From the Sector

TINTEX is this year recipient of the unique and prestigious annual recognition from The “Instituto de Apoio às Pequenas e Médias Empresas e à Inovação” (IAPMEI). TINTEX has been selected in recognition of its pioneering, Naturally Advanced global leadership, and the company’s superior and responsible fabric making for a fashion system that is driven by investments, transparency and fully traceable innovation.

TINTEX is pleased to open its doors as the Naturally Advanced centre of excellence in the latest IAPMEI OPEN DAY for textile leaders, protagonists, media and customers to experience, understand and enjoy the unique achievements TINTEX offers to the contemporary Portuguese textiles industry .
“We selected TINTEX to underline the importance of taking advantage of digitization and modernization at different levels in the textile industry being stunned by their commitment, shedding light on our territory’s most advanced and responsible processes and skills” José Marques dos Santos, president of IAPMEI.

In a fast moving globalized market, all companies must be able to adapt quickly and using innovation, creativity, and responsibility can help deliver successes. And here TINTEX can network between Technological Centers, Universities, and Knowledge Centers, as a strategic business and holistic imperative. And so sharing the Naturally Advanced strategy of TINTEX as a driver for change, IAPMEI recognizes this TINTEX OPEN DAY as a demonstration of practical market potential, and has partnered with CENTI  (Centre for Nanotechnology and Smart Materials the Institute for New Technologies) and CITEVE (an institution of national and international reference for the promotion of Innovation and Technological Development) as a way to guarantee this success.
 
Being able to drive material innovation, and to promote a new generation of sustainable values to contemporary fashion, active, sports and lingerie markets through responsible supply chains can be transformative for our future fashion systems, and TINTEX is proud to be selected as part of the Make Fashion Circular initiative by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, helping  to better activate these changes across the fashion industry for all to enjoy.

Hexcel has joined forces with a Lyon-based startup, LAVOISIER COMPOSITES. This company has developed CARBONIUM®, a new generation of material sourced entirely from carbon composite by-products generated by the French aerospace sector.

Hexcel supplies high-performance composite materials for the latest generation of aircraft such as the Airbus A350 XWB (53% composite structure). This has greatly contributed to the reduction of the aircraft's weight, thereby reducing its fuel consumption and carbon footprint. Composites are a significant first step toward tackling environmental and economic challenges, and eco-sourcing of the industry by-products also plays a key role.

CARBONIUM®, which was developed with a process based on three patents pending, reduces overall environmental impact by 40-50%, compared to equivalent products derived from virgin materials. Based on the "climate change" factor, the life cycle assessment carried out with Hexcel revealed that the up-cycling of by-products from the aerospace composites industry leads to a reduction in CO2 emissions of 13kg per kg of CARBONIUM® used.
In its first year of operation, LAVOISIER COMPOSITES has already enjoyed commercial success, including the launch of two top-of-the-range watch models by Swiss luxury watchmaker ULYSSE NARDIN using this new material.

From aircraft fuselages to watchmaking, the composites manufacturing cycle presents opportunities for reducing our impact on the environment.

Farbenfroh und frisch startet der hawaiianische Schuhhersteller OluKai in den Frühling. Für den richtigen Aloha-Vibe sorgen die neuen Damenschuhe Pehuea Li und Pehuea Humu Lau. Während sich die Vegetation auf den hawaiianischen Inseln mit Macht auf den farbenprächtigen Sommer einstellt, präsentiert der Schuhspezialist Damenschuhe für die warmen Tage.

So angenehm wie eine frische Brise in der Hitze: Der Pehuea Li (UVP 100 Euro) ist ein Sommer-Sneaker! Er punktet auf den ersten Blick mit lässiger Optik, aber auch seine inneren Werte überzeugen: Das leichte und atmungsaktive Mesh-Obermaterial bringt Luft an den Fuß und sorgt für ein angenehmes Klima und besonderen Tragekomfort.
 
