From the Sector

Sateri’s Lyocell facility in Rizhao, Shandong Province, has been awarded the Sustainable Textile Production (STeP) certification for responsible production, making it the first Lyocell producer in China to be certified to the rigorous standards set by independent Swiss-based certification organisation OEKO-TEX®. Sateri’s Lyocell facility has also obtained the highest ranking of level three in the certification assessment scoring for exemplary implementation of best manufacturing practices.

Together with its earlier achievement of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification that confirms its Lyocell fibre is free from any harmful substances and complies with European standards, Sateri’s lyocell products are qualified to carry the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® product label. This label not only attests to Sateri’s Lyocell fibre as safe and manufactured in environmentally-friendly, socially responsible and safe facility, but also the Group’s commitment to higher levels of transparency and accountability through the product traceability feature of the label.

The STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification comprises three levels describing the extent to which a company has achieved sustainable production and working conditions of factories in the textile industry. The areas of assessment include chemicals management, environmental performance, environmental management, social responsibility, quality management, as well as occupational health and safety.

Sateri’s Lyocell fiber factory in Rizhao commenced operation in May 2020, with an annual output of 20,000 tonnes of Lyocell fiber. The same site houses a 5,000 tonne Lyocell pilot production line dedicated for the development of Lyocell application technology. In March 2021, the Group announced plans to expand its Lyocell annual production capacity in China up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025.

A natural and biodegradable fibre, Sateri’s Lyocell is made from wood pulp sourced from certified and sustainable plantations. It is manufactured using closed-loop technology, requiring minimal chemical input during the production process, and utilising an organic solvent that can be almost fully (99.7%) recovered and recycled.

Sateri’s Lyocell is used to produce high quality textiles and personal hygiene materials. Using a unique high technology manufacturing process, it has outstanding dry and wet strength, high uniformity and consistency, and superior quality. It blends well with various textile fibres to create different fabric styles and characteristics for wide downstream applications.

• Focus now on digital fair platform

The PERFORMANCE DAYS team regrets having to cancel at short notice the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS which was scheduled to take place on December 1-2, 2021 at the Messe München exhibition center. Right up until today, the event organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS were in the final stages of preparations for the fair. The goal of being able to realize a fully booked fair with a portfolio like in pre-pandemic times seemed to be within reach. The political regulations agreed in Bavaria from November 19, 2021 and the heavily restricted constraints associated with an incidence of 1000 have far-reaching consequences for PERFORMANCE DAYS. As a result of the current sharp rise in the number of infections in Munich, the planned winter edition must now be cancelled as a precaution. The focus now is now completely on the digital fair on December 1 and 2, 2021.

The new measures are scheduled to come into effect in Munich from the middle of this week, which would lead to very short-term changes. The organizers of PERFORMANCE DAYS therefore see themselves in the responsibility to enable a minimum of planning security as well as a responsible handling of the given situation with this decision.

“Exceptional situations require exceptional decisions – making these all the more difficult. After experiencing a very successful and surprisingly well-attended fair with the Functional Fabric Fair by PERFORMANCE DAYS in Portland, Oregon last week, we have tried everything possible up to the last moment and firmly believed that we would finally set a further positive milestone with the physical edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich. We fulfilled all the requirements, updated our hygiene concept several times to comply with the dynamically changing measures and took all the necessary precautions for a safe event. Unfortunately, current developments do not allow us to host the trade fair event next week, since the undisputed top priority is the protection and health of our visitors. Now our focus turns to the full implementation of the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021”, explains Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS

