From the Sector

Designed by Creative Director Alessandro Michele, adidas x Gucci merges the emblems of the House with those of the iconic sportswear brand. The collection expands on the sartorial streetwear creations that debuted on the runway with a spectrum of sport-inspired pieces, distinguished by the same kaleidoscopic aesthetics of the show.

To present the selection, Alessandro Michele envisioned a series of images inspired by archival catalogs as a cast of characters strikes dynamic poses against brightly colored backdrops alongside sporty props, captured by photographer Carlijn Jacobs.

With the heritage of both brands encoded in a trio of lines, a fixation on stripes plays out across ready-to-wear pieces that echo the silhouettes of athletic staples and leisurewear. Track pants feature the white Three Stripes of adidas on one leg, while the other is defined by the red and green Web of Gucci. Energetic prints portray how motifs like the adidas Trefoil and GG monogram find synergy to amplify two legacies. Conventionally formal pieces like leather heels, suede loafers, and silk scarves enter hybridized territory as well, as they are marked with casual codes. Similarly, retro aesthetics become intrinsically contemporary as they proclaim there are no rules when it comes to dressing up.

Reflecting a shared commitment to innovation, progress, sustainability goals and collective action, the collection features multiple pieces crafted with future-conscious material fabrications including polyester, cotton and viscose.

adidas AG and Foot Locker, Inc. announced a new and enhanced partnership built around product innovation, elevated experiences, and deeper consumer connectivity. This enhanced relationship will establish Foot Locker as the lead partner for adidas in the basketball category, accelerate energy and hype launches, as well as include the development and expansion of key franchises across women’s, kids, and apparel. Including all Foot Locker banners in North America, EMEA, and Asia-Pacific, the new strategic partnership will target over $2 billion in retail sales by 2025, nearly tripling levels from 2021. In 2022, adidas expects to generate incremental revenues of up to €100 million as a result of the new partnership.  

Foot Locker will lead adidas' basketball offering, led by Fear of God founder and designer Jerry Lorenzo, spanning the lifestyle and performance categories, and develop exclusive positions in both areas. In addition, the collaboration will focus on key Originals franchises including NMD, Superstar and Stan Smith, and on the adidas influencer partnership portfolio. It will also include a prominent role for Foot Locker in the launch of adidas’ new Sportswear product division targeting the lifestyle consumer.

To execute the new plan, adidas will provide Foot Locker with a dedicated team to deliver an elevated consumer experience both in stores and online to help create demand and elevate the marketplace. This will involve partnership on product development, exclusive Foot Locker positioning, increased product allocations, shared marketing spend, and an elevated premium presence across Foot Locker’s entire portfolio of banners with a special focus on key cities and communities that the companies jointly serve. Lastly, to provide consumers with a seamless consumer journey, on and offline, both partners will increase their digital focus and accelerate the rollout of the adidas partner program at Foot Locker.

SANITIZED AG, a specialist for hygiene function in textiles, is expanding its Sanitized® Odorex™ portfolio for odorneutralizing technologies. The new OX20 product is usable on cotton, viscose, or synthetic fibers. It does not contain any biocides, it is highly wash-resistant, and it can be combined well with other effects.

Sanitized® Odorex™ is the product of several years of experience with environmentally friendly textile treatments. SANITIZED focuses heavily on the causes of, the production of, and the fighting of unpleasant sweat odor in textiles. The basis for the newly introduced biocide-free OX20 product is a metal-free polymer that neutralizes odors. It meets market requirements regarding wash-resistance with excellent results after up to 50 household washes.

Versatile and highly cost-efficient
The new product can be applied in extraction, pad, and spray. It can be used on all common substrates and is compatible with other textile effects. These properties increase the flexibility and efficiency during product design, and they reduce production costs. As one of the first technologies worldwide, OX20 can be applied to synthetics in the dye bath.

Feel and wearing comfort
Binders and particle systems negatively affect the textile’s feel and moisture management. OX20 is a particle-free product with a long-lasting effect that does not change how the textile feels, nor does it affect the textile’s moisture management.

