From the Sector

• Lenzing enters the age of digital traceability
• Transparency ensured from wood to the finished garment
• Partnership with Hong Kong based TextileGenesis™

The Lenzing Group, world market leader in specialty fibers made from the renewable material wood, is strengthening its leading position in sustainability in the textile industry. Lenzing will use blockchain technology to support its TENCEL™ branded fiber business, ensuring complete transparency and traceability for brands and consumers of its fibers in the finished garment. After evaluating various initiatives Lenzing decided to join the platform of the Hong Kong based technology company TextileGenesis™ to accomplish this ambition.

Consumers increasingly want to understand the ingredients and suppliers of the products they buy, requesting a new level of transparency and traceability. The supply chain transparency from wood to garment and home textiles will enable all customers and partners to identify TENCEL™ fibers and the respective wood source in each production and distribution step. Thanks to a QR code on the final garment, consumers will be able to detect the origin of the clothes they intend to buy.

“With LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers Lenzing was the frontrunner in physical traceability and is now entering the age of digital traceability. This milestone in transparency is a further strong commitment to sustainability”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “Together with TextileGenesis™, we aim to create an unmatched level of transparency for brands and consumers. With this step Lenzing will further help to green up the textile industry.”

Lenzing will carry out several pilot tests over the next few months involving partners along the entire value chain. Lenzing expects the platform to be fully operational as of 2020.

Textile innovator Devan Chemicals will launch two new technologies at the upcoming Techtextil show in Frankfurt (May 14-17). Bio-flam, a bio-based flame retardant product and Odour Breakdown, a wash durable, non-biocidal odour control solution.
As tradition goes, every two years Devan participates in Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens. In the quest for sustainability and transparency every company faces these days, the new Devan technologies offer answers to product developers and portfolio designers.

Bio-flam
Some facts & figures: There are at least 5000 fire incidents each day in the EU. Yearly, about 70 000 people are hospitalised with fire-related injuries. Fires cause pollution. So sustainable fire performance of products is an economic, environmental and human necessity. Take the example of mattresses: tests indicate that when on fire, non-FR treated products give less than 5 minutes escape time. Unfortunately, that is not enough time for the fire brigade to arrive. Needless to say that to increase escape time, to reduce the risk and to save lives, products need to be flame retardant. The challenge is to obtain flame retardant properties in the most natural way, to find the right balance between safety for the people and for the planet.

Companies can do this by replacing raw materials from a non-renewable source, by bio-based FR treatments, which are made from renewable sources and do not contain halogens or heavy metals, as described in the norm EN 16785 1:2015. Bio-based FR treatments, like Bio-flam, are made from renewable, vegetable sources and enable the FR treated products to be biodegradable. The active components are 100% halogen- and heavy metal-free. A welcome innovation for the bedding industry, as the European Commission requires mattresses to be recyclable by 2030 in order to reduce landfill.

Bio-flam P307 is the first introduction in the new Devan BIO-FR family, and is biodegradable and is developed to be used on 100% cotton or cotton/viscose mixtures, in order to create an ecological concept, safe for people and planet, whatever might happen. Bio-flam P 307 is developed for mattress ticking to pass EN 597 1&2. The Devan researchers are developing other bio-based products for other market segments and for other fire standards.

DyStar®, the leading dyestuff and solution provider, for the first time will use the PERFORMANCE DAYS in Munich (May 8th & 9th) as a platform to showcase its innovative new products and processes, partly developed in collaboration with selected partners.
Located at Hall C6, Booth P08, show visitors will have a chance to participate in several workshops that allow direct interaction with the specialists from DyStar Group on environmental and technical solutions to improve efficiency and significantly reduce waste of valuable resources.

The workshop on the Cadira® Polyester module, for example, will highlight that reductions of 50% water usage and more than 40% of energy consumption are possible with optimized processing.