Auf Hawaii wird es nie richtig kalt – aber einen Winter gibt es auch dort. Wenn im Frühjahr die Temperaturen steigen, erblühen die Inseln. Hibiskus, Eukalyptus oder Plumeria – OluKai zaubert die heimische Flora auf einen ganz besonderen Schuh. Die Farben und detaillierten Stickereien des Pehuea Humu Lau (UVP 100 Euro) sind von der Blütenpracht Hawaiis inspiriert.
 
Beide Modelle sind mit herausnehmbaren sowie waschbaren Einlegesohlen ausgestattet. Ihre anatomisch geformten Fußbetten sorgen für Dämpfung und bringen ungeahnten Tragekomfort. Pehuea Li und Pehuea Humu Lau verfügen über den OluKai-eigenem Drop-In-Heel®: Ihre Fersen lassen sich umklappen und verwandeln den Sneaker bzw. Slip-On fix in offene Slipper.

Ein Teil des Erlöses für diese Schuhe kommt der Ama OluKai Foundation zugute. Die von Olukai gegründete Stiftung hat es sich zum Ziel gemacht, das kulturelle Erbe von Hawaii zu bewahren und fördert unterschiedliche Projekte und Vereine auf Hawaii. Jedes Paar Pehuea Li und Pehuea Humu Lau gibt so etwas an die Insel und ihre Bewohner zurück.

• Latex-free: UltraBond allows 100% recyclable thermal bonded nonwovens
• Sustainability & cost-efficiency: significant reductions in CO2 emissions and energy and water consumption for manufacturers of needlepunched exhibition & contract flooring
• UltraBond debuts at Domotex 2019 Stand B56 Hall 11

Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) unveils a unique opportunity for carpet manufacturers to create fully recyclable needlepunch carpets, and benefit from production and resource savings, without influencing performance.

Launched at Domotex 2019, new UltraBond is a patented polyolefin bonding staple fibre that eliminates the need for latex or other chemical binders to bind nonwovens. It opens up a new path for creating 100% polypropylene (PP) needlepunch carpets which meet the same performance requirements as traditional latex-bonded carpets while reducing the end-of-life environmental impact. Functional properties such as pilling resistance, resistance to wear and abrasion, and also UV resistance are guaranteed.

Using UltraBond manufacturers finally gain the potential to cost-efficiently produce 100% recyclable carpets. In addition to the general benefits of making recycled PP available for the plastics production chain and reduced waste generation, environmental advantages and financial savings arise from a total lack of water and less energy use. As a 100% dry process, thermal bonding uses no water and results in a total absence of waste water. There is also a reduction in the VOC level of the carpet. This all leads to a significant reduction in a needlepunch carpet’s ecological footprint.

The sustainability benefits are quantified through lifecycle analysis (LCA) of an exhibition carpet application – among the primary applications for needlepunch carpets. Evaluations show that the absence of water consumption directly translates into a large energy saving of 93% when using UltraBond compared to a latex bonding solution, and also a potential annual water saving of over 20 million litres for 100 million m2 of exhibition applications in the EU. Without the addition of any other bonding agent, CO2 emissions are reduced by 35% over the full production process.

Karena Cancilleri, Vice President Beaulieu Engineered Products, Beaulieu International Group, commented, “Recyclability and achieving a greener, more cost-effective production process without compromising on current performance levels are significant unsolved topics within today’s carpet industry. By eliminating the need for latex and chemical binders through UltraBond, we offer needlepunch manufacturers a breakthrough they have been looking for that boosts environmental and economic sustainability. We see textile flooring as just the beginning. Together with our customers, we look forward to exploring the potential of this unique thermal bonding fibre in other applications such as laminated nonwovens or as an alternative to dry powders.”

Discover more about UltraBond from the Beaulieu Fibres International team at Stand B56 Hall 11, Domotex 2019 in Hannover, Germany from January 11-14, 2019.

• STOP TALKING. START ACTING.
• Climate change is real. And so is the responsibility of every human being to help in reducing waste.

