From the Sector

Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will be providing information on its extensive range of coating and finishing technologies for the production of nonwovens and technical textiles at the forthcoming Techtextil India exhibition.

“India is already a very important market for Monforts and there are exciting prospects ahead for Indian manufacturers of technical textiles, who are well positioned to capitalise on growth opportunities,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski, who will be at the Monforts stand in Hall 4, booth C52 at the show. “India has one of the largest working-age populations in the world and a complete textile value chain for both natural and synthetic fibres.”

In addition, he adds, India’s government, through its Ministry of Textiles, has been actively promoting the growth of technical textiles through various programmes based on investment promotion, subsidies, the creation of infrastructure and the stimulation of consumption.

As a result, India’s Ministry of Textiles is forecasting that the growth of technical textiles in the country will be over 18% annually in the next few years, from a value of US$16.6 billion in 2018 to US$28.7 billion in 2021.

Value addition

High value-added technical products such as wide-width digital printing substrates, carbon fabrics for high-performance composites, filter media, flame retardant barrier fabrics and heavy-duty membranes are now being coated on Monforts texCoat ranges and finished with the company’s industry-leading Montex stenters.

“Since we acquired the technology that our coating units are based on in 2015, we have made a lot of refinements,” says Hans. “All of these developments are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. At the same time, our latest multi-functional coating heads offer an unprecedented range of options, with a wide range of modules available.”

The texCoat user interface is now equipped with the unique Monforts visualisation system and the magnetic doctor blade has greater power reserves. Options include a carbon fibre-reinforced composite coating drum with a more scratch-resistant surface and maximum rigidity and remote control which simplifies exact adjustment for the operator.

Montex stenters in special executions are meanwhile ideal for the drying and finishing of both technical woven fabrics and nonwovens and characterised by high stretching devices in both length and width.

“The European-built Montex range of stenters has earned its leading position in the technical textiles market due to the overall robustness, reliability and economy of these machines,” Hans concludes. “Whatever the intended end-product – and we continue to discover potentially new areas in which technical textiles can be utilised all the time – we have the machine specification and know-how to turn ideas into reality. In India we also benefit from the strong sales and service support of A.T.E. Enterprises.”

Texchtextil India takes place alongside World of Composites at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai from November 20-22.

With the increased global push for environmentally friendly and sustainable paper-based packaging solutions, Sappi has made great strides in developing breakthrough proprietary barrier technology to offer new opportunities to satisfy this need. These unique solutions enabled Sappi to closely collaborate with the world’s largest food and beverage company, Nestlé to support the launch of the YES! snack bar wrapped in recyclable paper. Sappi worked in partnership with Nestlé and packaging supplier, Constantia Flexibles to develop solutions suitable for recyclable paper production processes.

Susanne Oste, Vice President of Innovations and Sustainability at Sappi Europe commented: “Sappi has been working with leading consumer brand owners to develop and supply renewable paper-based packaging solutions understanding and supporting the goals of making their packaging recyclable without compromising on food protection and shelf life. One example of this is the new Sappi Guard range of products providing brand owners with a paper confectionery wrapper to meet market demand for more sustainable products.”

Notus Composites has achieved a major manufacturing milestone when the company’s one millionth m2 of fire retardant (FR) epoxy prepreg was shipped from its state-of-the-art facility in the UAE this month. Notus are supplying FR materials for several high profile infrastructure projects in the Middle East, with this latest batch of material being supplied for the new composite Museum of the Future in Dubai.

The one million m2 milestone was reached during a recent production run of Notus’ EPFR-609 glass fibre reinforced epoxy prepreg - a user friendly, long out life, FR prepreg designed for low pressure/vacuum curing at temperatures from 85-120˚C. EPFR-609 can also be supplied as a resin film or as Notus N1-Preg, the company’s versatile single sided prepreg product format. Having set up in 2015 but grown considerably in the past 4 years, Notus Composites has completed an extensive program of testing at well-known fire research laboratories in the Middle East and Europe with particular focus on large scale tests to verify material behavior as part of a complete wall or façade system.