As a market leading supplier of high-quality water-based inks for digital printing, DyStar will present their renowned Jettex® reactive, acid, disperse and vat ink ranges that enable digital printers to achieve digital prints with high fastness levels, outstanding depth and sustainable processing results.

Being fully committed to sustainability, DyStar will leverage on the PERFORMANCE DAYS fair to reach out to more brands and retailers with similar goals for potential collaboration in the areas of color, color inspiration, communication and realization tools.

Two of the five workshops conducted per day will also highlight examples of successful collaborations that provided innovation and efficiency to the textile industry.

Experts from LENZING™ will present LENZING™ Lyocell, a sustainable cellulosic fiber that provides innovative solutions for workwear.

Additionally, Datacolor® will present the new ColorReader Pro, a new Ultra-Portable Color Measurement Tool for the textile and apparel industry.

DyStar cordially invites you to Performance Days Functional Fabrics Fair, where the latest trends in fabric development for the functional textile industry will be showcased.

• Lenzing’s mission: Greening up the value chain
• Putting the Sustainable Development Goals into practice
• Partnering with US brands in Earth Day campaign to plant trees

For the Lenzing Group, sustainability is a core value, key business driver and stimulus for innovation. In its new Sustainability Report, which will be sent from Earth Day, April 22, readers will learn about the wide range of activities the company is engaged in pursuing its mission of greening up the value chain. The Report is entitled “Partner for Change”, a concept that also inspires the latest TENCEL™ campaign on occasion of Earth Month, launched on April 1, 2019 and continuing until April 30, 2019.

Sustainability is an increasingly important element of Lenzing’s brand promise. The current TENCEL™ Earth Month Campaign “From Trees, For Trees” is a brand collaboration supporting the replanting of trees in the California forests recently devastated by last year’s wildfires that burned over c of forest. From April 1 to April 30, 2019, TENCEL™ brand invites the public to get involved in helping them donate trees by liking and sharing Earth Month related posts on their branded Instagram channel as well as their retail partner’s Instagram channels (https://www.tencel.com/earth-day).

The brand Re.VerSo ™, representative of a zero-waste circular production system for wool and cashmere, has been selected as one of the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking project of the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo. The Exhibition aims to provide an artistic and cultural contribution on the crucial issue of sustainability, understood as "a development that meets the needs of the present, without compromising the possibility of future generations to meet their needs "(Brundtland Report, 1987).

Re.VerSo™, the advanced supply chain entered the exhibition project. Leftovers can be sourced directly by Re.VerSo™ supply chain, otherwise the Re.VerSo™ advanced technology process welcomes retailers and brands to supply their pre-consumer wool and cashmere woven and knitted off cuts, transforming them into high quality yarns and fabrics integrated for a circular economy.

March 2019: For decades, Schoeller Textil has been meticulous in observing its responsibility to humans and the environment. Developed and produced in Switzerland under the most stringent conditions, the high-tech textiles and textile technologies encompass a spirit of innovative and outstanding quality. With a focus on sustainability, the groundbreaking, ecological portfolio includes, among other things, genuine upcycled products with ECONYL®-Garn, 100 % recycled, recyclable wear2wear woven and knitted fabrics or bio technologies based on sustainable raw materials.

High-quality textiles have a long service life and can remain in use for longer. The fabric properties are further improved by smart textile technologies such as water- and dirt-repelling functions. This helps preserve the environment and cuts down on the use of resources. In its manufacturing, Schoeller Textil AG always considers the ecological compatibility of its products. Therefore, since 2001, production at the Swiss site has always complied with the stringent guidelines of the bluesign® system. By conviction, Schoeller devotes itself to sustainable climate protection and takes part in the Energy Agency of the Swiss Private Sector programme to actively reduce carbon emissions and optimise energy efficiency.

• New game-changing Kornit NeoPoly Technology with industry-first innovation for industrial polyester printing that prevents dye migration.
• New Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro system unveiled at events during April, commercially available immediately.

