From the Sector

• adidas TERREX athlete Laura Dahlmeier tackles Mont Blanc’s Brouillard Pillar with Thomas and Alexander Huber in the film, United By Summits
• The trio are kitted out in adidas TERREX’s new Techrock Mountaineering range
• The adidas TERREX Techrock collection gives climbers the lightweight technical wear required to defy the elements mountainside

Mountaineering is about reaching personal summits. It’s about showing your mettle, finding your freedom and winning in front of no one but yourself and nature.

It’s a version of success that adidas TERREX athlete Laura Dahlmeier is reacquainting herself with. A multiple Olympic and world champion, the German biathlete is used to the noise of winning in front of huge crowds. Now retired, Laura is reconnecting with the challenges of a sport that first gave her a taste of freedom as a child: climbing.
Laura sets herself a particularly formidable goal in United By Summits. In the film, she is joined by German climbing brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber for an ascent of Mont Blanc’s infamous Brouillard Pillar and the rarely-attempted Bonington Route made famous by British climber Chris Bonington in 1965.

For this, and any other climb, mountaineers require lightweight but rugged technical wear that ensures easy movement while defying the elements mountainside, allowing for complete focus on the rock and ice in front of them.

Introducing the adidas TERREX Techrock Mountaineering range – worn by Laura and the Huber brothers in United By Summits as they climb one of the Alps’ most demanding routes.

Keeping climbers dry is the adidas TERREX Techrock Light Gore-Tex Mountaineering Jacket, a lightweight, packable jacket with breathable Gore-Tex Active 3-layer membrane to repel water. Adjustable hood and cuffs are compatible with helmets and gloves.

For insulation on colder climbs, the adidas TERREX Techrock Year Round Down Jacket locks in warmth with adidas-patented HeatSeal baffle construction and PrimaLoft® Gold insulation in the shoulders and cuffs. Pertex® Diamond Fuse 20 Denier yarn provides resistance to abrasion along with a water-repellent DWR-finished fabric.

For rugged, weather-resistant legwear that keeps climbers moving freely on any ascent, adidas TERREX Techrock Mountaineering Softshell Pants balance comfort and protection. Flexible, wool-backed softshell fabric moves easily while a tough nylon surface protects against abrasion. A soft waistband helps prevent bunching under harnesses for an easy-moving silhouette – essential on those long climbing days.

Kitted out in this new adidas TERREX Techrock Mountaineering range 4,000 metres above sea level, Laura and the Huber brothers achieved their goals together.

Sistema Moda Italia confirms its Innovation Area for the 34th edition of Milano Unica, an area which responds to the growing demand for innovation in products, processes and services able to give specific performances or made with innovative and sustainable systems. And right here we find Sitip’s technical fabrics for clothing, with the COSMOPOLITAN Fashion-tech fabrics collection, modern and comfortable, dedicated to contemporary urbanwear/sportswear style and which perfectly meets the new needs required by the market and by the final consumer: performance and design.

COSMOPOLITAN Fashion-tech is declined into urbanwear through the sartorial technical fabrics that the company has defined Techno Sartorial: a tailoring that combines flawless cuts with exceptional fabric performance.

For the production of contemporary urbanwear, thought for the city, Sitip showcases the man’s suit made of jacket+trousers in warp-knit Cosmopolitan Citylife fabric: bi-stretch nylon with UV protection (UPF 50+), quick drying, easy care and skin comfort. Highly performing, breathable, comfortable, insulating and with an exceptional fit: incredible elegance and comfort that enhance the contemporary urbanwear style.

For women, Sitip presents COSMOPOLITAN Fashiontech fabrics dedicated to athleisure, with leggings made - for the summer version - in Cosmopolitan London, a bi-stretch circular knitted fabric, no seethrough, breathable, comfortable on the skin with UV protection (UPF 50+), with easy care and perfect shape retention, and - for the winter version - in Cosmopolitan Paris GZ, a circular knitted fabric raised on the reverse side, with the same properties as the previous one and thermoregulation characteristics.

