From the Sector

Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG will present its systems and solutions for efficient and high-quality textile production and finishing together with Shanghai Kuantex at ITMA Asia (November 19 and 23). The focus will be on the machine manufacturer's new straightening concept, the Orthopac RXVMC.

"In the new straightening concept, special attention was paid to the straightening mechanics and their interaction with the analysis electronics of the probe system," explains Sales Manager Thomas Höpfl. The control concept is also new. A probe group at the leveler infeed detects distortions even before they reach the correction rolls. In this way, the rolls are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimeter. A scanner group at the outfeed also detects possible residual distortion, which is corrected at the second straightening module. This enables an even more precise and faster response when it comes to reacting to rapidly changing distortions. The Orthopac RXVMC therefore shows its full strength when straightening knitwear and fabrics sensitive to distortion.

Also contributing to high-quality textile production and finishing is the Famacont PMC for controlling weft and stitch course density, which will also be on show at ITMA Asia. The Famacont PMC-15 uses a sensor to measure the yarn or stitch density and compares it with the target value stored in the recipe data management system. The detected deviation of the yarn density from the target value is used to fully automatically regulate the leading during the needling process on the stenter frame. Interested parties can have the mode of operation explained to them at the Mahlo booth with the help of a demo tower and their own or provided fabric samples.

Another major topic remains Industry 4.0, because the best measured data is of no use if it cannot be utilized. Mahlo has continuously developed its digital environment mSmart. "Our systems generate data that the customer can use immediately to regulate goods on-line. At the same time, all measured values are backed up in our data management system mLog enhanced and can be retrieved at any time. With this historical data, processes can be optimized and weak points in the process can be minimized," explains Sales Manager Thomas Höpfl.

Responsible innovation plays a leading role at GenovaJeans, the initiative dedicated to new-generation jeans GenovaJeans, the initiative held in Genoa from 5 to 8 October and dedicated to the new generation of jeans, set the premises for the creation of a community dedicated to this iconic, revolutionary and innovative garment.

30 prominent industry leaders, divided into three categories (heritage, new creatives and production chain) created a inspiring experience in historic venues in the heart of the city. Presented in-group exhibitions, they forged a circular journey from the design to the creation of jeans, from the ingredient to the final outfit, and vice versa.

Heritage brands, exploring the history, evolution and best practices of this iconic garment, were hosted inside the Biblioteca Universitaria and included Blue Blanket Division, Blue Of A Kind, Diesel, IMIJT35020 By Canova, Incotex Blue Division, Mud Jeans, Pepe Jeans, Roy Roger's, Stefano Chiassai and Tela Genova.

The new creatives, a new generation of designers who have adopted innovative eco-design strategies to create smart jeans, were present inside Edificio Metelino in the Darsena area and included Andrea Grossi, Gilberto Calzolari, Gimmijeans, Jeanne Friot, Marcello Pipitone with Albiate 1830, Ksenia Schnaider, Patine, Regenesi, The Blue Suit with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and Zerobarracento.

The production chain, composed of companies in the supply and value chain, representing the major stages in the production process, were made up of Albiate 1830 - Albini Group, Cadica, Candiani Denim, Circulose®, Officina39, Pure Denim with Bemberg™ By Asahi Kasei, Soko, Tencel™, Tonello, YKK Italia and were housed inside the Ex Oratorio di San Tommaso.

The responsible innovation, ethics and transparency adopted by each company taking part in the circular journey of GenovaJeans were explained through a QR code powered by C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) that provided information on the garments, their composition, production phases and company values.

Trumpler has teamed up with Archroma to offer a leather production process that can be used to produce high-performance leather in a more eco-friendly and cost-efficient way.

The new process DyTan®combines offers an alternative to existing metal-free and chrome-tanned leather. It enables the reliable production of leather with great shavability, color depth and migration and abrasion resistance. Free from metal salts and reactive aldehydes, DyTan® is suitable for a wide range of leather applications, from garment and footwear to automotive and furniture upholstery, for today’s eco-conscious leather producers and consumers.

