From the Sector

Inspiriert vom Claim Life is invaluable präsentiert EDUARD DRESSLER für die Saison Frühjahr/Sommer 2023 eine Kollektion, die den Blick auf die essenziellen Dinge des Lebens lenkt und damit bewusst auf die großen Themen unserer Zeit eingeht.

Farbwelt
Ein wichtiger Aspekt der neuen Frühjahr/Sommer Kollektion ist die Betonung einer ganzheitlich konzipierten „Farbwelt“. Vier Farbthemen stehen für ursprüngliche, naturbelassene Landschaften und fließen in allen Kollektionsbereichen in die Kreationen ein: Blau / Braun, Oliv / Grau, Monochrom / Messing und Navy / Rosé.
Die neue Bildsprache dieser Farbwelten findet ihren Ausdruck auch im Look-Book, das in puristischem Ambiente in einem lichtdurchfluteten Studio in Berlin geshootet wurde.

Look
Ein wiederkehrendes Motiv der Frühjahr/Sommer Kollektion 2023 ist die Kombination von klassisch gehaltenen Unis und besonderen Einzelstücken.

Tonangebend bleibt der Trend hin zum Anzug und zu mehr Eleganz. An die Stelle des klassischen Business Looks tritt dabei ein Fokus auf klassische, mithin sartorial anmutende Stoffe, die durch neue Volumina und Schnittführungen aktualisiert werden und in verschiedensten Kombinationen sowohl elegantere als auch casualisiertere Grundbedürfnisse befriedigen.

Zu diesem Konzept passen Key Pieces wie ein schwarz-weißer Glencheck-Anzug, dessen auffällige Optik bewusst im Kontrast zu schlichteren, haptischen und hochwertigen Qualitäten bei Sakkos und Anzügen steht.

Darüber hinaus zählen Streifen-Sakkos sowie auffällige Karos, in Kombination mit locker geschnittener Bundfaltenhose oder mit Shirt und Jeans, zu den Key Looks der Kollektion.

Hinzu kommt ein eleganter, sommerlich casualisierter Seersucker-Doppelreiher aus einer Wolle-, Seiden- und Leinenmischung, der nicht nur hochwertig, weich und bequem ist, sondern in Kombination mit heller Hose und hellem Shirt auch eine lässige Eleganz versprüht.

Europe has a 7-7.5-million-ton waste problem, of which only 30-35% is collected today. The ReHubs initiative launched in 2020 has now completed a Techno Economic Master Study (TES) and it sheds light on key figures and options to collaborate to solve the European waste problem.

In two and a half year all EU member states are obliged to separately collect textile waste. Currently there are no large-scaled plans to use that waste.  The largest portion of the waste (around 85%) comes from households.

The ReHubs initiative brings together key European and world players to solve the textile waste problem by transforming “waste” into a resource and to boost textile circular business models at large scale. The completed TES has accessed critical information on solving the European waste problem. It is estimated that to reach a collection rate from 18 to 26 percent by 2030, 7 billion euro will be needed. Once matured and scaled, the textile recycling industry could become a profitable industry with a total market size of 6-8 billion € and around 15,000 direct new jobs by 2030. As a first step the ReHubs Initiative announces different actions forwards, including projects on this pathway, which one is to transform textile waste into feedstock.

TEXAID has been supporting ReHubs since the start and contributed significantly involved to the Business Council and the Steering Committee of the initiative. As strongly committed industry leader TEXAID is taking the lead on the project to transform textile waste into feedstock for recycling processes. In order to handle the increasing quantities of post-consumer textile waste a massive scale up of sorting and preparation for recycling of used textiles is needed. TEXAID is committed to lead the work on developing new technologies and building up additional capacities for the handling and preparing of textile waste for textile recycling in Europe. In a first phase this involves the built up of a new sorting and pre-processing facility with the capacity of 50’00 tons p.a. by 2024.

The Japanese textile manufacturer ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei Advance presents its SS 2023 collection, made of high-tech fabrics implementing new-generation values, with the aim of keeping nature, body and mind in harmony.

ECOSENSOR™ presents 40 new references that meet the needs of the contemporary consumer, such as durability, wellbeing and performance. Being capable of combining active climate control, exquisite touch, lightness and comfort with sustainable values, ECOSENSOR™ stands out as a unique eco-high-tech performance proposition in its market. The collection covers the different market applications with 7 items for INNERWEAR, 2 for OUTERWEAR, 17 for SPORT KNIT and 14 for SPORT WOVEN.

Furthermore, all of ECOSENSOR™ fabrics are made with sustainable materials which are certified by internatinal certification such as GRS, RCS or self-certification by each yarn supplier, through a traceable and transparent production process and supply chain.
100% of the stretch articles (representing 35% of the collection) are made with ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, the recycled stretch yarn made from pre-consumer materials.

