From the Sector

Haelixa, a provider of physical traceability solutions, announceed the appointment of a new CEO, Patrick Strumpf, and the addition of Stefan Karlen to the Board of Directors. These positions shall mark a significant step in Haelixa’s mission to advance the growth of supply chain transparency solutions and drive positive change in the industry.

Patrick Strumpf joins Haelixa as its new CEO; he has over 20 years of experience building and scaling up businesses. Thanks to his strong entrepreneurial background, he has excelled in various manufacturing, distribution, and retail roles. Strumpf’s proven leadership, commercial acumen and strong customer focus will ensure the company keeps pushing its boundaries and attains even greater heights of success. “I am excited about the Haelixa traceability solution. It sets the highest standards and delivers outstanding advantages to brands and manufacturers who position themselves as innovation leaders, especially regarding compliance and credibility issues.”

Stefan Karlen joins Haelixa’s Board of Directors; he brings over 30 years of experience in the supply chain industry, having served as the Group CEO of Panalpina, one of the world’s leading freight forwarding and logistics companies. With his deep understanding of global supply chains and expertise in building solid teams, Karlen will provide valuable insights to Haelixa’s Board of Directors. His track record of driving innovation is instrumental in shaping the company’s strategic direction. “I am passionate about environmental responsibility and bringing positive change”, said Karlen. He added, “I identify with Haelixa’s values and am excited to leverage my skills to a company that prioritises sustainability and integrity.”

In cooperation with testing provider Hohenstein, Under Armour is launching a new fiber-shed test kit. It will help textile companies along the supply chain to develop lower shed materials during product development. The companies carry out the test themselves in-house using the test kit or can commission Hohenstein as a testing service provider.

The kit is a one-off purchase, after which users can buy additional materials from project partner James Heal. By using the new kit, Under Armour can reliably assess the quality and shed rate of the materials from suppliers.

For Hohenstein customers, the test kit is a useful addition to their microplastics tests. It is a quick and relatively inexpensive preliminary test that ensures better early-stage results for the end product.

During the production, wear and laundering of synthetic and natural fabrics, fibre shedding occurs in varying degrees. Hohenstein and Under Armour expect that their test method will help the industry better understand and reduce its contribution to the microfibre problem.

“Until now, integrating fiber-shed testing into industry research and development activities has required a significant time and cost investment,” said Kyle Blakely, Senior Vice President of Innovation for Under Armour. “At Under Armour, we believe intervening early to mitigate shedding is critical, which is why our test method is designed to specifically address these time and cost barriers.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), spanning the entire spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, commended Congress for passing the Fiscal Year 2024 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA), legislation that will help preserve the Berry Amendment supply chain and direct the Department of Defense to expand its procurement of domestically-made textile goods for military use.

“We applaud the House and Senate for getting NDAA across the finish line and are pleased the legislation will now go to President Biden for his signature,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas. “NCTO sincerely thanks Rep. Don Davis (D-NC) for sponsoring language expressing concern about offshoring textile manufacturing and highlighting the need for the DOD and Defense Logistics Agency (DLA) to procure more domestically-produced textile goods for military use. The language also requires the DOD to report on the feasibility of requiring American-made home textile goods to be used on military installations.”

“We also want to thank Rep. Joe Courtney (D-CT) who sponsored language expressing concern about economic factors impacting the capacity of the U.S. textile industry to meet DOD requirements and calling on the agency to assess labor shortages, contract forecasting and lack of investment in manufacturing capabilities and report back to Congress.”

Finally, this NDAA report language calls for DOD to report to Congress its assessment of the textile industry as it relates to labor shortages, contract forecasting and lack of investment in manufacturing capabilities.

“The domestic textile industry and supply chain are vital to the warm industrial base for the production of critical items that contribute to our nation’s health and safety. It is imperative that Congress and the administration continue to support this industry—a key contributor to our national defense that supplies over 8,000 products a year to our men and women in uniform—through expanded government procurement of American-made items. The NDAA is critical to supporting this manufacturing base,” Glas said.

In an initiative aimed at enhancing accessibility to certification for small operator groups within the organic textile value chain, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is pleased to introduce its ongoing Controlled Supply Chain Scheme Pilot Project. The project, launched in 2022, was strategically developed to overcome the obstacles that often deter small-scale operators from pursuing GOTS certification.

