From the Sector

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from Sioen Technical Felts to supply a complete needlepunch line for its production plant in Liège, Belgium. The new line will enable Sioen to produce heavy fabrics in a single step.

Sioen’s Liège plant specializes in the production of technical fabrics used mainly in industrial applications such as pipe lining (CIPP), acoustics, and filtration. The ANDRITZ equipment will allow the customer to produce fabrics of more than 3,500 gsm in a single step, using different types of fibers (recycled PET, OxPan, bicomponent,…) and finenesses. Normally two or three layers have to be needled off-line in a second step to achieve such a fabric weight.

The single-step process results in a higher quality end product by minimizing the risk of delamination, i.e. the separation of layers during use. It also increases productivity by reducing the need for fabric handling.

The ANDRITZ DF-4 needleloom, which can operate in double and single stroke modus, gives Sioen high flexibility to process fabrics with different mechanical charasteristics. Operators can easily switch modes via the remote-control touch screen. The line will be equipped with ANDRITZ’s latest fabric weight profiling technology, ProWin™, to ensure maximum weight evenness.

Start-up of the new needlepunch line is scheduled for Q1 2025.

Dilo Temafa, a specialist in machinery and equipment for fibre preparation and natural fibre processing, announces the sale of a line extension to Eco-Technilin. The machines will complement an existing flax fibre preparation plant in France to enable higher fibre quality.

Eco-Technilin, a producer of sustainable materials, has chosen the machines to expand its production capacity and increase its efficiency. The plant expansion is specifically designed to efficiently clean flax scutcher tow and meet the high demands of modern manufacturing, while increasing process stability and plant availability.

Dilo Temafa has been active in the field of natural fibre extraction for more than thirty years and has supplied numerous systems for the processing of bast fibres, e.g. flax and industrial hemp. The fibres obtained are used in various industries, including the construction, automotive, nonwovens and textile industries, and make a contribution to minimising the ecological footprint.

As part of the European Erasmus+ project AddTex, the partner organisations organised several hackathons at the universities of Boras (Sweden), UPC (Spain), PIN (Italy) and TUS (Ireland) in May. The aim is to connect students with real challenges in the industry and promote innovation in the areas of ecology, sustainability, digitalisation and design. The participants had received basic information in advance through the 45 training videos and training sessions of the free and public Smart, Digital and Green Skills Academy at https://addtex.eu.

The hackathon at the Italian university PIN (Polo Universitario Città di Prato) was organised and held together with the technical textiles department of the Industrieverband Veredlung - Garne - Gewebe - Technische Textilien e.V. (IVGT). Eight teams competed to develop innovative, sustainable ideas in just a few hours for the German family business Schmitz Textiles GmbH & Co. KG, Emsdetten. Schmitz Textiles, an expert in complete textile solutions for indoor and outdoor use for over 100 years, plans to offer exclusively sustainable products in the medium term and is looking for solutions to continuously increase the existing recycled share of yarns to 100 per cent.

Stefan Schmidt from IVGT presented the challenge via Teams Conference: "We are looking for a new business model for textile recycling at awning manufacturer Schmitz-Textiles in order to increase the existing proportion of recycled yarns and go beyond the exclusive use of recycled PET bottles. Schmitz Textiles has had an awning fabric made from 100% recycled polyester in its range since the end of 2023. The medium-term goal is to switch the entire range of awning fabrics to 100% recycled yarns. The company is looking for suitable solutions to achieve this.

In small teams, the 30 students specialising in eco-design, textiles/sales and textiles/technology developed proposals and presented them in five-minute online pitches. Ralf Bosse for Schmitz Textiles and Iris Schlomski for the IVGT acted as the jury and assessed the individual presentations in the categories of degree of innovation, presentation, industrial application potential and potential for commercial success. Each idea presented and each presentation scored more or less points in the individual categories. In the end, the points scored were added up to determine the winning team, which can further develop its idea together with the company. For Schmitz Textiles, these are Eleonora Boccherini, Ilaria Ioja, Giorgio Gacci and Marianna Butera.