At the core of the DyTan® process is Archroma’s patented AVICUERO® System, which is based on novel molecules that enable more sustainable leather tanning and dyeing, developed by Archroma in cooperation with leather technology consultant Dr Leather. It enables collagen fibers in the leather to be covalently cross-linked through a simplified process at low temperatures. As a result, the system shows strong potential to save energy and water, while also reducing process time and CO₂ emissions by up to 23%.*

The DyTan® process combines the AVICUERO® System with Trumpler’s bio-based fatliquors and retanning agents based on functional biopolymers produced from hydrolyzed shavings – resource-saving technology that Trumpler has been refining for 15 years.

As a global partner of Archroma, the Trumpler Group is responsible for the distribution of the AVICUERO® System worldwide. Delivering technical support and first-class customer care, Trumpler will help leather manufacturers and brands to implement sustainable tanning and draw on its comprehensive product portfolio and process knowledge of tanning, retanning and fatliquoring processes.
 

* Estimations carried out with the Archroma ONE WAY Impact Calculator show energy savings of up to 25% and reduced process time leading to a reduction in CO₂ emissions of up to 23%, compared to traditional chrome tanning. They also show significant water savings compared to other metal-free tanning systems¹. With the ONE WAY Impact Calculator, customers will be offered personalized calculations for their specific processes.

¹ Trials made at Trumpler GmbH application lab.

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) will be exhibiting at the MEDICA medical technology trade fair in Düsseldorf from November 13 to 16, 2023. At the joint stand of Baden-Württemberg International, a new development will be shown, that can reduce infections during operations.

These nosocomial infections occur when surgical wounds are contaminated by microbes. They can lead to serious complications. The task of the contract development was to create a porous ring tube that reduces the risk of contamination during operations. Germ-free air is introduced into the operating field via the so-called airflow ring, thereby shielding pathogenic germs.

The tube is knitted from polyester and folded. This pleating ensures that the circular shape remains stable, but the tube is still flexible. The outside of the tube is coated so that the air is directed into the inner area of the airflow ring. The ring is attached to the skin with a biocompatible adhesive so that it fits tightly on curved areas of the body such as the face or around joints. The position of the ring can be easily changed.

The functionality of the airflow ring was successfully demonstrated in tests with nebulized colony-forming bacteria.

The tests showed that the ring also withstands significantly worse conditions than in an operating theater, e.g. in doctors' surgeries and in situations with lower hygiene standards.

• Lenzing and Södra – a long-standing partnership for systemic change
• International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) honored the two companies in the "International Cooperation" category
• EU co-funded recycling project for textiles on an industrial scale

The Lenzing Group, the world’s leading supplier of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, and the Swedish pulp producer Södra have received the ITMF Award 2023 in the category “International Cooperation” for their joint achievements in textile recycling and circular economy. The award was presented at the ITMF Annual Conference in Keqiao, China, on November 06, 2023.

The ITMF Award 2023 is given by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) to recognize outstanding achievements and merits in the textile sector in two categories: ”Sustainability & Innovation“ and ”International Cooperation“. Since 2021, the two pioneers have been joining forces in textile recycling, making a decisive contribution to promoting the circular economy in the fashion industry. As part of the cooperation, the companies intend to share their knowledge with each other and jointly develop processes to enable the wider use of cellulose-based used textiles on a commercial scale.

The OnceMore® pulp from Södra, which was jointly developed further by Södra and Lenzing, is subsequently used, among other things, as a raw material for the production of Lenzing fibers with REFIBRA™ technology. The OnceMore® process makes it possible to process and recycle a blend of cotton and polyester.

ITMF paid particular tribute to the joint LIFE TREATS project (Textile Recycling in Europe AT Scale)¹,which was supported by an EU grant of EUR 10m under the LIFE 2022² program and aims to build a large-scale plant at Södra's Mörrum site in Sweden.

