From the Sector

• GOTS Version 7.0 released
• GOTS certified entities grow by 8% and expand to 89 countries
• GOTS releases Due Diligence Handbook for certified entities
• Farm-Gin Registry implemented in India, creating a direct link and better evaluation of incoming data
• GOTS collaborates with European Space Agency and Marple for AI organic cotton project
• #Behindtheseams campaign reaches 21 million+ unique individuals

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), managed by non-profit Global Standard, recognises 2023 as a year of significant milestones. From expansion of GOTS-certified facilities to the release of a new standard version, GOTS remained a beacon for businesses navigating changing legislation, social and environmental demands.

Coming out of one of the strongest years for GOTS, 2023 culminated with 25 GOTS-approved certification bodies reporting a noteworthy 14,676 certified facilities (an 8% growth from 2022) in 89 countries.

Ushering in GOTS Version 7.0
As of 1 March, facilities that become GOTS-certified will operate under the new GOTS Version 7.0, released in March 2023 with a one-year transition period. GOTS Version 7.0 and its accompanying Implementation Manual provides a comprehensive solution for companies who want to produce organic textiles and be supported to ensure compliance with environmental and human rights due diligence along the entire value chain, from field to finished product.

GOTS Version 7.0 also introduced a six-step due diligence process and handbook that equips GOTS-certified operations to proactively identify, assess and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their value chains.

Looking to the future
GOTS initiated in 2023 two major projects in India, the globe’s largest producer of organic cotton. The Farm-Gin Registry was introduced for the 2022-2023 harvest season, which acts as a link between farm and gin and is a tool to strengthen integrity by collecting organic raw seed cotton data producing farm or farm group.

GOTS, the European Space Agency (ESA) and software company Marple launched a new project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems. The project trained artificial intelligence (AI) to use ESA satellite data to detect cotton fields across India and automatically classify them according to their cultivation standard. By integrating standardised yield metrics, this innovative approach will enable GOTS to generate realistic estimates of organic cotton yields in specific areas. In addition, the project is expected to empower GOTS to recognise cotton fields that have not yet obtained organic certification but possess the potential for a transition to organic cultivation. The first results of the project will be announced in June.

Educating the consumer
GOTS, in its ongoing commitment to stakeholder education, orchestrated in November an immersive 360-degree awareness and educational campaign. Successfully engaging both consumers and industry professionals, the initiative shined a spotlight on GOTS-certified companies and their products, which empowered consumers to make more conscientious choices while shopping. With an impressive turnout of over 250 certified entities, the campaign made a significant global impact, reaching more than 21 million unique individuals worldwide.

Global apparel retailer UNIQLO announces that it has signed a partnership agreement with the Singapore National Paralympic Council (SNPC) where UNIQLO becomes the Official Clothing Partner for the Singapore Paralympics team. Under the partnership, UNIQLO will provide LifeWear apparel to Singapore's delegations and officials at the coming major summer sports tournament in France. This comprises apparel to be worn for the opening and closing ceremonies, athlete village, and travel during the Games.

This is the first time that UNIQLO is providing apparel for a national team in Southeast Asia. The Singapore team clothing for the 2024 Summer games will largely comprise LifeWear items available at UNIQLO stores.

UNIQLO worked closely with SNPC to thoughtfully curate a selection of LifeWear apparel that emphasises function and comfort, while featuring modern looks that represent Singapore and blend seamlessly with the cityscape of Paris.

A red accent is applied to the accessories and lining as a tribute to the Singapore national colours. Touches of Singapore icons such as the orchid and the Singapore Lion Head symbol are reflected in the women's scarf and men's tie alongside a colour application of red, white and blue to represent Singapore and France.

UNIQLO'S commitment to diversity and inclusion
As part of the partnership, UNIQLO will also undertake community contribution activities with the council and athletes.

UNIQLO will be taking part in the inaugural Singapore Paralympic Fiesta to support Singapore's Para Athletes. Held at Our Tampines Hub from 4 - 7 May 2024, a UNIQLO Singapore team of over 100 staff and family will be participating in the Walkathon.

In line with UNIQLO's Next Generation Development Program, an initiative to inspire children and youth to discover a love of sport, UNIQLO will also join SNPC on their schools outreach efforts to raise awareness on Diversity and Inclusion and disability inclusion with programmes such as UNIQLO Access.

adidas have unveiled an innovation in the sport of wheelchair basketball. Born from extensive feedback and research with wheelchair athletes, the uniforms were developed by the adidas Innovation team in Portland in close collaboration with Adaptive Sports Northwest, a non-profit organization for adaptive athletics. The uniforms will be worn by the PNW Reign women’s wheelchair basketball team for the first time as they set out on a quest to win the NWBA Tournament on April 26-28, 2024.

