From the Sector

The premiere of the large Premium Group event cosmos in Berlin was with a number of visitors of 70% compared to before Corona a great success. The new combination of B2B and D2C, entertainment and edutainment, fashion and culture provided a lot of exchange, new input, ideas, contacts and 360 degree inspiration.

In focus: content & communication
With the conferences FASHIONTECH, CONSCIOUS CLUB Conference and The Ground Talks, the Premium Group Team put an additional focus on communication and edutainment. Important topics such as diversity, wellbeing, metaverse and sustainability were discussed and relevant lessons learned for the market, brands and consumers.

“Restart was a statement!”
“It's been quite a rodeo ride putting together two B2B trade shows, one D2C festival, three conferences, parties, dinners and receptions for so many different audiences and all while the pandemic continues in full swing – barring the rain and flight chaos. I would have wished that even more visitors would have come, but overall the restart was much better than expected. It was definitely an announcement." Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner Premium Group

New togetherness, new exchange, new ideas
With the premiere of the festival for style & culture, The Ground, young consumers and Berlin communities from GenZ and GenY were part of the Premium Group event cosmos for the first time. Almost 6000 fashion enthusiasts and trade visitors came together at The Ground. Exciting conversations, interactive fire moments and cool shows created a special vibe in and around the Palais am Funkturm. The focus was on young target groups wearing, feeling and thinking. How brands can reach young customers, communicate with them and build trust and much more.

New community through 'Larger than Life Ball'
On Saturday, the day with the most visitors at The Ground, the spectacular ballroom event, the Larger than Life Ball, curated by The House of Gorgeous Gucci in the summer garden of the Palais, caused enthusiasm. Numerous stars and friends of the international LGBTQ+ scene from New York, Rio de Janeiro and Berlin celebrated a colourful open-air party for over 5 hours with cool music and live MC, sensational outfits, plateau heels and wild vogueing and dance competitions on a water catwalk.

Must have PEACE charity initiative
The must-have PEACE merch collection initiated because of the Ukraine war in favour of Be An Angel e.v. was very well received. The sale of limited-edition clothing and accessories from Carry, Closed, Drykorn, Eastpak, Lala Berlin, Lee, Le Specs, MCM, Merz b. Swans and Wranglers as well as generous donations from Boss, among others, brought in a total of almost 15,000 euros. The remaining stocks are promoted and sold via influencer accounts.

January 2023: Happy Birthday, PREMIUM!
The next Premium Group event cosmos will take place from Tuesday, January 17th to Thursday, January 19th, 2023 with a B2B focus again at the Berlin exhibition centre. The focus is on a big anniversary: the PREMIUM will be 20 years old! After the successful kick-off, the CONSCIOUS CLUB Conference will also be further developed for the next round.

The Berlin Fashion Week and Premium Group events will take place at the same time again from 2023.

Facts

• Premium Group event cosmos
• 2 trade shows: PREMIUM and SEEK
• 1 festival: The Ground
• 3 conferences: FASHIONTECH, CONSCIOUS CLUB Conference, The Ground Talks
• More than 800 participating brands
• 45,000 sqm total area
• 50 talks & panels with 85 speakers
• Newcomer brands: 230 at PREMIUM, 134 at SEEK

On July 7, the fashion industry met again at all events of the Premium Group - the two fashion fairs PREMIUM and SEEK, the new GenZ festival The Ground, the conference format FASHIONTECH and the conference newcomers CONSCIOUS CLUB Conference and The Ground Talks - in a common location at Messe Berlin.

From trade visitors to fashion enthusiasts, everyone wanted to see what happens when B2B and D2C come together and when a large as well as inspirational hub is created for topics related to fashion, trends, retail, culture, sexuality, marketing, social media, sustainability, NFTs, metaverse and more. What happens when trade fair stands become experience spaces, brands meet consumers and a stage programme full of edutainment is presented.

On Wednesday, 6 July, Anita Tillmann, Jörg Arntz and the Premium Group Team were welcomed back in by the Senate of the State of Berlin in the presence of Stephan Schwarz, Senator for Economics, Energy and Public Enterprises, in the historic Bärensaal of the Berlin City Hall.

DThe Premium Group events will continue until Saturday evening, 9 July. The entire stage programme will also be streamed live on the Premium Group website

Iluna Group is exhibiting at the upcoming Première Vision, from July 5-7, with the aim of promoting a new fashion that combines aesthetic research and environmental responsibility.
 