We no longer want to talk about sustainability, we want to act. For January, PREMIUM is partnering with Spanish fashion label and sustainable clothing pioneer ECOALF. The brand will present its lifelong mission and latest collection in a dedicated space as well as an art installation together with conceptual artist Juan Garaizabal.

"2019 is all about digital first and an active debate about social and environmental issues. Transparency and sustainability are key words. By reducing plastic waste on all our shows, teaming up with ECOALF and giving this wonderful brand dedicated space and time for spreading their message, we are taking steps into right direction. Every little action counts. We should talk about the things we do more instead of talking about what we are not doing. We all need to wake up. Now.” – Anita Tillmann, CEO PREMIUM Group

ECOALF creates high-quality garments using recycled materials collected from the bottom of our oceans. Commitment, sustainability and innovation are at the core of everything the company does, resulting in both conscious and stylish urban, adventure, knitwear and activewear pieces.   
 
“I love collaborating with people that also believe we have the opportunity to change the world for the better. It’s no longer about what you do, but how you do it. It is important to stand up for what you believe in, because fashion cannot just be about looking good.” – Javier Goyeneche, President and Founder of ECOALF. 

On Wednesday, January 16th, at 10am and 2pm, Goyeneche will present his brand’s values, philosophy and way of working on the experience floor of SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM at Kühlhaus, right next to the STATION area. Show visitors, media and other exhibitors are invited to listen, learn and discuss.   
 
The art piece in partnership with Garaizabal unveiled at PREMIUM on January 15th is filled with waste to portray our everyday reality, and purposefully interactive so that visitors can throw their own trash inside the installation. The aim is to educate about correct waste disposal and show that every individual’s decision matters: Stop, Think, Act.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that Thailand-based Absolute Denim will be the first denim manufacturer to switch 100% of its production to aniline-free* indigo dyeing.

Absolute Denim is a Thailand-based denim manufacturer producing high quality denim with a focus on eco-friendlier materials and processes. The company can produce up to 2 million meters of denim per month (that's approximately 1.5 million pairs of jeans!), for customers that include some of the biggest brands and retailers in the world.

Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.

During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols) it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.

The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

Archroma tested Denisol® Pure Indigo at Absolute Denim mill in Thailand. Archroma wanted to be sure that the new indigo dye would perform exactly the same as conventional indigo.

James Carnahan, Head of Sustainability at Archroma, comments: “At Archroma we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable - but we cannot do it alone. Without forward-thinking manufacturers such as Absolute Denim to consciously adopt these eco-advanced innovations in their daily production, like our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo, we will not be able to move this industry forward on our resource-constrained world we live in. As consumers are increasingly aware of, and concerned about, climate change and ecological threats, this is not only the right thing to do - it is also good for business.”

“Deep down inside most of us want the world to be a better place for our loved ones and for future generations,” insists Vichai Phromvanich, Board Member, Absolute Denim, “starting with how we live, what we eat, what we wear, still trying to be cool, fashionable, still trying to be environmentally conscious. Archroma’s aniline free indigo project is therefore something we as a new generation manufacturer have supported from the beginning, by opening our doors for tests in the project phase, and now by sending out our articles to many of our customers. For us, after all, a nice pair of jeans looks even nicer without aniline!”

* Below limits of detection

Die Schweizer Modemarke DIZAIND verwandelt ihre Ledertaschen-Kollektion „Capsule“ in ein virtuelles Designstudio, das Abfälle in der Modebranche vermeiden soll.

Zürich/Schweiz – DIZAIND, ein Schweizer Hersteller maßgefertigter Taschen mit Sitz in Zürich, ist entschlossen, die Modebranche zu innovieren. In diesem Monat brachte das Unternehmen seine Kollektion „Capsule“ auf den Markt – ein virtuelles Designstudio, das 3D-Technologie und traditionelle italienische Handwerkskunst kombiniert, um maßgeschneiderte Ledertaschen anzubieten.