Earlier in April, during the reveal of the adidas kits for the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, the sports brand announced that 86% of pieces of apparel worn on and off the field of play have been created using design principles that ensure they work for athletes with and without a disability alongside the development of adaptive training apparel.

The new wheelchair basketball jersey and shorts feature ergonomic advancements in pattern engineering, specifically tailored for seated positions to reduce bulk and increase comfort. Materials were selected based on detailed athlete feedback sessions and data analysis to unlock performance for seated athletes. The uniform features lightweight woven front panels for durability and full mesh back panels for breathability. Focus on the fit was paramount to deliver a uniform that felt light and comfortable.

Players of both genders have actively participated in rounds of feedback and ergometer testing sessions to measure maximum speed over pushes, providing the adidas team with invaluable insights into the mechanics of speed that will inform future research and development. In addition, the feedback was used to measure fit, performance, durability, and overall comfort to make the uniforms match the needed requirements. Finally, through the validation process, the PNW Reign basketball team confirmed that adapted patterns have been proven to reduce fabric bulk, decrease heat build-up and enhance confidence.

Archroma has introduced a new bio-based durable water repellent (DWR) finish that helps mills and brands produce apparel that is soft to the touch and yet offers robust rain and stain protection and an improved sustainability profile.

PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ is designed to provide great water repellence on all kinds of fibers while achieving a soft handle and avoiding undesired effects like yellowing and chalk marking. It performs especially well on synthetic fibers and their blends, making it ideal for apparel, outdoor wear and home textiles.

The new DWR is based on 50% renewable carbon content based on ASTM D6866 and is free of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and formaldehyde. It is also crosslinker-free, which makes it more flexible in use. While offering good wash durability on its own, PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ can be combined with a crosslinker like ARKOPHOB® NTR-40, which has a biocarbon content of 40%, to further boost wash and/or dry-cleaning resistance.

Sportswear, fashion and home textiles treated with the PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ durable water repellent qualify for the High IQ® Repel assurance program. The High IQ® program assures consumers that these products deliver performance, protection and comfort and meet strict environmental standards.

Eastman, a specialty materials company and producer of Naia™ cellulosic fibers, has formed a collaboration with Debrand, a logistics company specializing in finding sustainable solutions to apparel waste.

Teaming up with Debrand for collection of the waste, Eastman is using its molecular recycling technology to recycle 5,000 pounds of pre- and post-consumer apparel waste. The process breaks down apparel waste to its molecular building blocks and uses the certified recycled material to create Naia™ Renew fibers — circular fibers made from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material via Global Recycled Standard-certified mass balance.

Eastman and Debrand are showcasing the transformative potential of molecular recycling technology to address the textile waste crisis. By providing more circular solutions for apparel waste, this partnership sets a new standard for sustainable practices in the fashion industry. Prior to its collaboration with Eastman, Debrand secured a strategic investment from Waste Management, a provider of comprehensive waste management in North America, to deliver circular solutions across the U.S. and Canada.

Eastman continues to partner with strategic brands and organizations to drive innovation and enhance the infrastructure for a circular economy in the textiles industry. Recently, Eastman teamed up with Patagonia to recycle 8,000 pounds of its unusable apparel.

HeiQ introduces an anti-odor product addition to its HeiQ Fresh range to eliminate persistent malodor on feather and down products. Biobased HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down utilizes a combination of pre- and probiotics (synbiotics) which helps to break up the smelly components. This innovation will be showcased at the Techtextil 2024 Swiss Pavilion.

HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down is a 100% biobased technology engineered to combat the persistent malodor often associated with feather jackets, duvets, and pillows. Developed to address a common challenge faced by manufacturers and consumers alike, this solution represents a leap forward in the field of odor management by removing a significant objection to purchase.

The key issue lies in the natural oil secretion of the duck or goose to provide its natural waterproofing. While essential, this oil becomes the source of the unwanted odors that persist despite conventional cleaning methods. HeiQ Fresh for Feather & Down tackles this problem head-on by harnessing the power of synbiotics (pre- and probiotics).

Through an advanced process, the technology applied during the production stage effectively removes bacterial nutrients present in the feathers and down, thereby preventing the formation of persistent and unpleasant odors. Extensive testing has demonstrated a significant reduction in malodor even after prolonged use, validating the efficacy of this solution. The human sensory testing method according to ISO 17299-1 is the recommended test method.

For the second chapter of their Spring/Summer 2024 collection, adidas and Yohji Yamamoto continue to explore the concept of Contra-Natural. The collection highlights the tensions at the heart of Y-3: sport and boundary pushing design, organic and synthetic, linear perfection and natural imperfection.

