From the Sector

The Global Fashion Summit was hosted by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) in Copenhagen on 7-8 June. The event was centred around the theme ‘Alliances for a New Era’ and convened over 900 leaders from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to drive urgent action.

Attendees heard from 112 speakers including HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark; Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability & institutional Affairs Officer, Kering; Leo Rongone, CEO, Bottega Veneta; Thierry Andretta, CEO, Mulberry; Lily Cole, Author & Podcaster on climate solutions and Advisor for UNECE; Nicolaj Reffstrup, Founder, GANNI; Maximillian Bittner, CEO, Vestiaire Collective; Paul Polmon, Co-Author, Net Positive; Bobby Kolade, Fashion Designer; Halide Alagöz, Chief Product Officer, Ralph Lauren Corporation; Aditi Mayer, Sustainable fashion blogger and labor rights activist; Lindita Xhaferi Salihu, Fashion Charter Lead, UNFCCC; and more.

Multiple companies, such as GFA, Ralph Lauren, Apparel Impact Institute, Fashion Revolution, GANNI, TrusTrace and Mulberry, chose to announce their latest sustainability measures at the landmark event.

Innovation Forum connected fashion companies with sustainable solution providers
This year’s Summit also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 24 sustainable solution providers – equipping them with the tools to turn words into meaningful actions. More than 300 facilitated business meetings between fashion companies and sustainable solution providers took place during the two days of the Summit.

With an annual report entitled 'Here.We.Go' and a sustainability report 'Shaping sustainable living, together', B.I.G. is also publishing a strong ambition for a sustainable future.

Offering sustainable flooring and material solutions will be the number one priority for the coming years.

The Group's first sustainability report is built around a self-designed sustainability model - "Route 2030" - which is based on achievable commitments, covers the main priorities and reflects B.I.G.'s vision in a sincere way.

Their vision for the B.I.G. change is to actively build a better future by their our carbon footprint to zero and doing business in a transparent, integer way. In this sense, it is the translation of the Group's purpose defined in 2021: shaping sustainable living, together.

Pol Deturck adds “By 2030, together with a broad group of suppliers, stakeholders and partners, we want to be the leader in sustainable flooring and material solutions. Specifically, our future value proposition is based on products and services that are environmentally & climate friendly, circular and offered by talented, innovative people with an emphasis on integrity and respect for values. This results more in a recurring value proposition for the future.”

Clear growth ambitions
As a 100% family-owned international Group with a clear long-term vision, B.I.G. stayed true to their plans and kept on investing in all areas of their business.
“The ambition for 2021 was to invest over 100 mio euro. But we were held back by external, unforeseen factors: from delays on quotes and execution to the lack of availability and resources due to the pandemic. If all goes as planned, we’ll make up for it in 2022 with an investment budget well over 100 million euro. The main areas of interest will be sustainability, innovation and Industry 4.0.” says Pieter-Jan Sonck, CFO of B.I.G.

Adding to the gradual top-line growth of recent years, the Group can look back on an unprecedented financial boom. The driving forces: favorable market conditions, a revitalized growth strategy and a team of nearly 5.000 first-class employees.

B.I.G. reported a turnover of EUR 2,5 billion, an increase of 45 % compared to 2020. The Group ebitda amounted to EUR 451 million, an increase of 120 % compared to 2020 and a net result of EUR 274 million, a growth of 215% compared to 2020.

Fruitful year for all Business Units
It was a fruitful year for all 3 business units, but the Group's business unit Polymers stood out. Exceptionally strong demand in Europe and North America, combined with raw material shortages and unplanned shutdowns of competitors, pushed prices and margins up to highs. The Polymers facilities ran at full capacity to meet the customers’ needs and hit all-time profit records during several months.

The Group's business unit Flooring Solutions also fared well. Most divisions and regions outperformed amid surging energy prices, disrupted supply chains, cost volatility in transport and raw materials, and other challenges. Their sustained focus on innovation, design and product differentiation led to an improved operating result at the end of 2021.

The achievements by Engineered Solutions echo those of the other two business units, from volume increases to budget increases. B.I.G. took big leaps forward in all its key markets, including the automotive sector, geotextiles and filtration.

Huntsman Textile Effects, a global leader in innovative solutions and environmentally sustainable products, will be at Outdoor Retailer in Denver, Colorado this week to present end-to-end solutions that enable outdoor apparel brands to achieve the functionality that outdoor adventurers crave with on-trend aesthetics and a high degree of sustainability.

