From the Sector

INDA announced the program for the World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, July 17-20, Atlanta, Georgia. Key topics include: Plastics policy: closing the “intention-action” gap, sustainable manufacturing practices, what consumers think about sustainability and how they are driving cultural change, supply chain transparency, wipes advancements, flushability developments, and a special CEO panel sharing their organizations’ approach to inflation, supply chain challenges, and capacity/demand balance.

Among the leading organizations presenting at this year’s event are: Berry Global, Birla Cellulose, Bringabouts, Bureau Veritas, Diamond Wipes, Freudenberg Performance Materials, Glatfelter, Goodwipes, Kimberly-Clark Corporation, National Cotton Council, Mango Consulting, Plastics Industry Association, Rockline Industries, Sharon Laboratories, and Trützschler Nonwovens. Program and speaker details are available on the WOW website.

Two new features at WOW this year are Lightning Talks and Lunch Around. Lightning Talks are an opportunity for tabletop exhibitors to highlight their innovations in “supersized elevator speeches” to WOW participants. Lightning Talks will take place before the tabletop exhibits open Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. The Lunch Around opportunity connects participants and thought leaders from the wipes industry at select downtown Atlanta restaurants on Tuesday and Wednesday. Space is limited and is first-come, first-served.

WOW kicks off with the WIPES Academy, a comprehensive course including elements of market research, materials, chemistry, converting, and regulatory filing. This course has been redeveloped to include all aspects of wipes development from concept to commercialization. The WIPES Academy is led by Heidi Beatty, Chief Executive Officer, and Paul Davies, Ph.D., Consultant, Crown Abbey LLC. Ms. Beatty and Mr. Davies bring decades of practical experience to give participants real-world solutions for product development challenges and tools to improve processes.

Hologenix announces that CELLIANT® with REPREVE®, a performance fiber made from recycled materials and enhanced with IR technology, has been shortlisted for the Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2023 Awards. Introduced with global textile solutions provider UNIFI® makers of REPREVE®, CELLIANT with REPREVE is honored in the Sustainable Textile Innovation Category of the awards.

The Drapers Awards recognize the strides that are being made in reducing the industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain. According to Drapers the quality and quantity of entries were higher than ever this year. Judging was underpinned by the UN-backed Sustainable Development Goals. Winners will be announced at a ceremony on May 25, 2023 at The Brewery in London.

This recognition is the second award for CELLIANT with REPREVE since its launch in the fall of 2022 – it was previously named a Selection in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2024/25. This is also the second year in a row that a Hologenix innovation has been shortlisted for the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards.

CELLIANT is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, which, when embedded into textiles, allows them to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local circulation and cellular oxygenation. This aids significantly in muscle recovery, increases endurance and improves overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.

REPREVE recycled performance fiber consists of high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and pre-consumer waste. It is also certified and traceable with UNIFI’s U TRUST® verification and FiberPrint™ technology, which provide assurance that the product comes from recycled materials. Compared to virgin fiber, REPREVE helps to offset the use of petroleum, conserving water and energy and emitting fewer greenhouse gasses.

• Technical innovation and natural fibres, for a broader definition of sustainability

The weaving collection further develops the themes that have emerged in recent seasons, interpreting them with a view to long-term sustainability.

In harmony with the Südwolle Group’s identity and values, research and technical innovation are combined with a high level of quality. Wools, almost all certified, are enriched by a significant level of performance that continues to evolve. The production process attempts to limit carbon footprint, as sustainability is the key principle guiding all the company’s choices.

The ability to offer yarns made from selected natural raw materials is in harmony with today’s sustainable buying habits, with a preference for garments and accessories that can be worn at any time of year. In contrast with the logic of fast fashion, today’s buyers, led by younger generations with a focus on the values behind their fashion choices, tend to choose items that can be expected to last longer, decreasing the environmental impact of textile wastes and throwaway fashion.

