From the Sector

• Sonderausstellung im LVR-Industriemuseum Tuchfabrik Müller

Geschmeidige Felle, exotische Federn, schillernde Perlen – die Pracht und Schönheit der Tierwelt hat Menschen seit jeher fasziniert und Sehnsüchte geweckt. Je seltener ein Pelz oder eine Perle, umso mehr wurden sie begehrt, um sich selbst damit zu schmücken. Dafür wurden Tiere in aller Welt gejagt, getötet und sogar ausgerottet. Ihre Häute, Panzer oder Zähne wurden zu lukrativer Handelsware für Kleidung und Mode. Sie erfüllten Frauen und Männern den Wunsch nach Luxus und nach Abgrenzung, sie dienten der Erotik und versprachen einer ganzen Industrie gute Geschäfte. Die Ausstellung „Modische Raubzüge - Von Luxus, Lust und Leid. 1800 bis heute“ widmet sich vom 5. März 2023 bis zum 7. Januar 2024 in der Tuchfabrik Müller in Euskirchen diesem Thema.

Die Ausstellung beleuchtet mehr als 200 Jahre dieses besonderen Ausschnitts der Kulturgeschichte der Mode und macht die unmittelbare Konfrontation von Mensch und Tier erlebbar. Zu sehen sind auf mehr als 500 Quadratmetern über 250 Objekte aus der museumseigenen Textilsammlung und von verschiedenen Leihgeber*innen. Hinzu kommen historische Bilder und Filme. Ergänzt wird die Ausstellung durch eine Präsentation von Arbeiten des Berliner Künstlers Oliver Mark aus der Serie „Natura Morta“. Sie zeigen Fotografien von illegal gehandelten und nach Deutschland geschmuggelten Objekten. Diese Tierpräparate, aus tierischen Materialien gefertigte Kleidungsstücke sowie Accessoires, wurden vom Zoll beschlagnahmt und sind seitdem in der Asservatenkammer des Bundesamts für Naturschutz in Bonn gelagert.

„Das Verhältnis von Mensch und Tier zu untersuchen – in unserem Falle anhand von Bekleidung und Mode – das geht nur, wenn man sowohl historische Zeugnisse als auch die gegenwärtige Gesellschaft in den Blick nimmt“ erklärt Dr. Dennis Niewerth, Leiter der Tuchfabrik Müller. „Daher ist das Publikum eingeladen, in die Vergangenheit einzutauchen, die Ausstellung bietet aber auch einen Blick auf die Gegenwart und regt an, über den eigenen Kleidungskonsum nachzudenken und mit anderen Besucher*innen ins Gespräch zu kommen“ ergänzt Niewerth.

Monatlich werden öffentliche Führungen angeboten und an verschiedenen Terminen sind Interessierte zu abendlichen Rundgängen eingeladen.

Hologenix announces that CELLIANT® with REPREVE®, a performance fiber made from recycled materials and enhanced with IR technology, has been shortlisted for the Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2023 Awards. Introduced with global textile solutions provider UNIFI® makers of REPREVE®, CELLIANT with REPREVE is honored in the Sustainable Textile Innovation Category of the awards.

The Drapers Awards recognize the strides that are being made in reducing the industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain. According to Drapers the quality and quantity of entries were higher than ever this year. Judging was underpinned by the UN-backed Sustainable Development Goals. Winners will be announced at a ceremony on May 25, 2023 at The Brewery in London.

This recognition is the second award for CELLIANT with REPREVE since its launch in the fall of 2022 – it was previously named a Selection in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2024/25. This is also the second year in a row that a Hologenix innovation has been shortlisted for the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards.

CELLIANT is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, which, when embedded into textiles, allows them to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local circulation and cellular oxygenation. This aids significantly in muscle recovery, increases endurance and improves overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.

REPREVE recycled performance fiber consists of high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and pre-consumer waste. It is also certified and traceable with UNIFI’s U TRUST® verification and FiberPrint™ technology, which provide assurance that the product comes from recycled materials. Compared to virgin fiber, REPREVE helps to offset the use of petroleum, conserving water and energy and emitting fewer greenhouse gasses.

Kelheim Fibres, a leading manufacturer of viscose speciality fibres, has joined Recycling Atelier Augsburg. Recycling Atelier Augsburg is a unique centre for research and development in the field of textile recycling. It is located at the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg an affiliated institute of Augsburg University of Applied Sciences. The two institutions founded the Recycling Atelier in June 2022 together with twelve partners from the German textile industry.

In the Recycling Atelier, the focus is on the triad of technical and ecological sense as well as economic benefit. In this way, the partners of the Recycling Atelier are standing up against fast fashion, outsourced corporate responsibility and a general decline in raw material quality, which often fuels downcycling - the low-quality reuse - of materials.

