From the Sector

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, honed its vision of the future of the apparel and textile industry with the announcement of “PLANET CONSCIOUS+”, a roadmap designed to support brands and mills to chart their sustainability journey.

“Over the past decade, Archroma has been on a mission to lead the textile industry towards a more sustainable future. But the world’s challenges are escalating – from climate change to economic and geopolitical instability. We believe that the time is right for us to realign our vision to guide the next phase of our development. ‘PLANET CONSCIOUS+’ encapsulates both our responsibility and our potential as a company that touches and colors people’s lives every day, all around the world,” Mark Garrett, Group CEO, Archroma, said.

“PLANET CONSCIOUS+” has six dimensions, the first four of which have been rolled out over the past few months:

• SUPER SYSTEMS+: Powerful end-to-end systems that combine processing solutions and intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ deliver measurable environmental impact, more durable colors and effects, and cleaner chemistry as compared to the current market offering. This allows brands and mills to select the impact they want to achieve in line with their sustainability goals.
• SAFE EDGE+: Groundbreaking initiative represents a major commitment to providing a roadmap for compliance and cleaner chemistries for use in the textile industry by combining The Safe Edge platform with Foundation+. Foundation+, Archroma’s beyond-compliance portfolio, is a curated selection of Archroma products that utilize innovative technologies to either design out hazardous or regulated substances or reduce them by more than 95% compared to the current industry standard limits.
• ONE WAY+: Combining Archroma’s One Way Impact Calculator, a world-first online tool for sustainable value chain mapping, with its expert-led Sustainability Improvement Program (SIP), ONE WAY+ helps mills and brands overcome their specific challenges with products and tools that offers the highest operational excellence and productivity, achieves savings of resources such as water, energy, and creates differentiation with value-added end-products.
• COLOR MANAGEMENT+: An advanced color design and development solution, COLOR MANAGEMENT+ helps mills and brands work together for improved sustainability. It incorporates the industry’s largest off-the-shelf color atlas selection alongside color standards created with Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ for reduced environmental impact and consistent and accurate color reproduction.

The remaining two pillars of “PLANET CONSCIOUS+” are being introduced today to underscore that innovation and transparency are the cornerstones of the Archroma way of working.

• INNOVATION+: Archroma brings together science, our technological expertise and in-depth market, customer, and regulatory knowledge to create groundbreaking solutions that have a positive environmental impact. To accelerate the shift to a circular economy and help manufacturers use resources more efficiently, Archroma’s research and development teams across Americas, Asia and Europe focus on innovating for cleaner chemistry and durable effects.
• COMMUNICATION+: By providing authentic, fact-based information to all stakeholders, Archroma helps improve transparency across the value chain. This enables mills and brands to communicate their sustainability goals and achievements with confidence and navigate issues like regulatory complexity and consumer skepticism.

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), a leader in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, supplies down to NEMO Equipment’s GOOD DESIGN Sustainability Award-winning, fully recyclable Endless Promise® down sleeping bag collection.

AF+D is supplying down for NEMO’s Disco and Riff down sleeping bags. When these bags reach the end of their lifespan, they will be returned to ALLIED. After removing, cleaning, and reviving the down, ALLIED will incorporate the insulation into its RENU:TRACE offering, the world’s first and only fully traceable recycled down.

“Recyclable and naturally biodegradable, down is one of the most sustainable insulations on the planet and plays an important role in a circular economy,” said Daniel Uretsky, President with ALLIED. “We launched our RENU:TRACE recycled down program in 2022 as a way to recycle down in a closed loop, the only way to ensure this recycled material is 100% traceable and ethically sourced. We are proud to partner with NEMO on this award-winning collection.”

All ALLIED down is 100% ethically sourced and traceable back to the region where it was produced, and unless traceable down is both sourced and recycled in a closed loop, it is virtually impossible to ensure that any recycled down comes from purely ethical sources. Before RENU:TRACE, brands had to make a decision to either focus on post-consumer recycled material OR ethically treated animals.
 
While NEMO is the first to participate, the RENU:TRACE program is available to all of ALLIED’s partner brands.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), supported by its Insight Partner, Maersk, has released a new report, Reverse Logistics for Circular Fashion Systems. The report expands on how fashion brands, retailers, value chain partners, and logistics providers can leverage reverse logistics to cultivate an effective and holistic circular fashion system.

The publication is the culmination of extensive research, including consultations with and input from eight experts from eight brands and organisations - Maersk, Nike, H&M Group, Target, PUMA Group, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, VF Corporation, and Circle Economy Foundation. It highlights the critical role of logistics in supporting fashion companies to adopt more circular systems by managing the reverse flow of materials and products from end-users, and returning them back into the system for resale, remaking or recycling, extending their lifecycle, maximising value, and minimising waste.