„Durch den Kauf einer handgefertigten Tasche von DIZAIND erwirbt man nicht nur eine persönlich gefertigte, hochwertige italienische Ledertasche, sondern unterstützt auch die traditionelle Handwerkskunst anstatt die Akteure der Fast-Fashion-Branche“, sagte Santare Slavinskas, Mitbegründer und Creative Director von DIZAIND.

Aufgrund der sich schnell ändernden Trends trägt die Modebranche ebenfalls die Verantwortung für einen Teil der Ausbeutung von Mensch und Umwelt. DIZAIND bietet eine Möglichkeit, Abfälle zu reduzieren, indem das Unternehmen die Bestellungen seiner Kunden an erfahrene Handwerker in einem kleinen Atelier in Italien weiterleitet, die die maßgefertigten Taschen mit hochwertigsten Materialien anfertigen. DIZAIND verwendet nur die besten Vollnarben- und luxuriösesten italienischen Nappaledersorten. Durch die Schaffung zeitloser Mode, die sich persönlich anfühlt und an zukünftige Generationen weitergegeben werden kann, eliminiert die nachhaltige Modemarke Abfälle und verhindert den schnellen Austausch von Produkten aufgrund sich schnell ändernder Trends. Auf jede handgefertigte Tasche gibt es eine lebenslange Garantie.

Die Ledertaschen-Kollektion „Capsule“ von DIZAIND zeigt den Kunden, dass handgefertigte Taschen modern und farbenreich sein können. Das Modeunternehmen bietet für seine italienischen Ledersorten eine große Auswahl an Farben – mehr als 60 – sowie moderne Designs, die normalerweise nicht für handgefertigte Taschen angeboten werden. Kunden werden dazu inspiriert, bei der Gestaltung ihrer perfekten Ledertasche mutig zu sein.

„Es herrscht immer noch die Vorstellung, dass eine Ledertasche, die von Kunsthandwerkern hergestellt wird, altmodisch aussieht und aus dickem braunem Leder besteht oder eine andere langweilige Farbe besitzt“, sagte Santare. „Unsere zweite Capsule-Kollektion wurde eingeführt, um zu zeigen, wie falsch diese Wahrnehmung ist, und dass moderne und farbenfrohe Taschendesigns auf traditionelle Weise von Hand gefertigt werden können.“

DIZAIND fertigt die Taschen auf Anfrage. Kunden, die eine individuellere Option wünschen, können die 3D-Software des Unternehmens verwenden, um ihre Traumtasche auf einfache Weise online zu erstellen. Sie können aus sieben Grundmodellen wählen: Handtasche, Clutch, Tragetasche, Rucksack, Umhängetasche, Reise- und Sporttasche. Mit zahlreichen Individualisierungsmöglichkeiten wie individuellen Schultergurtlängen, schönen Lederquastendesigns und verschiedenen Reißverschlussoptionen zelebriert DIZAIND die Einzigartigkeit des Stils einer jeder Person. Darüber hinaus können Kunden ihre Artikel monogrammieren lassen. Die neue Ledertaschen-Kollektion „Capsule“ bietet den Kunden mehr als 1 Million Möglichkeiten, ihre Tasche anzupassen.

Die Zoom-Funktion und die 360-Grad-Ansicht von DIZAIND erfassen alle Details und Nuancen des personalisierten Accessoires. So können die Kunden eine genaue Vorstellung davon erhalten, wie die Tasche aussehen wird. Zudem können sie alle Funktionen der Tasche sehen. Wenn Sie sich von der Besonderheit von DIZAIND überzeugen wollen und erfahren möchten, wie das neue 3D-Designstudio der Capsule-Kollektion funktioniert, besuchen Sie: www.dizaindbags.com

• conceptual and commercial garments presented at exhibition in London

After two years of research Mistra Future Fashion is honoured to present, in collaboration with Centre for Circular Design at University of the Arts London and Filippa K, an exhibition pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion. Started in 2017, the industry-embedded project Circular Design Speeds takes a unique systemic approach, showcasing what could be accomplished using existing value chains as well as what the future of sustainable fashion holds. Ground-breaking textile research from University of the Arts London is questioning normative use and design of garments in creating prototypes to be worn across a spectrum of 24 hours to 50 years. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K have produced a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The research results and garments will be presented at the launch event at the University of the Arts London, on November 23rd and open to public on the 24th and 25th of November.