Portuguese textile entrepreneur, Mario Jorge Machado, has been elected President of EURATEX during its General Assembly on 14 June. The Assembly also nominated Alberto Paccanelli as Honorary President.

Mario Jorge Machado has an extensive career in textiles. Mario is currently a shareholder and director of "Adalberto Textile Solutions, S.A.", where he applies advanced management practices to boost competitiveness and innovation. He has been president of the Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal (ATP) since 2019, and he stands out for his strategic leadership in the textile and clothing sector, promoting innovation and sustainability. He represents ATP on the Board of CIP - Confederação Empresarial de Portugal and chairs CIP's strategic council for the environment and sustainability.

With a degree in Production Polymer Engineering from the University of Minho, his expertise ranges from continuous process improvement to the development of B2B commercial teams and B2C business models. His vision encompasses operational excellence and the implementation of sustainable practices, contributing to the evolution of the textile industry.

The Assembly also nominated Alberto Paccanelli as Honorary President, recognising over a decade of commitment to EURATEX and the European textile industry.

EURATEX General Assembly also elected 4 other members of the Presidency Team: Michael Kamm (ZWILLING Gruppe, Germany), Barbara Cimmino (Yamamay, Italy), Grégory Marchant (UTT, France) and Ismail Kolunsag (Cross Tekstil, Turkey). During the Assembly, EURATEX also welcomed new memberships from CEMATEX and Forschungskuratorium Textil e. V., and a partnership with Reju. (France).

Unter der Überschrift „Starke Partner für starke Lösungen“ haben sich der Gesamtverband der deutschen Textil- und Modeindustrie e. V., das Forschungskuratorium Textil e. V., die Stiftung GRS-Batterien und die Gemeinsame Rücknahmesystem Servicegesellschaft mbH zu einem Konsortium für ein gemeinsames Pilotprojekt zusammengetan. Ziel ist es, die Erfahrungen aus dem Rückgabesystem für Batterien zu nutzen, um ein auf mittelständische Textil- und Modehersteller zugeschnittenes gemeinnütziges Rücknahmesystem zu entwickeln.

Uwe Mazura, Hauptgeschäftsführer des Gesamtverbandes der deutschen Textil- und
Modeindustrie: „Mit dem neuen Konsortium schmieden wir eine starke Allianz und wollen als zentrale Player die Anforderungen des Gesetzgebers maßgeblich mitgestalten. Wir wollen Lösungen entwickeln, die ganz neue Standards in Sachen Nachhaltigkeit und Kreislaufwirtschaft in der Textil- und Modeindustrie setzen.“

Die aktuelle politische Diskussion um die sogenannte „Erweiterte Herstellerverantwortung“ wird von den Partnern des Pilotprojekts als Chance für eine proaktive Mitgestaltung gesehen, wie Dr.-Ing. Julia Hobohm, Geschäftsführerin der Gemeinsames Rücknahmesystem Servicegesellschaft mbH betont: „Tatsächliche Herstellerverantwortung erfordert den Aufbau einer funktionierenden und schlagkräftigen Producer Responsibility Organisation und sollte dringend auch von den Herstellern mitgestaltet werden. Wir freuen uns auf das gemeinsame Projekt und die Zusammenarbeit.“

Die deutsche Textil- und Modeindustrie mit ihren rund 1 400 Unternehmen und über 120 000 Beschäftigten sowie mit ihrer leistungsfähigen Textilforschung an 16 Instituten bringt ihr Know-how in das Pilotprojekt ein. Ziel ist es, Textilien an ihrem Lebensende nicht einfach als Abfall, sondern als Rohstoff zu sehen. Um dies zu erreichen, müssen viele technische Herausforderungen gelöst werden. So kommen neben hochwertigen und recycelbaren Textilien auch immer mehr minderwertige Ultra-Fast-Fashion-Textilien globaler Billigmarken in den Abfallkreislauf. Im Pilotprojekt sollen sogenannte Producer Responsibility Organisations (PROs) dafür sorgen, dass Sammel- und Recyclingziele sowie hochwertige Wiederverwendungs- und Verwertungsverfahren erreicht werden. Das Projekt setzt sich aus Experten der beteiligten Verbände, der Wissenschaft und der PROs zusammen und soll durch weitere Verbände, Politik und Behörden begleitet werden.