As a model factory, the Recycling Atelier Augsburg combines the most important processes of textile recycling and offers holistic and comprehensive research along the value chain," explains Georg Stegschuster, head of the Recycling Atelier Augsburg. The scientists research on all process steps of textile recycling: from material analysis to sorting, preparation and textile processing to sustainable product design. Comprehensive data collection and the use of artificial intelligence as well as innovative materials play a central role.

Kelheim Fibres is a producer of high-quality viscose fibres, which consist of cellulose, the main component of the renewable raw material wood, and are used worldwide for products in areas such as hygiene, textiles, and technical applications.

"In New Business Development as well as Fibre and Application Development, we follow the Open Innovation concept - the cooperation with the Recycling Atelier offers us an ideal platform for this. Here we work with partners to advance sustainability and performance," explains Maik Thiel, project manager at Kelheim Fibres.

Recycled cotton fibres are often very short or of uneven length, which makes further processing of 100 % recycled material a challenge. Adding speciality fibres from Kelheim Fibres should enable the production of high-quality new products, such as nonwovens. In the future, the fibres provided by Kelheim Fibres will also be made from recycled pulp.

• At end 2022, Carbios has 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families for its innovation in enzymatic recycling of PET plastics and fibers, and its PLA biodegradation technology
• Carbios’ team of Intellectual Property experts is dedicated to protecting its innovations

 
Carbios has doubled its number of issued patents since the last review published at the end of 2020. Carbios (and its subsidiary Carbiolice) currently holds 336 titles worldwide divided into 53 patent families.  In 2022, several titles protecting the proprietary PET-degrading enzymes were granted in countries of interest such as the United States and also in Asian countries including Indonesia, South Korea, China, Japan and India.  Carbios has also obtained grants within its patent families protecting the biodegradable plastics production process, notably the masterbatch containing the enzyme or its production process.
 
Carbios is expanding its intellectual property portfolio in regions and countries where there is strong demand for its disruptive technologies, notably :

• in Europe: 40 European titles, which could be granted in the 39 member states of the European Patent Organization
• in North America: 41 titles in the United States and 23 in Canada
• in Asia: 152 titles, including 37 in China, 27 in Japan and 24 in India

Carbios also has 14 patent applications that may be extended to other countries or regions of the world in the coming years.

“Over the past two years, we have mainly focused on strengthening the protection of our PET biorecycling process and its proprietary enzymes,” commented Lise LUCCHESI, Director of Intellectual Property at Carbios. “For the coming years, we will continue to consolidate the protection of this process, and that of our PLA biodegradation process, by filing new patent applications. We will also actively follow up on our filed patent applications in order to obtain granted patents.”
 
“Since the beginning of Carbios, the R&D and Intellectual Property departments have worked hand in hand to ensure maximum protection of our enzymes and processes,” commented Alain Marty, Chief Scientific Officer at Carbios.  “These continued efforts to obtain extensive international protection are crucial to safeguard our innovations and ensure the industrial deployment of our technologies.”

Textile waste is a problem in Europe. Out of 7-7.5 million tonnes of textiles discarded every year, 30-35 % are collected separately – and of that quantity, 15-20 % are sorted by medium and larger sorting facilities within the EU. After sorting, 60 % still qualify as wearable clothes, however after a second or third collection-loop, all of the textiles become non-wearable sooner or later. Therefore, fibre-to-fibre recycling is becoming increasingly important to preserve the valuable resources.
 
The textile recycling value chain is not yet mature, but we are on the verge of a turning point, as different fibre-recycling technologies are deployed on a large scale. If successful, the textile recycling industry could reach a recycling rate of 18 to 26 percent of gross textile waste in 2030. This would create economic, social and environmental value that could total 3.5 to 4.5 billion euros in 2030.

Today, there is a sorting gap to achieve a circular economy for textiles in Europe. To feed this new circular value chain, a significant sorting-capacity increase is needed with 150 to 250 sorting and recycling facilities nearby, as the McKinsey-study “turning waste into value” assessed.

There is also a technology and capacity gap in sorting for reuse and recycling to ensure that high quality raw materials from non-wearable textile waste can be made available on a large scale. This is why the “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” project was initiated by TEXAID, within the ReHubs initiative together with well-known stakeholders of the textile value chain.

The major outcome of this project will be a sorting-factory blueprint fulfilling the requirements to the future needs of fibre-to-fibre recycling, enabling the future of more sustainable textiles by using recycled fibres. TEXAID, who is leading the project, is committed to build and operate scalable sorting facilities across Europe, the first with a capacity of 50,000 tonnes by the end of 2024.