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT), a global market leader in digital textile printing innovation, unveiled the game-changing Kornit NeoPoly Technology, which is the industry’s first digital, industrial process for high-quality printing on polyester.

Polyester is the second largest category in the overall T-shirt market, it is key in the sport segment, and is growing in the athleisure and functional apparel segments. Currently polyester is printed predominantly by analog solutions, which creates major technological, cost and sustainability challenges.  

The new ground-breaking Kornit NeoPoly Technology addresses these challenges with a new process and ink set implemented in the renowned Kornit NeoPigmentTM process. Kornit’s new process handles polyester applications without compromising on design, run size, substrate or labor.

The breakthrough technological innovation is achieved by an innovative ink set and a physical and chemical process specifically developed for low temperature curing, and polyester enhancing functionalities developed to maintain fabric characteristics and provide superior fastness. This unique process prevents dye migration on polyester.  The inks are Oeko-Tex and Eco-Passport certified and do not contain PVCs or other toxic ingredients.

The first system equipped with the Kornit NeoPoly Technology is the new Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro, a member of Kornit’s world-class reliable, highly productive industrial platform. The single-step Poly Pro is the perfect system for the industry, enabling easy and cost effective short-runs and on-demand printing on polyester garments.

On March 7th, European Commissioner on the Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and Small and Medium-Sized Enterprises has been welcomed in Prato by the mayor Matteo Bittoni and by the Councilor for Productive Activities Daniela Toccafondi, together with the economic categories for a meeting organized by the Department of Economic Development with reference to the Fashion System.

By the end of the meeting, the only company visit planned has followed, and brought to the Manteco headquarter. Manteco is a firm leader in the production of wool and recycled fabrics since 1943.  Today led by Matteo and Marco Mantellassi, Manteco is able to value territory, sharing economy, sustainability, internationalization and the use of renewable energies – not only as an investment policy but also as a distinctive element for the identification of the company as an international reference point for the fashion textile sector.

The company visit was attended by European Commissioner Elzbieta Bienkowska, Justina Morek, member of the Commissioner's Cabinet, Beatrice Covassi, director of the Representation of the European Commission in Rome, Slawomir Tokarski, director for advanced and innovative manufacturing in the general direction of the internal market and European Commission industry, MEP Hon. Nicola Danti, dr. Alberto Biginelli, Councilor Daniela Toccafondi; The Mayor of Prato Matteo Bittoni, the Mayor of the Municipality of Montemurlo, Mauro Lorenzini.

The key topic of the meeting has been the circular economy  – that is to consider very close to Manteco – along with some others explored such as the value of Made in Italy, the importance of a responsible approach to reuse and the need for a traceability system. Noteworthy the visit to the Manteco Archive, during which the focus has been on raw materials, with reference to the tradition and experience that today are perfectly combined with the strong innovative drive and creativity. Upon request of the European Commissioner, the corporate approach with a view to circular economy, km0 production system and how it fits into the productive district were also dealt with.
 
«I visited a textile company that recycles or reuses waste materials to produce wool of the highest quality: this is an excellent example of circular economy. The circular economy is an extremely interesting subject everywhere in Europe, because we are leaders in sustainability, and we want our children and ourselves to be able to live in a country that is livable in the future, so that's why it is worthwhile to show stories in Europe of success like this, which is a good practice that we are putting into practice, starting with the big industries and the energy-intensive ones » - Elzbieta Bienkowska -

ROICA™ discloses five key and influencing brands with unique outfits already available in the market, that demonstrate how ROICA™ is able to deliver and transform basic performant stretch in eco hi-tech valuable innovations interpreted in five, completely different, contemporary lifestyles!

Inspired by the need for style-conscious, sustainable garments that are versatile for every life situation, AEANCE was created as a brand that merges ready-to-wear with technical apparel. The brand`s values are timeless minimalism, substance and understated luxury. Less, but better. AEANCE is committed to creating garments with the least possible impact on the environment and has set up a supply chain focusing on eco-sustainability and ethical responsibility. The Women`s Light Padded Jacket of the look selected for ISPO is the result of a collaboration with the acclaimed industrial designer Konstantin Grcic.