Resource-saving solutions
Huntsman will highlight the AVITERA® SE Fast process. This technology delivers the lowest environmental impact for dyeing polyester-cellulosic (PES-CO) blends. It combines alkali-clearable TERASIL® W/WW disperse dyes and AVITERA® SE reactive dyes to cut processing time from around nine hours to just six, helping mills to reduce the water and energy required for production by up to 50% and to increase output by up to 25% or more. The new process also delivers outstanding wet-fastness to ensure that sportswear will not bleed or stain during home laundering or while in storage or transit.

EROPON® E3-SAVE is another next-generation water-saving innovation. An all-in-one textile auxiliary for PES processing, it allows pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing to be combined in a single bath and eliminates the need for anti-foaming products, which shortens processing time and further saves water and energy.

Eco-friendly stain and rain resistance
Huntsman will also present eco-friendly finishes that repel water and stains to help garments look new for longer. Continuing its long-standing relationship with Chemours, Huntsman is highlighting Teflon™ EcoElite with Zelan™ R3 technology. The industry’s first renewably sourced water-repellent finish, it contains 63% plant-based materials and exceeds performance levels possible with traditional fluorinated technologies, preserving breathability while offering excellent water repellency and durability.

Another breakthrough for brands and mills is PHOBOTEX® RSY for outerwear. A next-generation non-fluorinated water-repellent finish, its performance is comparable to formulations based on per-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs), delivering sustainable protection that keeps the wearer dry, even in the most demanding environments. It is a perfect combination of excellent water repellency and extremely high wash durability.

Innovative odor control solutions
Huntsman will also showcase antimicrobial and odor-control solutions as part of its partnership with Sciessent. Sciessent’s latest anti-odor technology, NOBO™, has been specifically developed to reduce odors in natural and synthetic fabrics. It can be incorporated into virtually any fabric, making it ideal for everything from base layer and activewear tops to socks and underwear to hiking pants, chinos and hard shell jackets. It offers a cost-effective way to upgrade everyday garments.

In addition, the partners will also present Sciessent’s Agion Active X2®, a next-generation odor-control solution that combines advanced antimicrobial and odor-absorbing technologies to both capture and fight odor-causing bacteria, and Lava X2®, a standalone odor adsorption product and key component of Agion Active X2® that attracts, adsorbs and degrades odors for long-lasing odor protection.

Albini Group, historic manufacturer of high-end shirting fabrics, meets C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, international platform for the promotion and development of innovative and sustainable textiles. Two groundbreaking companies joining forces in the name of ethical and technological development through the C.L.A.S.S. Material Hub, the section dedicated to fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics that are changing the fashion and textile industry.  The values in which Albini Group believes and the strong sensitivity to environmental issues have led the company to also address the issue of the risk of toxic and harmful chemicals in a systemic way, integrating into the production cycles activities and controls aimed at gradually eliminating their presence, with the clear objective of protecting man and the environment.

Three main research areas - innovative fibers and yarns, sustainable dyes and green chemistry - united by the task of transferring cutting-edge technologies through open innovation. Among the new projects presented is "Off the Grain," born from the collaboration with Riso Gallo, a leading rice producer in Italy. It is a new type of dye derived from the processing of a particular variety of black rice: the boiling water of the rice, which can no longer be used for the food industry, is transformed into a natural dye, resulting in significant water savings during the dyeing process.

"Grounded Indigo" is a natural textile dyestuff, born from the search for dyeing practices that are more responsible to people and the environment. For this project, ALBINI_next chose to collaborate with Stony Creek Colors, an American producer of the world's only 100% plant-based indigo that is USDA BioPreferred certified.

The third project, called "HempFeel," is an innovative hemp oil-based finishing, tipically used for cosmetic products. ALBINI_next was the first company to apply it to fabrics of different weights, compositions and structures. HempFeel replaces silicones usually used in finishing, thus reducing the release of microplastics and giving fabrics a soft and durable hand.

"When discussing values related to creativity, next-generation production and commitment to ethics and traceability, Albini is an extremely important point of reference." says Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of C.L.A.S.S. "This is why we are delighted with its inclusion within our Material Hub, alongside its colleagues of the responsible innovation movement. Follow us on this new common path. Next- generation solutions and nice surprises will not be missed."

C.L.A.S.S. has taken another strategic step with Training, an educational offer made of three moments aimed at sharing valuable and practical information concerning three main areas of sustainable development. Training will be adding value to the Smart Academy offer by C.L.A.S.S., a program of events and conferences, lectures or customized training services, united by an important goal: to educate, raise awareness and inspire professionals, students and even consumers with an eye to the values of responsibility.