Stratasys Ltd. is announcing updates to several Industrial and Healthcare Business Unit products and Stratasys Direct. These include a new open platform for the F900™ 3D printer, more on-demand 3D printing capabilities and a new high-performance material for its Fused Deposition Modeling line.

OpenAM comes to the F900
Stratasys OpenAM™ is a software application that enables the user to modify machine controls to achieve results beyond standard print settings. Already available for the Fortus 450®mc printer, Stratasys is now making its OpenAM software available for the F900 printer. This will allow for expanded functionality and capabilities and will unlock new materials for F900 users.

New VICTREX AM 200 material for FDM
A new material offering that opens the application potential for demanding industries like aerospace and medical, where material properties are critical components of a 3D-printed solutions. This new high-performance, high-strength, validated material, VICTREX AM™ 200, will be available for the Fortus 450mc and the F900. VICTREX AM 200 is a PEEK-based polymer that is temperature, corrosion, and chemical resistant, with excellent mechanical properties which can be utilized with soluble and breakaway support material.

Carbon Fiber Visual Print Option for the F-Series
Carbon Fiber Visual Print Option is a new 5-slice (0.005”) layer height across the F-123 Series™ line of printers that is coming later this month for FDM®ABS-CF10. It produces a smoother surface finish, to provide the perfect finish when a part’s visual appearance is important to the application. It is built for applications that demand the durability of a carbon-filled polymer, but also requires a visually appealing result without additional post-processing.

F770 adds New Colors
The F770® printer can now print in multiple colors, in addition to its original single ivory color. Six new ASA colors, including red, white, light gray, black, blue, and yellow, will allow for more application versatility with FDM® ASA and ABS-M30 tried-and-true engineering plastics. The new colors enable printing without painting or other post-production marking, allowing parts to be available much faster, increasing productivity.

Somos NeXt Validated for SLA
Somos® NeXt™ is now a validated material for Stratasys NEO® stereolithography 3D printers. Somos NeXt is a resin with superior strength and can be used in automotive and consumer products, along with other applications, including prototyping, to produce durable, accurate and detailed parts.

New GrabCAD Software Print Integration Enhances On-Demand 3D Printing Capabilities
Stratasys has introduced Parts on Demand by GrabCAD, a new integration that synchronizes the company's software platform with Stratasys Direct. This addition allows GrabCAD Print™ customers to access Stratasys Direct’s fleet of 3D printers, allowing for larger and more intricate designs, a selection of more than 50 engineered materials, and the assurance of stringent quality inspections.

STOLL, ein Hersteller von Flachstrickmaschinen und Geschäftsbereich der KARL MAYER GROUP, lanciert seine neueste Kollektion NOCTURNO.

Die originelle Kollektion wurde von der Abteilung Fashion & Technology in Reutlingen entworfen. Die Designer ließen sich von den Facetten des nächtlichen Lebens inspirieren und schufen Fashion-Items, bei denen unter anderem Lingerie und elegante Styles miteinander verschmelzen.