The Instinct fabric is available in the recycled and raised version NATIVE INSTINCT GZ: a GRS certified thermal fabric made with pre-consumer recycled yarns, bi-stretch, breathable, resistant to pilling, easy care and high comfort, ideal for sporty knitwear and urbanwear part of the NATIVE SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES family, the Sitip fabric collection produced with GRS certified recycled yarns and low environmental impact chemicals with a lower consumption of natural resources , able to respect the environmental and social criteria extended to all the stages of the production chain, including the traceability of raw materials. Sitip also operates in line with international certifications such as OEKO-TEX®, BLUESIGN®, GRS and adheres to the ZDHC gateway, adding to these an ISO 14001 environmental management system, which certifies the company’s commitment to reducing pollution risks.

• RadiciGroup and DKB introduce the first “circular” ski suit
• A garment made of yarn obtained from recycled materials and designed with end-of-life recyclability in mind, without compromising style, design and technical performance.
• RadiciGroup Ski Club athletes will be the first ambassadors of this sustainability project

The first truly sustainable ski suit, featuring Italian style and design and a zero-kilometre supply chain, is finally here. Two Bergamo companies of excellence played the leading roles in the conception and realization of this highly innovative fashion-sport garment: RadiciGroup, a world leading producer of chemical intermediates, polyamide polymers, high-performance engineering polymers and advanced textile solutions, and DKB, a company specializing in technical sportswear with the same brand name.

The ski suit, consisting of jacket and trousers, is fashioned with a fabric made of RENYCLE, a RadiciGroup yarn obtained from mechanically recycled polyamide (nylon), which affords notable savings in energy and water consumption, as well as lower CO2 emissions. In addition, the suit’s padding and numerous accessories, such as zippers, Velcro, buttons and thread, are also made of polyamide.

This achievement was made possible by the great teamwork of RadiciGroup and DKB on the research and development of chemically compatible materials that can be used in special applications requiring high technical performance. The end result is an almost mono-material garment that significantly facilitates end-of-life recycling. It can be more easily converted into polymers for use in the manufacture of ski boot components and bindings, in addition to applications in the automotive and furnishing industries, or in any other sector requiring the characteristics of high performance polyamides.

The ski suit by RadiciGroup is thus an all-round application of ecodesign and circular economy principles to fashion and garment making, which justifies the claim “Una sostenibilità all’altezza delle nostre montagne” [Sustainability worthy of our mountains] written in a logo patch on the inside of the jacket.

“I am particularly proud of this achievement, a synthesis of my passion and effort,” said Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup. “I’ve always loved mountaineering and skiing, and, together with my collaborators, I work hard at our company day in and day out to find innovative solutions that improve the sustainability of our industry. This ski suit is concrete proof of the fact that textiles and apparel can be made sustainable without compromising on comfort, design, looks or performance. I will never get tired of repeating that collaboration among the firms along the production chain is crucial to manufacturing goods with an ecodesign approach, considering their end-of-life recyclability and, thus, potentially giving them unlimited durability. Upstream producers, like us, gladly share our know-how in materials chemistry and experience in recycling with our downstream partners, so that, together, we can find sustainable and viable solutions in the various sectors where we operate.”

Grenzen verschwimmen: zwischen drinnen und draußen, Home und Office, formell und informell. Mit „Blurred Lines“ hat das Design-Team von DIGEL die neue Kollektion Frühjahr/Sommer 2022 überschrieben und trägt damit der Veränderung des kollektiven Kleidungsstils Rechnung. Jersey und Powerstretch verleihen den Smart-Formal-Looks Bequemlichkeit und Sportivität.

Die Outfit-Vorschläge sind überwiegend monochrom zusammengestellt. Zum einen wirken neutrale Nuancen durch ihre Lässigkeit, zum anderen zieht mitunter kräftig Farbe ein. Maskuline Pastelle von Kopf bis Fuß – ein Trendthema der Saison. Konkret finden sich Camel und Kitt, Lucent White, helles Grau und Asphalt, aber auch Golden Cream, Emberglow und Mint auf der Farbskala. Die Blaupalette reicht von Azurine über Gray Blue bis hin zu fast schwarzem Marine.

