From the Sector

C.L.A.S.S. discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how smart materials are able to deliver eco hi-tech valuable innovations. 

Five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Among the first adopters of E.C.O. Kosmos shines Gilberto Calzolari, a luxury prêt-à-porter brand Made in Italy with a responsible soul, whose style is represented by the demi-couture dress: fresh, glamorous and romantic. Precious fabrics, complemented by the highest quality in production techniques and tailoring craftsmanship, bear the hallmarks of a brand with a strong identity that is in tune with the needs of contemporary living and reclaims the values of environmental sustainability as well as elegance and excellence typical of luxury Made in Italy. Supported by the CNMI Fashion Trust due to its environmental committment and unique design, the brand chose two materials of the E.C.O. KOSMOS cross-collection for the SS 2020 presented during MFW: the E.C.O. AURORA 50% AMNI SOUL ECO® -50% Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified Cotton canvas and the E.C.O. SONICA Newlife™ stretch satin.

Closed: the German brand, founded in1978, focuses on great designs, small details and pure quality to create understated and advanced denim looks totally handmade in Italy. Closed selected the new amazing Candiani ReLast line, the range of market fresh responsible denim products whose objective is to introduce a 100% transformed innovative solution. The partnership between ROICA™ and Candiani generated a very special ROICA™ yarn realized only for Candiani. A premium stretch yarn that is boasting a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 4 certification, thanks to its high percentage of recycled content and appropriated process of transformation.

Within the premium brand adoptions of Bemberg™ shines Martin Greenfield, one of the world's most renowned tailor company. The company, founded in 1977 by Martin Greenfield, realizes hand tailored men’s clothing to meet the requirements of innovative designers, specialty retailers, costume designers, stylists and individuals. For finest made-to-order as well as made-to-measure suits,100% built by hand in their Brooklyn Factory, they choose Bemberg™ Yarn Dyed Lining produced in Italy and Japan for its soft versatility, unique precious touch and exquisite comfort.

My.Suit: Since My.Suit was founded in 2008 in NYC, their philosophy has been simple: provide their clients with a better way to buy a suit.  Their made-to-measure suits and tuxedos offer a better fit than traditional off-the-rack alternatives by accommodating as many different body types as possible, and can be made in a variety of fabric and style options to suit individual needs.  My.Suit utilizes a vertical business model: fabric mill, suit manufacturing, and retail locations, to provide a quick delivery time at an attractive price point. My.Suit has been using Bemberg™ lining to add style and comfort to their suit jackets for over a decade.  With a wide range of colors and designs, Bemberg lining complements their extensive fabric selection and helps us to create visually stunning suits that feel great and provides a personalized option to their clients.

un-sanctioned™ is an innovation-driven performance running apparel brand newly launched in September, 2019; founded on the belief that it’s time for running to give back to the environment all runners take so much joy from.  In partnership with Miti-Spa, un-sanctioned™ has developed and launched with two initial sustainable performance running fabrics called [ BottleKnit™ ] — a 100% recycled polyester made from plastic bottles. And [ WasteKnit™] — a 100% upcycled polyamide made from industrial waste blended with ROICA™ EF yarn for uncompromising smart stretch performance.

• A naturally advanced collection, a cutting-edge coloration technology, and a brand-new collaborative business model.
• TINTEX stands out at PERFORMANCE DAYS, the functional fabric fair for the sourcing in sports, work and corporate wear.
• Performance Days, Munich, November 13th -14th, 2019 –booth C08 / hall C1

The leading jersey manufacturer brings a new holistic and sustainable approach spun from the company’s DNA and woven in the mission to create Naturally Advanced fabrics.

The WEME collection - A/W 20/21
The new statement collection goes beyond intellectual and spiritual individual needs to embrace a communal vision blurring ‘we’ and ‘me’, ‘conscious’ and unconscious’, responsible innovation and creativity. Developed around the concept sub-collections ID, Superego and EGO, the range comes in electric and active tones and combines smart ingredients and processes to drive innovation by harnessing the company’s unique dyeing and finishing expertise.