Neben außergewöhnlichen Looks zeigt NOCTURNO das Engagement von STOLL für Innovation und Exzellenz im Flachstricken. Mit dem Ziel, die Grenzen der Stricktechnologie zu erweitern, stellt die Kollektion eine Reihe von technischen Neuerungen vor:

• Vielseitigkeit in der Feinheit: Von der gröbsten Maschinenfeinheit E1,5.2 bis E3,5.2 über die Allrounder E7.2 und E9.2 bis zur feinsten Feinheit E20 demonstriert NOCTURNO die Vielseitigkeit der Flachstrickmaschinen von STOLL.
• Innovative Stricktechniken: NOCTURNO zeigt, wie sich durch den Einsatz neuester Stricktechniken wie FlexPly neue Dimensionen in Textur und Struktur eröffnen und Grenzen im Strickdesign erweitern lassen. Spitzenähnliche Optiken können ebenso erzeugt werden wie neuartiges Drapier- und Materialverhalten.
• Neudefinition von Bekleidungsformen: NOCTURNO steht daneben für die Möglichkeiten der STOLL-knit and wear® Technologie in puncto Nachhaltigkeit und Vielseitigkeit durch nahtloses Stricken und präsentiert eine Reihe von nahtlosen Produkten, die den Schnitt traditioneller Strickbekleidung neu definieren und eine neue Perspektive auf die Bekleidungsherstellung bieten.
• Modische und funktionelle Ideen für Stoll-knitrobotic® Automation: NOCTURNO stellt Ideen für Stoll-knitrobotic® vor und präsentiert Kleidungsstücke, die mit integrierten farbigen Spiegeln als modische und auffällige Details veredelt wurden. Zudem führen eingestrickte Magnete zu neuartigen Verschlusslösungen, die vielseitige Tragemöglichkeiten bieten.
• KI im kreativen Prozess: Die Entwicklungen im Bereich der künstlichen Intelligenz hatten mittlerweile auch die Modeindustrie erfasst. Die Chancen, die sich aus dieser Technik für Stoll-Kunden ergeben, hat das STOLL-Designteam herausgearbeitet, indem es die aktuellen Tools wie Midjourney und Adobe Firefly einsetzt. Vor allem die Entwicklungszeiten können durch die schnellere Erstellung von Strickgrafiken und die Visualisierung von Produktideen verkürzt werden. Für den fantasievollen Ansatz der Kollektion steht stellvertretend ein Gedicht, das interaktiv mit ChatGPT erstellt wurde. Das generative Textergebnis findet sich in einem Haarband wieder.

The Zebun Nessa Mosque, recently completed in Ashulia, Dhaka, is a shining example of the progressive initiatives being undertaken by the Bangladeshi garment industry. Fashion Forum Ltd., a company of IDS Group, spearheaded this project, demonstrating a strong commitment to enhancing the welfare and environment for its workers.

Bangladesh, renowned as the second-largest exporter of ready-made garments globally, is setting new benchmarks in workplace safety, worker welfare, and environmental sustainability. Mr. Idris Shakur, managing director of IDS Group, epitomizes the industry’s progressive outlook. He has dedicated the mosque to the workers of Fashion Forum Limited, naming it in honour of his late mother. The gesture is designed to foster compassion and unity within the industrial community.

The mosque, designed by Studio Morphogenesis and completed in 2023, reflects a forward-thinking architectural philosophy. Sustainability was a core consideration, with the design incorporating recycled red bricks from demolished houses for the exterior walls. Pink concrete, weatherproofed with lime plaster mixed with red brick powder, blends tradition with modernity, creating a spiritual and communal haven for the workers.

A key feature of the mosque is its majestic arched opening facing the qibla, offering worshippers a serene view of the adjacent waterbody and enhancing their connection with nature. The structure's double-layered walls provide thermal comfort and facilitate natural light and ventilation, transforming the mosque into a "breathing pavilion." Enclosed gardens, reminiscent of light courts, provide a peaceful retreat from the bustling industrial environment.

Inside, an intricate perforated metal stairway leads to a crescent-shaped upper floor, dedicated exclusively to the female workers. This space serves as a serene meeting area and prayer room, empowering women and reinforcing their importance within the workforce.