Streifen und bewegte Oberflächen highlighten die Hemden. Eine wichtige Rolle kommt der Outerwear zu. Leichte Carcoats, garment-washed, präsentieren sich sowohl als formeller Begleiter als auch als Kombipartner von Chino und Jeans. Die neue Saison zeigt das Formelle entspannter, Casual wird feiner.

Eine Key-Qualität ist „All Year Down“, Echt-Daune umgesetzt als Kurzmantel, Overjacket und Blouson, wasserabweisend, winddicht und das ganze Jahr über tragbar.

Laying the bases for a more sustainable world, adopting responsible strategies is no longer an option but an indispensable and compulsory structural revolution today and for the future to come. This topic is the subject of the Smart Voice "The Circular Stories of C.L.A.S.S.: the journey of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei towards a smart, responsible and contemporary luxury" organised by C.L.A.S.S. eco hub that has taken place on Thursday 27th May at 4 pm CET. 4 unique and complimentary design realities has been sharing  the  Bemberg ™ choice as unique and precious fibre ingredient that gives rise to a performing design incorporating new generation values, for their unique paths of style and fashion to offer to the contemporary consumer.

Specialist and expert of innovative fibres, during the session Ettore Pellegrini, Marketing & Sales Manager-Marketing & Sales Manager Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia, illustrated the history of Bemberg™ starting from its origins to nowadays, reporting its various applications that have been then illustrated in their uniqueness by the speakers of the session.

Paolo Verdoia, Lining research and development raw materials at Ermenegildo Zegna, who has been involved in the development of accessory raw materials for the Ermenegildo Zegna Group for 14 years. During the digital meeting he talked about priority collaborations with responsible and high quality materials such as Bemberg™, the brand's approach to sustainability and future projects.

The session has also been attended by new generation designer Gilberto Calzolari winner of C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2020, who used Bemberg™ in his latest AW 2021-22 collection entitled "At this stage".

Camilla Carrara, founder and zero-waste designer Zerobarracento says "We select Bemberg™ for our creations for two fundamental reasons: firstly, from a stylistic point of view for its extreme versatility: in the various collections we have adopted it to create Kimonos, padded jackets, wrap dresses as well as for the interiors of our garments, which are intended to be soft embraces for total physical and mental comfort. The second but no less important reason is that this fibre has circular values in line with our zero-waste commitment."

“By choosing to work with Bemberg™, we have made an exclusive and sustainable choice in order to offer tailors, designers, brands and garment manufacturers who believe in and are committed to responsible but at the same time premium and exclusive fashion a new business opportunity" says Alessandro Ivaldi Director Business Unit of Carnet, a division of Ratti Group that produces and distributes worldwide fabrics for the creation of made-to-measure garments for men and women.

• Collaboration Between DuPont™ Sorona® and Sateri’s EcoCosy®

DuPont™ Sorona® and Sateri’s EcoCosy® have together developed a new fabric called StretchCosy™. The fabric uses a blend of Sorona®, a partially plant-based fibre, and Sateri’s ultra-comfortable and near weightless EcoCosy® fibres to achieve a soft material that is highly stretchable, shape-retaining and, most importantly, sustainably sourced.

StretchCosy™ combines the mechanical stretch of Sorona® stretch fibres, which gives it excellent stretch and long-lasting, consistent recovery, with the soft, cotton-like breathability and smooth silk-like texture of EcoCosy® for an unparalleled fabric that is high-performing and well-suited for fashion and sportswear.

Created in 2019, StretchCosy™ is a fabric breakthrough that made it possible for natural plant-based fibres to be more extensively used in various applications, e.g. t-shirts, shirting, bottoms, jackets, dresses, hoodies and underwear. Previously, cellulosic fibres were rarely found in sportswear, due to concerns such as pilling. The combination of Sorona® and EcoCosy® in StretchCosy™ has eliminated this concern, hinting at the future of activewear where performance combined with sustainability will be the norm.