The new fabrics are made from a mix of new generation fibers that enhance free movement such as REFIBRA™ by Lenzing, Q-NOVA® by Fulgar and the unique GRS certified premium stretch ROICA™ EF.  The smartcel™ powered ID sub-collection is defined by striped structures that simulate flaws on initially smooth and perfected surfaces and provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects thanks to the inclusion of zinc oxide, provides soothing, anti-inflammatory effects. The “EGO” selection comes in rich purples, calm lilacs and feminine yellows and features natural fibers such as organic wool. The “Superego” is available in unique styles and colours, achieved thanks to Colorzen® and the Naturally Clean® finishing. Together these enhance the natural beauty of cotton and cellulosics eliminating harsh treatments and optimizing clean surfaces with vivid colors, and an exquisitely smooth hand feel. Transformed materials take such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi take the lead saving up to 77.9% in water compared with regular cottons.

COLORAU®
TINTEX’ cutting edge color technology which received the Sustainable Solution award in the May 2019 edition of Techtextil debuts in Munich. COLORAU®  was created with a Portuguese consortium constituted by premium realities and gives life to responsibly colored fabrics with antimicrobial properties, using natural dyes extracted from different types of natural plants resources that do not use salt in the production.

COLORAU® uses only compounds of natural origin such as thyme, boldo, peppermint, chestnut and gambier in the production of functional and sustainable textiles in a variety of fibers such as cotton, lyocell and wool. An eco-efficient and low temperature surface treatment improves the affinity between the textile substrate and these natural compounds. The technology features a selection of “performing” extracts for appropriate color fastness to light and washing as well as color durability and antimicrobial functionality.

CO.LAB

TINTEX is proud to announce CO.LAB, a smart and collaborative business model and a totally new supply chain developed in coordination and with the support of C.L.A.S.S.. The first sustainable and PETA-Approved collections are 100% traceable without compromising on quality and style. As co-leader and founding actor, TINTEX has invited Becri, Confetil and Pedrosa & Rodrigues, 3 leading companies, each producing specialized garment styles. The new collections are:

1. The ECOPERFORMER by TINTEX with Confetil collection meets the values of millennials and generation Z consumers. Sustainable, multitasking, gender neutral and designed to fit contemporary urban lifestyle. The collection comprises modern soft sports garment with fully transparent innovation values. The range flexes its muscles with the best sustainable and high-performative materials for comfort, ease and style. All selected fabrics are PeTA APPROVED VEGAN. Designed to win.
2. ‘LEGACY H20’ by TINTEX with Becri is 100% traceable and focuses on responsible water-management.
3. ‘SENSING SMARTS’ by TINTEX with Pedrosa & Rodrigues, a next-to-skin soft and sensual range of materials enhancing wellbeing and comfort while harnessing an innovative and responsible way of using chemical products for a greener and safest future.

As of October 1st, 2019, the Netherlands-based global market leading manufacturer of advanced automation equipment and solutions for composites, Airborne, strengthens its activities particularly in German speaking countries, the so-called D-A-CH region, comprising Germany, Austria and Switzerland with Dr. Michael Effing from AMAC. The Dutch company is looking for specialised partnerships to develop and deepen its international business opportunities in the aerospace and automotive markets.

Airborne’s focus is on high-end composite components, at high production rates at radically low conversion costs. Airborne is building up a suite of automated solutions for the manufacturing of composites with the aim to radically reduce costs and touch labour, minimize the footprint and use of material, and improve the time to market for their clients. The company offers i.a. solutions in automated honeycomb potting, automated kitting and automated lamination of thermosets and thermoplastics. In order to develop new business opportunities in the D-A-CH region for the end-markets aerospace and automotive, Airborne is cooperating with AMAC to accelerate the process of locating suitable partnerships.

Dr. Effing, CEO of AMAC GmbH confirms: "As a first step for the establishment of Airborne on the German market, we just signed their membership at AZL in Aachen which will help to connect with over 80 companies and latest research developments. In the framework of theirstrategy to strengthen the supply to the aircraft sector, Airborne will also exhibit at the Aircraft Interiors Expo in Hamburg from March 31st to April 2nd 2020.”

Notus Composites has achieved a major manufacturing milestone when the company’s one millionth m2 of fire retardant (FR) epoxy prepreg was shipped from its state-of-the-art facility in the UAE this month. Notus are supplying FR materials for several high profile infrastructure projects in the Middle East, with this latest batch of material being supplied for the new composite Museum of the Future in Dubai.