There are three trainings offered:

1. Introduction to a new generation of fashion
   C.L.A.S.S. team will introduce and explain the new generation of value-driven fashion where the fusion of design, innovation, communication and responsibility shapes an informed and competitive business, able to play both at an economic and social level. Since 2007, at the base of our philosophy is a formula: Virtuous Fashion, the one with the capital F, is the product of an integration of design (D), innovation (I), sustainability (S) and communication (C). In brief: F = D x I x S x C.
    
2. Introduction to Smart Ingredients
   What is a responsible material? How to source responsibly? Which are the latest smart ingredients that can enrich with new generation fashion collections?
   During the session participant will be guided through materials available in the market, and will have the chance to have an “informed background“ of each one of the materials' journey. Conscious Choices can be made ONLY IF we have all the true full information in our hands. This training informd participant to make the best informed choice for their objectives. A simple but facts driven introduction to the key available innovative and sustainable materials: naturals, transformed and innovative where traceability, transparency, innovation, performance, responsible measurements are leading both the storymaking and the storytelling of each one of them.
    
3. Introduction to Sustainability Report
   The preparation of the company's sustainability report is a fundamental moment to define objectives, identify improvement actions, and measure its environmental and social impact. It is a job that involves the entire company team, which can transform the report into an opportunity for growth.
   The package offered by C.L.A.S.S., in collaboration with Silvia Gambi, sustainable fashion journalist and podcaster of Solo Moda Sostenibile, combines training with personalized consulting with a coaching action to guide the company team in the preparation of its sustainability report, offering the necessary support to create a document that tells about the company, its values, its commitment and also its objectives.

• with a ready-to-use swatch book dedicated to its DEEP DIVE sustainable dyeing system for dark, popular color basics

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, launches its first ever ready-to-use swatch book, dedicated to creating sustainable black and dark color basics for faster time to market, to support its popular DEEP DIVE 2.0 system.

In 2018, Archroma launched its system solutions, a holistic approach aimed at addressing the growing expectations of the public in terms of keeping consumers, and the environment, safe.
Under the umbrella of "The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it's our nature", the Archroma systems are designed to create innovation and performance, whilst reducing the impacts on water, energy and other natural resources. The savings generated by these 70+ system solutions are demonstrated by Archroma's proprietary ONE WAY Impact Calculator, a ground-breaking tool launched in 2012 and continuously upgraded to simulate and optimize the footprint of textile application processes.

One of these systems, DEEP DIVE 2.0, has attracted a lot of interest not just from textile manufacturers but also from major brands and retailers worldwide. This popular system combines Drimaren® Ultimate HD, high-performance reactive dyes, with Blue Magic, an all-in-one pretreatment, Optifix® RUB New liq and Siligen® SIH-S New liq, a finishing treatment improved rub fastness and elegant hand feel, and an effective hydrolyzed dye remover, Cyclanon® XC-W New liq. The result is a shorter dyeing process combining right-first-time productivity, an improved fabric quality for longer lasting end-articles, as well as dramatically reduced water and energy utilization for brands committed to drive more sustainable production. Savings can reach up to 31% water and 34% energy.

The system is ideally suited for medium and dark cottons that have high performing fastness to light, multiple home laundering, saliva – in other words: apparel used for fashion, sports and baby’s wear.
At the same time, interested manufacturers and brands were facing the constant challenge of the fashion industry: time to market.

Often design is separated from execution in the factory and as such often designers initially select color that cannot be met in reality on different fibers or production routes in terms of color flare, metamerism, brightness, depth and now sustainable metrics – leading to lengthy delays and compromises in function, performance and/or color.
Archroma decided to create a dedicated tool aimed at addressing these issues. The company developed a new, unique book with color swatches made with the system that is ready to implement immediately into production thanks to engineered color standards and specifications.

This new tool offers a path to bridge the gap between “art and science” by providing at inspiration phase fully executable deep colors for cotton with controlled color metamerism and at the same time demonstrate water, energy and chemical savings, enhanced color fastness using safe chemistry for the end consumer. As a wardrobe staple, medium to dark shades are very popular with consumers. As a result, most brands and retailers often have and sell up to 60% of medium to dark shades in their seasonal palettes. It’s also the dark shades that use the most water and energy in production, so prioritizing these colors would have the largest ecological positive impact. The 48 colors swatched in the DEEP DIVE 2.0 book have been selected based on market popularity to allow brands and manufacturers to match that very stable market demand. Customers may use these colors as presented, or as inspiration whereby Archroma can create and match new custom colors using the DEEP DIVE 2.0 system.

