From the Sector

Was ist Mikroplastik genau? Welche Bewertungsverfahren für Kunststoffeintrag in die Umwelt gibt es? Worin unterscheiden sich Duroplaste, Thermoplaste und Elastomere? Das neu erschienene »Kompendium Kunststoff in der Umwelt« zielt darauf ab, solch grundlegende Fragen rund um Plastik in der Umwelt zu beantworten – völlig unabhängig von bestimmten Fachdisziplinen. Das Kompendium dient als Hilfsmittel, um den gesellschaftlichen und wissenschaftlichen Diskurs zu diesem Thema auf eine gemeinsame fachliche Basis zu stellen.

Das Themenfeld Plastik in der Umwelt ist für unterschiedliche Fachdisziplinen relevant. Definitionen und Fachtermini rund um Kunststoffe werden allerdings oft fachspezifisch bzw. kontextbezogen genutzt. Entsprechend existieren für einen Begriff zuweilen unterschiedliche Bedeutungsebenen. Um eine gemeinsame Basis im Diskurs zum Thema Plastikverschmutzung und seine Auswirkungen auf Mensch und Umwelt zu schaffen, haben Wissenschaftler*innen das 54 Seiten umfassende Kompendium »Kunststoff in der Umwelt« erstellt. »Für eine inter- und transdisziplinäre Zusammenarbeit zu Kunststoff in der Umwelt ist ein gemeinsames Grundverständnis unabdingbar«, erklärt der federführende Autor Jürgen Bertling des Fraunhofer UMSICHT.

Einheitliche Definitionen auf Deutsch und Englisch
Das im März auf Deutsch erschienene »Kompendium Kunststoff in der Umwelt« adressiert die Fachöffentlichkeit, beantwortet aber auch grundlegende Fragen rund um Plastik in der Umwelt. Somit kann es auch als Hilfsmittel für Behörden, Politik, Medien, Umweltorganisationen und die interessierte Öffentlichkeit genutzt werden. Die englische Version ist derzeit noch in Bearbeitung. Es wurde auch erarbeitet, um eine einheitliche Sprachregelung innerhalb des BMBF-Forschungsschwerpunkts »Plastik in der Umwelt« sowie in der Kommunikation nach außen zu unterstützten.

In insgesamt 13 Kapiteln werden die jeweils wichtigsten Begriffe und Definitionen benannt, erläutert und kontextualisiert. Das Kompendium arbeitet dabei vor allem mit bestehenden Definitionen (u. a. DIN/CEN/ISO-Normen oder rechtliche Definitionen aus der bundesdeutschen Gesetzgebung); eine eigene Definitionsarbeit wird nur sehr begrenzt geleistet. Dabei wird im Einzelfall verdeutlicht, wie Begriffe korrekt verwendet und welche Begriffe nicht gebraucht werden sollten. Das Kompendium beinhaltet zudem ein Stichwortverzeichnis, sodass die Erläuterungen zu gesuchten Begriffen schnell ausfindig gemacht werden können.

Das Kompendium »Kunststoff in der Umwelt« wurde im Rahmen des Querschnittsthemas »Begriffe und Definitionen« des BMBF-Forschungsschwerpunkts »Plastik in der Umwelt« erarbeitet. Wissenschaftler*innen aus den Verbundprojekten ENSURE, EmiStop, Innoredux, InRePlast, MaReK, MicBin, MicroCat»ch_Balt, MikroPlaTaS, PlastikBudget, PLASTRAT, RAU, ResolVe, RUSEKU, revolPET, SubµTrack und TextileMission haben sich aktiv an der Erstellung des Kompendiums beteiligt.

The viscose speciality fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres has joined the ZDHC programme "Roadmap to Zero".

The non-profit organisation with more than 160 contributors worldwide has set itself the goal of completely eliminating harmful substances from the textile value chain. The ZDHC guidelines provide producers of Man-made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF) with uniform criteria for measuring indicators such as wastewater, air emissions and other process-related parameters. The measured data is independently monitored and published.

Kelheim Fibres sees its ZDHC contributorship as another building block on the road to even more sustainable fibre production:
"We want to develop our industry with our know-how towards a greener future. Sustainability is an integral part of our corporate philosophy and strategy. We fully support ZDHC's vision of a widespread implementation of sustainably chemistry, driving innovations and best practices in textile, apparel and footwear industries to protect consumers workers and the environment," says Craig Barker, CEO at Kelheim Fibres.

