From the Sector

Labels and small accessories stand together for the company’s great passion for leather, featuring a mix of eclectic inspirations, complemented by a variety of solutions and with a new exclusive Green Book, with a very sustainable approach.

A creative selection of proposals enriched with a new line of completely green products defines the SS2021 collection by Vivolo. Sustainability is the running theme, thanks to the development of concepts that focus on the combination of zero-impact processing techniques and state-of-the-art materials, bringing to life RE Vivolo.
This special Green Book gathers a selection of products that provide a sustainable interpretation of the beauty of Vivolos work. The selection of specific raw materials defines five micro-areas in terms of options: leather (recycled, solvent-free and vegetable-tanned), eco-leather (solventfree and jacron), technical solutions (silicon and recycled post-industrial polyurethane), fabrics (organic cotton, recycled cotton, felt obtained from the recycling of post-consumer plastic materials) and the brand new plant-based options (Apple Skin, Piñatex® and Bananatex®). In parallel with this eco-line, the collection presents the evolution of more classical option.
The heritage style results in the selection of new designs, made thanks to an combination heat embossing and hand painting enhancing the quality of leather through the creation of miniature works of art. An additional highlight is the embroidery section.
Technical inspirations remain the most direct expression of the research by the inhouse R&D team. From the use of high-performance materials to the implementation of ideal processing techniques, the mood emphasizes the high-tech character of these options, through mirrored, reflective and  iridescent finishings along with a fluorescent color palette. Silicon and polyurethane make again in this season their appearance.

The collection comes to a close with the accessories – patches as well as  drawstrings, puller, buttons and cord stoppers, along with many others – conceived to become the added detail to embellish and enhance outerwear and knitwear. Once again, Vivolo proves its ability in  interpreting a style that transcends time, representative of the Made in Italy tradition along with an unparalleled approach to production.

Major technological changes to Oerlikon Neumag’s RoTac³ tangling unit produce even more efficient BCF yarn tangling. On the one hand, the tangling nozzle has been flow - optimized, allowing the air pressure to be lowered by approximately 10 percent compared to its predecessor while maintaining the same knot strength. Furthermore, the nozzle bearing arrangements have been improved. Consequently, either higher speeds or nozzle rings with greater numbers of holes can be used, generating more knots in the yarn.

Even at high production speeds, tangling knots can be set considerably more evenly with the RoTac³ than in the case of other conventional tangling units. Frequent tangling dropouts are now a thing of the past. This ensures better yarn quality and has a positive impact on further processing. The result: the carpet has a visibly more even appearance.

Stable and efficient yarn production is hugely important to yarn manufacturers. Not only does the evenness of the tangling knots make the investment interesting, so too does the energy efficiency of the RoTac³. The tangling unit requires up to 50 percent less energy for generating compressed air. Against the background of rising energy prices, this represents an excellent prerequisite for optimizing production costs.

Oerlikon Neumag has been able to secure various retrofit contracts since the launch of the RoTac³ in 2015. And new systems are predominantly equipped with RoTac³. The RoTac³ is included in the standard scope of delivery for the newer BCF S8 system. The tangling unit is available as an option both for the single-end Sytec One system and the three - end S+ and it can also be retrofitted on request.

Anglo Recycling Technology is on course to deliver no less than a million of its special nonwoven mats for hydroponically growing herbs to a major customer in the Middle East this year. The Growfelt-branded products arose from the discovery back in the late 1990s by Anglo Recycling’s owner Simon Macaulay, that the Sussex-based retail supplier of salads, Van Heineken Brothers (now Vitacress), used nonwoven felts on which to grow its cress.

“I drove down to see the company’s production manager, Chris Moncrieff and discovered they were indeed growing cress on felts, but they were made from virgin materials and he liked the idea of maybe using a blend of virgin fiber offcuts of cotton, wool, and polypropylene,” he explains. “That’s how Growfelt was born. For the first six years, we supplied exclusively to Vitacress and in return, they helped us to bring our factory up to food-grade standard and to set in place a testing regime for Salmonella E-Coli coliforms and listeria.”

In recent years, however, Anglo Recycling, which is based in Whitworth, near Rochdale in the UK, has significantly broadened its customer base. It now offers a core of three growing media products to meet the differing needs of customers across Europe, the Middle East, and the Far East, whether for retail presentation and appearance or for water holding.

