From the Sector

Oritain announced the expansion of its services into leather. This development will enable the fashion, luxury fashion and automotive industries to meet the rising demand for traceability, sustainability, and regulatory compliance.

Oritain’s proprietary methodology already trusted across apparel, food and agriculture, can now verify the geographic origin of leather from key producing countries across Europe, Africa and South America.1 This capability is increasingly vital as regulations like the EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) are enforced and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) mandates a Digital Product Passport. Such regulations require companies to disclose traceability information that proves their supply chains are transparent and ethically sourced.

The global leather goods market is projected to grow from $493 billion in 2025 to $904 billion in 2035, according to Future Market Insights (FMI, 2025). Meanwhile, the luxury leather goods segment alone is expected to generate over $66 billion in revenue in 2025, as reported by Statista (2025). These growth figures underscore the growing pressure on brands to demonstrate responsible sourcing.

“Leather sourcing is facing heightened scrutiny for its environmental and human rights impacts” said Alyn Franklin, CEO of Oritain. “Our origin verification programs give brands and tanneries the insights they need to make meaningful changes in their supply chain, meet regulatory obligations and build lasting trust with their customers.”

Traceability is no longer a nice-to-have; it’s a strategic imperative. Regulatory frameworks are tightening, and consumer expectations are shifting towards transparency, sustainability, and ethical practices. Brands that fail to meet these standards risk reputational damage, legal consequences, and loss of consumer trust.

Oritain’s extensive origin database and forensic expertise provide a unique solution for brands navigating increasingly complex supply chains. The service is designed to verify sourcing claims made by intermediaries and tanneries, enabling brands to identify deforestation and labour risks, supporting end-to-end supply chain mapping. Whether it’s bespoke handbags, premium footwear, or high-end automotive interiors, Oritain’s product origin verification is tailored to meet the unique needs of the fashion and automotive sectors, offering both precision and adaptability.

This launch follows Oritain’s recent expansion into the timber industry, another commodity highly relevant to concerns surrounding deforestation and subject to scrutiny by regulators. This broader business expansion into new sectors reflects Oritain’s commitment to innovation, and its role in helping clients set new standards for transparency and accountability.

“Our customers are looking for ways to get visibility into their supply chains. Extending our service to leather means we can stand alongside them and have a positive impact on the wider industry, delivering on our vision of being the source of truth in global supply chains” said Paul Bentham, Chief Product and Technology Officer at Oritain.
 
1 Argentina, Nigeria, Spain, Belgium, Italy, Turkey, Albania, France, Netherlands, UK, Germany.

On the occasion of New York Climate Week, Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has launched the Fashion CEO Agenda 2025, a strategic resource for leaders of fashion brands and retailers, designed to guide immediate action to future-proof businesses while advancing towards a net-positive fashion industry by 2050.

Published at a pivotal mid-decade reflection point - with less than five years remaining to meet the UN Sustainable Development Goals and scientists warning of only three years left to alter the trajectory of global warming - the report comes as the industry faces turbulence, from economic volatility and deregulation to escalating climate and social crises.

The updated agenda urges executives to take action according to its long-standing five-priority sustainability framework - Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems. For the first time, the 2025 edition introduces Priority Accelerators: Innovation, Capital, Courage, Incentives, and Regulation. These build on the themes discussed at Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition this year, positioned as critical levers that cut across all five priorities, enabling systemic change at speed and scale.

The Fashion CEO Agenda 2025 is structured in two clear parts: Part one presents overarching ambitions for the fashion sector that demand collective action across stakeholders, while part two outlines the immediate, short-term, practical steps brands and retailers can take today to advance those ambitions.

The 2025 edition builds upon the ambitions first presented in the 2023 Fashion CEO Agenda which were developed through years of stakeholder engagement and validated by GFA and the UN Environment Programme’s global Fashion Industry Target Consultation. Two years on, these ambitions remain central to industry-wide progress. For 2025, they’ve been re-evaluated in consultation with leading multi-stakeholder initiatives and experts to ensure continued ambition, impact, and relevance. The scope now expands to further urgent priorities such as fair and ethical treatment of migrant workers and empowering workers through inclusive automation and reskilling, with a firm focus on the need for transformation that benefits both the planet and its communities.