"ZDHC provides us with access to a range of best practices in chemical management and gives us the opportunity to network and learn from each other with like-minded industry partners. ZDHC's collaborative approach will accelerate the shift to a more responsible industry and we want to contribute to that."

• The new platform created for b2b / b2c online sales entirely dedicated to the business of denim.

The year 2020 witnessed an acceleration in the importance of online sales. It is now clear to anyone involved the business of sales that e-commerce represents the future.

That’s when the creative idea by Laura Pianazza, founder of DENIMAZING (combination of DENIM and AMAZING), was launched on the platform powered by VELVET.  Its prime objective is to help small and medium sized companies to increase their online sales, focusing on the development of marketing strategies in an omnichannel environment thanks to an intelligent balance between technology and professional experience.

Laura Pianazza derives her professional experience from the editorial sector, where she was active for many years on a European level for a trade magazine specialized in the denim business. Thanks to this background, she was able to develop a strong network of contacts with entrepreneurs, top management and marketing agencies. Her constant interaction with customers shed light on the digital challenges present in most Italian companies: firstly, the fragmentation of services offered online and, secondly, the lack of integration between technology and marketing strategies. The latter is the one most often neglected by firms and Laura recognized many risked not being well prepared for this transformational shift in business by investing little time and at a slow pace.

The DENIMAZING project works side by side with denim fabric manufacturing companies (b2b), finished product brands and distribution companies (b2c), all with the same common denominator: denim. A unique service assisting raw materials manufacturers in finding market niches in companies that create product, who in their own right would like their brand to be seen and sold to a growing customer base. In the b2b landscape, companies can sell their own fabrics by the meter thanks to their own 3D presentation and customers can virtually visit their showrooms. Similarly, brands will have the same possibility to sell their creations as on a real e-commerce site, thanks to virtual tours in their showroom and specific areas for sales and/or chatting/videocalls with end-customers. Instead, for companies providing supply chain services (coloring, washing, etc.), individual virtual rooms will be made available inside the marketplace, in order to speak directly with sales managers from brands and the fabric companies.

The business side is just one aspect of this project. Thanks to its partnership with the marketing and online sales agency VELVET, DENIMAZING grows based upon a series of key tasks during different phases, namely: platform construction, marketing and advertising, both traditional and via web and social medias.

Not only has Laura has added a series of high-level technology/web master courses to her experience, but DENIMAZING also brings together a team of qualified professionals having a longtime experience in different fields of the denim business: sales, entrepreneurs, web design and marketing, while the end-customer will be in direct contact with the headquarters for assistance, customer care and updates.

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC) has announced its industry-leading wet wipes folding machines the Rx200 and Mako Clipper are now available with high-content alcohol, measuring as much as 70 percent.

Previously, PCMC wet wipes machines operated with less than 20 percent alcohol, producing disinfectant wipes for personal, home, industrial and automotive use. However, the COVID-19 pandemic has created a spike in demand for sanitizing wipes that contain at least 70 percent alcohol, the key component in killing or deactivating viruses.

To help manufacturers meet the increased demand, PCMC redesigned its Rx200 and Mako Clipper to safely operate with high-content alcohol. The new designs feature increased air exchange for better ventilation and additional sensors to eliminate the risk of flash points and fires. The machines also include IDS 150/300 integrated dual stackers and a redesigned Mako saw to meet more stringent regulations and higher machine performance expectations.

• PrimaLoft and Origin Materials have launched a program to develop high-performance, carbon-negative insulating fibers for diverse apparel applications, including for leading outdoor, fashion, and lifestyle brands, as well as home goods applications such as hypoallergenic insulated bedding.
• PrimaLoft, an advanced material technology company and a world leader in the development of high-performance insulations and fabrics, will develop the fibers with Origin Materials to address demand for sustainable, high-performance materials from its over 900 global brand partners. PrimaLoft iconic brand partners include Patagonia, Stone Island, L.L. Bean, Lululemon, adidas and Nike.
• The program will focus on carbon-negative PET and next-generation polymers produced by the Origin Materials patented technology platform, which turns sustainable wood residue into cost-advantaged, carbon-negative materials that reduce the need for fossil resources.