The key word of this new collection is “experimentation”: the search for new solutions that can offer consumers style, sustainability and well-being translates into innovative blends, natural dyes and smart prints.

This season, the Iluna team is introducing for the first time GOTS-certified organic cotton inside its gallons and allovers, to add a natural touch to its Green Label line. Among the smart ingredients chosen by Iluna Group are Renycle® and Q-Nova, both GRS-certified pre-consumer recycled polyamide yarns, in addition to premium recycled stretch ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei. The result is a comfortable and ultralight product that remains true to a high value of creativity and responsibility.

In terms of aesthetic innovation, explorations continue with a yarn blend of FSC-certified viscose and polyamide, resulting in striking new Textronic designs. The 3D effect embossed designs create a cloud effect that, combined with Lurex, shows unexpected glows.

Moreover, the continuous path through the new dimension of responsibility continues in several directions: developments in GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns aimed at unprecedented effects in both look, performance and hands; experiments with 16 different natural dyestuffs; and continued investment in technologies that can ensure significant savings in water and energy consumption, including GREENDROP, the new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system.

C.L.A.S.S. will join forces with Milano Unica, 12-14 July, to push the change towards a new generation of fashion through its C.L.A.S.S. SMART SHOP: an online space offering eco-high-tech materials representing a range of categories able to create a new generation of fashion. It is dedicated to students, designers and new generation brands who want to explore and test premium materials mixing style, innovation and responsibility

The C.L.A.S.S. SMART SHOP partners exhibiting at Milano Unica are: ALBINI GROUP, ILUNA GROUP and ZIGNONE.

Premium Group and JOOR have renewed their partnership to power the SS23 PREMIUM and SEEK trade shows through JOOR’s digital platform, underpinning their belief in the power of a hybrid approach to wholesale.

From 7 - 9 July, buyers visiting the shows in Berlin will be able to learn more about and shop from exhibitors in a new hybrid way. Buyers can discover the full PREMIUM and SEEK portfolio of brands both in-person and online 24/7 by visiting JOOR Passport, JOOR's digital trade show destination.

Premium Group unites its various show locations to one cosmos for SS23 at Messe Berlin. The PREMIUM and SEEK shows will be joined by two further components— The Ground is a D2C creative platform for brands and consumers to meet, connect, and collaborate through one-of-a-kind experiences, engaging content, and innovative products, while FASHIONTECH, features masterclasses and panel discussions from the fashion industry’s most brilliant minds. A calendar of content includes deep dives into strong, successful, and sustainable strategies. As part of the content offer, JOOR will facilitate a masterclass on ‘Digital Wholesale’ and a future-looking roundtable discussion with four leading fashion brands on the FASHIONTECH stage.

Throughout the duration of the show, in-person buyers and visitors will have the ability to shop via the Premium Group mobile app. By simply scanning a brand’s corresponding QR code, visitors will link to the brand’s custom profile on JOOR Passport and be able to shop collections directly on the platform. JOOR Passport will also extend the duration of the shows by up to three months, allowing brands to continue wholesale selling digitally outside the window of the physical show.

JOOR and Premium Group’s flexible hybrid format allows visitors and brands a seamless digital and physical introduction to each other and their collections, the opportunity to connect in an efficient, effective, and longer term way, and the convenience to shop the show 24 hours a day from anywhere in the world.

Brands participating include Drykorn, Closed, Bertoni of Denmark, Veja, Ecoalf, Wrangler and Absolut Cashmere.

From 7 - 9 July, the who's who of the fashion industry and the entire fashion ecosystem will finally meet again in person at the events of the Premium Group at Messe Berlin! For business and exchange, for new experiences and impulses, for new brands and above all for one thing: for a new togetherness!

As usual, the trade shows PREMIUM and SEEK as well as the conference format FASHIONTECH are reserved for business professionals - who can find inspiration on site entirely. With the new D2C festival ‘The Ground – Celebration of Style & Culture’, young consumers and fashion enthusiasts from GenZ and GenY as well as the international community living in Berlin are invited to the exhibition grounds for the first time.