Christophe Maestripieri, Global Head of the Archroma Brand Studio, the company’s department dedicated to support brands’ projects and innovations, explains: “We wanted to make sure our partners have all the tools they need to convert to more sustainable colors. We had the ideal dyeing system to do that, DEEP DIVE 2.0, with its high performance and reduced impacts on resources. Now, with the new DEEP DIVE 2.0 swatch book, we also offer to brands and manufacturers a way to select sustainable color options that meet the market demand for high quality medium to dark shades which can be implemented into production right away.”

• adidas x Parley’s global impact initiative, Run for the Oceans, returns for its fifth year, uniting sporting communities across the planet
• More activities than ever will be eligible for Run for the Oceans, with the introduction of tennis, wheelchair movement, football and more
• People across the world can take part by signing-up to the challenge from today and logging activity between May 23 – June 8

As we approach World Oceans Day on June 8, adidas and its longstanding partner Parley for the Oceans are once again encouraging the global sporting community to turn activity into action and Run for the Oceans in 2022.

For the first time, new activities have been introduced to the challenge, making this the most inclusive Run for the Oceans yet. People from all parts of the global sporting community are invited to hit the streets, the tennis court and the football field, and unite to help protect the oceans from plastic waste. For every 10 minutes of running from select activities, such as running, tennis or football*, recorded by participants via the adidas Runtastic app, Joyrun, Codoon, Yeudongquan or Strava, Parley will clean up the equivalent weight of one plastic bottle from beaches, remote islands, and coastlines before it reaches the ocean (up to a maximum of 250,000kg).

Launching between May 23 – June 8, the event returns for its fifth year, with the ambition of mobilising a generation to help end plastic waste. Research shows that the world is at a tipping point, with it predicted that oceans will contain more plastic than fish by 2050.

Since the beginning of the partnership in 2015, adidas has made more than 50 million pairs of shoes with Parley Ocean Plastic and close to 18 million pairs in 2021 alone - this includes plastic waste intercepted from beaches and coastal communities, preventing it from polluting the oceans.

For 2022, adidas x Parley have announced the launch of Adizero X Parley and Ultraboost 22 X Parley . With a carbon footprint of just 3.5kg per pair, the Adizero X Parley is the first time adidas and Parley have combined to launch a lower footprint concept, a milestone for the partnership delivered through innovation and with no compromise on shoe performance.  

From raw material interception, processing, packaging, all the way to the end of product life, adidas calculate and communicate its carbon footprint, conforming to an internationally recognized standard: ISO 14067. The footprint results made available provide full transparency on the complete lifecycle of the product.

Cobra International, a leading manufacturer of advanced composite products for the watersports, automotive, marine, and industrial sectors, will highlight recent diversification into new composite markets at JEC World 2022, with exhibits ranging from VTOL drones to carbon fibre prosthetics.  Cobra will also demonstrate how it is working alongside automotive and water sports customers to further enhance the sustainability of products in these sectors.

High Volume Production Capacity for the UAV sector
Cobra will display a wing from the Swiftlet UAV. This compact tactical fixed wing UAV platform has a 5.5m wingspan and was developed by the Royal Thai Air Force and National Science and Technology Development Agency (NSTDA) for survey, monitoring and search and rescue operations. Cobra manufactured the 32kg Swiftlet composite airframe using a combination of CNC cut carbon sandwich internal structure and PVC foam sandwich skins using both high grade glass fibre and carbon fibre reinforcements.  

Sustainability Options for Automotive and Watersports
Sustainability has a been a key focus for the Cobra Waterports division and CAC, the Cobra automotive business unit. At JEC World 2022, Cobra will showcase the increasing material and process options it has developed with both bio-resin and natural fibre reinforcements variants presented alongside more traditional carbon fibre parts.

Visitors will be able to get up close to a new Bio SUP Wingfoil board featuring a basalt, flax, bamboo and GreenPoxy bio-epoxy construction created for partners NSP, as well as state-of-the-art compression moulded prepreg foils. Cobra’s first fully recyclable surfboard incorporating the Recyclamine® resin technology that Cobra was recognised for in the 2020 JEC Innovation Awards will also be on display alongside a new Audi e-tron foil by Aerofoils – the world’s safest electric hydrofoil board.