To support implementation, GFA has also released new complementary materials including a practical toolkit guiding companies to credible existing industry tools, guidelines, and programmes, as well as a presentation deck that fashion leaders can adapt internally to educate teams. These resources are designed to help leaders embed the Fashion CEO Agenda into company strategies and communicate it effectively throughout their organisations.

Federica Marchionni, CEO of Global Fashion Agenda, said: “Climate change is the defining certainty in an uncertain global world, impacting all lives and communities. The investments needed to future-proof businesses will keep increasing and the cost of inaction will inevitably become greater than the investments needed to address it. This year’s Fashion CEO Agenda provides leaders with a clear path to embed sustainability at the heart of corporate strategy, supported by enabling conditions that make bold action both possible and necessary.”

The ELUCENT project has successfully moved bio-based pigments from laboratory research to industrial readiness, delivering the world’s first plastic-free, toxin-free and fully biodegradable reflective pigment. Funded by Innovate UK, the 18-month collaboration brought together three partners: Sparxell, the University of Cambridge spin-out pioneering plant-based bioinspired colour technology; PANGAIA, the global materials science company applying next-generation innovations to fashion; and the Manufacturing Technology Centre (MTC), one of the UK’s leading independent research and technology organisations.

Together, they have demonstrated how science, design and engineering can deliver scalable, sustainable alternatives to conventional pigment systems. By combining Sparxell’s pioneering cellulose-based colour platform, PANGAIA’s expertise in design application, and the MTC’s ability to scale processes for industry, the project shows how interdisciplinary collaboration can reduce environmental impact without compromising creativity or performance. Sparxell, founded in 2023 out of the Cambridge laboratories by Dr Benjamin Droguet and Professor Silvia Vignolini, led the technology development. Their patented process uses cellulose, the world’s most abundant biopolymer, to create vibrant colour particles inspired by nature. Unlike conventional pigments, these are free from plastics and toxins and are fully biodegradable.

As design partner, PANGAIA tested the pigments on textiles in collaboration with London-based Orto Print Studio, producing printed fabric prototypes and testing durability. This step bridges lab innovation with real-world applications of these bio-based colourants in fashion and beyond. 

This work is part of PANGAIA’s commitment to supporting next-generation material innovators by bringing to market solutions-driven breakthroughs in material science that transform the environmental impact of fashion and design through purposeful collaborations, merging cutting-edge science with scalable applications.

The Manufacturing Technology Centre (MTC) ensured the pigments could be scaled beyond the lab, building custom production systems and validating performance at an industrial level. 

The completion of this Innovate UK project ELUCENT marks a step change for sustainable colour. Together, Sparxell, PANGAIA, and the MTC have shown how fashion and technology can join forces to deliver circular, biodegradable alternatives to today’s synthetic pigments. 

Sparxell has successfully transitioned from university research to a technically validated platform, demonstrating significant improvements in pigment formulation, liquid dispersion, and film casting performance. A commercial launch is projected for 2026.

The third expansion of ECHA’s new chemicals database, ECHA CHEM, incorporates overviews of different regulatory activities by authorities and the resulting outcomes.

ECHA maintains the largest chemicals database in the European Union (EU), combining industry-submitted data with information generated in the EU’s regulatory processes. 

The regulatory data includes information from various pieces of legislation under ECHA’s remit. Visibility of authorities’ regulatory activities on specific chemicals and resulting actions help stakeholders to effectively participate in the decision-making process via consultations, and comply with the laws concerning the chemicals they use.

Peter van der Zandt, Director of Risk Management, said:
“Transparency and predictability of the EU’s regulatory activities are a cornerstone of well-functioning chemicals regulation. We have now made this regulatory information available in a consistent manner and in a more user-friendly format, allowing all impacted and interested parties to follow the authorities’ ongoing work.”