For more information on the ITMF Awards 2023, visit the ITMF website.

¹ Project 101113614 — LIFE22-ENV-SE-TREATS
² https://cinea.ec.europa.eu/programmes/life_en

Heberlein, founded in 1835, successfully completed the sale of its business on 31^st of October 2023. The new joint ownership comprises the company’s management, alongside industry expert Daniel Lippuner
and the Renaissance investment foundation. From November 1, 2023, the company will operate under the name "Heberlein Technology AG".

The owners are committed to investing in the long-term success of a business that already combines traditional values with innovative power. The brand is known for its high level of expertise, as well as its tailor-made solutions for the textile business. As the world's leading supplier of jets for synthetic yarns, Heberlein develops, produces, and distributes key components for the man-made fibre industry. Around 80 employees and an efficient infrastructure in Wattwil, Switzerland, ensure that international customers can continue to rely on quality and reliability.

The Renaissance investment foundation was established by pension funds, for pension funds, and has been investing in unlisted Swiss SMEs for over 20 years.

Under the new ownership, the Heberlein business will continue unchanged at the current location in Wattwil with the current management and all current employees. The board of directors and management of Heberlein AG welcome this solution and are convinced that the existence of the company and its traditions will now be secured in the long term and that it will continue to develop successfully – positive news also for the business location of Toggenburg and the canton of St. Gallen.

Martin Zuercher, CEO of Heberlein, says of the transaction: "With this sale, we are opening a new, positive chapter in the company's long history. With the Renaissance investment foundation, we found an owner who is focused on long-term success. Together with the energetic management team, I look forward to continuing to make a significant contribution to Heberlein's success in the future."

• Revenues: 358.3 million euros (-7%)
• EBITDA before non-recurring items: 59.2 million euros (-17%)
• Net income: 24.9 million euros (-30%)
• Free cash flow before non-recurring items: 32.1 million euros
• 2023 outlook: revised revenues – confirmation of EBITDA before non-recurring items

Lectra’s Board of Directors, chaired by Daniel Harari, reviewed the consolidated financial statements for the third quarter and first nine months of 2023, which have not been reviewed by the Statutory Auditors.

Currency changes between 2022 and 2023 mechanically decreased revenues and EBITDA before non-recurring items by 6.4 million euros (-5%) and 2.8 million euros (-10%) respectively in Q3, and by 7.3 million euros (-2%) and 3.0 million euros (-5%) respectively in the first nine months of the year, at actual exchange rates compared to like-for-like figures.

Business Trends and Outlook
In its 2022 Financial Report, published February 8, 2023, Lectra presented its new roadmap for 2023-2025. The Group also specified that 2023 remained unpredictable given the degraded macroeconomic and geopolitical environment, which resulted in many uncertainties that could continue to weigh on its customers’ investment decisions.

At the beginning of the year, the Group set itself objectives of achieving, in 2023, revenues in the range of 522 to 576 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 90 to 113 million euros. It subsequently reported on April 27 that it then anticipated revenues in the range of 485 to 525 million euros and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 78 to 95 million euros.

In what continues to be a highly degraded environment in macroeconomic and geopolitical terms, orders and revenues from new systems in Q3 were lower than anticipated by the Group. Recurring revenues, on the other hand, which should account for over 65% of total revenues in 2023, continued to grow in Q3, and provide good visibility. In addition, the initial measures to reduce overhead costs have begun to bear fruit.

In light of these factors, full-year revenues are now anticipated in the range of 474 to 481 million euros, thus slightly lower than anticipated on April 27, and EBITDA before non-recurring items in the range of 78 to 82 million euros, in the lower part of the range indicated on April 27. These scenarios are based on September 30 exchange rates for Q4, including $1.06 to the euro.

