From the Sector

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany, and Japan. “Our sector is renowned worldwide for its reliability, know-how, and the uniquely Italian ability to combine tradition and innovation,” noted the ACIMIT president. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

Thus, technologies play an important role in providing solutions to companies engaged in the new circularity supply chain: from sorting and selection of garments to preparation phases and recycling processes. During the event several speakers agreed that the experience and capabilities of the Italian textile and textile machinery sector should be fully leveraged at this crucial stage for the entire supply chain. As President Salvadè noted, “Textile machinery companies intend to increase R&D activities in this area, collaborating with their textile customers in the belief that the circular transformation of business models also represents an opportunity for technology suppliers to increase their competitiveness.”

The first installations of the Trützschler Card TC 30i and the Trützschler Integrated Draw Frame IDF 3 are now complete – and the first customers have finished rigorous testing in direct spinning applications.

The Italian company Marchi & Fildi, headquartered in Biella, was one of the first to test the new IDF 3. The company specializes in producing pure and blended yarns made from natural or man-made fibers for flat knitting, circular knitting and weaving. Its products are used for fashion, furnishings and technical applications worldwide. It also places a strong focus on reducing its environmental impact.

Marchi & Fildi’s first trials were carried out with different fiber blends. This included a blend of 70 % soft waste cotton and 30 % polyester as the raw material for rotor direct spinning, with a yarn count in a range of Ne 8 to Ne 12 and Ne 30.
Later tests involved fiber blends of 50 % PET and 50 % recycled cotton from hard textile waste for rotor direct spinning with a yarn count of Ne 30. Experts at Marchi & Fildi stated that this material blend is typically very challenging. Processing secondary fibers made from hard textile waste requires very high competence in yarn production, which Marchi & Fildi impressively demonstrates. It also requires advanced technologies. This is due to technological challenges such as significantly lower fiber length. Trützschler’s IDF technology has a special drafting zone geometry that ensures reliable fiber guidance and controls floating fibers. It generates lower drafts than a conventional draw frame passage and avoids the risk of false drafts and count variations.

Decades of experience with the IDF technology have demonstrated that the higher the short fiber content, the better the result with IDF compared to conventional two draw frame passages. In combination with the TC 30Ri, a variant of TC 30i that has been specifically equipped and configured for processing recycled fibers, the IDF 3 delivers maximum possible quality for the production of sustainable yarns.

Overall, the company’s results showed a 75 % increase in productivity over the previous card model and a 14 % reduction in energy consumption at higher production rates. Combining the TC 30Ri and IDF 3 also enabled Marchi & Fildi to skip the drawing stage from its process, which boosts quality while saving resources and cutting costs.

China in-store, which was established under the name C-Star as an official satellite of EuroShop in Shanghai in 2015, will be held in Hall N1 of the Shanghai New International Expo Center from 3 to 5 September 2024. In consumer-friendly and tech-savvy China innovative store design plays a prominent role, which is why the trade fair specifically focuses on instore design and high-end solutions for brands. On display will be solutions for store design, fittings, but also retail technologies that help to selectively shape stores as spaces for interacting with shoppers as well as stage their brand messages.

After the success of last year’s event attracting over 100 exhibitors and almost 14,000 trade visitors, China in-store 2024 will offer over 200 providers of retail design and retail-relevant solutions the opportunity to showcase their latest instore design, retail technology and retail solutions while inviting industry professionals to explore, learn and network. The exhibited products and solutions for shopfitting and the retail industry will include store design, materials as well as surfaces and furnishings for shops – ranging from displays fixtures and mannequins to visual merchandising services and omnichannel technologies.

Since personalisation in retail is increasing in importance, the Designer Village will present design companies with trail-blazing stand designs and visual merchandising solutions. The special area will inspire visitors with innovative store concepts that improve both the brand image and customer journey. At the Retail Technology Village the latest advances in AI, VR and data analytics will be presented. These technologies enable an omnichannel experience for shoppers and convert physical stores into third places. On the Retail Stage and the Design Stage experts, retailers and brands will present the latest retail trends, shopfitting strategies and innovations that drive the retail market. A themed exhibition is dedicated to changing trends in retail area design.  

