From the Sector

Revolutionizing textile finishing by enhancing sustainability and total process control

Baldwin Technology Company Inc., a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, is pleased to announce the launch of the TexCoat G4 at the ITMA trade show in Barcelona from June 20-26, 2019. The TexCoat G4 is the next generation of the company’s revolutionary non-contact precision application system for fabric finishing.

The system enables a continuously high quality and productive textile finishing process with zero chemistry waste and drastically reduced water and energy consumption. TexCoat G4 will be demonstrated by Baldwin in Hall H2, stand A204.

“We are immensely proud to launch the TexCoat G4 at ITMA 2019,” said Eric Norling, Vice President Precision Application Segment, Baldwin Technology. “This is an opportunity to experience an innovation that drastically improves both the process and product quality, while saving time, valuable resources and contributing to a sustainable future.”

The non-contact spray technology brings numerous advantages compared to conventional methods of applying finishing chemistry. The chemistry is uniformly distributed across the textile surface and is applied only where it is required – on one or both sides of the fabric. This is highly beneficial e.g. when applying water repellants on laminated fabrics, as it eliminates the problem of chemistry affecting the quality of the adhesion layer. Furthermore, the non-contact technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes, allowing full control of maintaining consistent chemistry coverage rates. Additionally, with no bath contamination during the finishing process, there is zero downtime during colour or fabric changeovers.

Archroma announced it has signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Textile University (NTU) in Pakistan. The memorandum will pave way for cooperation initially for a five-year period.

The partnership will explore innovations in textile research with futuristic visualization to help the textile industry to align with the fast pace of global requirements and evolutions. Another important aspect of this collaboration will be research in the field of unsaturated polyester resins in establishing quality and accessible product lines in non-conventional technical textiles. Both partners will jointly hold sessions to prepare students for the challenges of the textile industry through in-house training sessions, developmental projects, research in textile applications and process innovative methodologies by pioneering value additions. The students of NTU will also be able to join internship placement programs at Archroma’s Center of Excellence in Karachi.

Anita Tillmann on the new season, new topics and a new generation.

“We’re feeling a special vibe in Berlin at the moment. The new generation is cool, fresh, engaged. Despite the fact that we, in our 40s, 50s and up, wear the same sneakers and almost the same look as our children, it's a long time since we topped the cool list. We need the young crowd, these stars of tomorrow, their style, their ideas and their unconventional and open ways of thinking. Everyone should come to Berlin to meet them, listen to them, or at least watch them. If you only look to the past you won't create a good future.”

CRAFTING STORIES.
“Berlin feels reckless, flexible, sometimes wonderfully aimless, unconstrained and unpredictable, which gives my creativity a huge boost. I am fascinated by always meeting people from all over the world who have chosen to make Berlin their base so that they can be free and creative, because Berlin offers the space to do that – whether in a studio, or at WeWork or Berghain.”

CHANGING STORIES.
“Only 9 per cent of the 9.1 billion tonnes of waste plastic that accumulates around the world was recycled and 12 per cent was incinerated. We give talks daily on the theme of avoiding plastic and we are working with the City of Berlin on concepts for a plastic-free Fashion Week. Only together can we shake things up.”

TELLING STORIES.
“Emotionalisation begins at the trade show stand rather than in-store. If the sparks don't fly at the trade show it will be tricky to tell the brand story or implement the presentation of the brands across the sales areas. Firstly, the aim is to use key looks and storytelling to capture buyers’ attention and make statements. We are working together with the brands on showcasing differentiating factors and genuinely presenting something new. Secondly, we recommend bringing young sales staff along to Berlin as well, to internalise this dynamic as well as the brand stories; and to then make these stories come alive for end consumers across the sales areas.”

Albstadt-based circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) is exhibiting at this year’s leading textile and garment technology trade fair ITMA with the slogan “Stay a winner. With Mayer & Cie.” The focus of the company’s presentation will be on sport. Sportswear, active leisurewear and sports shoes are increasingly made of circular knitted fabrics and the long-established German firm has the right machines to cater for this trend. Mayer & Cie. is also going for the improved customer experiences that consistent digitization makes possible.

