From the Sector

• Revenues: 239.6 million euros (-4%)*
• EBITDA before non-recurring items: 35.3 million euros (-21%)*
• Net income: 13.9 million euros (-31%)
• Free cash flow before non-recurring items: 16.6 million euros (+13%)

Lectra’s Board of Directors, chaired by Daniel Harari, reviewed the consolidated financial statements for the first half of 2023, which have been subject to a limited review by the Statutory Auditors.

Comparisons between 2023 and 2022 are based on 2022 exchange rates unless otherwise stated (“like-for-like”). As the impact of the acquisition of TextileGenesis (see press release dated December 8, 2022) on the financial statements for 2023 is not material, like-for-like changes exclude only the variations in exchange rates.

Business Trends and Outlook
In its 2022 Annual Financial Report, published February 8, 2023, Lectra presented its new roadmap for 2023-2025. The Group also specified that 2023 remained unpredictable given the degraded macroeconomic and geopolitical environment, which lead to numerous uncertainties that could continue to weigh upon the investment decisions of its customers.

At the beginning of the year, the Group had set itself objectives of achieving, in 2023, revenues in the range of 522 to 576 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 90 to 113 million euros.

Given the delay in orders for new systems in the first quarter, and poor visibility on new systems orders for subsequent quarters, the Group reported on April 27 that it now anticipated revenues in the range of 485 to 525 million euros (-5% to +3% at constant exchange rates relative to 2022) and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 78 to 95 million euros (-15% to +3% at constant exchange rates relative to 2022). The Group also noted that despite limited visibility regarding new systems orders over the next few quarters, there is strong visibility regarding recurring revenues, which should enjoy substantial growth and account for 65% of total revenues in 2023. These revised scenarios had been prepared on the basis of the closing exchange rates on April 27, 2023, for the remaining nine months of the year, and particularly $1.10/€1.

The results of the second quarter support these revised objectives.

A 1-cent appreciation of the euro against the U.S. dollar in the second half of the year (at an exchange rate of $1.10/€1) would mechanically decrease revenues by approximately 1.0 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items by 0.45 million euros. On the contrary, a 1-cent fall in the euro against the dollar would mechanically raise revenues and EBITDA before non-recurring items by the same amounts.

Because the Group's customers operate in a highly competitive environment that demands they continue to improve performance, their investments will pick up as soon as the macroeconomic situation improves. Lectra's roadmap for 2023-2025, which was launched on January 1, 2023, will enable the Group to take full advantage of the upturn and accelerate its growth.

Die Spezialisten in der Hutbranche sind zufrieden bzw. sehr zufrieden mit dem ersten Halbjahr 2023. Nach der schwierigen, wetterbedingten Situation im Frühling, entwickelten sich der Juni und auch der Juli sensationell gut. Wichtigstes Verkaufsthema war der UV-Schutz für den Kopf. Laut Blitz-Umfrage des Hutverbandes GDH erzielte der Deutsche Hutfachhandel ein Umsatzplus in Höhe von 9,4 % im Vergleich zum Vorjahreshalbjahr. Vor allem der stationäre Umsatz war dafür verantwortlich, zu Lasten des Onlineverkaufs.

„Die meisten unserer Mitglieder haben die Umsätze von vor Corona getoppt. Das ist sehr erfreulich“, bestätigt Angela Breiter, Vorsitzende der Gemeinschaft deutsche Hutfachgeschäfte e.V. (GDH). Die Mitinhaberin des traditionsreichen Hut- und Modeunternehmens Breiter in München leitet seit zwei Jahren den Hutverband, der vor 70 Jahren gegründet wurde.
 
