From the Sector

The summer edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris welcomed nearly 1,200 exhibitors from 26 countries. This season event was characterised by a number of new features and the dynamics remained satisfactory. Next event: February 10, 2025, in a partially renovated Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre for a session rich in initiatives.

The latest edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, offered in its full version with the Avantex and Leatherworld sectors, ended on July 3 with attendance levels down on the July 2023 session. Over and above a possible "Olympic Games effect" and its consequences on transport and accommodation costs in the capital, the current economic situation is prompting the show's organizers to explore all alternatives to adapt the offer to market demand. However, these results do not seem to have had any impact on the flow of business between visitors and exhibitors, who reported a fairly positive overall climate.

The dynamic on the booths remained steady and the exchanges satisfactory, as shown by several manufacturers particularly well established on the European market. Indian shirt manufacturer Sheraton Apparel, for example, made around thirty solid contacts over 3 days, and reported several serious approaches to African distributors. The same goes for SMIT, a Turkish company specialising in Made in Turkey sourcing, which was able to see its main European customers and open up new contacts with Canadian and Brazilian buyers.

An expanded offering
At the Near Sourcing Hub, the phygital sourcing space connected by QR Code to the B2B digital platform of Messe Frankfurt France partner FourSource, inquiries to exhibiting companies remained much the same as in 2023. The visitor profile, on the other hand, focused on buyers from networks of small multi-specialist boutiques looking for an original mid-to-top-range offering. It was in response to this market demand for differentiation that the show organizers decided to extend Apparel Sourcing's range to include new categories in the fashion accessories sector, such as jewelry and bags.

High-profile initiatives
Other innovations were also on show this summer. The yarn pavilion - a first conceived in collaboration with Yarn Expo, originally a Shanghai show run by Messe Frankfurt - showcased the expertise of Chinese, Indian, Pakistani and Taiwanese companies, while at the same time highlighting upstream products and services. At Avantex, where some twenty suppliers of solutions for more sustainable fashion were grouped together, the new Designer Hub enabled designers and buyers to discover some original initiatives, such as that of stylist Jean-Luc François' association, supported by Messe Frankfurt's Texpertise network, which trains people who are far from employment, or the 3D design studio Scotomalab.

Materra wins 2024 Avantex Fashion Pitch award
The Avantex Fashion Pitch jury has awarded the 2024 prize to Materra. This British start-up, founded in 2019, designs solutions to support the cotton cultivation adapted to climate change. At the other end of the chain, it offers brands a service designed on a Cotton-As-A-Service model that encourages them to source from the producers it supports. Materra will benefit from a €2,800 stand at Avantex Paris 2025 donated by Messe Frankfurt France, plus €2,000 from Texpertise Network, the textile sector network of the Messe Frankfurt Group, and 1 year's incubation at Foundry donated by IFA Paris, official partner of the competition.

A trendy area at Leatherworld
New for 2024, the Leatherworld sector inaugurated its Leather Trend area, developed in collaboration with publisher Edizioni AF and the Arsutoria School design centre. Designed around the expertise of Italian companies specialising in the manufacture of leather shoes and bags, this inspirational space presented the autumn-winter 25-26 trends through 4 creative axis built around the expression of simplicity, nature, dynamism (sportswear collections) and finally romanticism. Leather Trend was also an opportunity to discover the new leather tanning technology developed by Ecotan, which avoids the use of metals (Chrome) and chemicals in the leather preparation stages thanks to the use of vegetable tannins.

The European Textile and Clothing industry (EURATEX) welcomes the proposed reforms to the EU's customs system, emphasizing the need for a modernized framework that addresses the challenges of the digital age and fosters a level playing field.

“Customs play a critical role in safeguarding fair competition within the EU Single Market and ensuring that products meet our environmental and safety standards,” states Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General. “We recognize the need for a reformed system adapted to the 21st century, particularly considering the growth of e-commerce and the increasing complexity of regulations.”