The one million m2 milestone was reached during a recent production run of Notus’ EPFR-609 glass fibre reinforced epoxy prepreg - a user friendly, long out life, FR prepreg designed for low pressure/vacuum curing at temperatures from 85-120˚C. EPFR-609 can also be supplied as a resin film or as Notus N1-Preg, the company’s versatile single sided prepreg product format. Having set up in 2015 but grown considerably in the past 4 years, Notus Composites has completed an extensive program of testing at well-known fire research laboratories in the Middle East and Europe with particular focus on large scale tests to verify material behavior as part of a complete wall or façade system.

As a result, Notus Composites EPFR-609 prepreg and NE11-FR surface film is the only epoxy prepreg system to have passed the NFPA 285 exterior and curtain wall test and to have achieved an impressive B2,s1,d0 rating when testing to the European EN13501-1 standard. In addition, these materials have been approved by the UAE’s Dubai Civil Defense (one of the Middle East’s leaders in building fire safety coding) who completed a program of factory inspections and production audits as well as witnessing fire tests themselves.

• Bangladesh’s biggest denim expo takes place 5-6 November
• The show runs concurrently with the Sustainable Apparel Forum Bangladesh
• From 4-6 November, Bangladesh becomes the perfect meeting point for stakeholders in the global apparel industry

DHAKA - Responsibility is the theme of the 11th Bangladesh Denim Expo which takes place on 5th and 6th November at International Convention City in Bashundhara, Dhaka. The event, now firmly established as one of the world’s leading denim trade shows, runs alongside the Bangladesh Sustainable Apparel Forum.

Bangladesh Denim Expo

Around 100 exhibitors from 11 countries, including host Bangladesh, will participate in this year’s denim expo. Other participating countries are china, Japan, Italy, India, Singapore, Brazil, Spain, Pakistan, Turkey and Germany.

H&M Group is collaborating with Bangladesh Denim Expo for the forthcoming 11th edition of the event and a number of guest speakers will be present from the company, including Pierre Borjesson, head of sustainability, global production. Other guest speakers include Andrew Olah, the founder of Kingpins Denim show, Alice Tonello, R&D director with the Tonello Group, world renowned denim designer, Piero Turk and Jordi Juani, Asia regional director with Jeanologia.

Through a series of product displays, presentations, seminar sessions & panel discussions, the Expo will encourage healthy debate and interaction among exhibitors and visitors to champion a more responsible denim industry. One of these, of course, is sustainability and within this sits the issue of responsibility – an overriding theme of this year’s event. Denim manufacture faces huge challenges with regards its social and environmental responsibility, with production techniques having potentially far-reaching ramifications for the environment as well as people involved in the production process.

However, the industry and its supply chain are making impressive progress on these issues with Bangladesh – now the world’s largest producer of denim – leading the way in terms of addressing some of the sustainability challenges relating to denim production, including excessive use of water and chemicals. Mostafiz Uddin is the organiser of Bangladesh Denim Expo. Uddin has watched with interest the evolution of the denim industry, with each Expo marking continued and gradual progress being made by the more progressive players in the industry.

Uddin says: “The way that business and product development is conducted can have far reaching consequences on the environment, on the people that make the product and the product’s end use & life-span. “It is the duty of all stakeholders in the apparel industry to acknowledge this responsibility and to analyse our business practices, for the benefit of all.” Emphasising the theme of responsibility within Denim Expo is the fact that revenues from the expo support the running and presentation of the Sustainable Apparel Forum.

Sustainable Apparel Forum

The Sustainable Apparel Forum (SAF) is the biggest annual sustainable apparel event in Bangladesh. Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) along with Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) as co-organiser will jointly carry out the 2nd edition of the SAF on 5th Nov 2019.

This is the second edition of the Sustainable Apparel Forum, with the first-ever forum held in 2017 in Dhaka. The objective of this year’s forum is accelerating the momentum of sustainability in Bangladesh apparel industry.

The forum will see more than 50 speakers gathered from Bangladesh and overseas sharing expert opinions across five panel discussions covering current issues in the country’s apparel industry. These include human resources, transparency in business, water conservation, purchasing practices, sustainable chemical management, waste management, circular economy in textiles and climate change to name a few.

Additionally, the conference will host several knowledge building technical presentations from renowned organisations which will cover different issues relating to sustainability, including waste management, protection of the environment and better working conditions.

Speakers at the show include Md. Shahriar Alam, MP, Honourable State Minister, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Bangladesh, H. E. Benoit Préfonatine High Commissioner, High Commission of Canada, Bangladesh, and Dr. Rubana Huq President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers’ and Exporters’ Association, Sheikh Fazle Fahim, President, Federation of Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce & Industries, Pierre Börjesson, Head of Sustainability – Global Production, H&M Group, Tuomo Poutiainen, Country Director, International Labor Organization, Peter McCallister, Executive Director, Ethical Trading Initiative and H.E. Winnie Estrup Petersen Ambassador, Embassy of Denmark, Bangladesh.