Because the Group's customers operate in a highly competitive environment that demands they continue to improve performance, their investments will pick up as soon as the macroeconomic situation improves. Lectra's roadmap for 2023-2025, which was launched on January 1, 2023, will enable the Group to take full advantage of the upturn and accelerate its growth.

Source Home & Gift continues to go from strength to strength with over 430 exhibitors expected to be at its third edition from 4th – 7th February 2024 at NEC Birmingham.

Uniting global manufacturers and artisan makers who all pride themselves on responsible manufacturing and sustainable production, with key retailers, brands, and contractors, Source Home & Gift increases in size by 25% with producers from UK, China, India, Philippines, Nepal and many more showcasing their wares. Debuting at the show will be pavilions from Senegal and Ghana.

All exhibitors are required to have had a recent audit from Sedex or a recognisable audit institution giving buyers the confidence that they will meet suppliers that have responsible business practices. The show features eight sectors including Homewares, Toys, Packaging, Stationery & Greetings, Gifts, Furniture, Textiles, and Technology & Services.

Source Home & Gift includes a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals.

The last show in September was attended by leading retailers and brands including Sainsburys, Dunelm, Haskins Garden Centre, Blue Diamond, Funky Pigeon, M&M, Matalan, Disney, Morrisons, M&S, Next, Costcutter, AIS, Alzheimers Society, Amazon, B&Q, and Card Factory.

• Revenue of EUR 1.87 bn and EBITDA of EUR 219.1 mn in the first three quarters of 2023
• Positive free cash flow of EUR 27.3 mn in the third quarter
• Implementation of performance program focusing on positive free cash flow, strengthened sales and margin growth and sustainable cost excellence
• Modernization and conversion of Indonesian site successfully completed – EU Ecolabel received

The anticipated recovery in markets relevant for the Lenzing Group has to date failed to materialize. The continued sharp increase in raw material and energy costs on the one hand and very subdued demand on the other had a negative impact on Lenzing’s business trends as well as on industry as a whole during the reporting period.

Revenue in the first three quarters of 2023 decreased by 5.3 percent year-on-year to EUR 1.87 bn. This reduction was primarily due to lower fiber revenues, while pulp revenues were up. The earnings trend was mainly influenced by the market environment. As a consequence, earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) in the reporting period decreased by 16.7 percent year-on-year to EUR 219.1 mn. The net result after tax amounted to minus EUR 96.7 mn (compared with EUR 74.9 mn in the first three quarters of 2022), while earnings per share amounted to minus EUR 4.90 (compared with EUR 2.16 in the first three quarters of 2022).

Outlook
According to the IMF, a full return of the global economy to pre-pandemic growth rates appears increasingly out of reach in the coming quarters. In addition to the consequences of the pandemic and the ongoing war in Ukraine, growth is also being influenced by restrictive monetary policy and extreme weather events. The consequences of the renewed military confrontation in the Middle East are not yet foreseeable. Overall, the IMF warns of greater risks to global financial stability, and expects the growth rate to decrease to 3 percent this year and to 2.9 percent next year.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in the regions of relevance to Lenzing.

The general market environment is continuing to weigh on the consumer climate and on sentiment in the industries relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, the current 2023/24 crop season is emerging as a further 1.7 mn tonnes of inventory build-up, following 1.8 mn tonnes of inventory build-up in the previous season.

Earnings visibility remains severely limited overall.

Lenzing is fully on track with the implementation of the reorganization and cost reduction program and on this basis is implementing a comprehensive performance program focused on positive free cash flow, strengthened sales and margin growth as well as sustainable cost excellence. The overarching goal is to position Lenzing even more strongly and to further increase its crisis resilience.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to anticipate growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and clothing industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is very well positioned with its “Better Growth” strategy and plans to continue driving growth with specialty fibers as well as its sustainability goals, including the trans-formation from a linear to a circular economy model.

The successful implementation of the key projects in Thailand and Brazil as well as the investment projects in China and Indonesia will further strengthen Lenzing’s positioning in this respect.