More than fashion: 360-degree inspiration at The Ground Festival
At The Ground, industry professionals meet young enthusiasts to inspire each other and discover new worlds. The Ground presents a completely new mix of topics, brands and partners around beauty, music, sport, play, soul and talks. Fashion is the connecting element of The Ground and runs through all areas. Creative and interactive brand presentations meet pre-loved and vintage store pop-ups, inspiring panel talks, sports and mental health workshops and live performances.

In the name of peace and unity: The Ground Festival opened by #FashionUnites Parade
On 7 July, the first The Ground Festival will open with a colourful parade through the capital. Together with the PLATTE.Berlin community, The Ground is organising a parade under the motto #FashionUnites starting at noon from the Victory Column through the west to the festival location of the Berlin exhibition centre. Accompanied by a Berlin DJ, everyone is invited to take part in the parade and can register here and thus also receive free access to The Ground on the first day of the festival.

High-profile charity campaign: The Ground launches 'MUST-HAVE PEACE Merch Collection'
Due to the ongoing war situation in Ukraine, the makers behind The Ground have launched a charity campaign: the MUST-HAVE PEACE Merch Collection. In this exclusive collaboration, players and brands such as Closed, Drykorn, Eastpak, Lala Berlin, Lee and others design one piece of merch each (denim jackets, shirts, shorts, bags) that can be bought during The Ground Festival.

New hub for sustainability: the SEEK Conscious Club
SEEK has always been a magnet for brands and people who have a common vision, tackle things and get them on the road. With the new SEEK Conscious Club, there will be a separate exhibition area focusing on sustainability - more than 80 sustainable brands are joining the club already.

New brand worlds at PREMIUM
This July, PREMIUM will be divided into three sections for the first time: High, Icon and Volume. High is the new home for brands that operate in the market above the premium segment. These include Lala Berlin, Nove, Helene Galwas and Jane Kønig. Icon covers the classic premium segment from Strellson and Seidensticker to Mos Mosh and Denham to Young Poets Society and Fabienne Chapot, and Volume is the new area for commercially successful brands that approach premium from the middle of the market. Here you will find brands like Gerry Weber, Mexx, Pierre Cardin or Miracle of Denim.

The Content Stage program
The stage program will reflect all relevant topics of the fashion ecosystem as part of the new Premium Group cosmos.

• It starts on the first day of the fair, Thursday 7 July, with the popular FASHIONTECH conference.
• On 8 July, the SEEK Conscious Club will host an extensive stage program on the subject of sustainability in all its facets for the first time.
• On Saturday, 9 July, the stage will become the entertainment spotlight for The Ground visitors.

ISKO’s partnership with PAOLO GNUTTI, featuring exclusive creations for the luxury segment, landed at Denim Première Vision in Berlin. Merging sustainable and innovative fashion with new premium aesthetics.

The collection, launched for the first time at Denim Première Vision, embodies ISKO’s most revolutionary technological innovations combined with the long-standing expertise of Paolo Gnutti, who explored aesthetics highly profiled to the unique needs of the luxury segment through 7 main moods:

1. Denim addicted, celebrating total denim looks, offering classic silhouettes mixed up with revised volumes and details;
2. Y2k, bringing back the 2000s typical style featuring exposed skin, low waist pants, micro tops, mini skirts, shrunken garments, butterfly decorations and embellishments;
3. Fanaticism, featuring bright, bold colors, intricate prints and logos combined with details that meet ample volume styles;
4. Bounder glam, all about glammed up leather effects inspired by bikers' unapologetic style and applied to oversize fits, cutouts and lace-ups styles;
5. Moto’roll, where the iconic 60s and 70s biker style is back with a modern twist and a vast range of treatments and fabrics, offering men and women true crowd-pleasers;
6. Gingham mania, an in-depth exploration of the gingham trend which finds expression through various dimensions and techniques that cater to any silhouette;
7. Rugged re-made, which celebrates workwear and historical garments creating a style that combines history with technologies, solutions and treatments to recreate that vintage look dear to the heart of lovers of denim heritage.

• ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei for its responsible RF (Residual Free) line

Innova Fabrics, the Italian manufacturer of knitted fabrics for apparel, underwear and sports, confirms its choice of ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese leader of premium stretch fiber, for its new responsible line RF (Residual Free).