EURATEX highlights key priorities for a successful reform:

• Phasing Out De Minimis Exemption: EURATEX strongly supports abolishing the €150 import duty exemption for small consignments. This exemption has been exploited by e-commerce companies, creating unfair competition for European manufacturers. EURATEX urges immediate action to eliminate this loophole, rather than waiting until 2028.
• Harmonization and Streamlining: The organization calls for a unified customs regime across the EU, with simplified procedures and reduced administrative burdens for businesses, especially SMEs. This includes avoiding duplication of efforts and ensuring seamless interoperability between different customs information systems.
• Data Security and Transparency: EURATEX emphasizes the importance of robust data security measures within the proposed EU Data Hub. Clear regulations on data access, ownership, and cybersecurity safeguards are essential. Open collaboration between industry and policymakers is crucial in designing the Data Hub for optimal functionality.
• Effective Implementation of Trust & Check Trader (T&CT): The T&CT status offers potential benefits for companies through features like self-assessment. However, EURATEX raises concerns about practical implementation, particularly for SMEs struggling to obtain existing Authorized Economic Operator (AEO) statuses. Providing support for SMEs in obtaining this status is crucial.
• Interoperability and Data Sharing: EURATEX emphasizes the importance of the EU Data Hub's interoperability with various IT systems. Also, a uniform central IT network facilitating national and other legal requirements would be a significant step forward.
• Structured Dialogue with Stakeholders: The establishment of the EU Customs Authority (EUCA) is seen as a positive development for coordinating customs enforcement across the EU. EURATEX recommends a dedicated dialogue between the EUCA and stakeholders, including industry representatives, to improve overall coordination and effectiveness.

In sync with the fair’s 30th anniversary, the sourcing platform will host around 12 fringe events for fairgoers to stay ahead of the curve, under the following segments: Design Inspiration, Business O2O, Textiles & Technologies, and Industry Empowerment. Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles has joined forces with Danish trend agency SPOTT trends & business to present the design theme for 2025 – ‘Healing Home’ – together with eight trend directions set to captivate the home textiles market. Set to be a hotspot for in vogue sourcing and industry exchange, the show will take place at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai) from 14 – 16 August 2024.

To help home textile industry players set the tone and direction for the upcoming business season, the fair will present Trends 2025 along with leading trend agency SPOTT trends & business, to illustrate the ‘Healing Home– Spaces for Thriving Living’ theme that marks the path ahead for the evolving sector. This concept conveys the idea of a home that promotes a remedial, prosperous lifestyle, improving peoples’ general health and well-being, with several key factors contributing to the overarching theme:

• Eight key directions: Age-Old Crafts, Nature-Tech Synergies, Regenerative Possibilities, Wellbeing Spaces, Colourful Gatherings, Bio-Engineered Innovations, Transitional Practices, and Circular Systems.
• Five key colours: deep burgundy, warm terracotta, light creamy shade, saturated nostalgic green, and vaporous blue.

The founder of SPOTT trends & business, Ms Anja Bisgaard Gaede, will be onsite to share insights related to these new design trends. Fairgoers are invited to join her interactive trend tour, and physically experience the concepts steering the industry's future.

With the intention of sparking further design inspiration for industry players, an expert panel discussion of Chinese interior architects and designers, InterDesign Forum, will be held on the afternoon of Day 1. Focusing on design trend topics related to sustainability, Mr Shen Lei, Founder and Design Director of Interior Architects Design and the Chinese representative of the Intertextile International Lifestyle Trend Committee, will lead the discussion. Adding an international perspective, Ms Anja Bisgaard Gaede will join them for the accompanying round table talk.

In addition to serving as a gateway for efficient sourcing, the show will inspire fairgoers through its fringe programme, with various formats and topics unpacking current talking points.

Highlighted sessions include:    

• Round table discussion: Bridging Borders: A Designer x Producer Talk on Sustainability – a dialogue between designers and manufacturers, exploring how to collaboratively overcome sustainability challenges and reconcile the demands of both sides, from both Eastern and Western perspectives.
• Econogy Talks: selected exhibitors, including 3M, Advansa and many more, as well as a representative from Indorama will showcase their innovative green products, giving attendees in-person insights into some of the market’s latest sustainable developments in the Sustainable Fibre Forum. Additionally, a Messe Frankfurt representative will explain the Texpertise Econogy concept, the combination of economy and ecology that represents the sustainability activities in the company’s Texpertise Network. The discussion will show how crucial sustainability is for the economic success of a business today, and indicate how fairgoers can benefit from such an approach.