On Friday November 23rd the exhibition Disrupting Patterns: Designing for Circular Speeds opens up at University of the Arts London. The exhibition is the results of a two-year research project called Circular Design Speeds aiming at pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion by testing new concepts for sustainable design in an industry setting. On display are exploratory prototypes, as well as commercial garments produced by industry partner Filippa K using existing value chains. In addition, research results on innovative materials, consumer acceptance, composting studies and Life Cycle Assessments are presented. The aim of this project is to implement research results in a real fashion industry context, focusing on speed of use and maximising fabric value retention in products.

The Service Shirt developed by Professor Rebecca Earley is designed to last for over 50 years. The concept garment explores the multiple complexities, challenges and opportunities associated with design for circular business models in extended use contexts. The Service Shirt was designed as a ‘deliberate extreme’ to have a total lifecycle of 50 years. This lifecycle includes in-house and external remanufacturing processes, as well as various use cycles – often moving between single ownership and rental and sharing contexts. It becomes the lining for a jacket and then crafted in to fashion accessories, before finally being chemically regenerated in the year 2068.

On the opposite side of the spectrum the Fast-Forward concept, developed by Prof Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy, explores alternative modes of production and use for a sustainable ‘fast-fashion’ application. Advantages with regards to climate impact are enabled through lighter material choices, nonwoven fabric production, no launder, clear routes to recovery and redistributed manufacturing systems. A sliding scale of ‘speed’ from ultra-fast forward through to a more widely accepted length of use, with adaptations to production processes and end of life, is presented. The prototypes are made from a new bio-based nonwoven material co-developed with Dr Hjalmar Granberg at RISE Research Institute of Sweden & University of the Arts London. The composition of the paper is a mix of cellulose pulp and bio-based PLA fibre, making the garment 100% biodegradable or recyclable in existing paper recycling systems.

Working closely with industry partner Filippa K made commercial testing possible. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K was able to produce a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The garments are a part of Filippa K’s Front Runner series and will be available in selected stores on November 26th. With a focus on products’ length of use and maximizing fabric value retention, Filippa K are dedicated to becoming fully circular by 2030.

“Being part of the fashion industry comes with many challenges, especially when considering the fact that we are the second most polluting industry after oil. Our industry needs to change and we believe adapting to circular models, like nature’s ecosystem, is one important solution. We want to be able to offer beautiful clothing and to make business within the planetary boundaries.”
- Elin Larsson, Sustainability Director, Filippa K

To validate the design research presented, a Life Cycle Assessment was performed on the prototypes. Mistra Future Fashion affiliated Dr. Greg Peters, Chalmers University of Technology, together with additional LCA Researchers at RISE, conclude that the production of fibres and fabrics are the main processes impacting the environment during the garment life cycles. Therefore, to extend the lifetime of existing garments and design for re-use, as done in the Service Shirt, is indeed the superior alternative compared to a reference garment.

“Compared with garments of the same mass, the extended life garments represent a large improvement in environmental performance over the reference garments, outperforming the reference garments in all effect categories. This superiority is primarily a consequence of avoiding garment production via reprinting and reassembly of the initial garment to extend its useful life.”
- Dr Greg Peters, LCA Researcher at Chalmers University of Technology

Another way to circumvent the impacts of fast fashion is to develop materials with considerably lower impacts during production, and which also avoid the barriers to recycling faced by conventional garments. Instead of hinder consumers from buying new, the act of acquiring a new garment could in fact be sustainable. The paper-based short life garments considered in this assessment show considerable impact savings when compare to the benchmark garment. Dr. Peters says,

“The paper-based garments benefit from the lower impacts of the material (fibre production, spinning and knitting) compared with conventional cotton, from their relatively light weight and also on account of the lower impacts in garment production and use.”