Despite the deep-rooted history of the company's team in the world of textiles, Innova Fabrics is a reality that is not afraid to innovate with a focus on environmental sustainability. As a result of its push for local production and attention to third-party sustainability certifications (including OEKO-TEX Standard 100, one of the world's best-known labels for textiles tested for harmful substances), Innova Fabrics continues its promise of responsibility with an enrichment of its conscious proposals. In the last season, Innova has increased its smart proposition by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the aim of reducing the impact of microplastics residues produced by the fashion industry. This is possible thanks to the combination of two responsible ingredients: SENSIL® Biocare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei.

SENSIL® BioCare is the premium, sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber enriched with a special technology that helps reduce the persistence of textile waste in the ocean and landfills by acting during and after the product's life cycle. Therefore, if the microplastics in SENSIL® BioCare garments are released during washing, they will decompose much faster than conventional Nylon 6.6 fibers, reducing textile waste. ROICA™ V550, part of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, is the premium, sustainable stretch yarn that degrades without releasing harmful substances into the environment, according to the Hohenstein's environmental certification. ROICA™ V550 also carries the Gold Level Material Health certificate from the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute, which evaluated the yarn's impact on human and environmental health. The strong relationship established between Innova Fabrics and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a long-standing one: from the very beginning, the textile company chose ROICA™ as its main reference for premium stretch, using ROICA Colour Perfect™ in most of its articles. Having experienced the innovation of the ROICA™ line dedicated to high-quality color, Innova decided to opt for the ROICA Eco-Smart™ line as part of the extension of its environmentally conscious line.

Thanks to the constant synergy with its premium partner in innovative and responsible stretch, Innova continues its path towards a textile and fashion industry that respects the planet, without forgetting profit. And this is just the beginning. Innova Fabrics pieces containing SENSIL® BioCare and ROICA™ V550

Lenzing – In the first quarter of 2022, the Lenzing Group, like the entire manufacturing industry, was significantly affected by the extreme developments in global energy and commodity markets. A predominantly positive market environment and the strategic focus on specialty fibers such as those of the TENCEL™, LENZING™ ECOVERO™ and VEOCEL™ brands nevertheless ensured a solid revenue and earnings trend, with the effect of higher costs being largely offset.

•    Solid revenue and earnings performance despite extremely tight cost situation
•    Personnel changes on the Managing and Supervisory Boards – Stephan Sielaff appointed as the new CEO
•    Successful production start at world’s largest lyocell plant in Thailand
•    World’s largest pulp mill of its kind successfully started-up in Brazil
•    Premium textile brand TENCEL™ celebrates 30 years of sustainable fiber innovation

The Lenzing Interim Report 01-03/2022 is available on the company website.

Under the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) initiative to enhance transparency and traceability in the garment and footwear industry, Haelixa realizes a pilot project with Costach Cooperative and Peruvian textile company Creditex to give sustainable rural cotton producers in Peru more visibility in the value chain.

In 2019, UNECE and United Nations Centre for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT) have set up an initiative to drive transparency and traceability for sustainable value chains in the garment and footwear industry. The initiative is jointly implemented with the International Trade Centre (ITC) with financial support by the European Union. Haelixa is proud to be part of the group of experts that develops policy recommendations, traceability standards, and conducts projects to set traceability benchmarks. With the support of the +Cotton Project, implemented by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and the Brazilian Cooperation Agency (ABC) a pilot is being realized in this context to mark and trace the finest Pima cotton for Creditex directly at the gin in Piura, Peru. Haelixa’s DNA marker connects the actual lint cotton to the entry on a blockchain system provided by UNECE. The Haelixa technology ensures that the information about the product’s origin and the journey of the product along the value chain is always safely embedded into the product itself. The marked cotton will be used to make exclusive pajamas sets for Cat´s Pajamas. DNA traceability will enable the verification of the premium origin of Peruvian Pima cotton in the final garment produced using sustainable practices by family farmers associated with the Costach cooperative.

Costach is the main cooperative of cotton farmers in Peru. The cooperative consists of 5,200 family farmers in the Piura region, producing mostly extra-long fiber of Pima Cotton. Since 2017, the +Cotton project has been supporting the farmers with training on sustainable practices and has been providing technical assistance for improved markets access.

Creditex is vertically integrated from cotton ginning to fine thread, up to the production of high quality apparel for international premium brands. The company takes social responsibility and environmental stewardship very seriously and therefore makes a strong partner for this project, empowering the cotton family farmers that hold the majority of cotton production in Peru.