For Chapter 2, Y-3 introduces a selection of dynamic apparel looks with a focus on refined cotton twill workwear inspired garments and reimagined sporting classics. Subtle yet bold overshirts, cargo pants, and tops are constructed with utility pockets and adjustable hems, while updated takes on the iconic adidas Superstar Tracksuit are elevated with topographical map piping. A selection of garments inspired adidas’ Teamgeist soccer jerseys rounds out the apparel collection, with each piece bearing a digital rust print inspired by the natural process of oxidation. Accompanying the apparel offering is a suite of accessories including nylon backpacks, totes, and holdalls.

From apparel to footwear, the second seasonal chapter plays host to an expressive selection of silhouettes as adidas performance Running technology is recontextualized through the lens of Y-3. Moving boldly into tomorrow, Yohji Yamamoto’s take on adidas’ pinnacle running silhouette takes the form of the Y-3 PRIME X 2 STRUNG, while the Y-3 ADIOS PRO 3.0 arrives in three colorways.

From the past, reborn, to the future, the Y-3 Spring/Summer 2024 Chapter 2 collection is then punctuated by the Y-3 WATER SLIDE, the Y-3 SANDAL, and an update to the instantly recognizable Y-3 ITOGO which sees the silhouette’s straps swapped out for an engineered print.

As part of a broader initiative to reduce environmental impacts and keep ahead of evolving global chemical regulations, Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, is embracing water-based OEKO-TEX 100 Class 1 Standard Printing Inks in their manufacturing process.

Common and inexpensive inks used in the global manufacture of apparel contain a wide range of toxic chemicals, including phthalates, petroleum-based co-solvents, PVC, and other volatile organic compounds. AAG’s initiative to use OEKO-TEX approved, water-based inks creates benefits for factory workers, people living local to these factories, consumers, and everyone downstream.

AAG offers a range of printing methods to address a variety of customer needs, including:  digital printing, screen printing, and heat transfers for on-garment logos and care instructions. OEKO-TEX certified water-based inks are used for all of its digital printing and for the majority of its screen printing. These non-toxic water-based inks offer a socially and environmentally better alternative to the more commonly used Plastisol inks.

Making a sizable environmental impact, the printing service of AAG’s business is significant. Digital printing averages 25,000 meters per month with screen printing averaging 60,000 garments per month.

The use of water-based inks requires a skilled production team and training of employees is ongoing. AAG currently employs 30 people at its printing operations in Ningbo, China.

Bemberg™, a brand of cupro fibre by Asahi Kasei Corporation, Japan, announces its collaboration with luxury couture label Anita Dongre to unveil the ‘Azure’ collection.

Anita Dongre, known for her timeless elegance and commitment to sustainability, has integrated Bemberg™ yarn into the ‘Azure’ collection, symbolizing a dedication to responsible fashion practices. Bemberg™ yarn, sourced from Asahi Kasei in Japan, embodies luxury and environmental responsibility.

The ‘Azure’ collection captures the serene essence of the sea, evoking the tranquil ebb and flow of waves against a backdrop of pristine skies. With soft hues and delicate color palettes, the collection introduces a fresh, breezy aesthetic, featuring flowy dresses, kaftans, and elegant sets designed to elevate the simplicity of spring-summer fashion.

With the aim to help the denim industry reduce the environmental impact of its wastewater and move towards circularity, Archroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim have renewed their joint commitment to the production of aniline-free denim apparel based on Archroma’s DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30.

Their joint aim is to produce high-quality denim in authentic blue shades without the aniline impurity carried through from the synthesis of standard synthetic indigo. In traditional denim production, this aniline remains bound with the indigo pigment on the fabric; the remaining aniline is discharged during the dyeing and washing process. This can be a problem because aniline is toxic to aquatic life and two-thirds of aniline waste currently ends up in wastewater discharge where it could potentially pollute waterways and the ocean.

Archroma developed DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 to answer this key challenge. A 30% pre-reduced indigo solution, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 makes it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without aniline impurities throughout the process.

Easy to use with automated dosing, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 reduces the water needed for preparation, washing and wastewater treatment compared to indigo grains. It also reduces hazardous chemical consumption while allowing high reproducibility and creating the authentic and iconic deep indigo shades traditionally associated with denim.

G-Star RAW is working towards making 20% of its entire collection from Cradle to Cradle Certified® fabrics by 2025. Its partnership with Archroma and Advance Denim contributes to this goal, since the aniline-free DENISOL® holds a Gold Level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 is also compliant with other eco-standards and the requirements of leading retailers and brands.

Advance Denim, G-Star RAW and Archroma have previously collaborated to launch collections based on Archroma’s EarthColors® technology, which upcycles plant waste from the herbal industry to create sustainable colorways.