In casual wear too, the importance of comfort and feeling at ease is reconciled with the desire to wear items of good taste and quality. The new formalwear includes carefully cut garments made of materials guaranteeing fit, comfort and durability. A widespread focus on these factors makes for more conscientious, reasoned purchases, less subject to impulse buying.

Südwolle interprets the new interest in heritage, leading to the emergence of the phenomenon of quality second-hand, with a return to its core business and essentials, in a new sustainable version using certified fibres, chlorine-free anti-shrinkage treatments and long-lasting products that can be washed at home at low temperatures.

One of the most recent results of the company’s technical innovation is the new OTW® line of yarns for weaving produced using Omega Twist® technology, developed and patented by the Südwolle Group, producing yarns offering outstanding performance in terms of reduced pilling and greater elasticity, tenacity and durability.

Kelheim Fibres and SUMO are presenting their high-performance absorbent pads for the reusable Sumo diaper at this year's Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Sumo diaper is a sustainable and washable cloth diaper made entirely from biobased materials, offering high performance and innovative design.

The Sumo diaper offers a reusable alternative, consisting of a waterproof shell and absorbent pads. To enhance the performance of the pads, Sumo collaborated with Kelheim Fibres, a leading viscose specialty fibre manufacturer with decades of experience in the hygiene sector.

Together with the Saxon Textile Research Institute STFI, Sumo and Kelheim Fibres have developed a high-performance absorbent pad that is free of fossil-based materials and has already been awarded the Techtextil Innovation Award. The basis for the innovative construction are Kelheim's functionalized specialty viscose fibres with modified cross-sections, which ensure particularly high absorbency and extremely low rewet values.

To ensure the washability of the product, needle-punched/thermally bonded nonwovens were chosen, consisting of a mixture of specialty viscose and PLA bicomponent fibres. By combining nonwovens, typically used in single-use applications, with reusable products, the partners have chosen a new approach.

Natalie Wunder, project manager at Kelheim Fibres, and Luisa Kahlfeldt, founder and designer of SUMO, explain in their joint presentation at the Cellulose Fibre Conference how open innovation has led to successful development collaboration, how this response to current consumer needs has emerged, and what steps are planned for the future.

The Woolmark Company, the Italian wool fabric mill Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC) and Haelixa took part in a trial to trace Australian wool fibers up to the final fabric.

Funded by Australian woolgrowers, The Woolmark Company (TWC) is an enterprise that focuses on investments that enhance the profitability, international competitiveness, and sustainability of Australian wool. In their operations, TWC seeks to be transparent and accountable. In line with this strategy, traceability is necessary to ensure transparency and maintain the credibility of TWC.

In December 2021, Haelixa marked wool fibers with their DNA tracing solution. There are infinite DNA markers that could be produced and used to indicate a specific origin, supply chain, material, or particular collection. In this case, a single DNA has been applied to greasy wool and a second DNA marker to scoured wool. The first DNA identifies the origin of the Australian wool, while the second determines the manufacturer where the wool has been further processed; at Vitale Barberis Canonico mill.

Samples were collected from various production stages, where a qPCR test was used to detect each specific DNA marker. Haelixa uses a “Key-Lock” system to detect a marker; one needs to know the particular DNA to screen for, ensuring that the system is tamper-proof. The DNA markers stay safely embedded in the product, enabling traceability of greasy and scoured wool up to greige fabric and finished fabric, respectively.

With increasing cost pressure and competition in the wool fabric market, traceability is becoming a prerequisite to proving authenticity and origin. TWC and Vitale Barberis Canonico support the culture of sustainability and collaboration.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present surfacing veils and core materials for lightweight fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) parts at JEC in Paris, France. Freudenberg will also be showcasing Enka® Solutions flow media and spacers for efficient vacuum infusion, resin transfer and foam injection molding processes for applications in the composites industry, etc. at the international composites show.
 
Freudenberg’s solutions for the FRP industry include a variety of glass, PAN and PET nonwovens, as well as core materials for the production of lightweight fiber reinforced plastic parts. These products are designed for anti-corrosion coatings in piping and tank construction, smooth UV resistant surfaces for facade panels, and other applications for a diverse range of end products. Products made from fiber reinforced plastics must be equipped with surfacing veils to provide abrasion resistance, corrosion resistance, smooth surfaces and mechanical strength. Freudenberg offers high-tech nonwovens that can meet these challenges.
 