Recognising that administrative complexities and financial burdens can impede these operators, the controlled supply chain scheme (CSCS) system was developed to mitigate these challenges. The supply chain requires an internal control and audit system, and small-scale operations benefit from a streamlined ‘group’ certification process, which reduces costs and eases administrative barriers.

Under the CSCS framework, a supply chain comprised of a minimum of eight and a maximum of thirty small-scale facilities, each with twenty or fewer workers, could be considered a single Certified Entity after a comprehensive risk assessment by their Certification Body (CB). SANKEI MERIYASU, a Japanese textile manufacturer, recently received GOTS certification through this project. SANKEI MERIYASU's success showcases the tangible impact of the CSCS system in empowering small-scale operators.

With the pilot due to be reviewed and evaluated next year, GOTS Managing Director Rahul Bhajekar is optimistic about the future of CSCS systems within GOTS. "The controlled supply chain scheme has the potential for substantial impact, empowering small operators in the organic textile supply chain and revolutionising GOTS certification. Our pilot project is proving that the scheme works as intended, overcoming barriers and expanding opportunities. We look forward to refining and validating the CSCS requirements, in hopes of implementing it fully for all markets in the future.”

EURATEX welcomes the unanimous vote in support of the new rules of origin under the PEM Convention, as a historic achievement. Facilitating trade and investments in the “PanEuroMed” region (covering 27 EU member states and 24 partner countries in the neighbourhood region)¹ is top priority region for the EU, as trade with these countries accounted for €677 billion in 2023. For the EU textile and clothing sector, the region represents 35% of its exports and 21% of its imports.
 
In 2013 the European Commission adopted a package of proposals aimed at increasing trade between the European Union and neighbouring countries in the Pan-Euro-Mediterranean (PEM) region. The proposal introduced modernised rules of origin of the PEM convention, lifting the prohibition of duty-drawback and introducing the principle of “full cumulation”.

Today, after ten years of intense negotiations which EURATEX supported, the European Commission reached a full and final agreement with all PEM partners. This is a landmark achievement that will unlock the full potential of the Euro-Mediterranean area as the biggest and most integrated region of advanced manufacturing and trading of sustainable textiles and clothing. The rules adopted today will accelerate the integration of T&C supply chains and boost T&C production and trade within the region, both in the East and Southern borders of the EU. In a moment when companies are looking at moving their production from Asia to nearby, like-minded and more reliable countries , it is very timely to have the PEM Convention implemented.

EURATEX’s President, Mr Alberto Paccanelli, commented: “This is a strategic trade deal that can help European companies recover from the multiple crisis which we face since 2020”. He continued “We call on the European Union to not stop here, but keep up the efforts to secure trade deals that are good for European companies and their competitive position in the world. The next objective should be the adoption of the EU-Mercosur Agreement and a conclusive settlement of all trade disputes with the United States”.    
 
According to Director General Dirk Vantyghem, “today’s unanimous vote in favour of the modernised PEM rules is good news for our industry.. We should now engage with these partner countries to fully exploit the potential of these new rules. EURATEX is ready to engage in an industrial dialogue with the companies from the PEM Countries to facilitate their transition to the new framework”.

¹ The PanEuroMed contracting parties are: the EU, the EFTA States (Switzerland, Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein), the Faroe Islands, the participants in the Barcelona Process (Algeria, Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, the territories of West Bank and Gaza, Syria, Tunisia and Turkey), the participants in the EU's Stabilisation and Association Process (Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Republic of North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo), the Republic of Moldova, Ukraine.

Sustainable fashion and sportswear must be high on the political agenda:
Three University of Manchester academics who specialise in fashion and textiles have criticised the Government for failing to take action to boost sustainability in the UK fashion and sportswear industries.

In an article published by the University’s policy engagement unit Policy@Manchester to coincide with the 20th annual Recycle Week, Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon highlight that, of the one million tonnes of textiles disposed of every year in this country, 300,000 tonnes end up in landfill or incineration with figures suggesting 10 per cent of global CO2 emissions may come from the fashion industry.

And they warn that the damage inflicted by discarded sportswear is often overlooked, “despite an over-reliance on polyester garments, which are harmful to the environment as the fabric releases microfibres and takes hundreds of years to fully biodegrade.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon stress the importance of establishing “sustainable behaviour throughout the supply chain” and praise the European Commission for proposing an “extended producer responsibility (EPR)” for textiles in the EU which “aims to create appropriate incentives to encourage producers to design products that have a reduced environmental impact at the end of their life.”

This contrasts with the UK where, they argue, “tackling sustainability in the fashion industry has lost its place on the political agenda.”