As a result, Notus Composites EPFR-609 prepreg and NE11-FR surface film is the only epoxy prepreg system to have passed the NFPA 285 exterior and curtain wall test and to have achieved an impressive B2,s1,d0 rating when testing to the European EN13501-1 standard. In addition, these materials have been approved by the UAE’s Dubai Civil Defense (one of the Middle East’s leaders in building fire safety coding) who completed a program of factory inspections and production audits as well as witnessing fire tests themselves.

At FILTECH, eurolaser will demonstrate the advantages of a large-format laser system in the processing of filter material. The handling of the material from the roll is particularly comfortable with eurolaser's own conveyor system in combination with a feeding unit. At the FILTECH, eurolaser presents its L-3200 with a table size of 1,800 x 3,200 mm.

Large-format laser systems are ideal for cutting of filter material. The contactless process guarantees a constant cutting quality without tool wear. The table concept with extraction reduces dust and keeps the material in place at the same time. In addition, the thermal laser process ensures that when cutting synthetic textiles, the edges are sealed and thus protected from fraying. This makes subsequent processing much easier. The laser also allows fine details and filigree structures which cannot be produced by a knife.

Conveyor – for all materials from the roll
Especially for all materials from the roll, eurolaser offers several of its systems as conveyor versions. In these versions, the surface of the processing tables consists of a stainless steel rod mesh. They are equipped with an automatic unwinding unit as fabric feed. The unwinding speed adapts to the retraction of the conveyor and the decreasing roll diameter. For very large and heavy rolls there is also a driven unwinding unit. Integrated laser projection lines indicate the correct position so that the roll change is fast and error-free. The remaining length capture ensures that there is always enough material left on the roll for the respective job.

For even more flexibility, there is space for additional tools or marking modules next to the laser. The motion system comes from the Swiss world market leader for digital cutters ZÜND. The machines are equipped with the Laserscout software suite, which contains the right software packages tailored to the application.

With the announcement of the eligible vehicle models, the World Car Awards 2020 kickedoff today at the IAA Motor Show in Frankfurt, Germany. This year again, the majority of contenders is equipped with lightweight components for acoustic and thermal management from Autoneum. The world’s leading automobile industry awards will be presented at the New York Motor Show in the spring of 2020.

A total of 46 new vehicle models have passed the initial screening and are now contenders for trophies in the categories “World Car of the Year”, “World Luxury Car”, “World Performance Car”, “World Urban Car” and “World Car Design of the Year”, including five new fully-electric models alone. Whether it’s a lightweight underbody, a noise-absorbing carpet system or a heat-reducing engine encapsulation – most of the eligible vehicles benefit from Autoneum’s innovation leadership in thermal and acoustic management. Autoneum’s expertise extends to new forms of mobility such as electric vehicles: Also thanks to numerous Autoneum components, Jaguar’s fully-electric SUV “I-PACE” impressed the jurors for the World Car Awards 2019, which was the first model ever to be named “World Car of the Year”, “World Car Design of the Year” and “World Green Car” at the same time.

On the occasion of today’s eligibility announcement, Autoneum CEO Martin Hirzel said: “Once again, the contenders are testimony to our innovation leadership. The World Car Awards also confirm our forward-looking approach: Nominated e-models feature Autoneum components as well. Welcoming our industry’s transformation early on, we today supply environmentally sustainable, lightweight components for most electric models available worldwide.”

Gerry Malloy, President of the World Car Awards Association, added: “As a market leader, Autoneum is the ideal partner for us. Our shared commitment to innovation was a decisive factor in forming a partnership back in 2014. Nowadays, this is a crucial aspect for manufacturers and suppliers who wish to remain successful in times of industrial and technological change.”

The World Car Awards, which have been presented annually since 2004, are the world’s leading nd most widely recognized automotive industry awards. A jury comprising of more than 80 international automotive journalists selects winners in five categories. The winners of the 2020 World Car Awards will be announced in April next year at the New York Motor Show.