Origin Materials, Inc. (“Origin Materials”), a leading carbon negative materials company, and PrimaLoft, an advanced material technology company and a leader in the development of high-performance insulations and fabrics, announced a new program to develop carbon-negative, insulating, high-performance fibers. The fibers will be used across a diverse array of end products, including insulating fiber for leading outdoor, fashion, and lifestyle brands, as well as home goods applications such as hypoallergenic insulated bedding.

The companies will work to rapidly develop and commercialize new products derived from Origin Materials’ platform. The collaboration will leverage the leadership position of PrimaLoft as a specialty producer of insulating fibers and filaments with over 900 global brand partners, as well as a large global network of manufacturers that employ a wide array of textile processes to make its products, including extrusion, carding, spinning, finishing, weaving, knitting, dyeing, airlaid, meltblown, and other technologies.

The collaboration builds on PrimaLoft’s “Relentlessly Responsible™” mission to elevate both performance and sustainability, through innovation. The platform includes PrimaLoft® Bio™, which was developed and launched into the market in late 2018 as an effort to battle microplastics in the ocean; PrimaLoft® P.U.R.E.™, which provides materials manufactured with greater than 50% CO2 savings; and PrimaLoft’s post-consumer recycling initiative. The next frontier for the company is non-petroleum based raw materials, including products that biodegrade and other circular economy solutions.

We aRe SpinDye (WRSD) and Gina Tricot have entered into a collaboration agreement. The partnership formed between the two companies is a strategic milestone for both parties.

"Gina Tricot has made impressive progress in the area of sustainability recently and it is fantastic that we get the opportunity to participate and contribute going forward", says Andreas Andrén, CEO of WRSD and continues: "The collaboration is completely in line with our ambitions to become an industry standard for coloring recycled polyester."

Gina Tricot is a Swedish brand that offers fashion to women in over 30 countries.
"Together with WRSD, we can create a better, more sustainable and circular fashion industry. We are convinced that the future lies in collaboration and innovation between the various tiers of our value chain", says Emma Garrote Fredman, Global production & Sustainability manager at Gina Tricot.

After a turbulent year, it seems strange to be thinking about ‘after the pandemic’, but with millions of vaccinations underway, the light at the end of the tunnel is visible. As we turn the corner, choosing technology partners that understand how to proactively respond to changing market needs and support the evolving requirements of print businesses and end customers will be vital. The printers in Mimaki’s ‘100 series’ portfolio, which consists of the high quality, high productivity entry level roll-to-roll inkjet printers the UJV100-160 UV and the JV100-160 solvent, and the high performance textile printer, the TS100-1600, are a perfect reflection of the way technology requirements are adapting in line with the industry as we look to the future. To demonstrate this, we have identified three post-pandemic technology touchpoints that will help print businesses target success amid uncertainty.

• Productivity

The pandemic has served as a major catalyst for existing trends, and our growing appetite for everything on-demand has been given a huge COVID-related boost. For printers, a digital solution that offers premium productivity, quality and efficiency at an entry-level price point is sure to be an invaluable investment to meet evolving ‘on-demand demands’. Adding a digital production element to your business doesn’t need to be daunting, complicated or overpriced – the Mimaki ‘100 series’ truly lives up to the tagline ‘Expert Printing Made Easy’, offering an incredibly intuitive user experience for streamlined, ultra-efficient printing, high-quality output, and cost-effective implementation. The powerful and productive new textile printer in the ‘100 series’, the TS100-1600, is a shining example of equipment developed with the future of the market in mind – the textile industry is fast-paced and constantly innovating, and the printer you invest in needs to keep up with your creativity.

• Diversity

2021 is set to be a period of transition. While that will mean navigating uncertainty, the ‘glass half full’ approach is to view the year ahead in terms of opportunities such as expanding your business, exploring alternative revenue streams, and taking the plunge into new markets. In the past, it may have felt as if the barriers to entry when it came to looking beyond your core business were too great. However, in a post-pandemic world, we need to break some of those barriers down and demonstrate that success with digital print is within reach if you invest in the right equipment. With the ‘100 series’ portfolio, Mimaki is acknowledging what print service providers need from their technology partners – the UJV100-160 and the JV100-160 are suitable for a wide range of applications that will allow you to easily and affordably diversify your offering, and with the TS100-1600 textile printer, it has never been easier to target growth in the thriving textile sector, even in challenging times.