How many jackets do you need to get through all the shifts in temperature during fall and winter? The moment may have arrived where just one jacket will do. And how cool would it be if everyone could optimise the warmth of their jacket individually and adapt it to their personal feel-good factor? And all in a product without compromises, where sophisticated design and intelligent fabrics join forces with technological competence? For this ambitious aim, these three leading companies put their heads and their core competencies together.

The Heatable Capsule Collection is on its way
Today, Telekom, AlphaTauri and Schoeller are launching a technological innovation together: the Heatable Capsule Collection. While Telekom is bringing its technological components to the table, AlphaTauri designed the collection and Schoeller developed the heating technologies and fabrics as well as the electronic components. The Heatable Capsule Collection kicks off with a jacket and a gilet in two different colourways. Wearers decide the level of warmth for themselves in the jacket or gilet. The clothing items are operated by app. Individual zones around the pocket and kidney areas can be heated.

The collection, for men and women, targets the lifestyle and technology-oriented consumer segment, the so-called “urban explorer”. The apparel is cross-seasonal, suitable for all cooler types of weather, and practical when travelling, hiking or for other sports. The partially heatable gilet can be worn alone or under a jacket.

The ideal feel-good temperature can be selected from two heating levels in the jacket and gilet. Thanks to Schoeller® E-Soft-Shell heating technology the heat function is completely integrated into the fabric and localised as close as possible to the wearer’s body. Beyond that, the inbuilt sensors can measure the microclimate temperature inside the jacket.

The jacket is already being further developed with additional features, where connectivity and AI will become increasingly relevant.

C.L.A.S.S. discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how smart materials are able to deliver eco hi-tech valuable innovations. 

Five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Among the first adopters of E.C.O. Kosmos shines Gilberto Calzolari, a luxury prêt-à-porter brand Made in Italy with a responsible soul, whose style is represented by the demi-couture dress: fresh, glamorous and romantic. Precious fabrics, complemented by the highest quality in production techniques and tailoring craftsmanship, bear the hallmarks of a brand with a strong identity that is in tune with the needs of contemporary living and reclaims the values of environmental sustainability as well as elegance and excellence typical of luxury Made in Italy. Supported by the CNMI Fashion Trust due to its environmental committment and unique design, the brand chose two materials of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection for the SS 2020 presented during MFW: the E.C.O. AURORA 50% AMNI SOUL ECO® -50% Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified Cotton canvas and the E.C.O. SONICA Newlife™ stretch satin.

Closed: the German brand, founded in1978, focuses on great designs, small details and pure quality to create understated and advanced denim looks totally handmade in Italy. Closed selected the new amazing Candiani ReLast line, the range of market fresh responsible denim products whose objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution. The partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 4 certification, thanks to its high percentage of recycled content and appropriated process of transformation.

Within the premium brand adoptions of Bemberg™ shines Martin Greenfield, one of the world's most renowned tailor company. The company, founded in 1977 by Martin Greenfield, realizes hand tailored men’s clothing to meet the requirements of innovative designers, specialty retailers, costume designers, stylists and individuals. For finest made-to-order as well as made-to-measure suits,100% built by hand in their Brooklyn Factory, they choose Bemberg™ Yarn Dyed Lining produced in Italy and Japan for its soft versatility, unique precious touch and exquisite comfort.

My.Suit: Since My.Suit was founded in 2008 in NYC, their philosophy has been simple: provide their clients with a better way to buy a suit.  Their made-to-measure suits and tuxedos offer a better fit than traditional off-the-rack alternatives by accommodating as many different body types as possible, and can be made in a variety of fabric and style options to suit individual needs.  My.Suit utilizes a vertical business model: fabric mill, suit manufacturing, and retail locations, to provide a quick delivery time at an attractive price point. My.Suit has been using Bemberg™ lining to add style and comfort to their suit jackets for over a decade.  With a wide range of colors and designs, Bemberg lining complements their extensive fabric selection and helps us to create visually stunning suits that feel great and provides a personalized option to their clients.

un-sanctioned™ is an innovation-driven performance running apparel brand newly launched in September, 2019; founded on the belief that it’s time for running to give back to the environment all runners take so much joy from.  In partnership with Miti-Spa, un-sanctioned™ has developed and launched with two initial sustainable performance running fabrics called [ BottleKnit™ ] — a 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. And [ WasteKnit™] — a 100% upcycled polyamide made from industrial waste blended with ROICA™ EF yarn for uncompromising smart stretch performance.

