From the Sector

REVECOL® (Recycled Vegetable Cooking Oil) represents a new generation of textile chemical auxiliaries, which are high-performing and obtained from vegetable exhausted cooking oil.

Chemical auxiliaries play a crucial role in several stages of the textile production cycle, from material preparation to dyeing and finishing, but represent a complex challenge from the point of view of reducing environmental impact. Herein lies the revolutionary aspect of REVECOL® by ERCA: for the first time, not just one product, but a complete range of auxiliary chemicals is available that meets the criteria of circularity.

The result of ERCA's continuous research, REVECOL® are in fact born from critical waste materials (exhausted vegetable oils), which, thanks to an environmentally and safety-friendly manufacturing process, are transformed into a line of innovative chemical auxiliaries destined for the entire textile industry and its various applications: from underwear to home textiles.

EVECOL® by ERCA has obtained several certifications – GRS, RCS, listed into ZDHC Chemical Gateway, bluesign® and GOTS, and are also finalizing the third-party certified PCF (Product Carbon Footprint), - as well as various international recognitions – first prize RESPONSIBLE CARE®, in Italy, from Federchimica, inclusion in the BAT (Best Available Techniques) document from the European Community.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg) launches its biodegradable fusible cotton shirt interlinings range 46xx. With this innovation, the world’s leading specialist in woven, knitted, weft and nonwoven interlinings reduces its impact on the environment and supports customers in achieving their own sustainability objectives. In Asia, the series is marketed under the name 42xx series.

Approved biodegradability and non-toxicity by Hohenstein Laboratories
The new Freudenberg fusible interlinings for shirts and blouses have been developed in such a way that they are harmless to people and the environment at the end of their life cycle. Germany’s independent Hohenstein Laboratories performed biodegradation tests on the 46xx series, based on the Hohenstein method which draws on DIN EN ISO 11721-2:2003 and EN ISO 846, and approved it as biodegradable and ecotoxicologically harmless. The tests by Hohenstein showed no negative effects on either the germination of garden cress nor on earthworms in the acute toxicity test.

Energy-saving interlining
The new biodegradable shirt interlinings also show great potential for energy saving, as the fusing can be performed at a low temperature. Concretely, this means that the resulting temperature between the upper fabric and the shirt interlining during fusing is only 127°C which is significantly lower than the commonly used temperature of 143°C. Certified to OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 Class II for successfully testing for no harmful substances, the shirt interlinings are washable at up to 40°C and resistant to dry cleaning. In addition, it has also passed all ecological-toxicological tests and is a perfect end-of-life cycle solution.

Product details and availability
The products in range 46xx are available in Europe in the color white and the following weight classes: 4605 (90g/m2), 4616 (150g/m2) and 4618 (55g/m2). The adhesive of the interlinings consists of a 100% degradable bio-polymer. The shirt interlinings are ideal for reinforcing shirt and blouse collars, cuffs and plackets used in fashion, leisure and business clothing. The biodegradable, non-toxic interlinings are particularly important for labels with an ecologically sustainable claim.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK participated in the “Green Textile and Innovation Technology Forum and Exhibition” in Hong Kong, taking a small booth to support the event and FET’s official agent in the region, Chemtax. This was the first in a series of international exhibitions that FET will be attending in 2023.

The interactive exhibition was organised by the Hong Kong General Chambers of Textiles, with over 20 industrial experts and 300 guests in discussion forums and meetings. The major themes explored were sustainable solutions, new technologies and future trends in green textiles. The region is committed to improved sustainability in textiles, with China in particular setting ambitious targets for high performance fibre self-sufficiency, developments in biodegradable material and increased production capacity in recycled fibre.

This fits perfectly with FET’s ethos, having long been a leading exponent of sustainability in fibre technology. The FET range of laboratory and pilot Melt Spinning extrusion lines is suited for both process and end product development of sustainable materials, enabling customers to undertake process development in-house. All FET systems are designed to be material efficient, can be bespoke designed and offer both flexibility and a high level of processing capability.

KT®, a kinesiology tape brand, launched KT Tape PRO Oxygen – the first kinesiology tape to feature CELLIANT® Infrared Technology from Hologenix. KT Tape PRO Oxygen is designed to increase cellular oxygenation and promote muscle support during physical activity.

The CELLIANT fine mineral powder is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals. Printed on the tape’s surface, it converts body heat into full-spectrum infrared energy. This delivers improved cellular oxygenation where tape is applied, bringing more oxygen to the cells and increasing local circulation. Thus, KT Tape PRO Oxygen premium kinesiology tape is super-charged to support muscles and joints through physical activity.

