From the Sector

RadiciGroup presented Biofeel® Eleven, a yarn of natural origin, at the Performance Days trade fair (from March 15-16 in Munich). Biofeel® Eleven is sourced from castor oil and is suitable for obtaining bio-polymer. It can be used for fabrics and fine garments in many sectors, from fashion to sports, from automotive to home textiles.

Today, 80% of the world's castor-oil plantations are in India, particularly in the Gujarat region, due to its favourable climatic conditions. In this area, local people can earn an additional income by cultivating semi-arid land that does not compete with food production, and by applying the skills they have acquired over time to this work. Over the years, thanks to research, development and innovation in the value chain, the seeds from which the oil is produced have been selected and certified to ensure the finest quality, also in terms of end uses.

Castor beans contain around 45% oil, rich in ricinolein, from which the bio-polymer polyamide 11 is derived. This is the polymer RadiciGroup uses for its Biofeel® Eleven yarn. What remains after the first pressing is a highly effective bio-fertiliser that is returned to the soil.

Biofeel® Eleven can also be solution dyed, i.e. dyed at the yarn production stage, saving a great deal of water and energy and also providing greater colour stability.

INDA announced the program for the World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, July 17-20, Atlanta, Georgia. Key topics include: Plastics policy: closing the “intention-action” gap, sustainable manufacturing practices, what consumers think about sustainability and how they are driving cultural change, supply chain transparency, wipes advancements, flushability developments, and a special CEO panel sharing their organizations’ approach to inflation, supply chain challenges, and capacity/demand balance.

Among the leading organizations presenting at this year’s event are: Berry Global, Birla Cellulose, Bringabouts, Bureau Veritas, Diamond Wipes, Freudenberg Performance Materials, Glatfelter, Goodwipes, Kimberly-Clark Corporation, National Cotton Council, Mango Consulting, Plastics Industry Association, Rockline Industries, Sharon Laboratories, and Trützschler Nonwovens. Program and speaker details are available on the WOW website.

Two new features at WOW this year are Lightning Talks and Lunch Around. Lightning Talks are an opportunity for tabletop exhibitors to highlight their innovations in “supersized elevator speeches” to WOW participants. Lightning Talks will take place before the tabletop exhibits open Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. The Lunch Around opportunity connects participants and thought leaders from the wipes industry at select downtown Atlanta restaurants on Tuesday and Wednesday. Space is limited and is first-come, first-served.

WOW kicks off with the WIPES Academy, a comprehensive course including elements of market research, materials, chemistry, converting, and regulatory filing. This course has been redeveloped to include all aspects of wipes development from concept to commercialization. The WIPES Academy is led by Heidi Beatty, Chief Executive Officer, and Paul Davies, Ph.D., Consultant, Crown Abbey LLC. Ms. Beatty and Mr. Davies bring decades of practical experience to give participants real-world solutions for product development challenges and tools to improve processes.

• Revenue rose to EUR 2.57 bn, while EBITDA declined to EUR 241.9 mn
• Implementation of EUR 70 mn cost reduction program proceeding according to plan
• Largest investment program in the company’s history including the lyocell plant in Thailand and the pulp mill in Brazil implemented on time and within budget
• Outlook: Lenzing expects EBITDA in 2023 to be in a range of EUR 320 mn to EUR 420 mn

The Lenzing Group was increasingly affected by extreme developments on the global energy and raw material markets in the 2022 financial year, in tandem with most of manufacturing industry in Europe. The market environment also deteriorated significantly in the third and fourth quarters, while worsening consumer sentiment placed an additional burden on Lenzing’s business growth.

In the year under review, revenue increased by 16.9 percent year-on-year to reach EUR 2.57 bn, primarily as a result of higher fiber prices. The quantity of fiber sold decreased, while the quantity of pulp sold rose. In addition to lower demand, the earnings trend particularly reflects the increase in energy and raw material costs. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) decreased by 33.3 percent year-on-year to EUR 241.9 mn in 2022. The net result for the year was minus EUR 37.2 mn (compared with EUR 127.7 mn in the 2021 financial year), while earnings per share stood at minus EUR 2.75 (compared with EUR 4.16 in the 2021 financial year).

Outlook
The war in Ukraine and the tighter monetary policy pursued by many central banks to combat inflation will continue to exert pressure on the global economy. The easing of China’s zero-Covid policy could lead to an unexpectedly rapid recovery. However, the IMF has warned that risks remain high overall and projects growth of 2.9 percent in 2023. Exchange rate volatility looks set to continue in regions that are important to Lenzing.

