From the Sector

• Key Provision Guarantees Long-Term Contracts for Domestic PPE

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished products, issued a statement today welcoming Senate passage of the bipartisan U.S. Innovation and Competition Act (USICA). As part of the bill’s effort to address overall manufacturing and technology competitiveness issues from the perspective of the U.S.-China relationship, the legislation will help reconstitute a domestic supply chain for personal protective equipment (PPE).

“We commend the Senate for ushering the bipartisan USICA, designed to make the U.S. more globally competitive against China, across the finish line which includes an important provision to help onshore personal protective equipment (PPE) production,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.

“We sincerely thank Senator Rob Portman (R-OH) and Senator Gary Peters (D-MI) for working to include their Make PPE in America Act in the USICA, a critical priority of the U.S. textile industry,” Glas said. “This language will help onshore critical production of medical personal protective equipment (PPE) by guaranteeing long-term contracts for American-made PPE and establishing a much-need domestic procurement requirement for federal purchases of these essential products. It will ensure that that U.S. taxpayer dollars are utilized to construct and secure a domestic production chain for the manufacture of lifesaving PPE and other essential medical supplies,” Glas said.

NCTO led an industry and labor coalition effort supporting the inclusion of the Make PPE in America Act in the USICA.  The USICA contains the key provisions of the Portman-Peters bill that ensures all PPE purchased by the Departments of Homeland Security, Health and Human Services and Veterans Affairs are Berry Amendment-compliant and guarantees long-term contracts for these critical items to incentivize domestic production.

“While we support the overall USICA package, which includes many items of critical importance to the U.S. textile industry, our industry is extremely concerned about a provision that was added in the eleventh hour that could sidetrack the critical effort to onshore a self-sufficient PPE industry,” Glas added. “This harmful provision would unilaterally suspend normal tariffs and penalties assessed on PPE imports for two years. Doing so would allow China to maintain its stranglehold on the U.S. PPE market, while working at cross-purposes with other provisions of the bill designed to incentivize much needed investment in domestic PPE manufacturing. U.S. manufacturers retooled production and have significant idle capacity.  It is critical that the House of Representatives strike this damaging language if this legislative package is considered.

“Congress and the administration need to keep PPE tariffs in place to support U.S. businesses and workers who abide by higher labor, environmental and production standards.  The industry reconstituted supply chains to help healthcare frontline workers.  Our industry has significant capacity to help meet U.S. medical needs.  This provision is the absolute wrong message to send to American manufacturers and its workforce.” Glas noted.

Sappi offers Transjet Tacky Industrial, a coated dye sublimation paper for digital transfer printing, specially developed for high-speed inkjet printing on highly elastic textiles. Also new is the uncoated dye sublimation paper Basejet, which has been developed for light designs for high-speed digital printing of fashion and home textiles.

• Transjet Tacky Industrial: Immediate tack effect, high ink transfer, fast ink drying; no ghosting on elastic textiles thanks to reversible tack
• Basejet: Consistent print quality for light designs, fast ink-drying, very fast transfer process

Transjet Tacky Industrial enables highly elastic fabrics to be printed on industrial high-speed machines that work with a higher glycol content, such as printheads from Kyocera. The paper is first printed with the desired image or pattern which is then transferred to the elastic polyester fabric by means of heat and pressure.

Sublimation paper for the textile industry
The new dye sublimation paper offers many benefits for the textile industry, which frequently has to adapt to changing trends. As it is suitable for use on high-speed digital printers, significantly more designs can be printed in the same time than was previously possible on plotters. Thanks to a special heat-reactive coating, the paper adheres to highly stretchable content, while the reversible tack prevents ghosting and textile shrinkage. Transjet Tacky
Industrial has a high ink load capacity so the print can be better accentuated due to strong colour saturation. The design remains clearly visible when the fabric is stretched to its maximum, which is often the case with sportswear in particular.

Basejet specially for light designs
Sappi has also added the Basejet uncoated dye sublimation paper to its portfolio, an additional solution for the digital printing of fashion and home textiles in consistent print quality. The uncoated dye sublimation paper is intended in particular for light designs and cost-driven production processes.

• Guidelines of the EU Commission to implement the Single-Use Plastics Directive have been published
• Uniform labelling obligation for wipes and feminine hygiene products containing plastics as of July 03, 2021
• Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable VEOCEL™ branded fibers as a sustainable alternative to plastic

The Lenzing Group welcomes the issuance of the guidelines for the implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (EU) 2019/904, which took effect on June 05, 2019¹. In these guidelines, the EU Commission specifies which products fall within the scope of the directive, thus providing clarity in the joint fight of the EU member states against environmental pollution from plastic waste. Lenzing’s wood-based, biodegradable cellulosic fibers such as those of the VEOCEL™ brand comprise a sustainable and innovative solution to this man-made problem.

