From the Sector

• HIGHER, FASTER, FURTHER ! During the first physical Frankfurt Fashion Week in January 2022, PREMIUM GROUP will show more novelties than ever.

The anticipation is rising! With the actual move to Frankfurt in January 2022, Anita Tillmann, Jörg Arntz and the teams will not only present further developed versions of the PREMIUM and SEEK fashion fairs, but will also celebrate a major B2C festival for the first time with THE GROUND.

More than ever, the Berliners‘ passion for people and fashion, but also for business and trading, is at the heart of all their events. And where better to combine all this than in the power metropolis of Frankfurt am Main.

„No city in Germany - no city in Europe - stands for business relevance and trading power as much as Frankfurt am Main,“ explains Tillmann. „We now have a unique opportunity to actively shape the future together. PREMIUM GROUP provides the industry with the platform, the brands with the creative content. In addition, we do what we do best, introduce the right players to each other and connect them. We bring together the movers and shakers who have the same drive as we do. With this new mix of location, entertainment, creative industry and trading focus, we are creating a unique momentum after the pandemic - January is when the big deals are made and the c ourse is set for the future.“

To achieve this goal, the PREMIUM GROUP teams have also given the proven successful formats PREMIUM and SEEK a new coat of paint. More space, new areas and shorter distances provide visitors with a completely new trade event experience. Trends, brands and events can be discovered together with new and well-known partners - for the first time all in one place!

And PREMIUM, which is already entering its 19th year in January, is also showing a new side in Frankfurt. Instead of being spread out like in Station-Berlin, in Frankfurt all brands show their collections in one big hall. „We are so excited to finally unite all exhibitors in one hall. This way we create a universe with many different worlds - colorful and exciting,“ says Wiebus. „We are in close exchange with all the protagonists throughout the year and continue to develop the concepts together. The entire industry is positive about coming together in Frankfurt. Everyone is keen to experience and create something completely new! We offer the framework for this - that is our strength.“

And the Berliners have another surprise in store for the Frankfurt debut: With THE GROUND, they are organizing a large fashion festival for young end consumers for the first time. Responsible for the event concept, in addition to Tillmann, Arntz and the PREMIUM GROUP- team, is B2C expert Kai Zollhöfer, who already made the Bread & Butter by Zalando a crowd puller. “THE GROUND is a B2C festival aimed at a young, purpose-driven generation. This new generation has a strong stance on current social and environmental challenges and expects brands to reflect them. The overriding themes at THE GROUND are therefore sustainability, diversity and equality”, said Zollhöfer.

The 3-day event offers brands the opportunity to interactively exhibit purpose-driven stories and products. In addition to the thematic focus on fashion, brands from the fields of wellbeing, beauty, mobility and technology will also present innovative products and solutions.

Modeaffine Männer sind heute mehr denn je bestrebt, ihre Outfits zu individualisieren und eine persönliche Note in ihren alltäglichen Look zu bringen. Diesem Anspruch wird EDUARD DRESSLER mit dem neuen Konzept „Colour your Suit“ gerecht. „Colour your Suit“ offeriert Kunden direkt am Point-of-Sale neue Gestaltungsspielräume: In drei einfachen Schritten kann vor Ort die Wahl aus Passform („Comfort Fit" oder „Shaped Fit"), Oberstoff und individueller Futtervariante getroffen werden.

Es stehen rund 40 Oberstoffe in verschiedenen Qualitäten und Farbnuancen zur Verfügung. Hinzu kommt eine breite Farbpalette von 17 Futterstoffen, die stets mit den ikonischen EDUARD DRESSLER Signet-Stichen versehen sind. Von dezentem Grau bis hin zu knalligem Pink ist für jeden Geschmack etwas dabei.

Bestellungen im Rahmen des „Colour your Suit“-Programms werden innerhalb von 3 Wochen nach Kundenwunsch gefertigt und über den Fachhändler ausgeliefert.

Für alle Kunden, denen die Gestaltungsspielräume von „Colour your Suit“ möglicherweise noch nicht ausreichen, bleibt natürlich weiterhin die Königsdisziplin im Rahmen des Made-to-Measure Progamms mit seiner großen Vielfalt an Stoffen, Formen, Maßanpassungen und Ausstattungsoptionen.

RadiciGroup demonstrates the feasibility of industrial-scale production of polyamides (nylon) starting from bio adipic acid obtained from renewable raw materials, including waste oil and by-products of the oil industry. Potential application sectors for the process and products are textile/fashion, automotive, design, electrical and electronics.

The research was conducted through the Ulysses project and experimentation was performed in collaboration with research centres and universities. Partial funding was received from the Region of Piedmont, within the scope of the “Call for Proposals IR2 (Industrialization of research results)”. The ambitious, innovative multiyear project was launched in March 2018 and stemmed from RadiciGroup's desire to increase the sustainability of its products, whilst delivering the same quality and performance as required by product standards. What is more, the Group wanted to meet the demand coming from its various strategic sectors, in line with the European targets for the development of low-emission businesses and a circular economy.