Hutbranche traf sich zum Messe-Get-together in Düsseldorf
„Der Termin in Düsseldorf ist genau richtig für unsere Branche, um sich zu informieren “, so Angela Breiter. „Wir können an einem Ort die wichtigsten Lieferanten besuchen, können Partnerschaften vertiefen und haben eine gute Trendanalyse über das Angebot und lernen noch neue Lieferanten kennen.“ Siegfried Seidl (Hut Mayer, Neuötting), Vize-Vorsitzender der GDH, fügt hinzu: „Erfreulicherweise sind die Preissteigerungen durch Energie-, Logistik- und gestiegenen Personalkosten der letzten Jahre vorerst gebremst. Einige Lieferanten sind kreativ, zum Beispiel durch Paper-Panamas, um die enorm gestiegenen, wenn auch faireren Preisen, im Bereich Panama auszugleichen, denn die werden in Ecuador in Wochen und Monaten in Handarbeit hergestellt. Nicht jede Kundin oder jeder Kunde kann sich einen Panamahut von 150 oder mehr Euro leisten.“
 
Trend-Thema: Funktion in allen Facetten
Leger und unkompliziert praktisch muss es für die Träger sein. Viele Qualitäten sind weich oder rollbar und bleiben auch aus dem Koffer oder aus der Tasche gezogen in Form. Wasserfeste Hüte kommen als Trilbys und Mützen daher oder als hippe Traveller für die Streetwork-Szene und nicht zuletzt als knallige Regenhütte in Lack. Mega-Thema ist UV-Schutz. Der Schutz vor zu viel Sonne wird aufgrund des Klimawandels mit steigenden Temperaturen immer wichtiger. Zahlreiche Lieferanten bieten zertifizierte UV-Schutz bis zu 80 an. Das erlaubt einen bis zu 80-mal längeren Aufenthalt in der Sonne. „Ein bedeutendes Umsatzthema für den Sommer“, betont Angela Breiter. „Wir als Verband unterstützen unsere Mitglieder mit einer erfolgreichen UV-Schutzkampagne für den POS.“

Trend-Thema: Materialien, Muster und Farbe
Sommerhüte in Stroh oder Strohborte werden durch weiches Raffia in allen Formen und Farben ergänzt, auch wenn Naturtöne das stärkste Verkaufsthema sind. Seidig, edel und komfortabel zu tragen sind Mützen aus Seide; verschiede Lieferanten haben das Thema neben Leinen und Baumwolle ausgebaut. Karos, Streifen, Mustermix, Patchwork: Alles ist möglich. Super leicht und dennoch robust und zudem nachhaltig, weil nachwachsend, ist Hanf. Ein Thema, das jetzt auch verstärkt in der Herrenhutmode umgesetzt wird. Generell ist Nachhaltigkeit von Bedeutung und findet sich in den Stoffen oder Futter aus recycelten oder ökologischen Materialien wider.

The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) has joined the Zurich-headquartered International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) – revitalising a historic connection and reflecting an increased push to expand the international reach of UK companies.

The announcement was made at the ITMA 2023 textile machinery exhibition in Milan from June 8-14.

“We are pleased to welcome the BTMA as our latest association member and look forward to a long and fruitful partnership going forward,” said ITMF Director General Dr Christian Schindler. “The ITMF was actually headquartered in Manchester in the UK up until the 1960s, so we share long-standing roots. Today, ITMF members are from across the entire textile supply chain which enables them to gain a better understanding of the full complexity and dynamics of the industry and to fully respond to the opportunities and challenges it faces.”

Riri, which became part of Oerlikon Group on March 1, presents its FW 24-25 collection, which embraces plastic and metal trends.

Metal Trends: GALACTIC SHINE, TEXTURIZED BLACK and AMBER GLAZE
As a result of joining the Oerlikon Group, specializing in surface engineering, polymer processing, and additive manufacturing, Riri is accelerating its transition to new processes related to surface treatments, particularly the PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) technology, a physical process that significantly reduces impacts on the environment. PVD processes can be appreciated particularly on sliders and buttons where gold and shiny black finishes stand out. Silver textures, science fiction-inspired surfaces and shapes, and glossy, brushed finishes in shades of gray and very light gold: GALACTIC SHINE brings to earth a sidereal experience, witness from a journey where the atmosphere becomes rarefied and elegance takes shape among metalized leather tapes, gold PVD pullers, organic cotton, and gleaming inox. Black also shines in the TEXTURIZED BLACK selection, in tone-on-tone contrasts that create plays of light and shadow, thanks to metallic effects, glossy black PVD treatments, tapes and galvanic in shades of black. The atmosphere becomes warmer by varying on amber tones, the absolute protagonists of the AMBER GLAZE mood, which offers a different interpretation of elegance through bright amber tones, rose gold, diamond prints and geometric patterns.