Stratasys Ltd., ein Anbieter von Polymer-3D-Drucklösungen, stellte am 02. Mai 2022 einen 3D-Drucker vor, der speziell entwickelt wurde, um direkt auf Textilien zu drucken. Der 3D-Drucker J850™ TechStyle™ von Stratasys ist der neueste PolyJet™-Drucker des Unternehmens und soll den besonderen Anforderungen von Design- und Modeherstellern gerecht werden. Hierzu zählen etwa 3D-Druck für Textilwaren, Kleidung, Taschen, Accessoires und Schuhe aus dem hochwertigen Premiumbereich.

Laut der Modespezialistin und Trendforscherin Lidewij Edelkoort besteht schon seit langem Interesse an einem 3D-Drucker für Stoffe und Kleidungsstücke mit unzähligen kreativen Anwendungsmöglichkeiten für Modedesigner. Sie geht davon aus, dass die Branche begeistert sein wird und sagt: „Millionen von Gebeten des dekorativen Kunst- und Kreativhandwerks wurden erhört: Dieses hybride Gerät von Stratasys bietet einer großen Anhängerschaft schönere Ausgestaltungsmöglichkeiten.“

Um die Reichweite des 3D-Druckers J850 TechStyle weiter auszubauen, hat sich Stratasys mit einer Reihe von Partnern zusammengetan, darunter Dyloan und D-house in Mailand. D-house ist ein führendes innovatives Exzellenzzentrum für neue Modetechnologien und zeigt, wie vielseitig 3D-Druckanwendungen vom Konzeptdesign bis zur Produktion mit der 3D-Modetechnologie von Stratasys sind.

Der 3D-Drucker J850 TechStyle wurde so entwickelt, dass man damit direkt auf einer Vielzahl von Stoffen und Kleidungsstücken drucken kann, darunter Jeansstoff, Baumwolle, Polyester, Leinen und Leder. Die Mengen reichen dabei von Einzelstücken bis zu Zehntausenden Stücken.

Für den 3D-Drucker J850 TechStyle gibt es eine Vielzahl von Materialien, darunter Agilus30™ CMY-Farbmaterialien für flexiblen Vollfarbdruck und Vero™ ContactFlex, eine transparente Beschichtung, die verwendet werden kann, damit sich der Stoff weich und seidig anfühlt. Mit dem Material VeroVivid™ von Stratasys können Modehäuser und Designer Textilien mit über 600.000 einmaligen Farben mit zahlreichen Shore-Härtegraden bedrucken und verschiedene Texturen und Oberflächenausführungen simulieren.

Der 3D-Drucker J850 TechStyle und die SSYS 2Y22-Kollektion werden vom 6. bis 12. Juni 2022 auf der Milan Design Week zu sehen sein.

ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance presents its SS 2023 collection, made of high-tech fabrics implementing new-generation values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony at Performance Days.

ECOSENSOR™ presents 40 new references that meet the needs of the contemporary consumer, such as durability, wellbeing and performance. Being capable of combining active climate control, exquisite touch, lightness and comfort with sustainable values, ECOSENSOR™ stands out as a unique eco-high-tech performance proposition in its market. The collection covers the different market applications with 7 items for INNERWEAR, 2 for OUTERWEAR, 17 for SPORT KNIT and 14 for SPORT WOVEN.

All of ECOSENSOR™ fabrics are made with sustainable materials which are certified by internatinal certification such as GRS, RCS or self-certification by each yarn supplier, through a traceable and transparent production process and supply chain.
100% of the stretch articles (representing 35% of the collection) are made with ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, the recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer materials.
 
The main fibers are GRS certified recycled polyester and recycled polyamide, but the collection also features some blends, such as in Bemberg™, the high-tech yarn born from the transformation of cotton linters through a circular, transparent and traceable process with a precious hand, optimal moisture management characteristics,  whose end of life guarantees its biodegradability.
Even the dyeing and finishing phases - key moments for performancewear - have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® or OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

A new interview study from NGO ChemSec shows that there is a gap between supply and demand when it comes to recycled materials, causing confusion and bottlenecks. Among other things, suppliers go out of their way using elaborate trade schemes to reach the coveted ”100% recycled” tag, which – it turns out – is not that important to consumer product brands. Far more crucial aspects, according to several major B2C companies, are:

• Honest communication towards customers
• Comprehensive information from suppliers
• Clear standards for recycled material

These are some of the conclusions from NGO ChemSec’s survey and interview study with 26 highly well-known consumer product brands. All brands responded to a survey concerning their current plastic use, as well as their needs, expectations and challenges regarding using more recycled material, to enable the shift to a circular economy for plastics.