Schoeller, the global textile solutions manufacturer dedicated to sustainability and innovation for more than 150 years, introduces its new PROEARTH™ collection of biodegradable textiles. The new collection, comprised of bluesign® approved fabrics with biodegradable polyester, will debut as part of its Schoeller FTC (SFTC) line, a joint venture between Schoeller Textil AG and the Taiwanese Formosa Taffeta Co. Ltd., at Premiere Vision Paris, September 17-19, Hall 6, Stand 6J18.

As the founding developer of the bluesign® system, the first activewear and leisurewear manufacturer to receive Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification, and one of the first companies to sign the UN’s Paris Agreement for climate change, Schoeller continues to be on the cutting edge of sustainable practices, bringing one of the first collections of biodegradable synthetic fabrics to the market. Its most recent development, PROEARTH was created to help offset the more than 16 million tons of textile waste produced in the US alone each year.

Jacket, pant and lining fabrics
The SFTC PROEARTH collection will launch with five, bluesign®-approved fabrics designed for lifestyle, fashion and outdoor categories. Made with virgin polyester that has been optimized for biodegradation and has tested to biodegrade at faster and better rates than competitive offerings, the initial PROEARTH articles available this fall include jacket, pant and lining material qualities with various colour options.

• Metallic sheen and concealed safety

Net-like structures, metallic sheen, concealed safety, naturally-warming fabrics with Nilit® Heat yarn made of coffee charcoal and PFC-free bio technologies based on renewable raw materials are just some of the highlights of the Schoeller 2019/20 Winter Collection, developed and produced amidst the mountains of Switzerland. Color effects create metallic surfaces on functional textiles and exciting multi-colored looks with richly contrasting reverses.

METALLIC SHINE

The new schoeller®-spirit qualities provide grand style in winter 2019/20. The softly-flowing warp-knitted goods play with transparency and metallic looks. In forest green, silver or copper and aluminized reverse, this season’s  showpieces are also reflective. This play with light continues in the crosswise elastic lightweight with a reflecting dot design. This cool print with concealed safety in two-tone silver grey or khaki green ensures outstanding visibility at twilight. Additional water repellence is provided by the fluorocarbon-free ecorepel® Bio technology, based on renewable raw materials.

WARM FABRICS

The new schoeller®-dryskin qualities ensure a pleasantly warm body climate in winter 2019/20. Thanks to the insulating Nilit® Heat yarn on the interior, which captures and stores the body’s own heat, these fabrics warm the wearer naturally. This unique yarn produced using coffee charcoal posseses antibacterial properties and offers maximum clothing comfort at winter temperatures. The focused pants and jacket qualities in a variety of weights in fresh mandarin, deep aubergine, petrol or light stone also impress with their high abrasion resistance, ideal moisture management and reliable water repellence thanks to PFC-free ecorepel® Bio technology. The same natural heat retention is offered by the cozy schoeller®-naturetec in washable, mulesing-free wool and ecorepel® Bio in dark petrol, navy or rust.

MULTI COLOR

In addition to sustainable fabrics and technologies, winter 2019/20 is dominated by multi-coloration. The highly-elastic multi-colored schoeller®-prestige and schoeller®-dryskinqualities lead to completely new color effects and nuances. Ever-changing, exciting effects result from beautiful mossy greens and dark blue and grey variations to burnt henna and chocolate color combinations. Always with a contrasting color on the reverse, they are real eye-catchers which of course also impress in functional terms. In addition, the schoeller®-dryskin qualities are finished with the PFC-free ecorepel® Bio technology.

Nilit® Heat is a registered trademark of NILIT Ltd.