Knowing the transformative power of fitness, DAQUÏNI® was founded in 2012 to help women bridge the gap between how they feel and how they think they look when they are working out. Each DAQUÏNI® item is made in the E.U. from highest quality Oeko-Tex® certified materials. The brand’s first choice in fabrics is SOFILETA (founded in 1911) with its luxurious technical fabrics with ROICA™ V550 premium stretch awarded with Cradle-to-Cradle Innovation Institute’s GOLD LEVEL material health certificate.

The New York based brand Erin Snow creates chemically safe, circularly designed, socially fair luxury performance apparel. The Teri pant is Erin Snow's most innovative and highly anticipated pant to date. Teri is made from the finest bluesign® approved Schoeller 4-way stretch fabric containing ROICA™ V550 premium stretch sustainable fiber. The pant is insulated with PrimaLoft® Gold Luxe and repels water and dirt without PFCs, thanks to Schoeller's ecorepel® Bio finishing while giving maximum freedom of movement.

The SCOTT Racing Team, the Italian Mtb Pro Rider Team born in 1988, selected the high performance for active clothing identifying Rosti, SITIP and ROICA™ as strategic partners to ensure unique and performant biking outfit composed by tights and jacket. Made with the special BEHOT fabric by SITIP, constructed with active performance materials belonging to the ROICA Feel Good™ family, it not only insulates, but generates up to 2 degrees of heat as you workout as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. Long life stretch, superior shape retention and best breathability thanks to the Blizzard by SITIP fabric that ensures thermal comfort and easy care to the users. A valuable choice that perfectly matches the performances of an experienced team of specialists.

SITA hits the European panorama for the first time at ISPO with ROICA™ few days after the official launch in US and Saudi Arabia on January 31st. Its high-tech debut collection for Spring 2019 provides women with an all-new luxury concept of timeless foundational apparel made in New York balancing concealed performance features and style to meet womens’everyday dynamic lifestyle. The newly-created made in Italy SITATECH™ fabric includes permanent agents that neutralize odor, withstand machine wash, and exhibit superior quality. The intricately designed fabric takes on instant appeal with nanotechnology fibers and ROICA™ CF, a yarn with an active smart odor neutralizer property, then knitted in Italy by Maglificio Ripa.

• Patented technology with bluesign®, ECO PASSPORT, and Skin Friendly certification

Polyester sport and functional textiles treated with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 are protected against “permastink”. Already a holder of the Swiss Technology Award, the Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 odor-management technology can now carry the bluesign® sustainability label, the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and the ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. SANITIZED AG has been a bluesign® system partner for over 10 years.

An unwelcome odor can quickly develop in polyester sport and functional clothing, even if freshly washed. This is “permastink”. It’s a challenge to the textile industry as it generally reduces the attractiveness and market opportunities of sport and functional clothing made from polyester.

The patented, non-biocidal Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 technology provides specific solutions and sales arguments for the end products. It works in two ways: The odor-causing bacteria can’t stick to the textile surface and are washed out completely in a normal wash cycle. This is due to the anti-adhesive “coating” applied in the padding process. This effect has been proven in a test procedure developed in cooperation with EMPA (Swiss Federal Laboratories for Material Science and Technology). Secondly, the treatment has an adsorbing effect. The odors are “trapped” and repeatedly expelled during a normal wash cycle.

No binder, no nano
Another characteristic: The treatment with Sanitized® Odoractiv 10 doesn’t apply an additional binder system. As with all of our products, SANITZED AG uses no nano technology. The safety and tolerability have been confirmed by the Skin Friendly certification from the Hohenstein Institute and ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® label. These have now been joined by the bluesign® accreditation.