From the Sector

Polyester has been the cornerstone of the textile printing industry for decades. Its compatibility with the digital sublimation process—a cost-effective, simple technology—has driven exponential growth in polyester printing. However, the very characteristics that make polyester well suited for sublimation printing render this printing technique unsuitable for other materials, such as cotton and some blended fibres, leaving a significant gap in the market.

This gap was, until recently, partially filled by direct-to-textile printing. However, this method requires substantial initial investments in equipment and heavily relies on the time- and resource-consuming pre- and post-processing of fabrics to ensure colourfastness, colour accuracy, and compatibility with different substrates. Consequently, a need arose for a more sustainable and cost-effective solution that could cater to a wider range of textiles.

In response to this demand, Mimaki spent six years developing a breakthrough technology, TRAPIS, a simple two-step textile transfer printing solution, consisting of only an inkjet printer and a high-pressure calender. The design of choice is printed by the inkjet printer onto the company’s groundbreaking Texcol® pigment ink transfer paper. This is then transferred to the application via the calender.

Entirely removing the treatment stages means that printing on non-polyester materials has gone from an expensive and time-consuming task to one that is simple, cost-efficient and more sustainable.

Ideal for home textiles and soft signage which often require vibrant colours but varied materials, this technology gives printers the ability to print on a wide variety of materials, including natural fibres like cotton and silk without losing stretchability or colourfastness. All this can be done with just one type of ink, making the process flexible and adaptable to customer demands.  

The pre-treatment and washing of the fabric is often needed in digital dye printing, producing a significant amount of wastewater in the process. TRAPIS eliminates those stages altogether and is almost entirely waterless, saving around 14.5 litres per square metre of water, an almost 90% decrease in comparison to digital dye printing .

Additionally, this eliminates the need for wastewater treatment facilities, which can be both expensive and constrictive when it comes to where the solution is installed.

Monforts recently celebrated its 140th anniversary at a special event for staff and their families at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany. Building on a rich history since its foundation by August Monforts in 1884, the company remains 100% dedicated to the development of technologies that will ensure the future success of its textile industry customers.

Under the motto, ‘140 Years of Performance, Innovation and Partners’, Monforts is looking forward to further celebrating this milestone with its representatives and customers at the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Shanghai from October 14-18, in Hall 5 at stand C09.

The first Monforts machines were mechanical napping units for raising the surfaces of cotton fabrics, providing softness and warmth and adding value. By 1893, Monforts 24-roller napping machines were drawing appreciative crowds at the World Fair in Chicago – establishing international trade networks was paramount to the company from the outset.

In 1897, August Monforts established an iron foundry equipped with hydraulic casting machines, by which time the company employed 1,200 people. This was followed by the introduction of semi-automatic manufacturing tools – an area in which Monforts achieved a number of firsts, such as the single-spindle lathe which became a big export hit in the late 1930s due to its unique and unmatched precision.

Overseen by successive four generations of the Monforts family, the company’s range of textile machines has been significantly expanded based on decades of accumulated know-how and a dominant position in fabric finishing technologies has been established.

Since 2013, Monforts has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s Group, today one of the world’s largest textile machinery manufacturers.

Since its opening in 2013, the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach has proved a valuable resource to customers for achieving new standards in fabric finishing.

Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials.

“The ATC allows our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says Monforts Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.”

A collaboration that unites Monforts’ dyeing and finishing equipment, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4™ digital spray technology and Archroma’s chemistries towards sustainable solutions is charting the course for the future of sustainable textile finishing.

Together, the three companies will support dyeing and finishing manufacturers, a critical part of the textile supply chain, in their development projects, boosting the quality and performance of their finished products, while at the same time maximizing the productivity and resource utilization of the finishing application process.  

Kicking off the partnership in the second half of this year, Monforts will install BW Converting’s full-width Baldwin TexCoat digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our ATC already houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” explained Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve.”
 
TexCoat G4 revolutionizes the traditional water- and energy-intensive pad-dry-cure finishing process by precisely applying chemistry including softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants, resins and most other water-based chemicals across the textile surface only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The system can therefore reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

The TexCoat G4 installation brings together the surface functions, fabric transport and thermal processing technology of Monforts stenter frames with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, applied with TexCoat’s contactless precision, to achieve optimum absorption and maximum efficacy, exceeding the performance of traditional pad applications.

“Archroma’s commitment to advancing sustainability solutions for technical textiles has led to a pivotal partnership with Baldwin, where the benefits of contactless precision spray combined with our innovative solutions have helped textile manufacturers achieve greater energy and water savings,” said Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Segment Manager for Technical Textiles, Archroma Textile Effects. “We are thrilled to take the partnership to the next level with the integration of a renowned equipment expert. Together, we will bring the best of our expertise in sustainable technologies to our customers around the world.”

“Baldwin has enjoyed a great relationship with Monforts and Archroma over the last few years,” added Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles “Individually, we are working hard to assist our customers to achieve their sustainability and environmental targets but this is the first time the three companies have committed to working together with a focus on bringing transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space. It will result in significantly lower energy, chemical and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.  We strongly believe that this partnership will be greater than the sum of its parts.”

Beyond textile finishing, Monforts, Baldwin and Archroma will work together to develop a versatile offering that will include coloration concepts and in the not-too-distant future the partners additionally plan to expand their collaboration to continuous spray dye applications developed by Baldwin.

International technology group ANDRITZ supplied and recently commissioned a tearing line at Sealy Australia’s mattress manufacturing plant in Brisbane. Versatile technology enables Sealy to recycle post-consumer and post-industrial textile waste in one line.

Sealy is a leading Australian manufacturer of high-quality mattresses, producing 1,000 mattresses per day at its Brisbane plant. To replace some of the virgin fiber feedstock with more sustainable recycled fibers, the company installed an ANDRITZ tearing line at the plant.

The ANDRITZ reXline tearing can process up to 1,200 kg/h of cotton denim waste and up to 800 kg/h of quilt waste. The 6-cylinder Exel module allows flexible switching between the two types of material. The combination of the reXline and the ANDRITZ airfelt line, which has been in operation at the Brisbane plant since 2008, enables Sealy to process large amounts of waste into new mattresses ready for sale around the world.

“With our new line, we are taking a significant step towards circularity by making new mattresses from textile waste that would otherwise be burnt or landfilled,” says Shaun Guest, Fiber Plant Factory Manager of Sealy Australia.”