Companies like Concordia, CuRe Technology, Decathlon, Inditex, Indorama Ventures, L’Atelier des Matières, Lenzing, Marchi & Fildi, PurFi, Södra, Worn Again and others are taking part in the project to jointly evaluate technologies and the business case for scaled sorting for reuse and recycling. ITA Academy GmbH (in cooperation with RWTH Aachen) together with CETIA has been commissioned for the assessment of technologies. The outcome will be an innovative sorting system 4.0, building on cross-functional technologies with digitalization and automation are at the heart.

100 days before ITMA 2023 in Milan, VDMA Textile Machinery launched its “Way2ITMA” webinar series. “Transforming the World of Textiles: efficient – digital – circular”. Under this heading, VDMA technology providers will present their solutions along the value chain.

Speakers of the virtual event were Dr. Janpeter Horn, Chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and Managing Director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik, Dirk Vantyghem, Director General, EURATEX, Francis Elias Junker, Area Sales Manager, Andritz Laroche and Tanja Karila, Chief Marketing Officer, Infinited Fiber Company.

With regard to the EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles, Dr. Horn said: “This topic concerns all of us, consumers and producers. We as machinery builders position ourselves as enablers. We want to be part of the solution of this ambitious project”.

Dirk Vantyghem introduced the core issues of the EU textile strategy launched in 2022, which is the most ambitious plan ever, to push the textile sector towards sustainability and transparency, and promote a new circular business model. If wrongly designed, that new framework may collapse the European textile value chain. But if done rightly, the changes ahead could bring a paradigm shift in the sector, where competitiveness is no longer based on price only, but also on sustainability and innovation, explained Vantyghem.

Francis Elias Junker showed high level of expertise for mechanical textile recycling for both spinning and nonwovens industries that Andritz has. The company has a diversity of solutions to offer and several cooperation partners, covering the value chain from recovery of fiber to the chemical modification and preparation for the production of yarn.

Tanja Karila gave an overview of how Infinited Fiber is turning textile waste into new fibers. Patented technology turns post-consumer textile waste into brand new premium quality fibers for the textile industry. The textile-to-textile recycling technology captures the value in waste that would otherwise be landfilled or burned.

• Mittelstand 4.0-Kompetenzzentrum Textil vernetzt planmäßig beendet
• Neues Mittelstand-Zentrum soll Unternehmen mit konkreten Ideen bei Digitalisierung und Nachhaltigkeit unterstützen

Das Mittelstand-Digital Zentrum Smarte Kreisläufe gehört zu Mittelstand-Digital. Mit dem Mittelstand-Digital Netzwerk unterstützt das Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Klimaschutz die Digitalisierung in kleinen und mittleren Unternehmen und dem Handwerk.

Das Netzwerk bietet mit den Mittelstand-Digital Zentren, der Initiative IT-Sicherheit in der Wirtschaft und Digital Jetzt umfassende Unterstützung bei der Digitalisierung. Kleine und mittlere Unternehmen profitieren von konkreten Praxisbeispielen und passgenauen, anbieterneutralen Angeboten zur Qualifikation und IT-Sicherheit. Das Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Klimaschutz ermöglicht die kostenfreie Nutzung und stellt finanzielle Zuschüsse bereit. Weitere Informationen finden Sie unter www.mittelstand-digital.de.

Unter der Federführung des Gesamtverbandes textil+mode werden gemeinsam mit den Partnern Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung Denkendorf (DITF), Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen University (ITA), Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut (STFI) und DER MITTELSTANDSVERBUND – ZGV kleine und mittlere Unternehmen bei der Einführung zukunftsrelevanter digitaler Technologien begleitet. Themen sind u.a. hohe Energie- und Rohstoffkosten, neue gesetzliche Regelungen in den Bereichen Lieferketten und Kreislaufwirtschaft, Arbeiten auf digitalen Plattformen und eine bedarfsgerechte Qualifikation der Belegschaft

Geschäftsführerin Anja Merker sieht das Thema Digitalisierung in den Unternehmen angekommen. „Künstliche Intelligenz, Robotik oder Blockchain sind keine Fremdwörter mehr. Eingeschränkte Ressourcen und fehlendes Personal, das in diesem Bereich entsprechend ausgebildet ist, verzögern aber gerade in kleinen und mittleren Betrieben die konkrete Anwendung. Hier wollen wir Unternehmen in Zukunft unterstützen, betriebsinterne Abläufe effizienter zu gestalten und die Unternehmen fit für Digitalisierung und Nachhaltigkeit zu machen.“

Gemeinsam mit unseren Konsortialpartnern und den Partnern im Mittelstand-Digital Netzwerk werde man zusammen mit den Unternehmen passende Lösungen für nachhaltige, kreislauffähige Prozesse und neue digitale Geschäftsmodelle entwickeln, damit die aktuellen Herausforderungen gemeistert werden können. Dazu gehörten Machbarkeitsstudien zu potenziellen Lösungssystemen ebenso wie Prototypen für konkrete Anwendungsmöglichkeiten neuer Technologien oder Qualifizierungsangebote für Mitarbeiterinnen und Mitarbeiter.