Over 520 global regulations are currently in place, urging companies to rethink their sourcing and design strategies, emphasising regionalisation and circularity. Moreover 45% of brands surveyed by Global Fashion Agenda and the United Nations Environment Programme earlier this year reported that they have set targets to derive at least 10% of their revenue from circular business models by 2040. However, despite the potential, the fashion industry lacks a comprehensive system for circularity, with current fragmented approaches failing to achieve commercial viability. Deeper collaboration with logistics partners can support more streamlined operations, while aiding compliance with tightening regulatory requirements and in demonstrating positive environmental impacts.

To guide stakeholders, the publication outlines essential elements for implementing effective reverse logistics, including:

• Network design: Expanding reverse logistics beyond consumer returns to capture and valorise post-industrial textile waste flows and unsold goods.
• Financial ownership: Establishing clear financial models to define roles, responsibilities, and profit-sharing, enhancing collaboration and investment.
• Boosting collection volumes: Developing infrastructure for efficient collection and processing of textile waste, essential for scaling solutions and reducing recycled fibre costs.

Archroma, specialist in chemicals towards sustainable solutions, Kipaş Denim, a Turkish company with a focus on integrated textile production, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, are collaborating to pioneer a new denim finishing process for enhanced aesthetic appeal and greater sustainability.

Combining their advanced technologies, the three textile innovators are behind the launch of Kipaş Denim’s new Contra Denim concept – a breakthrough in denim dyeing and finishing that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and designs effects, including intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Denim has traditionally been challenging to produce, especially for black and indigo fabric with a worn or distressed look, requiring significant water usage, harmful chemicals and intensive manual labor. The Contra Denim collection is laser- and laundry-friendly, with colors that are deep and durable. Stunning wash-down vintage effects and high contrasts are achieved via washing or laser techniques.

Contra Denim is based on Archroma’s DENIM HALO, a new approach to denim production that incorporates resource-saving pretreatment that includes DIRSOL® RD and dyeing processes to produce easy-wash laser-friendly denim. It delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to the industry-standard denim finishing process while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

The Contra Denim’s vintage looks are achieved with advanced laser marking technology from Jeanologia. Thanks to the combination of Archroma and Jeanologia technologies, manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying harmful for workers and the environment are completely eliminated.

Fernando Cardona, Brain Box Team Manager, Jeanologia, said: “As a purpose-driven textile technology company, we take pride in working with partners to accompany them through their transformational processes. We are delighted to work with industry leaders such as Archroma and Kipaş Denim, who are at the forefront of responsible denim production.”

Initially producing a ContraBlack Denim collection, Kipaş Denim has now extended the Contra line to classic indigo and other colors from the DIRESUL® RDT range.

The ContraBlack collection earned a Jeanologia Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score of 11 on stone wash versus the ring dyeing market standard score of 67. This confirms the low impact of the ContraBlack range in both water and energy consumption, chemical impact and workers’ health.

Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, has published a white paper that details how the organization’s Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM) can help companies meet their regulatory reporting obligations under European Union (EU) law. The paper, titled “How the Higg BRM Supports CSRD Reporting Obligations,” speaks specifically to how the tool is continually evolving to support companies in meeting their regulatory reporting requirements under the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD).

In the face of today’s challenging and ever-changing legislative landscape, brands and retailers require reliable tools to support them in meeting compliance requirements. The Higg BRM is the leading framework specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear industry designed for brands and retailers to evaluate, assess, and improve Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) performance. The tool assesses 11 critical impact areas along global value chains to foster a holistic approach to sustainability, and is available on Worldly, a sustainability data and insights platform.

The Higg BRM has evolved to assist brands and retailers in fulfilling reporting obligations, while also supporting companies in the development of consistent corporate sustainability strategies to streamline efforts and reduce redundancy across sustainability initiatives. Beginning in 2024, Cascale conducted a thorough analysis of the European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS), which provides specific guidance on how companies should report on sustainability. Cascale mapped how the standards align with the Higg BRM, offering a clear pathway for organizations aiming to comply with ESRS. As detailed in the white paper, there is a 65 percent content overlap between the ESRS and the Higg BRM.

While the Higg BRM aligns broadly with ESRS on sustainability topics, it also delves deeper into issues that are specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear sector. This focus on sector-specific material issues ensures Higg BRM users can expect a comprehensive tool that not only meets general reporting requirements but also emphasizes the nuances and priorities unique to the industry.

Cascale is currently hosting an ongoing webinar series titled “Navigating Legislation & the Higg Index,” which highlights how the Higg Index tools serve as a valuable resource and can offer specific guidance on reporting requirements. The most recent webinar, co-hosted by Cascale and Worldly, provided an in-depth discussion on how the Higg BRM intersects with key pieces of legislation at the EU level, such as the CSRD.