In this release, ECHA CHEM incorporates regulatory processes and lists from four chemicals regulations and directives:

REACH Regulation

• The list of substances restricted under REACH and the restriction process;
• The Authorisation List and ECHA’s recommendations for including substances in the Authorisation List;
• Substances of very high concern (SVHC) and the Candidate List;
• Dossier and substance evaluation;

Drinking Water Directive (DWD)

• European positive lists (EUPL);

Classification, Labelling and Packaging Regulation (CLP)

• Annex VI - the list of substances with EU harmonised classification and labelling (CLH) and the CLH process;

Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs) Regulation:

• The lists of substances subject to POPs Regulation and substances proposed as POPs.

These lists will, except for the new DWD European positive lists, also continue to be available under the Search for chemicals section on ECHA’s website. However, as ECHA CHEM continues to expand with more data sets, the old Search for chemicals pages will be gradually decommissioned. 

The European Chemicals Agency plans to launch a consultation on the draft opinion of its Committee for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) on the proposed EU-wide restriction of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) following the Committee’s meeting in March 2026.

The SEAC draft opinion on the PFAS restriction proposal will cover the evaluation of the socio-economic aspects, including the availability of alternative substances and technologies. SEAC intends to agree its draft opinion at its meeting, which is provisionally scheduled for the first half of March 2026. The consultation will begin shortly after this meeting and remain open for 60 days, during which stakeholders can provide feedback.

Survey structure
The consultation will use a structured survey format, inviting participants to respond to questions on the potential impacts of restricting the use of PFAS across various sectors. Participants will also be asked to provide specific information about the availability and feasibility of alternatives to these widely used chemicals. Any information marked as confidential will be treated appropriately. Information on the risks associated with PFAS will not be considered, as these are evaluated in a separate opinion by the Committee for Risk Assessment (RAC).

All feedback will be entered directly into the question fields for each survey topic to streamline the processing of information. Attachments cannot be submitted as part of the consultation.

The consultation is open to all interested parties, including industry representatives, non-governmental organisations, researchers and members of the public. Stakeholders are encouraged to prepare in advance and to participate in this consultation to ensure that SEAC’s final opinion on the restriction proposal is scientifically robust and fit for purpose.

To support interested parties in preparing for the consultation, ECHA will hold an online information session on 30 October 2025. More details about this event will be provided on ECHA’s website. Consultation guidelines will also be published to help stakeholders submit relevant information that can be considered by the Committee when finalising its opinion.

ECHA will confirm the exact starting date of the consultation in March 2026.

Next steps
After reviewing the consultation feedback, SEAC is expected to adopt its final opinion by the end of 2026. This adoption will conclude ECHA’s committees’ scientific evaluation of the proposed restriction as announced on 27 August 2025.

Background
The proposal to restrict PFAS in the EU/EEA was prepared by authorities in Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden. It was submitted to ECHA on 13 January 2023. It aims to reduce PFAS emissions into the environment and make products and processes safer for people. The six-month consultation ran from 22 March to 25 September 2023.

Currently, ECHA’s scientific committees, comprised of independent experts from EU Member States, are evaluating the proposal.

The European Commission will decide on the restriction in consultation with the EU Member States.

Circular textile technology specialist RE&UP supports BESTSELLER’s women’s brand ONLY in launching a new jersey program of basic tops made from next-generation recycled polyester. The first styles are already in stores. 

Using its modular recycling technology, RE&UP transforms post-consumer and factory textile waste into fibers that meet the same performance standards as virgin materials. In ONLY’s initial production run, over 11 styles were converted to RE&UP’s Next-Gen Polyester, equating to more than 100,000 t-shirts – demonstrating that recycled fibers can be cost-competitive and ready for large-scale adoption. 

Turning end-of-life textiles into fibers ready for mainstream fashion, proving circular solutions can scale today. By integrating recycled fibers into mainstream collections, ONLY sets a benchmark for other brands seeking circular solutions. 

“This project proves that scaling the production of recycled polyester from textile waste is achievable. Transforming the industry is undoubtedly a complex and lengthy process, but initiatives like this demonstrate we are making progress,” says Ozgur Atsan, Chief Commercial Officer at RE&UP. 