• Ice, style and performance

These are the keywords which describe the new eclectic creations by the Riri Group for the Fall Winter season 2020-2021: a journey through the winter, its atmosphere and its colours Mendrisio, September 2019 - Première Vision Paris (17 - 19 September) will set the stage for the new proposals for the Fall Winter 2020-21 collection by the Riri Group, a leading brand in the zip and button manufacturing sector for high couture and outdoor apparel. A preview of the new collection by the Swiss group will take place at Munich Fabric Start (3 – 5 September).

COLOURS, MATERIALS AND TEXTURES

Winter landscapes and polar tones have inspired the colours of this new collection: nuances of grey, azure and white remind us of the typical tones of ice; also dominant is the presence of blue, intense and rich in contrast thanks to the attractive green inserts; black interventions are then harmoniously inserted as part of the colour palette, creating an appealing interplay of colour references. Tapes, pullers and chains provide new pleasant tactile sensations and unexpected visual inputs, through the search for always new processing methods the iceberg effect reproduced with a laser system, the texture reminding us of snake skin, from marble effect to horn processing, and freehand diamond turning, as well as the three-dimensional drop varnishing and the stylish mother-of-pearl effect.

NOVELTIES

The guiding thread for the new “Winterstorm” collection is the use of nuanced colours and ‘ice-like’ effects, reminding us of winter landscape and climates, as in the new Decor Cristal zip with transparent chain or in the Aquatyre zip, available also in a new luminescent version. Among the new creations, the Metal 3H zip stands out: the smallest and most innovative in the collection, lightweight and with a streamlined design. The provocations for this fall-winter have reached extreme levels, with a zip made of synthetic fur and incorporated buttons, whose cover can be removed and then reapplied, to face polar temperatures with a touch of glamour. Alongside the most fashionable novelties, the research by the Riri group does not cease to surprise in the outdoor sector also as regards buttons. This is confirmed by Rislide, the snap closure with a nylon body and Zama button. The innovative b-lock pressure button – with high lateral hold – has been restyled with a silicone shaped head in three colours. As part of a collection characterised by style and performance elements, it is definitely worth mentioning Zero, also in its invisible version: this button – thanks to its elegant design, combines practicality and style without compromising on performance.

Oerlikon Barmag recently signed contracts for two orders with a total of 120 spinning positions for manufacturing polyamide POY yarn with Chinese yarn manufacturers. What makes this so special is the fact that all positions will be equipped with the EvoQuench radial quenching system for polyamide.

With this, two well-known yarn manufacturers are now committing to the EvoQuench concept to produce polyamide yarn, equipping themselves for the efficient manufacture of microfiber yarns in the process. The benefits of radial quenching vis-à-vis conventional cross-flow quenching when manufacturing microfibers are well-known from polyester processing: manufacturing outstanding quality in a more production-reliable manner, i.e. with fewer yarn breaks, is a convincing argument and makes producing polyamide microfibers considerably more efficient. “Used to create fabrics, the materials feel very pleasant to the touch”, comments Stephan Faulstich, Head of Development POY Process at Oerlikon Barmag, who has held the results of the currently sole operator of such a system in his hands. “I can imagine this will be used above all in the manufacture of sports apparel and underwear.”

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish.  

ROICA™ - the pioneer of innovative stretch fibres, took this year’s Interfilière visitors on an inspirational journey, aimed at encouraging weavers, designers and brands to “engineer” their portfolio of products in new and exciting ways. The company sets a whole new standard in how creativity and responsibility can come together for a new generation of wardrobe solutions dedicated to the contemporary consumer, carving out a new kind of fashion future.

Below some unique developments born from the collaboration among ROICA™ and key premium brands:

COSABELLA produced by Collezioni SRL: The brand sells in over 100 countries, with a premium collection of 2000 styles for every sector of lingerie and leisurewear. Latest styles use a delicate floral lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio made with ROICA™ V550 belonging to the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family for their more luxurious upscaled lines.