Prior to this year’s conference, the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh and the Sweden Embassy in Bangladesh will also co-host two roundtable discussion in collaboration with BAE and in association with BGMEA on 4 November, 2019, while H&M, Better Work Bangladesh and C&A Foundation are partners in the event.
The conference will be followed by showcasing different innovative, sustainable & best work practices in RMG manufacturing factories in Bangladesh. Following the discussions, a series of recommendations will be made, and a Sustainability Roadmap for the Bangladesh apparel industry will be formulated.

This year’s SAF promises to be the biggest yet. Added by Mr Mostafiz Uddin in the recent press briefing for the event: “The title for this year’s Sustainable Apparel Forum is enabling sustainability through policy and leadership. The time for talking on sustainability issues is over. It is now time for actions. That’s why the focus of this year’s show is on practical, pragmatic actions the textile industry can adopt to improve its environmental footprint.”

Swiss textile innovator HeiQ partners with Twinery to significantly reduce waste in their apparel production supply chain.

Apparel manufacturing is the second largest polluting industry in the world. While there are many solutions to this problem, Bodyline has taken the lead to focus on developing a low impact supply chain by reducing energy and waste across the entire value chain and develop No Waste Apparel – Truecycled.

Two steps in this supply chain lifecycle include improving the dyeing and finishing stages. To improve the dyeing stage by using less water and energy and save CO2 during the polyester dyeing process, Truecycled has implemented HeiQ Clean Tech for more efficient and ecological processing of textiles.

“Aiming to improve the everyday products of textiles by making them more functional, comfortable and sustainable, HeiQ is proud to partner with Bodyline on their Truecycled project”, says Carlo Centonze, Chief Executive Officer at HeiQ.

In its 19th year, the international textile industry exhibition ShanghaiTex will take place from 25 to 28 November 2019. Saurer Twisting Solutions would be delighted to welcome customers and visitors to Saurer's Stand D40 in Hall E1. The focus is on the highly efficient FusionTwister for staple fibre yarns.

The FusionTwister sets the benchmark for the cost-effective production of two-for-one twisted staple fibre yarns. In order to achieve this, we have taken into account the three main factors affecting our customers’ profitability, namely energy, economics and ergonomics.

The machines’ reliably low energy consumption is an important characteristic for decision-makers to take into account. Achieved by means of an optimised spindle drive as well as a great variety of spindle and feeding sizes for all kinds of applications, it is the main element in the equation of production costs.

Power consumption and costs are closely related, with energy efficiency positively influencing the return on investment, since it is daily challenge to process the maximum feeding weight while keeping electricity usage at a comfortable level.

The machine’s short set-up times, fast air threading and easy handling were key considerations with regard to optimising ergonomics.

• Interfilière Paris, 6th-8th July 2019, booth D60

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable innovation, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Parisian tradeshow for lingerie with a range of innovations capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality. "Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).
A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

A range that culminates today in the launch of an athleisure and sporty-chic capsule collection that perfectly fit the contemporary modern wardrobe, result of a qualified and totally traceable supply chain, from yarn up to garment, based on design, sustainability and performance.

Of major interest is the fact that the Iluna fashion R&D based its strategic choice for the AI2020/2021 on the extension of the offer with new Black label’s developments between lace and embroidery, the premium R&D line.

The range of new Ultralight multicolor laces offers jacquardtronic and textronic 4 or 5 colours galloons with a 3D effect. The change of the color of thread in the background as well as in the design gives life to unique coordinated solutions for creatives. The match between expectations of brands and retailers are met always keeping as a priority the contemporary design, that is integrated to unique strategy committed to responsibility both at corporate and product level.

To ILUNA smart innovation is not just a project, its space at Interfilière where visitors will have the chance to discover the new collection and above all to experience and touch latest boundaries of lace smart innovations pursued staying true to the values the brand. Iluna team is pleased to welcome you with a special cadeaux created in collaboration with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei.