Ten of the brands then participated in in-depth interviews on the same topics:, Essity, H&M, IKEA, Inditex , Lego, Mars,  SC Johnson, Tarkett, Unilever and Walgreens Boots Alliance.

Is non-mechanical recycling the answer?
Only about ten percent of all discarded plastics is recycled today, which is of course not nearly enough to achieve a circular plastics economy. Despite ambitions and initiatives to reduce plastics use – replacing the materials with other, more sustainable ones – the “plastic tap” is not expected to be turned off anytime soon. Quite the opposite, which makes raising the recycling rates more important than ever.

Although commercially viable, traditional (mechanical) recycling is afflicted with severe flaws, such as legacy chemicals, quality and functionality issues, as well as the lack of clean and sorted waste streams. The brands cited quality and functionality issues as the main obstacles for using more recycled material in their products.

This opens up for non-mechanical recycling, sometimes referred to as chemical recycling, where the plastic is either dissolved or broken down into smaller building blocks. Harmful additives and other hazardous chemicals can be removed in the process, and a material comparable to virgin plastic can be achieved – at least in theory.

So far, however, non-mechanical recycling technologies are costly, energy-intensive, and often require the addition of a great deal of virgin plastic to work – the very material that needs to be phased out.

The chain of custody models needs to be detangled
Apart from these production issues, there is a wide range of chain of custody models surrounding non-mechanical recycling, including mass balance and book & claim, which enable trade of credits or certificates for recycled material.

This cuts the physical connection between input and output, making it possible for a supplier to sell a material as “100% recycled”, when the actual recycled content could be zero.

This is a major issue for the brands ChemSec has spoken to, who value honest and correct communication towards customers. It turns out, perhaps somewhat surprisingly, that being able to slap a “made from 100% recycled plastic” label on a product is not all that important to brands.

To the brands, a physical connection between input (the discarded plastic waste headed for recycling) and output (the product at least partially made from recycled plastics) is far more important.

A physical connection, along with correct and adequate information from suppliers, as well as clearer standards and guidelines than what is available today, is what brands require to increase the use of recycled material and move us closer to a circular economy for plastics.

ISKO joins hands with Paolo Gnutti to break exciting new ground in the world of premium, luxury denim. Both will respectively bring together their expertise in advanced responsible denim technologies and refined fabrics’ elevation, resulting in special ISKO™ Luxury collections by PG, characterized by a high-end appeal.

“ISKO is thrilled to collaborate with Paolo Gnutti, one of the most respected personalities among the denim community.” claimed Marco Lucietti, Director of Strategic Projects, ISKO. “It is a wonderful moment for us to inspire the whole industry with the most revolutionary technological innovations, highly profiled to the unique needs of the luxury segment and we know that Paolo’s creative touch will bring out the very best of ISKO denim’s qualities.”

“The collaboration with ISKO is exciting on so many levels” explains Paolo Gnutti, PG founder. “The company pioneers game-changing technologies in quality, performance and sustainability for the world of denim which is extremely interesting for me to explore for the luxury aesthetic. We will be working with new and exclusive fabrics that will bring a unique twist to the world of fashionable luxury denim. Together, we will really energize the premium sector.”

ISKO is back at the Denim Première Vision in Berlin from 17-18th of May.

ISKO did not miss the opportunity to be a driver for change as the community of fashion leaders gathered at the event “Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2022” on April 21st, in London. Specifically, ISKO’s presence at the event took place through a stand dedicated to the company’s commitment to the development of new processes for better industry practices, and through the participation of ISKO’s head of sustainability, Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, in the panel “Leading the way: exploring denim’s approach to responsible and sustainable manufacturing”.

The company’s technology R-TWO™50+ played a great role in showing how the innovative soul of the company matches its sustainable one. R-TWO™50+ is the driving force behind ISKO’s efforts to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet. The fabrics are made with a minimum of 50% pre- and post-consumer recycled blend that is entirely Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. This results in less use of natural resources and a reduced carbon and water footprint of up to 45% and 65% respectively.
Held at main Stage, the panel was a chance to delve into the great strides that the industry has taken to dramatically reduce its carbon footprint through ground-breaking technology, with the speakers stating that “sustainability strategies are essential for the health not only of the planet but also of the industry itself.”