The main fibers are GRS certified recycled polyester and recycled polyamide, but the collection also features some blends, such as in Bemberg™, the high-tech yarn born from the transformation of cotton linters through a circular, transparent and traceable process with a precious hand, optimal moisture management characteristics,  whose end of life guarantees its biodegradability.
Even the dyeing and finishing phases have been certified by international labels such as bluesign® or OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

BOGNER celebrate its anniversary with the title “Off to New Horizons” and reinterpret its iconic silhouettes of the past years for today. The focus is on new perspectives and ways to merge craftsmanship with the latest innovations, always in search of synergies between luxury and progress.

The timely and the timeless come into balance at BOGNER Fall/Winter 2022, where a selection of sophisticated looks conveys a sense of loose elegance and ease. The quest for new horizons is reflected in a wide range of luxurious materials, which ensure cool comfort and performance glamour.

C&S strengthens its position in the luxury segment with the acquisition of Texo S.R.L., a company based in Cagli (Pesaro and Urbino) with 10 years of experience in the production of fashion apparel for Texo and for third parties.

C&S enriches the offer of its Style Services Luxe division, the research and production solution for any kind of style needs, together with Style Services Denim and along with C&S Experience projects, initiatives in direct contact with retail such as the haikure brand and the license agreements for Europe for Jeckerson and Purple. C&S’s history begins over 40 years ago in Trestina, in the Perugia province, and is rooted in denim culture and in the limitless potential that comes with this fabric. The company has begun to establish itself as a partner for the creation of jackets, shirts, outerwear, and denim. Its know-how expresses the combination of the production souls that characterize its territory of origin, between Umbria and Marche: all the typical tradition of premium denim mixed with the culture of luxury apparel, intimately dedicated to beauty, quality, and attention to detail.

“We are proud to have achieved this new milestone” states Federico Corneli, C&S’s main shareholder. “We firmly believe that the added value that Texo S.R.L.’s specialization brings to the table will allow us to grow further and to be able to accelerate the strategic path that will lead us to establish ourselves as special partner for the most important luxury brands”.

Die VIEW Premium Selection, die Preview Textile Show der Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH, fand vom 21. bis 22. Juni statt. Mit einer selektierten Auswahl von über 300 Pre-Collections, darunter Unternehmen wie Akris, Baldessarini, Bogner, Calvin Klein, Cinque, Comma, Drykorn, Escada, Hugo Boss, Lala Berlin, Lagerfeld, Laurél, MAC, Marc Cain, Marc O’Polo, Riani, Schumacher oder Strellson – die nach München gereist sind, um sich zum frühestmöglichen Zeitpunkt über Neuentwicklungen und erste Farb- und Materialtendenzen für Herbst/Winter 2023/24 zu informieren.

Die VIEW Premium Selection ist in vier Areas unterteilt: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, DESIGN STUDIOS sowie DENIM & SPORTSWEAR. Gemeinsam bilden sie als Trend-Pool und Business-Plattform die Informations- und Inspirationsgrundlage für Europas Modeexpert*innen.

Previews für AW23/24
Von Maxi Checks bis Metawear, von enthusiastischen Farben und glänzenden, bewegten Oberflächen bis hin zu Hightech und textiler Intelligenz. Schon zum frühen Zeitpunkt in der Saison zeichnet sich ab, dass es darum geht, Statements zu setzen.

Die nächste VIEW Premium Selection findet von 29. bis 30. November 2022 statt

Lectra, whose connected industrial equipment and software facilitate the digital transformation and Industry 4.0 transition of fashion, automotive and furniture companies, announces its selection for the new Euronext Tech Leaders stock market index. This brings Lectra into the community of European technology leaders identified by Euronext as innovative and high-growth companies.

The new Euronext Tech Leaders market index, launched on June 7, comprises 100 European technology companies listed on the Euronext markets, which meet various performance and growth criteria. With the launch of this initiative, Euronext aims to offer better visibility and new services to selected European technology leaders.

Lectra is one of the 41 French companies that are now members of Euronext Tech Leaders. The company, founded in 1973 on a close relationship with fashion industry players, has also for the last three decades worked globally with automotive equipment and furniture manufacturers. In its three strategic markets, Lectra sells connected equipment that optimizes the cutting processes of fabric, leather and other soft materials used by manufacturers, and markets software and services that streamline their production processes while enabling them to be more agile and make considerable material savings.

In fashion, through the use of market data – made accessible and exploitable by the Internet of Things, the cloud, artificial intelligence and big data – Lectra’s software solutions also enable a better understanding of consumers’ behavior. They therefore facilitate strategic decision-making for brands, manufacturers and distributors at the key steps in the value chain of design, production and distribution. In this industry, the impact of Lectra’s solutions on reducing material consumption is even greater because it takes effect as early as the garment design stage.