•  Historically difficult market environment – trade tensions put textile value chain under pressure in 2019
•  Prices for standard viscose at a historic low
•  Positive development of the specialty fiber business with a revenue share of already 51 . 6 percent
•  Strategic investment projects are progressing according to plan
•  sCore TEN targets for 2024 defined – EBITDA of EUR 800 mn

Lenzing – Despite a generally difficult demand environment for textile fibers and a drastic drop in prices for standard viscose, the Lenzing Group recorded a solid business development in 2019. The disciplined implementation of the sCore TEN corporate strategy and the accompanying focus on specialty fibers once again helped to mitigate the effect of unprecedentedly low standard viscose prices.

As a result, revenue dropped by 3.3 percent from EUR 2.18 bn to EUR 2.11 bn in 2019, driven by lower selling prices as well as standard fiber volumes. Due to positive mix effects and more resilient specialty fiber prices, the share of specialty fibers increased from 45.5 percent to 51.6 percent of revenue. The earnings development was largely influenced by the decline in revenue, but also by negative currency effects on material and personnel costs. EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) fell by 14.4 percent from EUR 382 mn to EUR 326.9 mn. The EBITDA margin declined from 17.6 percent to 15.5 percent. Net profit, at EUR 114.9 mn, was 22.4 percent lower than in the previous year at EUR 148.2 mn. Earnings per share amounted to EUR 4. 63 ( 2018: EUR 5 . 61 ).

• Historically difficult market environment – trade tensions put textile value chain under pressure in 2019
• Prices for standard viscose at a historic low
• Positive development of the specialty fiber business with a revenue share of already 51.6 percent
• Strategic investment projects are progressing according to plan
• sCore TEN targets for 2024 defined – EBITDA of EUR 800 mn

Despite a generally difficult demand environment for textile fibers and a drastic drop in prices for standard viscose, the Lenzing Group recorded a solid business development in 2019. The disciplined implementation of the sCore TEN corporate strategy and the accompanying focus on specialty fibers once again helped to mitigate the effect of unprecedentedly low standard viscose prices.
As a result, revenue dropped by 3.3 percent from EUR 2.18 bn to EUR 2.11 bn in 2019, driven by lower selling prices as well as standard fiber volumes. Due to positive mix effects and more resilient specialty fiber prices, the share of specialty fibers increased from 45.5 percent to 51.6 percent of revenue.
The earnings development was largely influenced by the decline in revenue, but also by negative currency effects on material and personnel costs. EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) fell by 14.4 percent from EUR 382 mn to EUR 326.9 mn. The EBITDA margin declined from 17.6 percent to 15.5 percent. Net profit, at EUR 114.9 mn, was 22.4 percent lower than in the previous year at EUR 148.2 mn. Earnings per share amounted to EUR 4.63 (2018: EUR 5.61).

Featuring the innovative ISKO’s R-TWO™ program, the collection has a new take on sustainability: it relies on fabrics made of reused and recycled materials as well as an advanced design research for the development of a new, conscious style.

Sustainability through the use of highly responsible materials and the experimentation of fits: this is Reloved, the new collection developed by haikure in partnership with leading denim ingredient brand ISKO. Presented with an exclusive preview during Milan Fashion Week, it is an act of love for the planet, the environment and the people.

The project perfectly embodies all the values that made the longstanding partnership between the two brands possible – a responsible approach to innovation and the development of cutting-edge concepts.

Taking into account both materials and design, Reloved features the pioneering ISKO’s R-TWO™ program, which relies on a blend of reused cotton and recycled polyester.

During the processing of raw cotton into yarn, for every 100 kilos of cotton approximately 10% is lost. ISKO collects it and prevents it from becoming waste, adding it back into the spinning process obtaining cotton that is fully traced, documented and audited. This verification process has been invented by ISKO in partnership with its yarn supplier Sanko, offering full clarity into the traceability of reused cotton from field to fabric. It is also certified with the Content Claim Standard – or CCS – of the Textile Exchange.

Recycled polyester comes from clear plastic bottles or, alternatively, it can come from other certified waste: in either case the source material is collected, sorted, stripped of labels and caps, and cleaned to be ground into plastic pellets. These can then be re-spun into new fiber filaments.

Depending on the content percentages, for the recycled polyester ISKO can provide either the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certifications, both of which track the recycled raw material through the supply chain from input to final product to verify its integrity.

