From the Sector

It’s hard to find skilled operators for spinning mills in Vietnam. Rapid industrialization is creating competition for young talents and many workers choose roles in other industries. Customer Tra Ly Hung Yen has found a partner in Trützschler to help mitigate the effects of this labor shortage and enable successful operations. 

Traditionally, yarn manufacturers need many experienced and qualified workers. However, it is difficult to attract and retain these operators. In addition, raw material fluctuations add extra challenges for all spinners. In order to produce yarn with consistent quality, it is necessary to make precise adjustments to the processing system – and this requires trained employees. A major headache for businesses in quality-driven markets like Vietnam. 

Tra Ly is one of those businesses. The company’s success is built on a longstanding reputation for quality, so labor shortages generated a potential threat to its future. The family-owned company mainly produces carded and combed cotton (Ne 20 to Ne 40) through standard and compact spinning methods. It has a production capacity of 60 tons per day, with half of that output exported to China, Pakistan or Bangladesh. To find a solution to its labor shortage, the Tra Ly team contacted its partners at Trützschler. 

The answer from Trützschler: Highly automated, self-optimizing machinery that helps to maintain consistent quality – even when processing raw materials of varying qualities. This reduces the need for manual intervention. As Do Thi Lan Phuong, Director of Tra Ly, points out: “Innovations from Trützschler offer efficient handling that frees up time for our employees. In this way, we are able to cope with labor shortages. These machines enable higher productivity, improved sliver evenness and more energy-efficient manufacturing. And working together with Trützschler is always a great experience because of their deep expertise, can-do attitude and positive energy.” 

Automatized and optimized 

Tra Ly now operates the following advanced technologies from Trützschler: 

• T-SCAN TS-T5: High-quality foreign part separation 
  This foreign part separator uses state-of-the-art sensors and image-processing technology to detect foreign parts like stems, leaf fragments or other waste – and then automatically ejects them to minimize fiber loss. The highly efficient machine is also easy to clean and maintain, even when production is running. 
• The intelligent card TC 19i with T-GO 
  Tra Ly is also benefiting from the TC 19i with T-GO, which is the world’s only proven automatic gap optimizer for carding machines. It increases quality and flexibility by self-adjusting to ensure the best possible carding gap settings in real time, even when raw materials or other production conditions fluctuate. 
• Autoleveller Draw Frame TD-10 
  Automated functions like AUTO DRAFT and OPTI SET enable this draw frame to ensure excellent yarn quality by self-optimizing the break draft and drafting point in real time. These innovations help machine operators to adapt settings for various raw material types. 
• Boosting productivity: The 12-head comber TCO 21XL 
  This machine increases productivity by about 50% because it operates 12 heads instead of a typical eight head setup, while delivering the same excellent quality. Features like COUNT MONITORING perform automatic checks on sliver count variations from a given limit, thus contributing to consistent quality. 

Fit for the future 
Tra Ly recently installed My Mill, Trützschler’s mill monitoring system. Based on real-time data from My Mill, Trützschler experts can conduct digital audits to provide on-site guidance, training and troubleshooting. Trützschler is looking forward to continuing to support Tra Ly. The Vietnamese company is excited about the ongoing collaboration, too. “Working together with Trützschler is always a great experience because of their deep expertise, can-do attitude, and positive energy,” says Do Thi Lan Phuong, Director of Tra Ly.

In the first quarter of 2025, orders for textile machinery recorded by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a sharp decline compared to the same period in 2024, down 29%. The index stood at 41.8 points (base year 2021=100).

The negative result reflects both a significant contraction in the domestic market and a pronounced slowdown abroad. In Italy, orders dropped by 57%, while foreign orders fell by 25%. The index for foreign markets stood at 43.3 points, while the domestic figure dropped to 30.5 points. The order backlog at the end of the quarter ensured 3.6 months of production.

The downturn also continues when compared to the previous quarter (October-December 2024), with overall orders decreasing by 15%.

Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT, commented: “The sector started 2025 on an even weaker footing than it ended 2024. On international markets, the deep uncertainty triggered by last year’s geopolitical tensions has been further worsened by the tariff decisions implemented by the Trump administration. In the US, orders remain at a standstill as the market awaits the next steps from the President. Some glimmers of hope come from the estimates of global export data for textile machinery in the first quarter: China, India, and Pakistan—key markets for technology suppliers—show signs of recovery compared to the same period in 2024.”

In Italy, the situation is even more critical, with the orders index at its lowest level, even surpassing the slump of 2020. “We need to look beyond 2025 and call on the Government to implement targeted, structural incentives for investments in capital goods, with simple procedures that allow companies to access them quickly”, Salvadè noted.

As the Indian textile and apparel sector embraces digitisation, sustainability, smarter production and responsible manufacturing, Gartex Texprocess India emerges as a critical node in this narrative bringing together the textile and garment machinery manufacturers, denim mill owners, digital textile printing technology solution providers, as well as manufacturers of apparel fabrics, textile and textile processing machinery and more, who are set to unfold innovations. With 125+ participating companies, representing 300+ brands and growing participation from international countries, this edition will offer a panoramic view of the sectors next chapter.