Focus on digital platform
The PERFORMANCE DAYS team is now investing all its efforts into implementing the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021. As part of THE LOOP, those interested have the opportunity as of now to view online the fabric innovations and news for the Winter Season 2023/24, this year’s Focus Topic “Sustainable Nylon” and the latest color trends. In the Marketplace, visitors will be able to view the numerous exhibitor products, including the PERFORMANCE FORUM’s curated sustainable fabric highlights. In order to present the fabrics to visitors as realistically as possible in terms of feel, design and structure in digital form, the PERFORMANCE FORUM has been equipped with new 3D-technology, including innovative tools such as 3D images, video animations and downloadable U3M files. Throughout the Digital Fair, exhibitors and fair visitors can look forward to extensive networking opportunities. For example, as part of the extensive digital supporting program on December 1, with various expert talks, discussion rounds and speakers via livestream, moderated by Charles Ross live from the studio. On December 2, the “sustain & innovate” conference on this year’s Focus Topic “The Sustainable Future of Nylon” will kick off with discussions and panels, moderated by Astrid Schlüchter, Editor-in-Chief of SAZsport and SPORTSFASHION by saz.  

A very special thank you goes out to the entire PERFORMANCE DAYS community with its exhibitors, visitors and partners for their active support, trust, loyalty and understanding in these still extraordinary times. The team looks forward to the Digital Fair on December 1 and 2, 2021 and further ahead to meeting you all personally on April 27 and 28, 2022 at the summer edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS live in Munich.

For its 2021 Green Collection, the Italian luxury hosiery brand Sarah Borghi presents a broadened product offer in terms of colors and categories, meeting the needs of a stylish, yet sustainable consumer. By mixing fashion, quality, innovation and research, the tights and stockings powerhouse continues its development in the journey towards a conscious future.

The evolution of the Green Collection, the sustainable hosiery collection first launched in 2020, confirms the efforts of the brand in promoting a new generation of attractive fashion and design which actively encourages and supports a responsible change in culture and smart products offer.

Lately, a decisive step has been added to the brand’s history thanks to the publication of the Integrated Report by Gizeta Calze, Sarah Borghi’s top-notch producer and first Italian company in the hosiery sector to include sustainability throughout its business model. A commitment of responsibility and transparency on a path that has been carried on for years and that, today more than ever, becomes of the utmost importance, as stated by Luca Marzocchi, CEO of Gizeta Calze. The Integrated Report provides a complete view of the business strategy, operating model and governance, which combines financial information with sustainability insights, conceived as complementary to other strategies and, indeed, essential for increasing business value.

The collection
The collection presents a range of versatile, colorful products combined with extra-luxury comfort and designed for every type of woman: from seductive tights to everyday socks, together with knee- highs, up to athleisure with leggings.
 
The responsible collection features two new generation materials. One is Amni Soul Eco®, the world’s first biodegradable in anaerobic conditions polyamide 6.6 yarn that degrades in around 5 years* after disposing of in landfill, developed by SOLVAY and produced and distributed by FULGAR. The other is ROICA™ V550 by leading fiber manufacturer Asahi Kasei, a premium sustainable stretch yarn boasting the Gold Level Material Health Certificate by Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute** as it has been evaluated for impact on human and environmental health. Moreover, it smartly breaks down without releasing harmful substances in the environment according to Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certification. Key elements that makes ROICA™ V550 a precious choice when it comes to Circular Economy material approach.

RadiciGroup is exhibiting at the A+A trade fair, an international event focusing on safety solutions for the workplace, to be held in Dusseldorf, Germany, from 26 to 29 October. This international show gives RadiciGroup the opportunity to present its latest developments in personal protective equipment (PPE) for industrial use, including coveralls, gowns, caps, full hoods, shoe covers and boots.

This international show gives RadiciGroup the opportunity to present its latest developments in  personal protective equipment (PPE) for industrial use, including coveralls, gowns, caps, full hoods, shoe covers and boots. These products are part of a new line, Radipeople, a trade name identifying the new protective workwear sold by RadiciGroup: end products of a traceable supply chain, in which special attention is paid to the choice of raw materials and the quality of the final products offered the market.

At RadiciGroup, care for the health and safety of people is one of the pillars of the Group's sustainability strategy, combined with a strong commitment to safeguarding the environment. Radipeople Eco, the first protective coverall with 100% end-of-life recyclability is proof of such commitment. All parts of Radipeople Eco: the fabric, lamination, zipper and thread are made of the same material, 100% polypropylene. Furthermore, the Group’s offering includes garments made with Respunsible®, a spundbond obtained from recycled polypropylene or materials certified under the ISCC Plus scheme.