Uniform labelling rules for some single-use plastic products
The Commission implementing regulation (EU) 2020/2151 applying to the Single-Use Plastics Directive stipulate uniform labelling requirements for some of the single-use plastic products on the packaging or the product itself starting on July 03, 2021. They encompass feminine hygiene products and wet wipes for personal and household care containing plastic.

Consumers want sustainable hygiene products
Even before the implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive, Lenzing already gives consumers clear guidance in their purchasing decisions. Products bearing the VEOCEL™ brand logo on their packaging are produced in line with stringent certification criteria. As a consequence, consumers can be assured that the products contain biodegradable, cellulosic materials.

A Marketagent survey carried out in German-speaking Europe in October 2019² concluded that nine out of ten consumers would immediately change their purchasing behavior for wipes if they found out that their current product contains plastic. This would seem to imply that new market dynamics will emerge once the labelling rules for single-use plastic products takes effect. According to a Smithers Report³, about 500,000 tons of petroleum-based fibers are used each year for the production of wipes.

¹ Directive (EU) 2019/904 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 5 June 2019 on the reduction of the impact of certain plastic products on the environment
² Representative Marketagent Online survey, n = 1,005 (14 - 69 years old, from Austria and Germany). https://itsinourhands.com/
³ Smithers Report “The Future of Global Nonwoven Wipes to 2023”, published in 2018, page 23, reference year 2018

Lectra’s Shareholders’ Meeting appointed Jean Marie (“John”) Canan as a new Director, for a period of four years. Jean Marie Canan becomes a member of Lectra’s Audit Committee, Compensation Committee and Strategic Committee.

A Canadian national, at 64, Jean Marie Canan is currently Lead Independent Director and Chairman of the Audit Committee of REV Group, an American company listed on the NYSE; Director and Chairman of the Audit Committee of Acasti Pharma, a Canadian company listed on the NASDAQ and Director of the Angkor Hospital for Children, a leading non-profit pediatric hospital in Cambodia.

Jean Marie Canan, graduated from McGill University in Montreal, Canada and is a Canadian Certified Public Accountant (CPA), began his career at PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) in 1978, starting in their Montreal office, and then two years in their Hong Kong office. From 1990 to 2014, he held many ever-increasing positions of responsibility at Merck & Co, Inc. (“Merck”). These included senior roles in finance, strategy development, business development and operations. He was part of a small team that led the acquisition of Schering-Plough by Merck. He also provided operational oversight for most of the Merck group’s joint ventures, including DuPont-Merck, Johnson and Johnson-Merck, Astra-Merck, and Schering-Plough-Merck. Merck’s Executive Committee selected Jean Marie as one of the five senior leaders charged with defining Merck's new strategy in 2006.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HonG KonG) LTD., will participate in the ITMA Asia + CITME 2020 exhibition to be held at the national Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, China in June.

Through its exhibit theme—Step Beyond—SHIMA SEIKI will present its vision of the future, while addressing a variety of solutions for the new normal, including proposals in Factory Automation, Digital Transformation (DX), and various online solutions.

At ITMA Asia SHIMA SEIKI will be making proposals for factory automation centered around the special manufacturing capabilities of our WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines. WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear can be knit in one entire piece without the need for linking or sewing, and allows for on-demand knitting. SHIMA SEIKI will present its WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology in the form of two of the latest machines. The flagship MACH2XS is the one of most advanced flat knitting machines, featuring proprietary four-needle bed and Slideneedle™ technology combined with spring-type moveable sinkers and i-DSCS+DTC® Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence and Dynamic Tension Control, and capable of all-needle knitting of WHOLEGARMENT® items. MACH2XS is presented in ultrafine 18L gauge, shown for the first time in China. Also shown for the first time in China, MACH2VS, a flexible V-bed machine capable of knitting WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle, or conventional shaped knitting using all needles. It also features spring-type moveable sinkers and i-DSCS+DTC® Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence and Dynamic Tension Control. MACH2VS is presented in ultrafine 18G with auto yarn carriers as a prototype option.

