltraBond, we offer needlepunch manufacturers a breakthrough they have been looking for that boosts environmental and economic sustainability. We see textile flooring as just the beginning. Together with our customers, we look forward to exploring the potential of this unique thermal bonding fibre in other applications such as laminated nonwovens or as an alternative to dry powders.”

Discover more about UltraBond from the Beaulieu Fibres International team at Stand B56 Hall 11, Domotex 2019 in Hannover, Germany from January 11-14, 2019.

• STOP TALKING. START ACTING.
• Climate change is real. And so is the responsibility of every human being to help in reducing waste.

We no longer want to talk about sustainability, we want to act. For January, PREMIUM is partnering with Spanish fashion label and sustainable clothing pioneer ECOALF. The brand will present its lifelong mission and latest collection in a dedicated space as well as an art installation together with conceptual artist Juan Garaizabal.

"2019 is all about digital first and an active debate about social and environmental issues. Transparency and sustainability are key words. By reducing plastic waste on all our shows, teaming up with ECOALF and giving this wonderful brand dedicated space and time for spreading their message, we are taking steps into right direction. Every little action counts. We should talk about the things we do more instead of talking about what we are not doing. We all need to wake up. Now.” – Anita Tillmann, CEO PREMIUM Group

ECOALF creates high-quality garments using recycled materials collected from the bottom of our oceans. Commitment, sustainability and innovation are at the core of everything the company does, resulting in both conscious and stylish urban, adventure, knitwear and activewear pieces.   
 
“I love collaborating with people that also believe we have the opportunity to change the world for the better. It’s no longer about what you do, but how you do it. It is important to stand up for what you believe in, because fashion cannot just be about looking good.” – Javier Goyeneche, President and Founder of ECOALF. 

On Wednesday, January 16th, at 10am and 2pm, Goyeneche will present his brand’s values, philosophy and way of working on the experience floor of SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM at Kühlhaus, right next to the STATION area. Show visitors, media and other exhibitors are invited to listen, learn and discuss.   
 
The art piece in partnership with Garaizabal unveiled at PREMIUM on January 15th is filled with waste to portray our everyday reality, and purposefully interactive so that visitors can throw their own trash inside the installation. The aim is to educate about correct waste disposal and show that every individual’s decision matters: Stop, Think, Act.