These challenging market conditions are also continuing to weigh on consumer confidence and sentiment in the sectors relevant to Lenzing. The outlook has improved slightly of late, with inventory levels returning to normal across the value chain. Nonetheless, subdued demand remains a source of concern for market players.

Inventories in the bellwether cotton market have diminished recently, although they remain above pre-pandemic levels. A decline in crops is foreseeable in the current 2022/2023 harvest season. The sharp rise in prices on the energy and raw material markets will continue to pose significant challenges for the market.

Overall, earnings visibility remains restricted.

In structural terms, Lenzing expects a continued rise in demand for environmentally friendly fibers in the textile and clothing industry, as well as in the hygiene and medical sectors. Thus, with its “Better Growth” strategy, Lenzing is very well positioned and will continue to drive growth in specialty products, while pursuing its sustainability targets including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

In light of these factors and assuming a further market recovery in the current financial year, the Lenzing Group expects EBITDA in 2023 to be in a range of EUR 320 mn to EUR 420 mn.

Hologenix announces that CELLIANT® with REPREVE®, a performance fiber made from recycled materials and enhanced with IR technology, has been shortlisted for the Drapers Sustainable Fashion 2023 Awards. Introduced with global textile solutions provider UNIFI® makers of REPREVE®, CELLIANT with REPREVE is honored in the Sustainable Textile Innovation Category of the awards.

The Drapers Awards recognize the strides that are being made in reducing the industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain. According to Drapers the quality and quantity of entries were higher than ever this year. Judging was underpinned by the UN-backed Sustainable Development Goals. Winners will be announced at a ceremony on May 25, 2023 at The Brewery in London.

This recognition is the second award for CELLIANT with REPREVE since its launch in the fall of 2022 – it was previously named a Selection in the Fibers & Insulation Category of ISPO Textrends Fall/Winter 2024/25. This is also the second year in a row that a Hologenix innovation has been shortlisted for the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards.

CELLIANT is a natural blend of IR-generating bioceramic minerals, which, when embedded into textiles, allows them to convert body heat into infrared energy, returning it to the body and temporarily increasing local circulation and cellular oxygenation. This aids significantly in muscle recovery, increases endurance and improves overall performance in healthy individuals, among other benefits.

REPREVE recycled performance fiber consists of high-quality fibers made from 100% recycled materials, including post-consumer plastic bottles and pre-consumer waste. It is also certified and traceable with UNIFI’s U TRUST® verification and FiberPrint™ technology, which provide assurance that the product comes from recycled materials. Compared to virgin fiber, REPREVE helps to offset the use of petroleum, conserving water and energy and emitting fewer greenhouse gasses.

• Technical innovation and natural fibres, for a broader definition of sustainability

The weaving collection further develops the themes that have emerged in recent seasons, interpreting them with a view to long-term sustainability.

In harmony with the Südwolle Group’s identity and values, research and technical innovation are combined with a high level of quality. Wools, almost all certified, are enriched by a significant level of performance that continues to evolve. The production process attempts to limit carbon footprint, as sustainability is the key principle guiding all the company’s choices.

The ability to offer yarns made from selected natural raw materials is in harmony with today’s sustainable buying habits, with a preference for garments and accessories that can be worn at any time of year. In contrast with the logic of fast fashion, today’s buyers, led by younger generations with a focus on the values behind their fashion choices, tend to choose items that can be expected to last longer, decreasing the environmental impact of textile wastes and throwaway fashion.

In casual wear too, the importance of comfort and feeling at ease is reconciled with the desire to wear items of good taste and quality. The new formalwear includes carefully cut garments made of materials guaranteeing fit, comfort and durability. A widespread focus on these factors makes for more conscientious, reasoned purchases, less subject to impulse buying.

Südwolle interprets the new interest in heritage, leading to the emergence of the phenomenon of quality second-hand, with a return to its core business and essentials, in a new sustainable version using certified fibres, chlorine-free anti-shrinkage treatments and long-lasting products that can be washed at home at low temperatures.

One of the most recent results of the company’s technical innovation is the new OTW® line of yarns for weaving produced using Omega Twist® technology, developed and patented by the Südwolle Group, producing yarns offering outstanding performance in terms of reduced pilling and greater elasticity, tenacity and durability.