ITMA Asia will also be the occasion for a sneak preview of next-Generation 4-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology. The new machine is named SWG-XR, adopting the SWG moniker from the first-generation WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine introduced back in 1995. The "X" represents 4 needle beds arranged in an Xshaped formation as per the original SWG-X machine, while "R" stands for Reborn and Revolution, referring to a renewal of SHIMA SEIKI's WHOLEGARMENT® knitting that raises the technology to unprecedented levels. By increasing the number of systems from 3 to 4 and featuring auto yarn carriers, SWG-XR allows even higher productivity and vastly improved range of knitting.

In order to further support efforts in DX in the fashion industry, SHIMA SEIKI has released three new online services over the past year which will also be showcased at ITMA Asia: 'APEXFiz™' subscription-based design software; 'yarnbank ™' digital yarn sourcing web service; and 'SHIMAnAVI™' e-learning service.

Progressive material innovations presented digitally: following the cancellation of this year’s fair due to the corona pandemic, Heimtextil is extending its range of digital services and launching a new online materials library entitled ‘Future Materials Library’. 24 future-oriented materials for interior applications can now be found at www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/future.

The curators of the new materials library are London-based futures-research agency, FranklinTill. “We are transitioning to a materials revolution that will help restore the balance in our relationship to our planet. As part of the Heimtextil Trends 21/22, we present a new selection of materials for interior applications with exciting innovations from all over the world”, says Caroline Till of FranklinTill.

A mix of commercially viable products and developments in an early stage

Imaginative designers and environmentally-aware manufacturers: the Future Materials Library 2021 offers materials pioneers a platform and presents a first-class mix of economically proven and revolutionary developments. FranklinTill has organised the materials in four themes: REGENERATIVE CROPS, REMADE FIBRES, HARVESTING WASTE STREAMS and SUSTAINABLE COLOUR.

Resources are running low

Thus, the new Heimtextil materials library tackles one of the main problems of the modern age: the shortage of resources on earth. In particular, textile production creates huge and continuously growing quantities of waste. And, over past decades, the design business has developed a ‘take, make and discard’ model of consumption that is incredibly harmful for our planet. In the climate-emergency era, however, future-oriented designers are learning from nature and working together with it. They endeavour to make use of the power of highly efficient natural circular systems to create textiles and materials that are better for both humans and the planet.

Heimtextil Trends: a guide for the international sector

The ‘Future Materials Library’ is part of the Heimtextil Trends that, for almost three decades, have been offering orientation for the sector by revealing design tendencies for the coming season. Even in the crisis, the Heimtextil Trends remain a vital part of the overall concept of the fair and provide important content for all target groups involved within the worldwide sector. Accordingly, Heimtextil aims to spotlight style-defining design developments taking place within the larger context of lifestyle trends. At the same time, the Heimtextil trend experts scan the exhibitors’ product world and identify unequivocal trends in the sector. In this connection, particular attention is paid to sustainable aspects along the entire value chain – in both the new digital library and live during the fair next January. 

On the occasion of the VDMA press conference, André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs at Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division, presented the company's concept for ITMA Asia with the claim: Clean Technology. Smart Factory.

Due to the Corona pandemic, Oerlikon has decided to concentrate with their Chinese sales and service teams on guests primarily from China and greater Asia. However, some experts from Germany, who are working in China at our locations anyway, will be live on site at the booth. Other experts from Germany, India and US will be available online for the entire 5 days of the trade fair and will simply be connected by video conference to the discussion with the visitors on site if there is a need for.

At ITMA Asia 2021, Oerlikon will present the next generation of an automatic texturing solution with up to 25 % energy saving and up to 30 % higher production speed, easy maintenance and best yarn quality. The core of this machine, the socalled EvoCooler, will be shown as an exhibit in combination with digital solutions like AIM4DTY. In the field of high-precision flow control solutions components, the two new gear metering pumps developments for the production of aramid and spandex will be presented as well.

Following the European Commission’s update of the 2020 New Industrial Strategy: ‘’Building a stronger Single Market for Europe’s Recovery’’, the European Social Partners for the Textile, Clothing, Leather, and Footwear (TCLF) sectors came together to call for support via a dedicated strategy.  The Strategy aims to help guide the TCLF industries through the current green and digital transition, while facing tough global competition, stressing the need to safeguard the industries and protect jobs in Europe.

On 25 May, employers’ and workers’ representatives for the European TCLF sectors met with the European Commission to discuss the current challenges facing the TCLF industries and potential EU action to help support the sectors and their workers.  Following discussions on the terrible impact of COVID-19 on the sectors and the need for a strong EU action, the Joint Statement: ‘’The future industrial strategy of the EU Textiles Ecosystem (TCLF sectors)’’ was adopted.