Thanks to their versatility and technical characteristics, the nonwoven solutions proposed by RadiciGroup are suitable for many industrial sectors, including oil and gas, utilities, construction, food, automotive painting and shipbuilding, maintenance, agriculture, laboratories, microprocessor manufacturing and the pharmaceutical and chemical industries.

Radipeople personal protective equipment delivers excellent protection against external agents (liquids, splashes, jets, particles and sprays), high protection against biological hazards and infectious agents, and high robustness and lightness to optimize protection, on the one hand, and comfort, on the other. All Radipeople protective equipment is made of fully traceable materials, manufactured by a totally Italian production chain involving hundreds of workers, and sold in packaging designed with an ecodesign approach, that is, fully recyclable minimized packaging.

The Swiss group presents three creative inspirations to explore new shapes, colors, materials and define a new offer featuring a variety of solutions and ideas.
A tribute to health and to balance with nature, to the advanced goldsmith craftsmanship and to the effortless sophistication of industrial luxury: the FW 2022-23 collection by Riri Group is a true kaleidoscope of shapes, colors and materials, where three different creative inspirations meet – Biophilic, Stones&Gold and Industrial Luxe – for a high-end line of accessories.

All three paths are the result of state-of-the-art techniques, of an R&D effort and of the renowned expertise of the Swiss group. Part of the offer is also a selection of pieces by Cobrax Metal Hub, among which stand out buckles and locks with peculiar shapes and finishing.

Looking to the new season with a positive and enthusiastic attitude, the Group continues to work towards an increasing sustainability when it comes to products and processes. The collection, in fact, is a further step toward Riri’s path of green responsibility that the company has taken to bring actual improvement in its sustainable performance. This year, Riri Group published its first Sustainability Report, calculated in compliance with Global Reporting Initiative Standard (GRI), and adopted recycled polyester as production standard for zips’ tapes.

Biophilic
A way to honor love for life, this line emphasizes the importance of physical and mental wellbeing, answering the questions raised during the challenges faced in the last year. Balance with nature becomes a concrete product circularity operation resorting to manufacturing processes with a low environmental impact and to organic and biodegradable materials. Among them stands out recycled polyester for zips which is Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, Global Organic Textile Standard certified organic cotton and other alternative fibers, such as nettle, a natural resource that is a great alternative to synthetic fibers. Rivets, zips, buttons and metal components are made of stainless steel, which guarantees durability and resistance, 100% recycled copper and aluminum – light, ductile and resistant to oxidation. Among the most interesting solutions are rice peel powder – used on buttons’ overseals – and eco-sustainable thermoplastic polyurethane, obtained from renewable raw sources.

Stones & Gold
Sophistication and advanced craftsmanship mark the pieces of this creative path which, inspired by goldsmith and glyptic craft tradition, reveals a delicate sense of positivity and richness. Gems, lapis lazuli, marble, and mother-of-pearl are protagonists of a refined selection of accessories designed to amaze and catch the eye, resembling actual jewels. Essential the use of gold, especially in its liquid form: dominating zips and buttons’ finishes, this precious and versatile metal becomes a decorative feature on printed tape.

Industrial luxe
The third proposal embodies the unique style and timeless elegance that have always defined Riri’s products, embellishing them with new engineering details which makes them very relevant. The accessories come with golden and black finishes, both glossy and matt, and explore shapes developed to bring life to a range of luxury accessories with a sophisticated industrial aesthetics. A dominating role goes to stainless steel, along with a selection of impactful and elegant tapes which includes jacquard options, for a retro-futuristic look that is revealed also through the use of mechanical elements, such as screws and etched metal sheets, and in the clean and boxy shapes of pullers and buttons.

Royal DSM, a global science-based company in Nutrition, Health and Sustainable Living, confirmed the introduction of the first seamless trail running shoe made with bio-based Dyneema® fiber by norda™, a Canadian shoe brand.