Re.VerSo™ will be on hand at Première Vision to present refined and innovative materials that inspire creativity and infuse technology. Worth to highlight, the fact that, at the beginning of 2019, Re.VerSo™ has been selected as one of the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking project of the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, thanks to the value it bears in the field of responsible innovation. Representing excellence as the result of a culture of Made in Italy traditions, combined with a new vision of Smart Innovation, Re.VerSo™, the advanced supply chain, integrated, transparent and traceable, 100% Made in Italy, covers the woven textiles market through the unique offer of A. Stelloni Collection by Mapel.

For next season, A.Stelloni Collection by Mapel offers even more Re.VerSo™ solutions with strong focus on noble fibres such as Re.VerSo™ Baby Camel and Re.VerSo™ Cashmere for coats and jackets. New finishes, draps, streaks, velours and, mostly, Re.VerSo™ Baby Camel developments, as the company is becoming leader for the sustainable Camel market.

• Circularity at the centre

PG DENIM, the designer project by Paolo Gnutti, is ready for several important events scheduled for the autumn with ground-breaking interpretations and a new – increasingly green – business model. The occasion is its participation in the Blue Zone at Munich Fabric Start (Munich, 3-5 September 2019), a space which is increasingly often reserved for companies and projects with a high innovation rate in the world of denim.

PG DENIM at the German exhibition will be presenting important product innovations, but most notably new concepts developed for the S/S 2021 season. The focus here is on circularity, seen from a dual perspective: the product with the no longer traditional alternation of seasons, and a sustainabilityoriented approach.

Seasons meet

The new PG DENIM approach is geared towards overlapping seasonality, with less and less marked separations between projects dedicated to the spring-summer and fall-winter lines. The collections by PG DENIM can thus be increasingly defined as a “mix of products without seasonality”. Its focal points are innovation alongside the concept behind the initial idea, as opposed to just the season. This trend, explains Paolo Gnutti, CEO and R&D Head at PG DENIM, is also due to registering the fact that seasonality – in terms of environment and trends – is changing at an increasingly rapid pace. As a response to this situation, the choice has been made to design new collections starting from macro-trends and presenting fabrics for garments which are “easy to wear”, suitable for both warm and cold temperatures, in a true melting pot  of weights and sizes.

The lines for the previous season are thus reintroduced and restyled playing with weights and sizes, within a range where flock meets ultra-light fabric bases, or where vinyl is combined with typically summer weights which shift the fabric towards the world of “paper” with crispy touches, resulting in extraordinarily lightweight and strong items at the same time. Also the GARAGE DENIM has been upgraded with fluid and smoothed touched for garments which are easy to wear and have a strong personality.

Partnership with The Denim Window

The PG DENIM season is also enhanced by its partnership in The Denim Window project, which has resulted in a limited series of Creative Capsule Collections, derived from the idea of bringing together companies which had already worked or were working together, trying to highlight – through small capsule collections – the best of what had already been produced by traditional businesses. This has resulted  in three trailblazing capsules, two of which designed in partnership by PG DENIM and companies the likes of M&J Group, Cadica and Greenwear. Several copies of these collections have been made to travel the world, and – after the official presentation in July – they will have a special corner, The Denim Window, in the Bluezone at Munich Fabric Start.

The “Circular Programme” and the five “Rs” of sustainability

Also the PG DENIM approach to accountability in production processes has been enhanced by implementing the “Circular Programme”. As part of our corporate vision, Italian-style production is combined with compliance with what have become known as “the five Rs”, that is to say key concepts underlying the design and manufacturing model: Reduce (everything you are not using), Repair (everything you can), Reuse (anything available to you), Recycle (all that is left), Respect (everything around you).

This is the philosophy underlying each individual process at PG DENIM, and leading to new specific programmes which have been its business focus over the past few months:

1) Reducing the environmental impact during the fabric dyeing phase in reaction and sulphurbased processes, where the use of chemicals has been reduced by 40%, water consumption by 50% and CO2 emissions by 60%, which has also resulted in better penetration and a better result in the crocking process. This has led to producing 10 new articles which will be launched on the market.

2) Recycling all waste from processing and after use, creating a range of garments where cotton is actually obtained from regenerating these two kinds of waste. In this regard, PG DENIM for now is the only company on the market able to process with a percentage of recycled product exceeding 60% of the total, whereas the average for this kind of manufacturing is generally about 35%.

As regards regular production, on the other hand, PG DENIM follows stringent international standards, including Dtox, Reach and Gots in all its processing phases, also using BCI cottons and the Organic Cotton Standard for raw materials. Last but not least, it was recently awarded the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification.