From the Sector

CARBIOS celebrated the groundbreaking ceremony for its PET biorecycling plant in the presence of representatives of local authorities, partner brands and industrial partners who all make up CARBIOS’ ecosystem. Located in Longlaville, in the Grand-Est region of France, CARBIOS' first commercial plant will play a key role in the fight against plastic pollution, offering an industrial-scale solution for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET waste in order to accelerate a circular economy for plastic and textiles. The plant will have a processing capacity of 50kt/year of prepared waste when operating at full capacity. Work is progressing on schedule with significant quantities delivered to customers in 2026.

CARBIOS' technology enables PET circularity and provides an alternative raw material to fossil-based monomers, giving PET producers, waste management companies, public bodies and brands an effective solution to meet regulatory requirements and their own commitments to sustainable development. The plant will have the capacity to process 50,000 tons of prepared PET waste per year (equivalent to 2 billion colored bottles, 2.5 billion food trays or 300 million T-shirts). The plant will create 150 direct and indirect jobs in the region. In October 2023, CARBIOS obtained the building and operating permits for the site. The factory is currently under construction on land officially acquired from Indorama Ventures on 14 February 2024. In February 2024, CARBIOS and De Smet Engineers & Contractors (DSEC) announced their collaboration to manage construction. Several feedstock supply agreements, notably with CITEO and Landbell Group, will secure the vast majority of the raw materials required.  Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant's location is strategic for access to nearby waste supplies

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

Archroma and Cotton Incorporated, a research and promotion company for cotton, have renewed their eight-year collaboration to help accelerate the shift to more sustainable circular economy.

The two organizations began working together in 2016 when Cotton Incorporated approached Archroma with the goal of developing a dyestuff from the byproducts of cotton production.

The U.S., the world’s third-largest cotton producer and largest exporter, produces sustainable cotton fiber for the textile and apparel industry as well as cottonseed for food and animal feed. Cotton farming and processing also generate byproducts, such as burs, stems and leaves, that are used to create insulation, packaging, erosion control products, and more. Cotton Incorporated recognized the potential to use these natural byproducts to produce dyes.

Drawing on a century-long heritage of sulfur dye innovation, the Archroma research team was able to apply its patented EarthColors® technology to create DIRESUL® Earth-Cotton using cotton by products from the U.S. supply chain. An alternative to the usual oil-based dyes, Earth-Cotton allows brands to offer textile products in warm natural shades, using cotton to create both fabric and dye.

Stahl has published its 2023 Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) Report. The report outlines Stahl's recent progress on its ESG Roadmap to 2030 and the steps the company is taking to live its purpose of Touching lives, for a better world.

Stahl’s ESG Roadmap to 2030 includes interim targets for 2023, making this a year in which Stahl reached several important milestones. For example, the company reduced its scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 22% versus 2022. Furthermore, in 2023 the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) validated Stahl's scope 1, 2 and 3 targets, making it one of the first coatings companies on the SBTi-approved list.

To reduce its GHG emissions, Stahl is actively increasing its use of clean energy. At the end of 2023, renewable energy generation, such as solar panels, had been installed at four Stahl sites, compared to its target of three.

Measuring – and reducing – the impact of products is an important step in the company’s scope 3 emissions. As such, 353 Stahl products now have either life cycle assessment (LCA) or product carbon footprint (PCF) data, far exceeding the 2023 target of 50.
 
New ratings and certifications
In 2023, 2,161 of Stahl's products were certified by Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), in line with ZDHC MRSL V3.1. These products represented 70% of the company’s sales revenue, demonstrating increased demand for coatings with a lower risk to health and the environment.

Stahl was also proud to achieve a Platinum rating from EcoVadis for the second year in a row, which places it in the top 1% of companies evaluated. Stahl also exceeded its 2023 target of an average EcoVadis rating of at least 60/100 for their top ten suppliers, with an average rating of 68/100 reported in December 2023.
Fostering a safe and welcoming work environment

A core pillar of Stahl’s ESG approach is how it supports its employees’ physical and mental well-being. The 2023 ESG Report outlines several examples of this commitment, such as improvement in its key safety KPIs for the third year in a row.

Besides keeping people safe, Stahl continues to make progress in fostering an open and inclusive workplace. For example, in support of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI), Stahl appointed its first female leadership team member, trained 98% of its staff in DEI and established DEI committees at all Stahl sites. In addition, to strengthen communication, engagement and collaboration across the workforce, Stahl also established an internal workplace hub, MyStahl.

Victoria Beckham's new collection for Mango, which coincides with the brand’s 40th anniversary, will go on sale internationally on April 23th, 2024.
The collaboration is part of Mango’s new 2024-26 Strategic Plan Elevate lever, which aims to reinforce the company’s differential value proposition based on aspirationalism, quality and its unique style.

Mango is teaming up with Victoria Beckham to launch a new capsule collection, which will be available internationally on April 23, 2024. Victoria Beckham x Mango has been designed by Victoria Beckham and reflects the essence of the designer's eponymous label, considered the perfect blend of classic British luxury with a subtle contemporary twist, as well as the shared values of both fashion brands, such as quality and femininity.

The new collection, which coincides with Mango's 40th anniversary, is the latest in a series of collaborations with other brands, artists and talents including SIMONMILLER, Camille Charrière, and Pernille Teisbaek. It follows the latest edition in Mango’s Capsule collection, a collection of eventwear for woman differentiated by the quality of its materials and finishes, which was released in March 2024 after being launched in 2023.

Mango’s collaboration with Victoria Beckham is part of the new Strategic Plan 2024-26, which aims to generate total turnover of more than 4 billion euros by 2026 through a differentiated value proposition, strong expansion drive, and improving sales in existing stores and online channels, as presented by the company last March.

The collaboration supports Elevate, one of the core pillars of the Plan. Elevate focuses on promoting a differential value proposition in all lines through aspirationalism, quality and a unique style designed in Barcelona, with excellent customer service. Since its inception, Mango has a very clear DNA and its own design and style proposal, whose main attribute is a positioning of superior quality to its competitors.

The DITF is leading the joint project "DACCUS-Pre*". The basic idea of the project is to develop a new building material that stores carbon in the long term and removes more CO₂ from the atmosphere than is emitted during its production.       

In collaboration with the company TechnoCarbon Technologies, the project is now well advanced - a first demonstrator in the form of a house wall element has been realized. It consists of three materials: Natural stone, carbon fibers and biochar. Each component contributes in a different way to the negative CO₂ balance of the material:

Two slabs of natural stone form the exposed walls of the wall element. The mechanical processing of the material, i.e. sawing in stone cutting machines, produces significant quantities of stone dust. This is very reactive due to its large specific surface area. Silicate weathering of the rock dust permanently binds a large amount of CO₂ from the atmosphere.

Carbon fibers in the form of technical fabrics reinforce the side walls of the wall elements. They absorb tensile forces and are intended to stabilize the building material in the same way as reinforcing steel in concrete. The carbon fibers used are bio-based, produced from biomass. Lignin-based carbon fibers, which have long been technically optimized at DITF Denkendorf, are particularly suitable for this application: They are inexpensive due to low raw material costs and have a high carbon yield. In addition, unlike reinforcing steel, they are not susceptible to oxidation and therefore last much longer. Although carbon fibers are more energy-intensive to produce than steel, as used in reinforced concrete, only a small amount is needed for use in building materials. As a result, the energy and CO₂ balance is much better than for reinforced concrete. By using solar heat and biomass to produce the carbon fibers and the weathering of the stone dust, the CO₂ balance of the new building material is actually negative, making it possible to construct CO₂-negative buildings.

The third component of the new building material is biochar. This is used as a filler between the two rock slabs. The char acts as an effective insulating material. It is also a permanent source of CO₂ storage, which plays a significant role in the CO₂ balance of the entire wall element.

From a technical point of view, the already realized demonstrator, a wall element for structural engineering, is well developed. The natural stone used is a gabbro from India, which has a high-quality appearance and is suitable for high loads. This has been proven in load tests.  Bio-based carbon fibers serve as the top layer of the stone slabs. The biochar from Convoris GmbH is characterized by particularly good thermal insulation values.

The CO₂ balance of a house wall made of the new material has been calculated and compared with that of conventional reinforced concrete. This results in a difference in the CO₂ balance of 157 CO₂ equivalents per square meter of house wall. A significant saving!

* (Methods for removing atmospheric carbon dioxide (Carbon Dioxide Removal) by Direct Air Carbon Capture, Utilization and Sustainable Storage after Use (DACCUS).

In a move to enhance the global competitiveness of the Turkish apparel industry, the Istanbul Apparel Exporters' Association (IHKIB) has entered into a collaborative agreement with the Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP).

IHKIB, representing 80% of Türkiye's apparel exports, aims to facilitate and guide its members in navigating new markets and staying abreast of sectoral developments.
WRAP, a US-based non-profit organization, focuses on promoting safe, lawful, humane, and ethical working conditions within the textile and apparel industry.