India’s textile industry often referred to as the lifeblood of nations manufacturing economy, is on the cusp of a technology-led transformation. Leading this evolution is Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd. The expo is a definitive sourcing and innovation platform growing with global participation and solutions for the future.

What sets this edition apart is its focused attention on technology integration, automation and responsible manufacturing – themes that are redefining how India produces, sources and innovates on the global textile map through its product showcase as well as curated knowledge sessions.

A global showcase:
Making headlines this year is the strong international participation especially from China, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore and a dedicated pavilion for Taiwan, along with the leading Indian companies on board. Displaying a wide range of products for the garment and textile manufacturing industry. A few international names include: EPSON, Kornit and MACPI International among others. Some will participate directly and some through their partners and distributors. This global representation is matched with a stellar Indian line-up featuring names such as Balaji Sewing Machines, DCC, EH Turel, Mexum, Pantone and Sky Enterprises amongst others.

Denim Takes Centre Stage:
With the backing of Denim Manufacturers Association, the Denim Show at Gartex Texprocess India is expected to bring together all the major denim manufacturers and mill owners from India under one roof. As Indian denim exports steadily rise and demand for eco-conscious denim production grows, the show provides a much-needed window into how this resilient segment is re-inventing itself with sustainability and style at its core.

Trims & Accessories:
Beyond denim, this edition places a sharp focus on innovative fabric solutions, trims, digital screen printing and accessories – with dedicated zones for the Fabrics and Trims shows and Screen-Print India - Textile.

With 25+ new entrants and expanding categories, the Mumbai edition will be a hotspot for denim designers, boutique owners, apparel brands and labels, garment manufacturers, dyeing and finishing companies, distributors and agents of textile and garment machinery and accessories, merchandisers and sourcing heads scouting for the latest in material and design and more.

As India marches towards becoming a global textile powerhouse, Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai 2025 will serve as the ultimate confluence of technology, talent and trade, weaving together a stronger future for the Indian textile industry.

Gartex Texprocess India is a leading exhibition in the textile manufacturing technology with collocated show: The Denim Show’ and dedicated featured zones of ‘Fabrics and Trims Show’ and ‘Screen Print India – Textile’ making this a one-stop destination for the textile manufacturing.

The expo is jointly organised by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fair India Pvt Ltd. Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai and is scheduled from 22 – 24 May 2025 at Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai, Maharashtra.

At Chinaplas 2025, the Reifenhäuser Group will present its latest technological innovations for the efficient and sustainable production of plastic films. The extrusion specialists will showcase at Shenzhen World Exhibition & Convention Center from April 15 – 18 solutions that address the key challenges of today’s plastic industry: reducing resource consumption, increasing recyclability, and making production more autonomous and efficient. Meeting these demands requires advanced production technologies that Reifenhäuser already offers today.

A central focus at the show will be the use of Machine Direction Orientation (MDO) technologies for producing fully recyclable mono-material films with performance and cost-effectiveness equivalent to conventional multi-material structures.

Marcel Perrevort, CSO of the Reifenhäuser Group, explains: “In the flexible packaging sector, we are currently seeing a huge trend away from conventional and non-recyclable mixed material laminates towards fully recyclable mono-material composites, both for blown and cast films. Our state-of-the-art MDO stretching units enable enhanced mechanical properties for all-PE or all-PP films. Thus, PET films commonly used in material composites can be replaced. By downgauging, we also reduce production costs to a competitive level, making recyclable films a profitable choice.”

MDO for blown film lines
With the EVO Ultra Stretch MDO unit for Reifenhäuser’s blown film lines manufacturers produce all-PE mono films for applications such as high-barrier food pouches. Due to the stretch process film thicknesses of 18μm (with properties of a 25μm product) and less can be achieved, keeping production costs within the range of conventional films. With the patented integration of the MDO unit directly into the haul-off, the film is stretched in the ideal phase of the process – using the first heat – for maximum efficiency and film stability. Furthermore, the all-PE film achieves the required barrier effect with an EVOH content of less than five percent, fully meeting the criteria for recyclability. At the same time, Ultra Stretch enhances the performance of the EVOH barrier layer while reducing material usage, delivering cost and sustainability benefits.

At the SaigonTex 2025 textile machinery exhibition which is taking place from April 9-12 in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Monforts will highlight the benefits of its advanced finishing technologies for denim.

Over 900 Monforts THERMEX hotflue dyeing systems are now operational in the main textile producing countries, with many of them devoted to denim production, and a significant number already reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® and Econtrol®T-CA processes*.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying operation with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

Monforts denim range concepts which are successfully running worldwide enable the processing of high-qualtiy and reproducible fabrics which are stretched and skewed far more gently than with conventional range combinations. The ‘double rubber’ version of a THERMEX range comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line, for super elastic and bi-elastic materials. Additionally, the combined drying, stretching and skewing functions for denim fabric are possible with the ThermoStretch unit, which can also include an EcoApplicator system for the minimum application of necessary finishing chemicals.