"We are calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”
Lindsay Pressdee, Dr Amy Benstead and Dr Jo Conlon

The University of Manchester academics contend that there has been “disappointing lack of progress from the UK Government” following the House of Commons Environmental Audit Committee’s Fixing Fashion report in 2019.

They continue: “This report included a call for the use of EPR as well as other important recommendations such as a ban on incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled and a tax system that shifts the balance of incentives in favour of reuse, repair and recycling to support responsible companies. We urge the Government to think again and drive forward the Committee’s recommendations in order to put sustainable fashion back on the political agenda.”

Pressdee, Benstead and Conlon also criticise Ministers for abolishing the standalone GCSE in textiles which provided many young people with the ability to mend clothing such as football kits instead of throwing them away.

They write: “We are therefore calling on the Government to reintroduce textiles as part of the school curriculum to engage young people in sustainable materials and equip them with the basic skills required to repair clothes.”

The University of Manchester has launched a new project dedicated to tackling the impact of textile waste in the football industry through the provision of workshops tasked with transforming surplus football shirts into unique reusable tote bags, whilst educating local communities on the environmental impacts of textile waste and how to extend the life of garments. The initiative aims to provide a fun, responsible way to keep kits in circulation while shining a light on the problem.

Cinte Techtextil China 2024, one of Asia’s leading technical textiles and nonwovens trade fair, will take place from 19 – 21 September 2024 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. In its capacity as a well-established platform for the latest textiles, nonwovens, and equipment, the 18th edition of the fair will offer business opportunities across the industry supply chain. With the previous edition attracting 467 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions across 40,000 sqm, the organisers are looking to build on that success at next year’s show.

With next year’s fair expected to again see strong domestic and international participation, the previous edition featured the return of the Taiwan Pavilion, the 40-exhibitor strong European Zone, and seven Chinese regional pavilions. At every edition, multiple fringe events enhance business connections and provide insights to fairgoers. In 2023, key highlights included the 11th China International Nonwovens Conference, the Advanced Technical Textiles Industry Chain Synergistic Innovation Development Forum, various marine textile and rope netting events, and the “Kingsafe Dangs” University Students’ Showcase.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA).

TrusTrace, a SaaS (Software as a Service) company with a platform for supply chain traceability and compliance data management, announced that PIP Global Safety, a supplier of protective workwear equipment with over 30 brands globally, has selected the TrusTrace platform to support its traceability needs, including evidence collection to prove compliance for the UFLPA (Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act).

PIP Global Safety will now leverage verified, real-time data on the TrusTrace platform to provide deeper visibility into the cotton used within the Company’s PPE and workwear products. The partnership will also improve the efficiency of chain of custody data collection for UFLPA compliance – a U.S. regulation that is compelling companies to assess risks in their supply chain and implement processes to ensure that suppliers are not using forced labor.

PIP Global Safety previously managed their supply chain traceability manually; now, TrusTrace will automate the process, changing how data is collected, digitized and shared. “After an extensive vetting process, we selected TrusTrace as our traceability platform because of their ability to provide us with detailed, product-level data that enables us to thoroughly and accurately map our supply chains,” said Nathan McCormick, Senior VP of Operations & Integrated Supply Chain at PIP Global Safety. “While a lot of laws and regulations around due diligence have not yet come into force, we are taking a proactive approach to ensure that we’re ahead of the curve to support our customers’ needs while proactively monitoring for risk of forced labor in our supply chain.”

In addition to supporting regulatory compliance, TrusTrace supports PIP Global Safety’s long-standing sustainability and social responsibility initiatives. PIP Global Safety has pledged to continually identify opportunities to minimize their environmental footprint while still maximizing protection against occupational hazards. This commitment extends to multiple aspects of the business, including Manufacturing Processes, Sustainability-Driven Programs, Recycled Products, Social Sustainability and Future Initiatives.

Solvay announced the future Board of Directors of SYENSQO, effective upon completion of the planned separation of Solvay into two companies – SOLVAY and SYENSQO – which is on track to be completed in December 2023.

SYENSQO’s Board will be composed of 10 members, including 6 independent members, 3 members representing the reference shareholder, Solvac, and the company CEO. They have deep expertise in specialty industries, international business operations, risk management, corporate governance, finance and clean technology.