Designed to tackle over-sourcing, the platform improves the environmental performance impact of yarn-to-fabric production. As ISKO’s latest responsible evolution, ISKO’s latest responsible evolution has resulted also in the perfect solution to enhance the responsible character of the Reloved collection.

The collection’s fresh and innovative take on style combines unisex concepts and oversized fits, is available in one shade of color featuring a variety of prints and is crafted with the planet and its inhabitants in mind. To provide full clarity and traceability from field to shelf, materials and processes are kept under the control of Made By, an independent agency that controls the social and environmental conditions of all elements of the production process.

“haikure and ISKO have always shared the same values and approach to innovation,” explained Elena Faleschini, ISKO Global Field Marketing Manager. “When we have the opportunity to work together, we know that the result is going to be astounding. Reloved is a testament to how fashion can be both innovative and responsible, without compromising on style.” A preview of Reloved was presented on Febuary 22nd, during a special happening that took place at Clan Upstairs (Vicolo Fiori 2, Milan), gathering friends, partners and denim lovers.

Retailers invest in emotionalisation and digitalisation +++ Top theme: linking online with offline shopping +++ Focus on sustainability +++ Accompanying Stages and Specials received very well

The World’s No.1 Retail Trade Fair, EuroShop 2020, drew to a close on Thursday (20 February 2020) after five successful days in Düsseldorf: 2,300 exhibitors from 57 nations reported of very good leads and concluded business deals. Furthermore, lively follow-up business is expected. 94,000 visitors travelled to the Rhine to gather information on the line-up of products, trends and concepts for retailers and their partners featured in 16 exhibition halls.  

“We are delighted that EuroShop once again successfully proved to be the most relevant platform for the global retail community when it comes to trends, inspirations and networking. Our exhibitors deserve the highest praise for their loyalty. With their innovative power they again proved the major attraction for an entire industry,” said Erhard Wienkamp, Managing Director at Messe Düsseldorf, voicing his great satisfaction with EuroShop 2020 results.

Exhibitors especially applauded the high international attendance at EuroShop. 70% of the EuroShop audience travelled to Düsseldorf from abroad. Large delegations came for example from Brazil, Australia and New Zealand. Trade visitors from a total of 142 countries attended EuroShop 2020.

“This high level of international interest clearly documents the dynamism of the global retail world and the exceptional position EuroShop enjoys as its economic engine,” said Michael Gerling, Chairman of the EuroShop Advisory Board and CEO of the EHI Retail Institute Cologne.

“The success of eCommerce is a real encouragement for retailers: they have understood they have to give their shoppers good reasons beyond the ranges to enter their stores. This competition has taken retail as a whole to the next quality level. Investment is being made in shop fitting so as to create customer journeys,” explains Gerling who adds: “Beyond this, retail digitalisation is booming. It enables retailers to offer their shoppers even more services and link online and offline channels, on the one hand, while simplifying process flows, logistics and lots more, on the other.” At EuroShop 2020 digital transformation was therefore a key focus, also in terms of achieving the highest energy efficiency and sustainability possible.

Exhibitors underlined the high level of expertise among visitors at the event, especially their pronounced decision-making powers, because 70% of the trade fair guests were in international top management. Many of them also used their visit to EuroShop to learn about best practice cases and forward-looking trends in retail at the in total eight Stages. The varied programme of lectures held on the individual Stages on such topics as Retail Technology, Architecture and Store Design or Expo & Event was well attended across the board. Meeting with the same high level of approval were the numerous Specials at EuroShop, including the Start-up Hub, the Designer Village and Premium City.

Numbers speak for themselves here: 96% of trade fair visitors were satisfied with their visit to the trade fair. Just as many confirmed the outstanding position of EuroShop as a trend barometer, networking platform and largest event for the retail sectors.

Due to the current situation associated with the Coronavirus 19.000 visitors less attended this time than at the record event 2017.

The next EuroShop will be held in Düsseldorf from 26 February to 2 March 2023.  

Riri and Coeurdor announce that they are creating the largest metal accessories group dedicated to the high-end luxury brands. The combination of the two companies will result in a unique value proposition, offering the full range of metal trims. This will allow luxury brands to simplify their supply-chain and benefit from unique innovation capabilities, including new technology like 3D printing and stainless steel. They will also rely on a production network that spans from France, Italy, Switzerland to Portugal, offering maximum flexibility and security of supply adapted to the fashion market requirements.