Enka® Solutions products are characterized by their typical 3D entangled polymeric filament structures. Thanks to this structure, they are exceptionally suitable as flow media and spacers when producing composite materials.

International experts will discuss topics along the entire cellulose fibre value chain at the upcoming Cellulose Fibres Conference, 8–9 March 2023 in Cologne and online.

How can the cellulose fibre industry contribute to the sustainability and circularity of the textile sector? How can fibre markets achieve a circular economy for their materials? What are the most sustainable technologies on the market? And, are there innovative, interesting raw materials and technologies worth exploring to meet the challenges of the coming years?

These and other questions in the field of cellulose fibres will be discussed within the program of the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023. The two-day event will provide insights into the latest developments of the cellulose fibre sector and introduce innovative start-ups, technologies as well as novel fibre applications. A special focus will be set on the textile sector and its awaited paradigm shift towards circular economy in the following years.

Seven sessions will provide in depth views from fibre production to recycling, policy and market trends:

• Strategies, Policy Framework of Textiles and Market Trends,
• Circular Economy and Recyclability of Fibres,
• Alternative Feedstocks and Supply Chains,
• Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023″,
• Sustainability and Environmental Impacts,
• Ionic Liquids and New Technologies for Pulps, Fibres and Yarns,
• New Technologies and Applications beyond Textiles.

The full conference program is available here.

For the third time, nova-Institute awards the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the frame of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023” (8-9 March 2023). The conference advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste, banana production waste and bacterial pulp, a novel technology for producing lyocell yarns and a hygiene product. The innovations will be put to the vote of the conference audience on the first day of the event, with the awards ceremony taking place in the evening. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023” is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

Here are the six nominees
Vybrana – The new generation banana fibre – GenCrest Bioproducts (India)
Vybrana is a Gencrest’s Sustainable Cellulosic Fibre upcycled from agrowaste. Raw fibres are extracted from the Banana Pseudo stem at the end of the plant lifecycle. The biomass waste is then treated by the Gencrest patented Fiberzyme technology. Here, cocktail enzyme formulations remove the high lignin content and other impurities and help fibre fibrillation. The company's proprietary cottonisation process provides fine, spinnable cellulose staple fibres suitable for blending with other staple fibres and can be spun on any conventional spinning systems giving yarns sustainable apparel. Vybrana is produced without the use of heavy chemicals and minimized water consumption and in a waste-free process where balance biomass is converted to bio stimulants Agrosatva and Bio Fertilizers & organic manure.

HeiQ AeoniQ™ – technology for more sustainability of textiles – HeiQ (Austria)
HeiQ AeoniQ™ is the disruptive technology and key initiative from HeiQ with the potential to change the sustainability of textiles. It is the first climate-positive continuous cellulose filament yarn, made in a proprietary manufacturing process and the first to reproduce the properties of polyester and nylon yarns in a cellulosic, biodegradable, and endlessly recyclable fibre.
HeiQ AeoniQ™ can be manufactured from different cellulosic raw materials such as pre- and post-consumer textile waste, biotech cellulose, and non-valorized agricultural waste, such as ground coffee waste or banana peels. It naturally degrades after only 12 weeks in the soil. Each ton of HeiQ AeoniQ™ saves 5 tons of CO2 emissions. The first garments made with this innovative cellulosic filament fiber were commercially launched in January 2023.

TENCEL™ LUXE – lyocell filament yarn – Lenzing (Austria)
TENCEL™ LUXE is LENZING’s new versatile lyocell yarn that offers an urgently needed sustainable filament solution for the textile and fashion industry. A possible botanical alternative for silk, long-staple cotton, and petrol-based synthetic filaments, is derived from wood grown in renewable, sustainably managed forests, and produced in an environmentally sound, closed-loop process that recycles water and reuses more than 99 % of organic solvent. Certified by The Vegan Society, it is suitable for a wide range of applications and fabric developments, from finer high fashion propositions to denim constructions, seamless and activewear innovations, and even agricultural and technical solutions.