Once again proving a highlight of China in-store will be the presentation of the ERDA China (EuroShop RetailDesign Award China) on 4 September 2024; this award recognises store designs and extraordinary store concepts from the Chinese market. This year the categories were extended. 

ReHubs announces the election of its Board of Directors. The election came during the ReHubs Annual Event, this year hosted by Coleo in Barcelona, in which they presented their new Recycling Sorting Facility, prompted through their partnership with ReHubs.

The elected Board of Directors, comprising experienced and diverse industry leaders from ReHubs partner organisations, will support Executive Director Chris Deloof in developing ReHubs' capacity-building and knowledge-sharing projects. The Board includes; Acerina Trejo Machin (Resortecs), Alain Poincheval (Reju), Anna Pehrsson (TEXAID), Bouraoui Kechiche (DECATHLON), Carl Baekelandt (Concordia Textiles / PurFi), David Puyuelo Huguet (Coleo), Dirk Vantyghem (EURATEX), Félix Poza Peña (INDITEX), Mariska Boer (Boer Group), Outi Luukko (Rester), Véronique Allaire Spitzer (Refashion).

The two-day ReHubs Annual Event featured a dynamic program where ReHubs twenty-five partners to date came together to connect and strengthen relationships, fostering collaboration and the exchange of innovative ideas. Additionally, ReHubs partners received policy updates from EURATEX and their possible implications for the industry and engaged in a discussion with the European Investment Bank on their Venture Debt Program and their Advisory Services.

As hosts of this year’s Annual Event, Spain-based organisation Coleo provided an exclusive preview of their new Recycling Sorting Facility to all ReHubs partners. The pre-opening of Coleo’s innovative facility in Mataró was a highlight, showcasing their latest advancements in textile sorting and recycling.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

After a debut in 2023, Dibella exhibited again this year at the Cruise Ship Interiors Design Expo America (CSI Americas) in Miami, a leading trade fair for cruise interiors.

Under the motto “You create the stories for amazing dreams - We provide the restful sleep”, Dibella presented its latest developments in textile flat linen at the Convention Center in Miami/USA from 6 to 7 June 2024: bed linen and terry products that not only offer maximum comfort and durability but are also perfectly tailored to the special requirements of the maritime environment.

"The trade fair in Miami was a great success for us. In particular, our newly developed JAVA hand and shower towels and our VIRGINIA bed linen, both with regenerated cellulose fibers Lyocell, were very well received due to their special soft feel. We have had many rewarding discussions with existing customers and new prospects and are very much looking forward to working with them in the future,” says Marvin Groß-Hardt, Export Sales at Dibella.

CSI Americas, which has doubled in size since its inception in 2019, had more than 250 exhibitors this year. The show showcases brands in cruise design, attracting representatives from the industry's largest design firms and cruise lines each year.

drupa 2024 in Düsseldorf drew to a successful close on 7 June after eleven days. 1,643 exhibitors from 52 nations presented a showcase of innovations in the Düsseldorf exhibition halls and thrilled the trade visitors with performances. The international share of the visitors was 80%, with attendees coming from 174 countries. After Europe, Asia was the most strongly represented region with 22%, followed by America with 12%.  Asia as well as Latin America and the MENA region are markets with great growth potential, which was reflected in the significant increase in exhibitors' presence and order books.

Exhibitors praised the high level of decision-making competence of visitors. They, in turn, gave top marks to the range of products and services on offer in the 18 exhibition halls. Around 96% of all visitors confirmed that they had fully achieved the objectives associated with their visit. At over 50%, most of them came from the printing industry, followed by the packaging industry, whose share has increased significantly and which was the focus of many exhibitors as a growth driver. In total, 170,000 trade visitors attended drupa 2024.

Digitalisation
Automation took centre stage at this year’s drupa, with a strong focus on AI and smart workflows, including software solutions. It became clear that digital and analogue technologies ideally complement and benefit from each other. Traditional industry leaders presented a wide range of digital solutions, while digital pioneers integrated conventional components into their offerings. Robotics played an important role in the exhibition halls and illustrated the path towards the smart factory.