Livy selects Iluna Group’s contemporary graphic stretch lace with ROICA™ EF for the precious “BELLAGIO” line that includes a soft triangle bralette, a padded bra, a brief and a body for optimal comfort. The must-have range has a stunning aesthetic which represents the unique appeal of this lifestyle brand.

Sarah Borghi: the worldwide known brand of luxury Italian fashion hosiery, tights, and socks. They've dedicated more than 40 years scrutinizing the finest yarns and evolving technologies and breathing flawless life into their unique range of luxurious fashion. Today, Gizeta Calze S.r.l., owner of this brand, has developed the first line made out of sustainable ingredients that will be launched at the ROICA™ booth during Interfilière. The collection, developed in Italy by Almatex, blends together key smart fibers such as ROICA™ EF and Q-Nova®, and ROICA™ V550 with  AMNI SOUL ECO®. 

Vitamin A: the Californian brand offers a unique swimwear line rooted in female empowerment. Vitamin A’s beachwear is made with the finest materials and finishes, ensuring a product that will fit and wear beautifully for years to come. Among the  incorporated more sustainable high-performance fabrics shines a unique jacquard development by Maglificio Ripa with a 3D texture made with the GRS certified premium responsible stretch ROICA™ EF and Q-NOVA® by Fulgar. Vitamin A is a member of 1% For The Planet and  donate to environmental organizations who work to protect our oceans.

Wolford was one of the first brands to explore the real value of ROICA™. Known for its exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, lingerie and bodywear, the company has been striving to develop fully degradable items at the end of the product lifecycle. On top of last year’s award for being Cradle to Cradle Certified™ at GOLD Level certification for the biological cycle, Wolford was also recognised for its technical cycle using Econyl® yarn made by Aquafil (always blended with ROICA™ V550).

Each brand Partner brings a different yarn story firmly into the limelight, and all feature ingredients from the ROICA™ portfolio of yarns respecting the company’s commitment to ‘responsible innovation’, and which all boast important sustainable certifications.

„CONTENT, EXCHANGE AND INSPIRATION“

“We are on exactly the right track with our focal topics and concepts on the subject of Digitalisation, Sustainability and Retail Experiences. The feedback was overwhelmingly very positive. The concepts we have developed in recent months are spot on the contemporary pulse and there is considerable need for dialogue between all the parties. At PREMIUM we succeeded in breathing life into a new dynamic with the new brand mix in the halls and the focus on key looks. The stands looked truly amazing and a lot of time had clearly been spent working on the collections, too. The buyers loved the overall impact of this. They felt better appealed to, oriented – and entertained.
 
The PREMIUM GROUP stands for content, communication and inspiration. The feedback on the quality of the visitors to PREMIUM, SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM and SEEK resonated overwhelmingly positively. Visitors are taking new trends and contacts home with them. There were buyers visiting from Stylebop, Macy’s or Caliroots. 

The 2021 Schoeller Summer line makes a light-hearted impression that is inspired by PLAY. PLAY represents dynamic enjoyment and being part of a whole. Schoeller experiments with new innovative ideas and sustainable technologies, bringing lightness to the fabric and displaying huge respect for Mother Nature. The long-lasting, super-comfortable high-tech fabrics play around with the natural look but offer the functionality of synthetic materials, delight with fresh colouring and always stand for responsibly-produced textiles from Switzerland.

NATURAL TRAIL
Natural looks, warm sand, cactus or denim shades and bio-based technologies whet the appetite for an active summer. Totally uncomplicated, versatile and functional all describe the elastic, matt, light schoeller®-dynamic polyester quality in a linen look in shades of gold, green or blue. The comfortable, somewhat more compact schoeller®-dryskin double fabric in iceberg blue or sandy beige is reminiscent of linen but, thanks to its functional fibres on the inner side, surprises with outstanding moisture transport. Both are finished with the sustainable ecorepel® Bio technology, making them waterproof and feel equally comfortable worn during outdoor activities or in the city.