KT Tape PRO Oxygen was designed to allow athletes pushing their physical limits to optimize athletic performance while staying healthy. KT Tape PRO Oxygen’s elasticity allows for a full range of motion that rigid tapes do not and helps to lift the skin for a temporary increase in local blood flow. PRO Oxygen incorporates high strength water-resistant adhesive and ultrabreathable PRO synthetic fibers making it one of the most durable kinesiology tape products on the market.

Viscose speciality fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres, nonwoven producer Sandler, and hygiene product manufacturer pelzGROUP have jointly developed a new panty liner that is plastic-free according to the European Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD). This innovative solution is a step towards reducing the amount of plastic in hygiene products – and thus also a contribution to tackling the problem of plastic pollution.

According to a UNEP study on marine litter and microplastics, eight million tons of plastic end up in the oceans every year. A significant portion of this pollution comes from single-use plastic products, including conventional period products such as pads or panty liners.

The partnership between the three companies was formed under the Open Innovation principle, which allowed for creative idea exchange and facilitated the development of an innovative product. According to Jessica Zeitler, R&D Specialist at Sandler, “Our collaboration with Kelheim Fibres and pelzGROUP is a great example of how companies can work together to create solutions that benefit both the environment and consumers. We are proud to be part of this project and the opportunities it offers.”

For hygiene product manufacturer pelzGROUP, it is important to combine sustainability and performance to achieve broad acceptance in the market. “Our panty liner meets the strict requirements of the European Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) while also matching the performance of conventional synthetic products. At the same time, our new panty liner has a completely European supply chain. This means short distances and therefore low CO2 emissions, and – especially in times of global disruption – reliability for our customers,” emphasizes Dr. Henning Röttger, Head of Business Development at pelzGROUP.

"Our viscose speciality fibres are an environmentally friendly and high-performance alternative to synthetic materials," says Dominik Mayer, Project Manager Fibre & Application Development at Kelheim Fibres. "They are at the very beginning of the product value chain and yet have an enormous impact on the functionality of the end product. Open innovation allows us to bring all partners in the value chain to the table, to find the best solution together in a very short time and bring it to commercialisation - the collaboration with Sandler and pelzGROUP is an important milestone in our AHP journey."

Absorbent hygiene products such as diapers, sanitary pads, and incontinence products are an integral part of our daily lives. However, most of these products contain synthetic components and contribute to the global plastic waste problem. The search for alternatives is becoming increasingly urgent. The catch is that only innovations that offer the same performance and reliability as conventional products can be successful in the market. After all, no one wants to compromise in such a sensitive area as personal hygiene.

Kelheim Fibres is currently working on various development projects to design fully biobased AHP (absorbent hygiene product) concepts that do not compromise on performance. In this area, the company continues to focus on its wood-based specialty fibres, which the tampon industry has trusted for decades. However, the requirements for AHP products differ, as each layer must fulfil a specific function.

To meet these requirements, Kelheim Fibres has developed a range of functionalized specialty fibres, including hydrophobic Olea, trilobal Galaxy®, and the hollow fibre Bramante. These specialty fibres ensure optimal results in every layer of the AHP product.

All of Kelheim's fibres are manufactured from 100% wood pulp derived from certified and sustainably managed forests. They are fully biodegradable - microorganisms in soil and seawater ensure that no residues remain.

A current example of such a partner project is the development of a completely bio-based panty liner with the nonwovens manufacturer Sandler and the hygiene products manufacturer pelzGROUP, which is due to be launched on the market shortly.

In addition to new projects in the field of biobased disposable and reusable solutions, Kelheim will also present its tried and tested fibres at INDEX™23, for example for tampons or flushable wipes.

Lotus Teknik Tekstil A.Ş., Türkiye, has successfully started up a complete line to produce nonwoven roll goods for biodegradable, plastic-free wet wipes. This line has been delivered, installed, and commissioned by international technology group ANDRITZ.

The neXline wetlace CP line combines the benefits of two technologies: wetlaid and spunlace. Natural fibers are processed gently to create a high-performance and sustainable wipe. This next-generation wipe, called Newipe®, combines the benefits of spunlace fabric, in particular remarkable strength in all directions, with the biodegradability and softness of a WetlaceTM fabric. It is produced with a lower carbon footprint, has a low lint rate, and does not generate dust during production.

Lotus Teknik Tekstil A.Ş. is a leading nonwoven roll good producer and a member of a group company. The group company consists of 4 companies that operate end-to-end manufacturing including nonwovens, cardboard packings, plastics, and finished wet wipe products. Headquartered in Istanbul, Sapro is the leader in Türkiye and one of the four leaders in the manufacturing of wet wipes in Europe. The company produces, converts, and supplies 161 million sheets of wipes per day for personal, household, and industrial use, exporting 70% of its production to 65 countries all over the world. Sustainability plays a prominent role in Sapro’s business strategy.