Beyond the subject of a greener textile industry, other topics will be explored at various events. With more to be announced in the coming weeks, the following seminars hosted by international experts will provide the latest trends and market updates:

• Bridging Worlds: Design Strategies for Success in Middle Eastern Markets: Ms Esra Lemmens (Day 1)
• How Psychology Impacts the Way We Design Spaces: Ms Pallavi Dean (Day 1)

Moreover, the 10th Home Textiles and Furniture Industry Ecological Integration Forum will bring together home textile and furniture brands to explore cross-industry collaboration and provide one-stop home solutions. The 30th China Home Textiles Design Festival & Designer Recommended Brand Awards will showcase the latest trends and achievements in home design, allowing participating brands to gain recognition from designers. Meanwhile, the 7th China International Fibre Art Exhibition will invite influential artists from home and abroad to present diverse contemporary fibre artworks; and the China Intangible Cultural Heritage of Textile Exhibition will showcase some remarkable displays.  

The start to the premiere of the CHINA WAVE pavilion at Pitti Uomo 106: the first stop of the "2024 China National Garment Association Overseas Programme" was a complete success for the participating designer labels from China. The Chinese brands impressed the international fashion world with their exclusive and extraordinary collections at the Costruzioni Lorenesi in the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The famous fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes, was also impressed by the creations.

The styles and current looks from from VALLEYOUTH, KB HONG BY K-BOXING, RAXXY, JDV, FENGGY, BLACKHEAD, KEYONE BY HATTERSHUB, TYPETAIL impressed buyers, fashionistas and media representatives alike with their design expertise, creativity and product quality. The combination of contemporary styles with traditional Chinese elements, as seen in the collections of KB HONG by BY K-BOXING, JDV and VALLEYOUTH, among others, attracted international audience from Italy, Germany, France, Great Britain, Spain, Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, the USA, Mexico, Canada, Australia and many more.

Among those welcomed to the pavilion was Suzy Menkes, who emphasised the combination of tradition and modernity in collections such as those from KB HONG by BY K-BOXING and VALLEYOUTH in the CHINA WAVE pavilion. VALLEYOUTH's new collection was presented by fashion photographer Acielle from style du monde at Vogue World, while fashion blogger Augusto Ferretti commented on the brands' designs as "artistic sculptures". The appearance of the famous Chinese actor and singer AYUNGA as a testimonial for the new KB HONG by BY K-BOXING collection at Pitti Uomo attracted particular attention.

Further stops of the "2024 China National Garment Association Overseas Programme" are Who's Next in Paris and TheOne Milano in Milan in September.

The next CHINA WAVE presentation at Pitti Uomo is planned for January 2025.

A navy blue nylon dress, providing elegance and comfort to the wearer while simultaneously highlighting the entire Made in Italy production chain: this is the new project RadiciGroup is presenting at Milano Unica, from July 9th to 11th at the Innovation Forum promoted by the TexClubTec section of Sistema Moda Italia.

The dress is the result of a traceability project led by RadiciGroup, involving different players in the textile sector: from the yarn producer to the fabric manufacturer to the final consumer.

A "tracer" has been inserted into the yarn, which is detectable through a scanner and allows to map the entire garment creation process - both physically and digitally - from the origin of the fibre to the item end of life. Through a QR code printed on the label, all the "stages" defining the outfit's journey can be seen, including the production of the fabric made by another company from Bergamo, Sitip. In this way, the final consumers can learn more about the production sites of what they wear, making more conscious purchasing choices.

At the booth of another Italian textile company, Tessitura Vignetta, visitors will be able to touch several types of fabric made with the "traced" nylon produced by RadiciGroup.

This is another example of how important it is to work transparently and collaboratively in the textile supply chain. Through the traceability of textile products, the goal is to fight counterfeiting and enhance products made in Europe, in line with the principles of the Digital Product Passport under development at the European Union.

Salvation Army charity shops have won two major awards from the Charity Retail Association for Outstanding Charity Retailer of the Year, and Environmental and Sustainability at the CRA Annual Conference held at the Harrogate Convention Centre on 26th June 2024.