Kelheim Fibres and SUMO are presenting their high-performance absorbent pads for the reusable Sumo diaper at this year's Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Sumo diaper is a sustainable and washable cloth diaper made entirely from biobased materials, offering high performance and innovative design.

The Sumo diaper offers a reusable alternative, consisting of a waterproof shell and absorbent pads. To enhance the performance of the pads, Sumo collaborated with Kelheim Fibres, a leading viscose specialty fibre manufacturer with decades of experience in the hygiene sector.

Together with the Saxon Textile Research Institute STFI, Sumo and Kelheim Fibres have developed a high-performance absorbent pad that is free of fossil-based materials and has already been awarded the Techtextil Innovation Award. The basis for the innovative construction are Kelheim's functionalized specialty viscose fibres with modified cross-sections, which ensure particularly high absorbency and extremely low rewet values.

To ensure the washability of the product, needle-punched/thermally bonded nonwovens were chosen, consisting of a mixture of specialty viscose and PLA bicomponent fibres. By combining nonwovens, typically used in single-use applications, with reusable products, the partners have chosen a new approach.

Natalie Wunder, project manager at Kelheim Fibres, and Luisa Kahlfeldt, founder and designer of SUMO, explain in their joint presentation at the Cellulose Fibre Conference how open innovation has led to successful development collaboration, how this response to current consumer needs has emerged, and what steps are planned for the future.

The Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference, taking place in Indore, India over three days, from February 27-March 1^st is set to bring together a diverse group of key players from every part of the textile supply chain. Farmers, farm groups, industry representatives, non-profits, academics, suppliers, brands, certifiers, government representatives and policymakers will join nearly 200 guests at the multi-day event. The aim is to foster collaboration, explore innovative ideas, listen to those on the ground and focus discussions to develop a shared vision to boost the organic textile supply chain worldwide.

Co-hosted by  OCA, GOTS, and IFOAM - Organics International, the conference will address a range of subjects including social conditions, transparency through innovation, scaling up organic through investment, as well as sessions tackling certification, decent work and environmental impacts. The event also gives voice to farmers, who join as panellists, in a dedicated Q&A session with seven organic cotton farmers from the region. On the third day, organised by OCA, the organic farmers will welcome attendees to their communities during field trips west to Petlawad to witness organic practices at ground level.

“By addressing these important issues and fostering a dialogue between participants, the conference aims to develop innovative solutions that can drive progress and growth in the sector", says Bart Vollaard, Executive Director of OCA. "We are thrilled to be joining forces with GOTS and IFOAM to create positive change in the organic textile sector."

“Together with IFOAM - Organics International and OCA, GOTS wants to increase visibility of organic and at the same time enhance integrity of organic fibres and textiles. This conference shall serve to strengthen the sector by addressing obstacles and work on effective solutions, in consultation with all relevant and committed stakeholders”, notes Claudia Kersten, Managing Director of GOTS.

Sarah Compson of the IFOAM - Organics International World Board adds “Organic agriculture directly addresses some of the most pressing challenges of our time. IFOAM - Organics International is delighted to collaborate with OCA and GOTS to bring together people from across the whole textile sector and address the barriers and opportunities for scaling organic cotton production worldwide.”

With a strong line-up of notable speakers and guests in a supportive and engaging atmosphere, and a unique approach that connects participants from every step of the supply chain, the Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference is set to be a valuable and transformative event for key stakeholders involved in the organic textile industry.

NatureWorks, the manufacturer of low-carbon polylactic acid (PLA) biopolymers made from renewable resources, hosted a cornerstone laying ceremony to celebrate construction of their new Ingeo™️ PLA manufacturing complex in Thailand. The ceremony which took place on February 1st, 2023 commemorated the progress made to date on the new fully integrated biopolymer facility. The day also featured a ceremonial groundbreaking that mirrored the ceremony held in Blair, Nebraska, USA in 2000 when NatureWorks began construction on the world’s first commercial scale PLA manufacturing facility.

The new manufacturing facility located on the Nakhon Sawan Biocomplex (NBC) in Nakhon Sawan Province, Thailand is designed to be fully integrated including production sites for lactic acid, lactide, and polymer. With completion expected in the second half of 2024, the manufacturing site will have an annual capacity of 75,000 tons and will produce the full portfolio of Ingeo biopolymer grades.

The expanded global production of Ingeo biopolymer will support growth in markets including 3D printing and hygiene as well as compostable coffee capsules, tea bags, flexible packaging, and food serviceware that demand sustainable, low-carbon biomaterials and require the high-performance attributes that Ingeo is uniquely suited to deliver.