Taking the aforementioned factors into consideration, the Lenzing Group continues to expect that EBITDA for the 2023 financial year will lie in a range between EUR 270 mn and EUR 330 mn.

The Fashion for Good Museum has opened its doors for the new pop-up exhibition News From The Future. As part of a new Educational Programme and Toolkit - developed by the Fashion for Good Museum team - a selection of up-and-coming talents composed of Dutch fashion students and emerging designers have been asked to respond to the question: “what could the future of fashion look like?” Their answers are revealed in the exhibition in the form of garments, videos, installations and more. This is a future-forward exhibition where you can explore different fashion perspectives beyond the climate crisis, giving hope and, perhaps, a reality check.

Post-consumer waste, overconsumption and the pollution of our waterways are just some of the industry issues we are currently facing. Mirrored against rising temperatures and increasingly unstable weather conditions, the global shift as a result of climate change is inevitable. What does this mean for our future generations? How do we move forward from here? This raises one central question: What does the future of fashion look like?

News From The Future, the new exhibition at the Fashion for Good Museum, invited Dutch students and new creative voices to reflect on these questions. The emphasis on emerging talent is a common thread throughout the exhibition’s and the look and feel is designed by upcoming graphic designer Sara Biatchinyi.

Participating artists and designers include students from art and fashion schools across the Netherlands from the University of the Arts Utrecht, Zadkine MBO, MBO Rijnland and Saxion College. The students’ work was chosen after they participated in the educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton”. This programme was developed by the Fashion for Good Museum’s Curator and Education Coordinator Alyxandra Westwood and Education and Fashion consultant in sustainability Yophi Ignacia founder of The Future Mode, in collaboration with the aforementioned schools.

To further enhance these narratives, and to facilitate and promote a space for connection between emerging talent, the Museum invited Current Obsession Magazine - an interdisciplinary jewellery platform and magazine - to co-curate an installation and reflect on the future of jewellery. Over the course of the exhibition the Fashion for Good Museum will come to life hosting an art auction, panel discussion and a weekly updated installation, showcasing emerging talent. All of these elements together will collectively address the sustainable and regenerative design practices in both the Fashion and Jewellery industries.

Designer Kevin Paraiso (Paris/Benin) showcases a creative workshop in the museum, featuring looks from his Cosmic Summer .Dolkrey collection, which was presented during Spring/Summer ‘23 of Paris Fashion Week. “Cosmic Summer reflects on our desire to bring vibrant colours and a sense of uplift to the fashion of today and tomorrow. A cosmic news from the future.” A hopeful collection, with future-forward elements seamlessly integrated from the use of deadstock, circular materials and an on-demand tailoring business model with inhouse printing - presents a positive outlook.

Launching “Classroom of the Future: The Stories Behind Cotton”
The educational programme “Classroom of the Future: the Stories Behind Cotton'' has been developed into an open source toolkit for MBO and HBO education. The toolkit is live and available to download from the Fashion for Good Museum website as of the 30th of November 2023.

It consists of a set of six lessons all exploring the various aspects of cotton with specific emphasis on people and planet. The toolkit brings together different forms of interactive tools for the classroom: videos, podcasts,  lesson plans and workshops. The content shows the perspective of local and international makers and innovators working to create a better and fairer fashion system.
The programme was part of and based on the previous museum exhibition Knowing Cotton Otherwise (2022-’23) and invited students to reflect on the  exhibition themes - water, transparency, agriculture, climate, processing, origin, labour/forced labour and end-of-use - through their own perspective. The educational methodology and goals within the programme were developed to level the field between MBO and HBO students, reflecting a more realistic image of what it's like working in the professional field. During the programme students worked together equally, challenging the segregated Dutch education system and aiming for new results.

News From The Future is open to the public at the Fashion for Good Museum at Rokin 102 in Amsterdam.