Geplant ist darüber hinaus ein standortübergreifender Demonstrator, der beispielhaft einen transparenten Nachweis entlang der Lieferkette von der Faser bis zum Endkunden ermöglicht sowie ein Quick-Check-Tool, mit dem Mittelständler dabei unterstützt werden sollen, ihre Risiken in der Lieferkette schnell einzuschätzen und einen ersten Überblick über ihren ökologischen Fußabdruck zu gewinnen.

AkzoNobel has published its digital Report 2022, which gives details of the company’s ongoing transformation during a challenging year of persistent worldwide uncertainty.

The Report 2022 website includes coverage of AkzoNobel’s financial results and key business developments, while the company’s progress on its sustainability ambitions is highlighted throughout.

The online report offers a wide range of interactive content and infographics. Visitors can also make use of various tools to compare key data and download tables.

Meanwhile, the Sustainability statements – traditionally one of the most visited sections – has been revamped and is themed around the key areas of climate change, circularity, and health and well-being. Several case studies also feature prominently.

• Technical innovation and natural fibres, for a broader definition of sustainability

The weaving collection further develops the themes that have emerged in recent seasons, interpreting them with a view to long-term sustainability.

In harmony with the Südwolle Group’s identity and values, research and technical innovation are combined with a high level of quality. Wools, almost all certified, are enriched by a significant level of performance that continues to evolve. The production process attempts to limit carbon footprint, as sustainability is the key principle guiding all the company’s choices.

The ability to offer yarns made from selected natural raw materials is in harmony with today’s sustainable buying habits, with a preference for garments and accessories that can be worn at any time of year. In contrast with the logic of fast fashion, today’s buyers, led by younger generations with a focus on the values behind their fashion choices, tend to choose items that can be expected to last longer, decreasing the environmental impact of textile wastes and throwaway fashion.

In casual wear too, the importance of comfort and feeling at ease is reconciled with the desire to wear items of good taste and quality. The new formalwear includes carefully cut garments made of materials guaranteeing fit, comfort and durability. A widespread focus on these factors makes for more conscientious, reasoned purchases, less subject to impulse buying.

Südwolle interprets the new interest in heritage, leading to the emergence of the phenomenon of quality second-hand, with a return to its core business and essentials, in a new sustainable version using certified fibres, chlorine-free anti-shrinkage treatments and long-lasting products that can be washed at home at low temperatures.

One of the most recent results of the company’s technical innovation is the new OTW® line of yarns for weaving produced using Omega Twist® technology, developed and patented by the Südwolle Group, producing yarns offering outstanding performance in terms of reduced pilling and greater elasticity, tenacity and durability.

Ab sofort können gewerbliche und private Kunden die in Europa hergestellte Berufskleidung von CWS Workwear in einem neuen Online-Shop erwerben.

CWS Workwear, übernimmt für Kunden neben der Bereitstellung der Arbeitskleidung auch das Waschen, Reparieren und die Lieferung der Textilien. Nun wird das Angebot um den Online-Shop cws-workwear-shop.com erweitert. Dort können Unternehmen und Privatpersonen ausgewählte Kollektionen von CWS Workwear für Handwerk und Industrie aus nachhaltigen, langlebigen Materialien wie Fairtrade-Baumwolle oder recyceltem Polyester kaufen.

„Der Shop bietet Interessierten einen einfachen Zugang zu unserer CWS-Arbeitskleidung – Unternehmen wie Privatkunden gleichermaßen. Gleichzeitig möchten wir so unsere Markenbekanntheit jenseits des B2B-Geschäfts weiter steigern“, erklärt Hartmut Engler, CEO von CWS Workwear, den Eintritt ins B2C-Geschäft. Der Anbieter für Arbeitskleidung öffnet sein Angebot somit erstmals für Privatkunden, denn bislang war die CWS-Arbeitskleidung nur von Unternehmen über einen Servicevertrag erhältlich.

Produktion in Eigenregie
Die Arbeitskleidung wird von CWS-Designern entworfen und in Europa in Eigenregie produziert. Es handelt sich um Arbeitskleidung aus verantwortungsvoller Herkunft und Verarbeitung, die langlebig und nachhaltig ist. „Wir testen unsere Kleidung sehr umfassend vor der Einführung und unterziehen sie umfangreichen Waschtests, damit sie lange gut sitzt, aussieht und vor allem hält. Das ist für unser Servicegeschäft wichtig und davon profitieren nun auch die Shop-Kunden“, so Engler zur Qualität der Kleidung. Der Shop richtet sich aktuell nur an Kunden in Deutschland, aber wird mittelfristig auf weitere Länder erweitert. Ebenso wird das Sortiment für noch mehr Auswahl weiter ausgebaut.