This is the second time the charity has won the Outstanding Charity Retailer of the Year Award in the past four years - winning it outright in 2022 and 2024, and also being shortlisted in 2021 and 2023.

The Environmental and Sustainability Award sets out specific criteria that organisations must demonstrate, including the introduction of green policies, and new ways of dealing with textile recycling.

Both award categories focused on retail initiatives and key achievements over the previous 12 months. SATCoL recently announced its highest trading results and a record-breaking donation to its parent charity of over £11.2m.

In 2022 SATCoL launched its 5-Year Strategic Plan under the theme of ‘Dare to CARE’ – this included new performance measures for People, Planet and Profit. CARE represents SATCoL's values of Compassion, Accountability, Respect and Equality. The company continues to invest in its donation centres and refurbishing more high street shops – 10 new donation centres opened and 9 high street shops were refurbished in the year 2022-23.

SATCoL has also invested heavily in innovations including FibersortTM, an automatic sorting process that identifies and sorts second-hand garments by fibre type, and Project Re:claimTM, a commercial-scale polyester recycling plant designed to recycle end-of-life textiles. Project Re:claim is a joint venture with Project Plan B.

The Sustainability Report 2023, which is now digitally available, provides insights into the past financial year and summarizes the main ecological, economic and social developments. Sustainability is an integral part of the corporate strategy of the CHT Group.

• The CHT Group uses the terms PEOPLE, PLANET and PERFORMANCE to emphasize its commitment to the 3 dimensions of sustainability worldwide and sets itself further goals. The CHT Group consistently aligns its sustainability strategy with all three ESG dimensions
• Responsibility for sustainability lies with the Chief Sustainability Officer
• Climate protection plays a central role worldwide - the corporate carbon footprint (Scope 1-3) 2023 adds up to 456 kt CO2(e)
• The Group is pursuing the goal of becoming climate-neutral by 2045
• At the end of 2021, the CHT Group signed up to the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) to meet the goals of the Paris Climate Agreement and committed to the 1.5 °C target
• SBTi has validated the CHT Group's reduction targets - by 2030, Scope 1+2 emissions will be reduced by - 42 % and Scope 3 emissions by - 25 %. 82 % of sales were achieved with sustainably classified products
• In 2024 EcoVadis awards the CHT Group's sustainability management with the Gold level for the first time

After navigating the challenges of 2023, Vietnam's textile and garment exports have been gradually recovering. Additionally, foreign direct investment (FDI) into Vietnam during the first five months of this year reached USD 11 billion, a 2% year-on-year increase, according to the Foreign Investment Agency under the Ministry of Planning and Investment (MPI). To cater to Vietnam’s renewed business opportunities, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will return from 26 – 28 February 2025 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC).

The fair’s inaugural edition attracted 409 exhibitors and 17,262 visits from 17 and 55 countries and regions respectively. Building on this solid foundation, VIATT 2025 will continue to showcase the latest industry trends, and expand its focus on various pertinent areas. This will include the fair’s new Econogy Hub, a dedicated zone to advance the topic of sustainability in the textile industry, and to relate it closely to the demands of economic and social change. Together with the evolving environmental landscape, the fair will also help industry players adapt to the rapid adoption of new technology in the business world with the debut of the Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone. This zone will allow exhibitors to unveil the latest technology and solutions such as AI design, digital manufacturing, big data analytics, and more.

Concurrently, VIATT 2025 will continue to present a diverse range of exhibitors across the apparel, home textile and technical textile sectors, with positive feedback received from many quarters at the fair’s inaugural edition.

Apparel Fabrics & Fashion
In the first four months of 2024, textile and garment exports grew 6.3% year-on-year to over USD 10 billion. The US remains Vietnam’s top export market, followed by the EU, South Korea, China, and Japan. To meet this demand, Vietnam's textile industry continues to import a significant amount of raw materials. At VIATT 2024, yarns, fibres and fabrics for casualwear, sportswear and uniforms, as well as garment accessories, were in high demand.

Home & Contract Textiles
Vietnam’s home textile market is projected to undergo a steady CAGR of 2.4% from 2024 – 2032, driven by the rising need for modern and stylish home textiles, e-commerce expansion, and favourable government initiatives. At the fair’s previous edition, product groups included bedding, loungewear and bathroom textiles, curtains and curtain fabrics, upholstery and sofa fabrics, and home textile accessories.