“This ceremony is a meaningful milestone for the entire NatureWorks team,” said Rich Altice, president and CEO of NatureWorks. “For the last three decades, we have not only been building a company and manufacturing facilities, but also a whole new industry and market for low-carbon, renewable biomaterials that are revolutionizing the sustainability and safety of packaging and product materials used in our everyday lives.”

Avgol®, a manufacturer of high-performance nonwoven fabric solutions, will use this month’s FILTECH exhibition in Germany to showcase its latest developments in using Algaeing™’s patented algae bio-based formulations for colorants and fibers.

Together with its sister companies from Indorama Ventures Limited (‘IVL’), Avgol will be presenting biotransformation capable fibers and meltblown for diversified end-use markets at the event from 14-16 February. Avgol will discuss with visitors how this new technology and the company’s biotransformative products can help businesses achieve their 2030 sustainability goals.

Algaeing’s technologies utilize various sustainably sourced, vertically farmed algae species to produce a wide range of appealing colors, many of which replicate the colors used in nonwoven fabrics today.

“The benefits of using an algae bio-source go far beyond the removal of chemically synthesized colorants, and include synergistic benefits of vastly reduced water consumption, chemical and fertilizer use, and carbon dioxide emissions,” says Avgol CEO Tommi Bjornman. “We will be demonstrating to FILTECH visitors that following an extensive development path, the fibers both absorb and retain a range of colors - such as vibrant greens and blues – and that we can even deliver a ‘heathered’ appearance for a more natural looking material, all without affecting the filtration, barrier quality or feel of the final product.”

Die Epson Deutschland GmbH startet im April in ihr neues Geschäftsjahr 2023/2024. Trotz der gesellschaftlichen und politischen Einschnitte im letzten Jahr und der daraus resultierenden Unsicherheit in der Wirtschaft kann das Unternehmen auf eine stabile Entwicklung im noch laufenden Geschäftsjahr verweisen und blickt optimistisch auf das kommende. Basis hierfür ist die konsequent nachhaltige Ausrichtung des Technologiekonzerns und die Realisierung dieser Planungen. Das Ziel zu 100 Prozent mit Ökostrom weltweit in allen Produktionsstätten und Niederlassungen zu arbeiten, wird in 2023 erfüllt. Neue Technologien wie die Dry-Fiber-Technologie (DFT) und Metal Injection Molding (MIM) sind Ergebnisse einer Forschungs- und Entwicklungsarbeit, die den japanischen Konzern in Sachen Nachhaltigkeit zukunftsfähig aufstellen.

100 Prozent Ökostrom weltweit
2023 kann Epson einen wichtigen Meilenstein seiner Umweltvision erfüllen: alle Produktionsstätten und Vertriebsniederlassungen werden weltweit auf Strom aus erneuerbaren Energien umgestellt. Aktuell setzen bereits alle Epson-Standorte in Japan, in Europa und in einzelnen Werken im asiatischen Raum auf Ökostrom.

Umwelttechnologien: Recycling von Kleidung
Die einhundertprozentige Nutzung von Strom aus erneuerbaren Energiequellen ist Teil der Epson Umweltvision 2050. Eine weitere wichtige Säule dieses Programms ist die Entwicklung von Umwelttechnologien. Mit der Dry-Fiber-Technologie arbeitet Epson an einer Recyclingtechnologie, die bereits im Einsatz ist, zukünftig aber noch viel breiter Anwendung finden kann. Basis der Technologie ist die Zerlegung von Ausgangsstoffen in ihre Fasern, die sich dann auf verschiedenen Wegen wieder zusammenführen lassen. Auf dem Markt bereits erhältlich ist das PaperLab, Epsons Papierrecyclingmaschine, die aus altem Büropapier neues herstellt. Mit dieser Technologie lassen sich auch Textilien zerfasern und zu Stoffbahnen (Vlies) wieder zusammenfügen.

New Work in Düsseldorf
2023 wird überdies ein Aufbruchsjahr für die Mitarbeitenden in der Meerbuscher Vertriebszentrale. Nach 20 Jahren geht die Epson Deutschland GmbH wieder zurück nach Düsseldorf. Das Unternehmen hat ab dem Frühjahr 2023 rund 3.000 Quadratmeter im gerade im Bau befindlichen Gebäude TRIGON in Düsseldorf-Heerdt angemietet.