Designed for runners by runners, norda™ was founded under the mission to empower athletes to unlock their peak potential through innovation and cutting-edge technology. The brand’s flagship product, norda™001, utilizes bio-based Dyneema® fiber to enhance performance and sustainability in a lightweight construction.

The shoe upper is seamlessly constructed with Dyneema® fabric, which benefits from the intrinsic properties of Dyneema®, the world’s strongest fiber™. Dyneema® fiber is engineered at the molecular level to provide high strength, low weight, waterproof and breathable properties – fusing the technical performance of ultra-light materials with aesthetic design that does not sacrifice strength or durability.

In addition to the increased foot stability and wearer comfort of the upper, Dyneema® fibers are also used to increase abrasion resistance and stretch in the shoe laces – providing four times the level of strength when compared to standard lace materials like nylon and polyester.

“When we set out to create the norda™ 001, our mission was to design an ultra-strong and durable high performance trail running shoe, and do it as sustainably as possible,” states Willamina and Nick Martire, Co-Founders, norda™. “To achieve our goal, we had to look outside of the standard materials used by the footwear industry. We realized the properties of bio-based Dyneema® beat everything available today.”

In line with DSM’s commitment to protect people and the environment they live in, bio-based Dyneema® boasts the same exact performance as conventional Dyneema® with a carbon footprint that is 90 percent lower than generic HMPE. Sourced from renewable, bio-based feedstock, DSM’s latest advancement in fiber technology uses the mass balance approach to further reduce the reliance on fossil fuel based resources, while still contributing to a more circular economy.

• ANDRITZ receives an additional order for a high-speed spunlace line from Zhejiang Kingsafe, China

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order from Zhejiang Kingsafe Hygiene Materials Technology Co., Ltd. in Hezhou, China, to supply a complete new neXline spunlace line. The line is scheduled for installation and start-up during the second quarter of 2022.

This high-capacity spunlace eXcelle line will process either 100% biodegradable fibers or blends of polyester and viscose. It is dedicated to the production of hygiene and medical fabrics. The final products will have fabric weights ranging from 30 to 100 gsm, and the annual production capacity will be up to 18,000 tons.

ANDRITZ will deliver a complete line, from web forming to drying, also integrating two high-speed TT cards, the well-known JetlaceEssentiel hydroentanglement unit and the neXdry through-air dryer equipped with a neXecodry S1 system for energy saving. This combination is becoming the market benchmark for the production of lightweight spunlace fabrics dedicated to the hygiene market.

“We are proud to operate ANDRITZ nonwoven lines, which are very reliable and efficient. It helps us a lot in producing top-of-the-range, nonwoven roll goods, thus enabling us to be recognized as a key player among nonwovens producers worldwide,” says Kingsafe’s president, Mr. Huarong Yan.

Zhejiang Kingsafe Hygiene Materials Technology Co., Ltd., founded in 1987, is one of the largest companies in China producing spunlace and spunbond nonwoven roll goods, with several spunlace lines already in operation. The final products are exported all over the world and used in many fields, such as the medical sector, health care, high-tech agriculture, and high-quality consumer and household products.

The new line is now the ninth spunlace line supplied by ANDRITZ and the third with high-speed TT cards, thus confirming the successful, long-term partnership between ANDRITZ and Zhejiang Kingsafe. The order also proves that the solution provided by ANDRITZ is recognized as the benchmark for production of premium spunlace roll goods and contains the perfect combination for wipes converting machines.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Jeanologia, a world leader in sustainable and efficient technology development, today announced the launch of ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’, a water-saving dyeing process at room temperature for casual looks.

Archroma initially introduced its eco-advanced Pad-Ox dyeing process for woven fabrics, and then used it as part of its ADVANCED DENIM concept. By combining the oxidation and fixation steps, it is possible to shorten the dyeing process and thus realize substantial resource savings in water, wastewater, cotton waste, and energy.

Over the years the company has worked with its textile manufacturers and partners to improve the Pad-Ox process, in particular woven applications such as chinos and casual wear. To achieve maximum positive impact, Archroma is using its Diresul® range of low sulfide sulfur dyes and, more recently, its innovative plant-based range of EarthColors®. A wide selection of dyes from these two ranges have received the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute’s Platinum Level Material Health Certification.