The Zebun Nessa Mosque also showcases advanced construction technology, designed to withstand extreme weather conditions, further underscoring the innovative and resilient spirit of Bangladeshi garment manufacturers.

This mosque stands as a testament to the progressive and compassionate ethos driving Bangladesh’s garment industry. It highlights how manufacturers are not only focusing on economic growth but also prioritising the well-being and empowerment of workers, setting new standards for the industry worldwide.

Manufacturer of activewear and swimwear, Active Apparel Group (AAG), has committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and USA.

Through a third-party audit of its greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs), AAG has identified the following areas of focus to reduce impacts:

• Reduction in Scope 1 energy use
• Reduction in air freight
• Reduction in water usage across the business
• Ongoing collection and management of production waste
• Increased use of sustainable materials
• Continued collection of GHG data for ongoing improvement

AAG’s EMS is designed to be embedded within the operations of the business, with functional ownership of targets established and education of the team prioritized, to deliver results on reducing environmental impact. Quarterly reporting of its progress is communicated to stakeholders and reviewed by the company’s Board of Directors.

The EMS is part of AAG’s ongoing Responsible Business Strategy - a company-wide commitment to driving continuous improvement across the areas of Governance, Social and Environmental impact. Other initiatives include Living Wage Audit by Bureau Veritas (AAG pays 100% Living Wage); Materiality Assessment; Supply Chain Traceability Project; Circularity and Waste Management along with annual third-party audits - SMETA, Gold WRAP, Supplier Qualification Program and its Modern Slavery Statement.

Fashion for Good launches the Sorting for Circularity USA report unveiling significant findings from the project. A first of its kind in the US, the report delves into consumer disposal behaviour, textile waste composition, and the potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling within the country. It provides insights for making informed decisions for further investments, infrastructure development and the next steps towards circularity.

The U.S. Textile Waste Landscape
The United States is a global leader in textile consumption and waste generation, positioning itself as one of the largest sources of secondary raw materials for post-consumer textile feedstock. Despite this, only 15% of the textile waste generated in the US is currently recovered, with 85% ending up in landfills or incinerators.

With the impending policies in the European Union and certain American states, alongside commitments from both public and private sectors to promote fibre-to-fibre recycling, there is a growing demand for infrastructure related to post-consumer textile collection, sorting, and recycling.

Addressing Data GPS
In the pursuit of establishing a functional reverse supply chain and the necessary infrastructure, two critical areas lack data  – consumer disposal behaviour, and material characteristics of post-consumer textiles. The Sorting for Circularity USA project addressed these gaps through a comprehensive national consumer survey and waste composition analysis.

The survey revealed that 60% of respondents divert textiles, while 4% discard them, driven primarily by factors such as condition and fit. On the other hand, the waste composition analysis unveiled that over 56% of post-consumer textiles are suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling, with cotton and polyester being the most prevalent fibre types, indicating a substantial potential for these textiles to be used as feedstock for mechanical and chemical recycling processes.

The project revealed a $1.5 billion opportunity for fibre-to-fibre recycling by redirecting non-rewearable textiles from landfills and incinerators to recycling streams. The report outlines growth strategies for the US textile recycling industry, emphasising enhanced financial value through efficiency improvements, increased commodity valuation, and policy mechanisms like extended producer responsibility schemes. Collaboration among stakeholders is crucial, including brands, government, retailers, consumers, collectors, sorters, recyclers, and financial institutions, to promote circularity, invest in research and development, and advocate for supportive policies and incentives to drive technological innovation. This redirection of textiles towards recycling underscores the substantial economic potential of embracing circularity in the textile industry.
 
There is an opportunity to build on these insights and assess the feasibility of different sorting business models and (semi) automated sorting technologies to create a demo facility suitable for closed-loop textile recycling. Ultimately, evaluating the commercial and technical feasibility of a semi-automated sorting process and identifying investment opportunities to scale solutions nationwide.