Denim Expert Ltd. are very proud that they have been accepted to join as a contributor to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation, The ZDHC missions is to enable brands in the textile, apparel, and footwear industries to implement chemical management best practices and advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by collaborative Engagement, Standard Setting and Implementation.

The main goals are set to eliminate priority hazardous chemicals in products and their manufacture, implement a transparent screening process to promote safer chemistry, implement common tools, best practices and training that advance chemical stewardship, partner with stakeholders to promote transparency of chemical usage and discharge and promote scaling of best practices through engagement with key stakeholders.
 
Under the guidance of the ZDHC Foundation, Denim Expert Ltd. have adopted various initiatives to ensure the zero discharge of hazardous chemicals, including:

• The establishment of traffic signals in the chemical store-room to aid in the safe storage of chemical product.
• The mandatory use of protective gloves when handling chemicals.
• The introduction of a chemical compatibility chart to ensure safe storage of chemicals and highlight their risk factor.
• Visible posting of Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) enabling close follow-up of chemical use.
• The installation of the appropriate ventilation and  temperature control in the chemical storage area.
• Establishment of an emergency response plan, with any potential chemical spillage being monitored by a specially trained technical representative.
• Clear labelling on all chemicals following ZDHC guidance.
• Strict adhesion by all employees to the chemical inventory list.
• Allocation of a designated area for chemical waste disposal and treatment.

With its membership of the ZDHC, Denim Expert Ltd. joins more than 24 signatory brands, 59 value chain affiliates, and 15 associates (including Adidas, Benetton, BURBERRY, C&A, COOP, ESPRIT, Gap Inc. , G-STAR RAW, H&M,INDITEX, Jack Wolfskin, Lbrands, LEVI STRAUSS & CO, LI-NING, MARKS & SPENCER, Hugo Boss, Nike, Primark, Puma, PVH, Target)  who are collectively working together to support implementation of safer chemical management practices.

To receive an award at PERFORMANCE DAYS is the ultimate industry recognition. In selecting the winners of the (ECO) PERFORMANCE AWARDS, the jury handles with total integrity with no outside influence and is absolutely free in making its decisions. This season there are so many outstanding innovations at the exhibition that two awards are announced!

WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY, the current FOCUS TOPIC for the next trade fair on November 28-29th, seems to have spurred the PERFORMANCE DAYS exhibitors to peak performances. The trade fair has highlighted innovations every season for the past ten years, but seldom have there been so many outstanding new developments. So many in fact, that two awards are to be presented: the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD for best sustainable development, and the PERFORMANCE AWARD for a new functional highlight.  

And the winner of the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD is:
The jury is highly enthusiastic about the nomination of the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD winner and described the award-winning fabric as the best ecological solution currently available on the market. This extraordinary laminate from Jou Jou Fish combines various sustainable technologies. Article "JYRNP0002 307" consists of 100% recycled nylon and is designed with a micro-porous membrane (functional performance 15K/10K) that is produced without solvents. This saves a lot of water, plus the fabric is made from pre-dyed fibres (solution-dyeing) and the DWR coating is applied using a dry-finish treatment. The only thing that could improve it: as the polyamide is currently produced from postindustrial waste products, it would be nice to have option of using post-consumer polyamides in the future.

And the winner of the PERFORMANCE AWARD is:
The PERFORMANCE AWARD recognizes another pioneering development. Never before has there been such a fine, yet still tear resistant, highly functional fabric. The winner is article "DPQ 1092 DWR" from Green Threads and with only 17g/m² an absolute lightweight. Particularly fine nylon yarns are used (7d and 4d); a 4d yarn has never before been used in functional fabrics. This plus the extremely good tear resistance clinched it for the jury. Another plus for the winner: this lightweight fabric can achieve with just 17 g comparable performance values to a 50g fabric; thereby, not only is the weight significantly reduced, but also the amount of raw materials and energy consumed in production. This is also a factor that protects the environment when the garment is disposed at the end of its useful life.