"RE&UP shares our dedication to innovation and quality, and their Next-Gen textile-to-textile recycled polyester meets the high standards we set for our products," says Pernille Tøttrup, Sourcing Process Manager at ONLY. 

RE&UP’s technology separates polyester and cotton in end-of-life garments and regenerates them into fibers that maintain durability and performance – all while keeping materials in a true textile-to-textile loop. By reducing reliance on virgin polyester, RE&UP is supporting the industry lower its environmental footprint and showing that scalable, circular solutions are already achievable.

• Each European generates 132 kg of food waste and 12 kg of clothing and footwear waste per year 
• 2030 targets to reduce food waste 
• Producers to cover costs of collecting, sorting and recycling waste textiles  

September, 9 the European Parliament gave its final green light to new measures to prevent and reduce waste from food and textiles across the EU.

Cutting down food waste
The updated legislation will introduce binding food waste reduction targets, to be met at national level by 31 December 2030: 10% from food processing and manufacturing and 30% per capita from retail, restaurants, food services and households. These targets will be calculated in comparison to the amount generated as an annual average between 2021 and 2023. Following Parliament’s request, EU countries will have to take measures to ensure that economic operators having a significant role in the prevention and generation of food waste (to be identified in each country) facilitate the donation of unsold food that is safe for human consumption.

Producers to cover costs of collecting, sorting and recycling waste textiles
Producers that make textiles available in the EU will have to cover the costs of their collection, sorting and recycling, through new producer responsibility (EPR) schemes to be set up by each member state, within 30 months of the directive’s entry into force. These provisions will apply to all producers, including those using e-commerce tools and irrespective of whether they are established in an EU country or outside the Union. Micro-enterprises will have an extra year to comply with the EPR requirements.

The new rules will cover products such as clothing and accessories, hats, footwear, blankets, bed and kitchen linen, and curtains. On Parliament’s initiative, EU countries may also set up EPR schemes for mattress producers.
Member states should also address ultra-fast fashion and fast fashion practices when deciding on financial contributions to the EPR schemes.

According to the second reading rules, the President announced in plenary that the proposed act was deemed adopted (the position was already agreed by Council earlier this summer).

Next steps
The law will now be signed by both co-legislators, ahead of its publication in the EU Official Journal. EU countries will have 20 months following its entry into force to transpose the rules into national legislation.

Background
In July 2023, the Commission proposed a revision of the EU rules on waste, targeted at food and textile waste. Every year, almost 60 million tonnes of food waste (132 kg per person) and 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste are generated in the EU. Clothing and footwear alone account for 5.2 million tonnes of waste, equivalent to 12 kg of waste per person every year. It is estimated that less than 1% of all textiles worldwide are recycled into new products.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited, a global sustainable chemical company, is accelerating the textile industry’s transition to lower-carbon materials with its scalable, high-performance bio-based PET fibers and yarns under the deja™ Bio portfolio. 

At the upcoming Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress later in September, Claire Mattelet, Global Sustainability Program Head for Indorama Ventures’ Fibers Business, will share the company’s experience in developing a fully certified, low-carbon supply chain at scale. 

Her presentation will explore several challenges, such as 

• securing reliable sources of renewable feedstocks to produce bio-based PTA and MEG inhouse or sourcing bio-based chemicals such as bio-based MEG from trusted partners 
• converting feedstock into PET chips, yarns, and fibers 
• and navigating complex certification requirements 

As a result, Indorama Ventures is now able to offer customers and brand owners an integrated, fully certified supply chain through mass balance at scale. 

Using a mass-balance approach means that renewable feedstocks, such as used cooking oil, are blended with fossil-based raw materials in existing production systems. 
The renewable content is then allocated to final products using certified methods like ISCC+, ensuring traceability throughout the value chain and compliance with chain-of-custody requirements. 