The following individuals will serve on the SYENSQO Board of Directors:
Rosemary Thorne will serve as independent Director and Chair of the SYENSQO Board, as well as Chair of the Board’s Finance Committee. She is currently an Independent Director on the Solvay Board of Directors, appointed in 2014, and Chair of the Board’s Audit Committee. She is also an Independent Director on the Board of Merrill Lynch International (UK), a wholly-owned subsidiary of Bank of America, serving as Chair of the Audit Committee. Ms. Thorne has decades of financial leadership experience across a wide range of industries. She previously served as Chief Financial Officer at J. Sainsbury, the UK’s largest supermarket chain at the time; Bradford & Bingley; and Ladbrokes. Ms. Thorne previously sat as an Independent Director on the Boards of Royal Mail Group, Cadbury Schweppes, Santander UK, First Global Trust Bank and Smurfit Kappa Group.

Dr. Ilham Kadri will serve as Chief Executive Officer and member of the Board of Directors of SYENSQO. She is currently CEO and President of the Executive Committee at Solvay. Ms. Kadri has successfully led the turnaround of Solvay, delivering double-digit EBITDA growth and 18 consecutive quarters of positive free cash flow, deleveraging the balance sheet and promoting superior people engagement. She is an independent Board member at A.O. Smith and L’Oréal. She is active in non-profit organizations, as Chair of the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD), member of the steering committee of the European Round Table of Industrialists (ERT) as well as a permanent member of the World Economic Forum’s International Business Council (WEF). Ms. Kadri has extensive leadership experience across a variety of industries in four continents and with leading industrial multinationals, including Shell, UCB, Huntsman, Dow, Sealed Air. Prior to Solvay, she was CEO and President of Diversey in the USA, led the company’s return to profitability and resulting spin off and divestiture to Bain Capital. She founded two non-Profit foundations: the Solvay Solidarity Fund in Belgium in 2020 which supported more than 7000 families affected by Covid-19 and natural disasters; and founded the ISSA Hygieia Network in 2015 in the USA, to help women in the cleaning industry. She received two Doctor Honoris Clausa from EWHA University in Korea and Université de Namur in Belgium.

Julian Waldron will serve as independent Director and Chair of the Audit Committee. He currently serves as Deputy Executive Chairman of privately-held Albea Group, a global beauty and personal care packaging company which operates 35 facilities in Europe, Asia and the Americas. Mr. Waldron has held senior leadership roles at several leading listed companies in the industrial, technology and services sectors and brings a wealth of expertise in finance and business operations. Prior to joining Albea in 2022, he was Chief Financial Officer of Suez for three years after serving as Chief Financial Officer and subsequently Chief Operating Officer of Technip. He started his career at UBS Warburg where he spent 14 years. Mr. Waldron also served as an independent Board member and Chairman of finance, risk and investments at Carbon Clean, a privately-owned carbon capture company dedicated to achieving net zero.

Heike Van de Kerkhof will serve as independent Director and Chair of the Nomination Committee. She currently sits on the Board of OCI N.V.. Ms. Van de Kerkhof brings more than 30 years of experience in the chemicals, oil & gas and materials industries, having served in numerous leadership roles around the globe. From 2020 to 2023, she was Chief Executive Officer of Archroma Management, a global specialty chemicals company. During her tenure, she successfully completed the transformational acquisition of Huntsman’s Textile Effects business. Prior to her role at Archroma, Ms. Van de Kerkhof served as Vice President of Lubricants, Western Hemisphere at BP, and held positions at Castrol, The Chemours Company, and Neste Corporation. She also held many leading roles within DuPont over 18 years.

Matti Lievonen will serve as independent Director and Chair of the Compensation Committee. He is currently an independent director on the Solvay Board, appointed in 2017. Mr. Lievonen is a proven executive in the energy, forestry, power and automation industries with an extensive track record of leading businesses through climate transition. For over ten years until 2018, he served as Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Neste Corporation, a global leader in next-generation renewable fuels and chemicals. During his time at Neste, Mr. Lievonen successfully promoted the development of clean fuels as well as Finland’s bioeconomy strategy in advancing renewable transportation fuels. He has also been involved with organizations such as Fortum Board, SSAB, Nynäs AB, Ilmarinen, and the HE Finnish Fair Foundation. Until 2021, Mr. Lievonen was also Chairman of the Board of Directors at Fortum. He has been recognized for his admirable leadership and expertise, and in 2016 was awarded an Honorary Doctorate of Technology by the Aalto University Schools of Technology.