Founded in 1951 and headquartered in Maîche (France), Coeurdor is a manufacturer of metal accessories for the luxury industry. The company is specialized in surface finishings and manufacture of metal products for Luxury leather goods, with production facilities in France and Portugal. The company is well-known for the quality of its products, its innovation capabilities and strong customer relationships.

Founded in 1936 and headquartered in Mendrisio (Switzerland), Riri is a well-known brand, producing zippers and buttons, through Riri and Cobrax brands, mostly for the high-end luxury market. Riri is the privileged choice of many brands in light of high quality of the creations released season after season, ever-ending effort in terms of innovation, personalization of details and high service levels. The company has a world commercial presence, with commercial offices in Paris, New York City, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Shanghai and four manufacturing sites across Switzerland and Italy.

Robert Jeambrun, Chairman of Coeurdor said: “We are very excited to open this new chapter of our history together with Riri. We believe the two organizations share the same values, including a focus on innovation and dedication to high service levels for our customers. Crossing our path with Riri will enable us to continue our growth story and increase our financial means, becoming the supplier of choice of high-end luxury brands.”

Renato Usoni, CEO of Riri Group said: “We are welcoming the Coeurdor family. The alliance of the two groups will create a new leader in the market with a unique business model and industrial means capable of supplying all metal pieces needed by our clients, from zippers to buttons and metal trims, all at once. The combined offering will be highly synergetic and will allow our clients to better industrialize their supply chains and benefit from unique innovation capabilities.”

Ascend Performance Materials, the largest fully integrated producer of polyamide 66 resin, announced today it signed an agreement to purchase Poliblend and Esseti Plast GD from D’Ottavio Group. The acquisition includes a manufacturing facility in Mozzate, Italy, the masterbatch portfolio of Esseti Plast GD and the engineering plastics portfolio of Poliblend, which consists of virgin and recycled grades of PA66, PA6, PBT and POM.

Poliblend offers compounding and masterbatch services, including color and additive concentrates that enhance the appeal and end-use performance of plastics products, packaging and fibers. Its certifications include ISO 9001, ISO 14001 and ISO TS 16949.

Giancarlo D’Ottavio, Poliblend’s president, will continue to run Poliblend’s operations and join Ascend’s European management team. Terms of the transaction were not disclosed. The acquisition is expected to close in the second quarter.

Sicomin has partnered with GREENBOATS® on the supply of GreenPoxy® bio-based resins for the FLAX 27 - the most complete natural fibre composite project realised by GREENBOATS® to date. Sicomin’s hand lamination and infusion production processes have been optimized for natural fibre composites, providing an uncompromising performance.

GREENBOATS® has been producing innovative natural fibre composites at their Bremen facility for more than a decade, expertly crafting a range of marine and industrial products with a mission to use 100% renewable and sustainable raw materials in sandwich composite structures.  

The FLAX 27 is an 8.2m classically styled daysailer designed by renowned naval architects Judel/Vrolijk & Co. The hull, deck and internal structure of the vessel were infused with Sicomin’s very low viscosity GreenPoxy® InfuGreen 810 resin and flax fibre reinforcement fabrics.  

Vacuum infusion with Sicomin’s InfuGreen 810, produced crystal-clear natural fibre laminates with outstanding mechanical properties, whilst the closed mould process also improved working conditions in the factory. Available with a choice of hardeners to adjust the curing time as required, InfuGreen 810 also carries DNV-GL approval, providing a reassuring 3rd party confirmation of the product’s exceptional quality, performance and consistency.
GREENBOATS® typically apply a bespoke lifecycle assessment tool to optimize their projects for performance as well as sustainability. This detailed view of a project’s environmental impact and GREENBOATS® expertise in product development has now created a number of larger scale composite applications for bio-based resins.

Sicomin are looking forward to continuing to work alongside GREENBOATS® in 2020, with industrial production capacity for their market leading range of GreenPoxy® bio-based epoxies positioning the company to support the forecasted large scale growth in the natural fibre composite market.

“Our goal is to really get people excited about Natural Fibre Composites. Sicomin’s GreenPoxy® products help us create sustainable composites with no compromise in performance or appearance.” commented GREENBOATS® founder Friedrich Johann Deimann.

The GREENBOATS® FLAX 27 will be on display on the JEC planets at JEC World 2020 Paris from 3 to 5 March 2020.