For years global demand for circular knitted goods has increased continuously. An important growth driver is the sportswear and sports fashion sector, including sports shoes. According to Euromonitor the market segment grew by about seven per cent per year between 2013 and 2017. By 2017 Euromonitor estimated its total market value to be around USD 78 billion. Lightweight synthetic fibres, new patterns and attractive functionalities are the key requirements in this area.

Mayer & Cie. can already fulfil many requirements with a portfolio of machines considered to be the largest in the industry. Lightweight mesh structures, often requested for running shirts, are a speciality of the IG 3.2 QCe interlock machine, for example. Jacquard machines from the OVJA family, in contrast, are suitable for the manufacture of shoe uppers. Compared with the conventional methods flat knitting and warp knitting, circular knitting scores points for productivity and significantly shorter set-up times.

Series production of the Spinit 3.0 E spinning and knitting machine has been under way since the end of 2018. It combines two previously separate processes – spinning and knitting – in one machine. That saves time, space and energy compared with conventional manufacturing processes. Mayer & Cie. has already won several awards for this approach, the latest being the Innovation Prize for the Climate and the Environment (IKU) that the Federal Environment Ministry and the Confederation of German Industry (BDI) award every other year. The company is presenting at ITMA its further developments of this machine.

Along with machine development Mayer & Cie. has set itself another target for ITMA and thereafter: to improve the customer experience, a task of which Sebastian Mayer is in charge. His responsibilities at Mayer & Cie. are for corporate development and digitization. Digitization of the company’s extensive customer and machinery know-how is currently under way. Customers will be able to see and test the initial results at ITMA. Available for testing will be the new Web shop, linked with an analogue model of the high-bay warehouse in Albstadt-Tailfingen, and machine maintenance by means of HoloLens.

Denim Expert Ltd. joined the Fashion Industry Charter for ClimateAction alongside other brands and suppliers.
Denim Expert Ltd. is the first manufacturer in Bangladesh to join the UNFCCC (United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change) and currently taking climate action in line with the goals established by the Paris Agreement of 2015. The company is limiting their Green House Gas (GHG) emissions supporting the world reaching climate neutrality by 2050.

The United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) is an international environmental treaty, which entered in to force on 21st March 1994, having being ratified by a sufficient number of countries. The ultimate objective of the convention is to stabilize greenhouse gas concentrations in the atmosphere at a level that will prevent dangerous human interference with the climate system.

The parties to the convention have met annually from 1995 in Conferences of the Parties (COP) to assess progress in dealing with climate change. In 1997, the Kyoto Protocol was concluded and established legally binding obligations for developed countries to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions in the period 2008–2012. The 2010 United Nations Climate Change Conference produced an agreement stating that future global warming should be limited to below 2.0°C relative to the pre-industrial level. In 2015 the Paris Agreement was adopted, governing emission reductions from 2020 onwards, through commitments of countries in Nationally Determined Contributions, lowering the target to 1.5°C. The Paris Agreement entered into force on 4 November 2016.

China is the world's largest producer and exporter of nonwoven fabrics, as well as having the largest consumer market for products made from nonwovens, making the upcoming biennial China International Nonwovens Expo & Forum (CINE – supported by Techtextil) the place to be for industry players from 3 – 5 June. This year’s event will relocate to a different venue, the Shanghai Convention & Exhibition Center of International Sourcing, located conveniently between Hongqiao airport and downtown Shanghai.

“The nonwovens market has been one of the fastest growing sectors of the Chinese textile industry over the last decade, and we expect this to continue in the coming years,” Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of the fair’s co-organiser, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, commented. “The demographic changes, evolution of the manufacturing sector and greater awareness of environmental protection that have driven growth in China, among other factors, are also evident in a number of markets in the region, particularly Southeast Asia, so we anticipate production growth will remain strong to meet export demand, even if the Chinese economy slows further.”

Reports by the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA), the Freedonia Group and Smithers Pira support this. Nonwovens output in China grew year-on-year by 9.67% for the first 11 months of 2018, exceeding the corresponding figure for 2017 of 8.71%, while demand for nonwovens is predicted to reach 4.9 million metric tons in 2022, a 6.9% per year increase over this period.