The acquisition of the automotive business of Borgers, announced in January 2023, has been completed with effect from April 1, 2023, following receipt of all antitrust approvals. As a result, Autoneum now operates 67 production facilities worldwide and employs around 16 100 people in 24 countries. With the acquisition of the long-established German company, Autoneum is further expanding its global market leadership in sustainable acoustic and thermal management of vehicles. For the planned capital increase of around CHF 100 million for the long-term financing of the acquisition, the shareholders approved the creation of a capital band.

The purchase agreement signed on January 6, 2023, to acquire the assets of the insolvent Borgers companies by Autoneum could be completed. As a result, Autoneum will take over the assets of the Borgers companies in Germany and the shares in the subsidiaries in France, Poland, Sweden, Spain, the Czech Republic, the United Kingdom and the USA as well as in the company in Shanghai, China, with effect from April 1, 2023. As already communicated, the enterprise value paid amounts to EUR 117 million.

The product and customer range of Borgers Automotive, the specialist for textile acoustics protection, insulation and trim for vehicles, ideally complements Autoneum’s sustainable product portfolio. Particularly with the wheel arch liner and trunk lining product lines as well as the truck business, Autoneum’s global presence offers further potential for profitable growth also outside Europe. In addition, Borgers has more than 150 years of experience in recycling textile materials. In the 2022 financial year, the Borgers Group – excluding the mechanical engineering division which was already sold in the summer of 2022 – generated expected annual revenue of around EUR 700 million and employed around 4 500 employees worldwide. Autoneum has agreed new pricing and delivery terms with Borgers’ customers, which will ensure both sustainable profitability and the further development of technologies and processes.

From April 1, the former Borgers sites in Germany will be part of Autoneum Germany GmbH, which has been in existence for many years. The other subsidiaries worldwide will gradually be renamed Autoneum.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., will participate in the 40th Session of SPINEXPO in Shanghai, China from 12th - 14th April 2023.

At SPINEXPO, SHIMA SEIKI will offer visitors a choice between its "SDS®-ONE APEX4" apparel design system and its "APEXFiz®" subscription-based design software. Whereas SDS®-ONE APEX4 is offered as an all-in-one proprietary hardware + software package, APEXFiz® is subscription-based design software that can be installed on customers' individual computers. Both SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® software support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. When a design is approved for production, knitting data is automatically generated for converting to machine data, allowing smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between studio and factory. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability while digitally transforming the fashion supply chain.

Also on display at SPINEXPO will be SHIMA SEIKI's "yarnbank®," an online web service for searching and viewing the latest yarns, developed with cooperation from yarn companies from around the world. Registered users can download yarn data for free, for use in fabric simulation and virtual sampling on APEXFiz®, avoiding the need to scan yarn on their own. By using yarn that is used in actual production, designers and apparel companies can furthermore rest assured that the simulations created using yarn from yarnbank® are not merely realistic images but accurate representations using yarn that can actually be purchased and used in production. With yarnbank®, the entire supply chain from yarn companies and apparel companies to knit manufacturers can be connected digitally.

SHIMA SEIKI will also display the latest collection of its knit samples, including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear that is knit in its entirety on the machine without the need for linking or sewing afterward. Together with virtual sampling performed on APEXFiz®, WHOLEGARMENT® offers smart production for realizing a sustainable fashion supply chain.

International technology group ANDRITZ has delivered, installed, and commissioned a mechanical textile recycling line and an airlay line at Novafiber’s nonwovens production mill in Palín, Guatemala. Both lines have been successfully operating since December 2022.

The recycling line – the second tearing line ANDRITZ supplied to Novafiber – processes post-industrial textile waste from Central America. The recycled fibers feed the latest ANDRITZ Flexiloft airlay line, which produces nonwoven end-products for the bedding and furniture industries – a true example of a circular textile-to-nonwoven approach. The production process ensures complete material use as a state-of-the-art edge trim recycling system returns any waste directly to the tearing and/or airlay line.

This combination of ANDRITZ tearing and airlay lines allows Novafiber to process large amounts of post-industrial garments, controlling the supply chain from raw material to final product. In addition, it enables energy savings and a reduced carbon footprint due to the reduction of shipments.

Based in Palín, Novafiber is a leading company in Guatemala for producing nonwovens from post-industrial textile waste for both the local market and export.