• Affordability

Affordability is one of the most significant barriers to entry into new markets. 2020 was a year of unprecedented economic challenges, so it’s more important than ever to be thinking about gaining a competitive edge, and the printers in the ‘100 series’ from Mimaki have been specifically formulated to help you ramp up productivity while keeping running costs low. Whether you want to take your first foray into digital print production, expand the services you offer or simply grow your customer base, cost can be a major sticking point, which is why supporting customers is Mimaki’s number one priority, designing the ‘100 series’ around your needs and continuing to listen to how those needs are developing. Making an investment in the JV100-160 in order to move into outdoor graphics; meeting demand for faster turnaround times by adding the instantly curable UJV100-160 to your production setup; or taking a leap into new revenue streams with the TS100-160 – it’s all ‘100’ percent accessible.

Fashion 4 Development & C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub will launch The Reclothe Resource Guide during the virtual exhibit: Discover the SDGs - To Make Peace With Nature, a virtual hub convened by the United Nations Office for Partnerships April 1 - 30, 2021.

The publication's mission is to inform and educate fashion industry professionals, schools, universities, students, and new generation brands to focus on the next generation of the circular economy and make an impact on the value chain. The ReClothe guide lists all solutions, technologies, fabric suppliers, dyers, and finishers currently available and scalable globally that can really answer the new generation needs of the contemporary consumer. ReClothe will be published quarterly and focus on innovators working the best practices and opportunities in development & manufacturing for a responsible fashion industry.

The guide includes Bacx™ by Centro Seta, Bext360, DYNTEX® Biosynthetics, Eastman Naia™, ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, Iluna Group, Lanificio Zignone, Maeba International, Mending for Good, Modern Meadow, Re.VerSo™, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Santoni, Smartex, Spiber Inc., SUPREME GREEN COTTON® by Varvaressos, TINTEX Textiles, VEGEA and YKK.

For registration click here.

We aRe SpinDye ( WRSD ) signed a collaboration agreement with Superdry plc. Superdry is a fashion brand with global distribution and highly ambitious sustainability goals - where WRSD hopes to play a significant role in achieving said goals.

"We have been in conversation with each other for a significant time and now finally things have fallen into place and we are able to move forward on more concrete terms", says Andreas Andrén and continues: "Naturally it is extremely positive for us that Superdry has so ambitiously set and clear sustainability goals. With our unique expertise in sustainable dyeing of recycled polyester, we feel that we have a very clear position as a partner to Superdry."

Superdry's goals for 2030 are set high and include major initiatives in new sustainable solutions. On their website, they put this in words: "Our ambition is to become the most sustainable listed global fashion brand on the planet in 2030. Our goal continues to focus on producing the most durable product, while protecting our planet and support j s our people in everything we do. We will do the right thing and leave a positive environmental legacy. Accelerating our goals means that our commitments are in line with the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) by 2030."

Der Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik der Hochschule Niederrhein feiert in diesem Jahr ein zweifaches Jubiläum: Zum einen wird die Hochschule Niederrhein 50 Jahre alt. Zum anderen wurde vor 120 Jahren die Preußische Höhere Schule für Textilindustrie gegründet. Aus ihr entstand später die Textilingenieurschule, die 1971 in den Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik der Hochschule Niederrhein überführt wurde.

• Der diesjährige Masterkongress am 23. April 2021 nimmt dieses doppelte Jubiläum auf.
• Er läuft unter dem Titel: NOW AND THEN – MG CREATES CAREERS (Gestern, heute, morgen: Mönchengladbach macht Karrieren).

Der Fachbereich Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik, der mit der Gründung der Fachhochschule Niederrhein im Jahr 1971 entstand, bündelte die Kompetenzen der ehemaligen Textilingenieurschule in Mönchengladbach – aber auch die der Schulen in Köln, Bielefeld, Aachen, Wuppertal und natürlich Krefeld. Krefeld, ebenfalls ein traditionsreicher Textilstandort der Region, wurde für den Weggang der textilen Ausbildung nach Mönchengladbach übrigens dadurch entschädigt, dass die Verwaltung der neuen Fachhochschule nach Krefeld kam.