Transformation and growth
drupa made it clear that the industry has great potential for the future, even against the backdrop of many challenges, and that the prospects are promising. In the last financial year, the global printing industry achieved a turnover of around EUR 840 billion (source: Smithers) and continues to develop at varying pace worldwide.
Many new strategic alliances concluded at the trade fair reflected the opportunities that are only possible in such a concentrated form at drupa.

Sustainable technologies
Technology is the key to achieving sustainability goals - exhibitors at drupa illustrated this with numerous practice-orientated developments and concrete solutions. Top priority is given to resource efficiency and the path to a functioning circular economy. In addition, Touchpoint Sustainability from the VDMA, the German Machinery and Equipment Manufacturers’ Association, showcased current state of the art innovations, presented best-practice use cases and gave a far-reaching outlook into the future of a sustainable printing industry.

Knowledge transfer
The supporting programme with its five special forums drupa cube, drupa next age (dna) and the Touchpoints Packaging, Textile and Sustainability was well received. In times of constant change and the resulting new business models, they ensured an intensive transfer of knowledge and provided important guidance. Guided tours on various key topics rounded off the trade fair experience.

The next drupa will be held in 2028.

Electronics For Imaging, Inc. reported that at drupa 2024, running through 7 June at Messe Düsseldorf, it is highlighting its expertise in single-pass printing solutions for packaging, display graphics, and textile markets.

Visitors to EFI’s stand will see some of the companies latest single-pass innovations live, including the Packsize® EFI™ X5® Nozomi, a full-colour, on-demand, right-sized box system that prints, cuts, creases, glues, and erects customised boxes at the rate of up to one box every 6 seconds, and the EFI Nozomi 14000 SD single pass printer for sign and display. The company is also showcasing a vast array of applications produced on the new Nozomi 14000 AQ true water-based, single pass printer for corrugated packaging and displays and the Nozomi 12000 MP single-pass technology for direct-to-metal package printing, as well as the next generation EFI Reggiani BOLT XS single-pass textile printer.

In addition to showcasing single-pass inkjet printing at the show, EFI is also introducing two new software solutions that add to the value of single-pass technology, including:

• EFInsight, cloud-based intelligence that optimises the operational efficiency and TCO of EFI packaging, display graphics, or textile digital inkjet printing systems with cloud-based data collection, analytics, reporting, proactive maintenance, and process control tools. It delivers the insights needed to understand the economics of production and the tools to maximise inkjet printer investments. It is currently available for EFI Nozomi single-pass printers for packaging.
• EFI’s Life Cycle Assessment tool for Nozomi printers, which documents Nozomi’s environmental footprint, developed in partnership with Clean Agency. This tool, which EFI customers and their customers can use, analyses their CO2 emissions as part of their overall packaging Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), and has proven that printing corrugated materials on the EFI Nozomi digital press reduces Global Warming Potential (GWP) by over 50% when compared to analogue printing technologies.

• Pitti Uomo and CHIC cooperate at the upcoming event in Florence from 11 to 14 June 2024 and present high fashion design from China under the roof of CHINA WAVE

From 11 to 14 June 2024, eight contemporary high class designer brands from China will present themselves for the first time at the leading menswear and lifestyle event Pitti Immagine Uomo at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, on 264 square metres under the umbrella of CHIC, China International Fashion Fair.

CHINA WAVE, born from the partnership between Pitti Uomo and China National Garment Association, is a collection of China's designer labels showcasing their design expertise in Florence.The line-up includes VALLEYOUTH, KB HONG BY K-BOXING, RAXXY, JDV, FENGGY, BLACKHEAD, KEYONE BY HATTERSHUB, TYPETAIL.

Around 500 exhibitors with international participation from Europe and Asia are expected at the next CHIC from 27 to 29 August in Shanghai. CHIC - China International Fashion Fair is organised by the China National Garment Association in cooperation with the China World Exhibition.