Im Rahmen des NRW-Projekts »Labor für urbane Zukunftsfragen und Innovationen (LUZI)« stellt die DEZENTRALE des Fraunhofer UMSICHT im September und Oktober mit vier kostenfreien Online-Veranstaltungen ihr Konzept der Stadtteilfabrik vor. Am 30. September können sich Kreativschaffende, Handwerker*innen und Interessierte aus dem Einzelhandel genauso wie alle Bürger*innen ein erstes Bild von der alternativen und nachhaltigen Lösung im urbanen Raum schaffen und darüber ins Gespräch kommen.

Thematischer Start mit einem Rundumschlag
Das Thema »Vision der Stadtteilfabrik« soll dabei insbesondere auch in all seinen Facetten zur Diskussion anregen und den interdisziplinären Austausch fördern. Von Geschäftsmodellen über Möglichkeiten der Nutzerintegration und Fertigungstechnologien bis hin zu entstehenden Mehrwerten bilden sich viele Fragen, auf die beim Auftakt der Veranstaltungsreihe eine Antwort erarbeitet wird. Angefangen mit dem Grobkonzept, stehen dabei aber auch insbesondere die Schlüsselaktivitäten im Mittelpunkt der Diskussion.

Zum Projekt
Das Labor für urbane Zukunftsfragen und Innovationen« untersucht transdisziplinär, wie und durch welche Zielgruppen ein Maker Space – eine offene Werkstatt – nachhaltig funktionieren kann. Dazu möchte das Forschungsteam herausfinden, welche Bedingungen es braucht, um soziale, ökologische und kreative Ideen in unternehmerisches Handeln zu überführen sowie Güter herzustellen und Bildungsangebote zu offerieren.

More and more brands are actively speaking up against the use of PFAS chemicals in products and supply chains. ChemSec’s corporate initiative the PFAS Movement was started in 2020, with the aim of creating a network of companies that would like to see PFAS chemicals regulated more efficiently. As of September 2021, 50 companies have joined the movement.

PFAS, short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is a chemical family consisting of almost 5,000 industrially produced chemicals. In manufacturing, PFAS are favored for their durability and well-functioning properties. They provide features such as non-stick, water repellency and anti-grease to many types of everyday products, including cosmetics, food packaging, frying pans and clothes, just to name a few.

Lately, more and more reports have been suggesting that PFAS are a serious problem. Human epidemiological studies have found associations between PFAS exposure and a number of health disorders.

One of the biggest challenges connected to PFAS is that, with very few exceptions, they are perfectly legal to use. This means that the brands and retailers who want to stop them from being used as ingredients in their products have very limited ways of communicating this in the global supply chain. As long as there is not a restriction in place, suppliers will continue to use these very effective chemicals in manufacturing. That’s why companies act together with a unified voice, like in the case of ChemSec’s PFAS Movement.

Zuwachs für die Frankfurt Fashion Week: Unter dem Namen Val:ue startet die Messe Frankfurt eine Plattform für Quality und Lifestyle Fashion im Mainstream-Bereich. Hier sollen sich künftig etablierte Retail-Marken versammeln.
 
Die Val:ue wird neue Looks und wegweisende Trends für die kommende Saison aus den Segmenten Damen- und Herrenbekleidung, Schuhe, Lederwaren, Accessoires und Lifestyle präsentieren. Dabei liegt der Fokus auf Unternehmen mit einem großen Markenbewusstsein und gutem Vertriebsnetz, die sich als Treiber von Innovationen im Handel positionieren. Damit einhergehend stehen kundenorientierte Produktentwicklungen, neue Logistikkonzepte, Digitalisierung und mehr Nachhaltigkeit im Mainstream im Rampenlicht der neuen Modemesse.

Die Val:ue zeigt auf, wie die frequenzbringenden und handelsrelevanten Marken diese Herausforderungen der Zukunft angehen und wie sie die Chancen des Wandels nutzen. Damit erhalte die weltweite Branche eine kompakte Handels- und Geschäftsplattform und zugleich eine passende Lösung für Einkäufer*innen in puncto One-Stop-Shop so der Messeveranstalter..
 
Angesichts der Herausforderungen durch die nachhaltige Transformation der Branche und den aktuell zu beobachtenden, geografischen Veränderungen in der Wertschöpfungskette sind professionelle Sourcing-Lösungen wichtiger als je zuvor.

Ergänzt wird die Val:ue um das Vorstufenthema Apparel Sourcing in Fashion. In diesem Bereich zeigen etablierte wie auch aufstrebende Player Turnkey-Lösungen für alle Teilnehmer*innen des Fashion-Marktes – inklusive white Labels und private Labels mit hohem Qualitätsstandard für Kleidung, Accessoires, Taschen, Schuhe und Lederwaren.