Nullarbor™ – Nanollose & Birla Cellulose (Australia/India)
In 2020, Nanollose & Birla Cellulose started a journey to develop and commercialize tree-free lyocell from bacterial cellulose, called Nullarbor™. The name derives from the Latin “nulla arbor” which means “no trees”. Initial lab research at both ends led to a joint patent application with the patent “production of high-tenacity lyocell fibres made from bacterial cellulose”.
Nullarbor is significantly stronger than lyocell made from wood-based pulp; even adding small amounts of bacterial cellulose to wood pulp increases the fibre toughness. In 2022, the first pilot batch of 260kg was produced with 20 % bacterial pulp share. Several high-quality fabrics and garments were produced with this fibre. The collaboration between Nanollose & Birla Cellulose now focuses on increasing the production scale and amount of bacterial pulp in the fibre.

Circulose® – makes fashion circular – Renewcell (Sweden)
Circulose® made by Renewcell is a branded dissolving pulp made from 100 % textile waste, like worn-out clothes and production scraps. It provides a unique material for fashion that is 100 % recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, and of virgin-equivalent quality. It is used by fibre producers to make staple fibre or filaments like viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate or other types of man-made cellulosic fibres. In 2022, Renewcell, opened the world’s first textile-to-textile chemical recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden – Renewcell 1. The plant will eventually reach 120,000 tons of annual capacity.

Sparkle sustainable sanitary pads – Sparkle Innovations (United States)
Globally, around 300 billion period products are discarded every year, resulting in millions of tons of non-biodegradable waste. Since most conventional sanitary pads contain up to 90 % plastics, they do not biodegrade for around 600 years. Sparkle has designed sustainable, plastic-free, biodegradable and compostable Sparkle sanitary pads. From product to packaging, they are made up of around 90 % cellulose-based materials with top sheet, absorbent core, release paper, wrapping paper and packaging made of cellulose-based fibres. Whether Sparkle pads end up in a compost pit, are incinerated or end up in a landfill, they are a more sustainable alternative compared to conventional pads that contain large amounts of plastics, complex petro-chemical based ingredients and artificial fragrances. When tested according to ISO 14855-1 by a leading independent lab in Europe, Sparkle pads reached over 90 % absolute biodegradation within 90 days in commercial composting conditions.

The viscose fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres - exclusively using FSC® or PEFCTM certified pulps exclusively from sustainably managed sources - welcomes the preliminary political agreement reached between the European Parliament and the Council on an EU regulation on deforestation-free supply chains. The new rules, adopted at the end of 2022, are intended to prevent goods that cause forest degradation or deforestation from being placed on the EU market.

As one of the largest economies worldwide, the EU is a major consumer of wood-based raw materials. Therefore, the new law can significantly contribute to reducing global deforestation and forest degradation as well as protecting threatened forest areas.

“Wood is an incredibly versatile and valuable renewable resource and the basis for countless products. Our viscose fibres are just one example – they offer an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic materials in various applications and are thus a promising material for the future. Of course, this only applies if the production of our raw materials does not take place at the expense of our earth's natural forest resources. These forests are a bastion of biodiversity and climate protection for our entire planet and must be protected at all costs. No one can escape this responsibility," says Craig Barker, CEO at Kelheim Fibres.

Price Trends

• The nearby cotton futures contract on the Intercontinental Exchange was down just 1% in December and closed the year at $1.84 per kilogram. A year earlier, the March contract closed at $2.30 per kilogram.  
  