Turning to the region, in 2015 Asia occupied 43.1% of the global nonwovens market – with China alone accounting for more than half of the share – with this figure expected to increase to 47.1% in 2020. The Freedonia report also notes that healthy growth in markets nearby to China such as India, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines and Vietnam will also fuel nonwovens output in the country to meet export demand.

Globally, nonwovens demand is expected to increase 4.4% per year to 12.2 million metric tons in 2022, with developing regions being the main driver of this, in particular within Asia-Pacific. In the PP nonwovens sector, output is predicted to nearly double between 2013 and 2020, with the major drivers of this growth being baby diaper, adult incontinence and feminine hygiene products. In the durable nonwovens sector, annual growth of 6 to 7% for the period 2017 – 2023 is also anticipated for filtration, engineering construction and packaging uses.

• conceptual and commercial garments presented at exhibition in London

After two years of research Mistra Future Fashion is honoured to present, in collaboration with Centre for Circular Design at University of the Arts London and Filippa K, an exhibition pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion. Started in 2017, the industry-embedded project Circular Design Speeds takes a unique systemic approach, showcasing what could be accomplished using existing value chains as well as what the future of sustainable fashion holds. Ground-breaking textile research from University of the Arts London is questioning normative use and design of garments in creating prototypes to be worn across a spectrum of 24 hours to 50 years. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K have produced a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The research results and garments will be presented at the launch event at the University of the Arts London, on November 23rd and open to public on the 24th and 25th of November.

On Friday November 23rd the exhibition Disrupting Patterns: Designing for Circular Speeds opens up at University of the Arts London. The exhibition is the results of a two-year research project called Circular Design Speeds aiming at pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion by testing new concepts for sustainable design in an industry setting. On display are exploratory prototypes, as well as commercial garments produced by industry partner Filippa K using existing value chains. In addition, research results on innovative materials, consumer acceptance, composting studies and Life Cycle Assessments are presented. The aim of this project is to implement research results in a real fashion industry context, focusing on speed of use and maximising fabric value retention in products.

The Service Shirt developed by Professor Rebecca Earley is designed to last for over 50 years. The concept garment explores the multiple complexities, challenges and opportunities associated with design for circular business models in extended use contexts. The Service Shirt was designed as a ‘deliberate extreme’ to have a total lifecycle of 50 years. This lifecycle includes in-house and external remanufacturing processes, as well as various use cycles – often moving between single ownership and rental and sharing contexts. It becomes the lining for a jacket and then crafted in to fashion accessories, before finally being chemically regenerated in the year 2068.

On the opposite side of the spectrum the Fast-Forward concept, developed by Prof Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy, explores alternative modes of production and use for a sustainable ‘fast-fashion’ application. Advantages with regards to climate impact are enabled through lighter material choices, nonwoven fabric production, no launder, clear routes to recovery and redistributed manufacturing systems. A sliding scale of ‘speed’ from ultra-fast forward through to a more widely accepted length of use, with adaptations to production processes and end of life, is presented. The prototypes are made from a new bio-based nonwoven material co-developed with Dr Hjalmar Granberg at RISE Research Institute of Sweden & University of the Arts London. The composition of the paper is a mix of cellulose pulp and bio-based PLA fibre, making the garment 100% biodegradable or recyclable in existing paper recycling systems.

Working closely with industry partner Filippa K made commercial testing possible. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K was able to produce a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The garments are a part of Filippa K’s Front Runner series and will be available in selected stores on November 26th. With a focus on products’ length of use and maximizing fabric value retention, Filippa K are dedicated to becoming fully circular by 2030.

“Being part of the fashion industry comes with many challenges, especially when considering the fact that we are the second most polluting industry after oil. Our industry needs to change and we believe adapting to circular models, like nature’s ecosystem, is one important solution. We want to be able to offer beautiful clothing and to make business within the planetary boundaries.”
- Elin Larsson, Sustainability Director, Filippa K

To validate the design research presented, a Life Cycle Assessment was performed on the prototypes. Mistra Future Fashion affiliated Dr. Greg Peters, Chalmers University of Technology, together with additional LCA Researchers at RISE, conclude that the production of fibres and fabrics are the main processes impacting the environment during the garment life cycles. Therefore, to extend the lifetime of existing garments and design for re-use, as done in the Service Shirt, is indeed the superior alternative compared to a reference garment.