Meanwhile, Jeanologia has been working on the technology side, with laser and eco-finishing solutions for more than 25 years, accompanying the textile industry on their way to producing with zero discharge. In 2008, the company introduced its G2 Dynamic the first ozone treatment for continuous fabric that dramatically reduces the amount of water and chemicals used, while at the same time saving costs at the mill and eventually at the garment finishing facilities. This technology makes fabric more stable and consistent and prepares the fabric better for the use of other technologies like laser. This machinery can be used along with Pad-Ox technology to help cleaning fabric thus improve fastness results. While it allows process to work at room temperature.

Project focus on water saving
Archroma and Jeanologia therefore understandably decided to team up and combine their expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing technologies. The objective of the project was to improve the Pad-Ox dyeing process even further, in particular in one area that still offered room for positive impact: temperature and fastnesses.

The new ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’ dyeing process works thanks to the insertion of very small machinery into the existing finishing range process, using cold processing and thus operating with much less water, carbon footprint and energy than traditional benchmark fabric finishing processes, whilst retaining the water and other resource savings offered by the Pad-Ox technology.

Maximum savings can be achieved by mills and garment manufacturers who wish to switch from a conventional dyeing process straight to ‘Pad -Ox G2 Cold’ to obtain high quality fabrics for comfortable and casual wear.

• C.L.A.S.S. launches the Manifesto for Responsible Fashion and kicks off the CALL TO ACTION of C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021
• What does it mean to be a “game changer” in green fashion?
• What are the false myths of eco-fashion and what are the guidelines for innovating while safeguarding the planet? And how do you tell the story behind a sustainable fashion collection?

An annual competition to reward a visionary creative who combines design, responsible innovation and communication, capable of raising contemporary consumer awareness of the new values of sustainable fashion. This is the Call to Action launched to find the C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 by Giusy Bettoni of C.L.A.S.S. in the Smart Voices panel "C.L.A.S.S. ICON: Award and Manifesto for Responsible Fashion", moderated by the green journalist Diana de Marsanich, and starring, on the 10th February, the fashion designer Gilberto Calzolari, recipient of the international award for creative visionaries in the world of fashion C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award 2020, and Federico Poletti, Marketing and Communication Director of WHITE SHOW.

C.L.A.S.S. Manifesto  

During the Smart Voice, the C.L.A.S.S. Manifesto for Responsible Fashion, the 2021 edition of the C.L.A.S.S. ICON competition and the Sustainability Formula were presented.

C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award is an international award for visionary creatives in the fashion world who are able to convey the values of sustainability not only to fashion professionals, but also to the wider public: consumers. "We created C.L.A.S.S. ICON to reward visionary designers who create their collections by combining design, innovation and responsibility and who are able to communicate the values behind their garments authentically and effectively to consumers. It's time for storymaking and storytelling to align, otherwise it's just greenwashing" says Giusy Bettoni.

From 15th of February to 15th of April it will be possible to apply by sending an email to classicon@classecohub.org, with a description and objectives of the brand, the sustainability values adopted and the strategy, the designer's profile, a photo-video story of the latest collection, and any previous awards won (all info on http://www.classecohub.org).

During the panel, designer Gilberto Calzolari, the first winner of the first C.L.A.S.S. ICON Award, shared his vision for responsible fashion and his current projects. "My brand is a laboratory of experimentation. I create fashion to open conversations and change the way people behave and think. My creativity, from the choice of fabrics and processes to the image I decide to communicate, are the weapons at my disposal. Since the beginning, I have been really excited to team up with C.L.A.S.S. in order to share a common and challenging journey, with the perspective to be part of a constantly growing network activating mutual support. I have always thought at my collections as a call to action for a better future and now more than ever my mission as C.L.A.S.S. ICON is to make people understand that commitment and sustainability can and must go hand in hand with beauty and elegance. The adage 'kalòs kai agathòs' is one of the classical teachings that should never be forgotten: aesthetics, in my opinion, is inseparable from ethics. That's why I don't just target professionals, but also the end consumer, fashionistas and beyond" says Gilberto.