Plastic Trends: GHOSTLY ICE and SPRAY VANISHED
GHOSTLY ICE features accessories that refer to the skiing theme, offering an algid beauty made up of transparent surfaces and icy effects, a theme in which the sustainability of mono-materials coexists with the elegance of the end result. The color inspirations are totally different, but sustainability and elegance remain unchanged in the SPRAY VANISHED zipper selection, in which vibrant multicolored effects communicate joy and vitality through iridescent PVD effects and the use of recycled materials, such as the polyamide of the patented B.Lock button.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan has launched its “SHIMA HelpCenter” customer support site. SHIMA HelpCenter integrates Help, FAQ, Operation Manual, and Glossary functions for SHIMA SEIKI products, and supports cross-content keyword search to improve user convenience. In addition, video content provides easy-to-understand explanations of various product functions, as smart solutions to questions and problems that may arise during product use. With support for smartphones and tablets, our product users can use the service anytime, anywhere. Operation manuals that were previously provided in printed form are being converted to the online version in order to provide services more efficiently in an environmentally friendly, sustainable, and convenient manner.

SHIMA online is a web service platform which features “APEXFiz®” design software subscription service, “yarnbank®” digital yarn sourcing service, “SHIMA Datamall™” digital content service, “SHIMANAVI®” e-learning system and “SHIMA KnitManager™” knit production management software, all of which are designed to improve operational efficiency and create attractive and sustainable products. With a SHIMA online account, both SHIMA HelpCenter and SHIMA Datamall can be accessed using the same ID.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced that registration and tabletop exhibit reservations are open for the ninth edition of Hygienix™, November 13-16, New Orleans, Louisiana. More than 450 absorbent hygiene and personal care professionals from around the world will gather for four days of networking, presentations, and business opportunities.
 
The theme for this year’s Hygienix is “Shaping the Future of Absorbent Hygiene.” The event will focus on the market’s continued growth with presentations on sustainability, technology advancements, disruptive small brands, and market data and trends. Hygienix will also offer a workshop on absorbent hygiene systems led by Jim Robinson, Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC, Monday, November 13^th. The full Hygienix program will be announced at a later date.
 
INDA is also introducing a new element for Hygienix – pre-conference webinars. Carlos Richer, Principal, Diaper Testing International, will present insights and trends in diaper design in the U.S. market and Heidi Beatty, CEO, Crown Abbey, LLC, will share her expertise in the absorbent hygiene sector.
 
More than 50 companies will showcase their innovations and technologies during the evening tabletop exhibits and receptions. Participants will be able to discuss their needs with technical leaders and source better solutions for their products, Nov. 14-15.
 
Nominations are being accepted through August 7th for the Hygienix Innovation Award™. Three finalists will be selected to present their absorbent hygiene products on Tuesday, November 14^th to hundreds of senior-level professionals. The winner of the Award will be announced at the end of the event, Thursday, November 1^6th.

According to preliminary figures for H1 2023, SGL Carbon's Group sales increased year-on-year from €549.8 million to €560.5 million, with EBITDApre¹ almost unchanged at €88.0 million (H1 2022: €87.9 million). The expected good business performance of the Business Unit Graphite Solutions and the better-than-expected sales and earnings development of the segments Process Technology and Composite Solutions compensated the drop in demand in the Business Unit Carbon Fibers.