Cascale is committed to continuously evolving, updating, and refining the Higg Index to meet the needs of its members, Higg Index users, and the industry. In collaboration with Worldly, the Higg BRM will be further refined to enhance alignment with the CSRD and other relevant regulations. By identifying and bridging gaps, the Higg BRM continues to support stakeholders in achieving a more structured and transparent approach to sustainability reporting.

Europe’s responsible sourcing shows Source Home & Gift and Source Fashion have announced an Intelligence Series partnership with Retail 100 to provide guidance and insights into international sourcing.

Recorded in partnership with Retail 100 in the Source studios, the ‘Intelligence Series’ is designed to provide valuable insights and practical tips to help navigate the dynamic world of home and gift sourcing.

With over 100 years of retail experience, Retail 100 provides international expertise and knowledge ranging across the retail sector including fashion, homeware, gifting, toys, seasonal, garden, and beauty. The strategic and collaborative partnership across the Source portfolio of shows, kicks off with a beginner’s guide to sourcing followed by a series of videos covering eight key sourcing regions.

In the first video, ‘A Beginners Guide to Sourcing’ join ex-John Lewis buyers Anna Berry and Sara Allbright from Retail 100 for an in-depth dive into sourcing including where to start, how to plan your sourcing routes, how to create a critical path, as well as country choice, navigating shipping, sustainable and responsible sourcing, visas and travel tips.

The ‘Sourcing Intelligence - Country Focus’ videos explore the unique aspects of sourcing home and gift materials from around the globe. Each video highlights the distinct characteristics, challenges, and opportunities of sourcing in different countries including Turkey, India, Africa, Bangladesh, China Pakistan and Portugal offering valuable insights and expert knowledge to make informed and strategic sourcing decisions.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited announces its role in the T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project. This initiative aims to establish a harmonized EU blueprint for the closed-loop sorting and recycling of household textile waste to help the fashion industry transition towards a more circular and sustainable future. By bringing together key stakeholders across the entire value chain, the project positions itself at the forefront of sustainable innovation.

The designated spinning partner, Indorama Ventures, will process the chemical recycled feedstock into polyester yarns and fibers through the extrusion process, ensuring the elimination of impurities. The company’s participation in the project also aligns with its goals of driving the circular economy and circular fashion industry through PET recycling and supply of recycled materials, underscoring its commitment to sustainability.

The T-REX Project launched with the aim of creating a harmonised blueprint which will support the creation of a circular system for post-consumer textile waste within Europe. The EU funded project brings together a consortium of 13 major players from across the entire value chain along with research institutes to transform end-of-use textiles from waste into valuable feedstock and a commodity for new business models that can be adopted at scale.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions announced the launch of its newly revamped website. Designed to deliver a seamless and engaging browsing experience for all, the site now caters more effectively to the company’s brand partners and its growing base of direct consumers. It also makes it easier for users to discover the Polartec performance guarantee.

The new website features a fresh new look and feel, along with significant enhancements to improve the user experience. With a strong emphasis on accessibility and user engagement, the revised site ensures that visitors can quickly find the information they need, whenever and wherever they want it. Key features include:

• Modern Design and Structure: The site’s intuitive navigation and streamlined design allow our users to access vital information quickly and easily from any entry point.
• Dynamic Animation: Integrated modern animation enhances engagement and facilitates the interactive and highly enjoyable browsing experience.
• Optimized Content: Overhauled and strategically optimized for SEO, the new content reflects our refreshed positioning while ensuring high visibility in search engine results.

Just as Polartec is dedicated to pushing the boundaries of textile innovation while prioritizing the planet, the new navigation menu reflects this commitment by ensuring fast, easy access to primary sections and important information. And, by highlighting sustainable practices, groundbreaking fabrics and exclusive textile technologies, the new website meets the needs of renowned sportswear apparel companies, top-tier athletes and everyday users alike.

• Fabrics: Explore Polartec’s extensive range of high-performance fabrics.
• Sustainability: Learn about Polartec’s commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices.
• Brands: The newly named Products section features our partner brands and their products
• News: Stay up to date with the latest information and company news.
• About Us: Gain insights into Polartec’s company values and mission.

Today more than ever, sustainability in the fashion sector is an imperative that is reshaping the dynamics of the sector. These are important changes driven both by increasing CSR regulations (for example, Business of Fashion revealed that, according to 87% of players, the new regulations will impact their company in 2024), and by consumers’ habits (increasingly sensitive to the topic and consequently more careful in purchasing choices). In this scenario, Lectra analyzed real-time data from Retviews – its artificial intelligence-based solution specialized in competitive intelligence and automatic benchmarking – and unveils how Retviews’ empowers brands to navigate the complexities of sustainable and optimized collection planning.