This collaborative and educational project showcases the use of waste as a resource and prolonging the life of the garment through color. It came to life thanks to key brands who donated items that were then transformed by Officina39’s Recycrom™ applications into a renewed head-to-toe look that was then displayed as an art installation.

What’s the Recipe for change? For Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab, this question gives shape to the collaborative and educational project Circular Explorations, specially presented at Amsterdam Denim Days Festival on April 22-23.

Sharing ground values and a common view on the fashion of tomorrow, Officina39, Italian based Chemistry plus Creativity company for the textile sector, joined hands with Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab and influential brands to celebrate the importance of an ongoing commitment towards circularity.

Several donated items – overstock, second-grade production or damaged, unsold pieces – were updated with newly developed applications made with Officina39’s Recycrom™, the one-of-a-kind, patented dyestuffs range made from textile waste. This Circular Explorations capsule is displayed at Denim Days Festival as an art installation, not only to dress people but also to get them acquainted with circularity because they are an important player in closing the loop.

The Recipe for change that emerges from this color research is based on important values and keywords:

• Consciousness – awareness of oneself and one's surroundings
• Courage – the mental or moral strength to venture, persevere, and withstand danger, fear, or difficulty.
• Creativity – the power to imagine and produce new possibilities.
• Connection – a relationship in which a person or thing is linked or associated with something else, the act or state of connecting.
• Collaboration – the act of working together for a common goal.

Combined together, they produce CHANGE, which is a driving force for a better tomorrow.

This collaborative and innovative project that addresses circularity is also in direct support of United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, in particular number 12-Responsible Consumption and Production, number 9-Industry innovation & Infrastructure and number 17-Partnership for the Goals.

Archroma and Stony Creek Colors (“Stony Creek”), a manufacturer of traceable natural indigo dyes, announced that they have entered a strategic partnership to produce and bring to the market Stony Creek’s IndiGold™ high-performance plant-based pre-reduced indigo at scale.

Stony Creek extracts its dye from proprietary Indigofera plant varieties grown in partnership with family farms as a regenerative rotational crop.

Stony Creek Colors developed the new IndiGold™ concept as on of the world’s first pre-reduced natural indigo dyes, which was then developed with Archroma to offer a plant-based alternative to synthetic pre-reduced indigo. The dyestuff will be sold as a 20% concentration in a soluble liquid form that displays similar performance to comparable synthetic indigo products available on the market.

Stony Creek Colors evolved into an innovative leader in plant-based indigo due to its complete development of an improved agricultural value chain, from seed breeding and production to biomass harvest and extraction. The company has been selling its US grown indigo to denim mills since 2015.

The pre-reduced plant-based indigo partnership took root in 2020 when Stony Creek was looking to work with like-minded partners to produce the new dyestuff at scale. Archroma emerged as the ideal partner as the company is well known for its expertise in indigo manufacturing and application, as well as for its commitment to transform the denim industry towards creating better blue jeans.

Archroma immediately offered to support the idea of Stony Creek Colors with extensive pilot scale manufacturing trials and engaged with its network of denim machinery manufacturers to test the first samples in industrial conditions. The trials showed excellent coloration and the typical indigo wash down, as with synthetic indigo. Archroma will produce the first batches of IndiGold™ in Salvatierra, Mexico, and has other locations where the product could be made. The company will support Stony Creek Colors through its manufacturing and logistics capabilities, and its expertise in denim dyeing with customers using pre-reduced indigo.

While this development was underway, the global innovation platform Fashion for Good selected Stony Creek Colors as an innovator in its global Innovation Program. The program connects brands with innovators to work together to test, validate and ultimately scale disruptive innovations in the fashion industry to drive positive impact. Through the program, Fashion for Good facilitated a collaboration between brand partner Levi Strauss & Co. and Stony Creek Colors which was announced in December 2021. The partners will pilot the use of IndiGold™ in denim mills at scale, with the goal of unlocking key learnings around shade application and other efficiencies of this new dyestuff.