Graphite Solutions (GS) increased sales by 15.3% year-on-year to €280.6 million and EBITDApre by 20.6% to €65.1 million. With a 30.9% rise in sales (€64.4 million) and a significant improvement in EBITDApre from €4.1 million to €11.9 million, the business performance of Process Technology (PT) was significantly ahead of the original budget. Composite Solutions (CS) also reported a higher-than-expected sales increase of 14.4% to €79.6 million in H1 2023 and an increase in EBITDApre of 26.8% to €12.3 million compared to H1 last year. By contrast, the business performance of the Carbon Fibers (CF) unit was not in line with expectations, with a 28.9% decline in sales to €125.1 million and an EBITDApre contribution of €6.1 million (-78.4% compared to the 1st half of the previous year).

An important market segment of the Carbon Fibers Business Unit is the wind industry. Demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry has declined sharply since the beginning of the year. According to current estimates, the expected recovery in demand in H2 2023 will not materialize for the time being. SGL Carbon expects customer demand from the wind industry to pick up in 2024.

Based on this, an impairment loss of between €40-50 million will be recognized on the assets of the Carbon Fibers Business Unit as of June 30, 2023. The impairment relates exclusively to Carbon Fibers, the operating business of the other Business Units is not affected.

SGL Carbon's equity ratio after the impairment as of June 30, 2023 is approximately 36% (December 31, 2022: 38.5%).

Further information on the first six months of fiscal year 2023 can be obtained from the half-year report, which will be published on August 3, 2023.

¹The definition of key figures used in this release is aligned to the Annual Report 2022.

Three strong women, each different from the other, but who have managed to leave their mark on the history and evolution of the female role, and despite living in different eras, have left an indelible mark on society: Madame De Pompadour, nicknamed Reinette, the favourite of King Louis XV, Luisa Amman, called Corè by the great poet Gabriele D'Annunzio, and the iconic Vivienne Westwood, Miss Viv.
The three women are the FOREVER ICONS chosen and celebrated Iluna, where each woman becomes the protagonist of a “traveling exhibition” that will accompany Iluna between events and fairs.

Reinette
The nickname "Reinette" belonged to Madame De Pompadour, the favourite of King Louis XV. She had a significant influence in politics, arts, and fashion, shaping the style of the first half of the 18th century. Beauty and grace are represented in a floral theme, featuring small romantic details that become opulent with the use of lurex and golden cords. The color palette is soft, muted, and powderyry.

Corè
Luisa Amman, born in the late 19th century into a wealthy bourgeois family, married at a young age and became Marchesa Casati. "Corè" is the endearing nickname given to her by her lover Gabriele D'Annunzio, inspired by Kore, the Queen of the Underworld. She was a patron of the arts, an eccentric and transgressive collector. This theme celebrates opulence, from peacock feathers to Liberty-style designs in deep colours and warm metallic glimmers. An innovative proposal for the theme is the pleating technique, achieved directly in the weaving process of the Ultralight jacquardtronic laces.

Miss Viv
Vivienne Westwood, an extraordinary protagonist with an intense and irreverent life. Her insights have forever marked fashion and transformed the general standards of dressing. Rock and rebellious, she drew inspiration from street trends, anticipating avant-garde movements. In the 1990s, she brought back Tartan, mixing it with sensual roses in a maximalism that went against the prevailing trends, featuring vibrant colours. At the beginning of the third millennium, she grasped the importance of preserving the planet and left us with a motto that is more urgent and relevant than ever: "Buy Less, Choose Well, Make it Last." Within this theme, there is a new GRS-certified print that saves water, applied to ultra-fine Lurex nets, which are also certified.

‘Best of Bangladesh’ -- the first ever sole ‘Made in Bangladesh’ show in Europe -- aims to open the doors for Europe to experience what the Bangladeshi industries has to offer.

As Bangladesh celebrates five decades of strong ties with Europe, in order to further strengthen the ties and deepen collaborations with the partners across Europe, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, supported by the Bangladesh Embassy in the Netherlands, is organizing the event in Amsterdam, Netherlands on September 4th and 5th, 2023.