In 2024, Vietnam surpassed Bangladesh to become the world’s second-largest textiles and apparel exporter, trailing only China, with total export revenues reaching $44 billion. This is in part due to tariffs that are currently 10-20% lower than China’s and significantly cheaper labour costs – less than half of China’s.

Vietnam’s textile and apparel industry is poised for further expansion in 2025, leveraging cost advantages and rapid production turnaround while proactively managing rising logistics costs and adapting to shifting trade dynamics.

* Econtrol® is a registered trademark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

23 Italian textile machinery manufacturers will partecipate at the upcoming Colombiatex, the main Colombian textile fair, which will take place in Medellín from January 28 to 30, 2025, once again confirming the strong connection between local textile companies and Italian suppliers of textile technology.

Despite a decrease in demand for textile machinery from the Colombian textile sector during the first nine months of 2024, the Country remains one of the main markets in the area for textile machinery manufacturers. Specifically, in 2023, Italy was the second largest technology supplier behind China, with an export value of around 13 million euros. In the first nine months of 2024, Italian sales in Colombia reached 8 million euros.

“The Colombian textile and clothing industry has experienced strong growth in recent years, also supported by a technological upgrade in which Italian machinery has often played a key role,” comments Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT. “For many of Italian manufacturers Colombiatex remains an unmissable event in the international trade fair calendar to strengthen partnership with Colombian textile companies”.

In the Italian pavilion organized by Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, among the 23 exhibitors, the following ACIMIT member companies will also be present: Biancalani, Btsr, Color Service, Danti, Dettin, Fadis, Flainox, Isotex, Itema, Kairos Engineering, Lonati, Mcs, Mts, Monti-Mac, Ratti, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Santoni, Stalam, Tecnorama, Tonello, Triveneta.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany and Japan. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

About 50 Italian companies will exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place from October 14 to 18 in Shanghai. With an area of around 1,400 square meters, Italy ranks among the top exhibiting Countries, as in previous editions. 29 Italian exhibitors will show their innovations within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and Italian Trade Agency.

ITMA ASIA + CITME show has always been the main showcase for textile machinery manufacturers in Asia, that absorbs over 50% of global exports. Moreover, China is the world’s largest market in the sector (the value of imported textile machinery in 2023 was around 2.6 billion euro).

For Italian manufacturers as well, the Chinese market is the top foreign destination. In 2023, Italian sales to China amounted to 222 million euro. In the first six months of this year, exports to China increased by 38%, while the performance of total Italian exports declined slightly in the same period.

“We hope that the recovery of the Chinese market, observed in this first half of the year, may be an early indication of a more general upturn in global demand for machinery,” says ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè. Over the past few years, demand from Chinese companies has turned to technologies that combine savings in production costs and environmental friendliness, as also demanded by brands and end consumers. “Today, Italian manufacturers can offer highly customized solutions that are particularly suited to making textile production more sustainable,” confirms Salvadè. “The Chinese textile machinery market is rapidly evolving, and the level of innovation in the technology requested has risen due to the growing international competition that even Chinese companies face. In Shanghai, Italian manufacturers will display their latest innovations, essential for making textile production more efficient and sustainable.”

About 50 Italian companies will exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place from October 14 to 18 in Shanghai. With an area of around 1,400 square meters, Italy ranks among the top exhibiting countries, as in previous editions. 29 Italian exhibitors will show their innovations within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and Italian Trade Agency.

ITMA ASIA + CITME show has always been the main showcase for textile machinery manufacturers in Asia, that absorbs over 50% of global exports. Moreover China is the world’s largest market in the sector (the value of imported textile machinery in 2023 was around 2.6 billion euro).

For Italian manufacturers as well, the Chinese market is the top foreign destination. In 2023, Italian sales to China amounted to 222 million euro. In the first six months of this year, exports to China increased by 38%, while the performance of total Italian exports declined slightly in the same period.

“We hope that the recovery of the Chinese market, observed in this first half of the year, may be an early indication of a more general upturn in global demand for machinery,” says ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè. Over the past few years, demand from Chinese companies has turned to technologies that combine savings in production costs and environmental friendliness, as also demanded by brands and end consumers. “Today, Italian manufacturers can offer highly customized solutions that are particularly suited to making textile production more sustainable,” confirms Salvadè. “The Chinese textile machinery market is rapidly evolving, and the level of innovation in the technology requested has risen due to the growing international competition that even Chinese companies face. In Shanghai, Italian manufacturers will display their latest innovations, essential for making textile production more efficient and sustainable.”

Under the motto "Master the Change", the KARL MAYER GROUP presents innovations from its brands KARL MAYER, STOLL and KM.ON at to ITMA ASIA + CITME, from October 14 to 18, 2024. Visitors can expect an exhibition of solutions from the fields of mechanical engineering, digitalization, textile products, applications and customer support.

A range of warp knitting and flat knitting machines from the Group's product portfolio and textile trends will also be on display at an accompanying in-house show at KARL MAYER (CHINA). The event in Changzhou starts the day before the trade fair opens. One highlight will be the opening of the new showroom of the KARL MAYER subsidiary in China with solutions from all areas of technology.