Mr. Selcuk Mehmet Kaya, Chairman of the International Relations and Sustainability Committee of IHKIB, and Mr. Avedis Seferian, President and CEO of WRAP, officially inked a collaboration agreement on March 8, 2024, marking a significant step towards fostering business relations between Türkiye and the USA. The agreement focuses on a pilot project developed by IHKIB and WRAP, aiming to identify leading Turkish apparel companies exporting to the USA and encouraging these facilities to attain WRAP certification. In return, WRAP will provide in-person and virtual training at no charge to guide these facilities through the certification process. The project seeks to strengthen business ties between Türkiye and the USA, creating additional opportunities for mutual cooperation between the parties in both countries.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has collaborated with PDS Ventures to launch a new Trailblazer Programme. The new initiative seeks to identify early-stage innovators and support them on their journey to scale.

As part of the Trailblazer Programme, PDS Ventures will award one innovator a significant investment of up to USD 200,000* to accelerate the company’s growth and positive impact in the fashion industry. The winner will also receive commercial and operational support from PDS Group’s Positive Materials - a textile company and strategic research partner supporting the development and acceleration of low impact textile innovation through collaboration between early-stage start-ups, supply chain partners and brands. Further scaling opportunities will be gained through access to PDS Limited’s extensive global supply chain.
 
GFA and PDS Ventures are presenting an open call for solution providers addressing different challenges across the fashion value chain to apply for the programme. Applicants will be reviewed and shortlisted by an esteemed Jury including representatives from GFA, PDS Ventures, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Ralph Lauren Corporation, Fashion For Good and H&M Group. Eight shortlisted innovations will be enrolled in a group of Trailblazers, receiving feedback and investment pitch training from industry experts and PDS representatives.     
 
Each shortlisted innovator will then pitch for a potential investment, with the winning Trailblazer being revealed at GFA’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024 - an international forum for sustainability in fashion, on 22-23 May at the Copenhagen Concert Hall. All shortlisted Trailblazers will also have the opportunity to showcase their businesses within an exhibit at the Summit to connect with other key industry stakeholders and potential investors.
 
The Trailblazer Programme corresponds with the theme of the upcoming Global Fashion Summit - ‘Unlocking The Next Level’. Inspired by a significant milestone, 2024 marks 15 years since the inaugural Global Fashion Summit was hosted in 2009. This pivotal anniversary offers a special moment to not only take stock of the evolution of the sector and the progress made so far, but, most importantly, look ahead at what actions must urgently be implemented in the near term, and the gaps that must be filled to accelerate industry transformation.

Eastman announces a partnership with Patagonia to address textile waste.

The outdoor apparel company teamed up with Eastman to recycle 8,000 pounds of pre- and post-consumer clothing waste, which Eastman processed through its molecular recycling technology. The process involves breaking down Patagonia’s unusable apparel into molecular building blocks that Eastman can use to make new fibers.

"We know apparel waste is a major problem, and consumers increasingly want better, more sustainable solutions when their most loved clothing reaches the end of its life," said Natalie Banakis, materials innovation engineer for Patagonia.

"Our collaborations show the world what’s possible when it comes to sustainability,” said Carolina Sister Cohn, global marketing lead for Eastman textiles. “We have the technology to make the textiles industry circular, and we know it requires collaboration with innovative brands to make circular fashion possible. This is only the beginning, and we look forward to more collaborations throughout 2024."

Under adidas’ ambition to help athletes overcome high pressure moments in sport, it has teamed up with leading sport neuroscientists, neuro11, to understand the impact it has within a game of football, basketball, and golf during penalty shootouts, high-stake putts and must-make free-throws.

Working with Emiliano Martínez, Ludvig Åberg, Nneka Ogwumike, Rose Zhang, and Stina Blackstenius, as well as amateurs in the game, adidas and neuro11 delved into their minds to identify and analyse where pressure peaks, to help athletes across the globe to better understand it.

Understanding from this study that grassroots athletes and their elite counterparts experience similarly intense levels of pressure in the biggest sporting moments - but elite athletes were up to 40% more effective at managing pressure during these moments¹ - a toolbox of techniques has been developed, built from the specific findings, to assist next-gen athletes in managing and overcoming the feeling within their game.

Covering in-depth detail on what pressure looks like within each sport, how it has been proven to impact specific in-game moments, the brain zones that neuro11’s state-of-the-art brain technology measures and the main insights from each athlete’s training session, each report sets out to support all athletes in accessing the optimal zone - the brain state in which they perform at their best.

Rounded off with science-backed tips that reveal the optimal area of a goal to strike a penalty, how to use time to regain focus before netting a free throw, as well as the impact of dwell time on putting in golf – the guides are shaped around enhancing mental focus during some of the most pressured moments across sport.

1 Findings captured during athlete training sessions, as part of adidas SS24 Brand Campaign, in collaboration with neuro11 (November ’23- January ’24). Study carried out with Emiliano Martínez, Ludvig Åberg, Nneka Ogwumike, Rose Zhang, and Stina Blackstenius, in addition to 5 grassroot athletes.