The ‘Best of Bangladesh’ aims to serve as a dynamic platform to showcase the progress and potential across diverse sectors of Bangladesh economy, especially manufacturing.

A total of 40 Bangladeshi companies each of which is the country’s best from apparel, textile, leather, Agro, jute, handicrafts, pharmaceutical, light engineering, digital industry, FMCG and bicycle will showcase their sustainable and innovative products in the Best of Bangladesh.  

Bangladesh economy ranks as the world’s 37th largest now and it’s rapidly-expanding. The ‘Best of Bangladesh’ is being organized to accelerate interests and burgeoning engagements between the entrepreneurs and private sector entities on both European and Bangladeshi sides. The event has been structured to serve as a platform to showcase the multifaceted progress made and potential across diverse sectors of Bangladesh’s economy.

There will be an inaugural and 7 interactive panel sessions at the Best of Bangladesh on the topics ‘Bangladesh – Perspectives From An Emerging Economy’, ‘Bangladesh - Your Sustainable Sourcing Destination’, ‘Empowering the Future: Advancing Safety & Well-being for Garments Workforce in Bangladesh’, ‘Bangladesh Agro-Food: A Next Opportunity for Collaboration’, ‘Impact Investing - The Next Frontier’, ‘Sustainable Synergy: Circular Economy, Climate Action & Bangladesh’s Future’, and ‘Digitization and Digital Economy in Bangladesh’.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter recorded a significant increase in sales of 22.2% to CHF 758.2 million, despite some cancellations or postponements of deliveries as a result of the earthquake in Türkiye. Cyclical market downturns in the individual market segments, which were already apparent in the second half of 2022, led to an order intake of CHF 325.0 million (-62.6%) in the reporting period, lower than in the corresponding period of the previous year.

Order intake in almost all regions was characterized by the reluctance to invest in new machines. Only in China did order intake increase due to investments by spinning mills in improving their local competitiveness. In addition, some customers held back pending investment decisions and waited for the innovations presented at ITMA in Milan in June 2023. At the same time, demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts declined due to the global market downturn.

On June 30, 2023, the company had a high order backlog of around CHF 1 100 million (June 30, 2022: around CHF 2 100 million). This therefore extends into the year 2024. As in the previous year, cancellations in the reporting period were around 5% of the order backlog, also impacted by the effects of the severe earthquake in Türkiye.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter posted a profit of CHF 25.2 million at the EBIT level, with an EBIT margin of 3.3% (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -10.2 million) and a net profit of CHF 13.3 million (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -25.2 million).

“Next Level” performance program planned
The challenging market situation over the past two years was marked by severe disruptions in the global supply chain in conjunction with rising material, energy, labor, and production costs. The current global demand for textile products remains at a low level. To increase long-term value for customers, employees, and shareholders, Rieter, as technology leader, is planning a performance program called “Next Level”. The goal of the program is to strengthen sales excellence, sharpen customer focus, improve cost efficiency in production and optimize fixed cost structures. The one-time cost of the program is anticipated to be around CHF 45 to 50 million, which will have an impact on the second half of 2023. Most of the program initiatives will be implemented before the end of 2023 with a view to achieving an expected impact from as early as 2024. With these measures Rieter is aiming to reduce operating costs by some CHF 80 million per year.

The program includes provisions for the net reduction of around 300 positions throughout the Group in relation to overhead functions. The possibility of further market- and volume-related adjustments in the order of 400 to 600 positions cannot be excluded. At the end of June 2023, Rieter had a global workforce of 5 555 employees.

Outlook
Given the economic situation and the ongoing cyclical market weakness, Rieter continues to expect below-average demand for new equipment in the coming months. A revival is not expected until the fourth quarter of 2023 at the earliest. Rieter also believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will not recover until later in 2023.

For the full year 2023, Rieter expects an EBIT margin of around 5 to 7% (including positive special effects of less than 2%) and sales at the previous year’s level of around CHF 1.5 billion.