“Compared with garments of the same mass, the extended life garments represent a large improvement in environmental performance over the reference garments, outperforming the reference garments in all effect categories. This superiority is primarily a consequence of avoiding garment production via reprinting and reassembly of the initial garment to extend its useful life.”
- Dr Greg Peters, LCA Researcher at Chalmers University of Technology

Another way to circumvent the impacts of fast fashion is to develop materials with considerably lower impacts during production, and which also avoid the barriers to recycling faced by conventional garments. Instead of hinder consumers from buying new, the act of acquiring a new garment could in fact be sustainable. The paper-based short life garments considered in this assessment show considerable impact savings when compare to the benchmark garment. Dr. Peters says,

“The paper-based garments benefit from the lower impacts of the material (fibre production, spinning and knitting) compared with conventional cotton, from their relatively light weight and also on account of the lower impacts in garment production and use.”

New products for photopolymer and laser sinter printing methods from BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH (B3DPS) are on show from November 13 to 16 at Stand F20 in Hall 3.1 at this year’s formnext fair in Frankfurt. The BASF subsidiary is also announcing several new partnerships for the development and distribution of groundbreaking 3D printing solutions and products.

B3DPS has entered into a strategic partnership with the US company Origin, San Francisco, California for the further development of photopolymer printing processes. “Within the framework of an open business model, we are combining BASF’s material know-how with Origin’s expertise in printer software programming and the manufacture of the corresponding hardware,” explained Volker Hammes, Managing Director BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH. The collaboration has already shown the first signs of success. Origin has developed a new printing method where BASF’s new Ultracur3D photopolymers can be processed particularly well. The technology offers an optimal combination of a good surface finish and high mechanical stability, while also allowing for high material throughput.

B3DPS is working together with Photocentric, a manufacturer of 3D printers and their corresponding software and materials, on the development of new photopolymers and large-format photopolymer printers for mass production of functional components. Based in Peterborough, UK and Phoenix, USA, Photocentric has developed and optimized the use of LCD screens as image generators for its own printing systems. The two partners plan to offer the industry 3D printing solutions that replace parts of traditional manufacturing processes such as injection molding for small series, as well as enabling the production of large components.

The objective of the cooperation with Xunshi Technology, a Chinese printer manufacturer headquartered in Shaoxing, and operates in USA under the name Sprintray, will be opening new fields of application in 3D printing for the Ultracur3D product range of B3DPS.

Ultracur3D specialties for photopolymer printing processes
B3DPS has grouped well-established and new photopolymers designed for the respective 3D printing processes under the brand name Ultracur3D. BASF has developed unique raw materials for its new products that enable special part properties.
“Our Ultracur3D portfolio enables us to offer customers various UV-curable materials for 3D printing that provide far better mechanical properties and higher long-term stability than most available materials,” explained András Marton, Senior Business Development Manager at B3DPS. He added: “These materials have been developed for functional components that are subject to high stress.”

Expansion of distribution network for filaments
Innofil3D, a subsidiary of B3DPS, is entering into a partnership with Jet-Mate Technology, based in Tjanjin, China, for the distribution of plastic filaments in China. In parallel, a distribution agreement has been concluded with M. Holland in Northbrook, USA for the distribution of filaments in USA. “Since the USA is the largest market for filaments, we intend to strengthen our activities there,” said Jeroen Wiggers, Business Director 3DP Solutions for Additive Extrusion at B3DPS, adding: “Asia is another important market for us. We will be developing further distribution channels there and putting our Ultrafuse filaments on the Asian market in 2019.”

BASF’s portfolio of filaments for 3D printing are comprised of two categories; the well-established Innofil3D filaments based on generic polymers for conventional applications and polymer-based Ultrafuse filaments for advanced formulations used in demanding technical applications. One of the broadest filament selections on the market, this portfolio covers customer requirements ranging from prototype to industrial-scale production.