"For the first edition of C.L.A.S.S. ICON in 2020 Gilberto was decreed as our chosen one, and the path together was sanctioned at that moment: the sharing of values and visions is an indissoluble bond that keeps us united over time. Like Gilberto, each ICON will be part of a community where together with C.L.A.S.S. will try to make a real smart fashion and above all create an important voice," says Giusy Bettoni.

In support of the C.L.A.S.S. ICON award, C.L.A.S.S. presented its Manifesto for Responsible Fashion, which summarises the values that C.L.A.S.S. has been researching, communicating and developing since 2007: the role of the ethical company and its transparent production, the importance of traceable and healthy products, with total respect for people and the environment. A commitment to a circular economy with a positive impact that also means safeguarding the seas, the ocean, the use of water, energy and resources.

"A Manifesto for fashion with the lowest possible impact on the planet and on people and animals’ health thanks to responsible innovation, perfectly up to the challenges of contemporary lifestyle. This is why I created the Sustainability Formula, which only exists when there is design, responsible innovation and we are able to track and measure the impact of products and processes and communicate the new values in an appropriate way. In a word, when there is knowledge" concludes Giusy Bettoni.
 
F = D x I x S x C
F= Fashion
D=Design
S=Sustainability
C=Communication

• Miles Johnson and ISKO’s Creative Room present the new responsible collection.

The second edition of this partnership tells the story of a unique combination of creativity and expertise brought to the table by ISKO’s style and design center, Creative Room Italy, and the innovative designer Miles Johnson, resulting in a collection featuring responsible R-TWO™ fabrics and a selection of sustainable accessories and details.

An act of care for the planet and its people, Light on the Land 2.0 is the new capsule designed by Miles Johnson and ISKO. Former Design Director at Levi Strauss & Co. and Senior Creative Director of Product Design and Development at Patagonia, Inc., Miles joined forces with Creative Room and Iskoteca, ISKO’s Italian style and washing research hubs, to develop a collection that brings responsibility in the fashion industry to the next level.

The project includes 32 unique pieces, each of them realized with seasonless designs and sustainably-minded details. All the fabrics used in the collection were carefully selected from ISKO’s R-TWO™ platform. Using a mixture of reused cotton and recycled fibers, the technique embeds material circularity into the production processes, designing waste out of the system and minimizing impact at scale. Certified to Textile Exchange environmental credentials according to the percentage of materials contained, R-TWO™ ensures better use of raw materials and resource efficiency. ISKO’s Environmental Product Declarations (EPD®s), available for all its +25,000 products, offer a unique opportunity to measure the impact of R-TWO™’s savings in the Lifecycle Assessments (LCAs) framework, where resource savings can be seen in carbon impact, water-use reductions and many other impact KPIs.

Light on the Land 2.0 incorporates responsible design principles such as Cadica’s new and innovative trims, made of vegan apple “leather”, and has been developed using ecoconscious finishing techniques. The collection also features many additional sustainable facets such as efficient low-waste pattern cutting and design, efficient sewing methods, removeable rivets for end-of-life and biodegradable thread which can be removed at high heats.

“When we first started working on this project, we knew it was going to be amazing,” explained Massimo Munari, Manager and Art director Creative Room, ISKO. “To design a collection like this, you need to begin with the right mindset and of course, the right materials. R-TWO was the perfect ingredient, thanks to the re-used and re-cycled content. We then aimed to minimize impact at all stages: incorporating sustainable design ideas, washing processes and trims. We are proud to have created such an inspiring, and sustainable collection, and to bring our collective vision to light.”

Due to the unprecedented challenges of this time, the collection was entirely developed through remote working and creative solutions to ensure the safety and health of all parties involved. To this end, everyone was kept safe thanks to ISKO Vital™+ reusable and eco-friendly face covers, created with organic cotton to cater for comfort and sustainability.