At VIATT 2025, exhibitors can additionally present their latest offerings in the Home Textiles Display Zone or at dedicated product presentations, to maximise their visibility to potential buyers.

Technical Textiles & Technologies
Across the textile industry, investors are now focusing on optimising production capacity, streamlining supply chains, and enhancing product quality to maintain competitiveness in both domestic and international markets. With the new Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone to supplement the textile technology category, VIATT 2025 is set to play host to providers of textile and nonwoven machinery, CAD/CAM, CMT, and technology for embroidery, knitting, sewing, printing, and more. Exhibitors can draw more attention to their latest solutions by participating in the fair's new innovation showcase area.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain. The second edition will be held from 26 – 28 February 2025.

Archroma has won awards in two categories at the Just Style 2024 Excellence Awards. It took home two coveted Innovation Excellence awards for its SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions and AVICUERO® leather tanning process, as well as a Social Excellence award for its longstanding and holistic commitment to community engagement in Baroda, India.

The awards recognize how Archroma is driving change with innovations that advance sustainability and through initiatives that contribute to the socio-economic progress of communities near to its Baroda manufacturing plant.

Innovation Awards
Archroma was recognized for advancing sustainable manufacturing in two Just Style Excellence Awards for Innovation.

SUPER SYSTEMS+ is a comprehensive suite of solutions that addresses the textile industry's key challenges, including water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, circularity, chemical management and compliance.

By providing end-to-end, fiber-specific solutions that enhance process efficiency and offer intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ enables mills and brands to meet their sustainability targets as well as consumer demand for durable products with enhanced functionality and sustainability. With end-to-end solutions from pre-treatment to finishing, SUPER SYSTEMS+ can be deployed without additional investment. With future compliance in mind, the solutions also go beyond current regulations and industry standards to anticipate upcoming restrictions.

Archroma’s AVICUERO® is a system for sustainable leather tanning and dyeing. Developed in collaboration with UK-based leather technology expert Dr Leather, it is both chrome- and metal-free and yet maintains the quality and performance of traditional tanning methods. Tanners enjoy shorter processing times, eliminate the pickling process and reduce salt usage, leading to lower pollution effluent discharge loads. In addition, AVICUERO® can offer energy savings of up to 25% and CO₂ emissions reductions of up to 23% compared to traditional chrome tanning.

Social Award for Community Engagement
Archroma has also been recognized for the positive impact it is having on communities in the vicinity of Baroda through multifaceted initiatives that span early childhood development, student scholarships, agricultural education and the empowerment of women.

Archroma recently set up an Anganwadi Centre to provide a range of services in the community, including nutrition and health education and pre-school learning. It also runs a scholarship program for students in vocational training, helping to create a skilled talent pool for the region. Archroma is also collaborating with a local NGO to empower farmers with modern agricultural methods and insights.

The building of a Household Biogas Plant in Umraya village is another example of Archroma's sustainable initiatives. The conversion of manure into clean renewable energy by the plant tackles several issues, such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions and enhancing soil health. It also liberates rural women from the burden of sourcing conventional fuel sources and the health risks associated with burning dung cakes for fuel.

The Top Employers Institute has recognized Autoneum as a Top Employer 2024 in Switzerland. Being certified as a Top Employer showcases an organization’s dedication to a better world of work and exhibits this through their policies and people practices. This year, the automotive supplier's Human Resources (HR) department at its headquarters in Winterthur, Switzerland, took part in the comprehensive survey of the Top Employers Insti-tute for the first time and achieved an outstanding result.

The institute has been auditing companies worldwide for over 30 years. The certification program, which is based on an international standard, makes HR measures and their impact on employee conditions objectively measurable. To achieve this, the Top Employers Institute certifies organizations based on the participation and the results of their HR Best Practices Survey. This survey covers six HR domains consisting of 20 topics including People Strategy, Work Environment, Talent Acquisition, Learning, Diversity, Equity & Inclusion, Wellbeing and more.

The program has certified and recognized over 2 300 Top Employers in 121 countries/regions across five continents.