  Cotton futures have been inverted for nearly three years because of supply chain disruptions that prevented normal on-time deliveries of international shipments. With the easing of container shortages and increased sailings, cotton futures are gradually reverting to the normal pattern in which contracts for forward delivery exceed nearby contracts by the cost of insurance, storage and interest between delivery months. The May and July 2023 contracts also finished 2022 at $1.84 per kilogram. In November, the May and July contracts were each several cents per kilogram lower than the March contract.
• The Eastern Market Indicator of prices for fine wool in Australia rose 9% in December to US$9.06 per kilogram. A year earlier, the EMI was $9.66. Australian analysts note that sheep for meat, cattle, and grain production, are competing alternatives for the use of land, and wool prices must continue upward if production is to be maintained in 2023.
• Prices quoted by the Indian Jute Balers Association (JBA) at the end of December converted to US$ fell 2% from a month earlier to an average of 74 cents per kilogram. The decline occurred entirely because of a weakening exchange rate. Prices in Rupee rose marginally. A year earlier, quoted prices averaged 84 cents per kilogram. The 16-percent decline year-on-year was caused about equally by a decline in quoted prices in Rupee and a weakening of the exchange rate.  
  
  The Indian jute industry is almost entirely focused on domestic demand, while half of total demand in Bangladesh comes from exports. Because of shortages of higher quality jute, export prices in Bangladesh are reportedly rising.
  (https://www.wgc.de/en/produkte/jute)
  
  India extended the anti-dumping duty at the end of December on jute and jute products imported from Bangladesh and Nepal for a period of five years. Bangladesh had urged the Indian government not to accept recommendations for extension, while the Indian industry was lobbying to ensure the duty remained in place. The duty rates range from approximately $6 per tonne at current exchange rates for low-quality fibres to $350 per tonne for finished products. The duty was originally imposed in January 2017 and was to expire at the end of 2022.
• Prices of silk in China rose 2% during December to US$28.0 per kilogram. Prices in yuan fell marginally during the month, but the RMB rose 3% against the USD. Prices of textile-grade silk in China were essentially unchanged at the end of 2022 compared with the end of 2021. However, prices closed 2022 about 40% above the average level pre-Covid. https://www.sunsirs.com/uk/prodetail-322.html and  https://businessanalytiq.com/procurementanalytics/index/raw-silk-price-index/ .
• Coconut coir fibre in India quoted in US$ remained in a narrow range, averaging $0.205 per kilogram in December. Prices in Rupee have been stable, and changes in dollar prices reflect changes in the exchange rate.

 
Production
 
World Natural Fibre Production in 2022 is estimated as of early January at 32 million tonnes, approximately one million below production in 2021 and down 900,000 tonnes compared with the estimate in early December.

World cotton production is estimated at 24.2 million tonnes in 2022/23 (August to July), 700,000 tonnes lower than in 2021/22 (ICAC.org). World cotton production rose from 20 million tonnes to 25 million between 2020/21 and 2005/06, but there has been no growth in the nearly two decades since.  
 
World production of jute is forecast down nearly 400,000 tonnes in 2022 because of inadequate rainfall during the harvest period to permit proper retting. Production in India is estimated up by 100,000 tonnes to 1.7 million tonnes, but production in Bangladesh fell by nearly one-third to just one million tonnes.
 
Production of coir, flax and sisal in 2022 are each estimated based on recent trends. Coir and flax have each been trending upward over the past decade, while world sisal production has been largely stable.

World wool production is forecast up 5% in 2022 to 1.09 million tonnes (clean), the highest since 2018. The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee issued its third estimate of 2022/23 production in December, keeping the estimate unchanged from September. Above-average rainfall in Australia, and across most of the Southern Hemisphere, is resulting in better pasture conditions and a rebuilding of sheep numbers. Sheep numbers shorn in Australia are climbing from 67 million in 2020/21 to 72 million in 2021/22 and to an estimated 75 million in 2022/23. https://www.wool.com/market-intelligence/wool-production-forecasts/  
 
According to the International Sericulture Commission (https://www.inserco.org/), silk production in China dropped from 170,000 tonnes in 2015 to 53,000 in 2020, with further declines estimated during Covid. Consequently, world silk production dropped from 202,000 tonnes in 2015 to 92,000 in 2020, and estimates of production during 2022 remain below 100,000 tonnes.