The Joint Statement highlights the need for a dedicated strategy with support at national and EU level to help the TCLF sectors survive following the COVID-19 pandemic, while they continue to face tough, and, sometimes unfair, global competition. The Social Partners of the TCLF industries fully support the EU’s ambitions for a green and digital transition of the sectors, but insist on concrete European measures to help the industries transform while the continues to suffer from an unlevel global playing field.

Specific joint demands include: full engagement with Social Partners in both the recovery and the transition of the industries, support for the EU Pact for Skills for the relevant ecosystem, a revision of the GSP which doesn’t negatively impact the sectors and its workers, support to decarbonise the sectors, careful consideration of the Due Diligence Legislation and quality dialogue with Social Partners ahead of the EU Sustainable Products Initiative and the Consumer Agenda to ensure that all policy gaps are addressed. Special attention must also be given to the forthcoming EU Textiles Strategy which should fully represent the needs of the EU’s entire textiles ecosystem.

The PERFORMANCE DAYS summer edition took place as a Digital Fair Week from May 17 to 21, 2021. By extending the event to an entire week of the fair, the PERFORMANCE DAYS team, in cooperation with the Functional Fabric Fair by PERFORMANCE DAYS, was able to provide even more opportunities for intensive networking and interactive exchange for industry insiders to catch up on the latest innovations and participate in exciting expert talks, supplier workshops and panel discussions.

Informative, innovative and international: new sourcing platform THE LOOP
The Digital Fair Week was introduced for the first time at the summer edition as part of PERFORMANCE DAYS LOOPS. The sourcing platform was launched in the first half of 2021 together with US Partner Functional Fabric Fair by PERFORMANCE DAYS. With much success, as proven by the great enthusiasm shown by exhibitors, trade fair visitors and fabric manufacturers. The MARKETPLACE area, which showcased some 10.000 products and around 400 curated, sustainable fabrics and accessories from more than 170 international exhibitors, enjoyed particular popularity as part of the Digital Fair.

Another extremely popular and particularly well-attended attraction was the 3D FORUM, which tested hand-selected fabrics for their material properties as part of the digital fair week, to be visualized ultimately as a 3D scan.
Also for the spring/summer 2023 season, the jury presented two awards for outstanding fabrics – so in addition to the presentation of the PERFORMANCE AWARD, won by Trenchant Textiles, the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD was presented to the winner, Utenos Trikotazas.

Professional, versatile and informative: Program with Expert Talks
A total of 17 live talks from 30+ speakers followed by a question-and-answer session, under the guidance of moderator and freelancer Astrid Schlüchter, formed the basis of the digital fair supporting program from May 17 to 19. All talks, webinars and panel discussions are available on demand via THE LOOP platform.

The PERFORMANCE DAYS Team has once again succeeded in providing the industry with an almost real trade fair experience despite being held digitally. Via the Digital Fair Platform, which was activated explicitly for the trade fair week, trade fair visitors can enter into interactive exchange, including matchmaking and networking activities.

The premiere of the Functional Textiles Shanghai by PERFORMANCE DAYS fair takes place in Shanghai in September 28-29 as well as in Portland in October 27-28, 2021, with the planned hybrid event in Munich scheduled for December 1 and 2, 2021.

"ROICA™ new identity is the ultimate upgrade and milestone of the brand’s evolution path which brings together and merges performance, innovation and responsible imprint. ROICA™ strategic commitment is built on two main pillars that meet value driven consumer’s expectations: first, continuous R&D and innovation activities focusing on new contemporary stretch functionalities with the highest integration of sustainability. Second, developing synergies and partnerships with leading responsible innovators throughout the whole value chain from throwsters down to consumers, people and companies sharing the same goals", declares Shinichiro Haga, Senior Executive Manager of ROICA Division.

ROICA™ identity will be activated in all its communication tools and channels, such as a renovated website and social media presence.

Balanced geometries, calibrating color and different anatomical details: the visual identity is then declined in 5 different designs, each for one of the 5 applications that can be enhanced by ROICA™ yarns: ACTIVATION for performative sportswear garments, AQUA for smooth swimwear, STYLE#FIT for casual wear and athleisure, ESSENTIALS for next to skin lingerie and underwear and LEGWEAR for stylish hosiery. A complete wardrobe.

The company also created and introduced a branding policy indicating the allowed blends for their smart yarns belonging to the unique ROICA Eco-Smart™ family for complete transparency and transparent authentic communication.

Constant investments in R&D, people and technology allowed the company to engineer agile, multi-facetted and sustainable stretch yarns which redefine the new circularity, delivering the style, support and finish, trusted to match the performance demands and ambitions of the new generation contemporary consumer.