The CAC team (Automotive Business Unit of Cobra) will present a set of OEM mirror cap parts that showcase a range of carbon SMC, woven visual carbon, pure woven visual flax, hybrid flax-carbon and painted flax construction options for the same component.  Clear carbon aesthetic and structural parts including CAC made M-carbon components for the BMW S 1000 RR Motorcycle will furthermore underline the high quality and eye-for-detail for which CAC is renowned.

Carbon Prosthetics
An entirely new composite application for the company, Cobra will also show two composite prosthetic devices at JEC which were productionised by the in-house design and development team. Working alongside a leading Thai university and a medical device OEM, Cobra created a rapid and cost effective series production process for a lightweight carbon fibre prosthetic foot. In another example of lightweight composites creating major quality of life improvements, Cobra has also designed and manufactured a carbon and glass fibre prepreg foot support for Elysium Industries.

The Sustainable Apparel Forum takes place on 10 May 2022 in Dhaka, Bangladesh, bringing together government ministers and advisors, the European Union, UN bodies, brands, global fashion campaigners, brands, manufacturers and industry leaders.

This year’s SAF, the third such event, aims to establish Bangladesh as one of the world’s most responsible apparel sourcing destinations. That’s why senior government representatives will be speaking and in attendance, listening to the needs of industry and what needs to be done to take Bangladesh garment production to the next level.

Senior representatives from globally renowned recycling and renewable energy companies will also be in attendance as well as exhibit their sustainability and green technologies, products and solutions under the same roof.

The SAF will showcase opportunities for much-needed green financing in the industry.
Issues under the spotlight will include climate action, environmental social & governance (ESG) and green finance, purchasing practices, circular economy, and regulatory reforms.

Speakers of the SAF include Dr Tawfiq-e-elahi Chowdhury, Bir Bikrom, adviser to the Prime Minister of Bangladesh on power, energy and mineral resources; Salman F Rahman, MP, adviser to the Prime Minister of Bangladesh on private industry & investment; Tipu Munshi, MP, commerce minister of Bangladesh; Begum Monnujan Sufian, MP, state minister for labor and employment of Bangladesh; Saber Hossain Chowdhury, MP, chairman of parliamentary standing committee on ministry of environment, forest and climate change of Bangladesh;  Anna Athanasopoulou, head of unit for social economy & creative industries European Commission;  Barbara Bijelic, financial sector and regulatory engagement lead centre for responsible business conduct, OECD;  Lindita Xhaferi-Salihu, sectors engagement lead, UNFCCC; Gagan Bansal, global material innovation & strategy manager, H&M; Javier Santonja Olcina,  regional head, Bangladesh & Pakistan, Inditex; Faruque Hassan, president, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BGMEA); Dr Mark Anner, founding director, Center for Global Workers’ Rights and also professor, Penn State University, USA; Ayesha Barenblat, founder and CEO, Remake;  Najet Draper, vice president research, Better Buying; and  Tuomo Poutiainen,  country director, Bangladesh, ILO.

This collaborative and educational project showcases the use of waste as a resource and prolonging the life of the garment through color. It came to life thanks to key brands who donated items that were then transformed by Officina39’s Recycrom™ applications into a renewed head-to-toe look that was then displayed as an art installation.

What’s the Recipe for change? For Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab, this question gives shape to the collaborative and educational project Circular Explorations, specially presented at Amsterdam Denim Days Festival on April 22-23.

Sharing ground values and a common view on the fashion of tomorrow, Officina39, Italian based Chemistry plus Creativity company for the textile sector, joined hands with Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab and influential brands to celebrate the importance of an ongoing commitment towards circularity.

Several donated items – overstock, second-grade production or damaged, unsold pieces – were updated with newly developed applications made with Officina39’s Recycrom™, the one-of-a-kind, patented dyestuffs range made from textile waste. This Circular Explorations capsule is displayed at Denim Days Festival as an art installation, not only to dress people but also to get them acquainted with circularity because they are an important player in closing the loop.

The Recipe for change that emerges from this color research is based on important values and keywords:

• Consciousness – awareness of oneself and one's surroundings
• Courage – the mental or moral strength to venture, persevere, and withstand danger, fear, or difficulty.
• Creativity – the power to imagine and produce new possibilities.
• Connection – a relationship in which a person or thing is linked or associated with something else, the act or state of connecting.
• Collaboration – the act of working together for a common goal.

Combined together, they produce CHANGE, which is a driving force for a better tomorrow.

This collaborative and innovative project that addresses circularity is also in direct support of United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, in particular number 12-Responsible Consumption and Production, number 9-Industry innovation & Infrastructure and number 17-Partnership for the Goals.