By leveraging existing infrastructure, coupled with R&D capabilities and proven technologies, Indorama Ventures enables rapid market deployment of bio-based PET fibers and yarns 
that are chemically identical to their fossil counterparts. This ensures customer processes remain the same, performance metrics such as durability, dyeability, and strength are equal to virgin solutions, 
and brand owners and converters can speed up qualification lead times and immediately reduce scope 3 emissions to seamlessly upgrade their existing product lines. 

Indorama Ventures invites brand owners, manufacturers, and industry partners to explore the deja™ Bio portfolio and join the movement toward a lower-carbon textile industry. 
The technology is proven, the supply chain is built. 

Demand for recycled yarn is growing. And the number of TRUECYCLED installations in India is growing too! More and more future-facing companies are driving progress toward a more sustainable textiles industry by producing high-quality yarn from waste through specialized equipment and process know-how from Trützschler. The TRUECYCLED installations in India join a growing group of companies around the globe. This includes Trützschler customers in Türkiye as well as across Europe. 

TRUECYCLED is Trützschler’s complete solution for state-of-the-art recycling of pre-consumer and postconsumer textile waste. It encompasses all process steps – from cutting and tearing textile waste through to carding and drawing secondary fibers. Trützschler’s technological expertise enables partner companies to produce recycled yarns with the best possible quality from hard textile waste. In India, USHA YARN was awarded as the first TRUECYCLED reference customer in 2023. Now ten more reference customers are celebrated. TRUECYCLED is gaining traction in India, where demand for recycled yarn is growing rapidly. 
 
The TRUECYCLED pioneers in India are taking action to promote more sustainable, circular value chains in the textile industry. Their yarns contain a substantial amount of textile hard waste, manufactured in a line of Trützschler machinery configured specifically for recycling. All use the T-BLEND blow room line and Trützschler carding machines. 
 

• Anangoor Textile Mills (based in Kangayam): Produces 30 tons of blended open-end yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 40) per day, using more than 50 percent raw materials from pre-consumer waste. 
• Eco spin yarn (based in Derabassi): Specialized in 100 percent cotton and poly-cotton blended yarn. This company produces 18 tons of recycled yarn (Ne 10 to Ne 40) per day. It mainly uses 100 percent pre-consumer waste for cotton and up to 20 percent rPET fibers for poly-cotton blends. 
• Fabtech International Hosieries (based in Tirupur): Manufactures 8 tons of blended open-end yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 40) per day, using more than 50 percent raw materials from pre-consumer waste. 
• KS Spinning Mills (based in Panipat): Specializing in cotton and poly-cotton blended yarns with a capacity of 36 tons per day, this company produces a wide range of recycled open-end yarns from Ne 1 to Ne 40. For cotton yarn, the company uses 100 percent raw materials from preconsumer waste. Poly-cotton blended yarns are produced with a blend of up to 20 percent recycled polyester and up to 80 percent pre-consumer waste. 
• Maatrishakti Cotspin (based in Panipat): An open-end yarn expert, manufacturing 18 tons of cotton and poly-cotton blends per day (Ne 10 to Ne 40), using 70 to 80 percent raw materials from pre-consumer waste. 
• Oasis Textiles (based in Derabassi): Each day, this producer makes 36 tons of recycled yarn – using more than 70 percent raw material from pre-consumer waste (Ne 10 to Ne 40). 
• Shreeji Cotfab (based in Neemarana): Produces 18 tons per day of open-end yarn made from cotton and poly-cotton blends (Ne 10 to Ne 30), primarily using more than 70 percent of recycled materials. 
• Shri Pachaiamman Spinners (based in Coimbatore): Turns more than 50 percent preconsumer waste into hosiery yarn (Ne 10 to 30), producing 13 tons per day and using 100 percent recycled materials. 
• Sri Velayudhaswamy Spinning Mills (based in Dindigul): This customer produces 14 tons of recycled yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 40) per day from a blend of recycled cotton and polyester, using more than 50 percent pre-consumer waste. 
• Tirumalai Textiles (based in Coimbatore): Using more than 50 percent of pre-consumer waste, this manufacturer produces 17.5 tons of open-end yarn (Ne 10 to Ne 30) per day for weaving and hosiery applications.