Technology and innovation are therefore at the heart of Lectra’s strategy, with the company aiming to become a key player in Industry 4.0 in its strategic markets by 2030.

• Finnish fashion and textile technology company Infinited Fiber Company plans to build its first commercial-scale Infinna™ fiber factory at Stora Enso’s Veitsiluoto industrial site in the city of Kemi in Finland’s northernmost region of Lapland. Infinited Fiber Company plans to convert a building currently housing a discontinued paper production line.
• The size of Infinited Fiber Company’s planned investment is around EUR 400 million.
• The planned factory is expected to create around 270 jobs at the Veitsiluoto industrial site.
• The factory is expected to operate at full capacity in 2025.

Fashion and textile technology company Infinited Fiber Company plans to build a commercial-scale factory to produce regenerated textile fiber for the world’s leading apparel companies at the site of renewable materials company Stora Enso’s closed Veitsiluoto paper mill in Kemi, a Finnish city on the northern shore of the Baltic Sea. The size of the investment is estimated at EUR 400 million, and it is expected to create around 270 jobs in the area. The annual fiber production capacity of the planned factory is expected to be 30,000 metric tons, which is equivalent to the fiber needed for about 100 million T-shirts.  

Infinited Fiber Company’s technology enables cotton-rich textile waste to be transformed into a versatile, high-quality regenerated textile fiber called Infinna™, which looks and feels like cotton. Major international fashion and apparel companies – including Zara’s parent company Inditex, PVH Europe, which is known for the Tommy Hilfiger brand, Patagonia, PANGAIA, H&M Group and BESTSELLER – have already committed to Infinna™ purchases through multi-year agreements as they look for materials that enable the industry to shift towards circularity. Infinited Fiber Company expects to export most of the output of its planned factory. This makes Kemi an ideal location as the city’s port serves as an efficient link to the rest of the world.

Infinited Fiber Company will convert a building housing a discontinued paper production line into an Infinna™ fiber factory. Both the factory engineering and project implementation as well as the related financing negotiations were commenced at the beginning of the year and are progressing well. Infinited Fiber Company has also agreed on the provision of energy and water related services with utility infrastructure company Nevel.

Once up and running, the factory is expected to provide direct employment for around 220 people, and for a further 50 through on-site support functions such as services, maintenance, and logistics. The additional indirect employment impact is estimated to be around 800 jobs. The construction and installation phase is expected to create jobs equaling around 120 person-years. The factory is anticipated to operate at full capacity in 2025.

TEXAID as a professional collector and sorter with roots in Switzerland contributes to this ecosystem to enable the textile-to-textile recycling.  The creation of Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem marks a key milestone in the upscaling of Worn Again Technologies’ recycling process technology with technology scale-up partner Sulzer Chemtech in Winterthur. It also supports its ambition to create a circular economy where non-reusable, hard-to-recycle textiles can be reintroduced into supply chains to become new fibers.

To cause a paradigm shift in the fashion industry and realize true circularity requires all members of the value chain to be on the same page and working towards the same goals. The Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem is a network comprising fabric and textile manufacturers, waste collectors and sorters, as well as retailers, brand owners and technology providers – all coordinated by Swiss Textiles. All these parties will cooperate to make their shared vision of a more sustainable fashion industry a reality, where used textiles can be recycled into new textiles.

TEXAID as a stakeholder in the Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem and as leading textile recycling company with over 40 years of experience will support the initiative through collecting, sorting, pre-processing and providing pre- and post-consumer feedstock to the Demonstration Plant. At its headquarters in Schattdorf (CH), TEXAID will investigate possibilities to automate the sorting and pre-processing of textile feedstock for recycling. Currently, TEXAID processes more than 80,000 tons of end-of-use textiles and footwear every year all over Europe and the US.

Bemberg™ is teaming up with MagnoLab, a network of Biella-based companies apt to carry out projects related to sustainability and circular economy, to create and display T-shirts that combine environmental responsibility and aesthetic research at the 102nd edition of Pitti Uomo.

Bemberg™ is used in shirts, cocktail dresses, dust coats, coordinates, outerwear and more by international brands operating in the fashion and luxury industries. To demonstrate its journey and evolution in contemporary style, Bemberg™ has collaborated with MagnoLab to develop a project that resulted in contemporary cut I-shirts presented both in sheer and blends with other certified fibers, including GOTS cottons and RWS wools, capable of enhancing both the hand of the final garment and the performance of the yarn.

The project conceived for Pitti Uomo 102 stems from the spirit of Bemberg™ and fits perfectly into the philosophy of MagnoLab, whose mission is to carry out projects related to environmental responsibility through a joint and participatory approach of partners, and to create value by developing innovative products and processes with rapid testing cycles, according to a lean management model.