SLS: new 3D printing material with fire protection classification
New flame-resistant Ultrasint Polyamide PA6 Black FR meets UL94 V2 fire protection standards and is a new material class for use in selective laser sintering (SLS) processes, distinguished by high stiffness and thermal stability. In cooperation with one of the global leaders of public transportation vehicles, B3DPS has developed new components that meet vehicle fire protection requirements. “Together with our partner, we are currently producing prototypes, spare parts, and small series components, and are working to further improve flame resistance to meet additional certification specifications,” explained Hammes.
BASF introduced Ultrasint Grey PA6 LM X085 at AMUG this spring and now is followed by another product on show at formnext. Ultrasint PA6 Black LM X085 is based on polyamide 6, and can be processed at 175-185 degrees Celsius therefore making it suitable for most current SLS machines.

B3DPS adds polypropylene to its 3D printing portfolio
Through the acquisition of Advanc3D Materials GmbH in July 2018, B3DPS has expanded its range with numerous materials for use on laser sinter machines, including polyamide Adsint PA12, Adsint PA11, Adsint PA11CF and Adsint TPU flex 90.
Ultrasint PP is a special highlight. This polypropylene-based product exhibits outstanding mechanical properties and is frequently used in standard industrial production as it offers a good balance between price and performance. Ultrasint PP is distinguished by excellent plasticity, low moisture uptake, and resistance to liquids and gases. Prototypes and small batches can now be produced from the same material as used for traditional serial production. Post treatments such as thermoforming, sealing, and dyeing can be performed after printing.

More exhibitors than ever joined Yarn Expo Autumn 2018, which was held concurrently with ITMA ASIA + CITME from 15 – 17 October at the National Exhibition Convention Centre (Shanghai). 501 suppliers from 14 countries & regions participated, with new countries to the show including France. This international diversification, as well as strong domestic numbers, demonstrated Yarn Expo’s increasing recognition as a top show in the industry. What’s more, almost 80% of exhibitors were returning from successful past editions, showing their support of the fair.

“Although Yarn Expo was unable to be held concurrently with Intertextile Apparel this year, more industry players recognise this fair as a top show for yarn and this is why the turnout remained very strong,” explained Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK). “Our product range was more diverse than ever as exhibitors increasingly see China as the ideal market to introduce their latest innovations. For example, this year we’ve welcomed premium French linen and advanced Italian chemical fibres. Yarn Expo is a platform that promises to gather all of the top suppliers under one roof for genuine buyers.”

With demand rising within the Chinese market for fancy & specialty yarns, suitable for stand-out fashion trends, the trade potential for this product category was high. Business for eco-friendly and natural yarns was also reported to remain steady this edition, reflected by the India Pavilion which increased in size by around 40% this year.

• 16-18 October 2018, Kay Bailey Hutchinson Convention Center, Dallas, TX

A skateboard, architectural panels and a rigid roof for boats – all three products rely on CHOMARAT composite reinforcements. The three designs will be on display at CAMX Expo in the demonstration area of COMPOSITES ONE, partner of CHOMARAT and leader in composites distribution in North America. CHOMARAT’s reinforcements enable to give unique properties to these three applications.

Proof positive: reinforcements offer design flexibility & improved mechanical performance

These three applications give CHOMARAT the opportunity to demonstrate the performance of its uniquely designed reinforcements in real time. “The skateboard combines Rovicore™, the multi-function closed-mold reinforcement developed by CHOMARAT, with C-Weave™, its woven carbon fabric that offers both structural performance and aesthetics to the design. Rovicore™ provides the permeability, while C-Weave™ provides the carbon aspect,” explains Brian Laufenberg, president, CHOMARAT North America.

During the live demos, architectural panels using Rovicore™ and a rigid boat roof in RTM will also be made. “With 60 years of expertise in designing composite reinforcements, CHOMARAT demonstrates that its reinforcements offer excellent mechanical performance and design for a large number of projects in sectors as diverse as sport and leisure, marine and building,” adds Travis IRVIN, Sales Manager and Closed Mould Process Expert at CHOMARAT.

Meet CHOMARAT teams at BOOTH V39 and see Live demos in the COMPOSITES ONE demonstration area at CAMX 2018 EXPO