According to Retviews data, to face sustainability challenges and best orient in the current complex fashion landscape, it will be crucial for brands to keep 5 key indications in mind:

1. Planning sustainable collections
Faced with the new regulations, brands are called to rethink their strategies, without losing sight on performance. For this reason, brands are already moving to optimize and rationalize the creative processes of their collections with a view to sustainability. In particular, Retviews' real-time data analysis reveals a growing trend towards sustainability in the collections of leading brands, where there are important investments in sustainable fabrics for both upper and lower garments. In particular, in the "Top" section, shirts show the most significant growth year over year among the eco-responsible options.

2. Sustainable prices (in every sense)
In this context, the redefinition of prices requires a strategic balance between market dynamics and the consumer's willingness to pay for products redesigned in terms of CSR. Retviews data shows a significant increase in costs in sustainable top collections. However, has this shift affected stock levels?

3. Inventories: optimized management
Tracking stock levels is crucial to season management, as it helps identify best-selling items and trends, as well as identify which items would sell better at full price versus those that should be discounted.
The new premium prices for sustainable collections require optimization of the sales rate, a waste limitation to minimum and a reduction of unsold goods rate.
Analyzing the tops category - In the tops category, where sustainably made products prevail with significantly higher price points than generic tops, Retviews' real-time data reveals that sustainable collections boast a higher sell-out rate compared to non-sustainable products. This superior sell-out rate underscores consumers' willingness to pay a premium for sustainability

4. Traceability and certification of collections
Certification is essential in verifying sustainability claims, fosters trust and ensures compliance. Not only that, it is also important to understand the value of the certifications and which ones appear most frequently in the various markets so as to make targeted decisions and adapt the assortments accordingly. This also let brands to prioritize the right mix of fabrics that can reflect the desires of local consumers. Retviews data highlights a particular focus on “Recycled Claim Standard” (RCS) certification in Europe and on “Fair Trade” and “Good Cashmere Standard” certified garments in the United States.

5. Mix of sustainable fabrics
About environmental impact, fabrics also play a fundamental role. Through data-driven tools, brands are able to find valuable information on sustainable materials that are gaining tractions in collections and thus make informed and strategic decisions in the process of planning their creations.

The Circular Valley Convention is a new trade fair format organised by Messe Düsseldorf in cooperation with the non-profit Circular Valley Foundation and with scientific support from the renowned Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology called UMSICHT.

The convention looks at the circular economy from a holistic perspective: across industries and materials – and all phases of the circular economy, from smart circular design to the reuse and further utilisation of products.

As a central global platform for the circular economy, it brings together decision-makers and experts from business, academia, politics, and society in one place. Under the motto "Uniting Industries for a Circular Tomorrow", it promotes their networking in order to present and jointly develop circular solutions and processes and drive forward the transformation towards a circular economy.

Messe Düsseldorf is contributing its many years of expertise to the Circular Valley Convention stemming from a wide range of trade fairs such as K, interpack and drupa, which are closely related to the circular economy. The non-profit Circular Valley Foundation, the cooperation partner of the convention, has a comprehensive understanding of the circular economy and a large network. The scientific support provided by the Fraunhofer Institute for Environmental, Safety, and Energy Technology UMSICHT and the associated expertise round off the extensive professional support.

The Circular Valley Convention covers all phases of the circular economy: from the use of renewable raw materials to product design, manufacturing, logistics, and operations all the way through to collection, sorting, and recycling, featuring solutions for different material classes and value chains. The convention combines applied research and practice and is a content hub for top decision-makers and experts. With the guiding theme "Enabling Circular Economy", the focus is on three central topics that enable the transformation towards a circular economy:

• Enabling Value Chains: the implementation of efficient, sustainable, and cross-industry circular solution strategies to maximise the use of resources and make business models fit for the future.
• Enabling Technologies: the transfer of circular competencies such as redesign, refurbish, remanufacture & recycle. The goal is to optimise products and processes using technologies that comply with the principles of the circular economy.
• Enabling Materials: the promotion of the efficient use and recycling of various materials, aiming for the extension of product lifespans and the integration of cross-material circular strategies for the sustainable use of resources.

the Circular Valley Convention offers a three-part event format consisting of a conference, an expo, and a networking event on the evening of 12 March 2024. Over 100 high-calibre speakers are scheduled to attend the conference. More than 130 exhibitors and partners are expected to attend the expo, the marketplace for future-oriented circular solutions, which offers insights into new trends, innovations, and best practice examples.