• A paper published in ACS Applied Materials Interfaces details effectiveness, describes protocol for future testing

An international team of scientists and engineers from the University of Cambridge, the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, ResInnova Labs and Ascend Performance Materials has found that a nylon fabric embedded with zinc ions successfully inactivated 99% of the viruses that cause COVID-19 and the common flu.

Face masks, protective clothing and filters are used to slow the spread of viruses. But poor-quality masks can harbor active viruses from infected wearers, posing a transmission risk.

“A major challenge is absorption and inactivation,” said Vikram Gopal, Ph.D., co-senior author and chief technology officer at Ascend Performance Materials. “Respiratory viral illnesses, such as COVID-19, and the flu, are transmitted through droplets and aerosols. Polypropylene, the material in commonly used disposable masks, is a hydrophobic plastic and does not absorb moisture. Instead, the viruses can sit on the surface of the mask, posing a transmission risk when the mask is handled.”

Cotton also has problems, Dr. Gopal said. “Cotton effectively absorbs moisture, but it doesn’t inactivate the virus – again, posing a transmission risk,” he said. In the paper published in ACS Applied Materials Interfaces, the researchers described how a fabric made of nylon 6,6 embedded with active zinc ions absorbed virus-containing moisture droplets and effectively inactivated the particles. The fabric produced a 2-log, or 99%, reduction of virus particles in one hour.

The research team also was able to demonstrate that nylon with active zinc ions remains stable over time, keeping its virus-inactivating properties after 50 washes. “The study shows how nylon textile fabric with zinc outperforms the widely used cotton and polypropylene materials at virus absorption and inactivation,” Dr. Gopal said. The findings have significant implications for future development of PPE, Dr. Gopal said. “Pathogen-free PPE does more than just cut down the risk of transmitting the virus,” Gopal said. “By making PPE washable and reusable, you reduce the need for single-use products, keeping hundreds of millions of masks out of landfills.”

Sowohl Dibella als auch REISINGER premium workwear engagieren sich seit Langem für sozial und ökologisch hergestellte Produkte, die im Gesundheitswesen und dem Textil-Service eingesetzt werden. Im Zuge einer langfristigen Kooperation haben die beiden Partner nun das eigenständige Unternehmen „Green Workwear“ geschaffen. Unter deren Dach wird eine Kleidung für die Pflegebranche vertrieben, die den Nachhaltigkeitsansprüchen gerecht wird.

Die langlebigen Mischgewebe werden ausschließlich aus nachhaltiger Baumwolle gemäß „Cotton made in Africa-Standard“, der botanischen Tencel-Faser und recyceltem Polyester hergestellt. Auch die Anforderungen an die Produktion der Kleidung sind ebenso anspruchsvoll. „Wir übernehmen Verantwortung für die Umwelt und alle handelnden Personen in der Lieferkette. Das schließt auch einen klimaneutralen Transport ein“, sagt Harald Reisinger, einer der beiden Geschäftsführer der Green Workwear.

„Die Herstellung erfolgt unter Einhaltung der bei Dibella in der Unternehmensphilosophie festgeschriebenen strengen sozialen und ökologischen Kriterien. Sie ist dank Respect Code bis an die Anfänge der Lieferketten nachvollziehbar und wird zusätzlich durch anerkannte Standards und renommierte Zertifikate – darunter der „Grüne Knopf“ und „Made in Green“ – untermauert“, ergänzt der zweite Geschäftsführer, Klaus Baur.

ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, specialized in sustainable premium stretch fibers, and Bemberg™, a fiber made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, have been invited to showcase at Filo, the international fair of orthogonal weaving yarns for clothing and furnishings, circular knitwear and technical textiles from the 29-30th of September.

ROICA™ will show its main innovations and four key pieces of the modern and sustainable contemporary wardrobe able to enhance the versatility of the fibers, applied to fashion, sportswear, legwear and underwear.
The brand will also be the protagonist of “The contemporary consumer: Stretch your imagination with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei smart innovation” speech on September 30th, 11am, organized by the fair to tell its sustainable story.

Bemberg™ will be at Filo showing some selected fabric innovation, and three responsible-driven designers representing different and complementary part of contemporary consumer wardrobe: ZEROBARRACENTO, Maurizio Miri and WAXEWUL.
Bemberg™ will be also involved in two speeches – entitled “Il viaggio di Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei verso una moda contemporanea, premium e responsabile” - organized by the fair (Sept. 29th and 30th at 4pm), where it will share its story made of creation, production and process, as well as product performance, aspects related to sustainability and circular economy approach.

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind this collection is the superhero Tadao – Ana Duarte’s dog – which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated.

With the support of WHITE and its WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano), Duarte’s creations will be featured online on the digital space of WSM-WHITE website, as well as being shown in a dedicated physical booth on September during Milan Fashion Week. The collection will also be presented on its new brand page on Renoon, an online platform devoted to Responsible Shopping. In addition, Duarte will be supported by IDEE Brand Platform in the development of commercial activities for the SS22 collection.