Dr. Françoise de Viron will serve as non-independent Director, Chair of the ESG Committee and Vice-Chair of the Board. She is currently a director of the Solvay Board, appointed in 2013. Ms. de Viron is a regarded academic leader and has extensive experience in innovation, R&D and qualitative research. She is a Professor Emeritus at the Faculty of Psychology and Education Sciences and Louvain School of Management at UCLouvain in Belgium where she has been an Academic Member of various groups at UCLouvain. Ms. de Viron previously served as the president of AISBL EUCEN – the European Universities Continuing Education Network. Prior to her university position, from 1985 to 2000, she was in charge of developing Artificial Intelligence applications at Tractebel S.A. (now Tractebel-Engie).

Roeland Baan will serve as independent Director. He currently serves as President and Chief Executive Officer of Topsoe, a privately-held leading provider of clean energy and petrochemical technologies. He is also Chairman of the Supervisory Board of SBM Offshore NV. Roeland Baan has extensive experience in supply chain management, M&A, business development and operations management. Prior to joining Topsoe in 2020, he was President and CEO of Outokumpu and has held several executive roles at global organizations such as Aleris International, ArcelorMittal and SHV NV. He spent over 16 years in various roles across the globe at Shell, living in South America, in Africa and in the United Kingdom.

Edouard Janssen will serve as non-independent Director. He is currently a Director on the Solvay Board, appointed in 2021. Earlier this year, he was appointed Chief Financial Officer of D’Ieteren Group, a European leader in automotive distribution services. Mr. Janssen is also a Board member of privately-held Financière de Tubize and Union Financière Boël, as well as Co-Founder and Chair of Trusted Family. Mr. Janssen is active in academics, as Vice-Chair of the International Advisory Board of the Solvay Brussels School of Economics and Management and on the advisory board of the INSEAD HGIBS. He brings expertise in finance, strategy, entrepreneurship, business management, planning and marketing. He has served as Solvay’s Vice President in strategy and M&A between 2019 and 2021, and prior to that, he was the US-based General Manager for North- and Latin America at Solvay’s Aroma Performance Global Business Unit.
 
Dr. Mary Meaney will serve as non-independent Director. She is currently a member of the Board of Directors and of the Audit Committee of Groupe Bruxelles Lambert SA. She also sits on the Board of Directors and the Remuneration Committee of Beamery, the privately-held talent management company. She is a member of the Board of Directors and of the Finance Committee of Imperial College, London.Dr. Meaney will bring expertise in Strategy, M&A, and change management, which she acquired over a 24-year career at McKinsey. She was a Senior Partner, served on the McKinsey Shareholders Council and led McKinsey’s global Organization practice.

Nadine Leslie will serve as independent Director and is based in the United States of America. She is currently a member of the Board of Directors of Provident Financial Services , as well as a Non-Executive Director of Seven Seas Water Corporation, a water and wastewater treatment multinational company. She also sits on the Board of Trustees of Hackensack Meridian Health Network and is active as strategic consultant for civil engineering firm T&M Associates. Over a 22-year career at Suez, Ms. Leslie held several leadership positions, the last one being Chief Executive Officer of Suez North America, until 2022. Previously she served as Executive Vice President Health & Safety.

The mission of Accelerating Circularity is to create new supply chains and business models to turn textile waste into mainstream raw materials. Accelerating Circularity has created a working group, the Alliance of Textile Chemical Recyclers (ACTR), to meet and address the textile industry with a common voice to facilitate accurate information on textile chemical recycling.

“We formed this collective to move chemical recycling technology forward, share common definitions, and address policies in a collaborative way to maximize the elimination of textile waste to landfills and incineration” explained Karla Magruder, Founder and President of Accelerating Circularity. “Chemical recycling technology has many benefits, including quality more similar to virgin fiber and the ability to recycle multiple times.”

ACTR plans to provide the industry with information on how textile chemical recycling can:

• offer solutions for diverting textile waste to landfill
• enable textile to textile recycling versus incineration/landfill
• provide sustainably sourced/circular materials
• support brand/retailers/producers in achieving their CO2 reduction targets
• provide long term price stability and consistent supply of raw materials versus virgin

Members of the Alliance include founding members Eastman, Lenzing, and The LYCRA Company, as well as key innovators Circ®, Sappi, Renewcell, Infinited fiber, Worn Again Technologies, Gr3n, CuRe Technology, and OnceMore® from Sodra.

As a first step, the ACTR (Alliance of Chemical Textile Recycling) is introducing a dictionary of common terms developed to educate the industry on the chemical recycling of textiles.